Wow, that’s one of the easiest heater cores to replace! Some other cars would be a nightmare. When using the screw type clamps, I would have to retighten them from time to time.
@@SpotBloodrain my '08 Nitro was very similar although, I didn't have to pull the seats. Also, the dash only had to be pulled back far enough to wrangle the hvac out. I dropped the steering column down, but left the shaft connected. The leaking coolant disolved the rubber seals of the blend doors. I cut new ones from some rubber and used contact cement to glue them on. Hopefully the glue holds.
My 2000 S10 is the worse of the worst, by the book 📖 it takes 11 hours. You have to take out the seats and the dash. But, someone discovered to tilt the dashboard. After two heater cores in 11 years, I quit! I ran a looped hose on my water pump.
4:47 "As they say, 'Out with the old - in with the new!'" Nice nod to Mr ChrisFix. I've wished for a long time that he'd get an OBS Chevy truck and show me how to fix mine. But that's why I watch your videos. Thank you Mr 1ROAD!
Great job. Remember those stock hose clamps are made to expand with the heat and cool cycle. If you use them on plastic that heat's up the plastic can crack.
@@1RoadGarage I remember seeing another youtube video somewhere explain that if you replace a spring clamp with a screw clamp, the heat cycles will eventually loosen up the screw and cause a leak over time. So maybe replace it with a new spring clamp when you get a chance. Makes sense to me
Actually, if you double clamp the hose the coolant leak would likely be gone. Just take some sandpaper to the original heater core inlet and outlet heater core tubes and clean up the heater core tubes and reattach the heater core hoses. The original heater core only has a single raised ridge for each inlet / outlet heater tube whereas the new heater core has two raised ridges to prevent coolant leakage (heater hose clamp goes between the two raised ridges). That's the main reason why I left the automotive repair industry, most mechanics are out to make the most profit they can in the least amount of time possible even if they have to lie to the customer. Today most shops won't let a person leave unless they have at least a $2000.00 car repair bill.
I share you enthusiasm to replace components before they fail! Also, thanks to your videos I decided to install the kill mat inside my 1999 sub. While I was doing this project it was raining outside so I closed all the doors and work inside the vehicle. After a while I notice that there was a drip entering inside the vehicle from the rain on the passenger side. I too am in the midsts of troubleshooting this, but was waiting for this vid to come out first. You should check the drain below the windshield and possibly put a sprinkler on your truck for a while to recreate the rain. This is my next step.
They say its a hole u have to plug. Under the passenger side wiper setting. Every obs style has this issue including mines smh. Im waiting get my truck back so i can try it out
They'd be perfectly usable after some scouring or sanding too. They are aluminum so what we are seeing there is build-up from the coolant. And since dex-cool is orange, its residue can definitely look like rust.
You're lucky that your heater core is that easy to get to. Years back, I had to replace mine in my 1998 Chevy S10. The entire dashboard had to come out to access it and was about a 12 hour job from start to finish.
Lucky you! The heater core that I replaced seemed like the engineers started with a heater core and built a car around it! For your leak, remove the wiper arms and cowl and check for leaves clogging the air intake and cowl drains. With the windows up and the doors closed, have the blower running on high. Take about a 3’ piece of fuel hose and put one end to your ear. With the other end, go around your windshield and air intakes and anywhere you suspect a leak. When you hear air escaping, you found the problem. The orangish tint could be from decomposing leaves.
Excellent explanation of each detail, I really enjoyed the video. I'm the owner of a Silverado 98 and appreciate to get all possible information to do the job myself. Thanks a lot.
If you are going to replace both the core and the hoses, it makes it easier to do if you put the new hoses onto the new core tubes before you send the core tubes through the firewall. Ditto on the removal. Leave the old hoses attached to the old core. Simply detach the old hoses at the radiator and pull the whole assembly out through the firewall. Then all you have to do is feed the new assembly in through the firewall and connect the ends to the radiator. This way you are doing less "in-place" wrench work.
Jimmy, you did a great job. If you take the time to cut that core in half, you'll see you didn't waste your time or money. That gold colored water was not your antifreeze, but rusted water leaking from your core. No one can prove that, but as a fourth grade elementary graduate, I'd bet my lunch money on it. :-)
@@matthewgallivan8575 Ok. I'm up on Ford coolants, not GM. I know what rusty water from a cast iron block looks like and if I could smell it, I could tell you exactly if that water had antifreeze in it.
Hi, from England, UK. You should try replacing the heater core on an old 1975 Rolls-Royce silver shadow one, that is an absolutely MAJOR job, definitely NOT for amateurs!
We had an inch of liquid in the rear passenger side of our LeSabre, was told it was heater core, upon further investigation, turned out the rubber door seal had failed and every time it rains the water collects in the rear passenger side, Liked the vid
On these trucks the air intake for the HVAC system is under the plastic shroud thing that fits around the base of the windshield wipers. I believe there are 2 screws for this plastic shroud that actually protrude through this intake. Mine was actually leaking around these screws, down into the HVAC Blower housing and dripping down into the cab. I recommend taking the shroud off and clean any sticks, leaves, or dirt. Then use some type of sealant to seal around this intake and the screws that go through it. You can easily check for a leak using a water hose.
Is there a specific place you purchase your ac delco parts from? I’ve been thinking about buying some brakes and am wondering who is the best dealer for ac delco parts? Thanks.
Geez Jimmy!! I wish mine was that easy!! I had a leak in a similar position some years ago, thought it might have been my heater core. Thankfully it only leaked when it rained, so with garden hose in hand I traced the leak all the way up the A pillar to the sunroof only to find drain holes blocked with dirt & overflow leaking down across the roof liner & inside the A pillar trim!! BUT not before replacing my windshield!!!…Grrrrr! Reckon I made the worlds longest pipe cleaner with a coat hanger & gauze to unblock both drain pipes. AND…hasn’t leaked since!! Phew no heater core replacement!! I think??
Jimmy, I think your leak issue is the same one I had on my 1998 suburban. The water was entering through the outside air intake on the passenger side. Remove the black cowling at the base of the windshield. There should be a section on the passenger side that has a cover about the size of your hand siliconed in place. Remove the silicone with a pick or flat head screw driver. Below that you’ll see the blower air intake which sticks up about 2-3 inches above where the water runs off below the windshield. Run some silicone around the base of square intake and on the four edges of the short walls. Silicone the hand size cover back in place and you should be good.
Thanks Brent. I have some rain coming here in TN so I’m gonna keep an eye and see if I get water in the cab. I’ll certainly look into that, thanks again!
