I really appreciate the comment. I thought I could have done more, so I made a follow up video too to show how to drain oil the more standard way too: ruclips.net/video/lWlkNein0LQ/видео.html Thanks again for spending your valuable time watching my videos!
I dont drive an Audi, I knew everything you told in the video. But I like to watch your work. It is pretty accurate and informative for someone who wants to do his oil change. Good luck with your channel.
Thank you for this video. I changed my oil today for the first time and it seems to have gone well. It's driveable. Video so good even a middle aged woman can follow. 🙂
Jo, I'm really glad my video helped you, that's really why I wanted to make videos like this in the first place, so your comment has made my day! Thanks so much for watching and commenting. Also thanks for subscribing (if you did, and if not, that's ok too).
If you didn't see it, I did a follow up video where I more completely show the extraction and I also compare it to draining oil the more traditional way. Let me know how it goes once you get a chance to use the extractor! ruclips.net/video/lWlkNein0LQ/видео.html
So much easier with the oil extractor. I just got a 2020 A5 2.0, and the oil and filter cost me $63 (0W-30 Castrol + Mann filter). Half the cost of a dealer oil change, and quicker.
Nice! I think 0w-30 is a pain and I believe MY19 and up Audi upped from 502 to 504 standards. Unless you live in a very cold area, next time you could try finding 5w-30 in VW 504 00 standard. It might be easier to find 5 quart jugs in 5w-30. Of course, if you still have a warranty, using whatever the sticker recommends is the safest, but worth your consideration if out of warranty. Thank you again for commenting!
@@mldiy the engine sticker specifies 0W-30 & VW 504 00....5W-30 is definitely more readily available and less costly. The oil I already bought is VW 502/505, and not 504. Ugh. I bought some Pennzoil that meets that spec in the correct weight (for $12 less). I suppose there's probably not much difference between 0W-30 and 5W-30, especially in my climate (western Oregon), but until I know a lot more, I'll stick with the exact spec Audi calls for.
man they really improved the location of the oil filter compared to the 2.0 tfsi i have in my 2008 audi a6. It did have a very lovely location for the oil pan plug, right at the very front, you didnt even have to lift the car up. On that one I changed the oil every 8000km (5k miles)
I think I know what you're talking about! I believe the 2008 A6's used the same EA113 engine as the 2006 Passat 2.0t FSI, which is my project car. My next video is going to be a bunch of general maintenance items for the Passat and the second DIY video I ever uploaded was an oil change for that Passat. Linking that here in case you want to see if it's the same placement for the oil filter housing. ruclips.net/video/VhbeAGOhrts/видео.html Thanks so much for taking the time to comment.
The dealership wanted to charge me $191 for the oil change. So I bought an extractor for 40 bucks, oil was 53, and filter was about 12. Was the easiest oil change I’ve ever done.
Very nice 🙌🙌 Im so glad my video helped. I assume you bought 2 five quart jugs so the next oil change will be even cheaper! In a couple weeks I'm going to change the oil in the a4 via the drain pan just to show how to do that (and maybe prove that the extraction method is better?) Thanks for watching and commenting!
Yes, the Audi/VW forums love to recommend 5w-40. I think the last gen 2.0t used it by default so everyone kind of goes back to it. But that viscosity is within spec so if your car is burning a little oil feel free to switch. Also if your car is higher in miles, you can try a high mileage blend as well. It just has additional additives that help restore aging seals and stuff. Thanks for the comment!
@@theuser9026 I like Castrol Edge Euro spec but I don't see a high mileage version for 5w-40. I see a 10w-40 but I wouldn't go there yet. I say try the regular 5w-40 first and see if it helps your oil burn. Believe it or not Walmart sells Castrol 5w-40 Euro and it's a good price. Good luck!
Hi Hu, you can use it for most engines, but some might have goofy dipstick tubes that don't fit the extractor tube. Generally, I'd only use it for cars where the oil filter housing is at the top of the engine just because it saves the step of jacking up the car (and properly prepping with jackstands, etc). But if you have to go underneath for the oil filter anyway, then extracting isn't really saving time. I hope that makes sense and helps!
