Excellent job, I’m in the UK and always wondered how you did things like cathedral ceilings in the USA so know after watching your video it explains it all, you really really did a fantastic job and great explanation, thanks man !
The not so typical birds mouth rafter cut could split on the inside even though the rafters are oversized. I suggest driving one or two 4.5" to 6" Simpson truss screws in that area to avoid splitting. It looks like that you had to match the existing eaves, a reason for the deep birds-mouth cut. You did show a few things to shed light on my sections and details.
Great work bro!!, im doing an exterior porch with vaulted ceiling, but is 30’ ft long, what could i use for the ridge?, should i add a support in the middle?
Question on the Cathedral rafters. My entry door is dead center under the ridge. With a 12ft span can i use a header (size?) to hold up the ridge on that end?
Was this necessary to avoid collar ties? Tearing my roof off next year and was just going to do a ridge board. 8 pitch with a metal roof so snow load will be minimal
Thanks for the video, I am looking to build a cathedral ceiling over the a room that is 16x16. On one end of the roof I have no problem placing a king post to hold up the ridge beam. However on the other side I am hoping to install a sliding door running across the width of the room and therefore would not have the flexibility to have add king post running all the way down to the foundation to support the other end of the ridge beam. Do you have any recommendations on work arounds? Possible to run a post down to the header and have the header support that weight? Thanks for your thoughts!
Thank you for posting this...this is exactly what I was looking for. My room addition is gonna be 16 wide by 20 ft long. Do you think I could use the double LVL like you did or would I need another one added. My outside walls are gonna be made of 2 x 6 and would that same bird mouth design work for me by adding an extra 1.5 Inches to rest on the 2x6 top plates? Also your header on the opposite end of the house ...is that LVL as well? Anyways thanks for the video!! ***
Late to the party - any structural advantage to adding a small horizantal below the LVL at the top or just cosmetic? I'm working on plans presently but thought of adding a small section of flat to run electrical and add drop lighting (figured it'd be easier to mount on a narrow flat strip down the middle of the ceiling than a slope and doesn't limit the lighting choices as much as a slope). Logically it seems likek it would just tie the two sides rafters together and perhaps limit some sheer?
Great framing! I do have a question - how will the drywall be installed in a perfect point if there’s the lvl beam in the middle and the rafters are going to it but not underneath it in a pointed shape? I’m asking because I have a similar ceiling and I’d like the drywall to be pointed with no flat part so I wanna make sure my framing is correct. Thanks! :)
@@MyDIYAdventures oh I see 👌🏾 thanks for the reply! And what if I want a pointed roof without trusses or exposed beam? How should the framing be like? 🙏🏼
Hi - dumb blonde question: I want to expand 2nd floor bathroom and have cathedral ceiling in there. Understand that the center of each gable end is the post that bears the load from the roof. I don't have a wall on the first floor underneath where one of the end posts would go . . . it's in the middle of the livingroom. What's the fix? Is there another way to transfer the load down into the ground without a post in my living room? Thanks
I got my ridge beam up last week and I'm cutting rafters tomorrow. I haven't considered using gussets. My plan was to put blocks in between the rafters then use collar ties. Do you think that will work or do I need gussets? It's a 20x20 building. Ridge beam is five and a half by 15. It's a 5 12 pitch and raptors are 2x12. Is there an advantage to use gussets instead of collar ties?
Will a 2 ply 9 1/4” LVL header for French Doors 72” wide work to support a 6x6 post supporting a 2ply cathedral ceiling ridge beam 18’ long? I’m building a 16’x16’ screened vcovered porch over a 32’x16’ deck I built. In southwest Michigan… High Snow load (CS) Thank you in advance… I’ve tried researching the answer and can’t pin point it
I would guess that would not be enough to support it. A lumber yard or maybe even a big box store should be able to find the correct engineering plans for ya.
Awesome knowledge, skill and craftsmanship! Why did you inside bird mouth those rafters? It makes sense to me, I guess it's better than totally removing all the wood to let it sit flat? Are those rafters then notched? And not bird mouthed? Oh I see you did it for ceiling esthetics. Again, excellent foresight.
The 2x12 rafters are required here for insulation. I suppose if you’re in a more temperate climate, or use a more efficient insulation, they could be smaller.
