Your are a brave man, Steve . . . to suffer the potential slings and arrows from the millions of internet experts in transmission servicing and auto repair. Good job!
Thanks!! You’re absolutely right!! There’s a whole bunch of them in the comments section here, but even more in my part 2! So many experts behind their keyboards!
As an engineer, I find it incredibly annoying how the car companies literally design these vehicles to be difficult to work on. They tell you that the fluid is lifetime (which is only true if you’re assuming that the same fluid will be in there till the trans fails) because they don’t actually fix transmissions anymore, they just replace the whole unit for a few thousand $$.
as a non-engineer, I'm amazed that a company will sell the exact same materials and mechanism (pressure pump), slap a garden label on it and charge $20; or slap a mechanic label on it and charge $150.
It's called the Dealer Protection Plan. On my 2020 Ram, they intentionally routed the exhaust crossover directly under the trans drain plug. And the right side tail pipe blocks access to the trans fill plug. Wouldn't you just love to wrap your hands around the collective throats of everyone involved in such designs??
@@dannywilliamson3340 for what it's worth, the PPE aftermarket pan has the drain plug in a more accessible place. Still singed my hand on the exhaust next to the fill plug though
@@NinjasOfOrca Well, shoot. I already have an OE pan. I"m going to do a couple of spill 'n fills with Amsoil to get the old fluid out (even though it only has 27k on the clock), install the new pan with fresh Amsoil, and it will be good for the duration.
Well, that answers my questions! I'm going to just do what I did with my daughter's 2011 Camaro which has a similar transmission that is not meant to have a fluid change: Just drain the fluid into a container that can be precisely measured, and then add the same amount of new fluid back in. That'll get a little more than half of it. Drive it a week and do it again if desired. I'm not going to all that trouble to drop the pan, ughhhh, that's crazy. But you're the man for taking on that project. And thanks for the tips! I love the garden sprayer idea!!
Yeah this job was definitely a PITA! haha, thanks, and yeah that seems to be the going process to flush the system without replacing the pan. Good luck!
Crud gets in the t40 fittings an air hose blower or wd 40 can be used to clean them out and help ur bit fit into them better. If it doesn't seat far enough into the bolt head u run the risk of stripping them out
Big ups to you bro I respect the DiY 👍🏿these transmissions are to complex to just do a simple drain and refill its sucks paying the dealer all that money for services but sometimes we gotta bite the bullet and pay to make sure shit is done right those dealership have computers that can verify the correct amount of fluid going in and making sure the refill procedure is done correctly
Hey dude, yeah I don't disagree with you. If you want the job done right, the dealership will warranty their work and if something goes haywire after the work, they own it. There's always risk with doing jobs DIY so if you aren't comfortable taking the risk, then bringing it to a shop to do it the right way would be the right choice. 🍻
Aloha Steve, you should of heated up the trans to about 141 degrees and by the time you got the vehicle up on jack stands and got into position to do the work, it would of been at the correct temperature of between 90-120 degrees. There is a built in temp gauge built in the EVIC features in your onboard Cluster center of that Jeep. Basically, this is a two day job because you have to fill up the trans cooler also, doing half at a time. The exhaust system runs next to the transmission, which activated the trans cooler. You don’t need to drive it, just run the engine enough to heat up the transmission. I bet your instructions didn’t cover that part. Botton line, I hope you got all nine bottles in there. Plus, after you removed the pan, you should have allowed several hours or overnight for the entire trans and cooler to drain completely. This is why this is such an expensive job if you went to your local Jeep dealer. 😮
These are good suggestions and I probably should have ran it so it opened the trans cooler valve to drain. I never did get all of the fluid out but it still ran like a top after I completed the job. I did leave the pan off overnight so it got a good drain at least.
Thanks for sharing this 👍👍👍. It's people like you who help us to save $$!! My first shocker was the quote from the dealer to change the spark plugs and coils (tune up) on my 2016 Grand Cherokee. Second was the cost for them, or even a "lubrication shop" to change the transmission fluid and differential fluid. If you have the tools and some mechanical knowledge, it can be done a lot cheaper, just because of the labor costs. Once again, thank you for your videos.
Thanks Mike! I’m glad to help and I enjoy doing so! I’m a little hard on my hemi so I will be doing a plug change video some time this year. Stay tuned!! I also have some other general maintenance I need to do and will make videos for those also, gotta help those in need! And while I do a lot with my Jeep, I do a lot of handy work too. I’d you’re into that, subscribe so you don’t miss anything! Thanks again for your kind words and support!
Every place I got a quote from to change plugs was high but when a saw the procedure, no way am I tackling that job. Changing plugs on my old wrangler was easy but not on my Cherokee for my patience and skill set. At least oil change is easy lol
@@germanshepherd13 from what I understand, the plugs on the pentastar v6 is a pita to change so I hear you there. I haven’t experienced that job, but I did my 5.7 a couple years ago and it was very easy. Tedious because there’s 2 plug a cylinder. Took me 2 hours but I was being very cautious.
My stuff was still bright green at 57k 2016 ram, still did the service. Used amsoil signature. Shifts so much better. I popped a old t55 out of its socket and inverted it with a pair of channel locks to take the drain plug out. Exhaust is in the way of that and one bolt but doable. Thankfully my driveway is sloped making the pan pretty much level on these which is important for a good level fill. Also seems like the drain plug is reusable making for easy fluid only changes.
Loosening the transmission mount and picking the transmission up a little is key to gaining access to the front bolts on the WK2. You can also buy very short torx bits which will help with access the front bolts.
Hello excellent videos, congratulations !!. I have seen that you raise the Jeep with a jack and then with benches/trestles, I have a question about how do you put the jeep in jack mode?, or do you just disconnect the battery so as not to affect the pneumatic suspension? Please, if you can share the steps What are you going on to safely lift the jeep, I need to do some work on the lower control arm and I want to be sure how to do the previous part to lift it, thanks!!!
Hey there! Thank you! So I’d you have the air suspension or “QuadraLift,” go in to the settings in the infotainment screen, go to suspension and you should see the setting to disable the suspension for Jack mode. Something along those lines. Once you do that, you can safely lift it without confusing the system like crazy lol. Good luck!!
