This is such a smart way to make trays that’s a few extra steps in one way, but saves materials and saves one from having to hog out all that material. Thank you for taking the time to make this.
I used your instructions to build one, it came out great. Loved not having to plow through all those cubic inches of lumber, turning them into waste and air pollution in my shop! I used cherry and maple for a softer look. Great project, thanks for posting, this is great.
That turned out really nice Paul! 👍🏻 Never seen one made like that before! Sure beats the heck out of hogging all that material out with a router! Thank you for sharing!
I've watched many of your vids and shamelessly copied your creations as best as my limited abilities allows, but this one is hands down, my favorite! Gonna try and make one! Thanks for sharing!
Amazing! That tray is f***ing amazing and I’m so jealous at all of your tools. I don’t have a bandsaw, but I do have a jigsaw... if I buy a good blade, I’m sure I can come close to what you’ve accomplished
Thanks for this... New subscriber and I really love this idea... This approach is kind of a "no duh" light bulb moment when you see you execute it. Sometimes we really overthink things in the shop! Look forward to building a few of these. Till your next video, thank you sir!
This design is optimized for material efficiency, not time efficiency. For speed I’d say use the more traditional design where you use a router to dish out the waste.
Great work on that serving tray Paul! If I made one of those trays I would add a few contrasting dowels to the ends that are glued on for additional strength & esthetics. Also some rubber feet for each of the bottom corners. 👍👍😉😉
Hi Steve, thanks for the suggestions. I don't believe that additional strength is needed on the end joints, but that would add a nice look. I should have mentioned in the video that I am planning to add feet. I was waiting to get my laser engraving instructions, then after engraving I apply one more coat of finish, then the feet go on. I did source the feet that I use in the description.
Hey Paul! New subscriber here! What a great idea! Absolutely love it! Have a buddy who grills a lot for us. Will be a perfect gift for him, and her. Will also make a lazy Susan to match.
Great tutorial Paul. I’m definitely going to make one but need to know what depth wood you used? You gave the length and width but not the depth. It looks to be 3/4” but not sure.
Love the method and the end product. Looks stunning. One thing I might do is to make the handle concave on the underside centre to help in gripping the handles. Although I am not sure that would be a problem?
Thanks for the video. I made one for an engagement gift - and they say it’s too good to use…. I thought it might have been a little heavy. What thickness of base do you recommend?
It depends on the overall dimensions. I do feel that the bottom is a bit on the thicker side. I sometimes run the bottom through the planer a few times to lighten it up a bit after cutting off the pieces that get glued on top. That way the pieces that get glued on don’t sacrifice any height.
Thanks for showing this method. It is definitely more approachable than hogging out with a router or other tools. Do you think it would be sturdy enough to work as a "breakfast in bed" tray if the glued on sides had enough height/material below the top for a pair of legs?
Hi Daniel, thanks for watching. Yes, absolutely, this has a 3/4" bottom and is much stronger than the typical breakfast in bed tray so I think it would work great. Nice idea. Cheers, Paul
First time seeing this method used and I love the idea. Definitely have been looking to do a serving tray and I like the idea of not having to remove the material and rather build it up. One question though, why the poly finish ? Did you only use that on the outer material ? I have always stayed away from poly if it involves food.
Hi Michael, thanks for sharing your feedback. Poly is one of the most durable and moisture resistant finishes that you can use for service items that are not used for direct food contact such as as serving tray or kitchen table. Poly becomes non-toxic in about 30 days so it will not hurt the food if it touches the serving tray in the same way that it would be OK if food touches your kitchen table. That said if you want to use the piece for ongoing direct food contact as you would a cutting board or charcuterie board then it would make sense to use a finish that can be rejuvenated more easily without causing the 30 day delay for the finish to cure. Mineral oil or butcher block finish are good options for that type of application.
Hey great video and terrific tray! I’m just wondering if you ever had any issues with exp/contraction since the sides are constraining the cross grain of the tray. Thank you
Thanks. I haven’t had any issues because there is no cross grain joinery in this piece whatsoever. All the grain runs in the same direction so as to avoid the problem that you are asking about.
