Bespoke Shoe Making Process: Measurements | Dominic Casey | Kirby Allison
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- Опубликовано: 20 ноя 2024
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Kirby Allison, Founder of Hanger Project, stops by LastMaker House in Eastbourne to get started on a bespoke pair of shoes. Dominic Casey, renowned last maker, and bespoke shoemaker go through the process of getting the foot measurements to make a last for a bespoke shoe.
What a fascinating man. He speaks with the deep knowledge of long experience, and without a trace of pretension.
Bespoke shoes are for the foolish and pretentious, for on second it can not be seen what advantage can be had from them unless there are no shoes on the market that would fit.
@@CarlyWaarly "it can not be seen what advantage can be had from them" allow me to correct you. You can not see what advantage can be had from them. So they are not for you. You should be a little careful with judging from what you think is true to what is true for all of us. Those with expertise in a field will notice the most minute details - like an audio expert noticing the difference of half a percent of harmonic distortion.
at first, he seems a bit all knowing, but he is just enthusiastic
@@CarlyWaarly what an idiotic take..you're not only ignorant.. you're prob bitter you can't afford a pair.
Can I point something out to all of those who are making rude comments about this video? I doubt I will ever have bespoke shoes made, but that does not change the fact that the ready to wear shoes that the vast majority of us buy are approximations of this kind of craftsmanship. There's no reason not to appreciate it, and every reason to do so.
Here, here... Well said luv!! Nothing wrong with appreciating quality and handmade or bespoke things!! I think ppl are used to paying a high price for products made on mass in China or somewhere.. but not made by hand with your measurements an build in mind..! There was a time when each village had a shoe maker.. an tailor. In same store. I had shoes made as a child an young adult! Pick one thing to have made for you. You will treasure it care for it an yourself... Never poke fun at someone you find strange.. they may think the same of you. They're just mannered an wud never point out your flaws . Outta respect for your delicate nature to rudeness... So very Quickly😊💗!
I love your comment an agree. I am older a quite new to this phone. Lol!!
💗 Dk
LoganDC100 I worked in the footwear industry in Northamptonshire, trained as a pattern cutter. You are 100% correct in what you are saying. The production lasts we developed had to accommodate a huge variety of foot shapes and are a compromise at best. There are plenty of good quality ready to wear shoes available in loads of different constructions though, some available in width fittings too so most people should be able to find something they like that fits properly. Personally, I wouldn’t bother buying bespoke unless you can afford it or you have feet that are of dimensions that meant you couldn’t buy a good quality mass produced shoe off the shelf. Have made plenty of bespoke Goodyear Welted shoes myself in the past and fitting is a bit of a dark art. My approach was start off with an existing last in a shape the client liked. Get the person to try on a pair of shoes made on the chosen last and find out where there was pressure or the shoe felt loose. Then I’d measure the persons feet weight on and adjust the lasts accordingly. Would then make a trial pair on the modified last in the correct leather and have the client back to check the modifications had worked and that fit was acceptable. If all was good we’d go ahead and make the shoes for the client. Very rare we’d make a last completely from scratch unless the client had deformities that meant an existing last couldn’t be modified. It’s a great industry that I worked in for fifty years and I can honestly say I was learning new things right up until I retired. Cheers.
This is an interesting glimpse into the parallel economy that exists for rich people. There's an entire economy of dedicated businesses like this, which exist only for the rich and could never survive in the regular competitive economy. This is the luxury economy, with specialized shops and saavy craftsmen who have built their entire livelihoods around the art of separating rich folks from their money. I find the whole phenomenon fascinating.
Although I respect the craftsmanship, refinement, time/dedication, etc. that goes into hand making such goods, your comment is on the money.
