Beam Setting
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- When I bought my first CO2 laser more than 8 years ago there were zero help videos on YT, just nerds demonstrating greyscale photo engraving with their K40s. I had to learn about beam setting on my own, aided only by written Chinglish intructions that were worse than useless. I struggled ...lots.
After several months trying to understand why my beam setting did not improve the machine's performance, I realized my tube was JUNK. However, the effort was not wasted bacause A) it hardened my senses and removed the fear of adjusting mirrors. B) It demonstrated that there were serious design issues that got in the way of easy beam setting.
The number of times I have set beams on my own and other peoples machines must be in hundreds. Duringt those 8 years I have stopped many times to reflect on ways to make setting simpler and gradually modified my machines and methods to match my growing knowlwedge of the technology.
Although I have created several beam setting videos over that period , this one includes all the background information as well as a bullet proof way to set your beam perfectly.....and explains what perfection means.
Great video thank you for the info I love your diagrams and artwork helps my simple mind understand what’s really going on.
Thank you for your efforts, Russ. I'm sure you have no idea how much help you provide for how many people with your videos.
I remember many years ago struggling with my first CO2 laser, at a certain moment I just had my man-pants on and started to align the mirrors myself having no help around within reach. And I just couldn't achieve to make the beam hit the center of the lens as I reached the end of the mirror's adjustability. Made a sketch in Corel modelling different beam settings with different coloured lines (dodgy diagram?) aaaand just came to the conclusion the head supposed to be adjustable vertically...
A bit later I've found your channel and you've confirmed my theory right away.
I'm your fan ever since.
Keep up the good work, this community needs you.
Hi Russ, your videos are amazing! Thanks for sharing your time and knowledge with the community!
I am a teacher and my school has a lightblade 3040 and I am wondering if there is any bed/ jig/ modification that you can recommend so that if an object is placed on the honeycomb bed, its top right corner will be exactly on the 0,0 coordinate of the laser? It would make repeating jobs much faster and reliable and would allow you to maximize use of a 400 x300 mm sheet of material.
Hi Steve
I have recently been working with a collegue at his factory because he is new to CO2 lasers and I have had to do the same thing for him to make setups simple. Your machine is different and I am not familiar with the 3040 machine although I have worked on one of the prototype machines several years ago. I think it has a so-called "high speed " bearing system for the X axis. I will need to see a few pictures of your machine so can you contact me with this private contact form.
forms.zohopublic.eu/ndeavorlimited/form/K40XtreeemLaserCutterContactRussSadler/formperma/k2Cn0QN5ChpazfTMAUw25lZ-FKpjZa96TQWHjv3ntOg
Where abouts in UK are you?
I have the 4th corner problem, the same thing that you're explaining towards the end of the video.
However, no matter how often I try, once I work on mirror 1 to adjust the misalignment on mirror 3, the problem from the top right corner gets solved - now comes the but - the problem then moves to the top left corner (and slightly to the bottom left)
I've watched all your videos and have done the same procedure for hours on end with no success. I'm thinking that my gantry might not be square (it's
a very large machine - 1400x900mm) or somethings off with my mirrors, although swapping them to different locations didn't change a thing. If you have any suggestions I would be extremely grateful!
Hi
The bigger the machine the more precise you have to be with your test precision.. My machine is akin to a pool table whilst yours is more like a full size snooker table. Shots on a full size table have to be much more precise. I have helped many people set their machines and I can assure you that logically the squareness of your gantry is NOT an issue when it comes to beam alignment. If it is actually out of square then that is a completely seperate problem to be fixed.. if you like to contact me privately with this contact form, I will reply and maybe we can set up a Skype call so that I can help you.
forms.zohopublic.eu/ndeavorlimited/form/K40XtreeemLaserCutterContactRussSadler/formperma/k2Cn0QN5ChpazfTMAUw25lZ-FKpjZa96TQWHjv3ntOg
Thanks for the swift reply. I am also convinced that it's not the gantry itself, since as you explained in your videos, the mirror moves with it so it doesn't change a thing but at this point I'm willing to try everything to single out the issue.
