How to Use Fill-in Flash for Wildlife Photography
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- Опубликовано: 7 авг 2024
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Using Fill-in Flash for Wildlife Photography - how to use it in the Field. Fill-flash is a great technique for wildlife photography - if you do it right. In this photography tutorial I show you how to use it practically in the field and get balanced exposures. There's also comparison photos showing with and without flash, so that you can see exactly how it works. This video is rather epic, weighing in at just under 18 minutes... most of my videos barely make 7! Please stick with it: there's some valuable information in here.!
Filmed with Sony Cyber-shot DSC-WX500.
Equipment: Canon 1DX Mark i, Canon 400mm f5.6 EF USM lens; Canon Speedlite Flash 580 EXii.
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Sophomore Makeout by Silent Partner
Winds of Spring by The 126ers
This is exactly the lesson I needed, THANK YOU
Great information. Answered all my questions in one vlog. Thank you. 👍
Thank you for your videos with all the tips and tricks. With me here in Germany, near Stuttgart, wildlife photography is frowned upon and also forbidden to take pictures with flash. As soon as a photographer appears and he installs his flash, he quickly has a lot of enemies around him and is allowed to listen to abuse and is expelled from the site. I like to watch your videos again and again, keep it up so that I can also learn something about it. Thank you very much.
Here's my epic 18 minute video on Fill-in Flash for Wildlife Photography. Remember - whatever you do, don't Over-flash!!
what's the flash range range
Mine probably makes a difference at about 30 feet.
very interesting a video. I like this tutorial tips. I used it. 👌Thank! Paul.
Again top video Paul, this gives me food for thought about purchasing a flash unit for wildlife. Cheers
Hi Nick. Thanks very much. Some people just don't like using any flash at all, but I do like the ability to brighten up shadow areas on occasion.
Thanks for this. This was really helpful!
I liked before watching It. This is the video I needed explained by you. Thanks
Thank you Andrea!
Very nice explanation Paul of using fill-in flash for bird photography.
Thanks Rick - really appreciate that!
Ty Paul. Great tutorial as usual. Still learning here. But getting better.
Many thanks Janet. Just bear in mind, Fill-flash it not absolutely necessary at all. Like lots of things it depends how you feel and the effect you're after.
Thanks for the information Paul.
Cheers Michael.
Great tips Paul, and some beautiful pictures. The Panasonic Eneloop batteries are an excellent choice and that's all I use.
Many thanks Chris. Yep, those Eneloop seem a good buy.
I bought some Amazon high capacity batteries that I can't tell difference between those and my Eneloop batteries. Worth checking out.
Great video Paul. Covered everything thoroughly. One note of caution I'd like to add.
If you are lucky enough to be photographing wild elephants then don't use the flash as it can trigger unexpected results - like panicking them and you wouldn't want to be around an elephant at that point.
I guess what I'm saying is that there are some dangerous animals out there that can do unpredictable things.
It gets even funnier if you try flash on a night safari. Works well using these same principles with more power but I always stick to mongooses and the like.
Seriously I was warned!
Nice job, lots of info, thanks
Thanks Tim.
Adding a diffuser to the Nikon speedlights would lock the angle of spread to its widest zoom setting, which on the SB910 is 24mm. I have used this with butterflies and insects but would struggle when using longer lenses at longer distances.
Another great video Paul, as enjoyable as it is informative.
Thanks Mike. That's interesting - I should give it a try for the rare occasions I use flash with insects etc.
Thanks Paul for a great straight forward informative video. I am not sure why but I always struggle a little will fill in flash but guess because I don’t practice enough. Take on board the don’t overflash comment an that I think will help considerably. Cheers Keith
Many thanks for that Keith. It’s not always easy. Definitely go for less rather than more. An overflashed image can look terrible!
top video paul very helpfull will try it on some woodland birds
Great to hear Andrew. Good luck - it takes a bit of practice and can be difficult with small birds because they never stop moving!
EPIC!
