Damn you got timed out. Don't take it too hard. I appreciate the fact that you uploaded all your success stories and your not so successful story! That's called... keeping it real!
The 60ft times you are putting down ... are excellent ... and the 1/4 times are excellent as well! I am putting together a 99 Dakota with a stroker 5.9ltr 408 CI...lots of goodies inside...looking at you run brings back a ton on memories... Wishing the best of the day ... and stay safe! From a little town in Ontario Canada... btw I love the U.S. tracks... US-131 and Mylan...was there this summer ...had to get my NHRA license...just one more notch in the bucket list!
Hey that was me that you were racing at 2:12 in the Orange Charger!! yup a mess up at the starting line and your day is over!! We have all been there!! Like you said try to limit distractions get in a routine and do it the same every time!! Bracket racing is most of the time won at the starting line!!
Amen brother... was at Mylan a few weeks ago ...spot on my dial in...the wonderful lady in her Hellkitty... was off by a few...but she beat me at the tree! Stay Focused!
I am the same way. I try to find logic even when you fail yourself. But owning up to it and reasoning it out is rare these days. Most folks want to blame it on something other than themselves. Thus never learning and getting wiser. Good luck in your future racing. I will be pulling for you. Car sounded awsome😁
Hey man, that's why it's called racing....not always winning. If you're having fun, you're winning! If not, figure out if racing is really in your heart. I personally took over 35 years off from the sport, now back into it at 68 yrs old (btw,running a '70 Challenger door car low 10's) Even though my reaction times are sometimes so pitiful I think I was napping after staging, being at the track again is so damn cool....while other old guys are reminiscing about what they used to do, my ass is doing it!! Keep your head up and enjoy that badass banana!!
My stupid story: I once raced my 11 second car against a 23 second car. Couldn't sit there on the converter while waiting for him, so I started counting as soon as we were both staged. Unfortunately, I did my arithmetic wrong and I was still counting when my lights started counting down. Had a terrible light and lost. Bracket racing is a very humbling sport. There's a couple of ways to win, and a whole bunch of ways to lose! I'm becoming a master at finding the latter! lol
That’s a great story. I also did that before too. Not as an extreme difference in times though 14 seconds vs 20 second. I watched him go down the track as my lights counted down. Thanks for sharing!
Back in the 80s I bought a low mile 77 Dodge royal Monaco for the 440 but ended up cleaning the car up and using it for a loaner car for my shop for a couple years. A few times a drove it to the local track, back then it was cheaper to race than spectate so I’d run it. Stock it ran 17.50s at the end of the two years it ran 15.50s with minimal mods and tuning. But one finals I raced a newer Porsche, turbo Carrera, everyone was telling me that he comes on hard in the lights so it was hard to tell if you needed to lift. He wasn’t in sight at the finish so I figured he broke but I talked to him later and he said that he was messing with the floor mat and didn’t see the lights come down. I told him you know you got beat by a $100.00 car rite?
That's too bad. I hope to get to some of the MD tracks this year, though my bracket days are likely past. In my ~20 years of racing street cars, I never broke my car and be unable to drive home. Except one time, when I cracked the thermostat housing during a cooldown. I had to grab a ride home and return with my brother in my mom's car with a spare.
Shake it off brother. Shit happens. I started my burnout one time in reverse. I was driving around the water box so my front tires didnt pick up the water. I then backed it into the box, and waiting till the spotter gave me the signal to heat them up. He did and when i dumped the clutch, i was still in reverse. I realized it quickly, but anyone who was paying attention I'm sure saw my car move backwards a bit... oops ...
Your car ran well despite the humidity and warmer temperatures, so that’s good. It’s unfortunate and unusual that you messed up at the light because you’ve never done anything like that before. I’m sure you’ll do well next time like you usually do. 😎 And when temperatures are cooler, you can truly test the carb spacer addition.
These kinds of things will prepare and prevent you from it happening again. Practice and consistency will change your focus along the way and it will all fall in place without even thinking. Good luck on the next time out and don't beat yourself up to bad on all this. You will see as time goes on. 👍✌️
yep, general rule of thumb is once both cars are pre-staged, the first car to trip the stage light gives the 2nd car 5 seconds to do likewise. Sorry it happened! Nice car by the way!!
ugh I missed again, Schedules changed i used to go every year. Cecil is about .1 quicker usually then here, 75/80 too much dirt around for traction. I would try a cheapo Plastic spacer if it is too hot, but would not invest over 30-40 bucks at most. i hope i have a friend at start line to assist me. practice makes perfect.
