Hi SkillCut. I grafted about 30 grafts after seeing your videos and they all took except for about 3 of them. I even grafted 5 different scions onto one tree and they are all healthy. It's been about 3 months and they are looking good. Thanks for your awesome videos.
Thanks a ton for all your videos. I went to RUclips university on all your videos, I really appreciate that you’ve taken the time to pass all this knowledge. I have a 25 year old crabapple that I hope to make more like frankentree this winter.
I think that's my favorite video of the series so far. I was already familiar with a lot of the other stuff, but there's not that much information on frameworking. Great stuff. I'm also very interested in seeing rehabilitation of an old overgrown tree. I run into that situation a lot.
yes, I would like to do that video someday if I get access to the right tree and have time. It usually involves some tough decisions. I think it's really unfortunate that frameworking is not more common. Hopefully we can change that.
I tried grafting onto a 5 month old pear seedling this year when it started its second little growth spurt (it was basically only grown indoors under a shop light). I grafted it a week ago on it with whip and tongue grafting (and it was about 8'' tall). It is already starting to grow so that makes me happy it worked.
Great series! BTW - the scions you sent me some weeks back for "BITE ME!" did unfortunately start sprouting in the mail. I picked the four that had some buds that were not fully sprouted and grafted them onto four different trees. Two have put on some large leaves already and are steadily growing the other two look like the buds are about to pop. In all four cases the bark has healed. These were my first four grafts! - two cleft and 2 whip and tongue. Thanks for the scions and all of the info.
Yeah, those were probably the last ones I sent out. I noticed some were starting to push so i picked out the best ones. It pushes early and often pushes in the fridge like it's parent Wickson. Chestnut crab does it too. I'm glad it worked out. I graft stuff like that all the time, like you said, find the best buds and go with those. I've also grafted buds that were showing green though and gotten away with it by being careful about everything else and probably some luck. Then again, sometimes stuff fails and you never find out why. congratulations :)
I like the idea of your's suggestion that longer scions should be used simply because of the grafted ( scion ) wood producing fruiting spurs and not just vegetative growth. That's something that I never considered when I was top working on an existing tree in my collection. Thanks for the great tip.
I've never done any trials to be sure it works or not, but I think it probably helps a little. It would take a sizeable number of grafts of the same things to get much useful data on that, so I just go with it.
@@SkillCult I'll see what results I have when I'm doing a few rework top grafts in a couple of months. I exclusively did bark grafts last year on the reworking of those trees and I had incredible results. Thanks for the great tips.
Fantastic, I have read your blog on frameworking last year and was looking forward to see this close-up and detailed explanation. I live in the city and my orchard is in another country. Since I can't really irrigate or see what my trees need on a weekly basis, I started (after some failures to get trees established) most of my trees from seed - they just seem to survive better on neglect than nursery trees. Most of them are now becoming large enough to either topwork or framework in the coming years, so I was looking forward to all this detailed info and tips, based on your years of experience. Thank you for explaining everything so thoroughly.
Started watching your channel a few months ago, and I am very impressed by what you do and what seems to be the ideas motivating you. I have learned a lot that I will try out in my garden i I ever manage to keep the damned deers out (they kill every fruit tree i plant, especcially apples). Am also pleased to see that your amount of subscribers is growing more rapidly now. Every time this evening that I have started a new video, your number of subscribers is higher. At least 10 more in the last hour. Hope this motivates you to continue making great quality stuff like this (I get a real "zen and the art of motorcykle maintenance" feeling from watching your channel). Thank you for your efforts, and I will definitely recommend your channel to friends and neighbours.
Thank you for that feedback. I appreciate it. I plan to keep it up and seem to come up with endless ideas. We'll see if I'm still saying that in three years lol. Yeah, growing much fast now finally. It took a while, but I don't do the things I should. Getting better at that part. Cheers.
They are oriental poppies. More people should grow them. They are long lived perennials and even in my hot dry climate, they survive with no care at all. They can form a large mound over time. and will just flower every year. Totally cool :)
That graft @ the 23 minute mark demonstrated, . Best for me a side graft.. Side grafts interest me as an alternative to getting a bud to swell on a trunk
great video! one question, say you have a younger tree that is 8' tall but with no scaffolds for the first 6 feet or so, lets say its 3/4" in diameter most of the trunk, could you add scions with side grafting onto this bare trunk section?
