I grew up (55 years in machining) with "Stelite" tools. "Heat the part up till it's red and start cutting" the old timers taught me back in 60's. Weld it hot and start cutting. Finished with all types of tools after straighten of boat shafts etc. Wish I had cameras back in the day before carbide you would see lathes of the 1940s doing awesome work and even to this day.
I'm not a machinest, but have used machine tools and been responsible for purchase of tooling for them as part of my job as the Chief Engineer for a number of maintenance depts, mainly in the food and drink industries. I did quite a bit of research about 30 years ago on what might be the best all round tools and decided on the button and triangle inserts as being the ones that would cover most uses and be cost effective in an envirionment were we could be cutting 304, 316L and hot rolled mild steel within the same day. I still use these same inserts in my home workshop today and have to say that Sandvik have never let me down. Its nice to watch a video with a couple of real machinests, confirm that the choices I made as a total non expert all those years ago, were pretty well the correct ones.
Thanks guys, I've learnt more about insert tooling in the first 14 minutes of this video than I learnt from 4 years of watching youtube machining videos.
This maybe my favorite video you've ever done. Paul is such a nice guy for helping you share this with us. Would have been nice to get a better look at the inserts themselves like maybe some closeup shots so we could see what the chipbreakers looked like but great post John, really enjoyed it and can't wait for part 2.
Paul is an excellent teacher and John, you acted the virtuous student very well, namely with the intermittent chip sweeps :P But seriously, Paul is like machining god.
Thanks guys. I saved this video and refer back to it frequently at work. I shared this with my old machine school instructor and he now shares it with his classes.
As a machining student, thank you! These long videos with thoroughly explained details are incredibly helpful and educative. I definitely commit the typical beginner mistake of taking too light of a cut, haha. It was shocking for me to see cuts that are like 4 times deeper than what I usually limit myself to. Anyways, thanks once again John and Paul, excellent content. Cheers from Spain!
one of the best tutorials i have seen on carbide tooling. now we need a similar one geared toward the lighter home shop lathes. great job looking forward to the next installment
Paul is the very best of dudes !! I love this guys disposition, The way he shares and teaches at the same time is incredible. My lathe is smaller at a 12x36 2hp and sized right for my needs in scale model engine building but the concepts are scalable and the same. I really learned here. Million thanks to you.
Good on everyone who had a hand in making this! If you need SD cards I bought a heap for a vacation that didn't happen, you're welcome to a couple of them.
I like such videos, it shows people who really like what they do and try to get into the details. On the other side I know people who only do what you tell them, and when they're getting older ... they're getting lost because they have no one guiding them anymore.
Thank you John and Paul. I just got done watching this for the first time. Next time will be with a notepad. Your timing is excellent for me, I am expecting my new to me 16x40 in a few weeks and I have had my nose in every catalog that I could find reading up on insert tooling. Also, I noticed a round insert tool holder in the box of parts included with the machine, and I thought that it would be a novel little tool to have, now I am certainly going to take a much closer look at it. Great work and as said by others, I couldn't believe that 90 minutes went by so fast!! R.J.
Started out thinking OMG, and hour and half, this has got to be boring. Turns out, I watched the whole thing, and completely lost track of time. Great Video! I've long been familiar with Mr. DeBolt from his model engines./
In my small machines, I don't use carbide, but HSS. Most of the steels I use are tool steels, with some exception. 1045 , hydraulic cylinder rods, of course hardened, chromed, but I got them for cheap. Watch the speeds, don't let it get too high, keep the feed reasonable, use a junk tool to get rid of the chrome and don't be trying to take .002 or .003 for a finish cut. Leave .010 or more and it works better.
