C32 /SRT6 supercharger rebuild / rear bearing replacements
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- Опубликовано: 5 фев 2025
- DONT FORGET TO DRAIN THE SUPERCHARGER OIL FIRST. Forgot to say this in the video but it’s very important.
Taking apart and replacing the rear bearing in my C32. Not a professional video or anything, just documenting the process as I go through it. It was really a lot easier than I expected, the biggest time waster is removing the clutch plate and hammering off the front half of the supercharger, but if I knew what I was doing this whole job would only take around 2 hours. I recommend a good blowtorch with an accurate flame, if you spend too much time heating the wrong thing the parts will become stuck and you’re screwed.
Edit: I have done this job again with the supercharger attached to the car. The procedure is exactly the same, except you might have to remove the oil cooler and a small solenoid in front. But it’s exactly the same procedure, and once you get the rotors out you can do everything else off the car. In order to get the bearings on I froze the rotor pack for 2 hours and hammered them on and used a 17mm socket on the inner race to hammer them fully in, then replaced the snap ring. So far so good, the rebuild was a success.
Edit 2: I wanted to add some more information on this. When replacing the clutch plate, you need to make 100% sure that the pin holes line up perfectly or you’ll have to pull it off and redo it, I had to redo it twice in order to get them to line up, and I wasn’t able to get the pins back in even after freezing them so I went to Home Depot and bought M4 size screws and hammered those into the pin slots instead, they’re holding fine so far, if they fail I’ll update this. In order to heat up the clutch plate I first put it into the oven at 200°F, but that wasn’t enough so I used my blowtorch on it. You only need to heat up the very front of the snout, don’t worry about heating the rear part. Then, place the snout onto the front of the supercharger, if you have the proper heat it should get “stuck” on the front and you can then hammer it on MAKING SURE THE PIN HOLES ARE LINED UP. If you notice the pin holes are crooked pull it off with your pulley puller before it cools down and try again.
The supercharger may feel a little stiff at first with the fresh oil and bearing, but just hook up the rest of your pulleys and attach the belt and after one drive it’ll spin like it used to. It’s just because the supercharger oil is pretty thick and takes time to become more viscous, paired with the fact that there’s no airflow in the engine with it off, so don’t worry if the supercharger feels like it’s spinning harder than it used to, it’ll free up after 1 drive. Other than that, you should have a beautifully running supercharger that isn’t rattling or scraping itself to death. The hardest part is the clutch plate, it’s designed to be impossible to rotate so it basically glued itself to the supercharger when it cools down and contracts.
Link to the bearings: www.ebay.com/i...
The video about removing the front clutch plate: • How to remove the clut...
I posted a lot of information I didn’t cover in the video in the description.
Hey thanks for the Video man , mine is dying out and making a scraping noise will do it next week.
What did the bad bearings sound like in the car? I have a C32 that makes a growling/scratching/grinding noise under certain conditions and I think it’s the rear bearings because I already replaced the pulley bearing.
Just a scraping noise in the back of the blower. Use a screwdriver or mechanics stethoscope to see where exactly the sound is coming from.
@@ginco_bnz thanks bro 👍🏻
Thanks for the video on rebuilding Mercedes superchargers .
My 1999 C230 K makes a noise similar to the one in this video: 👇
ruclips.net/user/shortsXgjhlLkP8CA?si=i8sqa7SbH5wqMwQu
Could you please help me identify what this noise might be coming from?
Any info on the sleeves in the coupler?! Ive got to change mine theyve been chewed thru..
I did not heat my bearings I soaked them in the tears of angelic virgin cherubs.
same bearings for the M113K?
Anyone have a link for the front snout seal?
Hi MB friend, thanks for the video and for making this process simple. Can you share the link to the company where you purchased the seal for the clutch drive shaft. And if you have a part number, please share. Thanks in advance 👍
what are you talking about
Hey man where’d you get your supercharger pulley? I’ve been looking for a good one and can’t find one for an 03 c32
Vtech Georgia makes the best pulleys and tunes
How has it been since you replace the bearings is it still operating as design ?
I don’t have it anymore but the new owner says it’s great
Have u done the job inside the vehicle yet? Wondering if I should remove the sc or go for glory and leave it in car
Yes, I did it in the car. I wrote about it in the video description so check that out. It really wasn’t all that bad, you might have a little bit of a tough time wiggling the rotor pack out but it’s not that difficult.
You think this can work on my 01 e320
Seriously? This is a rebuild for a supercharger. Does your 01 e320 have a supercharger? No? Then why are you asking me.
@@ginco_bnz just asked simple question!! And it’s possible after conducting notes
When he said "Obviously he knows what he's doing better then me" is absolutely right only helpful advise here, lmfao who Tf puts a scatter shield on a fixed pulley oh lord just stop it already 🤣👎
I swapped between pulleys regularly when I wanted to race the car, the fixed pulley was more for fun. And I thought it looked cool on the car so I kept it on, it's not that deep dumbass.
That’s my dead blow 😳
No it isn’t
@@ginco_bnz cap