Meh, don’t worry about it too much. Couple years ago I decided to go red in a time run just to get a feel for where ‘red’ is on the tree, then back off to hopefully better green lights than I had been cutting. Solid plan I thought…. Boy I’ll never do that again!
Dont take things too hard. If you bracket race very much, you will find new ways to lose on a regular basis. But you are correct; minimize distractions, and I want to add, get in a routine and do the same thing every time. I make sure the camera is recording when I am in the waterbox. After that I try to ignore it. I check temp and oil pressure before I turn the top bulb on. Then once the top bulb is on all I need to do is turn off the fan, (if footbraking also get the rpm where I want it), and bump in.
@@Duster_Garage Glad to help. I've been doing this a long time. Well, not the youtube stuff, that's fairly new. But I've been bracket racing for 30+ years, so I've had a long time and a few thousand passes to figure out what works for me, and I'm more than happy to pass on that info to others.
@@Duster_Garage You are welcome. I’m on the downhill side of this hobby, and figure if I can help anyone out with what little useful knowledge I have acquired thru all these years, I should.
I wish I could have made it this year. Maybe next. You may know this but your camera guy/girl can walk down the side of the track behind the white line. They won’t say anything.
Love your videos,can I ask your rear tire and wheel size? Have you moved the leaf springs in? Are you running 14 inch on the front? Thank you, keep the filming coming
Thank you. I have a 15x8 rear wheel with 4.5” backspace. The tire is a 275/60r15. I didn’t have to change leaf spring location. The fronts are a 15x4 wheel, 26x7.5x15 tire. I used to run a 14” rallye wheel.
Don't be so hard on yourself. I do understand thought, I'm the same way. Pretty sure you did pick up somewhere. 1. Did you add air to the tires from your last track visit? 2. Did you use the air filter the last time at the track and this time? 3. Was the only change the carb spacer? At the end of your last video you asked what tires you thought you should get. I would get either the ET Street Radial Pro or the ET Street Radial R. Here's my reasoning- According to MT the Radial Pro, R, and SS all have the same construction and compound. The only difference is the amount of rain grooves. Unless something has changed the Street SS even though they have the most grooves are junk in very mild rain so why bother. Plus if you're considering a converter with a higher stall speed you might need the extra grip.
I did bump up the psi in the rear tires. Went from 16 to 20. I did run a K&N air filter both times at the track. This time it was an inch shorter for hood clearance because of the carb spacer. It was about 20 degrees warmer and a little humid though. I may try the et street r next time I buy tires. I don’t drive it in the rain so the tread doesn’t matter.
Higher temp & humidity yuk. I'd have probably stuck around and tried to get in a run without the air filter. The mph should be a clue. It "could be" both the added air PSI and the spacer helped but the shorter filter acted as a bit of a choke.. Or the lid is now too close to the vents etc causing a metering issue. How tall is the shorter filter?
@@Duster_Garage E gads. Yea for sure next time make a run without the filter. After fitting the pan make a couple baseline runs leaving everything the same as it was in this video then remove the filter.
@@Duster_Garage Restoring my '69 Bee currently...it's making me wonder if my converter choice will be correct.. I'm not building the car to drag race it, Although it may get ran at the track a few times... 440 E street heads, hydraulic flat tappet cam around 480s lift, 4.10 gears, super stock springs with a snubber, Hedman headers... I've owned a lot of these cars since the mid late seventies so i'm nothing new at it... Just want a good quick driver. Three thousand stall speed......
@@Duster_Garage Don't know if I'd go that way. Seems they have more complaints than they used too. I had an ATI TreeMaster MRT that was good but that was back in 2005'ish, long since gone. If you do use them try to deal with Charlie Plott. I don't know if he's still there. I heard a few years back a couple key people left. I wouldn't go with Hughes either. I've had four personal friends who regularly bracket raced for points that used Hughes. These were specked for their cars. One was ok, three of them were off by close to 1,000 rpm on the low side. One was sent back and restalled with next to no improvement, still low. One got sent back and they told him they couldn't make it do what it had been specked to do so he had to purchase a totally different converter. He paid the difference, got a new converter, but it could have been better and he didn't want to turn around and send it back again. The other guy just lived with it because it was a fresh combo and was already running 11.0's and 10.99 would require more safety equipment he didn't want to add. The other didn't want to send it back and possibly miss a points race so he lived with it. When you miss the mark that often it doesn't sit well. People seem to like Lenny at Ultimate and FTI Performance. There's an endless list of companies but you need one that's going to come somewhat close at building the correct converter for your specific application on the first shot, be reasonable with adjustments, and have a good attitude.
