Thank god you exist in this world! I haven't been able to wrap my head around all these numbers since I started designing my own hexacopter. I have only been an RTF owner and pilot. I think I'm going to have to see all your videos now!
This helped me so much… You are a naturally gifted teacher. I think neodymium magnets in motors, brushless motor technology, Li-po battery technology, all these things that have caused the RC hobby to advance by leaps and bounds in recent years are going to work their way into every day technology in other areas and become game changers beyond the scope of what is now understood. I would see these motors and batteries advertised in hobby magazines and while they appear to be very fast and powerful, I didn’t understand any of the information that was talked about in the ad… This video cleared so much of that up for me, but I’m still just getting started. Now headed towards your video about batteries… Definite new subscriber! Thanks again so much.
Thanks for this! I sort of had an idea and grasp of the designations, but as you and everyone else has probably been aware of, every manufacturer has their own concept of numbering schemes. Albeit kinda/sorta following a common system, I found from one to the other slight differences that confused me. Now I can look at them with better clarity!
Thanks for the very informative video. I was wondering what all of these numbers meant and now I know thanks to you. I am building a quad copter and I do not need to buy motors that I will never need. I need a scout quad that I can use to patrol our property. One of our neighbors likes to dump hazardous waste instead of deposing of it legally. If I can catch him on video I can cook his goose. Thanks again.
@Philip Tomkins LOL! That's funny, I'm the same way. I'm 20 years older than you but I too, started when I was about 13 or 14. I'll stick with the hobby for a couple years, then shelf it for 10 years or so, then repeat the process. I'm just getting back into it again. Almost all my planes have 70"+ wingspans and all of them are built from kits. Since this is the longest I've been away from the hobby (13 years) and my eyesight has changed (i'm too busy to go get some glasses. Well, that's the excuse I use ) I decided to get an RTF foamy for a refresher course rather than use one that I already have. It's an Easy Trainer by FMS and it's really easy to fly. I wanted to get an RTF because all my "old fashioned" ni-cad transmitter and receiver battery packs are no good. They're all on 72MHz, that's what was used before 2.4GHz came out. I need to add some nitro fuel to my list as well. I've got 3 one gallon cans and even though they're all still factory sealed, I don't think any of it will be any good after 12 years. But maybe it will. I'm thinking out loud... Anyways, enjoy the hobby, have a great time and stay well, especially during this pandemic!
Hello, thanks for useful informations. I have a question. Is 1:1 thrust:weight ratio enough for safe flight? I mean for fixed wing aircraft cruise flight. From my aspect, here is the thing firsty, you need to analyse drag of aircraft then you should find stall speed after that your thrust at stall speed must overcome drag. Is this way neccessary?
Thanks so much for this explanation...at last I know what all the pairs of figures in the description mean...they have funny great looking symbols sometimes also, but I now know what the values are (e.g. diameter and length) Many thanks! Mike H
Thanks man. I thought that the 3 wires supposed to connect to something entirely. But now I know I can just use the positive and negative., and leave the wire that I don't need out
Innovation Hi Innovation, the three wires do all need to be connected. If you have a motor that only has two wires coming out then this is a brushed motor and you will need a brushed speed controller to run it. A brushless ESC with 3 wires will NOT run a brushed motor with two. Hope I've not just taught my grandmother to suck eggs there!!Happy flying!
Hi. I have some questions related to motors. I hope you will answer to me. I notice that motors for planes have normally higher can rotor than the motors for drones. Why this difference? Comparing motors for planes and for drones with same diameter, same kv and same voltage applied, what are the differences between motors? Considering same motors characteristics, may I use a drone motors on a plane? There is any differences in performance? About propeller, which are the main differences between drones props and planes props? Is it ok to use drones props on planes? Thanks for your attention and replay. Regards. Giorgio.
That's a lot of questions here are the short answers ;) 1) 5" quad motors are all about speed and performance, planes have more room and don't need to squeeze that much power out of a small space 2) Most of it is branding and hype, sure there are motors with better bearings, magnets and quality control on both sides of the fence. 3) Yes you can, I've used multirotor motors on lots of wings 4) Not by much at all if the specs are the same 5) Drone props are all about speed, plane props tend to be more of a range of performance and efficiency. 6) Yep Happy flying!
Having got back into RC after all these years (where have I been)? Things have gotten a little complicated. You can just buy kits that easily fit for the models your transforming, the only twizz is the mathematics involved. Too much torque bears heavily on the drive-trains. Finding the right electronics/motors/esc's that are more efficient that put you on the "fulcrum" of lastibility/high speed economically needs these informative videos to explain. I have learned a lot from this. You have to burn-out some equipment to learn the hard way.
You can avoid a lot of the guesswork if you know a few things about the model. Check out the motor and prop playlist for the tips and tricks... happy flying!
Thanks for sharing. I have a question. Why don't you cut the motor shaft so the prop hub sits lower on the shaft? There's far more leverage to bend the shaft at that length and why people use lock nuts instead of the prop spinner nut on quads. Plus if the hub sits up against the motor flat it supports the shaft as well. I have similar motor and when I saw how high the prop was sitting on it I was really surprised. There must be a reason and all I could think of was allowing you to use a different prop adapter that has a deeper hole for more grip when using a collet type adapter... but Turnigy supplies a short one. I thought I got the wrong one till I saw yours. I don't get it. Only advantage is better center prop air flow. Doesn't seem like a very good trade off unless you are running a pusher and even then prop shafts get bent and it adds weight further behind the C/G. So seems like you get extra length to use your choice of prop adapter.
These motors are used for all kinds of prop adapters so the length is needed for the flexibility. You can cut the shaft down if you want to but make sure that the motor is completely covered so the metal filings don't go into the bearings or into the can and stick to the magnets. Happy flying!
Painless360 Ok that makes sense. Thanks. BTW... do you prefer collect prop adaptors or set screws? From what I have read some say the set screw type are more accurate and spin truer and have better balance but even then getting a good one machined well is hit and miss. I got 3 set screw types and only one was usable and all had poor quality set screws I was able to crack without the allen key stripping out the hole in testing them. Makes me wonder about the quality of set screws used in the motors as well and how much pressure against the bell mounting the adapter is safe to apply without affecting it. Seems like disassembly for inspection and reassembly is the only safe bet but on a quad that means doing 4 motors. Bad enough the time it takes to balance props. Really like the T Motors but they too have had issues with magnets coming loose on new motors. I think I like made in America best but that no longer exists and when it does it doesn't last long.
Not a fan of setscrews myself, as with all prop mounts the cheaper the brand the worse balanced they are! I had a few set screw types in the early days and stripped both screws (I am careful too !). It's personal choice and what you know and trust. Happy flying!
Well it seems the quality of manufacturing determines which is best and only good ones I have seen are made in Germany and cost more than the motor I want to put it on. I'd like to know what brand... they all seem to come from all over China with no one claiming responsibility with a brand name for the quality.