Haha - I made the same mistake with opening the fill plug first, and then worried about the level. Actually I was so worried that the next day I jacked up the rear only and topped off the fluid with another 1/4 quart. I realized that next day that the fill plug only drained the same reason you said--the car was off and the fluid drained out of the torque converter
I just bought a 14…shifts perfectly fine and drives as if its new….is it a bad idea if i perform this on my transmission? It has 170k (Miles)….i wanted to also change the transfer case oil, and differential oil. Along with a coolant flush. Please let me know what do you think.
Tough to say. I read somewhere that if it has that many miles with no change, then changing the oil may cause any thick clutch material or wear material to dislodge and get stuck where it shouldn't, potentially causing oil starvation and requiring a rebuild or replacement. Woof. I can't confirm nor deny this though. However, logically thinking, it makes sense to replace the old with new so it has the correct viscosity and such. As far as diff oil and coolant, definitely drain and replace those if you haven't already after going a bunch of miles.
My car have 145.000 miles with the same AT, do you think I will have problems after change the oil on my AT with this miles on it? Thanks for your great video.
@@felipeandresatenasla I wouldn't risk it. But if you insist, you can open the filling(NOT drain) hole, syphon a little bit of that fluid and check its condition. If its super black it means it has never been changed, if it is a kinda clear fluid with a tint, it has been changed at some point. Which means you can change it safely. Hope i was clear friend
If you do open the fill hole to check it's condition like Kamal mentions, please be aware it may rush out you like you see in my video so be super careful and try to only let a trickle come out.
Hi people. Is there a part number for oil and kit and where's the best place to purchase from? I've just been quoted $1650 Australian for trans service on 2014 GC Diesel. Has just done 100,000klm (62100 miles)
I have links to the products from Amazon in the video description. Just confirm the diesel has the same transmission as I have before ordering, ZF 8HP.
At 100,000 miles I asked my Jeep dealer to change the transmission fluid on my 2018 Grand Cherokee and they refused to do it. It’s meant for lifetime service and changing it may possibly cause transmission slippage. That’s just what they told me.
They want you to buy another one or waste the money for a new transmission. No fluid of any sort in any vehicle is capable of lasting forever. They do the same sort of thing with other fluids by telling you to wait twice as long as you should or tell you nothing at all. You can look up if you should change your tranny fluid once every 30K and see what it tells you... no matter the vehicle, you will always see it on at least one dealership website and on numerous websites (ignore forums). Motor oil? 3K or 3 months. Coolant? 30K. Brake fluid? 30K.
Hey there Steve, I'd like to do this for my 2018 Wrangler JL. How can I get my hands on a paper copy of the instructions like the set you had for your car? I'd like to make a video on it. Thanks
I searched the Internet far and wide when I worked on replacing my rear diff and there was a friendly dude who linked me to this service manual. They are available for purchase through Mopar but I believe it’s over a $hundo. I just happened to be at the right place at the right time.
@@iambigsteveo hey guys there is a set of instructions available online from zf (the maker of the transmission)... it gives you filling directions, torque specs...ect. I cant attach the link because its a PDF... but if you go on Google and type in zf trans service instructions... its the first page
@@jonh2408 hey I appreciate it. However I have learned the Jeep Wrangler JL “does have” a replaceable filter for the pan, so you don’t have to replace the whole pan. So it’s things like this and other Jeep Wrangler JL specific things I’d like to know up front before I get under there and open it up. Thanks.
Hey, I just had that done at Jeep dealer at my request and with my parts. I left them 9 quarts of ATF and when I picked up the car I had 6 of them still in the trunk. The service advisor said that’s all it needed, the rest is in torque converter and it’s not accessible when dropping the pan.... What am I dealing with here? TBH, if I knew that 2/3 of the fluid would stay old anyway I wouldn’t do that at all, what’s the point?
From what others in the comments are saying, there’s a lot that remains in the rest of the system including the torque converter. Was your pan dropped and replaced? If not, that may be part of why it only drained 3. There’s a lip on the drain pan where the plastic plug fastens into the pan and that little bit of a lip will prevent some fluid from draining. The dealer also may not have let it fully drain. It could have still been trickling out a decent amount when they put the plug back in so it wouldn’t have drained all of the way. I know when I drained my pan before removing it I let that fella drain till it was a drip every other second so it was basically as drained as much as it could be. Part of this mystery is that it was pulled in behind closed doors and serviced so who really knows what was done to it. I’m not saying you made the wrong choice, but mysteries like this is why I like doing stuff on my own, so I know what has been done because I saw it with my own eyes or in my case done with my own hands. As far as your other point about why replacing just a little bit of fluid, draining some old stuff and adding fresh stuff is better than leaving it as is with unchanged old stuff. It seems trivial with it being only a smidge that drains but replacing old with new even if it’s a little bit will end up extending the life of the transmission.
It does very much matters between the 3.6 L and the 5.7 L . The 3.6 L is not the same setup as his 5.7 L . Go watch a 3.6 L transmission cover, filter, drain and fill. You will see the difference.
My apologies if I was incorrect. I thought 2014+ 3.6L used the ZF 8HP. If I was wrong, please mention the correct make and model for v6 owners. Thanks for the correction!
This is why the dealer service told me it’s lifetime sealed transmission…🤪 They don’t want to deal with it… How many did you have on the car when you did the fluid change..? Because I have 60k miles and I guess I need to do it…
There are several clutches in the transmission for each "speed," each speed will have rubbing and wear so it will make the oil color more gray in time. It's normal.
My Grand Cherokee started making a knocking when gears goes up an down actually has 106k miles. Was Your Cherokee doing something similar before change the transmission oil?
@@bryanrubennavarropalacios1383 after change the engine oil I almost couldn’t fell the knocking just when goes from 2nd gear to 3rd but it’s very smooth.
At 106k, you should replace the fluid and filter. Would only help the situation but I don’t think that is your problem. If it’s knocking or clunking at gear changes, it’s possible that you have some slop in the driveline. Check your engine mounts, does it clunk if you hold the brake and go from park to drive or reverse? Could also be a trans mount or diff bushings. Hell maybe even a bad cv. Engine oil wouldn’t make a difference with shifting, if anything it would be a coincidence. Check all bushings and engine mounts.
I should have the size of the wrench fitting to loosen the fill plug, you may need to use adapters to get around the blockages or temporarily remove what is blocking.
