I flattened my number 7 on my edge sander. Magic. Took 5 minutes. If you don’t have one then make sure the planevyou buy has a flat sole. Otherwise it’s hours to sort it. Unless you have a milling machine. 😊
My personal opinion is that in the early stages of correcting gross deformations it probably doesn't matter. Correcting gross deformations is really all we accomplished in this round of flattening. Had we been going for a final uniform state of +/- 1 thousandths of an inch, it would be good to have the blade reinstalled.
I had my planes surface ground fully disassembled. Are they a micron out fully assembled? Possibly. Does this mean that you plane flatter than me? Doubtful.
i found its often easier to remove a hollow than a hump in the sole as is often the case when even shooting boards flat. So if there is a hump, i prefer to use a short square of sandpaper to work the hump area down so it just forms a bit of a hollow before flattening as normal. With a hump, it's often difficult to find a flat plane to reference the sole to since it can rock back to front and it takes a lot of skill and precision to keep the plane level within a few thousandths. just chucking my two cents in. this is just how i go about it.
Nope, that was an unintended optical illusion. The smooth surface that you see is the straight edge sitting on top of the sole of the upside down plane. It never occurred to me that it would be hard to see, or else I would have done it a bit differently. Thanks for watching, Mark
I start out with a plane old 10 inch bastard mill file when this bad then finish up on sand paper. Fresh file and makes a quick job.Will need brush to clean file periodically.
Yes indeed, there are some areas on the sole that are more important to be coplanar than others (toe and front of mouth, for example). I think this plane will work fine for the buyer, and he can flatten it further if he so desires.
As I recall, it took us about an hour of physical activity. It is easier and quicker to do the initial flattening, because you are only removing the worst of the defect and there is less metal being removed (only a smaller portion of the sole is in contact with the sandpaper). As you get closer to being flat, it takes longer and longer. As I commented below, we didn't go all the way to perfect flatness, so that's why we only worked at it for about an hour. It will be a bit faster to flatten a corrugated sole, since there is less metal to remove. I don't really have a good feel for the exact difference, I don't think I have ever flattened two identical planes with identical defects where one was smooth and the other was corrugated. Mark
The right way to check flatnesss is with dye chem. Years ago I worked on two brand new Stanley planes to try to make them usuable. The first was an adustable mouth block plane. Flattening the sole was not the only fix it needed. The throat was not square and had to be hand filed. The second was a No. 4 or close to it. After four hours of sanding the center still wasn't flat. A friend of mine owned a grinding shop and ground the sole dead flat. He didn't charge me but said he would generally have charged $50 for it. That was 30+ years ago. He told me the sole was warped. Had it been cast, set aside for 90+ days, then ground, the problem would have been avoided. Then I had to file the throat, grind the blade, etc. Here is what I learned: unless repairing defective and/or old planes is your hobby, or if you are unemployed, or flat broke, you will lose more money in terms of what you could have made at your regular employment than a brand new Lie-Nielsen costs. I still use my Stanley block plane. It works fine but a little more mass plus a thicker blade would be a nice improvement. I used the other Stanley a few times but stopped after I bought the same model LN.
I'd start using a clean, fresh file on the outer ends first, checking my progress as I go. Then I'd switch to the sand paper. Also, the frog doesn't need to be attached to the plane. That's an old wives tale and the Plane Collector channel has proven this.
Agree that it would be a cool thing to test. I think it would require sensitive measuring devices, ie micrometers, and I know mine are too meager for the job.
@@chriselliott726 It does depend a lot on the defect. In this case, the sole was concave and the mouth can't contact the wood in this condition. This will make any plane but especially a jointer plane, very frustrating to use. I know this from personal experience because the very first plane I ever owned was a Record #7 which was even more concave than the one in the video.
@@MarkSLSmith1 I agree. I have had all my planes surface ground. My point is that the difference between flattening assembled and disassembled is infinitesimal.
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Mark thanks for your video Pete from New York
I flattened my number 7 on my edge sander. Magic. Took 5 minutes. If you don’t have one then make sure the planevyou buy has a flat sole. Otherwise it’s hours to sort it. Unless you have a milling machine. 😊
I always flatten mine with the iron in , fully retracted and clamped down, so the plane is under working tension.
