Great video. When he says only photo in the world on the low fuel pressure sensor, that is the understatement of a lifetime. Spent 6 hours to confirm I had the correct answer before taking apart the engine bay. Thank you for all the great information.
Can confirm. After pursuing everywhere ELSE the low fuel pressure sensor said it WAS, I followed the fuel lines from the tank to the side of the transmission and there it was, behind the heat shield.
You’ll need two pair of locking pliers for the sensor. After disconnecting the battery and removing the heat shield on the passenger side, disconnect the sensor and install the new one.
@@SIFmbtech2012 I have code P0627 which says about low pressure fuel pump circuit open. The car starts for 5 seconds then stops . I changed the in tank pump two years ago. Would that be anything other than this low pressure sensor ?!
@@alisuta2001just like the instructor says in the video. I’d start with the cheaper part like the sensor before moving on to the more expense repairs. I’m an amateur mechanic so I’m just saying where I’d start. I don’t know if it’ll solve your issue.
I give a true advice to everybody: if you have to change the high pressure pumps use ONLY Bosch replacement or genuine Jag or Land parts (which are bosch rebranded "Fomoco"). I used in the past Vemo or Metzger parts and both didn't supply enough pressure to the engine to solve the problem of low pressure...
I followed every video about the LR4 5.0 engine fuel system to figure out my case. I have the code P0627 that says: Fuel Pump "A" control circuit/open. Yesterday, the engine stopped completely while driving on road . It was cranking only so I towed it home. Today I tried again multiple times and got it to start couple times but then it stopped Any input will be greatly appreciated Thank you
Hi IDK if you still monitor this video's comments but I am somewhat new to D.I. engines while working on a 2012 Range Rover Sport Supercharged V8. Have intermittent lean bank 1 code but long term FT is a bit high. The values you mention for 3000 RPM steady in park for my scanner are reading at about 750PSI. (I do not see the fuel rail pressure sensor voltage on my scanner but I will get a new scanner if need be) At idle there is 450 psi rail pressure but if REVVING the engine to 3000 rpm +/- up and down then the fuel rail pressure peaks and declines from over 10,000kpa back down to 3000kpa (varies +/-) so the pumps make pressure, just not steady (varies about 100PSI continuously according to the sensor) or as high as you state it should be at steady 3000RPM. Still, the reading at steady state 3000 RPM is not anywhere near the 2400psi mentioned in the video, only much less. If there is no load at 3000 RPM is the rail pressure still going to be high? Another major issue with the vehicle is that at cruise at light load the RPM's oscillate by about 500 rpm constantly varying. It is not very easy to feel it but we can see the tachometer oscillating and hear the engine revving slightly and dropping. It does this steadily, not like a slipping tranny but it might be torque converter trying to lock/unlock. IDK since it happens even at 25mph where I do not think the torque converter will lock anyway. There is still pretty good power at WOT, smooth idle except for very cold starts below freezing has some stumbling and takes a 20 seconds or more to run smoothly. Gas is fresh, injector tips were cleaned, ran plenty of 44k and other cleaners through the fuel system. Recently had timing chains and supercharger snout. New EGR diaphragms, MAF sensors. There is 160K miles and wondering if you can point me in the right direction. Thanks!
1. I think the 2 hpfps share one fuel rail as it merges together on the bank 1 side. 2. Which TDC for the pump timing? Combustion stroke or intake stroke on cylinder 1? Need to remove cam position sensor or valve cover to see? 3, By removing the 2 hpfps and the non-spring guide of the pump chain, u can rotate the pump camshaft. No need to drop pan. 4. Can the hpfps fail and not generating the right PSI? Or just leak gasoline into crankcase and mixed with oil? 4.I want to know how the hpfps are electronically controlled. Sensor or solenoid?
For people saying ford engine this 5.0 from jaguar and range rover was made on the same assembly line as ford engines but it is not a ford engine this was the last agreement between ford and tata motors to produced the engine on the same assembly line before Tata motors ends its relationship with ford
What you you recommend replacing after a mis fueling incident. Diesel in petrol engine while engine was running. Nine was at half tank and dumped about 16l before releasing the error. Had the car towed however had to start it to get it in neutral to be put on and off the wrecker.
