This is a very well done video. I am not very handy and would never have attempted this repair without watching this specific video. I used many of the tips you mentioned. You have done a real service in preparing this video. Thank you very much.
I was dreading replacing some facia boards and siding when I thought about using bondo. I've been using it for years for wood projects, but never for an exterior project. A RUclips search revealed your video. I'm really happy to know this works. Thanks for the video!
I've been using Bondo successfully for rot repairs for years. I always line my form boards with aluminum foil or visqueen to keep the Bondo from adhering to the forms and makes them easy to remove. Be sure the rotted wood is perfectly dry first or it will shrink in the sun and pull away from the Bondo.
RON !!!!! GENIUS !!!!! And YOUR the One Buddy !!!!! IT WORKED SO GOOD !!!!! $1,300.00 SAVED TKS2YOU!!! And a BUSINESS-IDEA👍👍👍👍🌲☃️🌲☃️🌲☃️🌲☃️ Merry MERRY CHRISTMAS to You and your FAMILY 👍👍👍😁😁😁☃️🌲🙏👌
Of course it will work for termite damage, any hole. If there's any thought that there may still be some live termites, you'll want to soak the wood with a bug killer, then let it dry before patching.
Thank you sir. I followed your instruction and repaired and painted my fascia boards for less than $70 instead of paying someone $4,000 to replace them. Where should I send the payment for your consulting services?
why not just 1) cut out a piece of a 2x8 or similar sized lumber over-sized for the patch 2) put it over the hole and trace it 3) cut out the traced area with a oscillating multitool 4) place the patch in with construction adhesive where the edges meet up 5) secure with screws countersunk at a 45 deg angle in to the edge of the old material so that the construction adhesive has time to cure irregardless, bondo doesn't seem like a bad idea as long as it doesn't crack long term. won't the wood continue to rot however as you didn't treat it with an anti fungal?
I’ve had good luck by using blue painter’s tape ( sticky side) acting as forms adjacent to the Bondo surfaces, it peals right off. Also, I use a Surform plane to shape the Bondo to the shape that you want, once cured that stuff is a nightmare to sand.
The first thing I do is dig out all the loose or wet wood. I usually use a blower from the air compressor to really clean it out. I don't know that it's a necessity but I also use a rotten wood bonder which is basically watered down Elmer's glue. You can spray that in there it'll take all the loose stuff and just make it hard. So to answer your question yes. I will say it is imperative that you don't seal in anything wet, it has to be completely dry.
@@integrityhomeimprovementin2603I did some research and found that the termites, fungi needs to be killed to stop the spread. What you're doing is sealing in the infection and it will spread. Using a borate mixture with water, ethylene glycol (anti freeze) or copper naphthenate are examples. You don't cover the wound without killing the infection.
Cover the form boards with seran plastic wrap or if on job site don't wanna run to store for seran wrap I use plastic trash bag cut plastic bag and wrap form board with it. If use seran wrap or the aforementioned plastic it's no stick removal of form boards definitely worth the sixty second effort of wrapping form boards with it before installing em it's a breeze
cool vid. Is Durham's wood filler just as good as bondo? I've got a problem with some of my cedar trim where the paint is peeling over knot holes. I need to repair this before painting obviously. Should I just get a spade bit and take out the top 1/2 inch or so of the knots and then fill with bondo? Or should I use epoxy? The other problem is, it's TEXTURED cedar!
check the video at 5 minutes, at the point when the Bondo is just hardening scrape your texture right into it and it'll look just like Cedar,. also no, rock hard putty is not as good as Bondo but if you have some on hand it will work. don't forget your rebar screws!
Only remove that which is loose or wet! Durhams is ok but takes longer to dry, I like that Bondo dries super fast and I can shape and carve it ie wood grain etc, as its setting and soft, cant do that with Durhams...
