Jeep CLUNK/SNAP when Accelerating? (DIY DIAG - Transfer Case REPAIR - Grand Cherokee)
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- Опубликовано: 31 май 2024
- This 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee V6 runs very nicely at 202k miles...
But it has a concerning LOUD CLUNK/SNAP/POP noise coming from below when doing a hard acceleration from a stop. What's the PROBLEM??
The drive CHAIN inside the one-speed AWD Transfer Case has STRETCHED enough to start JUMPING teeth on the gears!!
Turns out replacing this chain is a fairly straight-forward repair that can be accomplished without removing the transfer case from the vehicle...
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Enjoy!
Ivan 
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The best part of Ivan's repairs is, that it's just like us working on our own vehicles. No fancy lifts, and doesn't have $100,000 in over priced tools. You gotta love it.
Ivan is pure brain power. That fancy book learning wasn't a waste with him. He puts it to use every single day.
The oscilloscope is pretty darn fancy
the scope, scanner, transducer, and loaner car gets him pretty close. LOL
I am 72 year old mechanic haven't worked in a shop for 2 years , but now I watch Rain man Rays repairs , wrenching with Kenny ,Jimmy making it work , South Main auto , Pine Hollow auto diag , Phillip Baily that have daily video's in the morning , then I take a nap in my easy chair in my garage with my show truck and my mustang ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ
I’m 70. Retired 8 years. I enjoy watching what my worn out body won’t let me do anymore. I tinker, visit my old shop friends, hang out in my shop and love naps too.
I do help out when those young 40 and under techs need consult 80’s and older cars too.
Nick's Garage
Relive the old muscle car days. Hemi's, 440 6 packs are his passion, but tackles any motor. I believe he's almost 70. Makes those motors scream on the dyno
@@dharley189 same hear buddy most don't know what a hand valve lapper is or a dwell meter
@@oldbiker9739 Man we could sure name a long list of obsolete tools and procedures‼️ Choke angle gauge , replace diodes, even a timing light, mixture control solenoid , Choke pull off (actually any carburetor part)
Coffees done. Gotta call grandson and plan for a nap after a few chores. Enjoy your day.
I thought I was the only 70-year old retired knuckle buster watching this channel 😊.
I like the fact that you're not a feared to tackle virtually anything that comes into the shop and beyond. Great job Ivan
I like how we can assess when Ivan did something based on how his thumbnail is healing. 😅
I’m really impressed with that Jeep. 200k miles and just routine maintenance.
I wonder how many people were scammed across the country over this where some mechanic said it's a transmission..when it was this...???....AWESOME REPAIR...
Mechanic just charged me 2500 to replace the engine mounts and the front drivetrain for this exact issue, then said the problem isn't fixed so replacing the transfer case assembly is gonna be another 2 grand on top of that. I told him no thanks and will now go with this solution and am doing it myself. I feel like I got ripped off so hard.
Turned 220,000 miles on my 2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo X. Besides main fluid changes every 50,000 miles, one steering rack into my repairs. Been a great vehicle for me.
I was saying "Ivan don't overshoot the pan! It's really thin!!" Ivan overshot the pan. 🤣
Hi Ivan, your electronic diagnostic skills are second to none, hands down. We all learned A LOT from you over the years. On the auto transmission service though I would have loved you having a filter kit ready. Taking off the pan, cleaning the magnet, replace the filter and gasket. THEN fill your first 4 quarts, identify the return line that's coming back from the cooler and undo at the trans. Start engine for 3-5 secs and measure how much more old black fluid came out. Crawl back underneath, replace the amount with fresh fluid, until you see fresh fluid coming out. Usually, you'll need 12 quarts for a 9 quarts system, because there will be some mixing happening in the torque converter. But you have to buy 3x 4 quarts containers anyway, so you might as well using them. Greetings from Down Under!
My Dad used to ask me how did I know so much when it came to fixing things and I had to tell him, “Daddy I’m not the first person that’s had this problem, RUclips is your friend.”
Always take the fill plug off first if it’s stuck you’re screwed
That is one of those experience things: Where the test is given first and the lessons are learned later.
@@thk7513 yep been there done that! What’s the first thing you do when you bring the customers car in to the shop? Always roll down the driver’s side window in case you lock the keys inside. Yep.
@@rickfromboston OMG 100% correct high end euro cars are famous for that
The chain sounds like it is slipping in the transfer case. If that is it I am going to burst out laughing. I haven't even watched all the video! GREAT VIDEO!
I'd just add how important it is that all four tires have the same circumference dimensions as that will cause problems if they are different. Good repair!