I actually meant to make two more videos in this series, but never finished. One on miscelaneous stuff like that. If there is a dormant bud or small shoot in a decent position, you can cut a small notch above it to try to force it to grow out. About 1/3 around the shoot diameter, and maybe 1/16" wide or a little wider. If there is no bud, you could try chip budding in a piece. Any way you can fit a small chip of wood with a good bud on it, so that the cambium lines up could work. I did one where I just cut straight into the stem at 90 degrees, top an bottom, split out the wood and added a piece of scion with the same diameter. As soon as it started growing, I notched it and it's not a scaffold branch. If you watch the video I did on summer chip budding with Mark Albert, that is another way to cut them and you can do that now with dormant wood, or in the summer with a mature bud from the base of a current year shoot growth. It might be possible to get a longer scion onto a small diameter branch, but you want to make sure the angle isn't too steep, and that is going to nix a lot of options. I would do one of those two options, grow a shoot and graft it next year, or chip bud a scaffold in, or even both. Even if the chip bud doesn't take, it should heal up and do okay.
I don't think it was supposed to work this way but I grafted a small branch of my favorite apple tree to a small branch of a scrub apple tree. The branch I grafted on died but within two years every part of the main branch above that attempted graft changed into the type of apple tree I was trying to grow.
That was really useful. I've got an old apple tree that doesn't produce much fruit. I was thinking of taking it out, but now I'm going to try grafting on some scions taken from some fruitful younger trees and give it a new lease of life (hopefully). Thanks for giving me the knowledge and confidence to give this a go! Gerry
Sometimes they just get so overgrown that they need some wood cut out to wake them up and push resources into fewer growing points. regafting to new stuff can do that if you take out enough of the old wood. Good luck. It's lot's of fun. Check out the North American Scion Exchange and the Growing Fruit forum online. Good places to network and trade scions.
Just severely pruning can do wonders. We pruned an old tree that hadn't had anything done to it for 30 years when we moved to our property and were amazed at the result. We would have done more but they were very old and unlikely to respond to a lot of work.
I love your videos!!? Thank you for all your amazing knowledge!! I just grafted 2 avocado 🥑 🌳 thank you darling!! BTW, I’m growing them in a one gallon container, they’re about 3ft tall and I just grafted yesterday! The weather is about 90* outside and I’m so scared to place my trees in the sun!! I have them inside my apartment next to a window but in the shade! Am I being too overprotective or just crazy!! 😆 Im treating them like if they are in ICU!!! Yup… I’m just crazy 😝
Ha ha, you are not crazy actually. If they grrew up inside, they might get fried in direct sun. You can put them under a little shade for a while, like shade cloth, or jut put them out for 15 minutes a day for a while and slowly build it up. They may be fine too, but usually you'll find out the hard way if you leave them out for a full day or something. Or just wait until spring and let them aclimate slowly as it gets brighter and hotter.
Thanks for the videos!! Great information! I am working on grafting scions of a different variety to a plum tree for pollination. When should I graft the scions? Before flowers appear or after? Again, thanks for sharing your knowledge!!
I frameworked a few trees this year and have very vigorous growth (3+ feet) from many of the scions and it's only mid-July. I want them to be strong and they look leggy/non-robust and I want to promote fruiting bud development as soon as possible. Should I just leave them alone, tip them, prune them back significantly? I've done some research and can't come up with much good information on aftercare of successful grafts and future training, i.e. do they benefit from summer pruning or should I leave them alone until the spring? Thanks!
I suppose, but with that side graft, it is near impossible to have a wide angle attachment. I could cut it to the very first outfacing bud at the base of the scion and force that to grow straight out. It is not a large main scaffold so hopefully it would be okay. I'll try to remember to look at a few old ones I've done.
It could, but definitely just damp, not wet. someone sent me some in wet vermiculite recently, much too soggy. If the scion is fresh and sealed in a ziplock, you don't need anything usually. but something damp is okay and helpful for longer storage.
Thanks for these videos! Wow. Question for you- is it possible to frame work a newly planted tree? Say a 5' or 6' tree purchased in pot and newly planted in ground? Or should you wait a period of time after planting to try any frame or top grafts? Thanks!
Love your videos. Wished I would have starred grafting 30 years ago. A question if you would be kind enough to respond. I grafted 8 varieties of asian pears to a 12 foot tall unknown rootstock ( store bought Bartlett pear that died thorned root stool emerged) grafted pears now 42 inch new growth. Should I cut back or let them go
I'd just let them go and do some winter training and pruning. See my vids on training fruit trees for how to insure you get laterals or secondary scaffolds where you want them. Sounds cool. That's a vigorous tree, stop feeding and watering it probably lol.
hi ive got a small yard in Ghana which has one existing mango tree about 5 years old, i have 2 different variety mangoes saplings at the moment about a foot tall, in the long run i'd like to graft them onto the existing tree possibly in 2 years time once the young ones are established..... any advice.... which would you consider frameworking or topworking...