I just bought a used LR4 2016 and my dealer wants to replace the low pressure fuel pump-for 2k-They aren’t sure that is the problem-its a 0089 code. I don’t know what to do :(
Buenos días, Me llamo José Manuel Gayango y me pongo en contacto con usted por que tengo un problema con un range rover sport supercharged gasolina 5.0 y no encuentro el sensor de baja presión de combustible. Si uste me puede ayudar me manda fotos ome dice donde va ubicado.Yo no soy mecánico pero me gusta. Gracias ky un saludo.
I am rebuilding an engine for a 2010 Range Rover 5.0L supercharged and I can tell you that I will never own or work on another Range Rover ever again. For every one that wants to be a Range Rover tech I give you the best of luck, these suvs are not made to be worked on there disposable, unreliable and the engine is actually made by Ford Motor Co. I have also seen parts with BMW stamps so this isn't really a Range Rover at all.
My lr4 cranking very wel en the mornig but wen i stop the engine for 10 minutes it wont start agen enless i press 2 time the baton and wel start can somone help me with thanks
Hello sir good evening. I did rebuild a 2014 aj126 engine. Timing all are perfect. I drove the car 350 km after this car have white smoke. I m open the S. C Top cover check inside the intake valve side. I saw the oil inside the super charger and intake system. After I did to change the tappet cover and pcv adapter. Fix it back all parts and then start car no have smoke right now. But the car idle not perfect detect misfire counter on 6th cylinder every time. Showing fault code on 4th cylinder and random misfire. I'm changed all injector and spark plugs ignition coils. But the rpm not stable the car have vibration. Please help me sir.
hello nice. video i have a issue with RR 5.0 SC i have misfire on all cylinder only when the engine is warm up i dont have any vacuum leak, OS sensor is good, please help me thx
You remove the plastic guide (The stationary one, not the spring-loaded tensioning one) from against the fuel pump chain, then with a screwdriver you can move the chain away from the teeth enough to "walk" the shaft back into position, one tooth at a time.
KellY Conklin!!! I need help. Range Rover Sport Supercharger keeps popping Reduced Engine performance on the dashboard. Vehicle sometimes doesn't respond to throttle acceleration. Basically glides at 60/70mph. I hear a clanky noise in the engine. A spark plug always has oil on its tip. What do you think 🤔💭?
Have a 2013 Range Rover sport with the 5.0L engine. Engine is stalling. Changed the fuel pump in tank, both high pressure fuel pumps, & the common rail fuel pressure sensor. My data shows the “High Pressure Fuel Supply Pump Duration” increase from 0 degrees up until 60 degrees is when it will stall. Any ideas would be appreciated.
I have a 2010 hse , and my mechanic is saying the entire engine needs to come out in order to access high pressure pump , and that he doesn't have the tools so it might not be worth him ordering tools to complete this one job. Also suggested thaty camshaft that drives the hpp might be broken and if so ,scratched the internals and might've junk my motor, but I don't see how he would know that if the engine is still in place and not disassembled....any thoughts?
Go to the dealer. The initial quote will be double the local mechanics but in the end the price will be the same, you will wait half as long, no excuses, and the issues will be taken care of. Local mechanics do the money makers then give back the vehicle with issues you would have liked to resolve. Lastly you can get a nice loaner car from the dealer. I just spent $22,000.00 on my Range rover Sport at a local so-called British car specialist and got the truck back with a check engine light! Allot odf high priced stuff like parking brake actuator but nothing for the tuning of the rover. Never again. Then, they say they "got this" then the fibs about hard to get parts. All that stuff.
Hi i have 0v reading on the high pressure sensor and high pressure pumps on diagnostics say there are not operating when running, so faulty sensor? also where is the high pressure sensor?thanks
This is a great video, I'm working on a (AJ126) the 6 cylinder version of this motor. Does anyone know about the the correct aliment for the lower timing chain on this motor. If I set it up with all the markings on the chain lined with the markings on the cogs, the fuel pump cam tool will not fit. It seems like the makings on the chain are one pin out?
@@stevenherrera310 no it doesmt you can do it inside the engine bay but the lower oil pan has to come off and hpfp have to be loosened so you can turn cam easier. Crank pulled has to be pulled and the timing cover has to be pulled off and the chain guide taken out. After that you can adjust it without pulling engine.
Yes, the high pressure fuel pump cam can be adjusted without opening the engine sump. I did that just yesterday. It seemed impossible at first but I was able to go around it eventually. It's a bit technical though. I so wish i could make a video about it.