Hi Randy, that's a great question, and I'm glad that you asked. These thin rips often require removal of the guard with conventional approaches. My preference is to leave the blade guard in place for as many cuts as possible, and the sled that I used allows for that. The simple jig that you see in this video is explained further in this jig: ruclips.net/video/Sd8KLMYNQ5w/видео.html . And if you watch that, I'll give you extra credit if you can identify the person in the video. :)
Thank you, Alehar. The final dimensions of the tray are approximately 12 x 20 including the handles. Here is a link to the poly that I used: amzn.to/2FhLSvn
Hi Paul and thanks for that nice video/ idea. Regarding the finish- Why not using the Odie's Oil, which is food safe and gives an ultra-durable beautiful finish instead of toxic polyurethane?
Hi Assaf, you could certainly use Odies on this; it's a great product. For projects that require direct food contact and frequent refresh of the finish I use butcher block conditioner and mineral oil. With those types of products, you can use immediately after application. For projects like this (trays, tables, etc) that are not used for direct food contact, I use poly as it offers more durability, and would never require the finish to be refreshed through normal use. Poly is toxic until it cures, which is about 30 days under most conditions.
BEEN IN WOODWORKING FOR 70 YEARS - TEACHING CABINETMAKING FOR 45 YEARS - HIGH SCHOOL/COLLEGE - SUGGESTION: YOU SHOULD "RAISE THE GRAIN" PRIOR TO ADDING FINISH - 7:22. ESPECIALLY ON HARDWOODS - THIS MAKES SURE ANY FINISH ADDED DOES NOT "RAISE THE GRAIN" - THIS PROCESS INVOLVES WETTING THE WOOD - RAISING THE GRAIN - SANDING - RAISING THE WOOD - SANDING - UNTIL THE GRAIN NO LONGER RAISES ANY HIGHER - FINALLY ADD YOUR FINAL TOP COAT - - THE SANDPAPER GRITS SHOULD INCREASE WITH EACH RAISING: 80 - 120 - 180 - 220 - 400 ALSO, YOUR METHOD OF APPLYING YOUR FINAL COAT SITS ON THE SURFACE AND COULD BE WORN OFF FASTER - I HAND RUB "TUNG" OIL ON MY PROJECTS(OLD SCHOOL "FRENCH POLISH" TECHNIQUE) LOST ART - MY FINISH IS "IN THE WOOD" AND NOT "ON THE WOOD"
No, that’s actually not correct. The finish is safe for food contact after it cures which is approximately 30 days. So you could serve food directly on it if you wanted to although normally with a serving tray you would have dishes placed on the tray rather than setting the food directly on the tray as you would with a charcuterie board.
This is such a smart way to make trays that’s a few extra steps in one way, but saves materials and saves one from having to hog out all that material.
Thank you for taking the time to make this.
My pleasure Aaron. Thanks for watching. Cheers, Paul
I hate all the waste that router methods leave. Love this method.
@f.kieranfinney457 thank you
I used your instructions to build one, it came out great. Loved not having to plow through all those cubic inches of lumber, turning them into waste and air pollution in my shop! I used cherry and maple for a softer look. Great project, thanks for posting, this is great.
Thanks for your report! Cheers
this is genius - easiest way I have found to keep it looking professional while using different strips of wood
thank you, Ken! Cheers, Paul
thanks !!!!!with this video and the great description I was able to recreate the tablet exactly like yours. My wife already loves it.
Awesome! Thanks for sharing your experience here.
That turned out really nice Paul! 👍🏻 Never seen one made like that before! Sure beats the heck out of hogging all that material out with a router! Thank you for sharing!
Thanks Bill!
Wow this is by far the best video I've seen on making a tray! 2 thumbs up indeed! 👍🏿👍🏿
Thanks, Random! I appreciate the feedback. Cheers, Paul
What a great idea to save on both time and material. A+
Thank you 🙏!
I just finished making this! Great step by step instructions.