I wouldn't use an oil extractor as it does not suck all the oil out. It will leave about a pint of dirty oil at the bottom of the sump together with the sludge. Then you put new oil in which will mix with the old oily sludge and will spread it around your engine causing more wear. Best to do the oil change the old fashioned way, via the sump plug, and don't forget to put a new plug in lol.
@@jameshenderson5385 Someone else left this comment. He shared that in a new video, he extracted as much oil as he could using this method, then went thru the trouble of draining whatever was remaining via the drain plug. This allowed for an additional 5oz (less than 1/4 quart) of extraction via the drain. Also, there's still oil in the block and head, so regardless some old oil will still be mixed in with the new oil. But if your preference is to jack up the car and do it the other way then I say get those extra few ounces and peace of mind. Cheers!
It depends on how you drive, for example, short city drives fall under "heavy load" interval recommendations but if a lot of your 10k miles is highway miles, than it might be fine. I do way more city miles than highway, so I personally lean more toward 5,000 miles. My philosophy for oil changes is: too many oil changes aren't bad for your car but too few oil changes could be. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Yes, the car should display "max oil level" or "reduce oil level". But if that warning isn't on and you only poured like half a quart extra in, you are probably alright and within tolerance levels to not cause issues.
Appreciate you sharing your experiences! From what I know 5w-40 is a totally valid oil weight and you sound like you have a great use case for it. Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment.
It is very handy but the extractor will still leave dirty oil in your sump no matter how much you try and suck out!. When you pour new oil in the engine you are just mixing the dirty oil left in the sump which is not good for your engine.
James, appreciate your comments. I actually just filmed changing the oil on the A4 via the drain plug. I extracted the oil beforehand just to prove out how much oil is left in the pan. It was only about 5oz, so way less than a quarter of a quart. So while true that there is some oil left, there's also still oil in the block and head, so old oil gets mixed in with the new no matter what. I'm personally okay with the amount that the extractor doesn't get. That video will be out in 3-4 weeks, I hope you'll consider subscribing to catch that. Thanks again for your comment and for taking the time to watch my video!
What is not clear, and why I am here, how long do you have to pump before the oil starts to drain? I bought one of these extractors after watching your video but it does not appear to be working. Certainly a "few pumps" is hyperbole.
The extractor works by sucking the air out of the container, which makes the hose have suction. Check to make sure the pressure valve is actually closed and the cap/rubber stops are all sealed well. If you aren't getting vacuum, the extractor will never suck. Easy to test. Pump and put your finger at the end of the hose. If you can't feel suction, you set up the extractor wrong or it is broken. If there is suction and no oil is getting pulled up, make sure you aren't bottoming out the hose on the pan. Pull it up a little and get the flow going first to get the syphoning effect started. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching and supporting the channel, happy to answer any follow ups.
Hi Ali, for 2017, the BYMC Quattro 2.0t has a VW502/505 standard. The 2.0L "ultra" base model did use a 0w-20 on VW508 standard. static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2016/MC-10127957-9999.pdf Let me see if I can clarify in the description. I appreciate the comment.
The 2.0 Ultra non-turbo (aka b-cycle) uses 509 00 specification oil. That's also accordingly 0W-20 if I'm not mistaken. When you lift the hood of the car, there will be a sticker that states what oil to use. For the B9 A4 Quattro tubrocharged I4, the specification is VW 502 00 or 504 00. Some newer models such as the "B9.5" may solely specify use of the 504 spec. It's also worth noting that 5W-40 may also be found with VW 502 00 spec, not just 5W-30.
Thanks, Allen. Your instructions and detail were flawless. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge. 🔧
I really appreciate the comment. I thought I could have done more, so I made a follow up video too to show how to drain oil the more standard way too: ruclips.net/video/lWlkNein0LQ/видео.html Thanks again for spending your valuable time watching my videos!
I dont drive an Audi, I knew everything you told in the video. But I like to watch your work.
It is pretty accurate and informative for someone who wants to do his oil change.
Good luck with your channel.
I really appreciate the kind words and endorsement! Thank you for taking the time to comment too.
Thank you for this video. I changed my oil today for the first time and it seems to have gone well. It's driveable. Video so good even a middle aged woman can follow. 🙂
Jo, I'm really glad my video helped you, that's really why I wanted to make videos like this in the first place, so your comment has made my day! Thanks so much for watching and commenting. Also thanks for subscribing (if you did, and if not, that's ok too).
