Workbench Top: My Process For Re-Flattening
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- Опубликовано: 24 ноя 2024
- In this video, I'll walk you through my process for re-flattening my workbench top using hand planes. I'll show you how to remove as little material as possible to maintaining thickness while making the top as flat as the sole of my hand plane. Along the way i will share lots of tips and great information to help you understand my process so you can achieve the same as me.
Hope you enjoy!!
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Just discovered your channel. My work bench is also a Roubo (split top) made of the most economical wood I could afford at the time (Douglas Fir). I'm glad to see that your bench, like mine, shows signs of use. When I see benches like Nick Pedula's or Nick Sawyer's I think I would never want to work on them for fear of leaving a mark. When mine got too beat up, I did what you just did and reflattened. Thanks for your videos.
I agree with you there is no need to make a super fancy work bench unless its being used to show off your work i guess. I just prefer a fairly inexpensive option and get to work not worrying about damaging it.
Good example of cleaning up and flattening a bench top.
I always run a sliding dovetail cross braces under my tops when i dont have other support. I dont glue them. I just make them mallet tight to let the top move and about 1.5" shorter than the width if the lumber is fresh from the home store. Here 2x4s are still pretty wet usually and shrink a lot.
Sliding dovetail braces is a great idea
Thanks for sharing the process. Looks a good and heavy solid bench, would be interesting to see the rest of it.
Thanks for the comment, i am planning to make a video showing an overview of how i made this workbench and also the mistakes i made with the design a long the way.
This is a very helpful video. I’ve made my very first workbench using pine. While my bench does have cross stretchers underneath, I really didn’t know what I was doing when I laminated the bench top. Not only did each 2x4 dried in uneven position (top to bottom), but grain direction doesn’t go in the same direction. I’been using it as it it, aft flattening as best I could, but this video gives me more helpful info to help me do a better job of flattening. My bench top is getting thinner, but Im learning from my mistakes. Hoorah!
I'm glad i was able to give you a few helpful tips. It's never a bad thing to learn and improve, my workbench is far from perfect and has lots of mistakes when i made it.
A large laminated slab top is nice to have but I don't envy you having to flatten a chunk of that size! Mine is traditional English pattern, only 5 feet long and 13 inches wide (with a low, wide tool tray at the back), so it's easy and quick to flatten, though it actually stays very stable being of modest proportions. I like the way you did it, though - don't often see YT channels advocating the use of a #7 (which I would also use on a slab that size). Just one tip, I fitted a hefty central cross-brace between the aprons on my bench (not glued, just blind mortised into both at each end), to keep the slab and tool tray supported in the middle, if that helps anyone thinking of making a bench and wants to avoid the 'gravity dip'. However, like yourself, I didn't pay attention to grain direction when I made the laminated the top and so the original flattening was a bit of a nightmare. Anyway, nice work...!
Thanks for the suggestions
Been putting off flattening my bench for almost a year... Time to get to it! Thanks for the tips on how to achieve this! There is definitely gonna be some reversing grain to deal with
Take your time and im sure it will turn out great
@@AussieWoodshed and it sure did! Almost back to new in under 1h, very little tearout. Thanks for the tips mate!
You wore me our flattening your top lol. Just did mine several months ago. Thanks for sharing your video.
It's definitely a good workout.
Moravian laminated top here. Was going to build a router sled to flatten but started looking at a Stanley #5 I bought for $25.00 an decided to give it a go. It got me hooked on hand tools, I think I have about 70 planes or more now.
Hand planes are addictive, 70 planes is a nice collection. A lot more than i have, that's for sure.
Thank you for your candor and honest videos, heartening to see someone sharing their experience so we dont make mistakes, God bless
My pleasure, glad you liked it
That number 7 plane is awesome mate! Well done. Keep up the great content
Thanks, it's always nice to have an excuse to use the no 7.
The joys of the annual bench top flattening... Did mine last week🤣
Yeah lots of fun, and a decent workout too.
Thats a cool no 7.. i have a no 6. A lot of people crap all over them but I love mine. They say the are prone to warping and that they are a kinda useless, in-between size.. all those people can jump in a turbine. Ive used the crap out of my plane and it works great...
I don't think any of the longer jointer planes are more prone to warping than any other size. I will eventually have one of every size plane, i think they all have their uses depending on the job. I love using my no.6 & 7 when possible even in my small workshop, they're a joy to use.