Thanks Mike! 🙏
Great design, easy to follow. Thanks very much for posting!
Thank you 🙏!
I've watched many of your vids and shamelessly copied your creations as best as my limited abilities allows, but this one is hands down, my favorite! Gonna try and make one! Thanks for sharing!
Wow, thanks Mark. Appreciate the feedback!
That was really nice mate.been thinking about making a tray,but cant be bothered with all the routering.very nice indeed
Thanks for the feedback, Mick. Cheers
Dude this is awesome!!!!!
Thank you Earl!
I just bought a bigger Router and I now want to make this one first lol nice work!
Probably a lot faster to make with a router. Good to have both options. Make both and let me know what you think. Cheers
Really enjoyed this method of no waste, your project turned out very nice! Nice to find your channel 💯
Thank you Rachel 🙏
Beautiful craftsmanship! Thank you for sharing your time and talent.
Thanks Derek 🙏
Hey Paul, made after my own thoughts about saving precious materials. Thanks!
Awesome! Thanks for the feedback Doc. Cheers, Paul
Great technique! The "normal" way wastes so much wood... Beautiful tray :)
Thanks Kyle! 🙏
Amazing! That tray is f***ing amazing and I’m so jealous at all of your tools. I don’t have a bandsaw, but I do have a jigsaw... if I buy a good blade, I’m sure I can come close to what you’ve accomplished
Hi Robert, thanks. I’ve used a jigsaw for this and it works just as well. Best of luck and thanks for watching. Cheers, Paul
Great idea, do some more like this.
Thanks Jack
Thanks for this... New subscriber and I really love this idea... This approach is kind of a "no duh" light bulb moment when you see you execute it. Sometimes we really overthink things in the shop! Look forward to building a few of these. Till your next video, thank you sir!
Thanks for the feedback and for the sub. Cheers, Paul
Love it will have a go at it hope it looks as good
Thanks Roy! Best of luck. I have every confidence that it will turn out great. 👍
Love it. So much better than routing !
Thanks Diana! 🙏
I think I am going to try and make one of these when I get some time!
Hi Frank, that’d be quite an honor sir. Cheers, Paul
Great.
How to make this tray in numbers in a limited time
This design is optimized for material efficiency, not time efficiency. For speed I’d say use the more traditional design where you use a router to dish out the waste.
I think it is beautiful. Enjoyed your video!
Thanks 🙏
Great job explaining everything thank you
Thanks for watching!
You have put together a GREAT Serving tray. I really like your
design. I like the way you thing. I will subscribe. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for sharing your feedback with me, Rick. And thanks for the sub. Cheers, Paul
Really nicely done
Thank you 🙏
Excelente!!! Umabraço de um seguidor do Brasil! Wonderfull! Greetings form Brazil!
Thank you 🙏
Nicely done and great explanation
Thank you kindly!
Great design. Thanks.
Thanks for watching, Steve. Cheers, Paul
Great work on that serving tray Paul! If I made one of those trays I would add a few contrasting dowels to the ends that are glued on for additional strength & esthetics. Also some rubber feet for each of the bottom corners. 👍👍😉😉
Hi Steve, thanks for the suggestions. I don't believe that additional strength is needed on the end joints, but that would add a nice look. I should have mentioned in the video that I am planning to add feet. I was waiting to get my laser engraving instructions, then after engraving I apply one more coat of finish, then the feet go on. I did source the feet that I use in the description.
Hey Paul! New subscriber here! What a great idea! Absolutely love it! Have a buddy who grills a lot for us. Will be a perfect gift for him, and her. Will also make a lazy Susan to match.
Hi Jeff, Thanks for subscribing, and sharing your feedback here. Cheers
Great looking project!
Thanks Pete!🙏
Great design!
Thanks, Steve!
If you make the two edge boards a couple inches longer on each end, the extra length will take any snipe from the planer. Then just trim the ends off.
That would require 8" extra for my planer to accommodate both sides. I use a leader/trailer sacrificial board and it works great.
Very nice job 👍
Thank you Michael!