Good Morning Lee I have a few questions about an electric set-up 1) The kV figure, is it off-load with no prop fitted. 2) Or is it on-load, with the correct prop and drawing the quoted current ? 3) In my test the current was only 34 A, ie, much less than the quoted figure. ESC, Turnigy Plush 100A. Battery, Turnigy Nano-Tech 4000 mAh. Watt meter, Hobbyking P1 HV. EMax Grand Turbo GT 2826 / 06 2899ba07-aea5-47c3-acba-bee7f787927e.png The motor is quoted at 4S 710kV 14 x 7 Prop 7600 rpm 51 A But at 4S 7600 / 14.8 = 513 kV ! These figures (513 and 503) are similar When I tested the motor 4S (13.7V on load) 14 x 7 Prop 6900 rpm 34 A 473 W 6900 / 13.7 = 503 kV ( 13.7 x 710 = 9727 rpm ? ) I also checked the AC voltage 8.7 V AC ph to ph 770Hz ( 6900 / 8.7 = 793 kV ) The battery voltage after testing is 15.1 V My questions are, what voltage does the kV figure relate to, and why is the on-load current so low ? Thank you for your attention Regards John McClean, in Wicklow
A motor will try and maintain that speed in all conditions. The wattage it'll pull depends on the load. Larger props and more pitch will need more power... Best of luck
hello painless lots of useful info but i got a question.i have a motor whos label just says 1300kv.and no more info. can you explain pls.how one can determine motors wattage or the amps.thanks.
mohammad abid You need to go back to the supplier and ask. You can connect it to an ESC and then connect the ESC to the battery using a amp/wattmeter. Places like HobbyKing sell them. Power the motor with the prop (make sure its securely fastened to something) and take a reading of the Watts on the meter. Best of luck with it.
Hi. I'm new at this but questions are abundant. I've seen different size motors with the same "kv" parameter. What is the difference then? I've heard people referring to brushless motors just with a simple number: 15, 12, 11, etc. What do they mean? Thank you in advance !
+José Alberto Varona Sánchez I would recommend watching the 'Introduction to RC' playlist on the channel. It covers a lot of the basics. To answer your questions - The size of the motor is more about power, larger motors normally produce more torque (turning force) so can spin larger props and produce more lift. The other numbers you asked about are numbers that people use as a shorthand are about the size of the motor. Sadly the industry still haven't decided on a standard so sometimes the number refers to the diameter of the rotor inside the motor, sometime the physical size of the can that's it's housed in. Hope that helps.
i wonder if there is an algorithm for the perfect motor, maybe it would have to involve the total weight of the multi rotor divided by 4, and then it would be the highest ratio of torque to that weight
can you link the chart that gives the battery capacity Vs no. of blades ? I am upgrading my toothpick from 2-blade to 3, and now wondering if that will have too much effect on the battery life and motors
Hello nice and helpful explanation I’m new to the hobby, but I don’t know how to calculate de motor current draw?’ The motor of my plane is 1,100KV and uses 3S batteries, which would be the number of amp os this motor.?….thanks
Hello, very informative video (as always). Unfortunately not all manufactures will supply adequate information for their motors with most of them providing only the rather not so useful Kv. How can one determine the number of poles in a brushless motor? Thanks and regards George
Thanks for your prompt response. The problem of course rises when the specs don't include pole count and looking at the motor the winding pattern is not obvious. For instance a motor with 9 coils how many poles does it have?
Very interesting. Can you maybe explain why brush-less motors get hot so quickly? Also do you cause the motor any harm if you run it at a lower voltage than it is rated for (say half)? Would this also mean less current is being drawn (so does battery last longer)?
Hi John, the motors should get warm in operation but not hot. If they are then this is an indication that something is wrong. Typically it means that you are using too large a prop on the motor or the bearing(s) are degrading. Check the specs on the motors you are using to make sure you are not trying to swing too large a prop. Hope this helps. Happy flying!
Painless360 Well I am not sure where the line is drawn between warm and hot but certainly I could still hold them in my hands. I should add that I had nothing connected (no prop or other load) as I was merely trying them out for the first time. The motor does make a noise as if something is brushing against something else though. Should it be silent?
John Fiott Hi again. I re-ran the test and the motor was bearable to hold in the hands after about 2 minutes but barely so. The ESC (rated for 30Amps and 4S) also got hot and this when I was running everything from a bench PSU set at 12 Volts and a current limited 5 Amps max. As I said also with no load attached.
John Fiott Hi John, sounds like something is wrong. After running it under no load the can should be only slightly warm to the touch. Sounds like there is friction inside the motor and the fact that you can 'hear' something seems to support that guess. I'd strip it and check the bearings and make sure non of the magnets have moved from their positions and rubbing on the armature..Best of luck.
I am having trouble finding the current consumption of brushless motors, most of the online store have no data sheet for that particular motor. Do I simply divide the power by voltage? or is there some calculation i need to do? Thank you!
I know its a bit late but will you do one on electric longboard motors? There seems to be some confusion about VESC or premade ESC from ebay and their ratings in the DIY community.
That's not something I've got a lot of experience with. I have a seen a few electrics kits that seem to remove a lot of the guesswork.. Sorry I can't be of more help on this one..
Most motors either come with a prop adapter or most multirotor motors only come with a prop nut.. Without the actual model number of the motor you're using it's tricky to add any more. Best of luck!
Ok thank you !! I have A2212 13T 1000KV but i don't know how i can set the prop adapter on the metal rod. www.dx.com/fr/p/kv1000-brushless-exterior-rotor-motor-outrunner-motor-yellow-154904#.WNGBHqg2se0 Sorry, my english is not very good ^^
you say its 10-20% greater esc then motor, but i have heard that to "great" an amount can supposidly cause damage! for example if i had a 25 peak-amp/watt motor and a 150 amp esc i have been told that the motor can burn itself out because the esc will supply it with more current then it could handle. is this true? is their any problem with having a MUCH greater ESC then the motors needs aside from cost?
I'm guessing that's usually from those who don't understand how it works. The ESC doesn't push current the motor can't use. Having a higher capacity in the ESC makes wire that even when the motor is at 100% the ESC isn't at maximum too.. Happy flying
Hi, I have a problem you may be able to help with. I have a 200W motor and a 40 amp ESC together with a speed controller and a programmer. I am not building an aircraft but a CNC router and need to program the motor and ESC. The motor will be fed with a 12 volt 30 amp power supply. Does the ESC control output lead, feed out the full voltage or is it limited to protect the Speed controller and programmer. Secondly how do I use the programmer to slow start the motor and have if possible computer control of motor on/off and hopefully speed. Needless to say I am a complete novice with this setup but a competent electronic engineer. Any specifications or diagrams pertaining to this would be appreciated. Cheers MoK
I have no experience using a motor in this way so can't comment on the usage. I can answer the other part of your question though! The motor that connects to an ESC is basically a three phase motor. The ESC drives the motor by pulsing the full battery voltage very quickly to each of the three phases in turn, the more throttle the more 'on' the voltage is to that phase of the motor. The frequency of these pulses to the next phase of the motor is commonly known as the 'switching frequency' and in an RC model this is directly controlled by the PWM signal on the throttle channel going into the ESC.
Painless360 Hi and thanks for your reply, however the principle of operation of brushless motors is understood so is not the problem, the data available on the ESC, programmer and speed controller is very sparce to say the least so the danger of misconnection is high. Without reverse engineering the devices, the connection of devices without data is not without its mishaps. I require the connection data for the motor, ESC, programmer and speed controller. In a nutshell thats it. Cheers MoK
Very nice description. "Motor needs X amps"...with following specs, can u please tell me X=? Max Efficiency current : 4-10A (>75%) No Load Current: 0.5A @ 10V Max Current: 13A for 60 seconds
Thanks, actually I need to understand exactly that how much amp my motor needs?. You can see the specification of my motor here ... drive.google.com/file/d/0BwguQaBwEJZ-UWhfLWJTYjVHOE0/view?usp=sharing
Most modern motors are a lot better than they used to be. You do get what you pay for with them though.. I've used lots in my build and trust EMAX and a few of the other leading brands..