I'm 100% sure that I'm setting the beam correctly, I've tried it more than 15 times at this point already and I'm getting pretty good at it. I've checked all your videos and different methods explaining the 4th corner problem but nothing seems to solve it, the problem always moves to a different corner. (After the procedure and fixing the top right and bottom right corner alignment, the mirror 1 to 2 alignment gets out of whack by a lot which moves the problem to corner 1 and to corner 2 a little)
I've build and designed 3D printers with CAD Software before (delta config which is the worst one regarding calibration if you're familiar) with no issues at all but this laser I bought is seemingly and anomaly. I've checked to see if the cable chains were twisting the head or mirror 2 at the corners enough to cause this issue but they weren't after I loosend them up (you mentioned that before on one of your videos)
I also checked to see if the belt/pulleys are misaligned and surprisingly they were on the Y-Axis, top left corner even which could twist the mirror enough for a misalignemt on the top right corner (which wouldn't be noticeable on the top left corner). I then tried the procedure again with no belts (I moved the gantry by hand) and that still didn't fix the issue so it wasn't the belts.
Theres not a lot of things left to try but I will do some more testing this weekend. If I can't find a fix I will definetly try to contact you and maybe we can set something up cause I need all the brain power I can get my hands on.
@@elionarifi7077
Hi
I admire your perseverence and tenacity. However, If there is a vital step you are failing to understand the importance of, then repetition (which you now seem to expert at) will not solve the issue. One of the key points to concentrate on first, is the Y axis alignment before you start the X axis alignment procedure . Mirror 2 is a piviotal factor , so you need to get that as close to perfect alignment as possible (although not necessarily in the centre of the miirror). However, this method I demonstarte is far removed for the conventional method because this miirror 2 setting does not appear to be part of the setting procedure. When you try again, add an additional check into the procedure
Adjust mirror 1 to get the back and fornt burns on the Y axis to coincide. Now move the head to the back and closest to the tube. Put tape on the head and do a burn. It does not matter if it's not central. Now move the head to the front. Simple logic dictates that if your Y axis has been set true than moving the head to the front , MUST produce a coincidental burn on the head. If this step fails then you have a mechanical issue to solve.
Good luck
I think this is it, your additional check just confirmed that the beams do not coincide on mirror 3 with the head to the left and that there is a mechanical issue.
I just adjusted mirror 1 to produce a perfect near and far burn on mirror 2 as I always do. But I skipped the adjustment for mirror 2 and just put a beam on the top left corner as you said, marked it's position, moved the head back down to the bottom left corner and the new beam at the bottom left corner is slightly offset downwards by around 2 mm than the one at the top (which checks out with my far burn that also goes down)
Now the questions is, how do I fix it? I think I will try shimming the left Y axis rail at the bottom and see if that changes anything. Otherwise I'm out of ideas on what could be the issue. Thanks a ton anyways for getting me to figure that one out! I will make an update if I manage to fix it, hopefully the next one that has this issue will be able to solve it that way.
@@elionarifi7077
Hi
Shimming the rails is an absolute NO NO!!! It will get you nowhere . If. for example, your Y rail has a hump in the middle, then you have not detected this with your test at the ends of the rail. You have set Y perfection at just two points therefor if mmirror 2 is completely stable then you should get perfect coincidence with the extra test I described. at those same two points. The fact that you dont means you must
A) Look closer at the stability of mirror 2 because that is what you are reflecting off to create the head burn. If the angle of that miiror face is changing between the two front and back positions then that could be a poosible cause. However, I think this is a long shot
b) Because you have a long Y axis, my money is still on small imperefections in your setting onto mirror 2 . Repeat your beam setting now in the front position, but this time try to get the head burns coincident by minute adjustments to mirror 1 at this front position.
Russ is the man of laser, his knowledge on lasers is undeniable.
Russ, do you have your head bracket available? Maybe some drawings so I can get one fabricated?
Thanks
Ray
Hi Ray
Yes, any drawing I have .However You will have to contact me privately with this contact form
forms.zohopublic.eu/ndeavorlimited/form/K40XtreeemLaserCutterContactRussSadler/formperma/k2Cn0QN5ChpazfTMAUw25lZ-FKpjZa96TQWHjv3ntOg
I will send whatever you need . I have several different head "brackets" to suit different machine styles. but I think you may be after the lightweight head?
Best wishes Russ
Just bought a home build unit and new to lasers.Thanks for the time you invest in making content for setting up and explaining the principles
Great tutorial, I'm just about to align my machine for the first time and have found your tutorials very helpful. Thanks for posting.