Really nice to see that you both liked Sanvik inserts, when I did my last machine class, it was all Sandvik inserts, the perk of living in Sweden before international shopping and sorting for cheapest was the norm. But I talked to guy working in production recently, they still use all Sandvik, it is still cheaper in the long run since they last much longer then any thing else they have tested
Very informative... didn't think I would make it all the way through, but after a few minutes I knew it would be great. I ran the same model lathe for over a year...made many unique parts. Well done Paul and John.....cheers, PB
As to the comment about carbide manufacturers doing in-house testing, yes they do but often they look for field reps to dod comprehensive field tests to gather more data. Even after a new grade and chipbreaker are intorduced data is gathered. When I sold for Stellram I used to test new inserts in the field in situations that were not suggested.
Talking about the right insert for the lathe, I've been using Sandvik TNMG 222 inserts with my little 7 x 14, and they're some of the only inserts I've found that do a proper chipbreaking on cuts as shallow as that poor little thing tan take. Not everybody has a 20 HP turning center, and with limited horsepower or rigidity, finding inserts that don't beat the crap out of the machine is hard sometimes...
Jim, Can you post a video of that insert breaking chips on your mini lathe. I'm sure a lot of people with those smaller lathes would like to see that. Thanks, Chris
Interesting all the steels I work with. At times it cuts like butter and other times I think I have different material than what’s labeled. One of the issues I’ve ran into is the use of hot knives to cut these larger end drops off can often harden the material making it hard on one end, both, or inconsistent overall which can make machining on a lathe a pain. I have found on the vertical mill I can cut it in any mix of the above without much issue. It’s good to hear what others are doing it only expands the workability.
Great info, just like the aluminum video a while back. I was able to follow along but it would be helpful to have on screen the parameters for each cut like rpm / feed rate / DOC or at least show when one is changed. I'm going to have to get a round insert toolholder.
TBH, I tried to do that and just couldn't keep up. Not a great excuse, but it's something I have never been able to do well when visiting someone else's copy to film/learn
negative tooling can have positive, neutral, or negative rake.. positive tooling can have positive or neutral rake. Seemed like there was some confusion about that right about the start when this was being discussed. The two are related, but also not.
An insert can be neutral or positive depending on the clearance angle. The rake angle can be positive neutral or negative independently of that, but it is compounded by the toolholder angle which can also be positive neutral or negative(can't use a positive angle holder with a negative insert though). It's rake versus clearance.
Guys I have watched hour after hour of you cutting steel n feeding n chipping Fkn awesome man I'm setting a private shop up when I'm back home in Australia I have learned so much tech shit from you thank you so much for your great videos and interesting tips just letting you know how great it is to watch engineers at work. Cheers Phil. Ps I'm an aerospace engineer and can't get enough of this content 🛠😎🇦🇺
Well done, thanks I learned from your video that some cases you may not to break the chip completely if it is flowing out of the way into the chip pan. I used to grind a small radius on the top side just behind the cutting edge to allow the chip to break off into small pieces to avoid the “ birds nest”.
1:17:07 I would beg to differ that a bigger piece will make a huge difference in how much cut you can take on a machine because the torque to turn the part gets greater and greater. Or did he change gears on the lathe so the parts all ran the same SFM?
@bcblob02 That makes sense. When cutting larger pieces, the spindle torque is greater, but the increased radius means higher surface speed for spindle rpms - thus you can likely knock it down a gear, which gives more torque. Although there are probably some non-ideal/parasitic effects that come into play at the extremes.
Once a large part is up to speed, it shouldn't sap too much power from the motor as it'd store the energy like a flywheel. I'd also expect that energy to assist with the pulses of work at the start of an interrupted cut. my lathe has a 4" swing and a 1/4hp motor so I may be talking outta the wrong end. If it's just diameter we're talking about then I definitely am.
Cutting forces are high enough that any "stored energy" is negated. If you are taking a decent cut even on a shaft weighing a ton and you disengage the clutch while in the cut the shaft will stop turning almost instantly. As to the thing about gearing down to increase torque yes that is the case and often is used to correct SFM, but it didn't look like they changed RPM's between materials.