@@Painless360 sir what you think about the ''Racerstar BR2830 ''' i want to use them for my first airplane becausee they generat around 1130(g) 238W , are they good for longterm use
Why do smaller motors have higher KV example is a scorpion motor I saw SII-3026-1190KV (V2) 1050W motor turning 1190KV. Where a larger 45MM diameter motor is around 2000 watt motor only turns 170KV. Isn't the idea to turn the prop faster which is related to KV turns per volt? Also I noticed these fast 100mph foam planes like the eflight rare bear and the rockhobby air racer have high small props like 8" 8 pitch or 10x10 pitch. Smaller props with more pitch get higher speeds?
+kell490 The thrust you get is a result of the size and pitch of the prop and the speed it turns. The most economical way to get thrust is to use a huge rotor with a very low KV/High Torque motor. Sadly, the smaller models we use do not give us the room for the bigger props so we have to turn the smaller props a lot faster to generate the same thrust. So in the hobby, where we don't have the room for/want a big motor and prop we need a small motor with a much higher KV. Hope that makes sense.
Painless360 So another question I have been playing around with the prop on my voodoo racer has a 880KV motor about 750watts. What I notice is a smaller prop turning higher RPM with more pitch like a 10x10 or cut down 9x10 prop the plane goes a lot faster. Where larger electrics with big props turning less rpm go half the speed as my plane with those props my current draw is lower then larger prop.
If you have an unknown bldc motor, how does one determine the proper controller. I built a bldc motor and bought a cheap controller that sort of worked with the motor but would sometimes have trouble starting the motor and after about 3 dozen test, blew 2 mosfets on the controller. I can answer any question about the motor's design if asked. A couple things about the motor..... 1) the motor is wired wye. 2) At about 216 rpm, the motor generates 0.126vac across any two coils. 3) The rotor has 12 poles. 4) The stator has 3 coils wound in a 4 turn serpentine or rather falharbor winding pattern for the 12 rotor poles. 5) The copper resistance across any two coils is a tiny fraction of an ohm. Each of the three coils is made from about 80 inches of 16 gauge wire. that should be about 0.027 ohms to a coil. 6) I made my own laminated slotless steel stator to fix the stator coils on. Do i need to buy a meter and measure the inductance?
Hi, i have purchased an old model which im putting together and its recommending a 400 class which i presume is a type of brushed motor at the time, how do i convert this to a brushless motor, it states the model weight is 800g which i presume is without motor and electrical gear. Many thanks, Nick.
No idea what a '400' class is. Sites like eCalc can be a huge help in finding a good motor and prop combo for an older model if you know things like weight, wing specs etc..
Thanks for the vid. There's some good information in it. I have a second-hand motor, but the only label on it says "dys Brushless Motor G-Power series ROHS Made in China. Nothing else. It's an out-runner. Is there any way of finding more information about it? It's quite a big motor - 34.75mm diameter, 47.7mm length, or 65mm including the shaft, which has a diameter of 5mm. It appears to be quite densely wound. Obviously, I can only see the wires on the outer layer of windings, but I'd say (without actually counting them) that there are about 18 or 20 turns visible, and as they are not wound absolutely flat, I think there must be at least one other layer beneath. The 12 laminated metal poles are 26mm long, as are the 14 magnets. Is there a method or formula for working out the Kv at least?
+Mike Collins I'd spend time looking for images in Google search using the information you have at the moment. Very tricky to work out KV without the specs or lots of testing.. Best of luck!
+Painless360 Thanks for the quick response. In the interim, I have been doing what you said. Going on the measurements, I deduced that it was a DYS 3548 so I looked it up on the DYS site. It comes in three flavours - KV: 1100KV/900KV/790KV All are exactly the same weight and have the same dimensions. As far as I can tell from the photos, they all have the same label too. About the only difference is "Ri(M Ω)" : 0.023 / 0.036 / 0.040 I don't know what "Ri" is, and I can't think of anything around this motor that would be measured in mega-ohms. If they mean mΩ (milli-ohms), my meter won't go anywhere near it (min = 0.5Ω) Ho hum. It seemed like a bargain when I got it. It has a noisy bearing as well.
I'm looking to build my first quad but am a little confused with something. When it comes to picking a motor/ESC combination, I've seen where it's recommended that the ESC handle 10-15% more amps than the max draw of the motors. I see everyone in the 250 class using 12A ESCs but the battery draw to the same class motors are from 11-14A. Am I missing something? Thanks.
Robert Hathaway I wouldn't risk it that way - there are tolerances in the ratings of the electronics that are in your favour but I wouldn't trust my model to that! I'd always make sure my ESC can supply slight more than the max current from the motor and make sure that the LIPO can comfortably supply a little more than the maximum rating of the ESC. Happy flying!
www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__40269__HobbyKing_Donkey_ST3511_810kv_Brushless_Power_System_Combo.html This is the motor I was planning on getting.
See my other video on choosing a motor/prop. You'll need each motor/prop on the model to make about 2.5kg of thrust.. I will be looking at the choices for pilots looking to build much heavier larger models next month so that series may help.. Best of luck!
i'm trying to make quadcopter for a school project.i'm at a loss as to what motor+prop to choose.my quadcopter needs to be quite fast(but doesn't need to perform tricky manoeuvers),but is heavy(has camera and other accessories).could you please help me?should i choose a low kv + high diameter prop?
+Houidi mohamed amin see our video on choosing motor and props in the 'Introduction to Radio Control' series.. you need to know how heavy the model will be first.. best of luck!
I'm looking for a motor that can go the speed of 70mph or higher that can controlled by remote. I need this for a skateboard. Please tell what type of motor do I need and what's the watts, amp, kv, dc, or rpm?
Absolutely no idea, that's outside my experience. You need to figure out the wheel RPM you need for that and the torque and work back from there. I'd suspect that there are forums and places on the 'net that have already figured all that stuff out. Best of luck!
+Aman K.Santhosh it really depends on how you want to fly. Having about 80% of the weight of the model available as thrust is really the lower end of the scale and handy for trainer star planes, having up to two and a half times the weight of the model in thrust is usually where high-end 3D pilots want the performance (sometimes more !). Everyday flying you be looking for a motor and prop combination that could deliver around 7.5 kilograms of thrust easily. Hope that helps
My 450 size drone with Phantom 1 guts. total weight is 1633 grams. I am looking to upgrade the 2212 motors to accommodate the extra weight. I'm using 2x 3s3000mah 25c batteries and I'm only getting about 8 mins of flight. What size motors would you suggest? I'm using Phantom 3 9x4.5 props.
+Dale Adkins it's not just about the size of Motors, it's also about how big the prop is that motor can spin. For maximum efficiency and flight time you want very large props spinning slowly. See my video where I tested out a high KV motor with a small prop against such a setup and found how much more efficient it was. Best of luck
Hello sir one thing more will the plane work if I am not using the tail and the back wings and is I am using a car transmitter to fly a plane is that ok please answer me as soon as possible
+Harsahej Singh I would recommend that you use the right transmitter for the model. With only two controls (steering and throttle) you would struggle to control the model. You really need three minimum for a plane. Best of luck.
I have a question for you would I notice the difference between a 850 KV to 880 Kv or is there not going to be that much of a difference the reason why I'm asking I have a 850kv in my plane now I want to switch it to an 880 not sure if it's worth the money
A small change, depends on the battery and prop you're using. I have a video out at the weekend (you can see it now in the Ardupilot/Matek plane build series playlist now) that covers this a little..
I have a question but cant seem to get an answer. On gimbal motor ie: BGM4108-130 how does the polarity work ? is it the same as prop motors ? wire it any way you want ?
+Krysta Blackerby the KV rating is the speed that the motor will try and maintain, so as you increase the load on the motor with a larger prop it will draw more and more current in an attempt to keep that speed up. Hope that helps
Thank you for your reply. I guess I am not understanding how the speed is varied if it is always trying to maintain a certain speed. I have seen from experience that the more current a motor is drawing the more RPMs it will produce. Meanwhile the voltage drop remains about the same despite current draw. It makes sense that more power equals more speed. But I fail to see exactly what real usefulness I can get out of the Kv rating. It seems an RPM per Amp rating would be more useful, considering batteries are also rated mAh.
