@@AussieWoodshed also come with a fence that works really well. And 2 types of blades 1 straight edge & 1 pointed for edges and corners. Deadset, watching you fiddle with adjustments was painful in comparison to the KM-12.
@@thompsonfamilyhuntingadven4036 not really any fiddling. Loosen the locking collar and lower the blade tighten again. Doesn't get any easier than that.
I hadn't heard them called that before, so I googled it. Apparently the wooden router planes were called granny's tooth planes and some still called the metal versions the same name. Not sure why granny's tooth, i hope no granny's were harmed making these planes. Thanks for sharing this.
@AussieWoodshed Wood work was one of my more enjoyable subjects. My 88 year old mum still uses a step ladder I made. I had to walk home with it, about 3 miles across Ballarat.
Hi Luke, thx for sharing your knowledge. Actually I own a Stanley #71 and I like this tool very much, of course not so often in use but so efficient ... and to share something I did experienced, I had to adjust the depth of pickup cavities in the guitar body of a custom build (special order and very complicated). The router wasnt able to make it without endangering the build (*), BUT the router plane did it so well !!! that I do recommend to have one or at least try one to feel how good can this tool operate and which quality of wood surface it can achieve - obviously with good sharpening for the L shaped blade (*) speaking of that, it was a neckthrough guitar and this gives more constraints to the luthier than with separated body and neck; the router plane was perfect !!
Its my pleasure to share. Thanks for sharing your experience with the router plane. It goes to show some times the old manual tools are the best for the situation.
I just bought an English Stanley #71 from ebay, it arrived today! It is complete with 1 half inch cutter. (no fence) Unfortunately all the adjustment screws are siezed and won’t budge. What’s the best way of freeing them up?
I have had the most success using a penetrating spray such as WD-40 and that has worked for me most of the time. Some times i will use vicegrips or a large screw driver to help move them too, always very carefully to not damage things. A few times i have just left the screw as they are if i cant move them and soaked the tool in vinegar or Evaporust to remove the rust, once out of the bath i had found stuck screws and bolts to be removed much easier. My assumption was the rust seized them up. Hope this helps
Nice video. Can I expect similar blade sharpness when buying a Veritas plane? Is it an issue with the current state of the blade, or is this nearly the best experience you can get when using a router plane?
I'm not sure what to expect from the Veritas Router as I've never owned one. However it will only be as sharp as you make it through your own sharpening i doubt it will be complete sharp out of the box. In my experience the surface is never smooth with most of the woods i use as they tend to be splintery and most of the time the cuts using a router plane are done across the grain. So it really comes down to the type of wood used and ensuring a sharp blade (i will be covering how i sharpen a router plane blade in the my next video) Hope this helps
The Veritas was cheaper than the vintage router plane during the pandemic madness. It's classy piece of kit and has a ton of accessories. Lie-Nielsen also makes a router plane that's a remake of the Stanley 71 and is very pricey. At the other end eBay, Bangbad, etc have stupid cheap router plane shaped objects.
Thanks for that Anthony. I was unaware Lie-Nielsen made a router plane. I think you pretty much covered the main makers and places to get router planes. Thanks again.
The Katz-Moses KM-12 router plane is bloody fantastic. I have one and extremely happy.
Full metal body and extremely easy to adjust.
Excellent, thanks for the recommendation.
@@AussieWoodshed also come with a fence that works really well. And 2 types of blades 1 straight edge & 1 pointed for edges and corners.
Deadset, watching you fiddle with adjustments was painful in comparison to the KM-12.
@@thompsonfamilyhuntingadven4036 not really any fiddling. Loosen the locking collar and lower the blade tighten again. Doesn't get any easier than that.
I thought my wood workshop was small, you seem to just fit in yours 🙂 Great video, cheers 👍
Thanks, yeah it's definitely a bit on the small side, but you work with what you've got. One day I'll get a bigger workshop.
Great series of videos.
thanks, glad you have been liking them
I remember my wood work teacher at tech 50 years ago calling these Granny's Tooth planes.
I hadn't heard them called that before, so I googled it. Apparently the wooden router planes were called granny's tooth planes and some still called the metal versions the same name. Not sure why granny's tooth, i hope no granny's were harmed making these planes.
Thanks for sharing this.
@AussieWoodshed
Wood work was one of my more enjoyable subjects.
My 88 year old mum still uses a step ladder I made.
I had to walk home with it, about 3 miles across Ballarat.
Hi Luke, thx for sharing your knowledge. Actually I own a Stanley #71 and I like this tool very much, of course not so often in use but so efficient ... and to share something I did experienced, I had to adjust the depth of pickup cavities in the guitar body of a custom build (special order and very complicated). The router wasnt able to make it without endangering the build (*), BUT the router plane did it so well !!! that I do recommend to have one or at least try one to feel how good can this tool operate and which quality of wood surface it can achieve - obviously with good sharpening for the L shaped blade
(*) speaking of that, it was a neckthrough guitar and this gives more constraints to the luthier than with separated body and neck; the router plane was perfect !!
Its my pleasure to share. Thanks for sharing your experience with the router plane. It goes to show some times the old manual tools are the best for the situation.
I just bought an English Stanley #71 from ebay, it arrived today! It is complete with 1 half inch cutter. (no fence) Unfortunately all the adjustment screws are siezed and won’t budge. What’s the best way of freeing them up?
I have had the most success using a penetrating spray such as WD-40 and that has worked for me most of the time. Some times i will use vicegrips or a large screw driver to help move them too, always very carefully to not damage things.
A few times i have just left the screw as they are if i cant move them and soaked the tool in vinegar or Evaporust to remove the rust, once out of the bath i had found stuck screws and bolts to be removed much easier. My assumption was the rust seized them up. Hope this helps
Nice video. Can I expect similar blade sharpness when buying a Veritas plane? Is it an issue with the current state of the blade, or is this nearly the best experience you can get when using a router plane?
I'm not sure what to expect from the Veritas Router as I've never owned one. However it will only be as sharp as you make it through your own sharpening i doubt it will be complete sharp out of the box.
In my experience the surface is never smooth with most of the woods i use as they tend to be splintery and most of the time the cuts using a router plane are done across the grain.
So it really comes down to the type of wood used and ensuring a sharp blade (i will be covering how i sharpen a router plane blade in the my next video)
Hope this helps
How to sharpen such blade?
I released a video this week covering this. Here is the link : ruclips.net/video/AmkeMCgscVY/видео.htmlsi=CVSmxh8gdVtg3cKH
The Veritas was cheaper than the vintage router plane during the pandemic madness. It's classy piece of kit and has a ton of accessories. Lie-Nielsen also makes a router plane that's a remake of the Stanley 71 and is very pricey.
At the other end eBay, Bangbad, etc have stupid cheap router plane shaped objects.
Thanks for that Anthony. I was unaware Lie-Nielsen made a router plane. I think you pretty much covered the main makers and places to get router planes.
Thanks again.