@@Phemmyson Your answer has given me a bit of relief. I just finished my rebuild on the v6 3.0l and it gave me P00C6 and P0087 codes. I might inadvertently timed the hpfp cam 180 degrees off. Now with the engine back in the bay, am in no mood to pull it off again…that would be such a pain. Could you share with me the steps you took to adjust it without taking off the oil pan?
@@Phemmyson I would also love to hear how you did this. Doesn't have to be super detailed but just an overview of how you did it and maybe some pertinent details. It would be a HUGE help!
We have one of these (2014 5.0 SC) that came in missing like crazy, timing chains making noise. We did the chains, and now it runs like crap only on cold startups, and sets misfire faults on bank 2. sometimes all cylinders on bank 2 but sometimes only three of them. Cyl 2 injector was stuck bad and got damaged when removed, and we replaced it.. this cylinder is still throwing cold start misses though. WE are wondering if the HP pump is bleeding down... They talk about bank1 bank2 fuel pumps, but it seems like the pumps aren't bank specific.. The fuel lines join together for both banks on the bank 1 valve cover.
William Wallace we resolved it. Baum tools sold us a kit with a pin for a v6 supercharged/v8 NON supercharged (or something like that? It’s been a while now) and the pin was offset just enough where it located the crank a bit off of Tdc with the cam tools in place. It was just barely off and didn’t affect performance but affected the cold start timing. Everyone MAKE SURE you are using the correct timing set! Baum told us on the phone that the timing pins were the same but my instructions on all data suggested differently. We took baums word for it and in the end had to take the engine apart again to retime it
@@beyer66 Hi, I have very similar issues. Replaced timing tensioner and now have cold misfire on bank 2, cyl2 mainly but all on bank 2. Replaced injectors but still have cold misfire and b2s1 shows rich. Get Restricted Performance message and stays in open loop. After stop start it’s smooths out. Did you retime with a new kit ?
@@lougilday1094 just make sure you have the correct timing pin (crank pin) for your engine. Baum tools insisted there was only one pin, and the one they sold is DID fit, but it didn’t locate the crank in the correct position.
I have a 2011 Range Rover SC 5.0. I have a cylinder 4 misfire. Changed the injector and misfire came back. Different cylinder. It’s changing cylinders all the time and fixes itself and drives fine sometimes. Been dealing with this for 5 months. My oil smells like fuel when I take the cap off. If I stay light on throttle I went 3 weeks without the misfire and it just came back. Heavy on throttle will trigger it. I’m thinking maybe it’s the HP fuel pump?? I don’t hear any timing chain noise and have 102,000 miles. Last owner changed the fuel pump itself around 40k miles.
Rover engines suck. K got a 2013 sport that won't start after replacing injectors and spark plugs. Have a pressure reading of up around 3900psi. My guess is pressure sensor. How do I check the fuel pump though? Since it's so hard to even reach them
Stupid Ford engineers! Who in a right state of mind would design a cam that can be installed wrong way even with a factory tool??? On any Japanese cars you can't install anything wrong, even without tools. I understand they want to sell you a tool, but at least design the engine so when using the tool you can't install the cam wrong way!
![Megan Thee Stallion - Neva Play (feat. RM) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/TpYTyAaTRts/mqdefault.jpg)
This instructor is extremely good
Great video. When he says only photo in the world on the low fuel pressure sensor, that is the understatement of a lifetime. Spent 6 hours to confirm I had the correct answer before taking apart the engine bay. Thank you for all the great information.
Can confirm. After pursuing everywhere ELSE the low fuel pressure sensor said it WAS, I followed the fuel lines from the tank to the side of the transmission and there it was, behind the heat shield.
How did you take that sensor out ?
You’ll need two pair of locking pliers for the sensor. After disconnecting the battery and removing the heat shield on the passenger side, disconnect the sensor and install the new one.
@@SIFmbtech2012 I have code P0627 which says about low pressure fuel pump circuit open. The car starts for 5 seconds then stops . I changed the in tank pump two years ago. Would that be anything other than this low pressure sensor ?!
@@alisuta2001just like the instructor says in the video. I’d start with the cheaper part like the sensor before moving on to the more expense repairs. I’m an amateur mechanic so I’m just saying where I’d start. I don’t know if it’ll solve your issue.
I give a true advice to everybody: if you have to change the high pressure pumps use ONLY Bosch replacement or genuine Jag or Land parts (which are bosch rebranded "Fomoco"). I used in the past Vemo or Metzger parts and both didn't supply enough pressure to the engine to solve the problem of low pressure...