You can try a garden hose and let it run on the corners of the windshield. I had a similar leak on my 2001 Chevy suburban and found that the windshield warped ever so slightly over the years causing a small gap in the adhesive. Just to be sure I took the dash half apart and redid my test with the garden hose and saw that at the very corner of the windshield there was water dripping into the cabin. I also had an expedition with the same issue.
As others have suggested you need to remove the cowl and access panel on the passenger side of the firewall under the cowl. Start by removing the wiper arms and weatherstripping under the hood running along the front of the cowl, then there are several Phillips screws holding the main cowl in as well as the cowl extensions in each corner. Lift the extensions out and then slightly lift the cowl and remove the main washer fluid line on the drivers side. Leave the nozzles in the cowl and only disconnect the hose at the Y junction. With everything removed you'll see an access panel on the passenger side of the cowl. It has seam sealer keeping it in place and you'll need to break it up with a screwdriver or chisel to remove the panel. With that removed, completely clean the cowl out as well as the drains in each corner. Blast air or water in there until it is completely clean and draining in each corner. Continue spraying water in there and more than likely you'll be able to see exactly where it's leaking. The fresh air intake has a foam seal from factory that deteriorates and allows water intrusion. I recommend using seam sealer around the perimeter of the intake to seal it, silicone will degrade over time and you'll end up with a leak again. You can purchase seam sealer at autozone or amazon. Run a thick bead and pack it into the gap with your finger. Allow the sealer to cure for a day or two then recheck for leaks. Reinstall the metal cowl access panel with plenty of seam sealer around the perimeter of it and then reinstall the plastic cowl with silicone on the threads of each screw. One cowl screw is located directly above the fresh air intake. Some have solved their leaks by applying silicone to just this one screw but I recommend following the full procedure. I have fixed nearly a dozen GMT-400's with wet passenger side floor pans following this procedure. The sooner you do it the better otherwise you will develop rust in your floor pans. It is always wise to check all your door weatherstripping and windshield seal as well but 9/10 times on these trucks it is the cowl that causes the leak, especially on the passenger side floor pan.
92 Buick Roadmaster Wagon owner here... not the same, mind you, but similar in a few ways... The 90-degree rubber elbow likes to fall off the a/c condensation outlet on the firewall (inside the engine compartment). Then -- and it's not always clear how this happens -- water pours down the interior firewall under the carpet, flooding the passenger seat footwell first (and in our wagons, the passenger rear seat). This happened to me the first summer after I purchased the wagon. The cause, as best I can tell, isn't only related to the a/c condensation drain, although it's a good idea to replace those bc they're cheap. But water seems to leak around the firewall-side of the a/c drain pan. In my GM, they gasketed the TOP of this plastic drain pan but there's only a rubber-ish material on the actual firewall. No gasket. So the fix -- in my case -- was to RTV the heck out of the plastic a/c drain pan all along the firewall side (the front of the pan, if you will). Not sure if you're dealing with the same issue, but mine's been flood-free for two+ years now. Cheers & thanks for all of the great content.
Hey, thanks for that! Yes I was studying that elbow. Wondering exactly what you just said. I’ll take a closer look and see if I can help it out. Where did you find a new boot? O Reilly?
@@1RoadGarage Just keep in mind that, with our wagons at least in talking to several owners, that only replacing the elbow doesn't always fix the issue (per my fix above). At the very least, don't put your passenger seat back in, if possible, until you are certain it's fixed. (Speaking from experience, hahaha.)
You may want to get an original style spring clamp for that hose. The spring style ones can expand and contract as the system heats up and cools down. The screw-type clamp will loosen over time, and leak. Unfortunately you will have to remove that hose again to swap the clamps.
I have to say this is the first time I have ever heard of replacing a heater core as a PM item. The heater core and pipes should be aluminum so that rust on the heater core pipes shouldn't be the pipe itself. It looks more like gunk and build-up from the coolant that sits between the pipe and hose. Since the coolant is orange, the residue it leaves behind definitely looks like rust. That build-up is probably what was causing your poor seal, and simply sanding or scouring those clean would have been enough to fix that. Then probably flush it back and forth a bit to clear out the core. Beyond that...replace your coolant every few years and you'd get another 26 years out of that original one. BUT...i understand that replacing old parts with new whether it's needed or not is usually a good time...and is a much better time when you get to decide to do it when you want to vs when you have to (after it fails).
First, thank you again for all your videos on this model suburban, has been a huge help. To nitpick (for my own convenience of course) I do wish that you would list the size type and number of screws/bolts when doing these. I know it doesn't seem necessary on this one cause its so basic but its a nice touch. Keep it going man. The rear heater core is the one Im hoping you will futz with lol.
Thanks for your video on this. I have a 2000 Toyota Camry LE 4 cylinder. Sometimes I smell antifreeze inside the cabin. I will have to check hoses and the heater core. My cousin gave me his father's Camry on May 23 2018. I've not changed the coolant since I have had the Camry. I went to AutoZone in my town to check to see if the radiator hoses needed to be changed. The guy at AutoZone tell me that he thought the upper hose did have enough coolant it. He told me to take it home and let it cool down. I did the next day it was late getting dark when I checked it. The radiator cap is broken so I ordered a radiator cap from Ebay. This new one is factory made in Japan. But what I noticed is the coolant was a rust color it needs to be changed. I use Prestone Coolant. I've got some for the Camry but I don't know if it's enough. The coolant was in small bottles. I don't know how often the coolant needs to be changed in the Camry since it's a 2000. I have spent about $7000.00 on the Camry since I've had the Camry. More than what the car is worth. But I want to keep the Camry and customize it. It's a challenge but well worth it. I love a challenge. I have a repair manual I bought not to long ago. Will check and see about the heater core. Again thanks for your video on this.
I'm going to guess the water infiltration is around the windshield. I had an old Pontiac that dripped when driving in a pouring rain, just above the rearview mirror. The rubber exterior seal had dried and shrunk, and the steel around the windshield opening had rusted enough that the water would work all the way around the glass, bypassing the adhesive. Rather than try to reinstall the glass with new rubber I chose to carefully mask the glass and the metal on either side of the rubber strip along both A pillars and the roofline, then cleaned it with rubbing alcohol, then pumped clear exterior silicone caulk into the joints between the rubber and the steel. Once applied, I removed most of the bead with a finger, smoothing it until pretty much flush, then I carefully removed the tape. The tape lifted the edges a little, but spraying it with Windex I was able to feather it back down with a finger. Drove the car for two years with no leaks, even through Wisconsin weather. The best part was the silicone not only sealed the leak, it made the dried out, oxidized, and gray looking rubber shiny and black again.