Great to the point video..I have aA4 i picked my extractor last week i'll give a try ..Thanks for sharing!!
If you didn't see it, I did a follow up video where I more completely show the extraction and I also compare it to draining oil the more traditional way. Let me know how it goes once you get a chance to use the extractor! ruclips.net/video/lWlkNein0LQ/видео.html
Nice and precise, thank you
Thanks so much for taking the time to comment and (if you haven't already) for liking and subscribing. The support would be much appreciated!
So much easier with the oil extractor. I just got a 2020 A5 2.0, and the oil and filter cost me $63 (0W-30 Castrol + Mann filter). Half the cost of a dealer oil change, and quicker.
Nice! I think 0w-30 is a pain and I believe MY19 and up Audi upped from 502 to 504 standards. Unless you live in a very cold area, next time you could try finding 5w-30 in VW 504 00 standard. It might be easier to find 5 quart jugs in 5w-30. Of course, if you still have a warranty, using whatever the sticker recommends is the safest, but worth your consideration if out of warranty. Thank you again for commenting!
@@mldiy the engine sticker specifies 0W-30 & VW 504 00....5W-30 is definitely more readily available and less costly. The oil I already bought is VW 502/505, and not 504. Ugh. I bought some Pennzoil that meets that spec in the correct weight (for $12 less). I suppose there's probably not much difference between 0W-30 and 5W-30, especially in my climate (western Oregon), but until I know a lot more, I'll stick with the exact spec Audi calls for.
40 dollars for tools and oil? Magnificent!
man they really improved the location of the oil filter compared to the 2.0 tfsi i have in my 2008 audi a6.
It did have a very lovely location for the oil pan plug, right at the very front, you didnt even have to lift the car up. On that one I changed the oil every 8000km (5k miles)
I think I know what you're talking about! I believe the 2008 A6's used the same EA113 engine as the 2006 Passat 2.0t FSI, which is my project car. My next video is going to be a bunch of general maintenance items for the Passat and the second DIY video I ever uploaded was an oil change for that Passat. Linking that here in case you want to see if it's the same placement for the oil filter housing. ruclips.net/video/VhbeAGOhrts/видео.html Thanks so much for taking the time to comment.
@@mldiy seems different, it was quite deep inside, and i stand corrected it was a 2007 2.0t a6c6
The dealership wanted to charge me $191 for the oil change. So I bought an extractor for 40 bucks, oil was 53, and filter was about 12. Was the easiest oil change I’ve ever done.
Very nice 🙌🙌 Im so glad my video helped. I assume you bought 2 five quart jugs so the next oil change will be even cheaper! In a couple weeks I'm going to change the oil in the a4 via the drain pan just to show how to do that (and maybe prove that the extraction method is better?) Thanks for watching and commenting!
I was told to start using the higher viscosity 5w-40. Burns slower. Thank you for the vid
Yes, the Audi/VW forums love to recommend 5w-40. I think the last gen 2.0t used it by default so everyone kind of goes back to it. But that viscosity is within spec so if your car is burning a little oil feel free to switch. Also if your car is higher in miles, you can try a high mileage blend as well. It just has additional additives that help restore aging seals and stuff. Thanks for the comment!
@@mldiy oh wow I didn’t think of that or know of it. What’s the best high mileage blend for the b9 a4? I have just hit 100k on my 2017
@@theuser9026 I like Castrol Edge Euro spec but I don't see a high mileage version for 5w-40. I see a 10w-40 but I wouldn't go there yet. I say try the regular 5w-40 first and see if it helps your oil burn. Believe it or not Walmart sells Castrol 5w-40 Euro and it's a good price. Good luck!
I live in the UK and I was told by the Audi service centre to use 0w20 which is better for the 2ltr TFSi engine.
Thanks for the helpful video
My pleasure! Thanks so much for watching and taking the time to comment.
Can you use the extractor pump for an oil change with pretty much any make or is it not recommended for some engines?
Hi Hu, you can use it for most engines, but some might have goofy dipstick tubes that don't fit the extractor tube. Generally, I'd only use it for cars where the oil filter housing is at the top of the engine just because it saves the step of jacking up the car (and properly prepping with jackstands, etc). But if you have to go underneath for the oil filter anyway, then extracting isn't really saving time. I hope that makes sense and helps!