Painless360 thank you! i'm sorry i was mistakenly using the Kv (2700) instead of the Watts (5.5) for my calculations. then i looked more attentively into it and saw my mistake. i'm new to this!! :) thanks for the prompt reply!!
friedchicken1981 No problem. We all started out as 'newbies' in the hobby and there is no such thing as a 'daft' question (but there are lazy buggers who can't use google to find the answers themselves! ;) Happy flying!
Great video, its the only good explanation of electric motors iv found. My issue is, how do you size up electric motors for older glow models that dont come with recommended motor sizes ect. Is their a compare chart which would give you a glow to electric equivalent? cheers
First let me state that I am far from expert on this, but I am putting my 2pennyworth in as my advice is probably more helpful than none at all. What I do know is that replacing glow with electric is a 'rule of thumb' endeavour. You cannot just replace a given glow size with a given electric motor, things are a litlle more complicated than that. First you need to look at the power of the recommended glow engine. These are usually given in horsepower, but you will find electric power is specified in Watts. No worry, hp and watts are the same thing just using a different scale (like Celsius & Fahrenheit). There are 746W to 1hp, so just multiply the hp rating by 746 to get the wattage. Generally it takes a basic '35' 2-stroke glow to get 1hp, while higher tuned versions will give more but this is a good general baseline for engine size/ power rating. So divide the recommended engine size by 35 to get the hp for the model. Then multiply it by 746 (as given above) to get watts. Now you are in the area where Painless360's videos can start to help. Start looking at the model type, prop size etc while following his advice and you should get there okay. Remember that most glow engines operated in a practical range of about 15,000rpm (while smaller engines rev higher & larger ones lower). A point also worth remembering is that the power delivery of a glow is very different from that of an electric motor. They have very little torque at low rpm, all their power comes in at high revs, while an electric motor is much more linear. I would deal with this by upping the power required a little bit, solely on the basis that you can always throttle back an overpowered model, while the only solution to an underpowered model is to replace the motor. Of necessity this is very vague but I'm sure that following these rules will get you flying. And I'm certain you will very quickly develop the necessary feel where you can just look at a glow model and say 'that will need an xxx electric power plant'. Or you can just do as I do. Chuck high powered motor in big models, little motors in little models & medium motors in medium models. With revvy motors (& small diameter, high pitch props) in fast models, and torquey motors (with big props) in donkey models.
Great question! In theory - they should be. In reality the will not provide the same thrust due to the wire used, magnet position and strength etc. If you need to replace a damaged motor on a model try and get exactly the same model.. Hope that helps..
Thanks for replying. I'm planning to build the Anakin Club Racer 6" in which they recommended Xnova 2206/2000kv. I happen to have Cobra 2208/2000kv but I don't know whether I should, since the cobra bell is slightly taller. And on another page, they recommended Cobra 2100kv. Will my setup be significantly slower because of this?
Hey my names William, I'm building my 2nd homemade boat and I've gathered much information from your channel but I'm having trouble figuring out the right size prop for a twin motor setup, any advice it appreciated, thanks. Re: 2x rcrunning 4300kv brushless motors with 2x ovonics 3s lipo 2200mh 25c batteries
still helping 10 years later, thank you!
Thank god you exist in this world! I haven't been able to wrap my head around all these numbers since I started designing my own hexacopter. I have only been an RTF owner and pilot. I think I'm going to have to see all your videos now!
Welcome to the channel! :D
#*#&>×>28÷
The best video on motor sizes and designations that I have found, no doubt. Fantastic job!
Great info. I was so confused until I found this video. Thanks for sharing.
your always the go to guy when it comes to rc...best teacher ever
This helped me so much… You are a naturally gifted teacher. I think neodymium magnets in motors, brushless motor technology, Li-po battery technology, all these things that have caused the RC hobby to advance by leaps and bounds in recent years are going to work their way into every day technology in other areas and become game changers beyond the scope of what is now understood. I would see these motors and batteries advertised in hobby magazines and while they appear to be very fast and powerful, I didn’t understand any of the information that was talked about in the ad… This video cleared so much of that up for me, but I’m still just getting started. Now headed towards your video about batteries… Definite new subscriber! Thanks again so much.
oh my gosh, finally a person who will tell people what those confusing numbers are. thank you
Check out the other videos in the 'Introduction to remote control' series for more videos that explain things in as simple English as I can manage! :)
Not new to the hobby but new to electrics. Thanks for the explanation of the ID numbers.!
A huge Thank you for the information!
A grateful beginner from Pennsylvania
Thank you for taking your time to share this info, you have provided me with greater understanding to select a brushless system for an RC car.
Nice explanation of RC motors. Thanks for the clear descriptions.
Such a great informational video. Thanks for the effort you put into making this information very clear.
Thanks for this! I sort of had an idea and grasp of the designations, but as you and everyone else has probably been aware of, every manufacturer has their own concept of numbering schemes.
Albeit kinda/sorta following a common system, I found from one to the other slight differences that confused me.
Now I can look at them with better clarity!
Love your videos you make them easy to understand and get your head around certain subjects. 😊
Your videos have helped me out more than any other. Thank you sir!
Thank you: you are giving very clean and clear information: I like it!
Thanks Lee, Great stuff! Another excellent video.👍👍👍
Thanks for the very informative video. I was wondering what all of these numbers meant and now I know thanks to you. I am building a quad copter and I do not need to buy motors that I will never need. I need a scout quad that I can use to patrol our property. One of our neighbors likes to dump hazardous waste instead of deposing of it legally. If I can catch him on video I can cook his goose. Thanks again.
+David Wachter best of luck!
Great info, just getting back into RC models. Not touched anything since I was 14 (20 years ago) so very helpfull
Thanks for the comment, check out the other videos in the 'RC Basics' series.. Best of luck!
@Philip Tomkins
LOL! That's funny, I'm the same way. I'm 20 years older than you but I too, started when I was about 13 or 14. I'll stick with the hobby for a couple years, then shelf it for 10 years or so, then repeat the process. I'm just getting back into it again. Almost all my planes have 70"+ wingspans and all of them are built from kits. Since this is the longest I've been away from the hobby (13 years) and my eyesight has changed (i'm too busy to go get some glasses. Well, that's the excuse I use ) I decided to get an RTF foamy for a refresher course rather than use one that I already have. It's an Easy Trainer by FMS and it's really easy to fly. I wanted to get an RTF because all my "old fashioned" ni-cad transmitter and receiver battery packs are no good. They're all on 72MHz, that's what was used before 2.4GHz came out. I need to add some nitro fuel to my list as well. I've got 3 one gallon cans and even though they're all still factory sealed, I don't think any of it will be any good after 12 years. But maybe it will. I'm thinking out loud...
Anyways, enjoy the hobby, have a great time and stay well, especially during this pandemic!
Very informative and helpful as usual. Thanks.
This is a GREAT video! I’m just entering the hobby and this is one of the subjects I was curious about. Very good info.
welcome to a great hobby! If you're starting out then a lot of the videos on the 'Introduction to Remote Control' series should come in useful..
Great explainer, thanks a mill for taking the time to simplify all the terminology
Thank you. Really useful intro to motors and the numbers
Thanks for the clear info. Really understandable
Very helpful videos! Love the informative graphics. Thanks!
Hello, thanks for useful informations. I have a question. Is 1:1 thrust:weight ratio enough for safe flight? I mean for fixed wing aircraft cruise flight. From my aspect, here is the thing firsty, you need to analyse drag of aircraft then you should find stall speed after that your thrust at stall speed must overcome drag. Is this way neccessary?
