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Learning to Use a Lathe, Part 2: Turning Steel Down to Size
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- Опубликовано: 9 авг 2018
- Part 2 of learning to use a lathe, finally turning some steel! I shower my hands with a few hot, sharp shavings, and we turn a chunk of scrap steel down to a shiny, very precise size. I wish i remember what that size was, but it LOOKED very good, and that's the important part ;)
isn't it? RIGHT?!?!
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1818 Milton Ave STE 100 #1973
Janesville, WI 53545-9998
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Music: "Quirky Dog" by Kevin MacLeod. incompetech.com/
#machining #Paulsgarage #lathe
You can BUILD YOUR OWN lathe! here's how: ruclips.net/video/b0KpGtnaymo/видео.html
Similar Lathe: amzn.to/3WFuF6y
Not exactly the same. The one in the video is from Harbor Freight, but i've heard the Vevor one works well for the price from a couple people now
This video was really interesting to me, at just a great level of detail. Thank you to all three of you for putting this out for us to see! When I get home (I am travelling right now) I am going to try printing and then casting Chirpy's Gingery lathe parts. Thanks Paul for pointing them out and thanks to Chirpy's for creating and posting them!
Your enthusiasm there was amazing! LOL! Hard to have fun when you’re getting so much information...
I see a huge difference between channels like Joe Pie and Paul's Garage. But, being a beginner, I get good content from both. Thanks for sharing. To me its like the difference between Bad Chad and Foose. Foose is so accomplished that he is almost demotivating to a beginner.
This is a great learning hobby Lathe. I had started a series on my channel something like " Adventures in being a hobby machinist "or something like that with a couple of tips. Im proud of you always learning a new skill is always fun.
The perfect chip is a "6" or a "9" looking chip FYI (p.s. I rarely get that LOL) but that is the goal. Kinda like welding the stack of dimes....I rarely get but I get a functional machined part as well as a functional strong weld.
You get more of the beauty in blue at the in your videos and your subs will skyrocket!
thats just creepy dude, creepy....
Good information
I hope that toilet roll isn't going back into the bathroom. It collected some metal shavings and someone could get a pain in the butt.
Good lathing, soon you'll be a great lather!
I will be in a lather, if folks don't start calling it turning
Good video, thanks
great video.....
Ok Paul, machinist everywhere-are going to jump up and down and you might get some hate mail...but here goes.
So I am working on my homemade lathe too. Even tho I have other lathes. The lathe you used in this video will set you back $500 plus’s tooling ect. As a kind of shortcut I use my $120 harbor freight wood lathe with a $85 wood lathe chuck to do a lot of smoothing and polishing work on parts I.e. 3D printed parts. Files, rasp, and sand paper make great ways to take work down and get things ready to use. Granted it’s not the most accurate method. But with a few inventive techniques, I can get mirror polish on parts that I’m ready to ram up and cast. And with this setup I can hold work in the chuck, or use a mandrill, even turn between centers with a lathe dog. Plus with some practice accuracy becomes a pretty tight tolerance for these things. The parts you are going to cast in aluminum are going to need to be bigger to allow for shrinkage, and they will need to be turned after or the accuracy isn’t that extremely important to begin with.
Thanks for the videos, we all enjoy.
What about height of the cutter relative to center of the work?
What RPMs are you running that on? I'm trying to learn to turn 3/4" diameter Damascus, copper, brass and titanium rods into beads but can't find info on what RPMs to run them at or whether to use carbide or HSS tools....
Maybe I missed it, but did you tell the viewers what kind of cutter that round one was? I’m just learning so I want to know what things are when I watch these videos.
Are any of you three guys going to be at quad State this year?
"hm, math alright." ... lol
What a cute little lathe. You should've clamped it down or something though. Lathe walking around is never a good sign. 😁
I was looking at those damn it Paul, you're going to make me buy one. Alright you got to deal with the wrath of my woman. Lol I need a doctor's note
How come you’re not using the auto feed for your straight cuts ?
I see you use WD-40 , how does that work as a cutting fluid ?
Doing my best here to pool into those 10 million 😉
I can't wait until I can afford one.
If Paul can do anyone can.
By the way I'm was here 2nd
Can confirm secone
Is there a part 3
Unfortunately no, we didn't have time to record more. But I'm starting a gingery lathe project so there will be more lathe work into the future on this channel
And the Wife says "get an Atlas Lathe" LOL
OMG - what a circus - lol
Turnin is learnin
Indeed
The problem with using oil on carbide. Carbide is hard like glass and brittle. If your carbide gets hot and then you add some kind of oil or coolant it will quench the carbide and make it chip or crack. Either flood coolant or no coolant for carbide. Intermittent is bad.