I dont' know much about mango grafting so you will have to research details on timing etc. If the stock tree is 5 or 6 years old, I would probably replace the main branches by grafting near the trunk. But depending on how big the stubs of the branches will be after you cut them off. If they are over an inch or 1.5 inches, I might graft further out by replacing side branches, or the ends of branches. They should grow back pretty fast if the tree is healthy.
Back then I just had my sony nex5t with the onboard stereo mics.. They have a broad pickup pattern, so they pick up everything in 360 degrees, but for on camera mics, they were surprisingly good. Very few camera mics are that decent. Now I have a panasonic and have to use an external mic. I'm hoping to upgrade that soon. All of it is either in or mounted on top of the camera though so far. I haven't gone to external sound yet, because it's just more equipment, more things to check and turn on and off and remember to do. I may soon though, just to be able to take the sound up a notch.
Hello Steven, I've learned a lot from your videos on grafting and gardening. I have a question about grafting when the scionwood is active (i.e., you collect it in the spring when leaves are on it). Is it possible to do grafting with this kind of wood, and if so are there different procedures one should follow? I have an experiment going on right now with a couple plum trees to try to test this. I sawed a branch off tree A, and then did several bark grafts with wood from tree B. The wood from tree B was active and had some small leaves just emerging from buds (I'm in the pacific northwest and spring is just ramping up here). My theory is that the leaves on the scionwood would normally allow too much water to evaporate, so I wrapped the completed grafts in a plastic bag and sealed it all up. I'll take the bag off in like 3 or 4 weeks and see if the leaves survive.
You might get away with it. It's a neat experiment. Make sure the graft doesn't cook in the sun. You might need some shade, depending on weather. I would probably remove the leaves, and let the dormant buds at the bases of the shoots grow out, but I think your experiment is cool. Let me know how it goes. if the scion doesn't dry out, no reason it shouldn't work.
I would attempt it, with caution and a backup plan. Probably 50% or more of the grafts would fail (at least if I did it lol), but you can leave options for the branch to continue growing and just graft it again until it takes. People who have stone fruit grafting down better might have their own way of doing it, but I think if you just leave a contingency plan, you should be good and there is no other reason it shouldn't work. I have a couple peach/nectarines I've done or am doing, grafts fail, but the tree keeps growing.
I don't know anything about mangoes specifically, but probably. Sometimes there is incompatibility between varieties of fruit, but usually not. It's the same species, you are usually good to graft.
At 16:00, could you use a t-bud to add a bud to an existing bare branch and get another branch that way? Maybe add a notch above the bud to get the tree to divert energy into the bud to force it to grow?
I think it might be a problem getting it to actually grow out once it were healed. But yeah, notching might make it grow. I have tried that and failed, but Can't remember why. Probably the bud died.
Thanks Steven! I got a couple bud sticks about a week ago of Wickson and King David so I've added all of them at various places on four trees. My plan is to notch above each one about 2-4 weeks before bloom to see if I get anything. I also put a few on some smaller branches that I can just cut off above the bud once I verify it's actually taken and healed.
Notch them before bud swell if you can, or when they just start to swell. Isolation also helps. if there are any extra branches near, cut them off to direct more energy into the bud.
depends on the situation probably I don't do a lot of budding, but I would probably be more inclined to use the side graft on larger more mature wood and bark and maybe think about budding on smaller stuff.. You could also just do both and see what happens.
at 19:26, would about three weeks be time enough for that graft to take, depending on the weather? . this month I'm going to brutality prune an old tree up in the top, about twelve feet from the ground and will be using mostly rind and side grafts, someone years ago planted it to near an active well and there's just little sour green apples on it now, but I'm going to make it my lifes work to get an editable apple off of it. it's so close to the well that for a while, I was afraid to use any fertilizer on it, but then I figured that the well water started at 55 ft, so I'd be safe and everyone that lives on the property buys bottled drinking water anyway although the water tested good.
IU have a couple. I've never tried grafting them, but it would be kind of cool to have loquats on part of a tree with apples and pear on it lol. People would be like WTF??
@@SkillCult Yes, especially since they are evergreen in the winter :D Also, loquats ripen very early in the season, so it would be a way to extend the harvest season of one tree. I wonder if you could get a year-round fruit tree in mild temperate climate this way. Earliest/Mid/late loquats and earliest/mid/very late apples on one tree.