@@aberobinson1 no, I don't even remember the model anymore. It was an '87 Pontiac econobox, 4 cylinder, 5 speed, two door hatchback... It had about 120k on it when I replaced the clutch, then put new struts, shocks and tires on it. A thousand miles later I was driving through a blizzard and the front tires broke loose, then bit hard and I snapped the crankshaft...
Between the hot water pressure increasing when the temp increases and airflow across the firewall leading into the cabin, I think you resolved it. Also, you might want to check for exhaust fumes in your coolant which will also increase water pressure. If that's the case, maybe consider retorquing your head bolts. Find the root cause...
Thanks for this video. I believe that the orange liquid is in fact coolant and water under the carpet. The view of the firewall from 1:30 to 1:40 certainly does seem to show that the coolant has leaked into the passenger compartment and started down underneath the carpet. Especially with the evidence of the corroded hose, fitting and obvious coolant leak on the engine side of the firewall.
Maybe you have a rusted or clogged windshield drain or cowl drain.. or a very slight leak somewhere in your widshield seal, and the rain water is running down the inside of your firewall, maybe where the bottom of the widnshield attaches and seals... Thank you for the very informative and detailed video here about replacing a heater core. Do vehicles with dual climate or front & rear heat & air zones have 2 or more heater cores, or do they generally still have only one bigger core and just more ductwork?
I'd like to suggest that it would be good to check to see if water is coming in from the door panels. I had to fix the plastic on the inside of the door to deflect draining water from reaching the inside of the cab.
I just cut my water cooler lines and used one to close the path from the inlet to the outlet. The coolant system runs better then ever. No wasting gas fighting the engine overheating, no shitty heat(or any heat). Thankfully the part of my defrost that sucks out moisture is ran by my a/c which still works.
check ,if you not already done so, all the seals around the windows, doors, and the windshield, could possibly even be leaking around your outside side mirrors, most of the time during the winter we damage door seals when it freezes ,then it leaks when it rains,but I truly beleave it was your heater core.
Jimmy. Almost all the time you provide links. Could you add where you were able to get an OEM Core? I know you use Amazon a bunch and I purchase from your links. I use Rock Auto for OEM as well. A radiator pressurizing kit makes it easy to find leaks. You can make one from a radiator cap and a bicycle pump if you don't want to spend the money for a kit.
Did you check your condensation drains? Those lines can get plugged up and may run into the passenger compartment. Or it could have just been coolant following the heater core lines...
I only had to replace 1 heater core in my life, a 71 Toyota Corona. A bit tight and I recall it took me about 2 hours and a couple of swear words back then. A good spot on your part with the finger swipe and replacing hoses and core. Sound reasoning. I however would get the correct type of hose clamp and replace the worm gear type ASAP..
Nice job Jimmy.I wish all heater cores were that easy to replace.I just did one on my Ram 1500 and had to remove the steering column and the whole dash..😠😠
Hey Jimmy I had the same problem with water going on my passenger side if you take the black plastic cowl cover off you will see a square piece of plastic on the passenger side that is caulked in under that is a fresh air Inlet and in the older cars sometimes the seal around it goes bad if the heater core didn't fix your problem
Mine leaks and it comes from the skylight. My drain is clogged and I haven’t taken it to get it blown out or cleaned out. So, I always risk a leak after a good rain. Hope that helps.
Be sure to use all your "senses" for diagnostics. Jam your finger into that orangeish liquid and then give it a taste, spit it out of course. If its'sweet/bitterish, it's coolant. And for all the shadetree guys out there, NEVER leave used coolant in buckets or pans, dogs and other pets are attracted to coolant and can die horrible deaths for consuming it. Always get used coolant into containers with a sealed lid. Great work.
I run the only shop in our city that will replace heater cores and evaporator cores. I actually love doing the dash pull jobs and actually prefer it than getting covered in grease.
My heater blows cold air , i cant locate the heater core hoses to try and flush out if clogged . No videos can i find on this for my 2008 mercury milan premiere v 6
Not sure what car you have but I do know the newer chevys have bad window seals for the front window and with rain it seeps through and into the cab, I also had the same issue with my 88 toyota with a bad front window seal allowing water into the cab, a little silicone all around it fixed the leak
Sometimes the area where the air intake is for the air-conditioning/heating can leak. The other thing I found was if you have in channel window visors it can lead to water gettin in between the rearview mirror and the a pillar.
Very nice, that's as easy, as my 01 express, was, I thought mine, was leaking, and it wasn't, and I replaced, it any way, plus I replaced, all the hoses, mine is a conversion van, so I had a lot, of hoses, to replace, and it turned out great!
I don’t think that’s easy to do on my 2003 suburban. I think you have to take the entire dash out. That’s one job out of all jobs that I would consider not doing. Great video. Did you notice the extra ring on the ends of the heater core on the new one that the old one didn’t have that might’ve solved the problem with leaking connections. Thanks for posting
Not sure if it’s similar but I have an s10 and blower motor ducting rusted out and pooled on the floor pan causing more cancer. Was spotless under the truck… never thought to look under the carpet
The leak is probably around the windshield (the pinch welds where the urethane goes is a common spot to rust and rot away) and running down the driver side. The color makes it look like it's been leaking for a while and caused a lot of rust. Other place that could leak like that would be up in the cowl area. There is usually a drain in there that lets the water that collects run down a tube and out by the frame. That tube could be clogged, allowing water to collect and find its way into the cab through a crack in the seam sealer.
Another possible cause of Water in the cabin may be from blockage in the codensate drain hose where the AC condensation reservoir backs up and gets water on the floor/wet carpet. Happened on a 2017 Hyundai and finding the exposed tip of the drain hose under the car and suctioned out the blocking material. No more water on the carpet.
God, when I had to replace the heater core in my old Volvo, it was a royal pain in the butt. Not pull the whole dash pain in the butt, but not far off. Compared to that, this is a cakewalk.
Agreed, as much as I hate dealing with factory spring type hose clamps, they work so much better than those screw type!! I always use the factory clamps when possible!
Never even looked at the heater core in my 99 Suburban or 99 pickup.. but have had every other coolant malady that goes along with those vehicles, intake manifold gaskets, coolant quick connects and water pumps.. In 05 I dumped the DexCool in favor of conventional green and never had another issue. Got an 04 Suburban as well, still with DexCool, but it has a "real" sealed coolant system. Good luck with the rain leak I could never find them all in either of the GMT-400s , ended up just pulling up the sound deadening and carpet. just use removable mats.. Going to drive all three until either their wheels or mine fall off.
