For reference, that tilt plate completely de-couples the primary mirror from the focuser. What it boils down to, it is the only true way to collimate your RC scope, and hold the collimation. Those small "tilt ring" adapters that get screwed on? Throw them in the trash - they are worthless. This also completely eliminates focuser tilt (if you have a good focuser) by using M6 bolts to hold the image train, vs the factory M4 collimation screws holding both the primary, AND your image train. Now the M4 factory bolts hold just the primary. Alex has the very first or second prototype made. The design has been streamlined into a kit that can be sent home, and you just need a few tools to install it. It can be done on the tailgate of a truck. Mine held collimation over 4000 miles in the back of my truck during the eclipse. Source: I make them.
I bought my RC used, and out of collimation (of course). I though I collimated it quite well - donuts seemed to be perfectly round, but then I realised I cannot get it into good focus under high magnification - it looks like it has some serious spherical aberrations, so now I need to plate solve an image to find how much off it is from its native focal length, move secondary mirror, do it probably few more times, and then collimate the secondary again. When other scopes just work, RC one is a challenge itself, but I like it.
I recognized that scope right away with the custom isolation plate on the rear cell. I just purchased an AT8RC and deciding if I should use the factory tilt plate
The adapter shown in the video is an impressive bit of machining. I think for now I will just wait till I try out my scope before going with the tilt plate or mods
For reference, that tilt plate completely de-couples the primary mirror from the focuser. What it boils down to, it is the only true way to collimate your RC scope, and hold the collimation. Those small "tilt ring" adapters that get screwed on? Throw them in the trash - they are worthless. This also completely eliminates focuser tilt (if you have a good focuser) by using M6 bolts to hold the image train, vs the factory M4 collimation screws holding both the primary, AND your image train. Now the M4 factory bolts hold just the primary. Alex has the very first or second prototype made. The design has been streamlined into a kit that can be sent home, and you just need a few tools to install it. It can be done on the tailgate of a truck. Mine held collimation over 4000 miles in the back of my truck during the eclipse.
Source: I make them.
How do I get in touch with you if I'd like to order one for my telescope?
what is that extra plate on the back of the scope for?
The entire video is about it.
I bought my RC used, and out of collimation (of course). I though I collimated it quite well - donuts seemed to be perfectly round, but then I realised I cannot get it into good focus under high magnification - it looks like it has some serious spherical aberrations, so now I need to plate solve an image to find how much off it is from its native focal length, move secondary mirror, do it probably few more times, and then collimate the secondary again.
When other scopes just work, RC one is a challenge itself, but I like it.
I have an RC in my future i hope. :)
I recognized that scope right away with the custom isolation plate on the rear cell. I just purchased an AT8RC and deciding if I should use the factory tilt plate
I have an RC6 and got the GSO Tilt Plate, it works but can let in some light as it's just 2 pieces with 3 sets of screws but it was $100 to.
It is not the same thing, as the tilt plate is conected to primary mirror, but provides the degree of freedom required.
The adapter shown in the video is an impressive bit of machining. I think for now I will just wait till I try out my scope before going with the tilt plate or mods
@@MikeyGuildNavigator-mn7so Thanks!
I dont think you will be happy with that band-aid that is the GSO tilt ring.