Step by Step How to Connect up a 10 Way Wylex Dual RCD Consumer Unit (Fuse Box) By Luke Wichard
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- Опубликовано: 31 май 2024
- Step by step tutorial on how to connect up a U.K. consumer unit (fuse board or fuse box) by RUclips star Electrician Luke Wichard from My Trusted Electrician for the learners at Tresham College
Tresham College welcomes My Trusted Electrician Luke Wichard. Luke puts on a masterclass on how to connect up a 10 way dual RCD metal consumers unit. Luke shows our learners how to connect the neutrals, cpc's (earths) and line (live) conductors in a consumers unit and lay the out neatly. Once all connections are installed Luke uses his torque screwdriver to confirm tightness according to manufactures instructions.
== 🕐 Time Stamps - Cut to the action 🕕 ==
00:00 - How to connect a consumer unit
00:13 - Introduction to the layout of the cables within a consumer unit (fuse box)
01:23 - MCB layout to allow for future expansion of the wiring system
03:00 - Reasons NOT to use consumer unit blanks
05:00 - Filling the holes in the back of a consumer unit and intumescent pads
05:57 - Removing the din rail from the consumer unit
06:23 - Dressing the twin and earth (twin and cpc) cables
12:36 - Dressing and connecting the neutral conductors
25:25 - Dressing and connecting the cpc (earth) conductors
43:00 - Torque screwdrivers
46:00 - Dressing and connecting the line (live) conductors
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== 🕐 Time Stamps - Cut to the action 🕕 ==
00:13 - Introduction to the layout of the cables within a consumer unit (fuse box)
01:23 - MCB layout to allow for future expansion of the wiring system
03:00 - Reasons NOT to use consumer unit blanks
05:00 - Filling the holes in the back of a consumer unit and intumescent pads
05:57 - Removing the din rail from the consumer unit
06:23 - Dressing the twin and earth (twin and cpc) cables
12:36 - Dressing and connecting the neutral conductors
25:25 - Dressing and connecting the cpc (earth) conductors
43:00 - Torque screwdrivers
46:00 - Dressing and connecting the line (live) conductors
As an engineer myself (not electrical) do you know how refreshing it is to hear another engineer saying it makes it easier for the next guy....well done.
I was really nervous chatting to the learners but as soon as I had that consumer unit infront of me I don't think I could have felt more comfortable if I had had slippers on 😅
Thanks for giving me the opportunity to pass on a little knowledge.
Everyone inc the learners were really kind!
Thanks
Luke
You were amazing Luke and all the learners loved it.... we are all looking forward to your next visit thanks again Gaz
Your method is top notch mate 👍🏻
They sell CATII slippers? 😜
Can't believe how cool you were knowing that their will be people ready to pull your work apart because they have no life......well done and enjoyed watching the vid
Quality video mate, a nice neat board and some decent tips there! Also what are those CK cutters you’re using? Think I’ll need to get myself a set of them, you can’t beat getting new tools! Nice one for taking and interest into the kids coming into the industry and passing on your knowledge mate 👌🏻
this video has definitely got a hit from me! really clear instruction
I'm in the middle of a self build, I can't tell you just how grateful I am for your videos, I have done my own wiring for years now but to understand all the new legislation and feel confident to continue my self install and know it will pass testing is just great. Many thanks
Not enough words Gaz, not enough words. Thank you both.
Absolutely fantastic! Looks amazing congratulations. I remember my first consumer unit install! And that was in the 15th regs aha
Thanks for this great video guys, I was wondering how to wire my MK CU neatly and you showed me the way. Its a 21 way and its full, so will take my time and do a job I can be proud of (and my Sparkie cousin will be confident when signing off the job as I'm under his guidance).
GLAD YOU MENTIONED DOUBLE POLE
THE FIRST HOUSE WE MOVED IN TO HAD D/P FUSING FOR EVERY CIRCUIT IN THE HOUSE
Brilliantly done . I always use bootlace ferrules it makes the wiring look more neat it only takes a few seconds to crimp on a ferrule.
Great video as always. Would love to see a video where someone as good as Luke is replacing an old consumer unit and getting the neatest possible outcome. I would love to have all that slack to play with...