Not a bad idea, but you are not using the right materials for a lasting fix! - Bondo should not be more than ¼” thick or it will crack - Bondo will crack over time and especially if exposed to heat/cold/moisture - Bondo has little to no structural strength - Bondo has to be sanded to take the outer gummy layer off for paint to stick which makes it not waterproof and leaves a “Flat Spot” on the repaired area. Don’t get me wrong, I used to use “Bondo”, but it cracks & peels over time. Then I used “Bondo with Fiberglass" which worked better, but it still cracks & peels over time. This is what I came up with to repair wood that is non-structural. I buy “Fiberglass Resin” and mix it with “Sawdust” to the right consistency (like oatmeal), then I add hardener & mix well. A Bondo spreader is used to spread it into all the cracks & damaged areas. The larger the repair area, the more sawdust is used to make it thicker, and the large repair areas can be done in multiple coats. I coat all ends of exposed beams whether is needs repair or not, this makes the beams water/rot proof. I This method can be used to repair fascia boards or in some cases I’ll coat the entire board if it has bad cracks. Once the fascia on an entire house that had descent wood that was badly cracked was repaired for a fraction of the cost of replacing the wood. The resin/sawdust will not only fill the cracks, but will essentially “glue” the cracks in the board & keeps it from cracking again. On boards with minor cracking I’ll mix it with less sawdust & use a paintbrush (put paintbrush in fresh resin between mixing to keep it from hardening). I once used a small paint roller to coat a 2”x12” that was constantly wet/mossy that was on top of a wall and now it is waterproof & will never rot! You can use “Foil” to keep resin from sticking to boards that are used as “Forms”, just pull foil/form once resin becomes firm. I get my sawdust from local hardware store from their cut-off saw sawdust bin. Be sure to sand or use a grinder with sanding disk prior to repair, I’ll grind down to bare wood for bad repairs to ensure adhesion. Then sand/prime/paint and you’ll have a lasting repair. - Resin/Sawdust can be more than ¼” thick - Resin/Sawdust should not crack over time - Resin/Sawdust has some structural strength - Resin/Sawdust can be sanded & looks more like wood or rough-cut wood - Resin/Sawdust is “WATER-PROOF”
Thanks for this advice. I am going to give it a try. You have detailed everything very well. You deserve a medal or more for this procedure and amazing information!!
I've never had one of mine crack because of the rebar screws I put in there. If you watch the whole video you'll see how it's all bonded together, I also don't have flat spots as I scratch a texture into it as just before it dries hard to match the wood grain. Then an exterior primer and good UV rated exterior paint protects it.
Bondo does not hold up well in this type of application. After a couple years of hot sun it will start to lift from the wood. The best filler for this is wood wizzard.
This is a very well done video. I am not very handy and would never have attempted this repair without watching this specific video. I used many of the tips you mentioned. You have done a real service in preparing this video. Thank you very much.
I was dreading replacing some facia boards and siding when I thought about using bondo. I've been using it for years for wood projects, but never for an exterior project. A RUclips search revealed your video. I'm really happy to know this works. Thanks for the video!
The Tapcon screws are genius. I will be incorporating that into my regimen. Great video - thanks.
Big patches will be made today on a 48 year old wooden patio cover in NJ . Your video was good . The nails will act as rebar , clever !
Thanks .
That rebar comment sold me.
I've been using Bondo successfully for rot repairs for years. I always line my form boards with aluminum foil or visqueen to keep the Bondo from adhering to the forms and makes them easy to remove. Be sure the rotted wood is perfectly dry first or it will shrink in the sun and pull away from the Bondo.
Ron very great tip to know using plastic screws to hold the Bondos. Thank you for sharing your skills and ideas.
Nice vid. Good job of explaining each step! Thanks for the info.
Thanks, really helpful and no BS.
Hey Ron! I have to do this on the next job. Thanks for the info.
RON !!!!! GENIUS !!!!! And YOUR the One Buddy !!!!! IT WORKED SO GOOD !!!!! $1,300.00 SAVED TKS2YOU!!! And a BUSINESS-IDEA👍👍👍👍🌲☃️🌲☃️🌲☃️🌲☃️ Merry MERRY CHRISTMAS to You and your FAMILY 👍👍👍😁😁😁☃️🌲🙏👌
Great video. I do the same with epoxy putty for ease of installation and strength.
Badest bondo (bestest) available!!! Practical, through and well video
Will this work with termite damage or better to replace the whole pieces, and possibly more around the area?
Of course it will work for termite damage, any hole. If there's any thought that there may still be some live termites, you'll want to soak the wood with a bug killer, then let it dry before patching.
Is there a specific brand of bondo you recommend.
Clever idea using nails to tie in the Bondo. 👍
Great video!!! Thank you.
Thank you sir. I followed your instruction and repaired and painted my fascia boards for less than $70 instead of paying someone $4,000 to replace them. Where should I send the payment for your consulting services?
Glad to be of service! Check out my other videos! We do some out of the box remodeling!
EXACT same thing here !!!! OMG🤯🤯🤯 it's a BUSINESS-IDEA !!! 👍👍👍👍☃️🌲☃️🌲
Did you use bondo wood filler or regular automotive bondo? Sorry for the dumb question.
Not sure but one can use a all purpose bondo that will work with both
why not just
1) cut out a piece of a 2x8 or similar sized lumber over-sized for the patch
2) put it over the hole and trace it
3) cut out the traced area with a oscillating multitool
4) place the patch in with construction adhesive where the edges meet up
5) secure with screws countersunk at a 45 deg angle in to the edge of the old material so that the construction adhesive has time to cure
irregardless, bondo doesn't seem like a bad idea as long as it doesn't crack long term. won't the wood continue to rot however as you didn't treat it with an anti fungal?
Wax paper will keep your forms from sticking.
I’ve had good luck by using blue painter’s tape ( sticky side) acting as forms adjacent to the Bondo surfaces, it peals right off. Also, I use a Surform plane to shape the Bondo to the shape that you want, once cured that stuff is a nightmare to sand.
Did you treat the rot so that it doesn't spread?