It's not important unless the graft is being constricted. Many grafting wraps will stretch enough, that it really doesn't matter at all. If you see it becoming constricted and the growing wood can't stretch it, you can untie. Don't do it too early tnough. Usually by this time it's safe to unwrap, but not always, especially if it's windy. You can also re-wrap for the rest of the season
Hi Steven, I have a few trees that died and the root stock set our some vigorous shoots, these shoots are a couple years old. Is it possible to clip and graft with various grafts right onto these shoots, about 4 to 6 inches off the ground? Can all the stems be grafted onto or should one be left for growth while the grafts are setting? I hear it is possible to split the root balls into a couple new trees after the grafts set. Great series.
yes, you can do that. I'd just pick a few to graft for insurance and cut the others off. You can dig them up if there are any roots, but plant them deep so hopefully they won't sucker. I'd say lower is better, so as low as you can. If they are large, graft in two or more grafts, but better to pick small ones probably.Suckering in the future would be the thing to worry about with that situation. Pick the most separate single stems to graft to and maybe dig the rest out or something like that. Anything that is cut off flush is going to try to grow back every year prety much forever.
These were pulled out of the orchard and put into a nursery of a sort, the root ball is wrapped in a black felt material, planning on digging them up in hopes to use what we can for roots. No harm in trying this, they were salvaged. Great to test different grafts on. Should be interesting, Thanks for the background info, much appreciated.
Oh If they have any roots and you are using them for grafting new trees, they should be more than fine. I geraft to first year stocks all the time with hardly any roots on them.
Short of going through all you're videos do you have a specif video covering how you get your root stock started? Grow from seed, force roots from scion cutting? Purchase root stock. Then there is dwarf root stock.
I want to put 10 or 15 new varieties onto my established full size tree, but I don't want to framework the entire thing. Can I just selectively take off branches here and there and graft the new scions, while still maintaining a fair bit of the original tree?
Yes. One thing that can go wrong though is if there is a lot of the original tree growth adn branches near the new graft, it may not grow. Try to isolate the grafts a little so the tree will put energy into growing them.
In my location buds are already well developing fruits and branches are needing bracing, how are you still doing grafting on your trees? How far north in California are you?
I wouldn't hesitate to pop on a graft or two, but it's pretty late to be working over a whole tree or something. Actually, you might get away with it, but it seems risky. I'm pretty far north and at 1800 feet.
I'm in Northern Arizona at about 5500 ft. so i feel you. I commented before i finished the video. Loving the info and the channel (well your tree working bits at least) thanks for always responding so promptly.
Sometimes. It has to be related and usually closely related. You just have to look at the compatibility information. But, you can't graft almonds on an oak tree or anything like that.
yes, you can and you can put grafts on top of grafts. You may have genetic compatibility issues with some species and varieties. Just like a person may reject an organ transplant unless they are compatible with the donor. But usually you can just try and hope it works. Apples and pears don't exhibit much incompatibiilty.
Hi SkillCut.
I grafted about 30 grafts after seeing your videos and they all took except for about 3 of them. I even grafted 5 different scions onto one tree and they are all healthy. It's been about 3 months and they are looking good. Thanks for your awesome videos.
I like to hear that :) It's such a rewarding undertaking.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video
Thanks a ton for all your videos. I went to RUclips university on all your videos, I really appreciate that you’ve taken the time to pass all this knowledge. I have a 25 year old crabapple that I hope to make more like frankentree this winter.
Thank you so much for making this high quality series. I feel I've gained a lot of confidence to go out to my yard and start experimenting.
Thank you for all your help...very simple explanation of all. Good job. Keep up the good work
I think that's my favorite video of the series so far. I was already familiar with a lot of the other stuff, but there's not that much information on frameworking. Great stuff.
I'm also very interested in seeing rehabilitation of an old overgrown tree. I run into that situation a lot.
yes, I would like to do that video someday if I get access to the right tree and have time. It usually involves some tough decisions. I think it's really unfortunate that frameworking is not more common. Hopefully we can change that.
I'm amazed at what can be done with grafting! Thanks for another great video.
Yes, I think we are seeing the tip of the creative iceberg on grafting. Much is possible. thanks for the comments :)
I tried grafting onto a 5 month old pear seedling this year when it started its second little growth spurt (it was basically only grown indoors under a shop light). I grafted it a week ago on it with whip and tongue grafting (and it was about 8'' tall). It is already starting to grow so that makes me happy it worked.
