Mercruiser Alpha 1Gen II sterndrive gear oil change
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 29 окт 2021
- The steps and products we use to change the gear oil In a Mercruiser Stern drive.
Quicksilver Gear Lube: canadawidemarine.com/products...
Lower Unit Pump: canadawidemarine.com/products...
I've been so nervous about winterizing and I don't know why. I can literally, pull the engine out of my truck and rebuild it, but the boat scares me. You're so calm and thorough and explained so perfectly... I'm thankful. I'm not worried anymore.
Your videos are far and away the best I’ve seen so far
Awesome tutorial mate very well explained keep up the good work 👍
I have a 1993 Sea Ray with a 3.0 Mercruiser and the owners manual is quite confusing. Your videos have been extremely helpful. Thank you for posting!
Thanks for watching!
Mine is 220HP MPI with Alpha1 stern drive as you have. The Mercruiser Operation, Maintenance and Warranty manual that came with it (2007) explains to set the lower drive in full trim out position. When I did that, I got a much more complete drain. Leaving the drive unit down as you did doesn't seem to allow all of the fluid to drain out. The specifications say the capacity including the monitor bottle is 64oz, which is about what I pumped in (including the bottle)
Great video
Another excellent video...many thanks!
Would you be so kind as to consider doing a video on an Alpha 1 Gen 2 impeller replacement and also an inspection of the exhaust risers please? Thanks!
Absolutely. Water pump impeller as well as bellows replacement, and gimbal bearing replacement videos are coming.
I will also do some on manifolds and risers when I get a manifold job into the shop.
Thanks for the suggestions.
Great job , do you have a video for the winterizing a 3.0l merc enclosed cooling system by chance ? Thanks
Thanks Kevin. I don't have any winterizing videos at this point unfortunately. What I'm finding is we are so busy during winterizing season it is hard to squeeze in the extra time to record. But I do plan on getting a couple out over the next few weeks. One will be a general look at winterizing engines which should help with your 3.0 litre.
With a closed cooling system the easiest is to flush the raw water side with RV antifreeze until it is coming out the exhaust. We have flushing kits available on the store. Closed cooling doesn't hold a lot of water so flushing is pretty thorough. My preference is to drain the fresh water out of the heat exchanger and manifold before flushing with antifreeze, that way it is not being diluted.
Also, stabilize your fuel, run the engine long enough to have stabilized fuel in the carb. Change your engine oil and filter, and change your gear lube. We change the gear lube at the end of every season to check for water. We don't want water sitting in the drive all winter causing rust or freezing. And we can then re-seal the drive over the winter if there is water in it.
I also fog the motor if it does not have catalytic converters on it, which yours does not have. Run the engine at a fast idle, about 1200 rpm, and spray fogging oil directly into the carb, (spark arrestor removed), until you get good smokey exhaust. I do this just before and during my antifreeze flush.
Hope that helps a little until I can get some winterizing videos up for you.
Yea it’s a very simple system from the looks of it
Raw water is pumped it in the heat exchanger and then pumped into the exhaust manifold, but I couldn’t find a drain on the manifold at all to drain so with my hand pump clamped on I pumped coolant down the hose until it came out the stern drive ! I did this to both side of the engine, as far as I can tell iam good to go for winter?
Thanks
If you have a one piece exhaust manifold there are two larger drain plugs on the bottom of it. If you have a manifold that has end caps, there is a small 1/8 pipe plug on the bottom of the manifold, hard to see. If it has an allen head drive I usually replace them with a brass pipe plug with a hex head.
But if you have run antifreeze through your system you should be protected from freezing.
My is a 1990 alpha 1. I don't know if mine is gen1 or gen2. My silver numbers are rubbed off. Your decals look different than mine. What's the easiest way to to know the difference is? Thanks. 1990 searay 180 4.3
1990 should be a gen 1, By far the best way to identify is with a serial number.
If you would like to email me a couple photos, and the engine serial number I might be able to identify it further. support@canadawidemarine.com
I noticed gear oil coming out of the water inlet grates on both sides of the lower drive unit. Is that a driveshaft seal on the lower unit or upper unit that would cause this?
That's a tricky one. I would guess it is the lower unit driveshaft seal, just below the water pump housing, leaking gear lube into the water pump housing then out the inlet. I would certainly perform a pressure test to confirm the location of the leak.