My personal opinion is that in the early stages of correcting gross deformations it probably doesn't matter. Correcting gross deformations is really all we accomplished in this round of flattening. Had we been going for a final uniform state of +/- 1 thousandths of an inch, it would be good to have the blade reinstalled.
I had my planes surface ground fully disassembled. Are they a micron out fully assembled? Possibly. Does this mean that you plane flatter than me? Doubtful.
i found its often easier to remove a hollow than a hump in the sole as is often the case when even shooting boards flat. So if there is a hump, i prefer to use a short square of sandpaper to work the hump area down so it just forms a bit of a hollow before flattening as normal. With a hump, it's often difficult to find a flat plane to reference the sole to since it can rock back to front and it takes a lot of skill and precision to keep the plane level within a few thousandths. just chucking my two cents in. this is just how i go about it.
Good advice. I rarely encounter a hump, so my experience for rectifying a hump is limited.
@@MarkSLSmith1 fair fair. Humps are more common in cheaper more modern planes like in my experience and to be honest its rarely worth the effort
Is it just me or was there a smooth bottom plane in the beginning
Nope, that was an unintended optical illusion. The smooth surface that you see is the straight edge sitting on top of the sole of the upside down plane. It never occurred to me that it would be hard to see, or else I would have done it a bit differently. Thanks for watching, Mark
I start out with a plane old 10 inch bastard mill file when this bad then finish up on sand paper. Fresh file and makes a quick job.Will need brush to clean file periodically.
I'm certainly a novice but wouldn't the sand down outer rail areas around the "hollow' be a consideration to its "flatness"?
Yes indeed, there are some areas on the sole that are more important to be coplanar than others (toe and front of mouth, for example). I think this plane will work fine for the buyer, and he can flatten it further if he so desires.
5:52 what was that!
How long did that flattening take? Does that the sole has groves make much of a difference in the time would take?
As I recall, it took us about an hour of physical activity. It is easier and quicker to do the initial flattening, because you are only removing the worst of the defect and there is less metal being removed (only a smaller portion of the sole is in contact with the sandpaper). As you get closer to being flat, it takes longer and longer. As I commented below, we didn't go all the way to perfect flatness, so that's why we only worked at it for about an hour.
It will be a bit faster to flatten a corrugated sole, since there is less metal to remove. I don't really have a good feel for the exact difference, I don't think I have ever flattened two identical planes with identical defects where one was smooth and the other was corrugated.
Mark
The right way to check flatnesss is with dye chem. Years ago I worked on two brand new Stanley planes to try to make them usuable. The first was an adustable mouth block plane. Flattening the sole was not the only fix it needed. The throat was not square and had to be hand filed. The second was a No. 4 or close to it. After four hours of sanding the center still wasn't flat. A friend of mine owned a grinding shop and ground the sole dead flat. He didn't charge me but said he would generally have charged $50 for it. That was 30+ years ago. He told me the sole was warped. Had it been cast, set aside for 90+ days, then ground, the problem would have been avoided. Then I had to file the throat, grind the blade, etc. Here is what I learned: unless repairing defective and/or old planes is your hobby, or if you are unemployed, or flat broke, you will lose more money in terms of what you could have made at your regular employment than a brand new Lie-Nielsen costs. I still use my Stanley block plane. It works fine but a little more mass plus a thicker blade would be a nice improvement. I used the other Stanley a few times but stopped after I bought the same model LN.
At least it was a corrugated sole!
I'd start using a clean, fresh file on the outer ends first, checking my progress as I go. Then I'd switch to the sand paper. Also, the frog doesn't need to be attached to the plane. That's an old wives tale and the Plane Collector channel has proven this.
I have heard that the flexing of the plane when it is properly assembled was a myth, it would be a cool thing to test.
Agree that it would be a cool thing to test. I think it would require sensitive measuring devices, ie micrometers, and I know mine are too meager for the job.
This test?
ruclips.net/video/EAOUxnni3c8/видео.html
Since most planes live their lives with the sole they were manufactured with, are a few microns really worth debating?
@@chriselliott726 It does depend a lot on the defect. In this case, the sole was concave and the mouth can't contact the wood in this condition. This will make any plane but especially a jointer plane, very frustrating to use. I know this from personal experience because the very first plane I ever owned was a Record #7 which was even more concave than the one in the video.
@@MarkSLSmith1 I agree. I have had all my planes surface ground. My point is that the difference between flattening assembled and disassembled is infinitesimal.