@@MyDIYAdventures thanks for reply. My point was that if we can use less wide rafters but with higher thickness. For example my roof has 190x35 cm rafters, can we use two 90x35 rafters connected to each other instead? I mean with the same span, instead of one 190x35, I use two 90x35..
LVLs are great products but I was wondering if you have installed parallams in similar structural jobs ? Does one have an advantage over the other ? Either way, excellent work.
Hi, I'm designing a cathedral ceiling on a 64 wide by 40 deep garage/ apartment post frame on an ICF foundation with 6 inch SIP's on the outside of the walls and 8 inch SIP's on the top of the rafters. The garage is 40 wide by 40 deep and the attached apartment will be 24 wide by 40 deep. The ridge beam will be 64 feet but will have support at the wall that divides the shop from the apartment. What size of ridge beam should I use over the garage? I was thinking of using three custom king trusses in the garage portion out of glue lambs with 1/2" CNC power coated flat plate with bolts on all the joints rather than making it a timber frame style with the wood pegs. I would like the 8 inch thick SIP's to have a 3 ft. overhang but 2 1/2 would be OK. I was also thinking of making the ridge beam like a railroad truss side panel on a bridge. It would have an upper ridge beam and a lower ridge beam with diagonals and verticals between with something like a 3 1/2 to 4 ft. height on that ridge beam. My roof joist would be 6 by material about every 4 ft. Also, what height of roof joist should I need on a 12/ 10 pitch if I want to use 6 by material every about 4 ft.? Thanks!
@@MyDIYAdventures All I've done in the past was design it and go down to the building department and get my stamp of approval to start building. When the inspectors came buy, they didn't say anything. I guess I over built but followed all the other codes. It might be a good idea to get an engineer to check it out because I would hate to over spend on lumber and have to replace the beam with something else. Decisions decisions.
@@MyDIYAdventures All I think I need is the building inspectors approval once he sees the framing I think. I think I'll play it safe and get an engineer's stamp of approval. That would probably be best.Yes, I think I'll take your advice on this one. Thanks. Oh, I'm building and designing it all by myself with no help at all except for concrete days where you need a few extra hands.
That reverse birds mouth is genius, I’ve never seen that in 5 years of building. Solves a lot of problems. What’s it called technically? Did the inspector have any issues with it?
I am retired carpenter...Love the idea of no joists And I kinda get your explanation of rafters bearing half the load and wall bearing half the weight vertically..Difference is for me is my span on walls is 18' and still would not use 12" joists, prob 2x8 would work for me on 16" ctrs
I'd love to know how you did that. I'm planning an upstairs remodel with a vaulted ceiling and don't plan to rent a lift (I tent to use old school methods like jacks and hoists. @@MyDIYAdventures
@@MyDIYAdventures OK. Looks pretty big and heavy to me. I don’t think I’d attempt that on my own. I’m new at learning this, but your ridge beam, gable beams and rafter assembly looks interesting. I haven’t seen your exact rafter design before.
great job mate 👍 bit scary how many people in these comments are willing to trust an engineer that they arent paying and arent insured by! planning on something similar myself... 30 foot span, 12 foot long steel flat bar, sandwiched by 2 timbers to stop it buckling (flitched beam). will be a pain to lift up!
Hi have a question my roof rafters are 24 OC in my existing garage, now I'm converting in a room but in the blueprinting it say I have to place Ceiling joints 2x12 @ 16 OC. Do I have to place it @16 oc or what does the inspector would say.? Thank you.
@@MyDIYAdventures You don't, you fill the stud cavity with insulation and don't install soffit vents. It's not a roof that needs ventilation, because there should be no airspace if insulated properly.
Awesome video. Did you have this permitted? I'm in the process of doing an addition this exact size and was wondering if you'd be able to share your docs. Thanks in advance!
I’d be much happier with the occasional joist but then I haven’t done the calculations. Lack of joists makes for wasted space with a cathedral roof. Also heating or cooling a lot of extra air to no purpose. Those posts at either end are taking a lot of compression from some very heavy Timbers and whatever the roof is made of. Interesting video to show how it’s done. In cathedrals it improves the acoustics and gives an ambience. In a shed it loses purpose.