The next class I plan to attend.
Thank you very much for your videos. Good job. Have a blessed and safe week.
Thanx for information sir I'm waiting for next video
THANK YOU SO MUCH THIS VIDEO IS VERY HELPFUL
Cảm ơn bạn chia sẻ kiến thức bổ ích ,chúc bạn nhiều sức khoẻ trong cuộc sống
Very informative video also sounds like a diagnostic nightmare
Amazing! Thank you for posting.
I followed every video about the LR4 5.0 engine fuel system to figure out my case.
I have the code P0627 that says: Fuel Pump "A" control circuit/open.
Yesterday, the engine stopped completely while driving on road . It was cranking only so I towed it home. Today I tried again multiple times and got it to start couple times but then it stopped
Any input will be greatly appreciated
Thank you
Appreciate..thank you
Great explanations.. thank u
Hi IDK if you still monitor this video's comments but I am somewhat new to D.I. engines while working on a 2012 Range Rover Sport Supercharged V8. Have intermittent lean bank 1 code but long term FT is a bit high. The values you mention for 3000 RPM steady in park for my scanner are reading at about 750PSI. (I do not see the fuel rail pressure sensor voltage on my scanner but I will get a new scanner if need be) At idle there is 450 psi rail pressure but if REVVING the engine to 3000 rpm +/- up and down then the fuel rail pressure peaks and declines from over 10,000kpa back down to 3000kpa (varies +/-) so the pumps make pressure, just not steady (varies about 100PSI continuously according to the sensor) or as high as you state it should be at steady 3000RPM. Still, the reading at steady state 3000 RPM is not anywhere near the 2400psi mentioned in the video, only much less. If there is no load at 3000 RPM is the rail pressure still going to be high? Another major issue with the vehicle is that at cruise at light load the RPM's oscillate by about 500 rpm constantly varying. It is not very easy to feel it but we can see the tachometer oscillating and hear the engine revving slightly and dropping. It does this steadily, not like a slipping tranny but it might be torque converter trying to lock/unlock. IDK since it happens even at 25mph where I do not think the torque converter will lock anyway. There is still pretty good power at WOT, smooth idle except for very cold starts below freezing has some stumbling and takes a 20 seconds or more to run smoothly. Gas is fresh, injector tips were cleaned, ran plenty of 44k and other cleaners through the fuel system. Recently had timing chains and supercharger snout. New EGR diaphragms, MAF sensors. There is 160K miles and wondering if you can point me in the right direction. Thanks!
1. I think the 2 hpfps share one fuel rail as it merges together on the bank 1 side.
2. Which TDC for the pump timing? Combustion stroke or intake stroke on cylinder 1? Need to remove cam position sensor or valve cover to see?
3, By removing the 2 hpfps and the non-spring guide of the pump chain, u can rotate the pump camshaft. No need to drop pan.
4. Can the hpfps fail and not generating the right PSI? Or just leak gasoline into crankcase and mixed with oil?
4.I want to know how the hpfps are electronically controlled. Sensor or solenoid?
Gold video.
For people saying ford engine this 5.0 from jaguar and range rover was made on the same assembly line as ford engines but it is not a ford engine this was the last agreement between ford and tata motors to produced the engine on the same assembly line before Tata motors ends its relationship with ford
Thank you so much for this
This video is Amazing!
What you you recommend replacing after a mis fueling incident. Diesel in petrol engine while engine was running. Nine was at half tank and dumped about 16l before releasing the error. Had the car towed however had to start it to get it in neutral to be put on and off the wrecker.
26:54 doesnt make sense. hes says "fomoco should be legible on top" but given the picture its upside down.
The picture hes showing of at that time is of one that is off he.
I have a 2016 HSE ranger rover, engine coolant water pressure, is it ok while running 26psi, look forward to your answer
I just bought a used LR4 2016 and my dealer wants to replace the low pressure fuel pump-for 2k-They aren’t sure that is the problem-its a 0089 code. I don’t know what to do :(
part is like 150 dollars, i would replace the one on the fuel rail first. (most common one).
What does it mean if the fuel rail sensor is less than 1 volt? Is it the sensor or punp I'm getting a p0087 code and multiple misfires
Does anyone know where to find the very next video? I need the video explaining how to adjust the timing.