THANKS SO MUCH GUYS, for knowing what you are doing. Machine tools make our world go around, and YOUR KNOWLEDGE and SKILLS make that possible. 'God Bless You BOTH!
Great video. Problem I’ve had taking Huge cuts like that is the material might actually start pushing back into the chuck if you can’t butt it up against the jaws.
That Mr DeBolt, one smart guy. Fascinating video, although I work everyday on one off type jobs I learned a lot. Lots of subjects to think about. I'm going to have to watch this a few times to take it all in. One thing that drives me nuts is that the WW2 EN system of steel types is still in use here in the UK. I have to cross reference all the time.
Great video, highly informative. At 1.14.20, the cranked tool with the round insert is a right hand tool, not left hand as stated. The hand of a tool is determined by looking at it from the cutting(insert) end. Lets say you required a raised feature in the middle of the part using cranked tooling, you would cut the right hand edge of the feature from the end nearest the tail stock with a right hand tool and the left hand side of the feature from the end nearest the chuck using a left hand tool.
Great stuff! I am going to have to watch this a THIRD time to really absorb it. Thanks Paul and John for taking the time to educate us. I am really looking forward to the next segments. All the best.... Fred Ontario, NY
My biggest struggle is parting. Avoiding chatter while parting is also challenging. I have a vfd and larger 13” x 36” and I have to gear it down and run it as slow as I can. My bandsaw hates cutting steel it’s a small 4x6 even with m42 blades the large 4”-5” rounds are unwelcome. I also found its much softer toward the center and it then starts smoothing out and curling up the chips. When I start the chips are more like death slivers.
i need to know the insert you show at 58:10 .....i dont find it anywhere in the sandvik catalogue. it reminds me of a similar chipbreaker design by sandvik which isn´t produced anymore....however iscar heliturns are compareable.....
Thanks for the video. I am mainly cutting 1144 and 4140 with some 6160 added in with M2 HSS, no gear box so feed/speed isn't a quick change. While I am new to the lathe and using a 6" lathe (Atlas/Clausing) with a track record for gib issue's and mine has some heavy wear on them. I have been using HSS because my lathe just doesn't seem to be a fan of carbide tooling. I replaced the lantern style tool holder with a steel QCTP also to try to make it more rigid and I am replacing my cross slide nut next week to remove some of the backlash that I believe may be leading to my issue's as well since the positive rake will want to make it pull into the cut, lathe is bolted down to a heavy wood bench and there is very little flex. After watching this video, and if I am understanding this correctly, I can see some of the issue's I have been causing myself when shaping my HSS which has been grabbing or digging into the cut. I think, again if I am understanding this, I need to put a negative lead angle and a positive rake with a decent radius on my tooling to help where I have weak gibs for roughing and then I will change up to a set for finish passes with a smaller radius/positive rake and play with a neutral to positive lead angle or at least not such a negative lead angle. One other thing that has really helped is I believe where I have been leaving such a small radius on my tooling that it is affecting the finish as well as making it easier for the tooling to want to grab/dig into my work piece. But who knows at this point I could have it all backwards, again I am new to this and wanting a heavier lathe but it's just not in the cards for me at the moment so I am trying to do anything I can to help the lathe and ease the process.
I used to run An american duplicating lathe and we were roughing out 8" x 48" 4140 shafts and we were using kenametal tnmg 542 inserts at .375 radial depth of cut at .032" feed. The machine had a 30 hp motor
I remember some Clausing lathes had variable speed cross feed. It would change automatically as you worked to the center or to the diameter. I don’t know what happened to that series.
Fantastically informative video! What can I do to chip break if I have a small boxford home lathe with only a 1hp motor? I can't take deep cuts with high feeds to break the chips. And as you said I don't want rubbing on my ccmt carbide tips. Any suggestions?
Amazing video indeed, so much great info in one video. I think It would be much better if you mention the full name of the insert, the effective diameter of workpiece and maybe the current consumption of the machine so we have a real indication of and a reference kind video for (tools and materials).