We all want extra slack 👍
Watched this 3 times! ❤
Fantastic, work here - beautifully neat!
What a neat job. I will have to try harder to copy you. We become complacent.
Thanks again for the video. Luke's work ethic is to be admired. Regarding the "last 50 years, repair in 30 seconds", I once was told that "Quality is doing the right thing when no one is looking".....a good lesson for your learners Gaz
Thanks for the great comment Gaz 👍
If you treat every electrical job you work on as a job you are doing for you granny, you will never go wrong.....
If only all consumer unit changes were that easy 😀 Top job Luke, good to see you sowing into the next generation, some of those tips and tricks you shared with them will stay with them for a lifetime.
Thanks for the positive comment and watching Gaz 👍
Brilliant video, good quality content. Top job!
Thanks for that 👍👍👍
Great work with this video. I've learnt a lot from this channel! Great advise etc. I'm actually doing my own wiring. I need you guys to furnish me with a certificate. Lol. Thanks again.
Loved the vid
....watched from start to finish and I'm a sparky....Just interesting seeing someone else's work........well done Luke and GSH
Same here :-) lol we're just sadists.
Another great lesson ❤️🙏
I always start with the highest rating MCB nearest the Main Switch or RCD, the bus bar resistance is less at the higher rated MCB than the Lower MCB. This avoids unnecessary overloads on the busbar. Thats how I was taught many moons ago in college. Makes sense, as well as any additions later on. Great video.
In reality it really doesn’t matter it’s just something everyone does on consumer units. No one ever worries about 3 phase boards.
3 phase boards are a different matter all together. They need load balancing on each phase. As well as bus bar loads to each phase being placed nearest the main switch. In 3 phase supplies, they are usually used in commercial/industrial environments and probably using heavier loads such as motors, heaters etc, I have seen totally inbalanced loads in factories that where in contravention of BS7671 so you are right, most people don't care.. Lol I like to think I do care 😉
Comment wasn’t about load balancing but about were loads are placed on the bus bar subject to distance from the main switch.
In relation to the question of mounting it on wood. CEF sell fire retardant wooden backing boards of various sizes for consumer units and fire retardant mounting posts both made by Wooton. You still need to fill holes etc.
Very clean wiring!
For me in Aust, my teachers always hammered into my head, Earth stakes first, then Earth's, then Neutral's, then Active's then the Mains Supply.
Some people may say its the wrong way but when you work on some places that have tradies with generators or even the weather and worse is the steel frame house its so surprising how much of a shock you get from a dead wires not Earthed first.
I do agree with putting the CB's from large to small and if you got any spare space then put them in the middle but some Auth say NO to gaps.
I also think this is great to watch and most in the is standard in many Countries, States and other.
I use a Wera torque driver, it's spot on. Looks a bit weird but works great.
Brilliant - - why the did I ever enrol with Access Training - really, good clear video by GSH. The videos are clear and have given me a much better understanding. Currently taking a career change to become an electrician and sitting my 18th Edition / Inspecton and Testing exams soon. Cheers
Foolanders74 thanks for the positive comment. Gaz 👍
I did a course with access Training this year too. They're terrible 😂
Thanks BUT couldn’t find the 91 Thumbs down comments compared to the other 1000’s of Thumbs Up’s.
WELL DONE LEARNING SO MUCH
Great video. Many thanks
I checked out Wera and Draper Expert, Draper Expert felt better for me.
This was a fantastic job, what made it even more interesting was the conversation regarding the job and technique. Thankyou for putting this online
Great video, really easy to follow
Nice video, shows why people spend a fortune making sure you lot are paid well for the work you undertake and knowledge you need. I always thought electrical cables had the earths already sleeved, never realised you sleeved them yourselves
Great video
Reusable cable ties with section to write on or put a label on seems like it might make the process of populating a distribution board much easier.
57:25 Mmmm sounds like chips in the frying pan
This was so therapeutic to watch
Neatest boards in the west. :) Always a pleasure to watch the wizard at work. Interesting that you double up conductors even when multiple conductors to be terminated as there is not always the space in which to do so. Many thanks. :)
I keep a pot of super glue in tool bag.Always super glue grommet strip in.Great looking board.👍
hi. Thanks for the tip and watching Gaz
Same here but use 2.5 sheath
A tip, when markig - use 2 different color markers, then only 5 dots - will result in binary code (lets say red for 1 and black for zero) for up to 32 different labels.