Depends on the model type and scale. See my video on it.. Best of luck
@Painless 360
Your video was very informative and well explained. Thank you for the education.
Thanks so much for this explanation...at last I know what all the pairs of figures in the description mean...they have funny great looking symbols sometimes also, but I now know what the values are (e.g. diameter and length) Many thanks!
Mike H
Thanks man. I thought that the 3 wires supposed to connect to something entirely. But now I know I can just use the positive and negative., and leave the wire that I don't need out
Innovation Hi Innovation, the three wires do all need to be connected. If you have a motor that only has two wires coming out then this is a brushed motor and you will need a brushed speed controller to run it. A brushless ESC with 3 wires will NOT run a brushed motor with two. Hope I've not just taught my grandmother to suck eggs there!!Happy flying!
When considering the weight vs thrust is the fly weight with all components of the plane including the motor and battery?
It is the flying weight, so it is with everything attached...
Good stuff thank you. I took notes!
Long time owner & still unfurl thanks & good luck to any one out there starting off in the hobby today!
Thank you very much for the lesson. Very clear!
Hi.
I have some questions related to motors.
I hope you will answer to me.
I notice that motors for planes have normally higher can rotor than the motors for drones.
Why this difference?
Comparing motors for planes and for drones with same diameter, same kv and same voltage applied, what are the differences between motors?
Considering same motors characteristics, may I use a drone motors on a plane?
There is any differences in performance?
About propeller, which are the main differences between drones props and planes props?
Is it ok to use drones props on planes?
Thanks for your attention and replay.
Regards. Giorgio.
That's a lot of questions here are the short answers ;)
1) 5" quad motors are all about speed and performance, planes have more room and don't need to squeeze that much power out of a small space
2) Most of it is branding and hype, sure there are motors with better bearings, magnets and quality control on both sides of the fence.
3) Yes you can, I've used multirotor motors on lots of wings
4) Not by much at all if the specs are the same
5) Drone props are all about speed, plane props tend to be more of a range of performance and efficiency.
6) Yep
Happy flying!
thank you so much for teaching us now i can wind my burned motor
Having got back into RC after all these years (where have I been)?
Things have gotten a little complicated.
You can just buy kits that easily fit for the models your transforming, the only twizz is the mathematics involved.
Too much torque bears heavily on the drive-trains.
Finding the right electronics/motors/esc's that are more efficient that put you on the "fulcrum" of lastibility/high speed economically needs these informative videos to explain.
I have learned a lot from this.
You have to burn-out some equipment to learn the hard way.
You can avoid a lot of the guesswork if you know a few things about the model. Check out the motor and prop playlist for the tips and tricks... happy flying!
Thanks very helpful for a newbie like me, Great stuff!
Thanks for sharing. I have a question. Why don't you cut the motor shaft so the prop hub sits lower on the shaft? There's far more leverage to bend the shaft at that length and why people use lock nuts instead of the prop spinner nut on quads. Plus if the hub sits up against the motor flat it supports the shaft as well. I have similar motor and when I saw how high the prop was sitting on it I was really surprised. There must be a reason and all I could think of was allowing you to use a different prop adapter that has a deeper hole for more grip when using a collet type adapter... but Turnigy supplies a short one. I thought I got the wrong one till I saw yours. I don't get it. Only advantage is better center prop air flow. Doesn't seem like a very good trade off unless you are running a pusher and even then prop shafts get bent and it adds weight further behind the C/G. So seems like you get extra length to use your choice of prop adapter.
These motors are used for all kinds of prop adapters so the length is needed for the flexibility. You can cut the shaft down if you want to but make sure that the motor is completely covered so the metal filings don't go into the bearings or into the can and stick to the magnets.
Happy flying!
Painless360 Ok that makes sense. Thanks. BTW... do you prefer collect prop adaptors or set screws? From what I have read some say the set screw type are more accurate and spin truer and have better balance but even then getting a good one machined well is hit and miss. I got 3 set screw types and only one was usable and all had poor quality set screws I was able to crack without the allen key stripping out the hole in testing them. Makes me wonder about the quality of set screws used in the motors as well and how much pressure against the bell mounting the adapter is safe to apply without affecting it. Seems like disassembly for inspection and reassembly is the only safe bet but on a quad that means doing 4 motors. Bad enough the time it takes to balance props. Really like the T Motors but they too have had issues with magnets coming loose on new motors. I think I like made in America best but that no longer exists and when it does it doesn't last long.
Not a fan of setscrews myself, as with all prop mounts the cheaper the brand the worse balanced they are! I had a few set screw types in the early days and stripped both screws (I am careful too !).
It's personal choice and what you know and trust.
Happy flying!
Well it seems the quality of manufacturing determines which is best and only good ones I have seen are made in Germany and cost more than the motor I want to put it on. I'd like to know what brand... they all seem to come from all over China with no one claiming responsibility with a brand name for the quality.
Thank you this video was great! getting ready to build my first quad.
Good luck with the build! Happy flying..
Good Morning Lee
I have a few questions about an electric set-up
1) The kV figure, is it off-load with no prop fitted.
2) Or is it on-load, with the correct prop and drawing the quoted current ?
3) In my test the current was only 34 A, ie, much less than the quoted figure.
ESC, Turnigy Plush 100A. Battery, Turnigy Nano-Tech 4000 mAh. Watt meter, Hobbyking P1 HV.
EMax Grand Turbo GT 2826 / 06
2899ba07-aea5-47c3-acba-bee7f787927e.png
The motor is quoted at
4S 710kV 14 x 7 Prop 7600 rpm 51 A But at 4S 7600 / 14.8 = 513 kV !
These figures (513 and 503) are similar
When I tested the motor
4S (13.7V on load) 14 x 7 Prop 6900 rpm 34 A 473 W 6900 / 13.7 = 503 kV
( 13.7 x 710 = 9727 rpm ? )
I also checked the AC voltage 8.7 V AC ph to ph 770Hz
( 6900 / 8.7 = 793 kV )
The battery voltage after testing is 15.1 V
My questions are, what voltage does the kV figure relate to, and why is the on-load current so low ?
Thank you for your attention
Regards
John McClean, in Wicklow
A motor will try and maintain that speed in all conditions. The wattage it'll pull depends on the load. Larger props and more pitch will need more power... Best of luck
Very helpful for this beginner. Thank you!
So, would the black wire be for negative, red for positive, and yellow for??
If you're talking about the three wires from the ESC to the motor then they are neither. See my video on ESCs and motors..
Great video with NO crappy music!
just what I wanted to know thanks for doing this
Wow. Excellent job. Nicely explained.
hello painless lots of useful info but i got a question.i have a motor whos label just says 1300kv.and no more info.
can you explain pls.how one can determine motors wattage or the amps.thanks.
mohammad abid You need to go back to the supplier and ask. You can connect it to an ESC and then connect the ESC to the battery using a amp/wattmeter. Places like HobbyKing sell them. Power the motor with the prop (make sure its securely fastened to something) and take a reading of the Watts on the meter.
Best of luck with it.
outstanding beginners tips...well done..Thanks
Hello, are you able to help me on how brushless motors should work when implemented on sslot cars?
Sxectly the same. But, the ESCs in a car can run forwards and backwards... Best of luck
Hi. I'm new at this but questions are abundant. I've seen different size motors with the same "kv" parameter. What is the difference then?
I've heard people referring to brushless motors just with a simple number: 15, 12, 11, etc. What do they mean?
Thank you in advance !