A machinist friend of mine has a 15kW(20hp) and a 20kW(26hp) lathe...The only thing that limits the roughing is the toolholder grip. I've seen it and I can assure you that it's pretty scary when you try to take 20mm diameter at 1400rpm with a blazin fast feedrate out of a 40kg(90 pounds at that point of the process) shaft and you see the freakin toolholder starting to twist out of the toolpost! PS: There are standard ISO carbide grades, but unless you frequent old machine shop auctions it's unlikely you will find one, even though they are quite good. Also the best manual lathes you can get are Bulgarian ZMM's...Really heavy duty machines, that usually go up to 2000rpm's and most machineshops swear by them!
47:50. Man, look at it go, mill scale and everything. 48:50. Watch those chips fly. The only time I got to use a lathe was in college, making a 4340 drive flange on the Baja SAE team. It was a 10EE style machine with a DNGA insert and a CBN tip. It gave us a long stringy chip that ran down into the chip pan, on the verge of giving us a nasty birds nest situation. Earlier this year, the college got rid of their machines to get CNC's, so I'm hoping the lathe and their milling machines come up at an auction.
I grew up (55 years in machining) with "Stelite" tools. "Heat the part up till it's red and start cutting" the old timers taught me back in 60's. Weld it hot and start cutting. Finished with all types of tools after straighten of boat shafts etc. Wish I had cameras back in the day before carbide you would see lathes of the 1940s doing awesome work and even to this day.
I'm not a machinest, but have used machine tools and been responsible for purchase of tooling for them as part of my job as the Chief Engineer for a number of maintenance depts, mainly in the food and drink industries. I did quite a bit of research about 30 years ago on what might be the best all round tools and decided on the button and triangle inserts as being the ones that would cover most uses and be cost effective in an envirionment were we could be cutting 304, 316L and hot rolled mild steel within the same day. I still use these same inserts in my home workshop today and have to say that Sandvik have never let me down. Its nice to watch a video with a couple of real machinests, confirm that the choices I made as a total non expert all those years ago, were pretty well the correct ones.
Thanks guys, I've learnt more about insert tooling in the first 14 minutes of this video than I learnt from 4 years of watching youtube machining videos.
Me too, and been machining stuff since 1960
This maybe my favorite video you've ever done. Paul is such a nice guy for helping you share this with us. Would have been nice to get a better look at the inserts themselves like maybe some closeup shots so we could see what the chipbreakers looked like but great post John, really enjoyed it and can't wait for part 2.
Steve - thanks, and agree - we'll make a better point to do that when we film next time.
Paul is an excellent teacher and John, you acted the virtuous student very well, namely with the intermittent chip sweeps :P
But seriously, Paul is like machining god.
Antonmursid🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🇮🇩🇮🇩🇮🇩🇮🇩🇮🇩✌👌
Just wanted to say thanks. I must have watched this video 20+ times for a reference.
give Paul another episode on drills in the lathe, all types of drills. he's the man!
Thanks guys. I saved this video and refer back to it frequently at work. I shared this with my old machine school instructor and he now shares it with his classes.
I really like how the old boy response to the questions. He don't rush to answer a question. I hope he works the same way
As a machining student, thank you! These long videos with thoroughly explained details are incredibly helpful and educative. I definitely commit the typical beginner mistake of taking too light of a cut, haha. It was shocking for me to see cuts that are like 4 times deeper than what I usually limit myself to.
Anyways, thanks once again John and Paul, excellent content. Cheers from Spain!
one of the best tutorials i have seen on carbide tooling. now we need a similar one geared toward the lighter home shop lathes. great job looking forward to the next installment
Paul is the very best of dudes !! I love this guys disposition, The way he shares and teaches at the same time is incredible. My lathe is smaller at a 12x36 2hp and sized right for my needs in scale model engine building but the concepts are scalable and the same. I really learned here. Million thanks to you.