Excellent tanx for the upload👍👍👍
Your welcome thanks for watching 👍
Awesome video thankyou
It would be good to see different electricians do the same task so you could do a compare and contrast at the end.
Great point 👍
People forget that you spend all this time routing the cables making it look good when installing the new consumer unit & then when it comes to testing it you disconnect them lol.
Great video
100% true
I always test before changing the board , Then there are no surprises when you energise the installation. I install the tails first as I find doing it that way is easier.
49:04 I'm still here and loving it!
Wow that’s Ironman viewing time 😁👍. Thanks Gaz
Well done Lad 👍
👍🏻
I wish my electrician would have left a few blanks in my garage, I told him when installing it I may want to install a big air compressor or welder and that day has come and I've now found out hes just wired in the standard 13amp plug circuit and a circuit for the lights and the consumer box has no space for another switch so now I'm probably gonna have to get it redone.. great
Thats how they make their money isn't it... Return visits?
@@justintemp Yeah I guess, I’ve had it redone now and left in 3 blanks if I need anything in the future.
@@bendude6748 i totally emphasise as it happened to me on my garage refit. Had swa under patio slab so asked for it to be in own consumer unit with extra for future expansion and extra sockets eg outside lighting etc.
He only put in 3?!!!
Power, light, spare
Did you have to pay for a new larger board? It's annoying as the unit i got was new.
@@justintemp Yeah had to pay to get a new board fitted, can’t remember what it cost me now but I think it was reasonable. Just a bit annoying that it wasn’t set up how I wanted it the first time around.
@@bendude6748 yeah you pay a lot first time, not to have to do it again.
I asked another electrician and he said he would fit 3 extra ones with a bigger board. He said nobody does 3 nowadays due to number of things people have.... So i can't even sell the old unit online!
Someone needs to design a tool that cuts, bends and crimps the wire together all in one. Saves a lot of swapping over
Knipex13 86 200 👍🏼
Fantastic👍
Glad it helped 😁
Excellent video
Amazing electrician job wow -geng-
Another brilliant video Gaz do u have one showing incoming power being connected to main breaker and 2 other breakers
A bit of advice try to put labels on the cables so that other electricians find it easy to fault find and carrying out testing.
ruclips.net/video/1qerkAYMRtQ/видео.html
This is what it looked like after the installation video 👆🏻. Thanks Gaz 👍
Nice and professional job now
Awesome
Started my collage course last week and i think i will be able to do wire one of the consumer units now but i need to wait until the end of the year and hopefully pass all my tests
Thanks for watching and good luck on your course. Gaz👍
Ok babh
how you been getting on?
Wrap a piece of white electrical tape around each of your incoming circuits to label them.
A lot of guys don't realise how much easier it is to work on a board that was fitted off neatly like that when it comes to modifications in the future. One of the worst sins my apprentices make is trying to hide a meter of tail from each circuit in a board like that.
When you straighten the conductors I use the ring on my little switchboard spanner, you do it too much with your screwdrivers you will cut the insulation off them :)
Hi thanks for taking the time to comment Gaz
Even though I've just finished college, I still learnt something new watching this. What's the name of the torque screwdriver? I'm definitely adding that to my kit.
Hi we use Wiha torque screwdrivers 🦾
Good information
I like the foreign wiring code colors, while here in the US we have BORING colors! And the copper wire for wall sockets in the US are less flexible.
Quality video
Thanks 🙌
It's been years since I've done electrics. Can you have two radials and put it into one circuit breaker as mentioned in the video? Thanks.
When I'm working with small panel cables with multi cores 0.75mm blew I use the ck cable strippers
MCB 1 the ring at 48 mins . If putting them in side by side i like to make sure the folded copper is also aligned the same way for both so your not clamping one double thickness and the other single thickness. Give them a little tug too . Quite often one will just pop out.