My 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee has been slipping and I read I should’ve changed the fluid after 30k miles and I took it to my normal mechanic and he said not to do it cuz if there’s a probable with the transmission the new fluid will make the gears like mess up or something. I feel like he’s bullshitting me just so he can charge out the ass to do some big tranny job. Should I just take it to get it done somewhere else ?
I have read that also, it's a tough call. Might definitely be worth bringing it to another shop to get a quote or at the very least have a discussion with the shop to discuss possibilities. The slipping could be a sign the fluid needs to be changed, it could also be a sign your clutch packs in the trans are getting worn out.
Here's the link I got it from, it's someone else's Dropbox so it may come down at any time. www.dropbox.com/s/r8pry1plwlcbdow/Jeep_GC_2014_-2016_Repair_Manual%281%29.pdf?dl=0&fbclid=IwAR0EvhqC80d68BueqIOrAx2ZmVCJbmlyOvAbPYtbqn5imLMGVfBAbjUmBJs
Thanks Jonathan! Here's the link I got it from, it's someone else's Dropbox so it may come down at any time. www.dropbox.com/s/r8pry1plwlcbdow/Jeep_GC_2014_-2016_Repair_Manual%281%29.pdf?dl=0&fbclid=IwAR0EvhqC80d68BueqIOrAx2ZmVCJbmlyOvAbPYtbqn5imLMGVfBAbjUmBJs
How much fluid can you expect to drain out? The entire system takes 9 qtrs. but if your just doing the pan I would expect you will only get about 4 maybe 5 qtrs.
@@mattp9029 from my research they never define lifetime. Mopar kind of just bet that the average transmission will give out over 200,000 miles but in order for the tranny to last a really long time ZF recommends you drain and fill every 50,000 miles. I would much rather drain and fill, every 50 then to take Mopar advice and chance it I personally experience my oil pan leaking the factory one at around 120,000 miles so I changed it for an aftermarket and it actually didn’t hold up so I went back to OEM and hadn’t had a leak since the new updated oil pan from Mopar doesn’t have a drain plug so what they’re doing is discouraging DIY people or common people from doing the job it’s all about the money bro bro, but it’s really not a hard process. There’s so much information on RUclips.
¡Hola! I figure somewhere in the 60,000-80,000km range is where you should check and change as that is what I believe ZF states is the range for a filter replacement and fluid change. ¡Salud!
I'm sure you can use any fluid you want, but saving money now may mean spending more down the road. I had researched over and over to find out you really shouldn't use anything but the specific fluid from ZF or Mopar for this transmission. That and you can't drain all of the fluid since there's still some sitting in the torque converter, and in the cooler and lines, so if you add conventional ATF with this stuff, now you are mixing two very different fluids together which will likely cause more problems down the road and maybe need a rebuild or worse just to save some money on fluid.
Hey @@txknightrider82, check out my part 2 video where I cover that. There's a procedure which you have the wheels off the ground and you run through the gears in a specific order while the trans fluid temp is in a specific range. Once you follow the steps outlined there, then you top off the fluid from the fill hole and cap it once it starts to drip out.
@@g37fy68 REALLY? I had no idea. 🙄 haha 😂 That is the entire reason I asked the question. In the video the entire fluid is NOT being changed. You are mixing 1/2 of the OLD fluid with 1/2 of the NEW fluid (which doesn't make any sense to anyone who knows how to perform an actual flush). So when you drop the pan, get the fluid from the pan, you hook up a vacuum tool up that was not in the video to suck the rest of the oil out of the Torque Converter, the Cooler Lines, and the Transmission Coolers. Got it. Why didn't you show it in the video then? Getting tired of people who THINK they know what they are doing, but DO NOT KNOW WHAT THEY ARE DOING posting videos like this.
@@jeremyneff7844 The video was not advertised as a "flush" .It was a filter change and fill and spill. Why are you watching this video if you know how to do a flush? Make a vid showing us the flush method.
ZF who manufactures the transmission says 80K Km to 120k Km depending on how you drive. I have a bmw 528 with a 6hp ZF in it. I change the trans filter and fluid every 50K MILES and so far still good with spirited driving. I personally would recommend changing it every 50K miles if you plan to keep the car more than 10 years or up to 200k Miles.
Hi Sam. Here's the link I got it from, it's someone else's Dropbox so it may come down at any time. www.dropbox.com/s/r8pry1plwlcbdow/Jeep_GC_2014_-2016_Repair_Manual%281%29.pdf?dl=0&fbclid=IwAR0EvhqC80d68BueqIOrAx2ZmVCJbmlyOvAbPYtbqn5imLMGVfBAbjUmBJs
I thought it was, but another commenter on either this video or part 2, saying the v6 uses a different trans. The comment was specifically towards the Grand Cherokee V6, but the drivetrain with the GC is the same as a Durango.
Part of the level checking procedure is to spin the wheels in second gear for 5 seconds to pump the fluid through the rest of the system and you can't do that on ramps.
It should but don’t hold me to it. I believe the ZF 8HP uses the same pan across the board but please confirm before purchasing. If your Laredo is a v6 that is the 8HP45 I believe but double check with a little research and confirm this pan is compatible with that model.
Here's the link I got it from, it's someone else's Dropbox so it may come down at any time. www.dropbox.com/s/r8pry1plwlcbdow/Jeep_GC_2014_-2016_Repair_Manual%281%29.pdf?dl=0&fbclid=IwAR0EvhqC80d68BueqIOrAx2ZmVCJbmlyOvAbPYtbqn5imLMGVfBAbjUmBJs
I have heard from others that changing the oil at high intervals like yours that haven't been changed before may introduce potential risk. Think of a blood clot in your body. a Blood clout could be a shmeg ball of transmission oil that breaks free from whatever and then descides to travel through the lines. At any point, it could move and clog something vital and boom your transmission is dead. Draining and then filling your trans this far into it's life could potentially cause harm to it is really what I am trying to say. I'd suggest doing more research on the ZF 8HP with your mileage and seeing what is recommended and go form there. Good luck!!
@@iambigsteveo Thank you for your reply, is it possible for you to provide me with the company's website for my reference? The amount of iron filings is important for an oil change
Hey man, I forget off hand. I think I mention it in the video how much per quart (bottle) and for the filter/pan but it was no more than $300 USD for parts/supplies to do this job.