Good on everyone who had a hand in making this! If you need SD cards I bought a heap for a vacation that didn't happen, you're welcome to a couple of them.
I like such videos, it shows people who really like what they do and try to get into the details.
On the other side I know people who only do what you tell them, and when they're getting older ... they're getting lost because they have no one guiding them anymore.
Wow, so much learned in just one video. Absolutely top notch content. The very reason RUclips was created right here.
Thanks!
There’s something so satisfying about watching a manual machine make chips compared to a CNC.
These types of machining videos are my favorite
Editing in your videos is top notch. Thank you.
Thank you John and Paul. I just got done watching this for the first time. Next time will be with a notepad. Your timing is excellent for me, I am expecting my new to me 16x40 in a few weeks and I have had my nose in every catalog that I could find reading up on insert tooling. Also, I noticed a round insert tool holder in the box of parts included with the machine, and I thought that it would be a novel little tool to have, now I am certainly going to take a much closer look at it. Great work and as said by others, I couldn't believe that 90 minutes went by so fast!! R.J.
I love it when you visit DeBolt
Started out thinking OMG, and hour and half, this has got to be boring. Turns out, I watched the whole thing, and completely lost track of time. Great Video! I've long been familiar with Mr. DeBolt from his model engines./
AWESOME!
Oq
I would love to work with and learn from this guy. We need more people like him in this world.
This video is freaking legendary. I just learned so much. I'll be watching this at least 50 or 60 more times to soak in all the info.
In my small machines, I don't use carbide, but HSS. Most of the steels I use are tool steels, with some exception. 1045 , hydraulic cylinder rods, of course hardened, chromed, but I got them for cheap. Watch the speeds, don't let it get too high, keep the feed reasonable, use a junk tool to get rid of the chrome and don't be trying to take .002 or .003 for a finish cut. Leave .010 or more and it works better.
Really nice to see that you both liked Sanvik inserts, when I did my last machine class, it was all Sandvik inserts, the perk of living in Sweden before international shopping and sorting for cheapest was the norm.
But I talked to guy working in production recently, they still use all Sandvik, it is still cheaper in the long run since they last much longer then any thing else they have tested
Very informative... didn't think I would make it all the way through, but after a few minutes I knew it would be great. I ran the same model lathe for over a year...made many unique parts. Well done Paul and John.....cheers, PB
To really appreciate the ability of this shop and Paul you should have known his dad. A class act. Located near Zanesville, Ohio.
I hope to be a fraction as knowledgeable as this master machinist, one day.
This is a cool video. The clink of metal chips is satisfying in a way that's similar to bullet casings, but not as much work.
This channel is underrated AF
As to the comment about carbide manufacturers doing in-house testing, yes they do but often they look for field reps to dod comprehensive field tests to gather more data. Even after a new grade and chipbreaker are intorduced data is gathered.
When I sold for Stellram I used to test new inserts in the field in situations that were not suggested.
1 word about the educational content in this video: Goldmine!
Thanks Jay!
Awsome, i hope you find time to continue the comparison video, i am super excited to see the stainless.
Talking about the right insert for the lathe, I've been using Sandvik TNMG 222 inserts with my little 7 x 14, and they're some of the only inserts I've found that do a proper chipbreaking on cuts as shallow as that poor little thing tan take. Not everybody has a 20 HP turning center, and with limited horsepower or rigidity, finding inserts that don't beat the crap out of the machine is hard sometimes...
Thanks for the tip on the insert for smaller lathes. Chris
AWESOME! Yea, I can't believe how that "T" style performed!
Jim, Can you post a video of that insert breaking chips on your mini lathe. I'm sure a lot of people with those smaller lathes would like to see that. Thanks, Chris
Interesting all the steels I work with. At times it cuts like butter and other times I think I have different material than what’s labeled. One of the issues I’ve ran into is the use of hot knives to cut these larger end drops off can often harden the material making it hard on one end, both, or inconsistent overall which can make machining on a lathe a pain. I have found on the vertical mill I can cut it in any mix of the above without much issue. It’s good to hear what others are doing it only expands the workability.