Ivan these early uploads are going to get me fired. I am late for work everytime.
Loved that jack and air hammer trick. As for your carrier bolts if bolts are pulling rust through captive nuts use a super straw kit on a can of spray grease. I have found spray grease better than oils for pulling rusty bolts through threads. The super straw can usually be directed inside the box section.
Ivan, spoil yourself with a cheap 4 post lift. Game changer.
A friend of mine and I both had 79k Jeep Cherokee’s. Both had the popping transfer case problem. At first I thought the chain was skipping, but figured that would be impossible. We took the transfer cases apart and could see that the problem was not that the chain was skipping, which would be impossible. What was happening was as the chain was loose as it tried to climb the tooth it would bind up, and then ultimately let go, causing the snapping sound as the chain finally went into its tooth on the drive sprocket.
Nice diagnosis and fluids recommendations. For vehicles with higher mileage on them and never having transmission fluid changes, many shops suggest never flush the trans fluid as it will clear out all of the old fluid which can cause clutch issues. They all say leave it or just replace a little at a time due to the friction additives etc. in new fluids, that can play havoc with moving parts and clutches. Of course, the best practice is to change the fluids how it should be done in the real world, every 25,000 to 30,000 miles, vs. what the manual says. Some manuals are saying every 100,000 ! We all know that is irresponsible.
Sorry about those twisted off bolts....there's always something. WD-40 seems to be a requirement before any sockets or wrenches turn fasteners. Way to be Ivan.
For a change, it's nice to see a purely mechanical job, Ivan 🙂 Great job and great condition on that Grand Cherokee!
If this was a European front wheel drive car, I would say immediately it's the CV joint 🙂
This is a great video. Nice how Jeep didn't over complicate this repair. Nice work Ivan!
I applaud you Ivan and expected that you would not call them gears like in the other video. Chains go to sprockets not gears.
RUclips saves me and my friends a fortune.
I.ve used your vids for many problems.
2 Tips for you.
I work on my block paving drive, so when changing oil I put pan inside of a 1mtr childs sand pit, no more spills.
Also, when working on deep allen or star bolts, I mark the the first one with Tipex so I can see they gone deep enough.
Those engineers really dropped the ball on those. You would think they could have incorporated some timing marks, tensioners, and phasers in there somewhere. Good job and video Ivan.
LOL Phasers controlled by oil pressure from the engine into the transfer case. I think engineers should be forced to work as mechanics for a few years before they get a degree. Maybe then they wouldn't build some of the crap they do.
That was a fun video Ivan watching a YT video on his channel on how to fix a sloppy transfer case chain & then watching him do the same repair ,the only thing I would have done is the golden rule when working on drive train parts is loosen all fasteners by hand first avoiding breaking any of them.Oh & when putting the replacement studs in use some of that green loctite & then they would be almost impossible for them to unscrew easily.🤣 Cheers Ivan.
A job well done. The neighbours should cherish your presence.
Change your fluids on time people, and keep those magnets clean.
A short piece of copper pipe cut to an 1/8 in length same size as the bolt for the weld out method stops you from welding the bracket cheers Ivan
Guy at work had the same issue with his Durango. Very common.
Great as ever a chain without a tensioner never a great idea
I'm surprised that the gears weren't showing a ton of wear on them.
Just last week I overshot a drain pain and made a mess on my garage floor. Felt pretty stupid but glad to see that someone with a lot more experience can do the same thing. Also, I'm always careful to be sure I can get out the fill plug before taking out the drain plug. I'm feeling pretty smart after watching Ivan make some goofs.
Splash-oiling is all it needs, simple.
wow way to go jeep that is truly nice not having to remove the transfer case i just replaced my 2003 chevy suburbans transfer case due to the pump eating the case and now im having a similar problem on my 2006 v8 explorer unfortunately its the front differential as 3:55 gears have been discontinued by ford so i have to get aftermarket parts as for some reason they cost more than from ford directly when it comes to gear related parts
Hello car diagnostician IVAN! You had a good example video with the volvo crankshaft position sensor, the error was caused by a bad mass between the gearbox engine and the body. I also helped my neighbor with a 1999 C70 volvo, but this time the camshaft position sensor signal was faulty. The neighbor bought a new sensor for 25 euros and today the car started .I was already preparing to clean all mass connections according to your video, but this time there was no need to do it.
There's probably a local concrete plant that can deliver you an 8'x8'x8" concrete slab. You could have a little site prepped for it and they'll set it in place. Then you could have a portable mid-rise lift to put on it. Better than what you have to do now.