They’re not cut too deep, there’s way more than a 2x6 worth still untouched. The 2x12s are only required because the ceiling needs to have an R value of at least 38.
Ok, I’ll head back there and tear the drywall down in their finished addition and add hangers…then I’ll call the building inspectors and tell them they’ve been wrong in passing these for the last 25+ years👍
Excellent job, I’m in the UK and always wondered how you did things like cathedral ceilings in the USA so know after watching your video it explains it all, you really really did a fantastic job and great explanation, thanks man !
Awesome, thank you! I never know if my explanations make any sense LOL
Wow 2x12. Awesome!!!! Looks great.
Thank you!
Your craft is top marks sir.
Thank you!
The not so typical birds mouth rafter cut could split on the inside even though the rafters are oversized. I suggest driving one or two 4.5" to 6" Simpson truss screws in that area to avoid splitting. It looks like that you had to match the existing eaves, a reason for the deep birds-mouth cut. You did show a few things to shed light on my sections and details.
Nah, those rafters ain’t going anywhere
Nice work man!
Thank you kind sir!👍
Great as usual Sir.
awesome work man!! loved the video and your detailed explanation!! keep up the great work!
Thanks for watching! And thanks for actually understanding what I was trying to explain LOL
Very helpful. Considering a cathedral ceiling for 16 feet of our home.
Great work bro!!, im doing an exterior porch with vaulted ceiling, but is 30’ ft long, what could i use for the ridge?, should i add a support in the middle?
I would definitely consult with a structural engineer on that.
@@MyDIYAdventures yes thats a good idea, thanks bro.
Looking at building a detached for a golf simulator room and I need lots of clearance on the ceiling. This looks like a great solution
Vaulted trusses are an option also.
I have some questions. I'm adding a 14x16 addition off my gable end of existing house. Gonna do a cathedral...
Fire away! Maybe we can come up with some answers for ya
Excellent exsplaination
Thanks! I’m never sure if what I say makes any sense LOL
Question on the Cathedral rafters. My entry door is dead center under the ridge. With a 12ft span can i use a header (size?) to hold up the ridge on that end?
Yeah, it would have to be engineered for load bearing, but you should be able to do that 👍
Was this necessary to avoid collar ties? Tearing my roof off next year and was just going to do a ridge board. 8 pitch with a metal roof so snow load will be minimal
Yes, you need a beam to carry the load vertically to avoid collar ties
Do you cut a bevel at the top of the subfacia to match the roof pitch?
Sometimes, it all kind of depends on the situation.
Thanks for the video, I am looking to build a cathedral ceiling over the a room that is 16x16. On one end of the roof I have no problem placing a king post to hold up the ridge beam. However on the other side I am hoping to install a sliding door running across the width of the room and therefore would not have the flexibility to have add king post running all the way down to the foundation to support the other end of the ridge beam. Do you have any recommendations on work arounds? Possible to run a post down to the header and have the header support that weight? Thanks for your thoughts!
Yeah, you can do it that way, but it would probably need to be a pretty big, engineered header. You’d have to check your local building code.
Great idea i think im going to use it on my coop
Great video. I’ve a question. Can I cut some ceiling joists to have a bigger space as I’m doing a mezzanine’s/lift conversion in a 6m x 6m room?
If you’re going to remove joists, you’ll have to beef up the ridge beam to carry the rafter load.
Thank you for posting this...this is exactly what I was looking for. My room addition is gonna be 16 wide by 20 ft long. Do you think I could use the double LVL like you did or would I need another one added. My outside walls are gonna be made of 2 x 6 and would that same bird mouth design work for me by adding an extra 1.5 Inches to rest on the 2x6 top plates? Also your header on the opposite end of the house ...is that LVL as well? Anyways thanks for the video!! ***
I got your reply on the LVL Header from other posts.
2x6 walls shouldn’t make any difference on the birds mouth. But be sure to check with your local building inspector!
@@MyDIYAdventures Thanks again for the video...I'll see if you have some other vids aswell!!
Late to the party - any structural advantage to adding a small horizantal below the LVL at the top or just cosmetic? I'm working on plans presently but thought of adding a small section of flat to run electrical and add drop lighting (figured it'd be easier to mount on a narrow flat strip down the middle of the ceiling than a slope and doesn't limit the lighting choices as much as a slope). Logically it seems likek it would just tie the two sides rafters together and perhaps limit some sheer?