Paul has so much knowledge about lates. Very Impressive.
This video wasn't what i expected... but it is amazing the "walk around" knowledge that some people have.
Great info, just like the aluminum video a while back. I was able to follow along but it would be helpful to have on screen the parameters for each cut like rpm / feed rate / DOC or at least show when one is changed. I'm going to have to get a round insert toolholder.
TBH, I tried to do that and just couldn't keep up. Not a great excuse, but it's something I have never been able to do well when visiting someone else's copy to film/learn
negative tooling can have positive, neutral, or negative rake.. positive tooling can have positive or neutral rake. Seemed like there was some confusion about that right about the start when this was being discussed. The two are related, but also not.
An insert can be neutral or positive depending on the clearance angle. The rake angle can be positive neutral or negative independently of that, but it is compounded by the toolholder angle which can also be positive neutral or negative(can't use a positive angle holder with a negative insert though). It's rake versus clearance.
So much knowledge dropped in this video. Thank you so much for sharing!
Guys I have watched hour after hour of you cutting steel n feeding n chipping Fkn awesome man I'm setting a private shop up when I'm back home in Australia I have learned so much tech shit from you thank you so much for your great videos and interesting tips just letting you know how great it is to watch engineers at work. Cheers Phil. Ps I'm an aerospace engineer and can't get enough of this content 🛠😎🇦🇺
Well done, thanks I learned from your video that some cases you may not to break the chip completely if it is flowing out of the way into the chip pan. I used to grind a small radius on the top side just behind the cutting edge to allow the chip to break off into small pieces to avoid the “ birds nest”.
1:17:07 I would beg to differ that a bigger piece will make a huge difference in how much cut you can take on a machine because the torque to turn the part gets greater and greater. Or did he change gears on the lathe so the parts all ran the same SFM?
I thought the same thing Bryan, looked like the same speed.
@bcblob02 That makes sense. When cutting larger pieces, the spindle torque is greater, but the increased radius means higher surface speed for spindle rpms - thus you can likely knock it down a gear, which gives more torque.
Although there are probably some non-ideal/parasitic effects that come into play at the extremes.
Once a large part is up to speed, it shouldn't sap too much power from the motor as it'd store the energy like a flywheel. I'd also expect that energy to assist with the pulses of work at the start of an interrupted cut. my lathe has a 4" swing and a 1/4hp motor so I may be talking outta the wrong end. If it's just diameter we're talking about then I definitely am.
Cutting forces are high enough that any "stored energy" is negated. If you are taking a decent cut even on a shaft weighing a ton and you disengage the clutch while in the cut the shaft will stop turning almost instantly. As to the thing about gearing down to increase torque yes that is the case and often is used to correct SFM, but it didn't look like they changed RPM's between materials.
This is ACE!!!… just got yourself a new subscriber 🇬🇧
THANKS SO MUCH GUYS, for knowing what you are doing. Machine tools make our world go around, and YOUR KNOWLEDGE and SKILLS make that possible.
'God Bless You BOTH!
Planning on turning steel for the first time today ... great timing on the video!! Thanks.
Great video. Problem I’ve had taking Huge cuts like that is the material might actually start pushing back into the chuck if you can’t butt it up against the jaws.
1:06:00 Did you chuck the part off center on purpose to reduce notching on the insert?
What a guy! He'd make a good master for a lucky apprentice.
love when you said .. now thats a great Abom chip
So far so good, I should send you some C275 or some inconel 625 so you can show what a massive difference there is in materials.
I'm great at machining Inconel. In CAM.
@@nyccnc Late to the party, but Incnonnel surface finishes beautifully, but like EN30B, it’s incredibly abusive on inserts and tooling in general
That Mr DeBolt, one smart guy. Fascinating video, although I work everyday on one off type jobs I learned a lot. Lots of subjects to think about. I'm going to have to watch this a few times to take it all in. One thing that drives me nuts is that the WW2 EN system of steel types is still in use here in the UK. I have to cross reference all the time.