Thanks for sharing… I made a similar mistake on my bench, not paying enough attention to grain direction, so tearout is common. My bench is now 7 years old and I’ve flatten it twice using an 8, 5 and 3. I recently purchased a #12 scraper and just finished restoring it so I’ll be interested in your follow to tuning and use of the scraper plane.
Thanks, i will put a video together for scrapers
Enjoyed the Video, thanks.
Thanks for watching
Interesting that you were able to use the scraper plane on pine! I have some trouble and I don't get nice shavings using (card) scrapers on softwood (like pine or spruce) while hardwood works great.
My understanding with pine is you need a less aggressive burr, just a very slight one. I could be wrong but i was getting very fine small shavings
Very good demonstration and I appreciate your narrative while you are working. So many RUclipsrs now just record and don’t say a single word. I’m planning on flatten my new bench next week. Although mine is a plank style with a tool well in the middle between two planks. I assume the process is like you said flattening stock before a project. Always enjoy your videos.
Yes, it's the same but just bigger. Also thanks for the feedback glad to hear you're enjoying the content.
I have been thinking and you might be able to do most of the work going with the grain. Because you have the central tool well it might be easier than going across the grain spanning the tool well.
In the event you do have to go across the grain you will want to add chamfers to the sides of the tool well also to prevent blowing the long grain out while planing.
Adhast I say AGHAST!! You used your BARE hands rubbing that oil on! Good show!👍👍
Thanks, as long as the oil is natural, i see no reason to waste using gloves.
I was in high school so a long time ago and a friend of mine’s father built a workbench out of 2x4’s on edge and topped with 3/4” plywood to make it flat, he said to advantage of that was if he damaged one side he could just flip it over and have a “new” top or he could replace it easily to the same effect.
You could definitely do that, but i see it as a little unnecessary.
@@AussieWoodshed I’ve been watching videos about various bench build’s trying to figure out what kind and size I want given my limited space. This would be one solve I’m considering.
That looks like a LOT of hard work.
It was definitely a good workout
Would like to see a scraper plane video. Thanks for this one.
Thanks, i will put one together
Was thinking the same thing. I haven't seen a scraper plane before. Would be interested to see what they are all about. Another great video mate. Well done.
@@Tomkatoz thanks
I would enjoy a scraper plane video, especially thoughts re: its necessity. Can another approach be given to scraping that works just as well, or what makes a scraper plane a useful addition to kit.
I will put a video together
Nice video, just wondered what size shed you have
It's just a small 3m x 4m garden shed and just over 2m tall at the peak. Would be nice if it was a bit bigger especially a bit higher.
You just popped up on my feed ….subscribed
Thanks welcome
Just in time to hibermake lol, nice work & thanks for the video!
Glad you liked it
That is some hard yakka but a good result.
Yep, it's definitely a good workout
Perfect, i made my first bench last year out of cheap pine because thats all i could afford and its gone so wonky, been wanting to re flatten it but im scared of fucking it up more. My biggest plane is a number 6 tho.
As long as the hand plane spans most of the width that should be fine to use. You just might want to do a few checks with a straight edge occasionally if it doesn't span the whole distance.
If you can flatten a board a bench top is not really any different just larger
@@AussieWoodshed Thanks! When I made it I flattened in small sections before the glue up and got super lucky with the glue up so I didn't need to do anything but clean up squeeze out.
I have gotten pretty good at flattening boards now, the bench top is a little more intimidating but I think ill tackle it next weekend. If I remember maybe ill respond and let you know how it goes.
I appreciate your engagement with your viewers.
I would put a strecher or two underneath before planing
You are correct. But stay tuned for tomorrows video where i talk about some of my mistakes when i build my workbench and it will become clearer why i haven't done this.
Good Job
Thanks
What about twist. I'd like to hear your thoughts on the 12 1/2. I have one, because? I know it was more meant to scrape veneer tops.
The twist is a great question and is something i forgot to mention in this video. I removed any twisting in my bench top when i first made it and due to the laminated nature i have never had an issue with it re-twisting. I think this is due to the fact the top is laminated and i also think this could be due to the fact the bottom of the bench top is also held on all 4 corners, which as i said in the video i believe has allowed it to droop a bit in the middle but it does hold the corners and stop them from being able to lift, which i believe prevents twisting.
The 12 1/2 work nice a smooth across the timber when i use due to the rosewood sole, it also takes nice shaving when the burr is turned correctly and is held at the correct angle in the plane.
I have only used it a few times thus far and have only managed very small shavings (but it does leave a very smooth surface). This might be the nature of the 12 1/2 and why its called a veneer scraper plane or i might have it incorrectly setup at this stage. I believe i need to revisit the scraper blade itself and ensure it is completely square across and roll a new burr.