Actually, that’s a really good idea if you don’t care about the beam being covered.
Awesome job explaining sir!
Thanks!
Great job sir
Thank you much!
Good video. Just wondering what size the beam is?
I believe it was 14” x 1 3/4” doubled up…probably 16’-18’ long I think.
Great framing! I do have a question - how will the drywall be installed in a perfect point if there’s the lvl beam in the middle and the rafters are going to it but not underneath it in a pointed shape? I’m asking because I have a similar ceiling and I’d like the drywall to be pointed with no flat part so I wanna make sure my framing is correct. Thanks! :)
If you want it to come to a point you should use a scissor truss. Framing with rafters like this leaves the beam exposed in the room.
@@MyDIYAdventures oh I see 👌🏾 thanks for the reply! And what if I want a pointed roof without trusses or exposed beam? How should the framing be like? 🙏🏼
I suppose you could install another set of “rafters” from the wall to a point under the beam just to hold the drywall.
@@MyDIYAdventuresaww right , good idea 😃 thank you !
Hi - dumb blonde question: I want to expand 2nd floor bathroom and have cathedral ceiling in there. Understand that the center of each gable end is the post that bears the load from the roof. I don't have a wall on the first floor underneath where one of the end posts would go . . . it's in the middle of the livingroom. What's the fix? Is there another way to transfer the load down into the ground without a post in my living room? Thanks
Sounds like you would need a massive beam in the living room ceiling to carry the weight.
@@MyDIYAdventures - THANKS!! Appreciate the feedback.
Could you show us your structural calculations for the roof please. Can you include tencile limits on your nails?
Ummm…nope
LOL
Did you do a raised heel rafter so you could edge insulation at the sill line
Nope, code here doesn’t call for that.
I got my ridge beam up last week and I'm cutting rafters tomorrow. I haven't considered using gussets. My plan was to put blocks in between the rafters then use collar ties. Do you think that will work or do I need gussets? It's a 20x20 building. Ridge beam is five and a half by 15. It's a 5 12 pitch and raptors are 2x12. Is there an advantage to use gussets instead of collar ties?
I don’t think there’s any difference in which you use.
... Nice Work ! ...
Thank you!
@@MyDIYAdventures ... Indeed ! ... You're Welcome. ...
Will a 2 ply 9 1/4” LVL header for French Doors 72” wide work to support a 6x6 post supporting a 2ply cathedral ceiling ridge beam 18’ long?
I’m building a 16’x16’ screened vcovered porch over a 32’x16’ deck I built. In southwest Michigan… High Snow load (CS)
Thank you in advance… I’ve tried researching the answer and can’t pin point it
I would guess that would not be enough to support it. A lumber yard or maybe even a big box store should be able to find the correct engineering plans for ya.
Nice work
Thanks
Awesome knowledge, skill and craftsmanship! Why did you inside bird mouth those rafters? It makes sense to me, I guess it's better than totally removing all the wood to let it sit flat? Are those rafters then notched? And not bird mouthed? Oh I see you did it for ceiling esthetics. Again, excellent foresight.
Can cathedral ceiling be done on a 29ft , span.... 20' x 29'
I’m sure it could, but check with an architect or engineer for proper sizing of beams!
How can use rafters with lower width? Can decrease the span and use lower width rafters?
The 2x12 rafters are required here for insulation. I suppose if you’re in a more temperate climate, or use a more efficient insulation, they could be smaller.
@@MyDIYAdventures thanks for reply.
My point was that if we can use less wide rafters but with higher thickness. For example my roof has 190x35 cm rafters, can we use two 90x35 rafters connected to each other instead? I mean with the same span, instead of one 190x35, I use two 90x35..
What is the maximum length of the lvl beam from side to side to securely support the rafters?
As long as you want, but the bigger the span, the bigger the beam would need to be.
LVLs are great products but I was wondering if you have installed parallams in similar structural jobs ? Does one have an advantage over the other ? Either way, excellent work.
Never used a parallam, but I’m assuming it wouldn’t make any difference.