The later models had their issues too. My 2002 Burb 2500 had the problem with pressure fittings leaking. Replaced, kept leaking. Switched to regular hose clamps...fixed. Water pump seal leaked. Replaced water pump and new seal....leaked. Eventually gave up. That's in addition to replacing almost every accessory under the hood. 2 fan clutches, new a/c compressor, new idler pulley, new hydro boost for the brakes. New brake lines ( nice when they corrode out and you lose brakes just as a fully grown doe waltzes across the street). Anyway, I still loved that thing. Monster 8.1L, full float rear axle with G80 locker option. It was a beast, other than all the accessory failures.
Heater core is easy as hell to replace in those trucks. Now the AC part, that's a whole different story. If you actually had a heater core leak in the floorboard you would know it because it's very smellable.
When I first bought the truck I had the AC “fixed” at the dealership… whole dash was taken out. New coil. Wasn’t cheap and wish they would’ve done more while in there.
Water in the cab may be from the a/c condenser drain line blocked and the water backing up and dripping inside the cab. Had a 98 Chevy with that problem.
Looked a little too brown, yet still clear even for old DexCool. Depending on the temperatures if it rained in the last 5 days, you likely have a leak. I feel for you though. Mystery wet floor issues nowhere near known sources of liquid are always hit-and-miss scenarios with the only recourse far too often is just trial-and-error options. Start with the door weatherstrip then move outside to the bead around the windshield. Lastly, if equipped, the drain hole(s) in the defrost could be blocked. But always bear in mind, wet boot and shoe treads can retain a lot of water as liquids always seek the lowest point.
hey jimmy check to see if ac drain hose came off or split ive seen it all windshield can have pin hole and leak and im also firm believer in prevention while im inside a race motor its apart but when fixing soccer mom rides same thing as long as customer can afford of course
That was the easiest heater core R&R I've ever seen. Usually half the dash apart. For those not quite as exuberant as Jimmy, you could've used some aluminum oxide sandpaper (for aluminum) to remove that corrosion, clean it well with lacquer thinner, use some "etching primer", nice little spot of aluminum spray paint, a new hose, clamp and walla. The hose started leaking because the corrosion on the tube made space between the hose and tube. But if it's as easy to change as Jimmy's check the price and maybe it's a better route to go new. I had a 66 Chevelle tore half apart years ago. What a nightmare that was. 20+ years ago, mechanics might do 1 heater core in their life and unless they just have to, never want to do another. I'd rather R&R an engine and trans.
If that were an 01 focus, I'd say that water seems like a cowl leak, which would potentially dump water from the windshield down through the cabin fan and onto the passenger floor. Not sure if your truck has anything that might do the same.... Or, if a Flex, a possible clogged skylight drain tube....
I have a 2015 silverado that leaked from the 3rd brake light. The seal is not a great design. I got an aftermarket light and used a little grey RTV around the light in addition to a new seal. Stopped the leak. There was a water mark around the headliner where the brake light is but no water dripped from there. The water ran down the trim and under the carpet. Unbelievable carpet cleaner on a terry cloth towel cleaned up the water spot.
Make sure your door isn’t filling up with water. Make sure the drains in the bottom are clear. Also check and make sure the clear water barrier inside the panel is tight and secure.
@@hg-.-3426 Sorry it took so long. Just saw this notification. There are small drain holes on the bottom of ever door. Some of them are partially covered up by a rubber strip on the bottom…so check under that strip if you can’t find your drains. But those holes will plug with dirt and debris. Just run a small screwdriver or pick into the holes to let them drain. And the plastic barrier in the door has to be checked by taking the door panel off. Water is meant to go into the doors…not door is water tight. But it’s supposed to drain out. Good luck.
possible leak coming from the damper door under the wiper cowl....i have seen this before....more rain going in that is draining out.....backing up and into the damper door for your heater...
Wow.. the ease of removing the heater core alone makes this vehicle a keeper!
Wow, that’s one of the easiest heater cores to replace! Some other cars would be a nightmare. When using the screw type clamps, I would have to retighten them from time to time.
All cars should be this way my 2001 jeep wj I had to pull the dash, steering wheel,seats and center console just for the heater core
I have a 95 as well - I need to pull the whole dash apart to fix the mix door. I wish it were as easy as just the heater core...
@@kstricl the blend doors were the worst thing they could have ever put in a car
@@SpotBloodrain my '08 Nitro was very similar although, I didn't have to pull the seats. Also, the dash only had to be pulled back far enough to wrangle the hvac out. I dropped the steering column down, but left the shaft connected. The leaking coolant disolved the rubber seals of the blend doors. I cut new ones from some rubber and used contact cement to glue them on. Hopefully the glue holds.
@@kstricl I'm having major problems with my blend doors on my 98. Replaced the actuators and still chasing gremlins. Have any info on servicing those?
That's the way all heater cores should be located, unfortunately most cars you have to tear the dash out to get to them.👍👍👍
My 2000 S10 is the worse of the worst, by the book 📖 it takes 11 hours. You have to take out the seats and the dash. But, someone discovered to tilt the dashboard. After two heater cores in 11 years, I quit! I ran a looped hose on my water pump.
@@regsmith7604 Chrysler is even worse. 2008 Sebring sedan, requires you to drain the refrigerant and remove the evap coils.
Like every dodge
Ever
It's intentional. They don't want you working on them.
@@disht2 Seems that way, and along with no transmission fluid dipsticks
4:47 "As they say, 'Out with the old - in with the new!'" Nice nod to Mr ChrisFix. I've wished for a long time that he'd get an OBS Chevy truck and show me how to fix mine. But that's why I watch your videos. Thank you Mr 1ROAD!
Great job. Remember those stock hose clamps are made to expand with the heat and cool cycle. If you use them on plastic that heat's up the plastic can crack.
Dude, new wrinkle in the brain! I didn’t know that about those clamps! Thanks!
@@1RoadGarage I remember seeing another youtube video somewhere explain that if you replace a spring clamp with a screw clamp, the heat cycles will eventually loosen up the screw and cause a leak over time. So maybe replace it with a new spring clamp when you get a chance. Makes sense to me
Let’s not tell those companies that manufacture radiator flush kits about the plastic cracking!
Actually, if you double clamp the hose the coolant leak would likely be gone. Just take some sandpaper to the original heater core inlet and outlet heater core tubes and clean up the heater core tubes and reattach the heater core hoses.
The original heater core only has a single raised ridge for each inlet / outlet heater tube whereas the new heater core has two raised ridges to prevent coolant leakage (heater hose clamp goes between the two raised ridges). That's the main reason why I left the automotive repair industry, most mechanics are out to make the most profit they can in the least amount of time possible even if they have to lie to the customer.
Today most shops won't let a person leave unless they have at least a $2000.00 car repair bill.
I would have just replaced the hoses.