As a tradesman I know that as the highest level is the highest skill and craftsmanship. This is common buy the average Joe wont see most of those businesses for sure
This whole ultra fancy individualised attention super thorough measurements stuff is definitely for the rich. However if you look at the prices of branded trainers/sneakers and how able and willing "regular" people are to spend money on them kind of shows that the money is there to support a (slightly less attentive) bespoke shoe business. Add to this the fact that it is rare for those popular branded shoes to be manufactured in a way where they can be repaired endlessly and it actually becomes more cost effective to have shoes made. Properly made shoes can be repaired (relatively cheaply) will literally last a lifetime.
Terry Pratchett mentioned the irony of it in one of his books, that the rich can afford to live more cheaply than the common man. Because they can more easily afford the up front costs of a quality product. Sure it costs more, but they only ever have to buy it once. Regular people have to go for the "good enough" that they can afford, but have to replace their stuff endlessly and spend more money in the long run than the rich do.
Well said, and that’s the nail in the class warfare coffin that old Mbaxter22 tries to put forth.
The wearer of $1000 Yeezy sneakers is concerned about style and fad..
Kirby is concerned about materials used, fit and longevity of the product.
The former drives multi-million dollar ad campaigns with the latest influencer or sports personality wearing the sneaker because it’s cool.
The latter involves a small shop, one of a small handful of craftsman in the world that can hand make shoes and a customer dedicated to quality that’s willing to seek it out.
Yes it makes me think of the Sam Vimes boot theory and how it’s more expensive to be poor
Holy shit man! EXCELLENT job not rushing and asking all the intricate parts of his foot measurements 👍🏻 This is probably the best I’ve seen because you didn’t try to play up to the RUclips audience. A lot of times it comes off as insincere and unimportant if the host is more worried about the audience than what is actually taking place in front of him. Both men did an excellent job 👍🏻
I am speechless after I saw in this video. There were many steps that were taken in just to make a pair of bespoke shoe. This guy, Dominic Casey really shows us the true meaning of bespoke of shoe making, congratulations. Keep it up, Allison.
He looks like he's been drawn out of a book. One I'd want to read.
I believe it was "Harry Potter and the Fallen Arches"
Inkheart for me
Thanks Kirby, I was very impressed with the way he went about gathering all of the information for your shoes, as well as explaining in great detail every step and the reasons why. Now I am ready to watch him make them.
Nearly headless Nick seems to be doing really well for himself after that whole Voldemort thing.
Expound please
hahaha looks just like him.
It’s bothered me since I’ve found this video cause I couldn’t figure out who he reminded me of. Thank you my anxiety is at peace now LOL
Lol
DONT SAY HIS NAME
The attention to details is bewildering. A true master at work
I paid less attention when I’ve bought new houses than this guy does with Kirby’s feet.
Great choice of person to talk to! Very engaging, interesting and down-to-earth :)
I love the passion you have for bespoke shoes! It really shoes through in your videos and other appearing guests too!
I enjoyed that even before Dominic began measuring your feet he gathered so much information from the inside of your existing shoes. He seemed so precise and methodical. How he was able to stay squatted so long. I have flat feet and I just keep thinking how that play out if I was lucky enough to be in your position. Can't wait to see more. Another great video Kirby thanks.
Paul Castellano Yes! We have some additional videos with him we’ll be releasing soon. Very talented shoemaker!
This is really fascinating. Thank you Kirby for taking the time to create these informative videos. One of the best resources on the web.
Love the thorough ness and passion of the maker
Love the passion he has for his craft.
I am intrigued that sharing this kind of knowledge and videos can be so rewarding that it allows Mr Allison to have so many bespoke shoes and bespoke wardrobe (and of course his sales through his website). All of his items are V pricey and deeply adorable. V lovely and rewarding profession.
Dominic has awesome knowledge and detail about shoemaking, a true craftsman.
Navy Suit for War
I suspect only Dominic got red in the face.
