@PiratePowersports could have at least shown the oil plugs and filters being removed and replaced. Don't need to watch the oil drain, but the parts removal would have been good to see.
All Left side panels - two drains. 1 on the oil tank & one on the bottom of the case near the oil filter. 15ft/lbs torque on the drains, 80 In/Lbs on the covers. One filter on the manual. Buy at your local dealer. I let the oil drain for 20-30 minutes when the oil is warm. Try not to over fill the oil, the engine needs to be a normal operating temperature to check. That means ride it... Don't warm it up for 1 minute and check it. Oil expands when hot! Good luck. Always use torque wrenches
It would be nice to actually SEE the oil change, not just that you did it! See you drain the oil, see you replace the filters etc. not just add new oil.
What panels did you take off? Where is the location of the plugs? Torque lbs? One filter on the manual? Cost of filter or oil change kit? Time it takes? Anything to lookout for?
The info in the comments is very good, but this video needs to be re-shot showing the body panels being removed and the filter cover(s) coming off and going back on with new filters installed plus maybe the drain plug(s) being pulled... no need to see the oil draining out, we can assume it drains well enough. ps. How often should that suction screen be inspected and cleaned? pps. Also does it hurt if the level is a little over full for any reason, given that this is an external oil tank?
On a SE5 the transmission oil & engine oil are one of the same. This is why it's so important to use a quality oil on your Spyder. When changing your oil, add 3 quarts/liters, cover the fill plug, start the engine to pull the oil in then add the 4th qt/ltr. Fully warm the oil, suggest a short ride, pull to a flat surface and let engine idle for at least a minute then turn off the engine and check the oil. Add as needed. Cheers!!!!
While the filter for transmission was mentioned, installation was bypassed. Also, it is important to watch for the o-ring on the dipstick. Very messy if you lose it or strip it out.
BRP has come out with new oil filters to aid in the intervals on the oil changes but everything depends on the engine temperature. If it's hot and you ride in town all day then keep your oil changed. Oil will not last that long in a Can Am Spyder, If you only ride highway you might stretch it out to 7500 with the new filter but be sure to check the oil level every 500-700 miles.
to see fiter been taken out of oil tank and see the other two filters being changed would be good thank you , if your video was an hour , id still watch just so I could learn ,thank you hope you do another .
In reviewing your video and others - a little confused as to the number of filters to change out. I have a 2011 Can Am Spyder RTS-SE5 and the dealer only claims one filter and not a transmission filter (secondary cap shown). I cannot confirm or not the secondary cap - since I have not taken the side off yet. Second - mile duration limits can be as high as 10,000 miles or one year with fully synthetic 10W-40. If information is wrong - I am sorry - but have researched this over the past 1-1/2 months, which differs from your video.
Just did my 2nd oil change on my Spyder SE5. THEN I watched your video. For my first oil change, I spent the $89 for the oil change kit sold by Can Am. It did NOT contain the filter screen you mentioned. I didn't even know about it. Your video isn't completely clear where the screen goes. Does it fit into the bottom of the external reservoir? By the way, think I saved about $33 by buying my K&N replacement filters on Ebay and my T-6 Rotella synthetic oil at Wal Mart. The Rotella is full synthetic whereas Can Am oil is only semi-synthetic.
Update.... Just did another oil change and I found that filter screen. You called it the strainer. It's at the bottom of the external oil tank. It was totally free of any debris inside. Just rinsed its metal mesh with gasoline and reused it. I wouldn't recommend anyone who forgot to look at it have any concern.
@djbridges25 The strainer is in in the oil tank and the torque values are 15 ft/lbs and 80 in/lbs. If you do not have the right tools do not change your oil. It's too easy to strip out the treads on the cases and oil tank.
This Video is designed to show you what you need to use when changing your oil. If you don't have the correct tools don't remove the cover. The SE5 requires at least 45 minutes to completely drain the oil out of the transmission side, too long for a video.
Sorry Terry Bishop, but you are wrong. You'll be pushing it at 3000 miles even with a full synthetic, and I mean a true grp 5 synthetic, not some hydro cracked grp 3 wanna be. But hey, if you want to run 15k on one oil fill, have at it. BRP will love selling you engines......
3000 miles? using Synthetic? you should be able to get 15000 miles easy out of synth.. Maybe do a filter change every 5000, but wtf? why does anyone need to change the oil do often other than to waste your money.
This isn't a how to video on how to change oil on this particular machine... jeez, what waste of my time. This is a video on how to pour oil into your bike.... wow... just wow.
@PiratePowersports could have at least shown the oil plugs and filters being removed and replaced. Don't need to watch the oil drain, but the parts removal would have been good to see.
All Left side panels - two drains. 1 on the oil tank & one on the bottom of the case near the oil filter. 15ft/lbs torque on the drains, 80 In/Lbs on the covers. One filter on the manual. Buy at your local dealer. I let the oil drain for 20-30 minutes when the oil is warm. Try not to over fill the oil, the engine needs to be a normal operating temperature to check. That means ride it... Don't warm it up for 1 minute and check it. Oil expands when hot! Good luck. Always use torque wrenches
Thanks for your video , It helped a lot to do my first oil change on my spyder. You actually explain in a way I understood better than other videos.