I share you enthusiasm to replace components before they fail! Also, thanks to your videos I decided to install the kill mat inside my 1999 sub. While I was doing this project it was raining outside so I closed all the doors and work inside the vehicle. After a while I notice that there was a drip entering inside the vehicle from the rain on the passenger side. I too am in the midsts of troubleshooting this, but was waiting for this vid to come out first. You should check the drain below the windshield and possibly put a sprinkler on your truck for a while to recreate the rain. This is my next step.
They say its a hole u have to plug. Under the passenger side wiper setting. Every obs style has this issue including mines smh. Im waiting get my truck back so i can try it out
Those ends of the heatercore are in extremely good shape considering they've sat there for twenty six years, I'd say.
They'd be perfectly usable after some scouring or sanding too. They are aluminum so what we are seeing there is build-up from the coolant. And since dex-cool is orange, its residue can definitely look like rust.
You're lucky that your heater core is that easy to get to. Years back, I had to replace mine in my 1998 Chevy S10. The entire dashboard had to come out to access it and was about a 12 hour job from start to finish.
Wow, I’d have sold the truck 😂😂
@@1RoadGarage I wish it were that easy. That's why I had to replace it. I was about to put the truck up for sale and it started leaking.
Lucky you! The heater core that I replaced seemed like the engineers started with a heater core and built a car around it! For your leak, remove the wiper arms and cowl and check for leaves clogging the air intake and cowl drains. With the windows up and the doors closed, have the blower running on high. Take about a 3’ piece of fuel hose and put one end to your ear. With the other end, go around your windshield and air intakes and anywhere you suspect a leak. When you hear air escaping, you found the problem. The orangish tint could be from decomposing leaves.
Excellent explanation of each detail, I really enjoyed the video. I'm the owner of a Silverado 98 and appreciate to get all possible information to do the job myself. Thanks a lot.
Got a 95 K1500 pickup, and your videos have helped me out a ton. Thanks so much!
If you are going to replace both the core and the hoses, it makes it easier to do if you put the new hoses onto the new core tubes before you send the core tubes through the firewall. Ditto on the removal. Leave the old hoses attached to the old core. Simply detach the old hoses at the radiator and pull the whole assembly out through the firewall.
Then all you have to do is feed the new assembly in through the firewall and connect the ends to the radiator.
This way you are doing less "in-place" wrench work.
Smart move !
I have seen new cores fail 3 months after install, there is never a guarantee a preemptive repair will prevent a breakdown.
Jimmy, you did a great job. If you take the time to cut that core in half, you'll see you didn't waste your time or money. That gold colored water was not your antifreeze, but rusted water leaking from your core. No one can prove that, but as a fourth grade elementary graduate, I'd bet my lunch money on it. :-)
I agree with yoy why it is more orange but his is a 95 suburban and gm started using dexcool on all antifreeze in 95 and it is orange
@@matthewgallivan8575 Ok. I'm up on Ford coolants, not GM. I know what rusty water from a cast iron block looks like and if I could smell it, I could tell you exactly if that water had antifreeze in it.
@@bentnickel7487 yeah it looks similar but gm coolant is that orange color
Awesome filming and lighting. Very articulate speech and easy to follow.
Hi, from England, UK. You should try replacing the heater core on an old 1975 Rolls-Royce silver shadow one, that is an absolutely MAJOR job, definitely NOT for amateurs!
We had an inch of liquid in the rear passenger side of our LeSabre, was told it was heater core, upon further investigation, turned out the rubber door seal had failed and every time it rains the water collects in the rear passenger side, Liked the vid
I would swap out that hose clamp for the OE clamp. The OE clamp will always maintaining that perfect pressure on the hose in heat/cold climate.
On these trucks the air intake for the HVAC system is under the plastic shroud thing that fits around the base of the windshield wipers. I believe there are 2 screws for this plastic shroud that actually protrude through this intake. Mine was actually leaking around these screws, down into the HVAC Blower housing and dripping down into the cab. I recommend taking the shroud off and clean any sticks, leaves, or dirt. Then use some type of sealant to seal around this intake and the screws that go through it. You can easily check for a leak using a water hose.
Is there a specific place you purchase your ac delco parts from? I’ve been thinking about buying some brakes and am wondering who is the best dealer for ac delco parts? Thanks.
You're lucky that Chevy has easy access for it. Much newer cars have it buried behind the dashboard.
Yup, have to pull the entire dash out to reach it....nightmare job on many cars.
Geez Jimmy!! I wish mine was that easy!! I had a leak in a similar position some years ago, thought it might have been my heater core. Thankfully it only leaked when it rained, so with garden hose in hand I traced the leak all the way up the A pillar to the sunroof only to find drain holes blocked with dirt & overflow leaking down across the roof liner & inside the A pillar trim!! BUT not before replacing my windshield!!!…Grrrrr! Reckon I made the worlds longest pipe cleaner with a coat hanger & gauze to unblock both drain pipes. AND…hasn’t leaked since!! Phew no heater core replacement!! I think??
Jimmy, I think your leak issue is the same one I had on my 1998 suburban. The water was entering through the outside air intake on the passenger side. Remove the black cowling at the base of the windshield. There should be a section on the passenger side that has a cover about the size of your hand siliconed in place. Remove the silicone with a pick or flat head screw driver. Below that you’ll see the blower air intake which sticks up about 2-3 inches above where the water runs off below the windshield. Run some silicone around the base of square intake and on the four edges of the short walls. Silicone the hand size cover back in place and you should be good.
Thanks Brent. I have some rain coming here in TN so I’m gonna keep an eye and see if I get water in the cab. I’ll certainly look into that, thanks again!
@@1RoadGarage why wait. Take your garden hose and look for the leak😉
@@KRAZYSHAWNJ yes, I have done that and found nothing. I figured I’d wait for a more natural watering from the rain and see if that does it..
You can try a garden hose and let it run on the corners of the windshield. I had a similar leak on my 2001 Chevy suburban and found that the windshield warped ever so slightly over the years causing a small gap in the adhesive. Just to be sure I took the dash half apart and redid my test with the garden hose and saw that at the very corner of the windshield there was water dripping into the cabin. I also had an expedition with the same issue.
this video may have solved my mystery coolant smell inside the cab of my 00' Silverado. Can't wait to check tomorrow
If it is leaking it won't be nearly as easy as this 95 Suburban! I did my 2000 Silverado a few years ago and had to remove the entire dash.