Actually if you watch the in car view of the last run I never even turned the stage light on. If I would have deep staged the pre stage light would have went out.
Damn you got timed out. Don't take it too hard. I appreciate the fact that you uploaded all your success stories and your not so successful story! That's called... keeping it real!
Thanks brother. It was a bruise to my ego but I’ll live to race another day.
I appreciate your honesty in actually posting the video. We are all human
@@johndehaven8694 You’re right, you gotta take the good and the bad.
The 60ft times you are putting down ... are excellent ... and the 1/4 times are excellent as well! I am putting together a 99 Dakota with a stroker 5.9ltr 408 CI...lots of goodies inside...looking at you run brings back a ton on memories... Wishing the best of the day ... and stay safe! From a little town in Ontario Canada... btw I love the U.S. tracks... US-131 and Mylan...was there this summer ...had to get my NHRA license...just one more notch in the bucket list!
@@apetri7221 Sounds like you’re going to have a really fun little truck on your hands. Good luck with the build and take care.
Hey that was me that you were racing at 2:12 in the Orange Charger!! yup a mess up at the starting line and your day is over!! We have all been there!! Like you said try to limit distractions get in a routine and do it the same every time!! Bracket racing is most of the time won at the starting line!!
That’s cool! Yes, I have seen your car down there more than once. That thing hauls ass!
Amen brother... was at Mylan a few weeks ago ...spot on my dial in...the wonderful lady in her Hellkitty... was off by a few...but she beat me at the tree! Stay Focused!
That's one quick and beautiful 340 Duster. 👌
Thanks buddy
I am the same way. I try to find logic even when you fail yourself. But owning up to it and reasoning it out is rare these days. Most folks want to blame it on something other than themselves. Thus never learning and getting wiser. Good luck in your future racing. I will be pulling for you. Car sounded awsome😁
Thank you for the words of wisdom. I’m definitely going to keep at it
Hey man, that's why it's called racing....not always winning. If you're having fun, you're winning! If not, figure out if racing is really in your heart. I personally took over 35 years off from the sport, now back into it at 68 yrs old (btw,running a '70 Challenger door car low 10's) Even though my reaction times are sometimes so pitiful I think I was napping after staging, being at the track again is so damn cool....while other old guys are reminiscing about what they used to do, my ass is doing it!! Keep your head up and enjoy that badass banana!!
That’s frickin’ awesome! Thanks man, that put a smile on my face.
Hey dude at least you are out there getting it on.
And off the couch
No doubt
My stupid story: I once raced my 11 second car against a 23 second car. Couldn't sit there on the converter while waiting for him, so I started counting as soon as we were both staged. Unfortunately, I did my arithmetic wrong and I was still counting when my lights started counting down. Had a terrible light and lost. Bracket racing is a very humbling sport. There's a couple of ways to win, and a whole bunch of ways to lose! I'm becoming a master at finding the latter! lol
That’s a great story. I also did that before too. Not as an extreme difference in times though 14 seconds vs 20 second. I watched him go down the track as my lights counted down. Thanks for sharing!
Back in the 80s I bought a low mile 77 Dodge royal Monaco for the 440 but ended up cleaning the car up and using it for a loaner car for my shop for a couple years. A few times a drove it to the local track, back then it was cheaper to race than spectate so I’d run it. Stock it ran 17.50s at the end of the two years it ran 15.50s with minimal mods and tuning.
But one finals I raced a newer Porsche, turbo Carrera, everyone was telling me that he comes on hard in the lights so it was hard to tell if you needed to lift. He wasn’t in sight at the finish so I figured he broke but I talked to him later and he said that he was messing with the floor mat and didn’t see the lights come down. I told him you know you got beat by a $100.00 car rite?
That does sting a bit, I know.
That's too bad. I hope to get to some of the MD tracks this year, though my bracket days are likely past.
In my ~20 years of racing street cars, I never broke my car and be unable to drive home. Except one time, when I cracked the thermostat housing during a cooldown. I had to grab a ride home and return with my brother in my mom's car with a spare.
First of all I love the Seinfeld reference(Kenny Bania)! Breaking a thermostat housing minor. Cheers, have a great weekend!
I’ve been there too brother, definitely gotta simplify the process!!!