I love you. Your work is amazing
Rus, I finally fired up my CR7050 55 this week after owning it for four months now. Something about finishing a house takes precedents over playing with a laser. Can you believe that? I have watched all your videos over the years and have learned a lot from you. But now that I have a machine to monkey with I have some specific questions that are best asked in a different venue. If there is one, what might that venue be?
Hi Kris
You can contact me privately via this form
forms.zohopublic.eu/ndeavorlimited/form/K40XtreeemLaserCutterContactRussSadler/formperma/k2Cn0QN5ChpazfTMAUw25lZ-FKpjZa96TQWHjv3ntOg
does any brand of co2 laser have get into this problem? I mean does any maschien exisist, where you can align your laserbeam like you showed whithout selfe made construction?
hi
The simple answers are yess. all brands have this beam alignment issue but there are a few machines that have now tried to deal with this setting issue by making the head mounting bracket crudely adjustable in Z but the emphasis here is on crude.. However, one company did recognize the merit in all my modifications and the blue machine you see me using is a prototype machine that Cloudray designed , that is a copy of my original modified 300x500 machine.. My original machine did not have a programmable Z axis but this Cloudray version has a super smooth table mechanism. see this product
www.cloudraylaser.com/collections/laser-cutting-machine/products/flash-sale-cloudray-cr-series-russ-oem-70w-co2-engraver-cutting-machine-with-working-area-20x12
This is exactly the machine you see me using.
;
I know the reason most laser beds don't have the extra adjustments is 'they're cheap', but there's still no excuse. I would like to add a bit of terminology to your explanation. To get (more than) a little technical, both types of adjustments can be called mechanical. The difference is the first adjustment using the stock adjustment screws is _rotation._ Your mods allow you to move the mirrors in _translation._ In math, translation is defined as "movement of a body from one point of space to another such that every point of the body moves in the same direction and over the same distance, without any rotation, reflection, or change in size." So your 'head' mirror (#3) could be said to have been 'translated' along the Z axis.
Thanks for this lighthearted comment. 10 /10. I appreciate the beauty and exactness of this word in it's mathmatical (and engineering) sense but I feel that "twiddling knobs " and "mechanical adjustment" have a more illustrative meaning to most people watching the video. After all you were able to "translate" my words in the alternative meaning. Even as a native speaker, I often find the English language littered with confusion ie flammable and inflammable. ...... Big smile.
Hi russ as always its been a great learning and enlightening session as always
Can you please guide where can get files for your head assembly
Just as shown in the video my third mirror can only have z movement for y movement i'll have to make changes to mirror no 2 mount just the way did with your machine
So can you please share links to the file
Also if you could make a revisit video to the latest head assembly and its installation the that would be great
Hi Amit
You may wish to watch this video
ruclips.net/video/6aNwKhTRnd8/видео.html
You can contact me privately with this contact form and we can then discuss the best way forward for your machine by email.
forms.zohopublic.eu/ndeavorlimited/form/K40XtreeemLaserCutterContactRussSadler/formperma/k2Cn0QN5ChpazfTMAUw25lZ-FKpjZa96TQWHjv3ntOg
Best wishwes Russ
Rus. Do you have a link or video with all your contraptions and targets on?
Hi
I think I sent them to the rdworkslaser.com website but it will be easier to contact me with this form and I will send you a data pack with everyhing.
forms.zohopublic.eu/ndeavorlimited/form/K40XtreeemLaserCutterContactRussSadler/formperma/k2Cn0QN5ChpazfTMAUw25lZ-FKpjZa96TQWHjv3ntOg
These things are made like model a fords.
My head hurts. Can't believe i watched the whole thing and i don't own a laser
11/10 for persistance. If you ever decide to but one they are great addition to your workshop and many people make lots of cash with them. I retired from manufacturing and had no intention of staring up another business, for me it's just a great way to keep my 2 remaining grey cells exercised. Additionally it's great way to keep ducking my wife's very long "to do" list.
@SarbarMultimedia retired myself. I got "its that big" "where you putting it" from wife.
I can´t say how much I apreciate your help with these viseos you post here! Everything I learned on this laser business came from your instructions! Thank you very much! All the best!
I am a self taught independent laser engineer and it’s now my full time job. I used to do it the old way and drove myself crazy when I was learning. I pretty much do it your way too.