+José Alberto Varona Sánchez I would recommend watching the 'Introduction to RC' playlist on the channel. It covers a lot of the basics. To answer your questions - The size of the motor is more about power, larger motors normally produce more torque (turning force) so can spin larger props and produce more lift. The other numbers you asked about are numbers that people use as a shorthand are about the size of the motor. Sadly the industry still haven't decided on a standard so sometimes the number refers to the diameter of the rotor inside the motor, sometime the physical size of the can that's it's housed in. Hope that helps.
It helped a lot! Thank you. It's clearer now. Do you have any specific link for 'introduction to rc'?
Look in the playlists in the Painless360 channel here on RUclips - all in there.
One video with complete solution. Thank you bro. Do more videos.
Over 900 videos already on the channel, check them out :)
i wonder if there is an algorithm for the perfect motor, maybe it would have to involve the total weight of the multi rotor divided by 4, and then it would be the highest ratio of torque to that weight
can you link the chart that gives the battery capacity Vs no. of blades ? I am upgrading my toothpick from 2-blade to 3, and now wondering if that will have too much effect on the battery life and motors
I don't have that chart. Best of luck!
Hello nice and helpful explanation I’m new to the hobby, but I don’t know how to calculate de motor current draw?’ The motor of my plane is 1,100KV and uses 3S batteries, which would be the number of amp os this motor.?….thanks
You need to know the prop and then lookup the draw. See my motor and prop series... Best of luck
Hello, very informative video (as always). Unfortunately not all manufactures will supply adequate information for their motors with most of them providing only the rather not so useful Kv. How can one determine the number of poles in a brushless motor?
Thanks and regards
George
+George Venetsanos Usually from the specs or by looking at the motor - best of luck!
Thanks for your prompt response. The problem of course rises when the specs don't include pole count and looking at the motor the winding pattern is not obvious. For instance a motor with 9 coils how many poles does it have?
Why is it that you are interested in knowing the pole count? Most pilots and builders don't need to know..
i have the same bldc as shown in the video,how do i find out its amps and watt.please help me with this
+Sav job bdlc? Not sure what you are asking.
hobbyking.com/en_us/d2822-12-1800kv-brushless-outrunner-motor.html
Very interesting. Can you maybe explain why brush-less motors get hot so quickly? Also do you cause the motor any harm if you run it at a lower voltage than it is rated for (say half)? Would this also mean less current is being drawn (so does battery last longer)?
Hi John, the motors should get warm in operation but not hot. If they are then this is an indication that something is wrong. Typically it means that you are using too large a prop on the motor or the bearing(s) are degrading.
Check the specs on the motors you are using to make sure you are not trying to swing too large a prop.
Hope this helps. Happy flying!
Painless360 Well I am not sure where the line is drawn between warm and hot but certainly I could still hold them in my hands. I should add that I had nothing connected (no prop or other load) as I was merely trying them out for the first time. The motor does make a noise as if something is brushing against something else though. Should it be silent?
John Fiott Hi again. I re-ran the test and the motor was bearable to hold in the hands after about 2 minutes but barely so. The ESC (rated for 30Amps and 4S) also got hot and this when I was running everything from a bench PSU set at 12 Volts and a current limited 5 Amps max. As I said also with no load attached.
John Fiott Hi John, sounds like something is wrong. After running it under no load the can should be only slightly warm to the touch. Sounds like there is friction inside the motor and the fact that you can 'hear' something seems to support that guess. I'd strip it and check the bearings and make sure non of the magnets have moved from their positions and rubbing on the armature..Best of luck.
Painless360 Thanks for the advice!
Can this be used in a rc car for faster speeds?
masha Allah nice video bro, something to help with all the guess work up till now :-)
I am having trouble finding the current consumption of brushless motors, most of the online store have no data sheet for that particular motor. Do I simply divide the power by voltage? or is there some calculation i need to do? Thank you!
+Ta Ko you need the datasheet. I'd send the vendor a message and ask them for it., best of luck!
I know its a bit late but will you do one on electric longboard motors? There seems to be some confusion about VESC or premade ESC from ebay and their ratings in the DIY community.
That's not something I've got a lot of experience with. I have a seen a few electrics kits that seem to remove a lot of the guesswork.. Sorry I can't be of more help on this one..
Hi, i don't speak very well english, but i have question.
I have KV1000, but how you fixe the propeller on the motor ?
Most motors either come with a prop adapter or most multirotor motors only come with a prop nut.. Without the actual model number of the motor you're using it's tricky to add any more. Best of luck!
Ok thank you !! I have A2212 13T 1000KV but i don't know how i can set the prop adapter on the metal rod.
www.dx.com/fr/p/kv1000-brushless-exterior-rotor-motor-outrunner-motor-yellow-154904#.WNGBHqg2se0
Sorry, my english is not very good ^^
you say its 10-20% greater esc then motor, but i have heard that to "great" an amount can supposidly cause damage! for example if i had a 25 peak-amp/watt motor and a 150 amp esc i have been told that the motor can burn itself out because the esc will supply it with more current then it could handle. is this true? is their any problem with having a MUCH greater ESC then the motors needs aside from cost?
I'm guessing that's usually from those who don't understand how it works. The ESC doesn't push current the motor can't use. Having a higher capacity in the ESC makes wire that even when the motor is at 100% the ESC isn't at maximum too.. Happy flying
Hi,
I have a problem you may be able to help with.
I have a 200W motor and a 40 amp ESC together with a speed controller and a programmer. I am not building an aircraft but a CNC router and need to program the motor and ESC. The motor will be fed with a 12 volt 30 amp power supply. Does the ESC control output lead, feed out the full voltage or is it limited to protect the Speed controller and programmer. Secondly how do I use the programmer to slow start the motor and have if possible computer control of motor on/off and hopefully speed. Needless to say I am a complete novice with this setup but a competent electronic engineer. Any specifications or diagrams pertaining to this would be appreciated.
Cheers MoK
I have no experience using a motor in this way so can't comment on the usage. I can answer the other part of your question though!
The motor that connects to an ESC is basically a three phase motor. The ESC drives the motor by pulsing the full battery voltage very quickly to each of the three phases in turn, the more throttle the more 'on' the voltage is to that phase of the motor. The frequency of these pulses to the next phase of the motor is commonly known as the 'switching frequency' and in an RC model this is directly controlled by the PWM signal on the throttle channel going into the ESC.
Painless360 Hi and thanks for your reply, however the principle of operation of brushless motors is understood so is not the problem, the data available on the ESC, programmer and speed controller is very sparce to say the least so the danger of misconnection is high. Without reverse engineering the devices, the connection of devices without data is not without its mishaps. I require the connection data for the motor, ESC, programmer and speed controller. In a nutshell thats it.
Cheers
MoK
Excellent explanation. Thanks for this!!
Hey Painless360,
what does the D actually stand for?
I guess it has to sth to do with the mounting/screws, since the 2822 are sizes?
+Harald Krennrich At which bit in the video?
+Painless360 I'm talking about the "D"2822. Other (smaller) Motors are "A"2212, for instance.
@@haraldkrennrich3624 bitch is direct current
Very nice description. "Motor needs X amps"...with following specs, can u please tell me X=?
Max Efficiency current : 4-10A (>75%)
No Load Current: 0.5A @ 10V
Max Current: 13A for 60 seconds
+adnan ul haque of size the ESC to be a little more than the max current. Maybe a 15 amp minimum ESC.. Best of luck!
Thanks, actually I need to understand exactly that how much amp my motor needs?. You can see the specification of my motor here ...
drive.google.com/file/d/0BwguQaBwEJZ-UWhfLWJTYjVHOE0/view?usp=sharing
i want to get a 1300kv brushlessmotor ,but there is many brands DYS ,XXD ,racerstar, ....etc what's the best between all of them
Most modern motors are a lot better than they used to be. You do get what you pay for with them though.. I've used lots in my build and trust EMAX and a few of the other leading brands..