Multiple flashes to keep up with continuous shutter firing. I saw a great video by Canon USA. The photographer used 1/32nd power on the flash (set manually) and that could keep up with a 1DX in full spate. Ideal for fill in at close range or to add the catchlight in flight.
Sounds interesting. Thanks for sharing the information Benjamin.
I use a home made honeycomb grid which is nust cut drinking straws.
There are plenty of design videos / websites. It works very well in giving me a narrow beam of light.
I mainly use for butterflies when I use myb70-300L lens.
Excellent video Paul - I think I will try this at Adel Dam in the first hide where light is generally quite low. Thanks!
Consider adding a warming gell to the flash during golden hour. Plenty available online.
Hi Roger. Great advice! I've never tried this myself but yes you can add filters that warm or cool the flash output.
Good luck Tim. Be aware if you're using flash, others in the hide might not always approve.!
Great closing comment!!
Great video Paul
Do you have the Magmod for wildlife would love to see a review from you plus settings.
Thanks Gary. No, I've never use one or a better beamer. Of course if I do I will review it.
Hi, I’m searching for a good body and lens for bird photography. I’ve learnt that a used canon 7d(mark ii particularly) can be the best in budget option, but I’m not sure about the lens. What would you recommend for a budget around 1000 USD for a body +lens combined? By the way. thanks for the videos.
Nice informative video Paul, what's your thoughts on the LED lights such as the ones made by Manfrotto
Thanks John. Great question! I think LEDs are a better alternative to using flash as the main light source, e.g. at night. I've used them on wild owls and manage to get a reasonable shutter speed at ISO 2000 purely with the LEDs, no flash at all - quite amazing really! I used about 6 of them. I think this is the future - and they actually provide a much nicer quality of light. Add to that the fact that, in my opinion, they aren't as stressful to wild birds as flash.. and you can't lose!
Which flashlight should we buy budget..can u plz tell us
Another thumbs up for the eneloops. 👍🏻 A point re HSS. You also lose effective distance along with recycle rate. If circumstances allowed such as shooting from a blind, you could set the flash close to the subject and fire it using a tigger. Not ideal but very doable. Curious as to why the Gull was shot at 1/2000th? Cheers.
Yes, that would be possible in some instances to move the flash. As for the gull - I just have to make sure I get the shot that fits the video and makes the point. Normally I would drop the ISO and the shutter sped would have probably halved.
Paul, you might want to consider looking up MagMod which is heaps better than a Better Beamer and safer. I know you may never want to use it, but good to have the knowledge on what is out there. I thought you would use the diffuser when in a forest with a close canopy, as it would be quite dark in there. Is that something where you would consider using the diffuser. Anyway another interesting vlog. Thanks for sharing.
Yes I think that situation might be one for a diffuser, but never really been there so far. Although I am planning to go to Costa Rica so flash might be needed!
Hi Paul, would you be able to do an updated video on your R6 with flash bird photography please.? Thanks I'm finding your videos very helpful Thanks
Thanks for the suggestion. I will try to bear this in mind. Although I'm not sure I've even used fill-flash with it yet!
When you use HHS to enable the use of shorter shutter speeds you do greatly reduce the power(GN)/range of the flash, don't you? But maybe since using faster shutter speeds means you are using wider aperture openings perhaps it compensates to some degree. I'll have to think about that.
thanks for the informative video! I've recently started using a speedlight when shooting birds here in New Zealand and its made such a difference. Quick question - do you use auto ISO and if so does that get overridden when you use TTL mode? In other words which takes priority then - flash or ISO?
Wow, that is a good question Christopher! Can't quite get my head round that one. I know what you mean... I'm just not too sure. I don't think auto ISO should affect the flash..? Anyone else have any thoughts on this one?? I've only ever used manual ISO with flash so far.
Fair question Christopher. Heres the only answer to your question...
Why would you want to use auto i.s.o. the purpose of flash in bird or wildlife photos is to compliment the available light. Or create a pleasing artificial light again to compliment your subject.
Auto i.s.o. would be of absolutely no use in flash photography. Auto i.s.o. is for constantly changing light scenarios.