I wouldn't use an oil extractor as it does not suck all the oil out. It will leave about a pint of dirty oil at the bottom of the sump together with the sludge. Then you put new oil in which will mix with the old oily sludge and will spread it around your engine causing more wear. Best to do the oil change the old fashioned way, via the sump plug, and don't forget to put a new plug in lol.
@@jameshenderson5385 Someone else left this comment. He shared that in a new video, he extracted as much oil as he could using this method, then went thru the trouble of draining whatever was remaining via the drain plug. This allowed for an additional 5oz (less than 1/4 quart) of extraction via the drain. Also, there's still oil in the block and head, so regardless some old oil will still be mixed in with the new oil. But if your preference is to jack up the car and do it the other way then I say get those extra few ounces and peace of mind. Cheers!
Thank you so much. My mechanic charges $200 for oil change. I now do it myself. For A4, I do it every 10,000 miles. Is this good?
It depends on how you drive, for example, short city drives fall under "heavy load" interval recommendations but if a lot of your 10k miles is highway miles, than it might be fine. I do way more city miles than highway, so I personally lean more toward 5,000 miles. My philosophy for oil changes is: too many oil changes aren't bad for your car but too few oil changes could be. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Are there any indicators to suggest you over filled your oil?
Yes, the car should display "max oil level" or "reduce oil level". But if that warning isn't on and you only poured like half a quart extra in, you are probably alright and within tolerance levels to not cause issues.
I change my oil after 10k km ( 6300 miles) hot weather ( around 32-35 C) in asian. I’m using 5w40 mannol i could smoother and less hotter then 5w30
Appreciate you sharing your experiences! From what I know 5w-40 is a totally valid oil weight and you sound like you have a great use case for it. Thank you for watching and taking the time to comment.
It is very handy but the extractor will still leave dirty oil in your sump no matter how much you try and suck out!. When you pour new oil in the engine you are just mixing the dirty oil left in the sump which is not good for your engine.
James, appreciate your comments. I actually just filmed changing the oil on the A4 via the drain plug. I extracted the oil beforehand just to prove out how much oil is left in the pan. It was only about 5oz, so way less than a quarter of a quart. So while true that there is some oil left, there's also still oil in the block and head, so old oil gets mixed in with the new no matter what. I'm personally okay with the amount that the extractor doesn't get. That video will be out in 3-4 weeks, I hope you'll consider subscribing to catch that. Thanks again for your comment and for taking the time to watch my video!
I change the oil every year regardless of the milage. Normally I only travel about 6000K per year lol.
What is not clear, and why I am here, how long do you have to pump before the oil starts to drain? I bought one of these extractors after watching your video but it does not appear to be working. Certainly a "few pumps" is hyperbole.
The extractor works by sucking the air out of the container, which makes the hose have suction. Check to make sure the pressure valve is actually closed and the cap/rubber stops are all sealed well. If you aren't getting vacuum, the extractor will never suck. Easy to test. Pump and put your finger at the end of the hose. If you can't feel suction, you set up the extractor wrong or it is broken. If there is suction and no oil is getting pulled up, make sure you aren't bottoming out the hose on the pan. Pull it up a little and get the flow going first to get the syphoning effect started. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching and supporting the channel, happy to answer any follow ups.
My friend, the engine oil you use is not suitable for your vehicle.
Must be specification 0w20 VW508 00 509 00 ..
Hi Ali, for 2017, the BYMC Quattro 2.0t has a VW502/505 standard. The 2.0L "ultra" base model did use a 0w-20 on VW508 standard. static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2016/MC-10127957-9999.pdf
Let me see if I can clarify in the description. I appreciate the comment.
The 2.0 Ultra non-turbo (aka b-cycle) uses 509 00 specification oil. That's also accordingly 0W-20 if I'm not mistaken. When you lift the hood of the car, there will be a sticker that states what oil to use. For the B9 A4 Quattro tubrocharged I4, the specification is VW 502 00 or 504 00. Some newer models such as the "B9.5" may solely specify use of the 504 spec. It's also worth noting that 5W-40 may also be found with VW 502 00 spec, not just 5W-30.