@@Painless360 sir what you think about the ''Racerstar BR2830 ''' i want to use them for my first airplane becausee they generat around 1130(g) 238W , are they good for longterm use
Why do smaller motors have higher KV example is a scorpion motor I saw SII-3026-1190KV (V2) 1050W motor turning 1190KV. Where a larger 45MM diameter motor is around 2000 watt motor only turns 170KV. Isn't the idea to turn the prop faster which is related to KV turns per volt? Also I noticed these fast 100mph foam planes like the eflight rare bear and the rockhobby air racer have high small props like 8" 8 pitch or 10x10 pitch. Smaller props with more pitch get higher speeds?
+kell490 The thrust you get is a result of the size and pitch of the prop and the speed it turns. The most economical way to get thrust is to use a huge rotor with a very low KV/High Torque motor. Sadly, the smaller models we use do not give us the room for the bigger props so we have to turn the smaller props a lot faster to generate the same thrust. So in the hobby, where we don't have the room for/want a big motor and prop we need a small motor with a much higher KV. Hope that makes sense.
Painless360 So another question I have been playing around with the prop on my voodoo racer has a 880KV motor about 750watts. What I notice is a smaller prop turning higher RPM with more pitch like a 10x10 or cut down 9x10 prop the plane goes a lot faster. Where larger electrics with big props turning less rpm go half the speed as my plane with those props my current draw is lower then larger prop.
ruclips.net/video/uLutMoh4Ttg/видео.html and ruclips.net/video/Sjwi_UnCLWc/видео.html may be interesting to you.. Happy flying!
Thanks, I am a newbie and all this kind of stuff helps!
Brilliant video thank you.
If you have an unknown bldc motor, how does one determine the proper controller.
I built a bldc motor and bought a cheap controller that sort of worked with the motor but would sometimes have trouble starting the motor and after about 3 dozen test, blew 2 mosfets on the controller.
I can answer any question about the motor's design if asked. A couple things about the motor..... 1) the motor is wired wye.
2) At about 216 rpm, the motor generates 0.126vac across any two coils.
3) The rotor has 12 poles.
4) The stator has 3 coils wound in a 4 turn serpentine or rather falharbor winding pattern for the 12 rotor poles.
5) The copper resistance across any two coils is a tiny fraction of an ohm. Each of the three coils is made from about 80 inches of 16 gauge wire. that should be about 0.027 ohms to a coil.
6) I made my own laminated slotless steel stator to fix the stator coils on.
Do i need to buy a meter and measure the inductance?
Thank you very much for your help.
Best
George
I have question sir, what is PULL load mean? For example, on load pull= 455g ect, tank you...
Not sure, thrust?
@@Painless360yeah that make sense, maybe that term for thrust, cz i found that in the BLDC datasheet, thanks for good video
Hey there! Just a Quick question: which ESC and which battery i need for 1000KV or 1400KV version of this?
+Berkay CoreSec see our videos on sizing components in our Quadcopter building for beginners series. We cover how to check it out. Best of luck!
Hi, i have purchased an old model which im putting together and its recommending a 400 class which i presume is a type of brushed motor at the time, how do i convert this to a brushless motor, it states the model weight is 800g which i presume is without motor and electrical gear.
Many thanks,
Nick.
No idea what a '400' class is. Sites like eCalc can be a huge help in finding a good motor and prop combo for an older model if you know things like weight, wing specs etc..
@@Painless360 ah thanks i will give it go! 😊👍
Thanks for the vid. There's some good information in it.
I have a second-hand motor, but the only label on it says "dys Brushless Motor G-Power series ROHS Made in China. Nothing else. It's an out-runner.
Is there any way of finding more information about it?
It's quite a big motor - 34.75mm diameter, 47.7mm length, or 65mm including the shaft, which has a diameter of 5mm.
It appears to be quite densely wound. Obviously, I can only see the wires on the outer layer of windings, but I'd say (without actually counting them) that there are about 18 or 20 turns visible, and as they are not wound absolutely flat, I think there must be at least one other layer beneath. The 12 laminated metal poles are 26mm long, as are the 14 magnets.
Is there a method or formula for working out the Kv at least?
+Mike Collins I'd spend time looking for images in Google search using the information you have at the moment. Very tricky to work out KV without the specs or lots of testing.. Best of luck!
+Painless360 Thanks for the quick response. In the interim, I have been doing what you said. Going on the measurements, I deduced that it was a DYS 3548 so I looked it up on the DYS site. It comes in three flavours - KV: 1100KV/900KV/790KV
All are exactly the same weight and have the same dimensions. As far as I can tell from the photos, they all have the same label too. About the only difference is "Ri(M Ω)" : 0.023 / 0.036 / 0.040
I don't know what "Ri" is, and I can't think of anything around this motor that would be measured in mega-ohms. If they mean mΩ (milli-ohms), my meter won't go anywhere near it (min = 0.5Ω)
Ho hum. It seemed like a bargain when I got it. It has a noisy bearing as well.
My bloc is running very slow I have checked everything' except lipo what do you think what is problem
+Kartik Raperia not sure what you are describing. What's a bloc?
If 12amp ESC's are sufficient for a build, is it sound to go for 20amp ESC's to allow for possible future motor/prop upgrades?
ShallowBeThyGames That is an option, allows for more choices when upgrading the motors in future..
Thanks for your response. I've been trying to find out if that was ok to do.
I'm looking to build my first quad but am a little confused with something. When it comes to picking a motor/ESC combination, I've seen where it's recommended that the ESC handle 10-15% more amps than the max draw of the motors. I see everyone in the 250 class using 12A ESCs but the battery draw to the same class motors are from 11-14A. Am I missing something? Thanks.
Robert Hathaway I wouldn't risk it that way - there are tolerances in the ratings of the electronics that are in your favour but I wouldn't trust my model to that! I'd always make sure my ESC can supply slight more than the max current from the motor and make sure that the LIPO can comfortably supply a little more than the maximum rating of the ESC. Happy flying!
Is there an eqivalency table anywhere to compare turns to kv?
Not really. It doesn't have a simple ratio..
Is iT possible to use This on a fan so iT Will work true a plug and socket?
What is the motor and ESC come as a combo, but the current the ESC puts out is lower than the motor can take?
FXRPIONEER Then go back to the vendor - the ESC should be rated for a little more then the motor for safety.
Happy flying!
www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__40269__HobbyKing_Donkey_ST3511_810kv_Brushless_Power_System_Combo.html
This is the motor I was planning on getting.
Make sure it has enough power for your needs.
Happy flying!
what would be recomended for a 5kg quad i prfer stability over speed with props i am used to tri props but will use standered props if needed
See my other video on choosing a motor/prop. You'll need each motor/prop on the model to make about 2.5kg of thrust.. I will be looking at the choices for pilots looking to build much heavier larger models next month so that series may help.. Best of luck!
thank you
I have a burshless A2212 / 6T 2200KV and BEC 3A @ 5v, 2-3cell, what size battery should I use
Depends on the weight the model can carry... See other video in my Introduction to remote control playlist... Happy flying!
@@Painless360 Thank you very much
i'm trying to make quadcopter for a school project.i'm at a loss as to what motor+prop to choose.my quadcopter needs to be quite fast(but doesn't need to perform tricky manoeuvers),but is heavy(has camera and other accessories).could you please help me?should i choose a low kv + high diameter prop?
+Houidi mohamed amin see our video on choosing motor and props in the 'Introduction to Radio Control' series.. you need to know how heavy the model will be first.. best of luck!