Short version of a pressure test: remove the whole sterndrive, this closes the check valve that leads to the gear lube monitor bottle. then pressurize the gearcase through the drain or upper level plug. no more than 5 psi or you'll just push out more seals. watch for a while, I usually leave them sit for a couple few hours. Gear lube flows slowly.
Hope that helps.
@@CanadaWideMarine Thank you for the detailed explanation. I have a pressure tester on order and should be here in a few days. Question, since I am pressure testing the stern drive but not splitting the 2 halves...how will I isolate where the leak is coming from?
you should be able to see where the gear lube is coming from. Once you split the housings it is hard to block the passageway between them to pressurize.
If the leak is indeed into your water pump, once you split the housings and remove the water pump it will be full of gear lube.
Will the gaskets fit a 1991 searay bowrider it has a mericruiser outdrive?
Yes they will.
Question why Is there oil leaking from the weep hole on the front of the lower unit just above the drain hole?
time to pressure test your lower unit and find the oil leak.
@@CanadaWideMarine thank you for your response, the leak is very minute not even dripping on the floor do I still need to have it checked?
if oil can get out, water can get in. water in your sterndrive can end up being very expensive. I encourage you to have it checked.
I hope this does not sound like a stupid question but during the video you repeatedly refer to changing the lower unit gear oil. Is there an upper unit gear oil change? (I have an alpha one, gen2. Thanks!
not a stupid question at all.
The answer is No, there is not an upper unit gear oil change. I refer to the whole sterndrive as the lower unit, I guess it comes from the gearcase of outboards is also called the lower unit.
@@CanadaWideMarine thanks! I appreciate it. Also, I don’t see a gear oil reservoir on my 1993 Monterey 192 with a 4.3 mercruiser. Do they all have them?
Not all models have a gear lube monitor bottle.
@@CanadaWideMarine I just wanted to make sure it was not hidden somewhere. I looked pretty good
Hi, I'm watching your videos and I ask if you can, tell me, I bought a 2001 bayliner with a 5,7 mercruiser motor that is overheated and an emulsion. According to the former owner, he was stranded and left for a long time, cooling with sand was clogged. In general, I really need the advice of an experienced person, I work in the service with a car myself, but I didn't have anything to do with boats. This is my first boat. Where and how to start the repair and what and how it is sorted out step by step. Column alpha 1 gene 2
So, if I got this right your engine overheated and you now have emulsified water in your engine oil.
First we need ro know where the water came from. Is it a cracked exhaust manifold, blown head gasket, cracked block or head? Then we can decide on the best way to carry out the repair.
My advice would be to take the boat to a couple different marine mechanics for assessment. Be prepared to pay each one an hour or two for and assessment, but then you can get some real information to work with about making a decision on the best way to move forward with a repair.
If you don't have any marine mechanics in your area and want to do it yourself. The first thing to identify is where the water is coming in. Then, is it salt water or fresh water.
Let me know and I can suggest your possible next steps.
@@CanadaWideMarine Thank you very much for your response and willingness to help. I work in a car service myself, we repair cars. I think it won't be difficult to fix the motor. But the order in which I pull him out of the boat is still unclear. I guess I need to remove the column first and then pull out the engine? Or is it possible without dismantling the column?
According to the former owner, he exchanged two collectors for used ones. I poured a new oil, but the emulsion appeared again, one more moment! under the load, an extraneous knock seemed like a valve. This is from his words. I plan to completely disassemble the motor and give the heads for crimping. Our water is fresh. I am writing through a translator, so please forgive me for my English))
To remove the engine you need to remove the sterndrive first as the driveshaft slides into a coupler attached to the flywheel. Once the sterndrive is removed, you have two engine mount bolts at the rear of the engine on the flywheel cover, and the two engine mounts on either side. Unplug the main wiring harness, battery cables, control cables and fuel line. you will also need to remove the power steering hoses, from the steering ram. also the trim limit and trim indicator wires are at the back of the motor and easy to miss disconnecting them.
Let me know what you find when you dismantle your motor.
@@CanadaWideMarine Thank you very much for the hint. I will be happy to share with you the repair information. Do you use any Whatsapp Viber messengers? Another small question, if I have problems with spare parts, will you be able to sell them to me and send them?
What size are the gaskets please?
Drain Plug gaskets are: canadawidemarine.com/products/47-2945
0.550" OD, x 0.375" ID, x 0.063" uncompressed thickness.