Great series! BTW - the scions you sent me some weeks back for "BITE ME!" did unfortunately start sprouting in the mail. I picked the four that had some buds that were not fully sprouted and grafted them onto four different trees. Two have put on some large leaves already and are steadily growing the other two look like the buds are about to pop. In all four cases the bark has healed. These were my first four grafts! - two cleft and 2 whip and tongue. Thanks for the scions and all of the info.
Yeah, those were probably the last ones I sent out. I noticed some were starting to push so i picked out the best ones. It pushes early and often pushes in the fridge like it's parent Wickson. Chestnut crab does it too. I'm glad it worked out. I graft stuff like that all the time, like you said, find the best buds and go with those. I've also grafted buds that were showing green though and gotten away with it by being careful about everything else and probably some luck. Then again, sometimes stuff fails and you never find out why. congratulations :)
I'm loving your videos my friend, Thanks for sharing what you do!
Thank you!
I like the idea of your's suggestion that longer scions should be used simply because of the grafted ( scion ) wood producing fruiting spurs and not just vegetative growth. That's something that I never considered when I was top working on an existing tree in my collection. Thanks for the great tip.
I've never done any trials to be sure it works or not, but I think it probably helps a little. It would take a sizeable number of grafts of the same things to get much useful data on that, so I just go with it.
@@SkillCult I'll see what results I have when I'm doing a few rework top grafts in a couple of months. I exclusively did bark grafts last year on the reworking of those trees and I had incredible results. Thanks for the great tips.
Fantastic, I have read your blog on frameworking last year and was looking forward to see this close-up and detailed explanation. I live in the city and my orchard is in another country. Since I can't really irrigate or see what my trees need on a weekly basis, I started (after some failures to get trees established) most of my trees from seed - they just seem to survive better on neglect than nursery trees. Most of them are now becoming large enough to either topwork or framework in the coming years, so I was looking forward to all this detailed info and tips, based on your years of experience. Thank you for explaining everything so thoroughly.
well, I still hope to do something someday with full trees. Maybe a younger tree and a really messed up overgrown tree.
Anther great video. We are all geeked out to plant some trees.
That's great to hear. I love trees. They are amazing and give so much for so little once established.
Amazing videos. Trank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
:)
I love the poppies
They're so cool. those live for decades as perennial clumps. they are called asian poppies I think.
Thanks
Started watching your channel a few months ago, and I am very impressed by what you do and what seems to be the ideas motivating you. I have learned a lot that I will try out in my garden i I ever manage to keep the damned deers out (they kill every fruit tree i plant, especcially apples). Am also pleased to see that your amount of subscribers is growing more rapidly now. Every time this evening that I have started a new video, your number of subscribers is higher. At least 10 more in the last hour. Hope this motivates you to continue making great quality stuff like this (I get a real "zen and the art of motorcykle maintenance" feeling from watching your channel). Thank you for your efforts, and I will definitely recommend your channel to friends and neighbours.
Thank you for that feedback. I appreciate it. I plan to keep it up and seem to come up with endless ideas. We'll see if I'm still saying that in three years lol. Yeah, growing much fast now finally. It took a while, but I don't do the things I should. Getting better at that part. Cheers.
Great info !
I'd like to see more top grafting videos
I do plan to do more, but it just hasn't come together with timing and everything with the right tree. Hopefully next grafting season.
Those poppies!! I don't know what I enjoyed more, the content or that undergrowth!
They are oriental poppies. More people should grow them. They are long lived perennials and even in my hot dry climate, they survive with no care at all. They can form a large mound over time. and will just flower every year. Totally cool :)
That graft @ the 23 minute mark demonstrated, . Best for me a side graft.. Side grafts interest me as an alternative to getting a bud to swell on a trunk
I've had them work well at times, but it can be hard to get good cambial contact.
great video! one question, say you have a younger tree that is 8' tall but with no scaffolds for the first 6 feet or so, lets say its 3/4" in diameter most of the trunk, could you add scions with side grafting onto this bare trunk section?
I actually meant to make two more videos in this series, but never finished. One on miscelaneous stuff like that. If there is a dormant bud or small shoot in a decent position, you can cut a small notch above it to try to force it to grow out. About 1/3 around the shoot diameter, and maybe 1/16" wide or a little wider. If there is no bud, you could try chip budding in a piece. Any way you can fit a small chip of wood with a good bud on it, so that the cambium lines up could work. I did one where I just cut straight into the stem at 90 degrees, top an bottom, split out the wood and added a piece of scion with the same diameter. As soon as it started growing, I notched it and it's not a scaffold branch. If you watch the video I did on summer chip budding with Mark Albert, that is another way to cut them and you can do that now with dormant wood, or in the summer with a mature bud from the base of a current year shoot growth. It might be possible to get a longer scion onto a small diameter branch, but you want to make sure the angle isn't too steep, and that is going to nix a lot of options. I would do one of those two options, grow a shoot and graft it next year, or chip bud a scaffold in, or even both. Even if the chip bud doesn't take, it should heal up and do okay.