@@AussieWoodshed Haven't tried a 12 1/2 but have a Veritas. Works great on hardwoods but just makes dusty and poor shavings on pine. Somewhere I've seen information that scraper planes and soft timbers are a mismatch. Was it Paul Sellers who said their not much suited to softwoods?
Hard work to flat the top I used the same wood as you but my top is 800mm wide however I have 5 cross beams. Have no issues the top is still flat
Is there not a way you can beef it up
It's definitely a good workout, i possibly could beef it up as you say and will definitely look into it. Thanks for the comment.
Flat and smooth is how I like my benches but not my coffee.
Hand planing is the new aerobics but not hot pants.
It might be one of the earliest forms of aerobics, except no one called it aerobics.
@AussieWoodshed no, that was not a hint for the next video to be shot in hot pants with long metal planes.
Where do you buy your kiln dried untreated pine in Australia?.. bunnings has either dried treated pine(the blue construction stuff- quite expensive), or that horrid sopping wet treated stuff
Yes, Bunnings is not a great place for this type of timber, i picked mine up from a local salvage yard. It's definitely a constant struggle to get decently priced quality timber. I'm yet to find a reliable place to source it.
@@AussieWoodshed cheers ... Im trying my hand at lutherie now and i went to a recycling yard like you mentioned and found some nice hardwoods ... The wood im using for the body is a killer on hand plane irons 🤣🤣 needs resharpening with every 10 passes 🤣🤣 ... Im finding eucalypts fascinating .. if i find a botany course on them , i will try to attend !!!
Have you tried an MDF top or have any thoughts on it? I'm currently designing one with MDF, inspired by a Rob Cosman video i saw and seems MDF has a lot of benefits. That and UK is terrible for timber choice and price
Yes, my first workbench top was 3 sheets of 19mm MDF glued and screwed between the layers leaving the top sheet without screws visible from the top. I edged it with pine to help protect the edges.
The top gave some good weight to the bench, the structure under it needed a few cross braces to support it.
I also put as much oil as it would soak up once complete which made it fairly waterproof but not completely.
The main reason i changed for a different top was so i could use holdfasts.
I still use that same top on the cabinet to the (my) right of the bench.
Hope this helps
Looks a pretty good result. Raw linseed oil or boiled - looks to be raw?
Next work bench I make..... align the grain so they are all the same way. Will also drill some holes along the width at the ends and in the middle then clamp together via threaded rod (counter bored back and front so that nothing sticks out) as well as glued. Thats a retirement project.
Yes the results were good, you're correct its raw linseed oil.
The thread ed rod is an interesting idea, i will have to consider that for my next workbench too.
Couldn't you glue veneer or slices of pine on top and fix the problem oh the low spot?
Possibly, but i think it would most likely peel off. Thanks for the idea i will think about it.
Question for Anyone’s Response: Given this is a workbench top, what benefit does treating with oil provide? I don’t understand why one might want to “protect” the workbench that is simply the surface on which all the good stuff is made. Can the oil then impact surfaces of your workpieces?
Oiling the bench top stops moisture getting into it causing it to warp more and possibly most often. It also allow you to remove glue that falls on it easier and if you sharpen on it any water that might spill, from entering the timber.
Linseed Oil is a curing oil so once it's dry there are no problems with the work pieces. Really any oil once dry should be fine.
Hope this helps
@@AussieWoodshed Yes! I also built a first workbench that has benchtop issues and, after reading your response, I now understand why. Uugh. Live and learn, right? Thank you for sharing insights.
That broad axe is a beast. How much does it weigh?
It weighs just under 4kg it's a broad side axe for hewing logs square. I have ambitious plans to hew my own timbers for a cabin one day.
@@AussieWoodshed thats funny. I'm doing just that. I've finished about 16 8x8s of various lengths. I used a similar axe to yours, It weighs just under 7lbs. I weigh about 165 pounds. My axe is really too heavy for me. It's more work than necessary and hard on the body. I have a smaller one that weighs in around 5lbs and that one is a dream to use. But my smaller one had some issues so I haven't been able to use it much, but it's the way to go for me.. if you haven't seen it, you should check out the video by Dan Dustin "from tree to beam".. he's the man. That was 40 years ago. He has some new videos talking about his different axes. You may wanna check those out, too. I think he calls it "tree to beam plus 40 years", or something like that.
@@timbarry5080 thanks i will have a look