Great tip 👍🏻
Most manufacturers advise that you try and avoid having all heavily loaded circuits adjacent to each other. Suppose it to try and avoid overheating of the mcbs if the circuits become fully loaded
Hi . For us newbys,, brief exsplanation of “radial “ circuit .. and ring main and there differences . Thanks 👏✌️
Hi. A radial leaves the consumers unit and stops at the final point on circuit and ring final circuit leaves the consumers unit goes to every point in circuits and returns to the same to in the consumers unit. Thanks for commenting and watching Gaz 👍.
Would putting the two radials into one make it look like a ring circuit.
the loop in/out system for lighting circuits is ok for a simple installation with ceiling roses and lampholders however i prefer the old spider system for lighting circuits where a central box has each light and each switch wired to it. this is easier for fault finding and easier for connection of display type light fittings
That's what Elcb's were all be it 500ma..
mostly fitted on TT systems.
Do rear entry holes need filling with firerestant sealant or can they be left. like top and sides need ip4x and ip2x
Hi There
I think I’ve just asked this question after watching another of your tutorials, but thought I’d ask now in case o hadn’t previously.
Would you are able to do a video showing how to connect an EMPORIA ENERGY Gen 2 Emporia Vue Smart Home Energy Monitor to a UK Consumer unit ?
Regards
Paul
Hi guys enjoyed the video very interesting keep them coming can you tell me the size of the breaker you put the two radials in and is that a loud to be done.cheers
If that's a question you have to ask, it's not a job you should be considering doing!
Parabéns a todos adorei sistema de aterramento os fios nu todos ecamapdos um quadro bem montado, aqui no Brazil trabalhamos desse jeito o mesmo sistema mas aqui nós temo um rolo de 100 metros de fio para terra já encapados aliás todos fios aqui no Brazil são diferentes o DR ou IDR são obrigatório em todas as instalações para fuga de corrente evitar choques eletrico proteção para pessoas e patrimônio ..
Great video as always, I'm gonna fix Wylex boards all the time now, then sit back & wait for my applause 😂😂
Great comment 😁
can you do one were you fit a 3 phase board
I just watched this and I’m not an electrician. Nice video.
Quality sparkie
Hi, How would you go about labelling up sockets that are in a commercial property. I have noticed are sparks never put any labels on any sockets which makes fault finding hard for whoever would have to find a fault. I’m pretty sure it’s something like DB1 (DB board number) then 1 (breaker number) and then L1, 2, or 3 (phase number) for an end result of DB1/1-L1 which would give the information of Board Number 1, Breaker 1, Phase 1. Is this correct? We do have multiple boards, some 3 phase, and some single phase.
Great video. What snips is he using 13.53
amazing how different it is in the U.S.A.
I bought a Prem shield board and its has one RCD with live on the left terminal and the other RCD the live wire goes to the right terminal . Is this ever right? Can the polarity be either way . The RCDs are not marked.The board is a split load with 10mcbs.
Hi... I change my Consumer last week and i was sparky way back 2006-2012. The Only thing I Dont like when you buy the New Board Its always from right to left the configurations of the Main MCB. (I dont know if they do this intensionally) so I change my configurations from Left to right MAINS from left then followed by RCD. (MK 15 way Split w/2 RCD). Its much Better layout as you normally read from left to right. We don't read from Right to left like other countries. And I put 100A mains isolator. Much easier to isolate if you want to add circuit on your Consumer Unit.
As an electrician of 50 years,the only time you need a neutral at the switch is when you are supplying an outside light where you want to put a double pole switch in as to disconnect both the line and neutral otherwise in my training it was always frowned upon because its good electrical practice to minimise the number of connections on any circuit you are just adding connections and having a permanent live at a ceiling rose is more advantageous when you need a permanent live to pick up were if its only at your switches its much harder,so new ideas are not always the best so I'm totally opposed to neutrals and line cables looping between switches
At 50.30 he says in essex tongue. 'iwonder how much trolling there will be on this'
But the subtitles read, ' one of us will be trolling on this'.
🤦🏻♂️👍🏻
Great Video! Is there going to be a second part showing the connection of the meter tails? (Often the most difficult and fiddly part). Would be nice to see how he routes them in around those Neutrals and any tips he has??
Once again, great video!