Great info
I don't think it was supposed to work this way but I grafted a small branch of my favorite apple tree to a small branch of a scrub apple tree. The branch I grafted on died but within two years every part of the main branch above that attempted graft changed into the type of apple tree I was trying to grow.
That was really useful. I've got an old apple tree that doesn't produce much fruit. I was thinking of taking it out, but now I'm going to try grafting on some scions taken from some fruitful younger trees and give it a new lease of life (hopefully). Thanks for giving me the knowledge and confidence to give this a go! Gerry
Sometimes they just get so overgrown that they need some wood cut out to wake them up and push resources into fewer growing points. regafting to new stuff can do that if you take out enough of the old wood. Good luck. It's lot's of fun. Check out the North American Scion Exchange and the Growing Fruit forum online. Good places to network and trade scions.
Just severely pruning can do wonders. We pruned an old tree that hadn't had anything done to it for 30 years when we moved to our property and were amazed at the result. We would have done more but they were very old and unlikely to respond to a lot of work.
love the shows keep it up thanks.S.D.
Two more of these and we can move on to other stuff. I'm kinda over it, but feels good to get it done.
I love your videos!!? Thank you for all your amazing knowledge!! I just grafted 2 avocado 🥑 🌳 thank you darling!! BTW, I’m growing them in a one gallon container, they’re about 3ft tall and I just grafted yesterday! The weather is about 90* outside and I’m so scared to place my trees in the sun!! I have them inside my apartment next to a window but in the shade! Am I being too overprotective or just crazy!! 😆 Im treating them like if they are in ICU!!! Yup… I’m just crazy 😝
Ha ha, you are not crazy actually. If they grrew up inside, they might get fried in direct sun. You can put them under a little shade for a while, like shade cloth, or jut put them out for 15 minutes a day for a while and slowly build it up. They may be fine too, but usually you'll find out the hard way if you leave them out for a full day or something. Or just wait until spring and let them aclimate slowly as it gets brighter and hotter.
@@SkillCult ok!! Thank you so much!!!
Thanks for the videos!! Great information!
I am working on grafting scions of a different variety to a plum tree for pollination. When should I graft the scions? Before flowers appear or after?
Again, thanks for sharing your knowledge!!
I frameworked a few trees this year and have very vigorous growth (3+ feet) from many of the scions and it's only mid-July. I want them to be strong and they look leggy/non-robust and I want to promote fruiting bud development as soon as possible. Should I just leave them alone, tip them, prune them back significantly? I've done some research and can't come up with much good information on aftercare of successful grafts and future training, i.e. do they benefit from summer pruning or should I leave them alone until the spring? Thanks!
For those last grafts, don't you need to worry about the small angle between the rootstalk and Scion?
I suppose, but with that side graft, it is near impossible to have a wide angle attachment. I could cut it to the very first outfacing bud at the base of the scion and force that to grow straight out. It is not a large main scaffold so hopefully it would be okay. I'll try to remember to look at a few old ones I've done.
Hi. Great info. Question: can the scion be stored in damp vermiculite?
It could, but definitely just damp, not wet. someone sent me some in wet vermiculite recently, much too soggy. If the scion is fresh and sealed in a ziplock, you don't need anything usually. but something damp is okay and helpful for longer storage.
@@SkillCult thank you for replying. I really appreciate it.
Thanks for these videos! Wow. Question for you- is it possible to frame work a newly planted tree? Say a 5' or 6' tree purchased in pot and newly planted in ground? Or should you wait a period of time after planting to try any frame or top grafts? Thanks!
Yes i would do that. It is really not much different than letting a side branch grow.
Love your videos. Wished I would have starred grafting 30 years ago. A question if you would be kind enough to respond. I grafted 8 varieties of asian pears to a 12 foot tall unknown rootstock ( store bought Bartlett pear that died thorned root stool emerged) grafted pears now 42 inch new growth. Should I cut back or let them go
I'd just let them go and do some winter training and pruning. See my vids on training fruit trees for how to insure you get laterals or secondary scaffolds where you want them. Sounds cool. That's a vigorous tree, stop feeding and watering it probably lol.