Yeah, it hurt but at least I won’t do that again.
@@Duster_Garage the last couple of times I’ve raced something has happened to completely throw my concentration off and I lost the round.
Shake it off brother. Shit happens. I started my burnout one time in reverse. I was driving around the water box so my front tires didnt pick up the water. I then backed it into the box, and waiting till the spotter gave me the signal to heat them up. He did and when i dumped the clutch, i was still in reverse. I realized it quickly, but anyone who was paying attention I'm sure saw my car move backwards a bit... oops ...
Lol, I can definitely picture myself do that.
Your car ran well despite the humidity and warmer temperatures, so that’s good.
It’s unfortunate and unusual that you messed up at the light because you’ve never done anything like that before. I’m sure you’ll do well next time like you usually do. 😎 And when temperatures are cooler, you can truly test the carb spacer addition.
Your an eternal optimist. 👍
These kinds of things will prepare and prevent you from it happening again. Practice and consistency will change your focus along the way and it will all fall in place without even thinking. Good luck on the next time out and don't beat yourself up to bad on all this. You will see as time goes on. 👍✌️
@@sunriseexpress4961 Thanks man. Never give up.
We all have bad days. Don’t beat yourself up about it
@@Festerman50 thanks brother
yep, general rule of thumb is once both cars are pre-staged, the first car to trip the stage light gives the 2nd car 5 seconds to do likewise. Sorry it happened! Nice car by the way!!
Thanks Tim! I’ve watched all your videos. I can’t wait to see Drag truck out on the track again!
ugh I missed again, Schedules changed i used to go every year. Cecil is about .1 quicker usually then here, 75/80 too much dirt around for traction. I would try a cheapo Plastic spacer if it is too hot, but would not invest over 30-40 bucks at most. i hope i have a friend at start line to assist me. practice makes perfect.
Shoot, that would have been cool if you could have been there. Does Cecil have a Mopar day?
My home track!
Sweet! Me too
Meh, don’t worry about it too much. Couple years ago I decided to go red in a time run just to get a feel for where ‘red’ is on the tree, then back off to hopefully better green lights than I had been cutting. Solid plan I thought…. Boy I’ll never do that again!
Sounds logical, I’m assuming it didn’t work?
@@Duster_Garage Haha No, didn’t work for me anyway. It was like I couldn’t shake it. I bet I was at about 30% redlight losses for a month or so lol.
Dont take things too hard. If you bracket race very much, you will find new ways to lose on a regular basis. But you are correct; minimize distractions, and I want to add, get in a routine and do the same thing every time. I make sure the camera is recording when I am in the waterbox. After that I try to ignore it. I check temp and oil pressure before I turn the top bulb on. Then once the top bulb is on all I need to do is turn off the fan, (if footbraking also get the rpm where I want it), and bump in.
That sounds like a perfect routine, one I am going to have to adopt.
@@Duster_Garage Glad to help. I've been doing this a long time. Well, not the youtube stuff, that's fairly new. But I've been bracket racing for 30+ years, so I've had a long time and a few thousand passes to figure out what works for me, and I'm more than happy to pass on that info to others.
@@hetzlerracing5490 I appreciate it, a lot of people don’t like giving any secrets away.
@@Duster_Garage You are welcome. I’m on the downhill side of this hobby, and figure if I can help anyone out with what little useful knowledge I have acquired thru all these years, I should.
I wish I could have made it this year. Maybe next. You may know this but your camera guy/girl can walk down the side of the track behind the white line. They won’t say anything.
That’s cool. I didn’t know they could get that close to the track.
Love your videos,can I ask your rear tire and wheel size? Have you moved the leaf springs in? Are you running 14 inch on the front? Thank you, keep the filming coming
Thank you. I have a 15x8 rear wheel with 4.5” backspace. The tire is a 275/60r15. I didn’t have to change leaf spring location. The fronts are a 15x4 wheel, 26x7.5x15 tire. I used to run a 14” rallye wheel.
@Duster_Garage thank you, I think those look pretty big in person rather then one video, I'm going to do the same sizes, thanks johnny
@@flexmarchettiNo problem. It’s Jeremy actually.
Hang in there hotrod, better runs next time, be safe, update- rod bearings wont ship till August, 418 will just have to wait a few more months
Bummer! Waiting on back ordered parts sucks. You must be chomping at the bit.
@@Duster_Garage it’s murder lol, 2 and a half year build because of set backs
@@wrongmower holy crap! I would be going crazy.