Buenos días, Me llamo José Manuel Gayango y me pongo en contacto con usted por que tengo un problema con un range rover sport supercharged gasolina 5.0 y no encuentro el sensor de baja presión de combustible. Si uste me puede ayudar me manda fotos ome dice donde va ubicado.Yo no soy mecánico pero me gusta. Gracias ky un saludo.
I am rebuilding an engine for a 2010 Range Rover 5.0L supercharged and I can tell you that I will never own or work on another Range Rover ever again. For every one that wants to be a Range Rover tech I give you the best of luck, these suvs are not made to be worked on there disposable, unreliable and the engine is actually made by Ford Motor Co. I have also seen parts with BMW stamps so this isn't really a Range Rover at all.
yup pile of junk...
Planned obsolescence
Never give up
My lr4 cranking very wel en the mornig but wen i stop the engine for 10 minutes it wont start agen enless i press 2 time the baton and wel start can somone help me with thanks
Hello sir good evening.
I did rebuild a 2014 aj126 engine. Timing all are perfect. I drove the car 350 km after this car have white smoke. I m open the S. C Top cover check inside the intake valve side. I saw the oil inside the super charger and intake system. After I did to change the tappet cover and pcv adapter. Fix it back all parts and then start car no have smoke right now. But the car idle not perfect detect misfire counter on 6th cylinder every time. Showing fault code on 4th cylinder and random misfire. I'm changed all injector and spark plugs ignition coils. But the rpm not stable the car have vibration. Please help me sir.
hello nice. video
i have a issue with RR 5.0 SC
i have misfire on all cylinder only when the engine is warm up
i dont have any vacuum leak, OS sensor is good,
please help me
thx
It ends right at the best part - how do you adjust the pump timing with the timing cover on?
You remove the plastic guide (The stationary one, not the spring-loaded tensioning one) from against the fuel pump chain, then with a screwdriver you can move the chain away from the teeth enough to "walk" the shaft back into position, one tooth at a time.
KellY Conklin!!! I need help. Range Rover Sport Supercharger keeps popping Reduced Engine performance on the dashboard. Vehicle sometimes doesn't respond to throttle acceleration. Basically glides at 60/70mph. I hear a clanky noise in the engine. A spark plug always has oil on its tip. What do you think 🤔💭?
great
Very informative, thoughts on a 5.0 cranking but not starting?
do you have spark, fuel? what codes are showing when you scan? Has the timing chains been done?
Have a 2013 Range Rover sport with the 5.0L engine. Engine is stalling. Changed the fuel pump in tank, both high pressure fuel pumps, & the common rail fuel pressure sensor. My data shows the “High Pressure Fuel Supply Pump Duration” increase from 0 degrees up until 60 degrees is when it will stall. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Did you ever figure this out?
I have a 2010 hse , and my mechanic is saying the entire engine needs to come out in order to access high pressure pump , and that he doesn't have the tools so it might not be worth him ordering tools to complete this one job. Also suggested thaty camshaft that drives the hpp might
be broken and if so ,scratched the internals and might've junk my motor, but I don't see how he would know that if the engine is still in place and not disassembled....any thoughts?
Go to the dealer. The initial quote will be double the local mechanics but in the end the price will be the same, you will wait half as long, no excuses, and the issues will be taken care of. Local mechanics do the money makers then give back the vehicle with issues you would have liked to resolve. Lastly you can get a nice loaner car from the dealer. I just spent $22,000.00 on my Range rover Sport at a local so-called British car specialist and got the truck back with a check engine light! Allot odf high priced stuff like parking brake actuator but nothing for the tuning of the rover. Never again. Then, they say they "got this" then the fibs about hard to get parts. All that stuff.
Hi i have 0v reading on the high pressure sensor and high pressure pumps on diagnostics say there are not operating when running, so faulty sensor? also where is the high pressure sensor?thanks
This is a great video, I'm working on a (AJ126) the 6 cylinder version of this motor. Does anyone know about the the correct aliment for the lower timing chain on this motor. If I set it up with all the markings on the chain lined with the markings on the cogs, the fuel pump cam tool will not fit. It seems like the makings on the chain are one pin out?
Yoo... V6 and V8 has a different timing tool for that
Question. If the Fuel pump cam gear is out 180° can it be adjusted without removing the oil pan?
no! engine has to be pulled out and timed cam correctly, fault code willl never go away and will have hard starts.
@@stevenherrera310 no it doesmt you can do it inside the engine bay but the lower oil pan has to come off and hpfp have to be loosened so you can turn cam easier. Crank pulled has to be pulled and the timing cover has to be pulled off and the chain guide taken out. After that you can adjust it without pulling engine.