Good thing he didn't need to apologize for his sandwich breath.
this man clearly hasnt established enough
Fight fight fight
It was your face
Having someone touch your foot and draw around it---I'm getting goose bumps
If you have bespoke inlays being made by an orthopaedic you can experience this first-hand (or rather first-foot😊) at a fraction of the cost compared to a whole shoe.
I wouldnt be surprised if he said "I also need to smell the foot in order to understand the heat levels that come from the soles. I smell each foot individually because it helps me understand if there are different heat levels eminating from the foot. This information will help me choose the appropriate type of leather to match the smell. I also need to taste the foot because [fill in the blank fake measurement bs]"
Too too funny.
I shouldnt have read this comment. Now I cant watch this video without thinking he's going to do that XD
Any scientific research condones this for quality but not quality control
Leo ROFL
Ben Shapiro learned from the master
Not sure how I got here...but I am always interested in old ways of doing things. GREAt video and thegentleman was wonderful and expalined everything in great detail.
did you type this comment with your face?
This Maker see's with his hands, an takes a physical photo in his mind with his hands an eyes... I Kno this last will be amazing.. As his understanding of the bone structure of your foot will relate to the structure of the bespoke shoes... Excited for it Kirby Sir !? Kudos the 2 of ya..!
I don't know what's older: the knowledge passed down to Dominic Casey from shoemaker to shoemaker, or the iPod in the background.
Kirby Allison has such a stellar personality. Definitely the life of the party here in this video.
This guy really likes old school, even has an iPod in the back!
Drinking game.
Every time he says 'actually', down it! 🍻
Cheers folks!
Great attention to detail, Dominic seems very knowledgeable indeed, and I like his Boots they have a unique look.
Dominic casey is so indepth and absolutely amazing
Pronation full of information what a bar 😂 i love this video. Asmr worthy and generally interesting.
3:57 look at that classic ipod! great memories!
This was such an educational and entertaining video. Your subject was engaging and kept my attention the entire time.
Yeah. This was a fun video. some additional great stuff forthcoming.
Kirby has some serious asmr tingles going on in this.
Learned so much from this video, great content. Excited to see the finished product.
I love the look of his workshop in the background all nice carved woods and vintage looking... then there's an ipod and speaker dock right in the middle.
It's 1AM and I'm watching a video on a guy making shoes
This is the time of day I watch this kind of stuff too lol
Me too!
You don’t have to have a foot fetish to be watching these videos, but it helps
It helps to sleep tho
Literally four years later I am doing the same thing lmao at 1 am
Yes, Mr. Allison, please never stop!
I like the part where Dominic begins to prepare to consider how to understand the structure of the foot as he begins thinking about when he's going to actually take the measurements, but not before he has thoroughly considered and begun to understand how Kirby's foot works.
Yes - for sure - I enjoyed how Dominic sought to understand the foot before beginning to measure it. I'm really excited about his shoes! Should be able to pick them up when I return to London in March 2019.
Remember Spaceballs when the Darth Vader character was like "stop preparing! You're always preparing!" Still love this guy Dominic, though. What a class act...
@@kirbyallison did he say that length is not determined by measuring the foot, but by cap toe shape?
I think kirby has some asmr tingles going on in this video
this has ASMR written all over it!
I'm on it
I was just coming to the comments to say, that I think Kirby had some serious tingles going on! Before I knew what asmr when I was a kid, I acted the same way Kirby is when teachers were talking over my shoulder explaining something in a low tone.
millhouse313 OMG! My comment was going to be on that I noticed Nike getting a bit too relaxed and not asking too many questions. Hes about to drop any minute now. 😆 He’s definitely feeling lots of tingles. 😂
꧁ Orlando Cruz ꧂ nike?
Bespoke shoes, one of the perks of being seriously wealthy.
Not really. A simple calculation of things what people spend money on which are not needed gives $10,000 a year for people who are not wealthy. Cigarettes, alcohol, junk food. These can easily cost $10,000 a year. Anyone can have have bespoke shoes. The only advantage that the wealthy have is they do not need to save for it, where a poor person would need to save.
