#30 - Keithley 614 electrometer repair and calibration
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- Опубликовано: 18 окт 2024
- Vintage Keithley 614 electrometer was picked up on eBay as non-working. The unit was repaired and adjusted. The old-fashioned 2-lug triaxial connector on the front panel was replaced with a 3-lug one. The process was explained in some detail.
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This is a great video.
I just noticed someone over on the EEV Blog Forum is looking for someone familiar with this unit.
I suggested your video. Keep them coming!
Small tip regarding shielding:
You probably made a much bigger difference by using black heatshrink than you would by touching the teflon with greasy fingers.
The black pigment in the heatshrink is carbon-based and is therefore slightly conductive. Not enough to cause any problems in almost any situation except something extreme like an electrometer.
Use white, or better, clear heatshrink next time, they have a much higher dielectric strength and lower conductivity.
Thanks. I appreciate your comment.
These type of videos are the best, lets do more troubleshooting and repair.
Thank You so much.
I have one 614 as well. I got a Pomona 4725 2-lug triax to alligator cable for it and it worked well. BTW, due to the extreme high input impedance, typical heat shrink is probably not ideal, especially if the environment humidity is high. Great video!
+Kerry Wong
What kind of heat shrink would you propose? Do you think Keithley used some special kind?
Thanks for watching and for your opinion.
+FeedbackLoop
Typically, the heat shrink material for these kind of extremely high input impedance probes is PTFE.
Nice job on restoring good ol Keithley!
Thank you for posting these videos, learning so much about repair and troubleshooting.... Excellent way to get cheap test gear!
Nice job. I have been bitten by those silly old gang switches before. Can't complain too much, though. I got a $100 off a Keithley bench meter because it did not work right in current mode. I took it apart and found it was the front/rear input switch. A little contact cleaner and she was as good as new!
Nice work on the front input.
From all the repair videos on youtube, yours are the best ones. I am happy to have been able to find your channel. Continue the great work. If you happen to be on patreon, I would be happy to provide.
Thank you. I have not explored the Patreon option yet. As I understand, I will have to register a company and turn this channel into a business, but I am not sure. Perhaps, one day I will figure out the details, if this channel gets very popular.
I am sure it will. Looking forward for your next videos. In the meantime, I listen to each one of your old videos. As you see, I am at two years old videos now. As for patreon, Mr. Carlson's Labs get $4000 a month with 80K subscrivers! Even if you make only $200 with 3K subscribers, I think it would be a good thing to look at it further.
Very good. Those style switches seem to be a common source of problems with this brand and era. I watched another video earlier (EEVBlog) and they found the same symptoms and cause.
Love your work man.
Hi, do you have a photo/video/image of the detailed “zero check” loop? My copper piece broken. Do you know where can I buy the copper( gold plated?) replacement piece?
I enjoyed your video. I have one that trying to troubleshoot. All positive voltages are ok. Negative voltage on 2V and 20V range are out of spec. Have you experienced this? Thanks.
Great video.
THanks for shareing
Very nice job! :D
Very good video.
hello...can you please tell me how to use keithley 617 electrometer..i want to measure current by keeping voltage fixed.
Learned from you . thanks
Hi I was wondering if I can measure Ac miliamps with this meter? thanks
no, DC only
Just found you...great vid !
Cyclon batteries are still made!
It is sad when the button gets depressed.
Кифлии!!