Thanks, yeah I realized it was too loud after I exported it and uploaded it. I made this on an older machine and a basic editing tool that didn’t offer an audio level to normalize the sound and music. My videos following a couple after this have drastically improved. I appreciate chiming in.
No I didn't, it was only about 5.5 quarts that went in. The 9 quarts was on a completely empty transmission and torque converter, and cooler lines. My cooler lines were closed at the time of emptying and refilling so it wasn't a full drain/fill as I was expecting.
The 2014 has a zf regardless of the engine, right? I know it’s not the same exact 8hp between the engine range but does it vary that much? I’m honestly curious!
Bruh what in gods name are u doing lol u made this so hard not even funny don’t have to take anything off to replace and re fill other than pan cause filter is in it other wise it’s stupid easy
@@iambigsteveo naw if you know what your doing nothing needs to be taken off u use a Swivel head on the Socket and comes right out lol I have one of each new dodge so I know I’ve done the job my self
And there’s a part two so this is the reason why people don’t watch videos these videos are way too long you talk way too much about shit that doesn’t matter and you don’t get to the damn point what tools are you using and just get to it edit your videos make them shorter fast forward them it’s very simple to do this you should learn how to edit your videos I can’t believe there’s actually two parts of a video that could be 10 minutes long
Thanks for your feedback, but a little contradictory considering you have a massive run on sentence without any punctuation. Thanks for the view count and comment though!
Nobody cares about run-on sentences and punctuation I’m doing talk to text I don’t give a f@&$ about punctuation. If you would shut your mouth in your videos and stop rambling on for like three hours and get to the point your videos would be much better you did a good job you just talk too long you take too long to get to the point nobody wants to see 40 minutes of you trying to get a screw off nobody wants to see that I did those parts out and again nobody cares about punctuation this isn’t an English class. Nobody got time for a 40 minute videos and no one has time for punctuation when they’re just ranting using talks to text
Analytics are an amazing tool. There are plenty of videos showing someone spending 40 minutes removing a bolt. If you don’t like my 40 minute videos, then go watch another channel. Thanks again for the comment helping me out with the algorithm!
@mark sinsel…try learning how to formulate coherent sentences and use proper punctuation before leaving comments. Your nonsensical ramble and babbling makes you look like a fool.
Yes exactly my thought make the video short and simple you don’t have to show us jacking your vehicle up and all this other stuff very short precise what are you using what oils what tools and we’re an edit the videos you don’t need to make a 22 minutes long is video crop in 5or 10 minutes long maxi you have probably triple the amount of views
Your are a brave man, Steve . . . to suffer the potential slings and arrows from the millions of internet experts in transmission servicing and auto repair. Good job!
Thanks!! You’re absolutely right!! There’s a whole bunch of them in the comments section here, but even more in my part 2! So many experts behind their keyboards!
from MA and I will say this was a BOLD job
As an engineer, I find it incredibly annoying how the car companies literally design these vehicles to be difficult to work on. They tell you that the fluid is lifetime (which is only true if you’re assuming that the same fluid will be in there till the trans fails) because they don’t actually fix transmissions anymore, they just replace the whole unit for a few thousand $$.
as a non-engineer, I'm amazed that a company will sell the exact same materials and mechanism (pressure pump), slap a garden label on it and charge $20; or slap a mechanic label on it and charge $150.
It's called the Dealer Protection Plan. On my 2020 Ram, they intentionally routed the exhaust crossover directly under the trans drain plug. And the right side tail pipe blocks access to the trans fill plug. Wouldn't you just love to wrap your hands around the collective throats of everyone involved in such designs??
@@dannywilliamson3340 for what it's worth, the PPE aftermarket pan has the drain plug in a more accessible place. Still singed my hand on the exhaust next to the fill plug though
@@NinjasOfOrca Well, shoot. I already have an OE pan. I"m going to do a couple of spill 'n fills with Amsoil to get the old fluid out (even though it only has 27k on the clock), install the new pan with fresh Amsoil, and it will be good for the duration.
Best advice I was given, sealed for life really means sealed for the life of the transmission, not the vehicle
Well, that answers my questions! I'm going to just do what I did with my daughter's 2011 Camaro which has a similar transmission that is not meant to have a fluid change: Just drain the fluid into a container that can be precisely measured, and then add the same amount of new fluid back in. That'll get a little more than half of it. Drive it a week and do it again if desired. I'm not going to all that trouble to drop the pan, ughhhh, that's crazy. But you're the man for taking on that project. And thanks for the tips! I love the garden sprayer idea!!
Yeah this job was definitely a PITA! haha, thanks, and yeah that seems to be the going process to flush the system without replacing the pan. Good luck!
Crud gets in the t40 fittings an air hose blower or wd 40 can be used to clean them out and help ur bit fit into them better. If it doesn't seat far enough into the bolt head u run the risk of stripping them out
Big ups to you bro I respect the DiY 👍🏿these transmissions are to complex to just do a simple drain and refill its sucks paying the dealer all that money for services but sometimes we gotta bite the bullet and pay to make sure shit is done right those dealership have computers that can verify the correct amount of fluid going in and making sure the refill procedure is done correctly
Hey dude, yeah I don't disagree with you. If you want the job done right, the dealership will warranty their work and if something goes haywire after the work, they own it. There's always risk with doing jobs DIY so if you aren't comfortable taking the risk, then bringing it to a shop to do it the right way would be the right choice. 🍻
Aloha Steve, you should of heated up the trans to about 141 degrees and by the time you got the vehicle up on jack stands and got into position to do the work, it would of been at the correct temperature of between 90-120 degrees.
There is a built in temp gauge built in the EVIC features in your onboard Cluster center of that Jeep.
Basically, this is a two day job because you have to fill up the trans cooler also, doing half at a time. The exhaust system runs next to the transmission, which activated the trans cooler. You don’t need to drive it, just run the engine enough to heat up the transmission. I bet your instructions didn’t cover that part.
Botton line, I hope you got all nine bottles in there.
