This is a wonderful video. I just completed resealing a F115XB. The tilt piston is a little different than the one in the video. It is threaded on and requires OST-0003 or OST-0003B tool in addition to the OST-0022 for the caps. The F115XB has four balls, spring, plunger and pin in the tilt piston. The inside ball is retained by a pin. Check Yamaha exploded view.
Hi, grate video, i have changed the outer lip seal and put i back together as you descibed in the video, but now i can lift up the motor when it is the down posisjon, is there air in the system or did i do something wrong during assembeling? What is the correct bleading prosedure? Thanks from Norway
If one of the ball bearings slipped out of position during assembly it can cause the problem you describe. Trapped air in the cylinder can also cause similar problem. I would check fluid levels, add fluid if necessary. Once you have verified that the unit has sufficient fluid, test again. If the problem continues, I would disassemble and inspect the bearings.
Which direction is the free balling bearing suppose to face. Taking on the flying up in reverse problem this weekend. Thank you for the video. Very helpful.
Greatly video; some fixes are DIY and this one is not for me; very informative; my relay switch only clicks when powered but the trim motor will engage and power the piston when I tap the piston housing with a rubber mallet; In this a seal problem or motor problem? Thanks in advance.
Sadly they do not. All seals, o-rings etc have to be pulled individually. That said, there are some Yamaha dealer parts desks that will know what to pull immediately just by giving them a model number. I will post a complete parts list with OEM part numbers asap.
my F90 trim is getting stuck right when it switches from trim to tilt ( the part where it speeds up ) and sometimes it will go up and sometimes it wont, its acting like its getting stuck. ive replaced the electric motor on it already but that didn't seem to help any
The trim motor is usually not the cause for this type of problem. You will likely need to take the unit apart, clean out the old fluid, clean the internal parts and replace seals and o-rings. What you are describing is common for a unit the has lost some fluid, or has some debris hanging out where it shouldn't and causing the unit to not be able to build pressure and hold pressure reliably.
Your video is well done. Walked and talked through the process so that most folks who've been swinging wrenches for any length of time should be able to figure it out... That being said, Ive got a 1999 Yamaha F100 that must have an internal leak in their PTT cylinder... It has no sign of exterior fuid loss... My boat is at the marina, so I'm not sure what size wrench to purchase from your website... Would you know off hand what size I'd need to purchase? Thanks in advance, Norm M.
Hey Norm, the wrench for the F100 would be OST-0022, 47mm spanner. It fits both the outer and inner caps. I have seen many of these cylinders over the years which have zero external/visible leakage, but the inner seals are damaged and causing the cylinder to leak down. One way or another your ptt unit sounds like it needs a look at the internals.
My 2010 Yamaha 70 2 stroke will not stay fully tilted in the up position. Overnite it will drop into the water about halfway. Otherwise, trim and tilt work fine. Can you diagnose the issue?
If there is no evidence of external leak/bad seals etc, it's high proabability that the internal seals on the inner cylinder are failing. First thing I'd do is verify that the unit has adequate fluid levels, and check that the manual release screw is seated/in all the way. If unit continues to leak down and there is no sign of external damage to the seals, then really the only choice is to have a look at the inside. I have repaired many units with zero evidence of external leakage that ended up having bad seals on the inner cylinder. There is a chance that debris can be lodged in one of the check valves in the unit, causing leakdown, but this is much less common than finding damaged seals, especially if you find that the fluid is super clean when you open the unit up.
Hello again, you never replied to me. I see that you called the top seal a wiper seal, that's the one that looks like its falling apart on my 80hp yammy. where rod goes in and out from it.Even if l only replace this seal, Do l have to take the trim unit off the boat and do exactly the same as you have done, just for that wiper seal. It seems ridiculous the amount of work, just for that top seal to be replaced.
Hey, sorry for the lack of response. This particular model is consistently most labor intensive of all the hydraulics that I work on. If the wiper is damaged, it will not cause hydraulic failure by itself. If your unit has adequate fluid levels and is not performing, movement is slow to go up or slow tp go down or intermittent movements up or down, then the probability is very high that the internal seals are damaged, and they will require removal and replacement. Technically the unit can be taken apart without removing the lower mounting pin to release the entire housing, but this method is not my preferred.
@@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631 Thankyou, i have learned now that the wiper seal,also called dust seal, is for just that keeping dust,crap out and that ,the inner seals keeps the hydraulic fluid in. Mine works normal anyway. What do you think of this ,perhaps crazy idea anyway, l could cheat a bit, and buy a new wiper seal, put a bit of masking tape on the rod cut it open,the wiper seal ,place it in place.fill in a minute amount of epoxy, just to rejoin the seal as one whole piece again. Probably only a gap of 1mm to fill. take tape away. Could this work?its only a dust seal after all.
The only Evinrude PTT's that I've worked on are 3 cylinder (2 trim, 1 tilt) found on the V4 and V6 models on older 2 strokes and also found on mid range hp Etec. The 3 cyl units are literally identical to the millimeter to the Showa units used by Yamaha, Suzuki and Honda. I've used Yamaha seals on Evinrude ptt before. So, if you're working on the 3 cylinder Evinrude ptt, yes, I've worked on them forever. Unfortunately I have zero experience on the other models
![Repair Trim Yamaha Outboard 100HP (DIY) [4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/-TnHraszQOE/mqdefault.jpg)
This is a wonderful video. I just completed resealing a F115XB. The tilt piston is a little different than the one in the video. It is threaded on and requires OST-0003 or OST-0003B tool in addition to the OST-0022 for the caps. The F115XB has four balls, spring, plunger and pin in the tilt piston. The inside ball is retained by a pin. Check Yamaha exploded view.