Great video, highly informative.
At 1.14.20, the cranked tool with the round insert is a right hand tool, not left hand as stated. The hand of a tool is determined by looking at it from the cutting(insert) end. Lets say you required a raised feature in the middle of the part using cranked tooling, you would cut the right hand edge of the feature from the end nearest the tail stock with a right hand tool and the left hand side of the feature from the end nearest the chuck using a left hand tool.
Great stuff! I am going to have to watch this a THIRD time to really absorb it. Thanks Paul and John for taking the time to educate us. I am really looking forward to the next segments. All the best.... Fred Ontario, NY
This series of your videos is some of my favorite content of yours! I play them over and over to try to make it all part if my thinking.
Thank you!!!
My biggest struggle is parting. Avoiding chatter while parting is also challenging. I have a vfd and larger 13” x 36” and I have to gear it down and run it as slow as I can. My bandsaw hates cutting steel it’s a small 4x6 even with m42 blades the large 4”-5” rounds are unwelcome. I also found its much softer toward the center and it then starts smoothing out and curling up the chips. When I start the chips are more like death slivers.
Great video, thankyou.
I’d love to spend a few months working with that fella, he sure knows his stuff!!
i need to know the insert you show at 58:10 .....i dont find it anywhere in the sandvik catalogue. it reminds me of a similar chipbreaker design by sandvik which isn´t produced anymore....however iscar heliturns are compareable.....
This channel should have more subs.
a 3 jaw chuck with soft jaws will be very quick and easy to use and keep the part in place for heavy fast cutting.
Long video and thought NO WAY will I watch....DAMN...couldn't shut it off...... THANKS.....so much information...awesome
Can someone explain why he said that @ 42:00 that Facing is only half the forces. ? In what way is it halved ?
This was magnificent.... I just want to add another 20 alloys... And... I'll check the playlist...
Super video! Answered a lot of my questions that I had about inserts.
I started watching “1018” and a portal to hades opened in my kitchen…… lol seriously, great video!! Thank you.
Been waiting for this video since the teaser!
:)
These men are a wealth of knowledge!
awesome video! Paul is a wealth of knowledge!
I really dig these kinds of videos. U rock
Thanks!
Hi! I'm looking into taking CNC in school. Thank you for this video! Very informative and professional. Are there any professionals in the chat?
That hour and a half went quick, great video with lots of hands on knowledge. Adding to my favorites, Thanks for all you do👍
Thank you gentlemen for this explanatory video!
You're welcome!
These guys have done awsome job explaining this stuff
Thanks for the video. I am mainly cutting 1144 and 4140 with some 6160 added in with M2 HSS, no gear box so feed/speed isn't a quick change. While I am new to the lathe and using a 6" lathe (Atlas/Clausing) with a track record for gib issue's and mine has some heavy wear on them. I have been using HSS because my lathe just doesn't seem to be a fan of carbide tooling. I replaced the lantern style tool holder with a steel QCTP also to try to make it more rigid and I am replacing my cross slide nut next week to remove some of the backlash that I believe may be leading to my issue's as well since the positive rake will want to make it pull into the cut, lathe is bolted down to a heavy wood bench and there is very little flex.
After watching this video, and if I am understanding this correctly, I can see some of the issue's I have been causing myself when shaping my HSS which has been grabbing or digging into the cut. I think, again if I am understanding this, I need to put a negative lead angle and a positive rake with a decent radius on my tooling to help where I have weak gibs for roughing and then I will change up to a set for finish passes with a smaller radius/positive rake and play with a neutral to positive lead angle or at least not such a negative lead angle.
One other thing that has really helped is I believe where I have been leaving such a small radius on my tooling that it is affecting the finish as well as making it easier for the tooling to want to grab/dig into my work piece.