Plus, after you removed the pan, you should have allowed several hours or overnight for the entire trans and cooler to drain completely. This is why this is such an expensive job if you went to your local Jeep dealer. 😮
These are good suggestions and I probably should have ran it so it opened the trans cooler valve to drain. I never did get all of the fluid out but it still ran like a top after I completed the job. I did leave the pan off overnight so it got a good drain at least.
Thanks for sharing this 👍👍👍. It's people like you who help us to save $$!! My first shocker was the quote from the dealer to change the spark plugs and coils (tune up) on my 2016 Grand Cherokee. Second was the cost for them, or even a "lubrication shop" to change the transmission fluid and differential fluid. If you have the tools and some mechanical knowledge, it can be done a lot cheaper, just because of the labor costs. Once again, thank you for your videos.
Thanks Mike! I’m glad to help and I enjoy doing so! I’m a little hard on my hemi so I will be doing a plug change video some time this year. Stay tuned!! I also have some other general maintenance I need to do and will make videos for those also, gotta help those in need! And while I do a lot with my Jeep, I do a lot of handy work too. I’d you’re into that, subscribe so you don’t miss anything! Thanks again for your kind words and support!
Every place I got a quote from to change plugs was high but when a saw the procedure, no way am I tackling that job. Changing plugs on my old wrangler was easy but not on my Cherokee for my patience and skill set. At least oil change is easy lol
@@germanshepherd13 from what I understand, the plugs on the pentastar v6 is a pita to change so I hear you there. I haven’t experienced that job, but I did my 5.7 a couple years ago and it was very easy. Tedious because there’s 2 plug a cylinder. Took me 2 hours but I was being very cautious.
My stuff was still bright green at 57k 2016 ram, still did the service. Used amsoil signature. Shifts so much better. I popped a old t55 out of its socket and inverted it with a pair of channel locks to take the drain plug out. Exhaust is in the way of that and one bolt but doable. Thankfully my driveway is sloped making the pan pretty much level on these which is important for a good level fill. Also seems like the drain plug is reusable making for easy fluid only changes.
Loosening the transmission mount and picking the transmission up a little is key to gaining access to the front bolts on the WK2.
You can also buy very short torx bits which will help with access the front bolts.
Great tips! Thanks!
Hello excellent videos, congratulations !!. I have seen that you raise the Jeep with a jack and then with benches/trestles, I have a question about how do you put the jeep in jack mode?, or do you just disconnect the battery so as not to affect the pneumatic suspension? Please, if you can share the steps What are you going on to safely lift the jeep, I need to do some work on the lower control arm and I want to be sure how to do the previous part to lift it, thanks!!!
Hey there! Thank you! So I’d you have the air suspension or “QuadraLift,” go in to the settings in the infotainment screen, go to suspension and you should see the setting to disable the suspension for Jack mode. Something along those lines. Once you do that, you can safely lift it without confusing the system like crazy lol. Good luck!!
Haha - I made the same mistake with opening the fill plug first, and then worried about the level. Actually I was so worried that the next day I jacked up the rear only and topped off the fluid with another 1/4 quart. I realized that next day that the fill plug only drained the same reason you said--the car was off and the fluid drained out of the torque converter
Where do you get the manual that shows how to complete the job? I am about do replace an oil pump and could use a guide like that haha
$42 a quart for the fluid nowadays! $$$$ job. I have 170k on my 2016. Looking into changing this fluid. Pentosin ATF8 is $17 a litre.
Gotta love nh! Mechanic in driveway and neighbor using saws
🤣🤣💪🏻👍🏻
That HDX sprayer is a neat trick though. I use mine as a humidifier in the winter. 😁
Wait - how do you use it as a humidifier?? Sounds like witchcraft 😂 I’m honestly curious!
@@iambigsteveo There are better ones with a finer spray, but just spray water into the air! No $$$ filters to plug up either.
That pump sprayer is a fantastic idea!
Thanks! Hopefully it helps you and others!
Agreed✌
I just bought a 14…shifts perfectly fine and drives as if its new….is it a bad idea if i perform this on my transmission? It has 170k (Miles)….i wanted to also change the transfer case oil, and differential oil. Along with a coolant flush. Please let me know what do you think.
Tough to say. I read somewhere that if it has that many miles with no change, then changing the oil may cause any thick clutch material or wear material to dislodge and get stuck where it shouldn't, potentially causing oil starvation and requiring a rebuild or replacement. Woof. I can't confirm nor deny this though. However, logically thinking, it makes sense to replace the old with new so it has the correct viscosity and such.
As far as diff oil and coolant, definitely drain and replace those if you haven't already after going a bunch of miles.
Steve . It only takes 4.5 quarts of oil for transmission
My car have 145.000 miles with the same AT, do you think I will have problems after change the oil on my AT with this miles on it? Thanks for your great video.
Most likely yes. Unless it HAS been changed before.
@@Kamal_AL-Hinai that is the problem I am the second owner, I have no idea if the first owner changed or not. :(
@@felipeandresatenasla
I wouldn't risk it. But if you insist, you can open the filling(NOT drain) hole, syphon a little bit of that fluid and check its condition. If its super black it means it has never been changed, if it is a kinda clear fluid with a tint, it has been changed at some point. Which means you can change it safely. Hope i was clear friend
If you do open the fill hole to check it's condition like Kamal mentions, please be aware it may rush out you like you see in my video so be super careful and try to only let a trickle come out.
Hello from France, how many pints did you use exactly? 7 or 8 Thanks
A L shaped t40 allen will work without having to lift the transmission up its a little tight but definitely possible
Great tip! Thanks!
Walmart sale the adapter with the hose to filling up the transmission fluid for 5 bucks I did my oil change same truck and is more easy
Hi people. Is there a part number for oil and kit and where's the best place to purchase from? I've just been quoted $1650 Australian for trans service on 2014 GC Diesel. Has just done 100,000klm (62100 miles)
I have links to the products from Amazon in the video description. Just confirm the diesel has the same transmission as I have before ordering, ZF 8HP.
Holy shit mate $1650, tell him he's dreaming 😂😂😂
At 100,000 miles I asked my Jeep dealer to change the transmission fluid on my 2018 Grand Cherokee and they refused to do it. It’s meant for lifetime service and changing it may possibly cause transmission slippage. That’s just what they told me.