You need a cool can packed with ice that will substantially make ets mopars and 340 love ice fuel
I have thought about a cool can, for now I have insulation around the fuel line in the engine bay.
Don't be so hard on yourself. I do understand thought, I'm the same way.
Pretty sure you did pick up somewhere.
1. Did you add air to the tires from your last track visit?
2. Did you use the air filter the last time at the track and this time?
3. Was the only change the carb spacer?
At the end of your last video you asked what tires you thought you should get.
I would get either the ET Street Radial Pro or the ET Street Radial R. Here's my reasoning- According to MT the Radial Pro, R, and SS all have the same construction and compound. The only difference is the amount of rain grooves. Unless something has changed the Street SS even though they have the most grooves are junk in very mild rain so why bother. Plus if you're considering a converter with a higher stall speed you might need the extra grip.
I did bump up the psi in the rear tires. Went from 16 to 20.
I did run a K&N air filter both times at the track. This time it was an inch shorter for hood clearance because of the carb spacer.
It was about 20 degrees warmer and a little humid though.
I may try the et street r next time I buy tires. I don’t drive it in the rain so the tread doesn’t matter.
Higher temp & humidity yuk.
I'd have probably stuck around and tried to get in a run without the air filter. The mph should be a clue.
It "could be" both the added air PSI and the spacer helped but the shorter filter acted as a bit of a choke..
Or the lid is now too close to the vents etc causing a metering issue.
How tall is the shorter filter?
@@peskypeet 2”
@@Duster_Garage E gads. Yea for sure next time make a run without the filter.
After fitting the pan make a couple baseline runs leaving everything the same as it was in this video then remove the filter.
@@peskypeet will do
Been there bud
It sucks
Nice car sounds and runs great...what converter are you using ?
It’s a TCI 10”, it flashes to about 4000rpm
@@Duster_Garage Restoring my '69 Bee currently...it's making me wonder if my converter choice will be correct.. I'm not building the car to drag race it, Although it may get ran at the track a few times... 440 E street heads, hydraulic flat tappet cam around 480s lift, 4.10 gears, super stock springs with a snubber, Hedman headers... I've owned a lot of these cars since the mid late seventies so i'm nothing new at it... Just want a good quick driver. Three thousand stall speed......
@@70stunes71 3000 is a good hot street stall speed. With that big 440, there should be plenty of low end torque. No need for a real high stall.
@@Duster_Garage Thanks for the input. Thanks for the videos and looking forward to the future projects.
I had mine in reverse to much distraction is right
Eww, reverse. That’s one you’ll remember. 😬
Need more converter bud . nice Duster
Thanks man. I’ve been kicking around the idea of an 8” maybe 4.5k-5k stall
Now you're talking. Who do you have in mind? FTI, Ultimate, Neal Chance?
I'm sure you know, custom converters aren't cheap.
@@peskypeet I was thinking ATI. I’ve heard good things about their converters, but I’ve also heard people complain about them.
@@Duster_Garage Don't know if I'd go that way. Seems they have more complaints than they used too. I had an ATI TreeMaster MRT that was good but that was back in 2005'ish, long since gone. If you do use them try to deal with Charlie Plott. I don't know if he's still there. I heard a few years back a couple key people left.
I wouldn't go with Hughes either. I've had four personal friends who regularly bracket raced for points that used Hughes. These were specked for their cars. One was ok, three of them were off by close to 1,000 rpm on the low side.
One was sent back and restalled with next to no improvement, still low.
One got sent back and they told him they couldn't make it do what it had been specked to do so he had to purchase a totally different converter. He paid the difference, got a new converter, but it could have been better and he didn't want to turn around and send it back again.
The other guy just lived with it because it was a fresh combo and was already running 11.0's and 10.99 would require more safety equipment he didn't want to add.
The other didn't want to send it back and possibly miss a points race so he lived with it.
When you miss the mark that often it doesn't sit well.
People seem to like Lenny at Ultimate and FTI Performance. There's an endless list of companies but you need one that's going to come somewhat close at building the correct converter for your specific application on the first shot, be reasonable with adjustments, and have a good attitude.
@@peskypeet thank you very much for all your good input. It’s an important decision when you’re shelling out over a $1000.
Better luck next time.
Thanks buddy
Sh*t happens..... live and learn
You got that right
Please stop making excuses you deep staged and drew a red eye.
We have all done it more than once.
Actually if you watch the in car view of the last run I never even turned the stage light on. If I would have deep staged the pre stage light would have went out.