But who knows at this point I could have it all backwards, again I am new to this and wanting a heavier lathe but it's just not in the cards for me at the moment so I am trying to do anything I can to help the lathe and ease the process.
Watched every minute!!! He don't need no stinkin cutting oil.... BAD A$$, One of the best vids out here on the Tube!
This guy is awesome, like a father. Love it 😊
I wish this guy was my next door neighbor.
Thank you! I need to watch this about 5 more times.
You would think that 1 1/2 hours would be too boring to get through, but I'm with you. This is a must re-watch.
I used to run An american duplicating lathe and we were roughing out 8" x 48" 4140 shafts and we were using kenametal tnmg 542 inserts at .375 radial depth of cut at .032" feed. The machine had a 30 hp motor
1:08:20 Look at the cutting point, you can actually see the glow of the chips heating up.
This is so informative, thank you. Fun to watch.
Awesome just pointed out how much i dont know explained alot of issues that i encounter...thanks paul you are good at what you do
Namasthe sir.. which turning insert is good for turning of INVAR 36 alloy forged bar. Please guide me.
@ 55:50 I was just thinking that! And @ 58:00 it's Adam's favorite insert (as I can recall from this video's) the CNMG
What are the inserts ? Cnmm or cnmg dnmm or dnmg or heavy rhoughing inserts?
wow what an amazing video! thanks guys i took alot from this.
Really interesting the one that really surprised me was the radius tool I wouldn’t have thought to use that like that
Is it normal for the insert tips to glow and sparks flying when turning? Also should you be using coolant when using inserts?
Do you have a video of taking square stock and turn into round stock with a drive dog
Awesome! Showing people you can push a lathe instead of talking forever like many do.
I remember some Clausing lathes had variable speed cross feed. It would change automatically as you worked to the center or to the diameter. I don’t know what happened to that series.
Fantastically informative video! What can I do to chip break if I have a small boxford home lathe with only a 1hp motor? I can't take deep cuts with high feeds to break the chips. And as you said I don't want rubbing on my ccmt carbide tips. Any suggestions?
Wealth of knowledge here. Thanks Paul and John.
Agree 100% on using a 4 jaw over a 3 jaw , especially on heavy duty cuts.
1 hour 30 minute video... yes!!
Great video! Paul is so knowledgeable! Thank you John for creating this content.
Amazing video indeed, so much great info in one video.
I think It would be much better if you mention the full name of the insert, the effective diameter of workpiece and maybe the current consumption of the machine so we have a real indication of and a reference kind video for (tools and materials).
Ten minutes of content packed into an hour and a half
I only work with super alloys and Duplex as well as super Duplex and some of those alloys it is impossible to get Brack chips.
Grate video
Do you have one of these using a dog driver taking square stock and turning into round stock or into a part? 😊
A machinist friend of mine has a 15kW(20hp) and a 20kW(26hp) lathe...The only thing that limits the roughing is the toolholder grip. I've seen it and I can assure you that it's pretty scary when you try to take 20mm diameter at 1400rpm with a blazin fast feedrate out of a 40kg(90 pounds at that point of the process) shaft and you see the freakin toolholder starting to twist out of the toolpost!
PS: There are standard ISO carbide grades, but unless you frequent old machine shop auctions it's unlikely you will find one, even though they are quite good. Also the best manual lathes you can get are Bulgarian ZMM's...Really heavy duty machines, that usually go up to 2000rpm's and most machineshops swear by them!
47:50. Man, look at it go, mill scale and everything.
48:50. Watch those chips fly.
The only time I got to use a lathe was in college, making a 4340 drive flange on the Baja SAE team. It was a 10EE style machine with a DNGA insert and a CBN tip.
It gave us a long stringy chip that ran down into the chip pan, on the verge of giving us a nasty birds nest situation.
Earlier this year, the college got rid of their machines to get CNC's, so I'm hoping the lathe and their milling machines come up at an auction.