Yes, the high pressure fuel pump cam can be adjusted without opening the engine sump. I did that just yesterday. It seemed impossible at first but I was able to go around it eventually. It's a bit technical though. I so wish i could make a video about it.
@@Phemmyson Your answer has given me a bit of relief. I just finished my rebuild on the v6 3.0l and it gave me P00C6 and P0087 codes. I might inadvertently timed the hpfp cam 180 degrees off. Now with the engine back in the bay, am in no mood to pull it off again…that would be such a pain. Could you share with me the steps you took to adjust it without taking off the oil pan?
@@Phemmyson I would also love to hear how you did this. Doesn't have to be super detailed but just an overview of how you did it and maybe some pertinent details. It would be a HUGE help!
Where’s the fuel pressure regulator on a 2010 RRover HSE non supercharged
I have a P0089 code (Fuel Pressure Regulator Performance) on a 2016 Range Rover (L405) Autobiography LWB. What's the fix?
Did you ever figure out this issue? Have the same problem on my 2014 L494
We have one of these (2014 5.0 SC) that came in missing like crazy, timing chains making noise. We did the chains, and now it runs like crap only on cold startups, and sets misfire faults on bank 2. sometimes all cylinders on bank 2 but sometimes only three of them. Cyl 2 injector was stuck bad and got damaged when removed, and we replaced it.. this cylinder is still throwing cold start misses though. WE are wondering if the HP pump is bleeding down... They talk about bank1 bank2 fuel pumps, but it seems like the pumps aren't bank specific.. The fuel lines join together for both banks on the bank 1 valve cover.
Did you resolve your issue? It sounds like multiple injectors were stuck open.
William Wallace we resolved it. Baum tools sold us a kit with a pin for a v6 supercharged/v8 NON supercharged (or something like that? It’s been a while now) and the pin was offset just enough where it located the crank a bit off of Tdc with the cam tools in place. It was just barely off and didn’t affect performance but affected the cold start timing. Everyone MAKE SURE you are using the correct timing set! Baum told us on the phone that the timing pins were the same but my instructions on all data suggested differently. We took baums word for it and in the end had to take the engine apart again to retime it
@@beyer66 Hi, I have very similar issues. Replaced timing tensioner and now have cold misfire on bank 2, cyl2 mainly but all on bank 2. Replaced injectors but still have cold misfire and b2s1 shows rich. Get Restricted Performance message and stays in open loop. After stop start it’s smooths out.
Did you retime with a new kit ?
@@lougilday1094 just make sure you have the correct timing pin (crank pin) for your engine. Baum tools insisted there was only one pin, and the one they sold is DID fit, but it didn’t locate the crank in the correct position.
I changed my fuel pump twice already and I changed the fuel pressure sensor b and my car still dies ? Any suggestions🥺
The timing is off and that causes too much fuel pressure
I have a 2011 Range Rover SC 5.0. I have a cylinder 4 misfire. Changed the injector and misfire came back. Different cylinder. It’s changing cylinders all the time and fixes itself and drives fine sometimes. Been dealing with this for 5 months. My oil smells like fuel when I take the cap off. If I stay light on throttle I went 3 weeks without the misfire and it just came back. Heavy on throttle will trigger it. I’m thinking maybe it’s the HP fuel pump?? I don’t hear any timing chain noise and have 102,000 miles. Last owner changed the fuel pump itself around 40k miles.
Michael Smith did you figure it out?
I HAVE A PROBLEM AS YOU DESCRIPTION, AND I ALSO FIND A PERFECT CORRECTION SOLUTION. HOW CAN YOU HELP. SINCERELY THANK YOU
very impressive video. Do you respond to emails?
Rover engines suck. K got a 2013 sport that won't start after replacing injectors and spark plugs. Have a pressure reading of up around 3900psi. My guess is pressure sensor.
How do I check the fuel pump though? Since it's so hard to even reach them
What about the fuel Regulator system
It doesn't have a mechanical fuel pump regulator. It uses the Fuel pump control module to regulate the fuel pressure.
En castellano?
talk in french please
Stupid Ford engineers! Who in a right state of mind would design a cam that can be installed wrong way even with a factory tool??? On any Japanese cars you can't install anything wrong, even without tools. I understand they want to sell you a tool, but at least design the engine so when using the tool you can't install the cam wrong way!