In the early 70's Chevy/GMC went to full time 4wd.Constant chain stretch and bad tire wear on the front tires. When the chain was replaced it was recommended to install locking hubs on the front axle. This would save the wear on the transfer case chain.
Some ATF is clear, so when it gets dirty it gets dark but not reddish.
Give those bolts some heat soften the locktite. And that transmission fluid is green in color
that veh is on borrow time weld the bracket back on
And one other thing I’ve learned from working on jeeps; NEVER remove the drain plug without verifying you can remove the fill plug.
We bought my wife a new GC Overland in 2018. it's never had anything done except fluids and filters. Despite what Scotty says/spits, these are great cars. And they drive surprisingly well too.
Great content Ivan
You should have changed the entire transmission pan also. The ZF 8-speed has the transmission filter built into the pan. Also, there is a special fill procedure when adding new fluid.
Yep you’re correct..same transmission used in rangerovers and bmw..must use correct fluid and correct procedure getting the transmission up to temperature and refill..The pan with filter should also be changed as you suggested
Now that's the type of insanity where engineers deserve a head slap. Why the hell should it not have provisions to change a filter rather than the whole pan! To top it off, now a "special procedure" required. PLUS, there is a speed limit on major highways or anywhere else, so why the hell does anyone need 8-Speeds just to get there!
I really love when you do videos a lot more often
put a chain in a 1975 gmc, old cast iron case, heavy with a twist, GREAT JOB IVAN, LETTE'R BUCK !!
If that was my vehicle, it would be on its third fluid change.
Thanks Ivan!
Thanks for the video Ivan.
Great job.
I curious. You watched the video of The Diesel Scientist before you ordered parts. Why didn't you replace the the yellow track tensioner? It is a wear point just like a timing chain track.
Nice to get a non head scratcher for a change. Put some Bernzomatic action on those loctited fasteners, it makes a big difference. The Dodge truck u- joint bolts are loctited too. The heat will break the bond. A little patience, heat and lube would have worked those carrier bolts out, NDR. Have a great Day Ivan.👍👍🇺🇸
I’d exchange the entire ZF trans pan and filter assembly.
Glad you're doing the other fluids! 😁
Fast fix. Good to know about this .
I'll have to remember this one. Nice job my friend.
Superwork on the chain/transfer case. - Solved the problem...! Kudos
You follow regular car reviews, nice!
Thank you Ivan your inspiring. 😀
Propane Torch makes the drive line bolts come out easy, Am sure someone already pointed this out. Love your stuff.
The plastic pan has an integrated filter so that would have been a good idea to change out. They are not cheap though.
I’m a Chrysler tech and the 8 speeds are filled for life. You should be using the Chrysler fluid. Had a lot of issues where customers got the transmission fluid changed using generic fluid and had issues later on.
@@medic1dl The Chrysler fluid is Lifeguard 8, is it not? And there are plenty of compatible aftermarket fluids. That said I am skeptical of fluids like Valvoline Maxlife that seem too good to be true.
@@kevin9c1 Mopar ZF 8&9 Speed ATF™ Automatic Transmission Fluid. "For eight speed transmissions, the fluid level is preset at the factory and does not require adjustment under normal operating conditions. Routine fluid level checks are not required, therefore the transmission has no dipstick. Your authorized dealer can check your transmission fluid level using special service tools." Under the maintenance schedule it only lists changing fluid on the 6 speeds only.
@@kevin9c1for what its worth ive used maxlife in everything from 4l60s to ZF 8HP transmissions and had good luck. I even use it in mercedes 7 speed automatics with great results.
@@medic1dl something important to remember; “lifetime” to a manufacturer is the life of the warranty. Anybody who wishes to take the vehicle past that, which only makes sense so you’re not losing your hind end due to depreciation or cost of replacement, will ignore manufacturers recommendations on lubrication these days and over maintain their products.
They’re getting all kinds of kickbacks for showing their vehicles do not require heavy use of petroleum products these days.
I'm pretty sure you have to check the transmission fluid level on level ground and the fluid temperature at certain level. Might not have the right amount if you just assume and put the same that came out.
I enjoyed watching the fluids drain, the wrenches turning, the old parts shifting out, new ones in. A good old fashioned mechanic 🧰 job. No computer required 😅
The thing that really puzzles me is down here in the South where it snows once every two or three years and it's all melted by the afternoon, most of the cars are sold with 4WD. Why? I think the dealers just like the up charge. A lunch mate co-worker has a 4WD minivan. Why? It's not like she's going off roading. Whenever it's her turn to drive to lunch we are always trying to egg her on to turn off the road and take a short cut across a field. She's the last person who would go off roading. On the other hand another lunch mate in our group has a serious off road vehicle and we have to try to get him to NOT cut across that field because it's rather bumpy.