@@JOELIRVINE lol you're right. Did some research, looks like a job for sure :(
As others have suggested you need to remove the cowl and access panel on the passenger side of the firewall under the cowl. Start by removing the wiper arms and weatherstripping under the hood running along the front of the cowl, then there are several Phillips screws holding the main cowl in as well as the cowl extensions in each corner. Lift the extensions out and then slightly lift the cowl and remove the main washer fluid line on the drivers side. Leave the nozzles in the cowl and only disconnect the hose at the Y junction. With everything removed you'll see an access panel on the passenger side of the cowl. It has seam sealer keeping it in place and you'll need to break it up with a screwdriver or chisel to remove the panel. With that removed, completely clean the cowl out as well as the drains in each corner. Blast air or water in there until it is completely clean and draining in each corner. Continue spraying water in there and more than likely you'll be able to see exactly where it's leaking. The fresh air intake has a foam seal from factory that deteriorates and allows water intrusion. I recommend using seam sealer around the perimeter of the intake to seal it, silicone will degrade over time and you'll end up with a leak again. You can purchase seam sealer at autozone or amazon. Run a thick bead and pack it into the gap with your finger. Allow the sealer to cure for a day or two then recheck for leaks. Reinstall the metal cowl access panel with plenty of seam sealer around the perimeter of it and then reinstall the plastic cowl with silicone on the threads of each screw. One cowl screw is located directly above the fresh air intake. Some have solved their leaks by applying silicone to just this one screw but I recommend following the full procedure.
I have fixed nearly a dozen GMT-400's with wet passenger side floor pans following this procedure. The sooner you do it the better otherwise you will develop rust in your floor pans. It is always wise to check all your door weatherstripping and windshield seal as well but 9/10 times on these trucks it is the cowl that causes the leak, especially on the passenger side floor pan.
Yea man i gota do that to mines.
92 Buick Roadmaster Wagon owner here... not the same, mind you, but similar in a few ways... The 90-degree rubber elbow likes to fall off the a/c condensation outlet on the firewall (inside the engine compartment). Then -- and it's not always clear how this happens -- water pours down the interior firewall under the carpet, flooding the passenger seat footwell first (and in our wagons, the passenger rear seat). This happened to me the first summer after I purchased the wagon.
The cause, as best I can tell, isn't only related to the a/c condensation drain, although it's a good idea to replace those bc they're cheap. But water seems to leak around the firewall-side of the a/c drain pan. In my GM, they gasketed the TOP of this plastic drain pan but there's only a rubber-ish material on the actual firewall. No gasket. So the fix -- in my case -- was to RTV the heck out of the plastic a/c drain pan all along the firewall side (the front of the pan, if you will).
Not sure if you're dealing with the same issue, but mine's been flood-free for two+ years now.
Cheers & thanks for all of the great content.
Hey, thanks for that! Yes I was studying that elbow. Wondering exactly what you just said. I’ll take a closer look and see if I can help it out. Where did you find a new boot? O Reilly?
@@1RoadGarage Amazon, actually. Not sure if this is your part number but this was mine -- GM Genuine Parts 15-33363 Air Conditioning Evaporator Drain
@@1RoadGarage Just keep in mind that, with our wagons at least in talking to several owners, that only replacing the elbow doesn't always fix the issue (per my fix above). At the very least, don't put your passenger seat back in, if possible, until you are certain it's fixed. (Speaking from experience, hahaha.)
You may want to get an original style spring clamp for that hose. The spring style ones can expand and contract as the system heats up and cools down. The screw-type clamp will loosen over time, and leak. Unfortunately you will have to remove that hose again to swap the clamps.
I have to say this is the first time I have ever heard of replacing a heater core as a PM item. The heater core and pipes should be aluminum so that rust on the heater core pipes shouldn't be the pipe itself. It looks more like gunk and build-up from the coolant that sits between the pipe and hose. Since the coolant is orange, the residue it leaves behind definitely looks like rust. That build-up is probably what was causing your poor seal, and simply sanding or scouring those clean would have been enough to fix that. Then probably flush it back and forth a bit to clear out the core. Beyond that...replace your coolant every few years and you'd get another 26 years out of that original one.
BUT...i understand that replacing old parts with new whether it's needed or not is usually a good time...and is a much better time when you get to decide to do it when you want to vs when you have to (after it fails).
First, thank you again for all your videos on this model suburban, has been a huge help. To nitpick (for my own convenience of course) I do wish that you would list the size type and number of screws/bolts when doing these. I know it doesn't seem necessary on this one cause its so basic but its a nice touch. Keep it going man. The rear heater core is the one Im hoping you will futz with lol.
Thanks for your video on this. I have a 2000 Toyota Camry LE 4 cylinder. Sometimes I smell antifreeze inside the cabin. I will have to check hoses and the heater core. My cousin gave me his father's Camry on May 23 2018. I've not changed the coolant since I have had the Camry. I went to AutoZone in my town to check to see if the radiator hoses needed to be changed. The guy at AutoZone tell me that he thought the upper hose did have enough coolant it. He told me to take it home and let it cool down. I did the next day it was late getting dark when I checked it. The radiator cap is broken so I ordered a radiator cap from Ebay. This new one is factory made in Japan. But what I noticed is the coolant was a rust color it needs to be changed. I use Prestone Coolant. I've got some for the Camry but I don't know if it's enough. The coolant was in small bottles. I don't know how often the coolant needs to be changed in the Camry since it's a 2000. I have spent about $7000.00 on the Camry since I've had the Camry. More than what the car is worth. But I want to keep the Camry and customize it. It's a challenge but well worth it. I love a challenge. I have a repair manual I bought not to long ago. Will check and see about the heater core. Again thanks for your video on this.
I'm going to guess the water infiltration is around the windshield. I had an old Pontiac that dripped when driving in a pouring rain, just above the rearview mirror. The rubber exterior seal had dried and shrunk, and the steel around the windshield opening had rusted enough that the water would work all the way around the glass, bypassing the adhesive.
Rather than try to reinstall the glass with new rubber I chose to carefully mask the glass and the metal on either side of the rubber strip along both A pillars and the roofline, then cleaned it with rubbing alcohol, then pumped clear exterior silicone caulk into the joints between the rubber and the steel.
Once applied, I removed most of the bead with a finger, smoothing it until pretty much flush, then I carefully removed the tape. The tape lifted the edges a little, but spraying it with Windex I was able to feather it back down with a finger.
Drove the car for two years with no leaks, even through Wisconsin weather.
The best part was the silicone not only sealed the leak, it made the dried out, oxidized, and gray looking rubber shiny and black again.
Was it a Montana van? Because me too
@@aberobinson1 no, I don't even remember the model anymore. It was an '87 Pontiac econobox, 4 cylinder, 5 speed, two door hatchback... It had about 120k on it when I replaced the clutch, then put new struts, shocks and tires on it.
A thousand miles later I was driving through a blizzard and the front tires broke loose, then bit hard and I snapped the crankshaft...
@corey Babcock I've done a lot of fishing on the Fox River/Winnebago pool .