Nice design
Thanks for watching 🙏
great tutorial thank you
Glad you found it helpful
love it!!! great skillz....
Thanks Corey! 🙏
Beautiful
🙏
Thank you 👍👍
Welcome 👍
That looks like a Shark Guard on your table saw. Nice video by the way!
Thanks 🙏. Yep that’s a Shark Guard. Very nice product. There’s a video on my channel on the Shark Guard.
Interesting idea, thanks.
Thanks Derek.
مااجمل عمل الايادي فهو اقدس عمل وفقك الله
شكرا لك على كلماتك الرقيقة يا صديقي.
@@ToolMetrix اهلا بك يا اخي وفقك الله لخدمة ابنائك
well done!
Thank you sir 🙏
Great tutorial Paul. I’m definitely going to make one but need to know what depth wood you used? You gave the length and width but not the depth. It looks to be 3/4” but not sure.
Hi Scott, you're correct; I typically use 3/4" stock for these.
Nice method
Thank you 🙏
Love the design. What about the ploy and it not being food safe? Or were you no intending this to be for serving food?
It’s food safe after the finish cures, so roughly 30 days. But it’s not really intended for direct contact with food.
Love the method and the end product. Looks stunning. One thing I might do is to make the handle concave on the underside centre to help in gripping the handles. Although I am not sure that would be a problem?
It won’t be a problem. Several people have done that.
When I need to draw curves on my various woodworking projects I use the zero clearance inserts that come with my oscillating spindle sander.
That’s a great idea. Thanks!
Thanks for the video. I made one for an engagement gift - and they say it’s too good to use…. I thought it might have been a little heavy. What thickness of base do you recommend?
It depends on the overall dimensions. I do feel that the bottom is a bit on the thicker side. I sometimes run the bottom through the planer a few times to lighten it up a bit after cutting off the pieces that get glued on top. That way the pieces that get glued on don’t sacrifice any height.
Thanks for showing this method. It is definitely more approachable than hogging out with a router or other tools. Do you think it would be sturdy enough to work as a "breakfast in bed" tray if the glued on sides had enough height/material below the top for a pair of legs?
Hi Daniel, thanks for watching. Yes, absolutely, this has a 3/4" bottom and is much stronger than the typical breakfast in bed tray so I think it would work great. Nice idea. Cheers, Paul
First time seeing this method used and I love the idea. Definitely have been looking to do a serving tray and I like the idea of not having to remove the material and rather build it up. One question though, why the poly finish ? Did you only use that on the outer material ? I have always stayed away from poly if it involves food.
Hi Michael, thanks for sharing your feedback. Poly is one of the most durable and moisture resistant finishes that you can use for service items that are not used for direct food contact such as as serving tray or kitchen table. Poly becomes non-toxic in about 30 days so it will not hurt the food if it touches the serving tray in the same way that it would be OK if food touches your kitchen table. That said if you want to use the piece for ongoing direct food contact as you would a cutting board or charcuterie board then it would make sense to use a finish that can be rejuvenated more easily without causing the 30 day delay for the finish to cure. Mineral oil or butcher block finish are good options for that type of application.
What kind of wood did you use? Thank you..
Walnut and maple
Just found your site, very beautiful tray. I have a question, when did you sand the tray and did you round over the inside edge?
Thanks Chet. I sanded after glue up. Yep I rounded over the inside edge.
Saludos cordiales. Excelente trabajo felicitaciones.
Una consulta que marca de pegante utiliza muchas gracias
Gracias por sus amables palabras. El pegamento que utilizo es Titebond 3
Is the darker wood just a stained wood or is it a different type of wood? And if so, which type is it?
Hi Mike, there’s no stain used. The dark wood is black walnut. Cheers.
Currently making this...did you round over the top of the 3/8" strips that make up the sides? Thanks!
Just with a sander after assembly. You probably could do it before assembly but be careful to not round over in the area of the glue joint.
@@ToolMetrix thank you, new subscriber...love the channel!