Thank you
hi ive got a small yard in Ghana which has one existing mango tree about 5 years old, i have 2 different variety mangoes saplings at the moment about a foot tall, in the long run i'd like to graft them onto the existing tree possibly in 2 years time once the young ones are established..... any advice.... which would you consider frameworking or topworking...
I dont' know much about mango grafting so you will have to research details on timing etc. If the stock tree is 5 or 6 years old, I would probably replace the main branches by grafting near the trunk. But depending on how big the stubs of the branches will be after you cut them off. If they are over an inch or 1.5 inches, I might graft further out by replacing side branches, or the ends of branches. They should grow back pretty fast if the tree is healthy.
what type of audio equipment that you use for this video ? , is is wireless , or built in with camera ? thank you
Back then I just had my sony nex5t with the onboard stereo mics.. They have a broad pickup pattern, so they pick up everything in 360 degrees, but for on camera mics, they were surprisingly good. Very few camera mics are that decent. Now I have a panasonic and have to use an external mic. I'm hoping to upgrade that soon. All of it is either in or mounted on top of the camera though so far. I haven't gone to external sound yet, because it's just more equipment, more things to check and turn on and off and remember to do. I may soon though, just to be able to take the sound up a notch.
Hello Steven, I've learned a lot from your videos on grafting and gardening. I have a question about grafting when the scionwood is active (i.e., you collect it in the spring when leaves are on it). Is it possible to do grafting with this kind of wood, and if so are there different procedures one should follow? I have an experiment going on right now with a couple plum trees to try to test this. I sawed a branch off tree A, and then did several bark grafts with wood from tree B. The wood from tree B was active and had some small leaves just emerging from buds (I'm in the pacific northwest and spring is just ramping up here). My theory is that the leaves on the scionwood would normally allow too much water to evaporate, so I wrapped the completed grafts in a plastic bag and sealed it all up. I'll take the bag off in like 3 or 4 weeks and see if the leaves survive.
You might get away with it. It's a neat experiment. Make sure the graft doesn't cook in the sun. You might need some shade, depending on weather. I would probably remove the leaves, and let the dormant buds at the bases of the shoots grow out, but I think your experiment is cool. Let me know how it goes. if the scion doesn't dry out, no reason it shouldn't work.
Can you harvest extra cambion membrane and incorporate that into a graft. So more cells around to help the graft take?
dunno, maybe. I'm not sure it would yield any real benefit, but who knows. try it!
Apples and pears are forgiving when it comes to grafts. Would you attempt frameworking on an apricot , say?
I would attempt it, with caution and a backup plan. Probably 50% or more of the grafts would fail (at least if I did it lol), but you can leave options for the branch to continue growing and just graft it again until it takes. People who have stone fruit grafting down better might have their own way of doing it, but I think if you just leave a contingency plan, you should be good and there is no other reason it shouldn't work. I have a couple peach/nectarines I've done or am doing, grafts fail, but the tree keeps growing.
can you graft diferent varieties of mango to one healthy adult mango tree?
I don't know anything about mangoes specifically, but probably. Sometimes there is incompatibility between varieties of fruit, but usually not. It's the same species, you are usually good to graft.
At 16:00, could you use a t-bud to add a bud to an existing bare branch and get another branch that way? Maybe add a notch above the bud to get the tree to divert energy into the bud to force it to grow?
I think it might be a problem getting it to actually grow out once it were healed. But yeah, notching might make it grow. I have tried that and failed, but Can't remember why. Probably the bud died.
Thanks Steven! I got a couple bud sticks about a week ago of Wickson and King David so I've added all of them at various places on four trees. My plan is to notch above each one about 2-4 weeks before bloom to see if I get anything. I also put a few on some smaller branches that I can just cut off above the bud once I verify it's actually taken and healed.
Notch them before bud swell if you can, or when they just start to swell. Isolation also helps. if there are any extra branches near, cut them off to direct more energy into the bud.
Would a chip-shield or t-bud be better than a side graft?
depends on the situation probably I don't do a lot of budding, but I would probably be more inclined to use the side graft on larger more mature wood and bark and maybe think about budding on smaller stuff.. You could also just do both and see what happens.
@@SkillCult I didn't even think about the thicker bark there.
at 19:26, would about three weeks be time enough for that graft to take, depending on the weather? . this month I'm going to brutality prune an old tree up in the top, about twelve feet from the ground and will be using mostly rind and side grafts, someone years ago planted it to near an active well and there's just little sour green apples on it now, but I'm going to make it my lifes work to get an editable apple off of it. it's so close to the well that for a while, I was afraid to use any fertilizer on it, but then I figured that the well water started at 55 ft, so I'd be safe and everyone that lives on the property buys bottled drinking water anyway although the water tested good.