Did 35 years in Milwaukee, now in southern Walworth County.
I see you figured out what the dexicool colored liquid was from
Between the hot water pressure increasing when the temp increases and airflow across the firewall leading into the cabin, I think you resolved it. Also, you might want to check for exhaust fumes in your coolant which will also increase water pressure. If that's the case, maybe consider retorquing your head bolts. Find the root cause...
Thanks for this video.
I believe that the orange liquid is in fact coolant and water under the carpet. The view of the firewall from 1:30 to 1:40 certainly does seem to show that the coolant has leaked into the passenger compartment and started down underneath the carpet. Especially with the evidence of the corroded hose, fitting and obvious coolant leak on the engine side of the firewall.
Maybe you have a rusted or clogged windshield drain or cowl drain.. or a very slight leak somewhere in your widshield seal, and the rain water is running down the inside of your firewall, maybe where the bottom of the widnshield attaches and seals...
Thank you for the very informative and detailed video here about replacing a heater core. Do vehicles with dual climate or front & rear heat & air zones have 2 or more heater cores, or do they generally still have only one bigger core and just more ductwork?
Question. If you turn the vehicle heat on. How long would it take to move the contents of radiator fluid to cycle? Thx
Do you have any instructional video's on how to replace the heater core on a 2007 kia spectra ex?
Hi. To disable heater core in old car, shd we use bypass hose or stoppers on heater hoses on engine side?
I'd like to suggest that it would be good to check to see if water is coming in from the door panels. I had to fix the plastic on the inside of the door to deflect draining water from reaching the inside of the cab.
I just cut my water cooler lines and used one to close the path from the inlet to the outlet. The coolant system runs better then ever. No wasting gas fighting the engine overheating, no shitty heat(or any heat). Thankfully the part of my defrost that sucks out moisture is ran by my a/c which still works.
Can you replace the evaporator core from there or is the whole dash needed to take off
Did you do an engine flush prior to fitting new core...
check ,if you not already done so, all the seals around the windows, doors, and the windshield, could possibly even be leaking around your outside side mirrors, most of the time during the winter we damage door seals when it freezes ,then it leaks when it rains,but I truly beleave it was your heater core.
did you find source of leak
Jimmy. Almost all the time you provide links. Could you add where you were able to get an OEM Core? I know you use Amazon a bunch and I purchase from your links. I use Rock Auto for OEM as well. A radiator pressurizing kit makes it easy to find leaks. You can make one from a radiator cap and a bicycle pump if you don't want to spend the money for a kit.
Did you check your condensation drains? Those lines can get plugged up and may run into the passenger compartment. Or it could have just been coolant following the heater core lines...
I only had to replace 1 heater core in my life, a 71 Toyota Corona. A bit tight and I recall it took me about 2 hours and a couple of swear words back then. A good spot on your part with the finger swipe and replacing hoses and core. Sound reasoning. I however would get the correct type of hose clamp and replace the worm gear type ASAP..
Have you checked for any missing rubber grommets in the floor pan
Nice job Jimmy.I wish all heater cores were that easy to replace.I just did one on my Ram 1500 and had to remove the steering column and the whole dash..😠😠
Hit the truck with your pressure washer and see if it leaks anywhere too.
Thank you! Very informative procedure!
Probably just some floor mat coolent. Sometimes they seep a little.🙃 Great videos...
I highly recommenced using Permatex on the fitting and inside the hose whenever you mess with coolant lines.
After that, did you have refill the coolant?
Hey Jimmy I had the same problem with water going on my passenger side if you take the black plastic cowl cover off you will see a square piece of plastic on the passenger side that is caulked in under that is a fresh air Inlet and in the older cars sometimes the seal around it goes bad if the heater core didn't fix your problem
Mine leaks and it comes from the skylight. My drain is clogged and I haven’t taken it to get it blown out or cleaned out. So, I always risk a leak after a good rain. Hope that helps.
Be careful blowing as it could push the drain tube off and now you might need to take apart the roof/headliner to get to it.
Be sure to use all your "senses" for diagnostics. Jam your finger into that orangeish liquid and then give it a taste, spit it out of course. If its'sweet/bitterish, it's coolant. And for all the shadetree guys out there, NEVER leave used coolant in buckets or pans, dogs and other pets are attracted to coolant and can die horrible deaths for consuming it. Always get used coolant into containers with a sealed lid. Great work.
Nice to see how simple car repairs used to be. My new car uses a heat pump to heat and cool my interior when it dies its bad news bears.
i had a leaking heater core and a misfire at a stop light could this be cause this was an on going problem I missed?
Good jobbb can I ask why it’s take a long time to start is the starter good?
Jimmy, since your truck has 2 ac evaporators, you may have 2 heater cores as well. Do you see a second set of lines?
I run the only shop in our city that will replace heater cores and evaporator cores. I actually love doing the dash pull jobs and actually prefer it than getting covered in grease.
My heater blows cold air , i cant locate the heater core hoses to try and flush out if clogged . No videos can i find on this for my 2008 mercury milan premiere v 6
Not sure what car you have but I do know the newer chevys have bad window seals for the front window and with rain it seeps through and into the cab, I also had the same issue with my 88 toyota with a bad front window seal allowing water into the cab, a little silicone all around it fixed the leak
Have you ever done that job on the 03? Or maybe the in cab filter on the 03?
Good stuff Jimmy! Did you ever check that blend door in the cowl? That's where my '97 Suburban leaked. Thanks for sharing.
Good job on the replacement. Im pretty sure you would need to add new coolant and bleed the air from the system, though.
Sometimes the area where the air intake is for the air-conditioning/heating can leak. The other thing I found was if you have in channel window visors it can lead to water gettin in between the rearview mirror and the a pillar.
Very nice, that's as easy, as my 01 express, was, I thought mine, was leaking, and it wasn't, and I replaced, it any way, plus I replaced, all the hoses, mine is a conversion van, so I had a lot, of hoses, to replace, and it turned out great!
I don’t think that’s easy to do on my 2003 suburban. I think you have to take the entire dash out. That’s one job out of all jobs that I would consider not doing. Great video. Did you notice the extra ring on the ends of the heater core on the new one that the old one didn’t have that might’ve solved the problem with leaking connections. Thanks for posting
Yes, I didn’t notice till later in the video but I did mention it. Definitely helps with hose placement. I think I need all new clamps though…
8 hours book time to do my 98 F150, insane.