Jacob Kauffman fuck off
@@rankoss3437 Thank you kind for your reply.
@@yacovlevi A pack of cigarettes a day is estimated to cost less than $2500 per year. Only a serious alcoholic (or someone buying very expensive alcohol) could get near $10k on drinks per year. And many middle-class and lower eat junk food because it's actually LESS expensive than eating healthy. America, one of the richest per capita countries in the world, has a median income of about $31,000. Obviously, no responsible/sane parent making at or below median income ever would or should buy a $10k pair of shoes.
But I would challenge you to find anywhere NEAR $10k of disposable income from even your average single American struggling to afford taxes, rent, car payments, insurance, food, etc. And then I would challenge you to find any possible reason that money should be invested in a pair of bespoke shoes rather than an index fund.
@@bryancouillard2016 Hello sir. Good afternoon. Thank you so very much for your kind and interesting reply to my post.
I do though strongly disagree with your comments. Firstly, I live in Manhattan. Cigarettes start at $15 before tax a packet. 1-2 packets a day in average. Let's say $15.50 after tax. $15.50 x 365 days = $6,022.50 or $12, 045 for 2 packets.
But as a fair person I am, I will take your $2,500. Do you agree a person can save the $2,500 for 4 years for a bespoke pair of shoes which cost $10,000? If a person can spend $2,500 a year on cigarettes which are damaging their health then why do you think they cannot quit and save that money for a pair of bespoke shoes?
Quintessential English craftsman!
I bought a pair of boots in Clarks and they fitted beautifully
Fascinating video!! I am glad that I have recently discovered this channel.
I absolutely dread shopping for shoes . I've spent so many years in military boots , my feet have developed strangely . might be worth investing in a well made shoe with this gentleman . like having a podiatrist go over your foot plus make your shoes !!!
Should be significant difference taking a weight-bearing and off weighty-bearing tracing. Foot elongates on WB. There's paper that reacts with baking soda + water and highlights those areas on the bottom of the foot which carries more weight than other areas.
So I’m guessing it might be slightly insulting to call Mr Casey a cobbler ! 😀 Incredible attention to detail, the ultimate luxury.
Excellent Video ... I've learned so much from it. I think this information will help me in all my shoe choices! Keep up the Great work Kirby, this is exactly the type of information I look for!
Orthotics manufacturers used to employ last makers but many now have 3d scanners for feet. It'd be interesting to see how that compares with the traditional methods.
Dominic made a pair of captoe oxfords for me. Excellent pair of shoes!
That's great! Can't wait to receive my pair. Post a picture on Instagram and tag us!
I had no idea Mark Twain had a British accent. :-)
He's a character! Exactly you'd expect from a left handed shoemaker! ;)
The accent of my Twain has been greatly exaggerated
There is no such things as A Brittish Accent.
@@yacovlevi There is if you're in the US.
Great idea splitting a relaxing ASMR video with noisy adverts that wake you up when you’re nodding off to sleep. Way to go RUclips…
@7:33 - "There is nothing too dramatic going on that is going to scare anybody."
That is very funny.
haha. Yes. Luckily my feet are easy to work with.
In the past several months, I have purchase 22 pairs of men's dress shoes from Nordstrom and Ebay: All Goodyear welted! So, I will be purchasing all of my polish from your online store as well as many other items. Thank you for all that you do and for ushering in the manaissance through dressing well.
On an unrelated note, I was showing all the guys at work the Berluti knot. They were completely mystified and excited to adopted. They are all being sent your way.
Happy 4th to you and your's!
Is there a second video showing the actual carving and the shoes? Curious to see the final products
ryan robicheaux We have two more videos with Dominic in production. One of him beginning to carve the last (incredible) and an interview with the reveal of the completed last.