The first thing I do is dig out all the loose or wet wood. I usually use a blower from the air compressor to really clean it out. I don't know that it's a necessity but I also use a rotten wood bonder which is basically watered down Elmer's glue. You can spray that in there it'll take all the loose stuff and just make it hard. So to answer your question yes. I will say it is imperative that you don't seal in anything wet, it has to be completely dry.
@@integrityhomeimprovementin2603I did some research and found that the termites, fungi needs to be killed to stop the spread. What you're doing is sealing in the infection and it will spread. Using a borate mixture with water, ethylene glycol (anti freeze) or copper naphthenate are examples. You don't cover the wound without killing the infection.
I can tell you I saw it three years later and it looked the same as the day I painted it...
Cover the form boards with seran plastic wrap or if on job site don't wanna run to store for seran wrap I use plastic trash bag cut plastic bag and wrap form board with it. If use seran wrap or the aforementioned plastic it's no stick removal of form boards definitely worth the sixty second effort of wrapping form boards with it before installing em it's a breeze
Smart. Wish I knew about wood Bondo when I did my house a few years back. That wood patch doesn't work.
cool vid. Is Durham's wood filler just as good as bondo? I've got a problem with some of my cedar trim where the paint is peeling over knot holes. I need to repair this before painting obviously. Should I just get a spade bit and take out the top 1/2 inch or so of the knots and then fill with bondo? Or should I use epoxy? The other problem is, it's TEXTURED cedar!
check the video at 5 minutes, at the point when the Bondo is just hardening scrape your texture right into it and it'll look just like Cedar,. also no, rock hard putty is not as good as Bondo but if you have some on hand it will work. don't forget your rebar screws!
Thanks Ron, are you saying to just fill in the knot hole with bondo without removing the top part of the knot?
Only remove that which is loose or wet! Durhams is ok but takes longer to dry, I like that Bondo dries super fast and I can shape and carve it ie wood grain etc, as its setting and soft, cant do that with Durhams...
I wish you would have shown the actual application of the bonds. Otherwise. Good video.
Fantastic!😁
Not a bad idea, but you are not using the right materials for a lasting fix!
- Bondo should not be more than ¼” thick or it will crack
- Bondo will crack over time and especially if exposed to heat/cold/moisture
- Bondo has little to no structural strength
- Bondo has to be sanded to take the outer gummy layer off for paint to stick which makes it not waterproof and leaves a “Flat Spot” on the repaired area.
Don’t get me wrong, I used to use “Bondo”, but it cracks & peels over time. Then I used “Bondo with Fiberglass" which worked better, but it still cracks & peels over time.
This is what I came up with to repair wood that is non-structural. I buy “Fiberglass Resin” and mix it with “Sawdust” to the right consistency (like oatmeal), then I add hardener & mix well. A Bondo spreader is used to spread it into all the cracks & damaged areas. The larger the repair area, the more sawdust is used to make it thicker, and the large repair areas can be done in multiple coats.
I coat all ends of exposed beams whether is needs repair or not, this makes the beams water/rot proof. I This method can be used to repair fascia boards or in some cases I’ll coat the entire board if it has bad cracks. Once the fascia on an entire house that had descent wood that was badly cracked was repaired for a fraction of the cost of replacing the wood. The resin/sawdust will not only fill the cracks, but will essentially “glue” the cracks in the board & keeps it from cracking again. On boards with minor cracking I’ll mix it with less sawdust & use a paintbrush (put paintbrush in fresh resin between mixing to keep it from hardening). I once used a small paint roller to coat a 2”x12” that was constantly wet/mossy that was on top of a wall and now it is waterproof & will never rot!
You can use “Foil” to keep resin from sticking to boards that are used as “Forms”, just pull foil/form once resin becomes firm. I get my sawdust from local hardware store from their cut-off saw sawdust bin. Be sure to sand or use a grinder with sanding disk prior to repair, I’ll grind down to bare wood for bad repairs to ensure adhesion. Then sand/prime/paint and you’ll have a lasting repair.
- Resin/Sawdust can be more than ¼” thick
- Resin/Sawdust should not crack over time
- Resin/Sawdust has some structural strength
- Resin/Sawdust can be sanded & looks more like wood or rough-cut wood
- Resin/Sawdust is “WATER-PROOF”
Thanks for this advice. I am going to give it a try. You have detailed everything very well. You deserve a medal or more for this procedure and amazing information!!
I've never had one of mine crack because of the rebar screws I put in there. If you watch the whole video you'll see how it's all bonded together, I also don't have flat spots as I scratch a texture into it as just before it dries hard to match the wood grain. Then an exterior primer and good UV rated exterior paint protects it.
thank you.
Good job
hodai
Bondo does not hold up well in this type of application. After a couple years of hot sun it will start to lift from the wood. The best filler for this is wood wizzard.
Super glue🤣🤣🤣🤣
stopped watching because demonstrator requires his face in the camera more than the project.