And flash is to create an artificial light source mixed in part with the available light or alone to overcome the available light, for a perfect exposure.
Thank you for the video. You can also use a better beamer. That saves flash power and you can aim the lightbeam better
Yep. I haven’t tried one so far but it looks good.
Did you not watch the video? Paul said about them
@@louisewalker8471Indeed he told about it. Showing it makes the video more useful
A lot to take in, I think i will have to watch it a few times :)
Yeah, for sure! Just wanted to make sure I covered everything relevant. If in doubt, just reduce the flash output by -1 and 2/3. Or manually set it, maybe around 1/32. Aside from that, fill flash isn’t always necessary at all, and completely depends on the effect you want. And check if you can do the high speed sync, that really helps.
@@PaulMiguelPhotography I think the mk iv has HSS, i will have to check now lol..... just checked,and this is what it says..." The HSS option synchronizes the flash with all shutter speeds available on the Mark IV, from 1/8,000 to 30 seconds. (Note though, that a full-power flash almost invariably lasts longer than 1/8,000 second, so you won't see the full flash power when working with a shutter speed that fast.)"
God this stuff gets complicated... my brain can only do so much techy stuff!
@@PaulMiguelPhotography LOL
Hi Paul
Loving these videos your putting out! I was wondering do you ever miss the fact the 400mm f5.6 doesn't have IS? I've been think about getting this 400mm lens but without the IS I wonder if I would miss it! All the best!
I haven't had any problem using mine on an 80D or 6D MkII, but I've used high shutter speeds and usually a monopod. It's a great lens in my opinion.
I wouldn't be without mine :)
Many thanks Mathew! I've never been very bothered by IS. This only makes a difference when hand-holding at slow shutter speeds which I rarely do. I do have IS on my 500mm which I sometimes use to help stabilise the viewfinder for flight shots.
👏👏👏👏👏 Antonino Italia 🇮🇹
Thanks Paul. I've never used flash in bird photography as I assume it would bother the birds. I gather this isn't the case?
Thanks Shane. I didn't really touch upon this and probably should have. It does depend on the subject - some birds seem to ignore it, others not. I'd start by trying a very low flash output to test their reaction. As for negative effects on the birds - using flash at night for example would be very different and I wouldn't want to do it.
@@PaulMiguelPhotography Thanks. That makes perfect sense! :-)
Thanks for that Mark. There is some good information out there as you alluded too.
I've been nervous at the thought of using a flash because I worry that it could spook the wildlife, or cause some distress. What are your thoughts on this?
Hi Adam. I’ve come to the conclusion that it’s not a good idea to use full flash on nocturnal subjects, e.g. owls. With fill in flash I think that the effect is a lot less and I doubt it has a negative impact. If you do it right then it’s is not too powerful. Occasionally birds have reacted, so I try to test the reaction first by angling away, or slightly obscuring the flash head.
Hey there, great video with lots of good info.. Because flashes are expensive, I’m wondering how much you use one for wildlife. Is it worth the $500expense??
Thanks
Hi Brian. Good question. To be honest, I rarely use it so if I had to live without, I probably could.
Try Godox speedlight, brilliant and much cheaper than canon etc
Sir,
In Bird Photography or Wild photography, normally using Lenses having focal length more than 250mm and the distance from the subject will be more than the reachable distance of flash light. Then what is the logic of using flash light.
I am confused. Please clarify.
The subject does need to be fairly close. Some flashguns will reach about 40 feet I think.
I do use flash but very very rarely, and I do have a flash extender but as you say it’s only a tad on dark grey 'flat' days. My speedlights all have HSS and most are around GN59, I also have some Godox external power packs. I look like I’m going into the Amazon not Mere Sands Woods but that's the advantage of a mobility scooter carrying everything for you. You can get some great RCS shots, though I've never been successful. I don’t use it ever to over power bright daylight as some do. If I’m going to use it on a raptor I would go at 1- 1 2/3 stops down because of the sensitivity of their eyes but usually I have it at at least 2/3 of a stop down for other subjects. I'm very wary of disturbing wildlife, deer seem to be totally oblivious of it though roe are my only experience. It is a great tool if used correctly and sensibly. However, I still worry about people photographing owls at sunset with their speedlight on full power to use the inverse square law to make everything else black. There's research saying that could be dangerous to raptors eyesight due to the way the I cranial nerve works, equally there’s research saying there’s no proof of this. It’s also called "steel eye" with birds if anyone wants to look it up.