I think I’ll need to do this same thing for the second floor of my garage.
It would be doable if you’re trying to avoid scissor trusses👍
When are we building that thing anyway???
@@MyDIYAdventures haha 😂 if I could get some plumbing/HVAC/septic/electricians to call me back, probably in spring. At this rate in the fall haha
What are they, union?😂
Are those support beams running to the slab supported by an extra footing or nah, I’m hoping I don’t have to do that lol
Yeah, they need to be fully supported all the way down to the foundation.
@@MyDIYAdventures okay sounds good, I kinda figured but didn’t know for sure. I’ve gotten both answers
Go with the easiest answer your local building code allows!
Hi, I'm designing a cathedral ceiling on a 64 wide by 40 deep garage/ apartment post frame on an ICF foundation with 6 inch SIP's on the outside of the walls and 8 inch SIP's on the top of the rafters. The garage is 40 wide by 40 deep and the attached apartment will be 24 wide by 40 deep. The ridge beam will be 64 feet but will have support at the wall that divides the shop from the apartment. What size of ridge beam should I use over the garage? I was thinking of using three custom king trusses in the garage portion out of glue lambs with 1/2" CNC power coated flat plate with bolts on all the joints rather than making it a timber frame style with the wood pegs. I would like the 8 inch thick SIP's to have a 3 ft. overhang but 2 1/2 would be OK. I was also thinking of making the ridge beam like a railroad truss side panel on a bridge. It would have an upper ridge beam and a lower ridge beam with diagonals and verticals between with something like a 3 1/2 to 4 ft. height on that ridge beam. My roof joist would be 6 by material about every 4 ft. Also, what height of roof joist should I need on a 12/ 10 pitch if I want to use 6 by material every about 4 ft.? Thanks!
Seriously? LOL, you need an engineer!
@@MyDIYAdventures All I've done in the past was design it and go down to the building department and get my stamp of approval to start building. When the inspectors came buy, they didn't say anything. I guess I over built but followed all the other codes. It might be a good idea to get an engineer to check it out because I would hate to over spend on lumber and have to replace the beam with something else. Decisions decisions.
What you’re describing would need an engineer’s stamp here in my neck of the woods just to get the permit.
@@MyDIYAdventures All I think I need is the building inspectors approval once he sees the framing I think. I think I'll play it safe and get an engineer's stamp of approval. That would probably be best.Yes, I think I'll take your advice on this one. Thanks. Oh, I'm building and designing it all by myself with no help at all except for concrete days where you need a few extra hands.
Is it allowed to drill holes through these roof rafters for electrical wiring?
I believe so
That reverse birds mouth is genius, I’ve never seen that in 5 years of building. Solves a lot of problems. What’s it called technically? Did the inspector have any issues with it?
I dunno what it’s called, reverse birds mouth sounds good though! Inspectors have never had an issue with it.
Any ideas how much framing costs/sq ft with this type of ceiling? I need to extend my garage with no ceiling.
Honestly I have no idea right now. I was just labor on this job and materials have gone through the roof again recently.
@@MyDIYAdventures you're right about that! Thanks for the great video.
how did you get that LVL beam in yourself??
Slowly and methodically!
All those gussets have pilot holes?
No way! Just used good ol’ wood screws👍
Are your rafters 16” on center?
Yes
I am retired carpenter...Love the idea of no joists And I kinda get your explanation of rafters bearing half the load and wall bearing half the weight vertically..Difference is for me is my span on walls is 18' and still would not use 12" joists, prob 2x8 would work for me on 16" ctrs
The 2x12s are only required for insulation purposes. Where I’m at, a ceiling needs to have at least an R38.
I’m building a cabin 22ft wide and my room going be like yours but 36 foot long open. You think 2 24inch lvls wood work
The lumber supplier you get the LVLs from should be able to get you the engineering plans for them.
I want to do this in my garage the low height of the beams prevents me from installing a 2 post lift.
A lot of people make that modification to fit a lift👍
How would you do something similar for a hip roof?
Honestly I don’t know, that would take some major engineering.
Great video. Did you put the main beam in also yourself? How did you get that in place?