This guy is an Einstein when it comes to shoe measurements! He said “triangulate”
Actually, the actual actuality of the actual actuality is actually actual.
Actually that is actually very funny!
Seems like a cool guy. He has an American Civil War Union officer vibe...
Learned so much from this vidio, great content
Arabs learn something ?
Ya know there are amazing resins that you can drop a foot in, it hardens in like 10 min and voila, you pour a perfect plaster mold in no time. This seems awfully old school. I get the experience though!
Although a mould provides blueprint of ones get but it would target only the one instant the feet were positioned. This is more of a real-time analysis and how bones will adjust and react on didn't positions really.
I just came back to this video after a while. I do wonder how a last making process be affected by a minimalist shoe wearer as myself 🤔. I might have to get a pair made for myself and see what turns out of it.
"we are going to measure your feet now..." picks up something that looks like a hammer.
Love your Dominic Casey videos!
Wonderful video and experience Kirby. Are all of your shoes bespoke?
Love Dominic‘s boots
That's a really old iPod.
I still use mine too
Probably moore Gb then the new ones.
Oh my - informative and interesting. "I have your shoes now - I must remove those fancy socks as well, sir. I assure you, it is necessary..."
Please, let me change your socks.
Bespoke shoe making is where the shoemaker creates your shoe by shaping a new block of wood to your measurement not using a already made shoe block and adding cork and whatnot to areas of the already made shoe tree
Bro it gave me goosebumps and made me sleep 😂😂😂😂damm i missed the rest of the video 😂😂😂
That guy should put some pad things under his knees to save them
lmaooooo
Their knee pads would cost £1000s. Each.
Asmr gold. I felt like i was getting a haircut
Establishing some shoes here
I love to have a pair of bespoke shoes one day :)
I use Bicks #4 doesn’t darken but u need to apply more often. I also like Venetian shoe cream and sapphir.
Boy, this was a great asmr video!
“Pencil at 45 degrees, classically”
Super interesting video Kirby, interesting that I have very similar sized feet to you, along with slim ankle and also the prominent cuneiform, which in oxfords causes me discomfort. Have never considered bespoke, because in general G&G TG73 (along with Alfred sergeants 724) fit me fairly superbly out of the box, but I find many shoes simply don't have a narrow enough ankle, or a comfortable instep. I'd be interested to know how you've got on with off the shelf G&G lasts compared to your bespoke shoes.
Shrink1061 You might consider Saint Crispin’s. They’re able to really do some significant last modifications within their Made to order stuff they can accommodate these types of problems.
The Hanger Project yes, I’ve given them a look a few times along with speaking to Vass as well. I do enjoy the G&G shoes I own though and they’re the closest I’ve had to a bespoke fit on an off the shelf shoe, with only a little too much leather on the vamp to complain of.
Super interesting video!
Never seen Kirby so quiet. I think because he knows alot about Suits but very little about shoes.
He judges international shoe making competitions.
Dominics' poor knees. But all joking aside wonderful video!
Jellyfish 703 thousands of pounds for every pair of shoes he is crafting...so worth the kneeling
Can you do a video on the different types of leathers in a shoes? Perhaps into their manufacturing, their polishing capabilities, etc? Pebble grain; smooth, full grain, why some shoes pores fill different than others, etcetera. For example, my Florsheim or Bostonian shoes are smooth leather and all I can do in terms of pores in darken the leather as it scuffs and polish it highly, while my Allen Edmonds are quite porous and the cream polish fills them up and it is much more visible. Thank you!
Your suit is really nice man really nice choice 😎
Just came across your channel for some reason. Glad though. Very interesting video on the process of shoe making. Also notice you're left-handed.
Amazing 😻😻
22:20 Couldn't have described it better myself.
I agreed that customers should be standing on the floor when taking foot measurement.
Nice school socks
Foot massage included I see
You want your shoemaker to intimately know your feet! I'd be afraid to have a pair of shoes made by someone that never touched them....