Not sure if it’s similar but I have an s10 and blower motor ducting rusted out and pooled on the floor pan causing more cancer. Was spotless under the truck… never thought to look under the carpet
The leak is probably around the windshield (the pinch welds where the urethane goes is a common spot to rust and rot away) and running down the driver side. The color makes it look like it's been leaking for a while and caused a lot of rust. Other place that could leak like that would be up in the cowl area. There is usually a drain in there that lets the water that collects run down a tube and out by the frame. That tube could be clogged, allowing water to collect and find its way into the cab through a crack in the seam sealer.
so those screw clamps will end up leaking need constant tension clamps
Another possible cause of Water in the cabin may be from blockage in the codensate drain hose where the AC condensation reservoir backs up and gets water on the floor/wet carpet. Happened on a 2017 Hyundai and finding the exposed tip of the drain hose under the car and suctioned out the blocking material. No more water on the carpet.
I have heard that a blocked ac drain can cause water on the passenger floor
Check your evaporator core drain tube. It shares the same space and it would obviously be wet if the tube is stopped up. Even if just a little bit
Yup! Happens all the time and no one thinks to check it. It even fools mechanics and is a cause of people spending big money on unnecessary repairs.
@@erikkarling2176 yup
God, when I had to replace the heater core in my old Volvo, it was a royal pain in the butt. Not pull the whole dash pain in the butt, but not far off. Compared to that, this is a cakewalk.
So where was your orange coolant inside the cab coming from?
How about the rear ac heater coil for most vans and trucks ?
I might look into that one soon!
It's the ac core freezing or a clogged ventilator hose, if it's can help.
Another home run, Jimmy!
Screw type hose clamps get loose... I never use them they always leak...fyi
Agreed, as much as I hate dealing with factory spring type hose clamps, they work so much better than those screw type!! I always use the factory clamps when possible!
Never even looked at the heater core in my 99 Suburban or 99 pickup.. but have had every other coolant malady that goes along with those vehicles, intake manifold gaskets, coolant quick connects and water pumps.. In 05 I dumped the DexCool in favor of conventional green and never had another issue. Got an 04 Suburban as well, still with DexCool, but it has a "real" sealed coolant system. Good luck with the rain leak I could never find them all in either of the GMT-400s , ended up just pulling up the sound deadening and carpet. just use removable mats.. Going to drive all three until either their wheels or mine fall off.
The later models had their issues too. My 2002 Burb 2500 had the problem with pressure fittings leaking. Replaced, kept leaking. Switched to regular hose clamps...fixed. Water pump seal leaked. Replaced water pump and new seal....leaked. Eventually gave up. That's in addition to replacing almost every accessory under the hood. 2 fan clutches, new a/c compressor, new idler pulley, new hydro boost for the brakes. New brake lines ( nice when they corrode out and you lose brakes just as a fully grown doe waltzes across the street). Anyway, I still loved that thing. Monster 8.1L, full float rear axle with G80 locker option. It was a beast, other than all the accessory failures.
First time takes hours. Second time takes minutes. 74 Lincoln Continental is the worst. Have a sun roof? Check the drain lines.
Heater core is easy as hell to replace in those trucks. Now the AC part, that's a whole different story.
If you actually had a heater core leak in the floorboard you would know it because it's very smellable.
When I first bought the truck I had the AC “fixed” at the dealership… whole dash was taken out. New coil. Wasn’t cheap and wish they would’ve done more while in there.
Awesome job man!!
Is it possible that you have a hole somewhere in the floor pan?
Put Sealer on the pipes coming through the fire wall.
Water in the cab may be from the a/c condenser drain line blocked and the water backing up and dripping inside the cab. Had a 98 Chevy with that problem.
Looked a little too brown, yet still clear even for old DexCool. Depending on the temperatures if it rained in the last 5 days, you likely have a leak. I feel for you though. Mystery wet floor issues nowhere near known sources of liquid are always hit-and-miss scenarios with the only recourse far too often is just trial-and-error options. Start with the door weatherstrip then move outside to the bead around the windshield. Lastly, if equipped, the drain hole(s) in the defrost could be blocked. But always bear in mind, wet boot and shoe treads can retain a lot of water as liquids always seek the lowest point.
hey jimmy check to see if ac drain hose came off or split ive seen it all windshield can have pin hole and leak and im also firm believer in prevention while im inside a race motor its apart but when fixing soccer mom rides same thing as long as customer can afford of course
Check for inside ac condenser radiator. Could be blockage inside moist outlet hose.
You should bring Scott Kilmer your 95 suburban so he can do a review on it he lives in Clarkesville
I was thinking that same thing!!
@@1RoadGarage That would be really cool.
That was the easiest heater core R&R I've ever seen. Usually half the dash apart. For those not quite as exuberant as Jimmy, you could've used some aluminum oxide sandpaper (for aluminum) to remove that corrosion, clean it well with lacquer thinner, use some "etching primer", nice little spot of aluminum spray paint, a new hose, clamp and walla. The hose started leaking because the corrosion on the tube made space between the hose and tube. But if it's as easy to change as Jimmy's check the price and maybe it's a better route to go new.
I had a 66 Chevelle tore half apart years ago. What a nightmare that was. 20+ years ago, mechanics might do 1 heater core in their life and unless they just have to, never want to do another. I'd rather R&R an engine and trans.
If that were an 01 focus, I'd say that water seems like a cowl leak, which would potentially dump water from the windshield down through the cabin fan and onto the passenger floor. Not sure if your truck has anything that might do the same.... Or, if a Flex, a possible clogged skylight drain tube....
Great video needed this advice 💪🏾👍🏽
I have a 2015 silverado that leaked from the 3rd brake light. The seal is not a great design. I got an aftermarket light and used a little grey RTV around the light in addition to a new seal. Stopped the leak. There was a water mark around the headliner where the brake light is but no water dripped from there. The water ran down the trim and under the carpet. Unbelievable carpet cleaner on a terry cloth towel cleaned up the water spot.
I’ve been able to use one of those high powered pointed steamers to remove stains from the headliner with great results.
Make sure your door isn’t filling up with water. Make sure the drains in the bottom are clear. Also check and make sure the clear water barrier inside the panel is tight and secure.
can you tell me how to do that, my car has started leaking water on the inside and i dont really know where to start to fix it or what it could be
@@hg-.-3426 Sorry it took so long. Just saw this notification. There are small drain holes on the bottom of ever door. Some of them are partially covered up by a rubber strip on the bottom…so check under that strip if you can’t find your drains. But those holes will plug with dirt and debris. Just run a small screwdriver or pick into the holes to let them drain. And the plastic barrier in the door has to be checked by taking the door panel off. Water is meant to go into the doors…not door is water tight. But it’s supposed to drain out. Good luck.
possible leak coming from the damper door under the wiper cowl....i have seen this before....more rain going in that is draining out.....backing up and into the damper door for your heater...
@1:24 brown pin hole leak stains on top 3 rows of the heater core.