Interesting, thanks for the tip
I use spray coolant a lot and it works ok. Flood can be a pain in a small shop. He is right though, forget intermittent cooling for carbide.
that guy really spoils his lathe with the fancy 2 ply bathroom tissue
Only the best in this shop!
what model machine are you guys using???
It's a central machinery lathe from harbor freight
So they brought this lathe with them, is it yours now?
I wish! No this is Dan's, but the gingery castings are mine
Made 2 part 2
I would like to buy & rebuild a metal lathe so doing some jumping around. I guess it never crossed my mind but after turning brake rotors and drums about 2-3,000 times over 38 years at shops and dealerships, I guess I know more about these than I thought.
Non-detergent 10-W-40? I don’t thing that is made. You are going with a straight 30 SAE oil. Something used in your air compressors crankcase.
Personally, what is the deal. Over half of the shinnola in oil is man-made additives anyhow. The “W” stands for winter, not weight as it pretends to work & flow thinner when cold than straight oil, but anti-foaming agents, viscosity index improvers, extreme pressure additives, anti-wear additives, additives to change the boiling point, cleaning agents! Unlike WD-40 that has worked its way into the hearts of many, I never use it because it evaporates. I don’t use it unless I am removing or installing a rubber hose. I have 3 oil cans that are 150 years old total but work simple on the bottom that flex’s, making the oil can sound, thus creating “Oil Canning” as a noun. When a door hinge, hood hinge or the wheels on my lawn mower need lube, motor oil it is. Cheap, works and last a long time. The downside is it attracts dirt, dust or other dry air borne particles like pollen. Tallow is a rendered animal fat and used for lubing wooden soldering spoons (Some calls boards, old timers say spoon) but it is used in lipstick and other moisturizer products. Lending the term “Lipstick on a Pig”. But in machining, water-based lubricants are the normal because nothing removes heat like molecules of water. I have no idea what is added to make it a lube! Either way, learning at any age is good, otherwise it’s a boring day. I think inquiring minds what to know. The brake lathe by Ammco, model 3000, was sold by the millions and has been replaced by the $9 Chinese brake rotor that retails for $32.95. Ask you parts store if anyone has refaced a rotor. 0.005” thou is a clean up cut, followed by a 0.002” finish. The reason people say cut rotors warp is it is cut into it at the lathe. What! Yes, hub less rotor are the rule today. A flat cone slides on, followed by a spring and center cone. Another flat cone follows and tightened. Cut the rotor, loosen, hold the cones and shaft still & rotate 180 degrees. Attach a dial indicator on and rotate. You will see 300-600 thousandths (0.3-0.6”) lateral run out. After two months the pads seat and this transfers into the pedal. The adaptors need placed on the machine. Marked with a flat cold chisel to the shaft hub and placed there every time. Add what is needed but cut the face like a one-sided rotor. Do this to all flat adaptor and check for run out. It’s gone. This is called “Qualifying” the lathe.
Have a good day guys.
ASE Master Tech since 78, retired.
"I am Cornholio... I need TP... TP for by lathe-bed" - Bevis
Does anybody know how to pronounce "xynudu"? Rob!... can you give us a clue?
i have absolutely no idea how to pronounce that, but i've heard someone say it like "zin-uh-doo"
1:36 wouldn't be as precise since it's coming at an angle, or am i missing something?
1:47 luckly machinist bro pointed it out
My ADHD wouldn't let me watch a bit more to wait for machinist bro to call out camera man out on his bs.
hey guys wd40 isnt an oil. its a solvent. common mistake though. use something else.
Plunge cutting in unsupported will cause that finish
If you just hit the depth and go you should get less
And you tool looked too low
The guy with the camera seriously has NO idea - his comments are plainly WRONG - just let the far guy speak, at least he's right most of the time. To anyone else checking this video out - be aware that the techniques and comments are 90% INCORRECT. The guy who talks non-stop just makes it up as he goes along - just be careful and watch other videos from Tubalcain, Joe Pieczynski and most others - just not this comedy chanel. OMG - Tools!!
Hey blue shirt. Get some glasses on. That lathe could self destruct at any moment.
What's with all the math here?
I can tell these guys have a lot of knowledge with all the tips and pointers they have, unfortunately I can tell they don't have a lot of experience teaching because of all the tips and pointers they keep throwing at you. There was way to much talking at the beginning. Get the basics, turn it on and start making chips. Doing is the best way to learn. The tips come later.
Soon.... Ill be youtube Certified!