I did! It went up in 2 pieces….slowly LOL
I'd love to know how you did that. I'm planning an upstairs remodel with a vaulted ceiling and don't plan to rent a lift (I tent to use old school methods like jacks and hoists. @@MyDIYAdventures
What span is that? If the beam needed to span around 30 feet/10m would it need to be much larger?
I’m not a professional, but watching here to learn. You lifted that ridge beam yourself by hand?
Yes, slowly, and in two pieces, then nailed the beams together once they were in place.
@@MyDIYAdventures OK. Looks pretty big and heavy to me. I don’t think I’d attempt that on my own. I’m new at learning this, but your ridge beam, gable beams and rafter assembly looks interesting. I haven’t seen your exact rafter design before.
great job mate 👍 bit scary how many people in these comments are willing to trust an engineer that they arent paying and arent insured by!
planning on something similar myself... 30 foot span, 12 foot long steel flat bar, sandwiched by 2 timbers to stop it buckling (flitched beam). will be a pain to lift up!
Wow! That’s gonna be heavy! Good luck!!!
Hi have a question my roof rafters are
24 OC in my existing garage, now I'm converting in a room but in the blueprinting it say I have to place Ceiling joints 2x12 @ 16 OC. Do I have to place it @16 oc or what does the inspector would say.? Thank you.
My guess would be that they do need to be 16”.
Please tell me that's not ridge vent on a cathedral ceiling?
It is, how else would you vent it?
@@MyDIYAdventures You don't, you fill the stud cavity with insulation and don't install soffit vents. It's not a roof that needs ventilation, because there should be no airspace if insulated properly.
Code here requires it to be baffled and vented
@@MyDIYAdventures Ok, so you installed baffles, then it's not so bad.
Awesome video. Did you have this permitted? I'm in the process of doing an addition this exact size and was wondering if you'd be able to share your docs. Thanks in advance!
Yes, it was permitted through a contractor. Sorry I don’t have any of the drawings any longer.
I’d be much happier with the occasional joist but then I haven’t done the calculations. Lack of joists makes for wasted space with a cathedral roof. Also heating or cooling a lot of extra air to no purpose. Those posts at either end are taking a lot of compression from some very heavy Timbers and whatever the roof is made of. Interesting video to show how it’s done. In cathedrals it improves the acoustics and gives an ambience. In a shed it loses purpose.
This is a room addition on a house.
Did you design this yourself? Or did you get some design help from an Engineer? Impressive.
I built this for a contractor, he drew up the plans.
Hangers at the ridge since the cut is too deep.
They’re not cut too deep, there’s way more than a 2x6 worth still untouched. The 2x12s are only required because the ceiling needs to have an R value of at least 38.
@@MyDIYAdventures Not exceed 1/4 the depth of the member. Add hangers.
Ok, I’ll head back there and tear the drywall down in their finished addition and add hangers…then I’ll call the building inspectors and tell them they’ve been wrong in passing these for the last 25+ years👍
Wow
I don't like the birds mouth cutt... you might as well use 2x6 rafters with hangers & add a 2 x4 rip or a rip for insulation...
You do you, Boo!
🌵🌵🌵👍👍👍
How and what type of material did you use for ridge vent?
I didn’t shingle it, but it was probably an Owens Corning ridge vent.
Is he drinking a beer on the tour?
I wish!😂
I did an apprenticeship with my builder father and he didn't explain anything like this....he just rushed around and demanded shit.
That’s pretty normal for a jobsite LOL
@@MyDIYAdventures yes but when the apprentices never learn a thing...
That's not a healthy job site.?
Apprentice abuse is a.real thing
It definitely is
Some people can teach and some can’t. Everybody has different gifts.
@@kayBTR some have shit all gifts but actually act like they are a gift...
That's my dad
I dont get it
What’s not to get?
Why the hell did you use that intro sound?
Did it offend you?
@@MyDIYAdventures No it's just unnecessary. But that's a great response.
None of that seems right to me. Sorry
Welp, Jim says it’s wrong…tear it all down!
You are definitely not a carpenter. You also don't know how to hold a square
I really don’t care what you think, just that you watch…and for that I thank you! #adrevenue
How do you measure spans to find out what size of rafters you need to use?
If you mean the width of the rafter, cathedral ceilings are always 2x12. If you mean the length of the rafter, just use the old Pythagorean Theorem!