A very interesting video Paul, one I'm sure will raise some good debates as it’s quite a controversial subject to broach. Well done on how you put it forward and explaining the perimeters of how it should be used.
Hi Mark. Thanks for sharing that. I'm sure many viewers will be interested in this topic. I didn't touch upon the potential negative effects of flash, on wildlife, in this video - mainly because I don't see fill-in, done with natural light, as a huge problem. But - you raised a really good point: should we be using flash on birds and animals (and possibly smaller creatures for macro too?).
I see using flash as a main light source very differently. Over the years I've come to the conclusion that using flash on owls, at night, is not good. There is indeed scientific research, and anecdotal evidence that it can have a negative impact. I'd simply say that if you or I had a flash in our face in the dark, we'd be temporarily blinded - that's what happens to an owl - in fact some research said it could take nearly 30 minutes for their eyes to go back to normal! That's a lot of time if the bird desperately needed to catch food. I've photographed wild owls in Serbia at night on many occasions, but I've never used flash on them, ever. I'm actually a big fan of LEDs which in my view cause a lot less stress. Thanks for raising this point Mark - I hope people share their views.
Paul Miguel Photography I remember your brilliant video of the town where all the LEO (?) congregate, brilliant work. I think our views are very much the same, we want that awesome shot but always with no impact on the wildlife.
@@markharris5771 Yes, it was LEOs Mark. (I hope to go back this winter??). I think everyone is guilty having 'pushed it' a bit too far at some time, and I admit that I know I've done that in the past; none of us are perfect. But definitely, I never want to cause distress or change the natural behaviour - it's a horrible feeling when that happens.
Paul Miguel Photography I was born in 1960 and my bird 'watching' started in the late 60s early 70s, unfortunately that 'watching' consisted of stealing their eggs. I'm not proud of it now but I can’t deny it, I know Chris Packham admits the same. I totally agree that we have all made mistakes as most of us when we first get a speedlight haven’t a clue how to use it, especially with wildlife. I mentioned the LEO video as I'm sure you used the street lighting there.
@@markharris5771 My Granddad did the same when he was a kid. Later in life he became a real nature lover. Nothing wrong with admitting our mistakes, although sometimes we just didn't know any better.
So if you want to change the flash in camera... where do you leave the flash in its settings so when using camera it won get confused ??
Should be the ETTL setting, so they talk to each other.
I recently purchased a MagMod which is a flash extender for my Canon 600mm f/4 II. I've never used flash for wildlife photography It does seem to work The issue I have with it is that if you set it to 70 -200 zoom it overrides your frames per second to 200 instead of 1600 or higher for birds in flight. When they tip in flight is when I'd like to brighten under their wings or the side of their face instead of getting shadows. However 200 fps leaves you with lots of wing - motion blur. Is there a way that I can still use the flash at higher frame rates? or is this only meant for perching birds. I'm not real familiar with my Canon 600 EXT - RT especially for wildlife.
do you mean the shutter speed Johnathan? That it defaults to 1/200.?
@@PaulMiguelPhotography lol correct, it does it automatically, the zoom flash setting is set to 70 but max is 200 which it defaults to. I assume it’s because it can’t continuously flash that fast when I think about it. Which makes me think flash is better for stationary subjects than for birds in flight. Im using an R5 which is 20fps in electronic shutter.
@@photoapeal So there are two things here. 1. You should be able to use a higher shutter speed - just switch the flash on to high speed sync. It's at 9 minutes in this video, otherwise it will always max out around 1/200. 2. Yes, it probably won't work if trying to shoot continuous frames, whatever the shutter speed - check out extra power sources for flash this might allow it..?