Thanks 🙏
Hey great video and terrific tray! I’m just wondering if you ever had any issues with exp/contraction since the sides are constraining the cross grain of the tray. Thank you
Thanks. I haven’t had any issues because there is no cross grain joinery in this piece whatsoever. All the grain runs in the same direction so as to avoid the problem that you are asking about.
I see you used the Titebond for the outside radius. That's cool, but I only have Titebond 2. Is that good enough?
Absolutely. No concerns whatsoever. I would not even hesitate to use titebond original for this.
The light wood is Maple. What is the dark wood?
Walnut
noobie question. Why did you use a board against the fence and then your walnut?
Hi Randy, that's a great question, and I'm glad that you asked. These thin rips often require removal of the guard with conventional approaches. My preference is to leave the blade guard in place for as many cuts as possible, and the sled that I used allows for that. The simple jig that you see in this video is explained further in this jig: ruclips.net/video/Sd8KLMYNQ5w/видео.html . And if you watch that, I'll give you extra credit if you can identify the person in the video. :)
good
Thanks 🙏
Very nice tray! What were you demensions?
I can’t remember exactly but about 12x17
X 1.5” tall
Good job. Can you give the dimensions of the tray and a link to polyurethane ?
Thank you, Alehar. The final dimensions of the tray are approximately 12 x 20 including the handles. Here is a link to the poly that I used: amzn.to/2FhLSvn
@@ToolMetrix Thank you very much. Best wishes
Ficou top demais
Thank you for watching.
Ah ha... another approach. Thanks.
Yep! Gotta try new approaches!
Hi Paul and thanks for that nice video/ idea.
Regarding the finish-
Why not using the Odie's Oil, which is food safe and gives an ultra-durable beautiful finish instead of toxic polyurethane?
Hi Assaf, you could certainly use Odies on this; it's a great product. For projects that require direct food contact and frequent refresh of the finish I use butcher block conditioner and mineral oil. With those types of products, you can use immediately after application. For projects like this (trays, tables, etc) that are not used for direct food contact, I use poly as it offers more durability, and would never require the finish to be refreshed through normal use. Poly is toxic until it cures, which is about 30 days under most conditions.
Thanks Paul!
Keep on these awesome videos rolling :)
Thanks 🙏!
Sorry about that. I meant to say that I really like the way you think,
I kinda figured that but thanks for clarifying, Rick.
BEEN IN WOODWORKING FOR 70 YEARS - TEACHING CABINETMAKING FOR 45 YEARS - HIGH SCHOOL/COLLEGE - SUGGESTION: YOU SHOULD "RAISE THE GRAIN" PRIOR TO ADDING FINISH - 7:22. ESPECIALLY ON HARDWOODS - THIS MAKES SURE ANY FINISH ADDED DOES NOT "RAISE THE GRAIN" - THIS PROCESS INVOLVES WETTING THE WOOD - RAISING THE GRAIN - SANDING - RAISING THE WOOD - SANDING - UNTIL THE GRAIN NO LONGER RAISES ANY HIGHER - FINALLY ADD YOUR FINAL TOP COAT - - THE SANDPAPER GRITS SHOULD INCREASE WITH EACH RAISING: 80 - 120 - 180 - 220 - 400 ALSO, YOUR METHOD OF APPLYING YOUR FINAL COAT SITS ON THE SURFACE AND COULD BE WORN OFF FASTER - I HAND RUB "TUNG" OIL ON MY PROJECTS(OLD SCHOOL "FRENCH POLISH" TECHNIQUE) LOST ART - MY FINISH IS "IN THE WOOD" AND NOT "ON THE WOOD"
Thanks for watching and sharing your ideas.
So that’s a serving tray, and you used poly to finish, so the surface isn’t food safe. Correct?
No, that’s actually not correct. The finish is safe for food contact after it cures which is approximately 30 days. So you could serve food directly on it if you wanted to although normally with a serving tray you would have dishes placed on the tray rather than setting the food directly on the tray as you would with a charcuterie board.
Better way to make serving trays is with vertical handles with holes
Nah
Diverse ideas..
🙏👍