Happy to see a JGC with lots of miles with what appears to be minimal maintenance. I hope the oil changes were always on time.
Thanks!
Another happy customer 👍 💰
Winner winner😁
19:50 Very satisfying, keep it on, and off-roading too, many more happy Jeep-miles.
That Max Life Fluid says it is compatible with everything. But I would not put it in just anything. Some transmissions seem to need very specific formulations to continue working correctly. That first fluid fill from the factory made it 200k miles, I would have definitely put that same fluid back in this truck and not used some "one-size" fits all fluid.
But that's just me.
My 2002 Montero Sport takes SP-III fluid and that is all it gets. 158k so far and no issues.
I use the Max Life fairly often, never had any issues. On the other hand , My Toyotas and others that I service only get Toyota WS. I made the mistake one time getting Amsoil signature, which probably is great stuff, but it is the absolute worst smelling atf ever made. I used it in an older Higjlander once and My garage stunk for a week. I still have 3.5 gallons I’d give anyone a good deal on! 😅😅
Me too, especially when you're only talking half a quart. Mopar ATF+4 isn't *that* expensive.
@@brianw8963I was thinking about trying Amsoil signature in one of my vehicles. Didn't know it smelled bad! Good idea not to spill it, I guess. If you're close I'd take it off your hands.
You’re braver than me Ivan. I wouldn’t assume the trans fluid level would be above the absolute minimum level as cheap as manufacturers are nowadays. I also would measure what I take out but upon running briefly I would have to go thru the level check procedure. I was speaking to Thinktool just yesterday about your channel. Maybe they will reach out to you..Also, for those Ivan fans who bought a Thinktool pro hopefully you have realized that the FCA authorization dispute is over so your tool should work again
RULE #1 for fluid changes. Take out the fill plug first!!!!!!! Then you can refill after draining without creating an issue for yourself.
Nice. I need some inspiration.
Few ever check or change transfer case oil.
Until it makes noise.
Just fixed a few .
carlyle makes a set of very short hex and torx sockets, i use them for jeep cherokee oil filter adapter gaskets
For the fill plug next to the oil pan you can buy a set of hex wrenches that have a shorter head on them for accessing in cramped quarters like that. OR like many of the other mechanics where i worked including me, shorten a regular length one whose corners had been worn after excessive use. Always had a few of the more popular sizes cut off until i bought a set of the shorter ones. Those broken bolts, i don't know why they would put such long ones in there in the first place. The exposed part just gets all rusted and the threads filled with debris in an enclosed spot like that, where you can't get at to clean out. Gives you a greater threat of the threads piling up, if you can get them moving.
I just think that this is job security for the car parts manufacturer (Jeep in this instance)
wow this reminds me of the borg warner 1305/1339 quadratrac chain driven t-case that's in my 1978 jeep CJ7. it was Jeeps "all wheel drive" version of the CJ that was a 304-V8, Married to a TH 400 transmission, the 1305/1339 t-case and a off-set pumpkin AMC 20 rear. an absolute nightmare to find parts for and lots of money to convert to a manual.
I worked at a Jeep dealership in the 70s and changed many quadratrac chains. They had a “go/no go” tool that screwed into the side of the quadratrac case and indicated chain stretch.
You need a "no Fear" T shirt....
That's alot of hard work without a lift. Your neck muscles must really hurt after that repair.
He’s a pup yet, it’s coming.😅😅
Best way to remove those driveshaft bolts is to heat them up with a torch..
HEAT IS YOUR DADDY 👍
6 years ago I started my shop because if you scanner Danner and Eric. I was for sure green. I had a 14 Cherokee come in from used car lot. They had a previous shop put a transfer case in. It still had issues. They brought it to me to have the case replaced again. I put case in and it still had same code. I was scratching my head when I figured out the connector going to the transfer case was not plugged in all the way. I still have that one I pulled out because it's still good. Car lot has done this about 5 times since. They had me replace a motor that had locked up compressor and alternator. They had me put a transmission in a avenger that needed a PCM. Car lot guys are cheap to a fault.
I delivered parts to car lots. They run a scanner.. Read the code and fire the parts cannon. That why I don't buy used cars from lots. I also deliver radiator stop leak alot😅😅😅
Congrats on shop ownership. Started mine 1986 before all of the help on internet was invented.
Used to work on a ton of used car lot cars. Lost almost all because they wanted everything patched.