Yeah, but never showed how to do the actual oil change.
thanks very helpful! im a harley tech, a can am came in today and i was only able to help him thanks to your video!
It would be nice to actually SEE the oil change, not just that you did it! See you drain the oil, see you replace the filters etc. not just add new oil.
What panels did you take off?
Where is the location of the plugs?
Torque lbs?
One filter on the manual?
Cost of filter or oil change kit?
Time it takes?
Anything to lookout for?
The info in the comments is very good, but this video needs to be re-shot showing the body panels being removed and the filter cover(s) coming off and going back on with new filters installed plus maybe the drain plug(s) being pulled... no need to see the oil draining out, we can assume it drains well enough. ps. How often should that suction screen be inspected and cleaned? pps. Also does it hurt if the level is a little over full for any reason, given that this is an external oil tank?
On a SE5 the transmission oil & engine oil are one of the same. This is why it's so important to use a quality oil on your Spyder. When changing your oil, add 3 quarts/liters, cover the fill plug, start the engine to pull the oil in then add the 4th qt/ltr. Fully warm the oil, suggest a short ride, pull to a flat surface and let engine idle for at least a minute then turn off the engine and check the oil. Add as needed. Cheers!!!!
You should have shown how to do the actual oil change, this video will get someone in trouble. Didn't actually show an oil change.
While the filter for transmission was mentioned, installation was bypassed. Also, it is important to watch for the o-ring on the dipstick. Very messy if you lose it or strip it out.
BRP has come out with new oil filters to aid in the intervals on the oil changes but everything depends on the engine temperature. If it's hot and you ride in town all day then keep your oil changed. Oil will not last that long in a Can Am Spyder, If you only ride highway you might stretch it out to 7500 with the new filter but be sure to check the oil level every 500-700 miles.
Thanks. If you have done an oil change before, the key is to know where the stuff is.
to see fiter been taken out of oil tank and see the other two filters being changed
would be good thank you , if your video was an hour , id still watch just so I could learn ,thank you hope you do another .
In reviewing your video and others - a little confused as to the number of filters to change out. I have a 2011 Can Am Spyder RTS-SE5 and the dealer only claims one filter and not a transmission filter (secondary cap shown). I cannot confirm or not the secondary cap - since I have not taken the side off yet. Second - mile duration limits can be as high as 10,000 miles or one year with fully synthetic 10W-40. If information is wrong - I am sorry - but have researched this over the past 1-1/2 months, which differs from your video.
Oil is cheap compared to the cost of a replacement engine! That's what I've always been told at any rate, and I am a believer. LOL!
Just did my 2nd oil change on my Spyder SE5. THEN I watched your video. For my first oil change, I spent the $89 for the oil change kit sold by Can Am. It did NOT contain the filter screen you mentioned. I didn't even know about it. Your video isn't completely clear where the screen goes. Does it fit into the bottom of the external reservoir? By the way, think I saved about $33 by buying my K&N replacement filters on Ebay and my T-6 Rotella synthetic oil at Wal Mart. The Rotella is full synthetic whereas Can Am oil is only semi-synthetic.
Update.... Just did another oil change and I found that filter screen. You called it the strainer. It's at the bottom of the external oil tank. It was totally free of any debris inside. Just rinsed its metal mesh with gasoline and reused it. I wouldn't recommend anyone who forgot to look at it have any concern.
Hi,i watched your video on the oil change,asking it’s ok to use full Synthetic Motor Oil in a SE5 2013
Good job😊
@djbridges25 The strainer is in in the oil tank and the torque values are 15 ft/lbs and 80 in/lbs. If you do not have the right tools do not change your oil. It's too easy to strip out the treads on the cases and oil tank.
Where do you put the transmission oil, how much? and where can I buy it?
i have a Rss 2014 its is same setup ?
Okay, I will work on that for you... Thanks!!!
This Video is designed to show you what you need to use when changing your oil. If you don't have the correct tools don't remove the cover. The SE5 requires at least 45 minutes to completely drain the oil out of the transmission side, too long for a video.
Is this the same for a 2009?
Yes, All the 998 Engines are the same
Thought I was gonna see how to change it?
Why wouldn't you show removing body panel? Just show what you say you are going to show, No further info necessary.
Sorry Terry Bishop, but you are wrong. You'll be pushing it at 3000 miles even with a full synthetic, and I mean a true grp 5 synthetic, not some hydro cracked grp 3 wanna be. But hey, if you want to run 15k on one oil fill, have at it. BRP will love selling you engines......
Wasted 5:43 of my time...should have known by looking at the thumbs down..
Show vd bm claro.
so basically we know it's doable .. but you show nothing of the procedure ...
weird. Don't do any more.
3000 miles? using Synthetic? you should be able to get 15000 miles easy out of synth..
Maybe do a filter change every 5000, but wtf? why does anyone need to change the oil do often other than to waste your money.
What the hec told a little , didn't show shit //
I have to state does not show much. really poor job of showing an oil change.
This isn't a how to video on how to change oil on this particular machine... jeez, what waste of my time. This is a video on how to pour oil into your bike.... wow... just wow.
Useless
Be sure to view your own video's before you make comments...