I'm looking for a motor that can go the speed of 70mph or higher that can controlled by remote. I need this for a skateboard. Please tell what type of motor do I need and what's the watts, amp, kv, dc, or rpm?
Absolutely no idea, that's outside my experience. You need to figure out the wheel RPM you need for that and the torque and work back from there. I'd suspect that there are forums and places on the 'net that have already figured all that stuff out. Best of luck!
Zulfkar Ali that's a very creative way of suicide
What rated motor should I use to fly a RC plane weighing say 5 kg smoothly?
+Aman K.Santhosh it really depends on how you want to fly. Having about 80% of the weight of the model available as thrust is really the lower end of the scale and handy for trainer star planes, having up to two and a half times the weight of the model in thrust is usually where high-end 3D pilots want the performance (sometimes more !). Everyday flying you be looking for a motor and prop combination that could deliver around 7.5 kilograms of thrust easily. Hope that helps
My 450 size drone with Phantom 1 guts. total weight is 1633 grams. I am looking to upgrade the 2212 motors to accommodate the extra weight. I'm using 2x 3s3000mah 25c batteries and I'm only getting about 8 mins of flight. What size motors would you suggest? I'm using Phantom 3 9x4.5 props.
+Dale Adkins it's not just about the size of Motors, it's also about how big the prop is that motor can spin. For maximum efficiency and flight time you want very large props spinning slowly. See my video where I tested out a high KV motor with a small prop against such a setup and found how much more efficient it was. Best of luck
Hello sir one thing more will the plane work if I am not using the tail and the back wings and is I am using a car transmitter to fly a plane is that ok please answer me as soon as possible
+Harsahej Singh I would recommend that you use the right transmitter for the model. With only two controls (steering and throttle) you would struggle to control the model. You really need three minimum for a plane.
Best of luck.
I have a question for you would I notice the difference between a 850 KV to 880 Kv or is there not going to be that much of a difference the reason why I'm asking I have a 850kv in my plane now I want to switch it to an 880 not sure if it's worth the money
A small change, depends on the battery and prop you're using. I have a video out at the weekend (you can see it now in the Ardupilot/Matek plane build series playlist now) that covers this a little..
I have a question but cant seem to get an answer. On gimbal motor ie: BGM4108-130 how does the polarity work ? is it the same as prop motors ? wire it any way you want ?
+HIXMF Exactly the same as any brushless motor.. Best of luck with it..
One more thing sir if I buy 1000kv motor will it work for more time than 2200kv motor if I use 2200 mah 3s 25c 11.1v lipo battery
It doesn't work that way. Motors that pull less amps make the power in the battery last longer. Amp draw has little to do with KV. Best of luck
Would you say the Kv rating is a max RPM estimate? and that speed is varied with current draw?
+Krysta Blackerby the KV rating is the speed that the motor will try and maintain, so as you increase the load on the motor with a larger prop it will draw more and more current in an attempt to keep that speed up. Hope that helps
Thank you for your reply. I guess I am not understanding how the speed is varied if it is always trying to maintain a certain speed. I have seen from experience that the more current a motor is drawing the more RPMs it will produce. Meanwhile the voltage drop remains about the same despite current draw. It makes sense that more power equals more speed. But I fail to see exactly what real usefulness I can get out of the Kv rating. It seems an RPM per Amp rating would be more useful, considering batteries are also rated mAh.
Also, THANK YOU for taking the time to make these wonderful videos.
Hey, I am a hobbyist can you tell me how do you select the motor for rc aircraft? How much thrust to weight ratio do you choose ?
Ona multi-rotor, you need more than twice the weight of the model as thrust. See my video on motor selection.. best of luck
Check out this page from E Flite www.horizonhobby.com/pdf/EFLPower46OutrunnerInstructions.pdf
Hi, how can we find how many poles are there in Brushless motor. Thanks.
If it's not in the specs then it's open up the motor and count them. There may be a better way but I don't know of it.. Best of luck!
if i have a 2700kv motor and a 7.4v battery, does it mean i'll have to find a 365amps esc?
Nope. find the max amps for the motor and then get a slightly larger ESC.
Happy flying!
Painless360 thank you! i'm sorry i was mistakenly using the Kv (2700) instead of the Watts (5.5) for my calculations. then i looked more attentively into it and saw my mistake. i'm new to this!! :) thanks for the prompt reply!!
friedchicken1981 No problem. We all started out as 'newbies' in the hobby and there is no such thing as a 'daft' question (but there are lazy buggers who can't use google to find the answers themselves! ;)
Happy flying!
So I have br1103, fx1103, and be1102 motors.. what do the letters mean?
+Redazu they are usually the manufacturers way to make the versions they make easier to tell apart ;) Happy flying!
Great video, its the only good explanation of electric motors iv found. My issue is, how do you size up electric motors for older glow models that dont come with recommended motor sizes ect. Is their a compare chart which would give you a glow to electric equivalent? cheers
First let me state that I am far from expert on this, but I am putting my 2pennyworth in as my advice is probably more helpful than none at all. What I do know is that replacing glow with electric is a 'rule of thumb' endeavour. You cannot just replace a given glow size with a given electric motor, things are a litlle more complicated than that.
First you need to look at the power of the recommended glow engine. These are usually given in horsepower, but you will find electric power is specified in Watts. No worry, hp and watts are the same thing just using a different scale (like Celsius & Fahrenheit). There are 746W to 1hp, so just multiply the hp rating by 746 to get the wattage.
Generally it takes a basic '35' 2-stroke glow to get 1hp, while higher tuned versions will give more but this is a good general baseline for engine size/ power rating. So divide the recommended engine size by 35 to get the hp for the model. Then multiply it by 746 (as given above) to get watts.
Now you are in the area where Painless360's videos can start to help. Start looking at the model type, prop size etc while following his advice and you should get there okay. Remember that most glow engines operated in a practical range of about 15,000rpm (while smaller engines rev higher & larger ones lower).
A point also worth remembering is that the power delivery of a glow is very different from that of an electric motor. They have very little torque at low rpm, all their power comes in at high revs, while an electric motor is much more linear. I would deal with this by upping the power required a little bit, solely on the basis that you can always throttle back an overpowered model, while the only solution to an underpowered model is to replace the motor.
Of necessity this is very vague but I'm sure that following these rules will get you flying. And I'm certain you will very quickly develop the necessary feel where you can just look at a glow model and say 'that will need an xxx electric power plant'.
Or you can just do as I do. Chuck high powered motor in big models, little motors in little models & medium motors in medium models. With revvy motors (& small diameter, high pitch props) in fast models, and torquey motors (with big props) in donkey models.
Are two different motor brands/model of the same kv rating essentially equal?
Great question! In theory - they should be. In reality the will not provide the same thrust due to the wire used, magnet position and strength etc. If you need to replace a damaged motor on a model try and get exactly the same model.. Hope that helps..
Thanks for replying. I'm planning to build the Anakin Club Racer 6" in which they recommended Xnova 2206/2000kv. I happen to have Cobra 2208/2000kv but I don't know whether I should, since the cobra bell is slightly taller. And on another page, they recommended Cobra 2100kv. Will my setup be significantly slower because of this?
+MZzXzZM I wouldn't expect so, just use all the same brand and type to avoid problems..
Hey my names William, I'm building my 2nd homemade boat and I've gathered much information from your channel but I'm having trouble figuring out the right size prop for a twin motor setup, any advice it appreciated, thanks. Re: 2x rcrunning 4300kv brushless motors with 2x ovonics 3s lipo 2200mh 25c batteries
Sorry but I don't run boats here so not sure about screw choice... best of luck!
@@Painless360 ok, thanks