Pick your customers and your jobs and you will enjoy. My career was 50 years total.
New career involves grandson and toy cars ‼️
@@dharley189 I used to be strung out on drugs. I came home from prison 10 years ago. I was never a mechanic really. I did work at that same car lot doing brakes and cleaning cars. I had went to school in prison for electrical. I went to trade school for mechatronics. Fancy word for industrial maintenance. I started a job at a plastics place. I didnt know the 1st day I started but I knew more than the guy in charge. He used to call people in to run a air line 20 feet. Anyway I got fired from there. They even fought my unemployment after almost 2 years. I was rebuilding GM instrument clusters on the side. I knew a guy who closed his shop but had 3 vehicles that need fixed. We struck a deal for me to rent his shop. I fixed his cars and the rest is history.
@@dharley189 Yes sir. I have done all of this with n othing. I was strung out on drugs and went to prison. I came home 10 years ago and went to tech school for mechatronics. I got fired from a dead end job at a plastics place. Little did I know the day I started I knew more than the guy who worked there 20 years and was in charge of maintenance. He would call outside companies for everything. Even to move an air line 10 feet down the wall. I was rebuilding instrument clusters and saved some money. Made a deal to rent a shop dude closed. He had 3 cars. 2 tore apart in the garage. A audi a6 he was putting a trans in. It ended up being TCM. Also a VW Toureg that had motor tore out for a rear main seal leak. I put em together and the rest is history.
Good job! I change fluids in the three vehicles here every two to three years. Engine oil, engine coolant and brake fluid are at the top of the list. Engine oil and filter every 6 months or 3000 miles. Oil is cheap! Engines are expensive!
Good video Ivan.
14:58 OMG so easy, nice!!! I loved and missed every type of Jeep I had.
My 1978 CJ7 Jeep with Quadra track did the very same thing
I replaced several transfer case chains back in the 70s when they first started using the chain driven transfer cases. Originally they used 90 W gear lube like the gear driven cases used. In the winter that gear lube is nearly solid and even in warm weather it was too thick to properly lubricate the chain. I did several 1973 and 1974 models because the dealer I worked for could buy them cheap at vehicle auctions. By 1975 or 1976 the recommended lubricant was changed to Automatic transmission fluid on automatic transmission models and 10 weight oil behind manual transmissions. In those days, the case was cast iron and the transfer case had to b removed to replace the chain.
Nice video and fairly straight forward fix. Using green Loctite is just mean. 🤣🤣
Use heat to remove loctited bolts while still hot. 180 to 300 degrees will drastically reduce the required torque depending on loctite type.
You should have replaced the trans pan filter assembly
It’s a jeep thing, no one understands. Doesn’t the transmission pan have an internal filter built in like of ZF transmissions? I think you’re supposed to replace the whole pan?
I'm 71 years old and a mechanic back in the day. I still have a hard time when I see plastic oil pans.
Great video. May I recommend low profile Allen wrenches. Love mine bought for that and ball joints
Wow. Amazingly easy, well except for the broken bolt.
Not First....Thanks for the video Ivan
Next you should show us the Pics On The Beach Gone Wrong video on youtube, hahaaa......great fix, thanks Ivan!
I watched one and a half minutes and suspected the transfer case as well. I've done two of these Lets see if we're right.
Can we do a follow up of pic on the beach gone wrong :-)
Great video! Good to know pros also go on RUclips to find answers! Lol. Thank you!
Nice job Ivan! I would have replaced the pan which houses the filter just because of the milage. Thanks!
I would say the XL-7 is a much more robust system than that vehicle. Must be something from Fix it again Tony.
Those things don't hold very much oil, less than 2 pints if I remember right. What looks like a small seepage of fluid can be deadly.
YOUR SO GOOD YOU DESERVE TO GET YOURSELF A HOIST...
Council zoning rules don't allow it in his residential neighbourhood. So much to the term "land of the free"... same as here in Oz, the EU and Britain. We're just their serves, being really a free individual in the West seemed to become an illusion
Hi IVAN,another interesting video.This one however was the kind most mechanics can handle,haha a simple parts change.Quite different from your last 10 repairs.ONE tip that might help someone out when doing a repair with Loctite,in a 1 day seminar i took years ago by loctite corp. If you heat bolts or assembly's to around 325 degrees or so the loctite releases easy.Also when applying it,they make a primer/cleaner you are supposed to use.AT work i used the stuff for 1 bottle worth,and i learned exactly why bolts like yours STAY TIGHT.PREP>who knew.good video IVAN