Hi. I will follow up the video with the fitted tails, stickers etc 👍
great video for newbie sparks
Do you not need romex connectors, i noticed at the beginning the wires just keep sliding around
What size tails did you use, as you didn't mention it. 😊 Me thinks, 16mm. Or is that depending on the size of the main linked switch
Great video have fitted 100s of boards but its always nice to peek over someone shoulder as it makes you feel better about how you do it. one question I have is regards to rear entry and keeping the fire integrity of the board.. I've done a few times this way, but it feel like it goes against the grain. very honest question and in no way reflex's the workmanship of the bloke in the video
Trying to understand European house wiring. So your incoming power from the utility (hydro company) consists of 3 wires? A brown (live) a blue (neutral) and ground, is that correct? So from the live (brown) conductor to neutral or ground there’s a difference of potential of 240v?
So is wiring a light switch to a light or wiring a receptacle the same as in North America?
How do you wire a 3 way switch? (Assuming power is going to switch first)??
You use the cutters back to front when stripping insulation, the "flat" side if cutters should be towards end of cable this stops the cutters trying to compress the insulation. think of an extruding machine.
Bollocks
If your main switch is on the righthand side of the consumer unit then your connections on your neutral and earth bars should be connected from right to left which on the earth bar you have not done
Great vid ,well done Like, Am I missing something but where does the N from the Main Switch connect to the N bar, and the N from each RCD bank connect to that N?, Sorry Gary if its a "Bone" question.
Thanks for sharing sure as always its helped many.
The RCCB’s have a number of circuits on each of them and remember an RCD will detect an out of balance (earth leakage current from L and N) in the line and neutral. Google how to RCD work 🦾. Sorry for the messy short answer it’s a mad house this end.
I have the same question and i don't get the answer. Clearly the main switch must have connected to it 2 neutrals and 2 lines
I'm looking forward to seeing how he's going to get those meter tails in with a 90 degree bend. Personally i don't like to put too much stress on the main tails.
Hi. Your 100% correct the board is for demonstration and my technician placed it to close to the supply board. I will do another video about the boards features but I was holding off until the SPD arrives. Thanks for commenting and watching GSH Electrical.
Hello guy great job. A quetion for you, as we know most grounding system in UK is TNC-C-S and you do not use rod inside the consumer unit ,there is rods only along the power grid in the street,but just in case the neutral is lost or broken, does not it may offer a risk for the people inside home?
Hi thanks for the comment... currently a high number of installations are TN-C-S and the only earthing of the neutral is by the supply authorities with the supply cable. All the best and thanks again for watching GSH Electrical 👍
GSH Electrical Going to be Interesting with electric vehicle charging points will need Elcb s
@@michaeljohnson1006 Elbs? What is this?
Hi guys. Great video. I’ve been told I need an isolation switch in order to have a home car charger box fitted. I’ve got this exact fuse box but can’t seem to find the isolation switch, any help or advice as to where it could be would be very much appreciated. Thanks in advance.
If you need a remote isolation switch fitting contact your energy supplier. All the best Gaz
@@GSHElectrical great. Thanks.
Wylex CU improvements required:
They should put the earth bar in the middle.
The din rail shouldn’t be rigid. You should be able to remove the guts by loosening the din rail with the two screws at each side, rather than disconnecting and removing all the protective devices.
Provide a decent rear grommet
hi with regard to the mounting of high integrity units, wylex do supply a rear mounting plate that allows rear cable entry for surface cables however i am not sure about mounting a high integrity board on a wooden surface. is this allowable? could you please clarify are you saying that the rear entry space should be filled with a fire retardent substance
Hi. The consumer unit is a training rig hence it’s attached to a wood board and not to a non combustible surface. The access points in the back are large and if this was on-site I recommend filling it with a non-combustible material (compound). Thanks for commenting and watching 👍
on these boards, do they come with the breakers preinstalled, or do you have to add them during the install?
Hi. Either... if want them fully loaded they can offer a standard layout or you can request the breakers you want. Thanks as always Gaz
This guys first time or something ?
Hi what’s the cutter called and where can I get it from
Have you Guy's not got one of those special electrician inductive tail clamp kettle's yet lol
What model is that isolator switch?
What's the name of the cable or you called i hope you answer me and thanks for your great work
Hi. On site they call the cable PVC twin and earth at college we call it PVC twin and cpc. Thanks for commenting and watching GSH Electrical 👍
Thanks for you and keep on.