They want you to buy another one or waste the money for a new transmission. No fluid of any sort in any vehicle is capable of lasting forever. They do the same sort of thing with other fluids by telling you to wait twice as long as you should or tell you nothing at all. You can look up if you should change your tranny fluid once every 30K and see what it tells you... no matter the vehicle, you will always see it on at least one dealership website and on numerous websites (ignore forums). Motor oil? 3K or 3 months. Coolant? 30K. Brake fluid? 30K.
how did the jeep feel aftr changing the fluid ? better shifts?
After a few miles have passed, we change the 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee automatic transmission oil
Hey there Steve, I'd like to do this for my 2018 Wrangler JL. How can I get my hands on a paper copy of the instructions like the set you had for your car? I'd like to make a video on it. Thanks
I searched the Internet far and wide when I worked on replacing my rear diff and there was a friendly dude who linked me to this service manual. They are available for purchase through Mopar but I believe it’s over a $hundo. I just happened to be at the right place at the right time.
@@iambigsteveo OK..thanks for the reply.
@@iambigsteveo hey guys there is a set of instructions available online from zf (the maker of the transmission)... it gives you filling directions, torque specs...ect.
I cant attach the link because its a PDF... but if you go on Google and type in zf trans service instructions... its the first page
Great tip Jon! Thanks!
@@jonh2408 hey I appreciate it. However I have learned the Jeep Wrangler JL “does have” a replaceable filter for the pan, so you don’t have to replace the whole pan. So it’s things like this and other Jeep Wrangler JL specific things I’d like to know up front before I get under there and open it up. Thanks.
Hey, I just had that done at Jeep dealer at my request and with my parts. I left them 9 quarts of ATF and when I picked up the car I had 6 of them still in the trunk. The service advisor said that’s all it needed, the rest is in torque converter and it’s not accessible when dropping the pan....
What am I dealing with here?
TBH, if I knew that 2/3 of the fluid would stay old anyway I wouldn’t do that at all, what’s the point?
From what others in the comments are saying, there’s a lot that remains in the rest of the system including the torque converter. Was your pan dropped and replaced? If not, that may be part of why it only drained 3. There’s a lip on the drain pan where the plastic plug fastens into the pan and that little bit of a lip will prevent some fluid from draining. The dealer also may not have let it fully drain. It could have still been trickling out a decent amount when they put the plug back in so it wouldn’t have drained all of the way. I know when I drained my pan before removing it I let that fella drain till it was a drip every other second so it was basically as drained as much as it could be.
Part of this mystery is that it was pulled in behind closed doors and serviced so who really knows what was done to it. I’m not saying you made the wrong choice, but mysteries like this is why I like doing stuff on my own, so I know what has been done because I saw it with my own eyes or in my case done with my own hands.
As far as your other point about why replacing just a little bit of fluid, draining some old stuff and adding fresh stuff is better than leaving it as is with unchanged old stuff. It seems trivial with it being only a smidge that drains but replacing old with new even if it’s a little bit will end up extending the life of the transmission.
It does very much matters between the 3.6 L and the 5.7 L . The 3.6 L is not the same setup as his 5.7 L . Go watch a 3.6 L transmission cover, filter, drain and fill. You will see the difference.
My apologies if I was incorrect. I thought 2014+ 3.6L used the ZF 8HP. If I was wrong, please mention the correct make and model for v6 owners. Thanks for the correction!
Why did you feel the need to change it?
This is why the dealer service told me it’s lifetime sealed transmission…🤪
They don’t want to deal with it…
How many did you have on the car when you did the fluid change..?
Because I have 60k miles and I guess I need to do it…
My fluid is gray and I’m thinking it’s water in there somehow. But yours looked gray as well..? Is that normal?
There are several clutches in the transmission for each "speed," each speed will have rubbing and wear so it will make the oil color more gray in time. It's normal.
I don't want to do it anymore. Too much headache to do it on the driveway.
hey steve great video. was your trans the 845RE?
thanks
jim
Hi Jim, thanks! My trans is the 8HP70.
That 845RE uses ATF +4
My Grand Cherokee started making a knocking when gears goes up an down actually has 106k miles. Was Your Cherokee doing something similar before change the transmission oil?
I have the same problem, knocking when gears goes up and down
@@bryanrubennavarropalacios1383 after change the engine oil I almost couldn’t fell the knocking just when goes from 2nd gear to 3rd but it’s very smooth.
Engine oil? Or transmission oil?
@@bryanrubennavarropalacios1383 engine oil! Still doing the knocking but now is very smooth. The sound comes from the back of the car.
At 106k, you should replace the fluid and filter. Would only help the situation but I don’t think that is your problem. If it’s knocking or clunking at gear changes, it’s possible that you have some slop in the driveline. Check your engine mounts, does it clunk if you hold the brake and go from park to drive or reverse? Could also be a trans mount or diff bushings. Hell maybe even a bad cv.
Engine oil wouldn’t make a difference with shifting, if anything it would be a coincidence. Check all bushings and engine mounts.
I just can't loosen my fill plug on my 2015 Cherokee because of very tight space. Help??
I should have the size of the wrench fitting to loosen the fill plug, you may need to use adapters to get around the blockages or temporarily remove what is blocking.
My 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee has been slipping and I read I should’ve changed the fluid after 30k miles and I took it to my normal mechanic and he said not to do it cuz if there’s a probable with the transmission the new fluid will make the gears like mess up or something. I feel like he’s bullshitting me just so he can charge out the ass to do some big tranny job. Should I just take it to get it done somewhere else ?
I have read that also, it's a tough call. Might definitely be worth bringing it to another shop to get a quote or at the very least have a discussion with the shop to discuss possibilities. The slipping could be a sign the fluid needs to be changed, it could also be a sign your clutch packs in the trans are getting worn out.
Where did you find the procedure I've been looking around and can't find it
Here's the link I got it from, it's someone else's Dropbox so it may come down at any time.
www.dropbox.com/s/r8pry1plwlcbdow/Jeep_GC_2014_-2016_Repair_Manual%281%29.pdf?dl=0&fbclid=IwAR0EvhqC80d68BueqIOrAx2ZmVCJbmlyOvAbPYtbqn5imLMGVfBAbjUmBJs
Nice video thanks for showing us how to do it by any chance can I get a copy on the procedure please I want to print it out thanks
Thanks Jonathan!