Thank you for your video, always very clear in its explanations. Greetings from Sicily
All good man, thanks very much for watching us!
Hi, grate video, i have changed the outer lip seal and put i back together as you descibed in the video, but now i can lift up the motor when it is the down posisjon, is there air in the system or did i do something wrong during assembeling? What is the correct bleading prosedure?
Thanks from Norway
If one of the ball bearings slipped out of position during assembly it can cause the problem you describe. Trapped air in the cylinder can also cause similar problem. I would check fluid levels, add fluid if necessary. Once you have verified that the unit has sufficient fluid, test again. If the problem continues, I would disassemble and inspect the bearings.
Which direction is the free balling bearing suppose to face. Taking on the flying up in reverse problem this weekend. Thank you for the video. Very helpful.
Email me at tyler@outboardst.com or call me tomorrow at 843-607-1973 I have a couple questions and should be able to help a bit
Greatly video; some fixes are DIY and this one is not for me; very informative; my relay switch only clicks when powered but the trim motor will engage and power the piston when I tap the piston housing with a rubber mallet;
In this a seal problem or motor problem?
Thanks in advance.
Very sorry for the late reply: almost 100% the trim motor is failing
Interesting video. Does Yamaha sell a service kit with all the o-rings and seals etc?
Sadly they do not. All seals, o-rings etc have to be pulled individually. That said, there are some Yamaha dealer parts desks that will know what to pull immediately just by giving them a model number. I will post a complete parts list with OEM part numbers asap.
That would be excellent. Cheers@@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631
my F90 trim is getting stuck right when it switches from trim to tilt ( the part where it speeds up ) and sometimes it will go up and sometimes it wont, its acting like its getting stuck. ive replaced the electric motor on it already but that didn't seem to help any
The trim motor is usually not the cause for this type of problem. You will likely need to take the unit apart, clean out the old fluid, clean the internal parts and replace seals and o-rings. What you are describing is common for a unit the has lost some fluid, or has some debris hanging out where it shouldn't and causing the unit to not be able to build pressure and hold pressure reliably.
@@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631 thanks for the reply 👍
Your video is well done. Walked and talked through the process so that most folks who've been swinging wrenches for any length of time should be able to figure it out... That being said, Ive got a 1999 Yamaha F100 that must have an internal leak in their PTT cylinder... It has no sign of exterior fuid loss... My boat is at the marina, so I'm not sure what size wrench to purchase from your website... Would you know off hand what size I'd need to purchase? Thanks in advance, Norm M.
Hey Norm, the wrench for the F100 would be OST-0022, 47mm spanner. It fits both the outer and inner caps. I have seen many of these cylinders over the years which have zero external/visible leakage, but the inner seals are damaged and causing the cylinder to leak down. One way or another your ptt unit sounds like it needs a look at the internals.
My 2010 Yamaha 70 2 stroke will not stay fully tilted in the up position. Overnite it will drop into the water about halfway. Otherwise, trim and tilt work fine. Can you diagnose the issue?
If there is no evidence of external leak/bad seals etc, it's high proabability that the internal seals on the inner cylinder are failing. First thing I'd do is verify that the unit has adequate fluid levels, and check that the manual release screw is seated/in all the way. If unit continues to leak down and there is no sign of external damage to the seals, then really the only choice is to have a look at the inside. I have repaired many units with zero evidence of external leakage that ended up having bad seals on the inner cylinder. There is a chance that debris can be lodged in one of the check valves in the unit, causing leakdown, but this is much less common than finding damaged seals, especially if you find that the fluid is super clean when you open the unit up.
Thank you for the extremely comprehensive answer! @@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631
where did you buy the seals from and was it in a kit?
Is this a seal kit or brought individually?
Thanks. Very informative
Hello again, you never replied to me. I see that you called the top seal a wiper seal, that's the one that looks like its falling apart on my 80hp yammy. where rod goes in and out from it.Even if l only replace this seal, Do l have to take the trim unit off the boat and do exactly the same as you have done, just for that wiper seal. It seems ridiculous the amount of work, just for that top seal to be replaced.
Hey, sorry for the lack of response. This particular model is consistently most labor intensive of all the hydraulics that I work on. If the wiper is damaged, it will not cause hydraulic failure by itself. If your unit has adequate fluid levels and is not performing, movement is slow to go up or slow tp go down or intermittent movements up or down, then the probability is very high that the internal seals are damaged, and they will require removal and replacement. Technically the unit can be taken apart without removing the lower mounting pin to release the entire housing, but this method is not my preferred.
@@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631 Thankyou, i have learned now that the wiper seal,also called dust seal, is for just that keeping dust,crap out and that ,the inner seals keeps the hydraulic fluid in. Mine works normal anyway. What do you think of this ,perhaps crazy idea anyway, l could cheat a bit, and buy a new wiper seal, put a bit of masking tape on the rod cut it open,the wiper seal ,place it in place.fill in a minute amount of epoxy, just to rejoin the seal as one whole piece again. Probably only a gap of 1mm to fill. take tape away. Could this work?its only a dust seal after all.
Do have any experience with Evinrude tilt and trim units?
The only Evinrude PTT's that I've worked on are 3 cylinder (2 trim, 1 tilt) found on the V4 and V6 models on older 2 strokes and also found on mid range hp Etec. The 3 cyl units are literally identical to the millimeter to the Showa units used by Yamaha, Suzuki and Honda. I've used Yamaha seals on Evinrude ptt before. So, if you're working on the 3 cylinder Evinrude ptt, yes, I've worked on them forever. Unfortunately I have zero experience on the other models
Muchas gracias por el video fue de gran ayuda
De nada, espero que todo se fue bien con el arreglamiento
Merci pour ta vidéo cela m as bien servis pour faire le mien
Спасибо из Москвы ,