It can heal enough to start growing and exchanging nutrients and sap that fast if the weather is warm, but it will not be strong for a lot longer.
Do you have any loquats? I've heard that they are graft compatible with Quince, Apple and Pear. After all, loquats are also in the Rosaceae family.
IU have a couple. I've never tried grafting them, but it would be kind of cool to have loquats on part of a tree with apples and pear on it lol. People would be like WTF??
@@SkillCult Yes, especially since they are evergreen in the winter :D
Also, loquats ripen very early in the season, so it would be a way to extend the harvest season of one tree. I wonder if you could get a year-round fruit tree in mild temperate climate this way. Earliest/Mid/late loquats and earliest/mid/very late apples on one tree.
When do you remove the wrapping plastic
It's not important unless the graft is being constricted. Many grafting wraps will stretch enough, that it really doesn't matter at all. If you see it becoming constricted and the growing wood can't stretch it, you can untie. Don't do it too early tnough. Usually by this time it's safe to unwrap, but not always, especially if it's windy. You can also re-wrap for the rest of the season
Hi Steven, I have a few trees that died and the root stock set our some vigorous shoots, these shoots are a couple years old. Is it possible to clip and graft with various grafts right onto these shoots, about 4 to 6 inches off the ground? Can all the stems be grafted onto or should one be left for growth while the grafts are setting? I hear it is possible to split the root balls into a couple new trees after the grafts set. Great series.
yes, you can do that. I'd just pick a few to graft for insurance and cut the others off. You can dig them up if there are any roots, but plant them deep so hopefully they won't sucker. I'd say lower is better, so as low as you can. If they are large, graft in two or more grafts, but better to pick small ones probably.Suckering in the future would be the thing to worry about with that situation. Pick the most separate single stems to graft to and maybe dig the rest out or something like that. Anything that is cut off flush is going to try to grow back every year prety much forever.
These were pulled out of the orchard and put into a nursery of a sort, the root ball is wrapped in a black felt material, planning on digging them up in hopes to use what we can for roots. No harm in trying this, they were salvaged. Great to test different grafts on. Should be interesting, Thanks for the background info, much appreciated.
Oh If they have any roots and you are using them for grafting new trees, they should be more than fine. I geraft to first year stocks all the time with hardly any roots on them.
Short of going through all you're videos do you have a specif video covering how you get your root stock started? Grow from seed, force roots from scion cutting? Purchase root stock. Then there is dwarf root stock.
Oh, I think I found it. #3 Rootstocks!
I want to put 10 or 15 new varieties onto my established full size tree, but I don't want to framework the entire thing. Can I just selectively take off branches here and there and graft the new scions, while still maintaining a fair bit of the original tree?
Yes. One thing that can go wrong though is if there is a lot of the original tree growth adn branches near the new graft, it may not grow. Try to isolate the grafts a little so the tree will put energy into growing them.
@@SkillCult Thank you for the reply! And for all the fantastic information!
In my location buds are already well developing fruits and branches are needing bracing, how are you still doing grafting on your trees? How far north in California are you?
I wouldn't hesitate to pop on a graft or two, but it's pretty late to be working over a whole tree or something. Actually, you might get away with it, but it seems risky. I'm pretty far north and at 1800 feet.
Finished the video, you explained. I feel dumb. Thanks for all the good info even late in the season! Scratching that itch!
I'm in Northern Arizona at about 5500 ft. so i feel you. I commented before i finished the video. Loving the info and the channel (well your tree working bits at least) thanks for always responding so promptly.
can you graft a cutting from a fruit tree onto a completely different kind of tree which doesnt give fruit?
Sometimes. It has to be related and usually closely related. You just have to look at the compatibility information. But, you can't graft almonds on an oak tree or anything like that.
Thanks alot :)
can you graft a scion on a already grafted young tree ? does anybody know ?
I think you can, like they do it in interstem grafts, shouldn't be a problem
yes, you can and you can put grafts on top of grafts. You may have genetic compatibility issues with some species and varieties. Just like a person may reject an organ transplant unless they are compatible with the donor. But usually you can just try and hope it works. Apples and pears don't exhibit much incompatibiilty.
What’s the best time to graft on your trees?
There is quite a bit of leeway, but when you see the buds first start to swell through flowering is a good window.
Wrap the crap out of it ahhaha
"because a bear broke it off" - yikes
Unfortunately a common occurrence around here.
U talk too much
Thanks