Here's the link I got it from, it's someone else's Dropbox so it may come down at any time.
www.dropbox.com/s/r8pry1plwlcbdow/Jeep_GC_2014_-2016_Repair_Manual%281%29.pdf?dl=0&fbclid=IwAR0EvhqC80d68BueqIOrAx2ZmVCJbmlyOvAbPYtbqn5imLMGVfBAbjUmBJs
@@iambigsteveo that's awesome! Do you have one for Ram 1500 Ecodiesel as well?
@@iambigsteveo dude you are awesome, thank you!
@@NinjasOfOrca sorry I do not.
@@James28R 💪🏻💪🏻
How much fluid can you expect to drain out? The entire system takes 9 qtrs. but if your just doing the pan I would expect you will only get about 4 maybe 5 qtrs.
Yes, that is ballpark what came out when I drained mine. It ended up being 5 so around that should be expected.
Where can you lift it with a jack and stands?
I have 2015 jeep grand cherokee and distance 75.000 Miles, is safe to change transmission fluid??? Or 🤔🤔
Zf is the one that made the tranny and mopar stamped their name on it. Zf recommended to change at 50k -75k. It’s doable just take your time
@@Lui8111 50K is lifetime? JFC
@@mattp9029 from my research they never define lifetime. Mopar kind of just bet that the average transmission will give out over 200,000 miles but in order for the tranny to last a really long time ZF recommends you drain and fill every 50,000 miles. I would much rather drain and fill, every 50 then to take Mopar advice and chance it I personally experience my oil pan leaking the factory one at around 120,000 miles so I changed it for an aftermarket and it actually didn’t hold up so I went back to OEM and hadn’t had a leak since the new updated oil pan from Mopar doesn’t have a drain plug so what they’re doing is discouraging DIY people or common people from doing the job it’s all about the money bro bro, but it’s really not a hard process. There’s so much information on RUclips.
Saludos desde México, a los cuantos kilómetros se debe de hacer el cambio del filtro y el aceite ??? Gracias
¡Hola!
I figure somewhere in the 60,000-80,000km range is where you should check and change as that is what I believe ZF states is the range for a filter replacement and fluid change.
¡Salud!
What song are you playing in the final pan removal scene (right at the end?) thanks!
Hey Michael, I think this is what you are looking for.
www.bensound.com/royalty-free-music/track/high-octane-heavy-hard-rock-metal
Nice video but can't I use Valvoline Max life ATF and save some money?
I'm sure you can use any fluid you want, but saving money now may mean spending more down the road. I had researched over and over to find out you really shouldn't use anything but the specific fluid from ZF or Mopar for this transmission. That and you can't drain all of the fluid since there's still some sitting in the torque converter, and in the cooler and lines, so if you add conventional ATF with this stuff, now you are mixing two very different fluids together which will likely cause more problems down the road and maybe need a rebuild or worse just to save some money on fluid.
Yes you can, it’s rated as a lifeguard 8 alternative meeting or exceeding specs. Lifeguard 8 is the same fluid as the mopar fluid.
@@iambigsteveo so you need ATF +4 correct?? Also how did you manage to fill it back to its original level ??
Thanks
Hey @@txknightrider82, check out my part 2 video where I cover that. There's a procedure which you have the wheels off the ground and you run through the gears in a specific order while the trans fluid temp is in a specific range. Once you follow the steps outlined there, then you top off the fluid from the fill hole and cap it once it starts to drip out.
@@iambigsteveo ok I’ll check it out thanks again
What about the oil in the Torque Coverter oil, the Cooler Lines, and The transmission coolers themselves. Why didn't you change that oil?
It shares the same fluid ding dong
@@g37fy68 REALLY? I had no idea. 🙄 haha 😂 That is the entire reason I asked the question. In the video the entire fluid is NOT being changed. You are mixing 1/2 of the OLD fluid with 1/2 of the NEW fluid (which doesn't make any sense to anyone who knows how to perform an actual flush). So when you drop the pan, get the fluid from the pan, you hook up a vacuum tool up that was not in the video to suck the rest of the oil out of the Torque Converter, the Cooler Lines, and the Transmission Coolers. Got it. Why didn't you show it in the video then? Getting tired of people who THINK they know what they are doing, but DO NOT KNOW WHAT THEY ARE DOING posting videos like this.
@@jeremyneff7844 The video was not advertised as a "flush" .It was a filter change and fill and spill. Why are you watching this video if you know how to do a flush?
Make a vid showing us the flush method.
when should we change transmission fluid? i mean the mileage? thank you
I’d recommend every 80,000 miles if possible. That’s right in range of what ZF recommends. I talk about this a little bit more in my part 2 video.
Thank you so much, i appreciate your kind reply
Id go every 50,000.. my manual says every 100,000. But that seems like alot.. or maybe every 60,000
ZF who manufactures the transmission says 80K Km to 120k Km depending on how you drive.
I have a bmw 528 with a 6hp ZF in it. I change the trans filter and fluid every 50K MILES and so far still good with spirited driving. I personally would recommend changing it every 50K miles if you plan to keep the car more than 10 years or up to 200k Miles.
Where did you get the print outs?
Hi Sam.
Here's the link I got it from, it's someone else's Dropbox so it may come down at any time.
www.dropbox.com/s/r8pry1plwlcbdow/Jeep_GC_2014_-2016_Repair_Manual%281%29.pdf?dl=0&fbclid=IwAR0EvhqC80d68BueqIOrAx2ZmVCJbmlyOvAbPYtbqn5imLMGVfBAbjUmBJs
Where did you get the service manual? My dealer trying too give me the run around because they want my money Lol
Lol that’s why they’re nicknamed stealerships. Check Dylan Gross’s comment below, I have a link there. Cheers! 🍻
Were those 2 or 3 ton jack stands?
I think they’re 6 ton stands, they’re wider and taller than 3 ton stands.
Hey, can you send me all these papers on how to deal with the car in everything?❤
Isn't the transmission the same as the one in the dodge durango v6
I thought it was, but another commenter on either this video or part 2, saying the v6 uses a different trans. The comment was specifically towards the Grand Cherokee V6, but the drivetrain with the GC is the same as a Durango.
@@iambigsteveo it was the zf8hp50 but the one on the jeep is a different pan design.