Thanks for doing this video Paul! So what about when you're in the golden hour? I was just taking pics of my dog and tried the fill flash and the dog came out white (she is a white dog) and the parts that were not lit by the flash were the nice golden color we crave. They make a flash holder that will get your flash higher than the hot shoe if you have problems with red eye. I think I'm going to get one as I do have that issue with taking pictures of my dog, which is my test subject. She is usually a lot closer than a bird would be, so it may not be needed in nature.
Thanks for the comment. As Roger described below, you can get gels/filters that will change the colour balance of the flash such as add a warming effect. Thanks for watching!
I discovered my Nikon Z6 2 doesn't have TTL,but my Z50 does.
This guy Jan Wegener has some videos on using a Beemer. Aussie I think
He's very good - and a master at fill flash.
Interesting your comments on the Better Beamer. Jan Wagener has a very good video on it I thought you might be interested in watching. Jan's rig has a flash and better beamers pretty much permanently installed. For my part, I own one, but haven't really used it since my subjects seem to be close enough without. ruclips.net/video/Gb7e2cfgrPg/видео.html
It's very unusual that how are you using flash with extender over the hot shoe of the camera . I think probability of still eye is 99% !!
I wish know this a mouth ago would save me £50 on a flash extender
What did you buy?
@@PaulMiguelPhotography JJC FX-C580 Flashgun Multiplier Extender Diffuser Box
You left out a lot of important details as usual. You'll need a transmitter or an off shoe cord. You also failed to mention the importance of placing the flash as far as possible from the lens axis. Custom brackets Tilt head adjustable flash mount for $99 at Adorama makes a great one that connects to any dovetail attachment found on gimbal heads. Also important is a good Fresnel lens flash extender either manufactured or a homemade version which is what I've used for decades.
And a battery pack cp e4n gives you a much longer battery life and extra recycle time boost. I recommend purchasing a used if money is a problem for you.
FLASH AT NIGHT
Yes flash can be used at night with no harm to any nocturnal animal. I have photographed hundreds of nocturnal wildlife from owls to wolves at kill sights feeding at night. And of course the wolves were skittish but quickly returned to feeding as soon as they realized I was no threat to them. The brief flash of light has no bad effects on animals. Shooting since 1977 and I have never seen nor heard of a single documented case where any animal was ever harmed from a flash being used to capture an image of them.
Just be sure to wear a head lamp with or without a red or green filter. I use a headlamp made by Energizer that has three options white,red (mammals,birds and amphibians) or green for (wild hogs) actual light options. It's great for spotting frogs as well as salamanders and other creatures at night.
Very interesting video and I could have learned more from it but I had to abandon it after about 6 minutes because that dreadful 'music' coming in randomly was distracting and irritating.
Thanks for the feedback, I will certainly take that on board next time.
Hi, I’m searching for a good body and lens for bird photography. I’ve learnt that a used canon 7d(mark ii particularly) can be the best in budget option, but I’m not sure about the lens. What would you recommend for a budget around 1000 USD for a body +lens combined? By the way. thanks for the videos.
I think that would be a struggle. Possibly a used 7d mark ii and a used canon 400mm f5.6 - but that would still be over 1000 dollars I think.
@@PaulMiguelPhotography do you recommend anything in this price range? (I used to have nikon d7100+Nikon 24-300mm. the body was ok but the buffer wasn't satisfying and the lens wasn't sharp)
I just sold my 7d MK II used for $725.00 which is fairly inexpensive for a great camera for wildlife, you may find it cheaper in the $500 - 700 range but may not be in as good of shape or a high frame count, they are rated for 200,000 shots. On the Glass The Sigma Contemporary 150 - 600 is $899.00 new & it's a good lens I've read it's a bit soft at 600mm but have seen some pro quality results. Wildlife photography is very expensive because of the extra reach you need. You can probably get into it with a $1,600 - 2,000 budget realistically and do it right. This is way less expensive than the cost of some camera body's alone.