Extremely valuable information and clear explanation
Thanks Rus
Good info.
As you said.. the fear and lack of understanding is what hilds people back.
To often i see recomended to "level the bed". I dont know where this myth started from.
The bed needs to match your x and Y axis. Otherwise the gap to the material wont be consistant.
Level the machine.. sure. Though not necissary. You could hang the machine upside diwn or mount to a wall and still print.
Leveling the ( machine) just helps the frame not be twisted or under stress.
You could see previous owner of my machine had a hard time with it. I had a hard time until i was able to dial it in.
Your previous video a year ago was the final bit i needed to get it. I have not had to realign for the past year.
Not going to lie at the 30 min mark I definitely cringed. I spent days getting my large bed size dialed in. I was a unlucky one with everything wrong to mirrors offset to gantry high on 1 corner. Your videos helped tremendously in keeping it in perspective of it can be simple. My biggest problem was trying to get it aligned with mirror 2 not parallel to 1 and mirror 2 not in line with the head. Then to make it worse was mirror 2 would get high at it moved close to mirror 1 since they had the gantry high in that corner. All in all started from square 1 and now runs like a dream. I did all this with the addition of a new A grade tube so it is the way it "should" have been delivered. I don't mind though as it was way way cheaper than the better ones
Hi Russ I have had no problems with miy laser since we made the tube holders and the laser brackets that must be 3 to 4 years sinse we fitted them thanks bob
Can you come round mine....absolutely great information. .
Great video as always, thanks Russ
Great video and information as usual. In your opinion, what is the largest bed size or maximum beam distance for a stationary mounted tube. Just curious maximum bed size before beam expansion would make it hard to use the entire area without much noticeable cut difference. Presuming you have a good beam to start with. Thanks.
I think that 7050 is about as big as you sensibly need for most applications, I favour my 6040. However there are situations wher big is necessary just look at this video from 33:45 and you will see what I mean. This is a 2500x4500 bed. Note the way of reducing the divergence issue ....carry the tube on the gantry. That way you have virtually no setup issues. BUT at 2500mm wide and with a 160 watt 6mm beam, there is still significant beam growth. Remember what I said about the beam overhanging the edges of mirror 3, well that happens here when the head exceeds the half way point. The head itself and the lens tube heat up. aftter 10 minutes of continuous cutting at full power..Its not destructive but an issue I have yet to solve.
If you havn't watched them alreadt there are two videos that investigate the beam intensity profile , beam expansion and how it affects cutting.for different focal distance lenses. I was surprised at what I found.
see ruclips.net/video/7N8Th1-IF4s/видео.html and ruclips.net/video/v7-VArJbJTs/видео.html
@@SarbarMultimedia Fantastic information. Thank you for your time.
Another technique on a standard 3rd mirror setup is to screw all the adjustment screws at the same time in one direction which moves the mirror up or down in a diagonal direction. Gives a few mm of adjustment.
Hi Reuben.
You are correct in that it effectively moves the mirror in the Z axis. However, and in the absence of an adjustable head, this was what I tried in my early years. Sadly, this causes adjustment of two settings at once. and mixes axial beam alignment with finding the sweet spot. That is why I seperated the functions with a head that adjusts puerly in the Z axis. When you get your new machine, it will almost certainly have zero air gap between mirror 3 and the head. That gives you a clue as to how "well" the Chinese set the Z axis. The zero airgap position generally aligns the mirror with the hole in the head.which is why the standard method is to aim the beam at the centre of that hole. If you add an air gap so you can adjust the beam alignment, then the centrre of the hole is no longer a valid aiming point. You will note the fixed positiom of one corner of my #3 mirror so that you cannot reposition it, you can only tilt it slightly. The mirror position is designed to perfecty align with the lens tube axis. You will note that I never try to set the beam onto mirror #3, instead I concentrate aligning the beam onto the lens tube axis. If I get the Z axis aligned then I have automatically set the beam onto the centre of mirror 3. These are nerdy design elements that are uneccessary complications for this video.
@@SarbarMultimedia yeah I totally get what you've done. I actually added some machined shims under my 3rd mirror to move it 90% of the way up then used the screws to fine adjust. I would have been stuck if I needed to move it down though which is where yours definitely is a plus feature.