@@kirbyallison good point
Me 32year old knees were hurting just watching him bend down
Ohhh god, the foot stroking, the fooooot stroking.
I know absolutely nothing about how to make a shoe so this question will be peppered with ignorance. Isn't this just an extremely difficult way of making a cast of someones foot? What is achieved by this method that couldn't just as easily be achieved by making a mold or cast of a foot? Just curious to know.
Top add, the shoes do have to be big enough that you can actually put your foot into it. So leather wrapped around a casting would be too tight and lead to foot problems, if you can even get the foot in.
Additionally, generally a cobbler will generally provide you with the last so you can rest your shoe with the last in and the cedar is very good for that because it freshens the smell and absorbs moisture.
No, that's simply not true. Even if you could fit your foot into a skin tight leather shoe, which would be difficult, if you have no room in the toe box, then your shoe is going to severely injure you as you walk and rub painful corns into your toes and possibly cause compression fractures in your toes, as they would have no room to slide back and forward as you walk.
Dress shoes should fit relatively close, but defiantly need to have give around your feet, and specifically the fore end of your foot.
Well, for one thing, your for physically stretches under compression when you put your weight on it. But imagine you've just put your foot down, and you're shifting your weight onto it while bringing your heel up for the next step. All your body weight is on the front of your foot pushing it forward, and it will spring back as you pick your foot up.
Additionally, over the day, your feet swell as you walk on them through the day and become slightly larger.
So you definitely need more room in the toe box. But while you want, for instance, the quarters to be snug, you don't want them to be overly tight either, not skin tight certainly.
To amplify and summarize ketherga's points. Your foot changes shape as you walk, and it also changes shape during the day. A shoe, like a glove or a jacket, has got to balance between fitting close enough not to flop around, but loose enough to change shape as your foot changes shape. It's dynamic, and being good at fitting shoes is about 70% art, 30% science.
ketherga Do you think it would be possible to create a last by 3D scanning your foot, smoothing the model and allowing for tolerance, and then fabricating it in some way, perhaps CNC routing? Is this at all done for larger companies creating bespoke shoes?
Why not just cast the foot with gypsum to have exact copy of the foot by side all the time?
Ruins the socs
This kind of shoe making is a fairly antique craft. It seems more about demonstrating the shoemaker's traditional skills and crafts rather than anything scientific.
Because you can't tack the upper part of the shoe down with nails in gypsum.. It would just crumble away
The weight of his feet is needed to measure his foot more accurate because when you apply force under of his feet, his feet begin to expand, that's why weight is important to get the exact measurements of his foot.
Great video Kirby and great information. Dominic seems very engaging and interesting. i would love to have a course of bespoke shoe making in UK. do you recommend any? lastmaker seems has only last making course.
He was incredible. I'm not sure who has any courses on bespoke shoe making. I know Stefano Bremer has one in Florence, but it's quite expensive. €15,000 for six months.
that guy's suit is fresh as hell. anybody know what material it might be? looks nicer than wool
Will there be a follow up video? Really interested to see the rest of the process!!
I am traveling to London in early September for the first fitting! Can't wait. I'm so excited.
The Hanger Project that’s awesome!! Can’t wait to see what they look like at that stage :D
Put *ASMR* in the Title bloody hell mate!!!
BeLikeWater 88 yes but he needs to whisper ☺️🙏🏼
Chevrolet, zebra and honesty.
Just wondering why shoemakers don't make a quick set plaster cast? Podiatrists make orthotics using plaster to get an exact copy of your feet. Why not shoemakers?
My primitive understanding is that the last makers need measurements with some weight on your feet..which makes molding a little difficult
Kirby’s gonna burn those shoes after this guy gets done politely eviscerating them
what is a lastmaker? i guess i am going to look it up now
Anyone who keeps the click wheel iPod in functioning condition definitely deserves the title of Classic
The playlist is out of order😢