Where can I find the procedure to print ? (PDF)
Hey Julien! I have it linked in a couple of the comments, thanks!
Could I just drive it up on 2 sets of ramps?
Part of the level checking procedure is to spin the wheels in second gear for 5 seconds to pump the fluid through the rest of the system and you can't do that on ramps.
@@iambigsteveo I'll just power brake it for 5 seconds on the ramps!!😱 just kidding, safey first!!
Will this oil pan and filter fit a 2014 jeep grand cherokke laredo 2wd?
It should but don’t hold me to it. I believe the ZF 8HP uses the same pan across the board but please confirm before purchasing. If your Laredo is a v6 that is the 8HP45 I believe but double check with a little research and confirm this pan is compatible with that model.
How many mile?
At the time of this filming, it had 104,xxx miles.
where do you get the maintenance manual?
Here's the link I got it from, it's someone else's Dropbox so it may come down at any time.
www.dropbox.com/s/r8pry1plwlcbdow/Jeep_GC_2014_-2016_Repair_Manual%281%29.pdf?dl=0&fbclid=IwAR0EvhqC80d68BueqIOrAx2ZmVCJbmlyOvAbPYtbqn5imLMGVfBAbjUmBJs
@@iambigsteveo thanks so much
Glad to help!
Skunk juice aka gear oil
Seriously, it smells so bad.
My car Dodge Durango R/T it’s 230000 km ? Is it save to change transmission fluid !
I have heard from others that changing the oil at high intervals like yours that haven't been changed before may introduce potential risk. Think of a blood clot in your body. a Blood clout could be a shmeg ball of transmission oil that breaks free from whatever and then descides to travel through the lines. At any point, it could move and clog something vital and boom your transmission is dead.
Draining and then filling your trans this far into it's life could potentially cause harm to it is really what I am trying to say. I'd suggest doing more research on the ZF 8HP with your mileage and seeing what is recommended and go form there.
Good luck!!
@@iambigsteveo Thank you for your reply, is it possible for you to provide me with the company's website for my reference? The amount of iron filings is important for an oil change
cuanto cuesta aser esto ?
how much cost this around ?
Hey man, I forget off hand. I think I mention it in the video how much per quart (bottle) and for the filter/pan but it was no more than $300 USD for parts/supplies to do this job.
Good job on the video, but your music is entirely too loud.
Thanks, yeah I realized it was too loud after I exported it and uploaded it. I made this on an older machine and a basic editing tool that didn’t offer an audio level to normalize the sound and music. My videos following a couple after this have drastically improved. I appreciate chiming in.
Did you end up needing 9 quarts?
No I didn't, it was only about 5.5 quarts that went in. The 9 quarts was on a completely empty transmission and torque converter, and cooler lines. My cooler lines were closed at the time of emptying and refilling so it wasn't a full drain/fill as I was expecting.
Mines leaking yikes
Get after it! It’s not that hard of a job, just annoying mostly. Getting to it sooner is better before you end up stranded!
Just get the PPE PAN
Yeah I agree gear oil is terrible smelling🤢
Where’s part 2 Steve??
I am hoping to get to editing part 2 this weekend. Life got crazy and had to focus my time elsewhere. It’s coming, promise!
Just went live the other day!
Why would you sit a filter on the ground
It’s fine.
Shut up
Don't believe the hype change your filters. Change your oil 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
That’s the nastiest ATF I’ve ever seen 😮
It’s green to begin with so it’s just darker than norm, just like how traditional atf is red and is dark red when drained. 🤷🏻♂️
if you do the transmission on the 2014 3.6 engine youll be crying lol worst set up ever.
The 2014 has a zf regardless of the engine, right? I know it’s not the same exact 8hp between the engine range but does it vary that much? I’m honestly curious!
Pan change? Ridiculous😐😭
😴😴😴😴😴😴😴😴
Bruh what in gods name are u doing lol u made this so hard not even funny don’t have to take anything off to replace and re fill other than pan cause filter is in it other wise it’s stupid easy
How'd you get pan off? Front and rear bolts blocked by crossmembers.
Dominic, I’m going out on a limb here and think maybe he got some help from the Man in the sky given his username. 🤷🏻♂️
@@iambigsteveo naw if you know what your doing nothing needs to be taken off u use a Swivel head on the Socket and comes right out lol I have one of each new dodge so I know I’ve done the job my self
Cool story. Thanks for the positive feedback.
And there’s a part two so this is the reason why people don’t watch videos these videos are way too long you talk way too much about shit that doesn’t matter and you don’t get to the damn point what tools are you using and just get to it edit your videos make them shorter fast forward them it’s very simple to do this you should learn how to edit your videos I can’t believe there’s actually two parts of a video that could be 10 minutes long
Thanks for your feedback, but a little contradictory considering you have a massive run on sentence without any punctuation. Thanks for the view count and comment though!
Nobody cares about run-on sentences and punctuation I’m doing talk to text I don’t give a f@&$ about punctuation. If you would shut your mouth in your videos and stop rambling on for like three hours and get to the point your videos would be much better you did a good job you just talk too long you take too long to get to the point nobody wants to see 40 minutes of you trying to get a screw off nobody wants to see that I did those parts out and again nobody cares about punctuation this isn’t an English class. Nobody got time for a 40 minute videos and no one has time for punctuation when they’re just ranting using talks to text
Analytics are an amazing tool. There are plenty of videos showing someone spending 40 minutes removing a bolt. If you don’t like my 40 minute videos, then go watch another channel. Thanks again for the comment helping me out with the algorithm!
@@iambigsteveo love your come back.
@mark sinsel…try learning how to formulate coherent sentences and use proper punctuation before leaving comments. Your nonsensical ramble and babbling makes you look like a fool.
unnecessarily long video
Thanks for your feedback
Yes exactly my thought make the video short and simple you don’t have to show us jacking your vehicle up and all this other stuff very short precise what are you using what oils what tools and we’re an edit the videos you don’t need to make a 22 minutes long is video crop in 5or 10 minutes long maxi you have probably triple the amount of views
Bro rather smell farts then gear oil, weirdo
I fart so much dude.
the volume of your voice and then the volume of the music is way off buddy
Thanks Captain. First ever RUclips video like this will be far from perfect.