I used the method of using the aquarium heater in my chiller. This did not work out for me as it melted the filler neck where it meets the top of the tank. If you are going to use this method I would use the 50W and make sure you over fill your chiller. I used the 100W and did over fill my chiller however my thought is that over the winter it lost water probably from being heated and eventually melted the neck. I didn't even look at it until I went to refresh my water now that the weather is warming up here in Washington. I'm not saying do not use this method I'm just letting everyone know my experience. I'm using epoxy to re-attach the neck to the body. I'm working with Ray from rmlaser on possibly getting a replacement top.
Oh goodness so sorry to hear that Steve, thank you for sharing this. I wonder if it had to work a lot harder in Washington State causing quicker evaporation as opposed to me down in GA. I have 2 100w heaters one in my cw5000 and one in my cw3000 chiller and didn’t run into this issue.
@@ChadsCustomCreations I was able to epoxy the neck back on and I'm up and running again without having to purchase a new chiller so it all worked out. I just thought I'd let people know to watch out for this.
@@stevewoodrich5130 I’ve pinned your comment to the top to help spread the word. I am glad to hear you were able to fix it and I do appreciate you sharing this. It’s something I didn’t really consider and thinking about it now it could also be an actual fire hazard 😳
I think you just saved me a massive headache! I hadn't thought about an inline pump to pull water from my chiller. I'm so glad you decided to make the video. You my new friend, are an absolute LEGEND.
Thanks for the idea. I took this a bit farther and used an inline heater and a small 12vdc hot water circ pump. It made me uneasy placing a glass heater inside the chiller. The end result is I'm maintaining 17 - 20 C and no worries so far.
So does this method keep the water in chiller warm as well ? Im from Canada Ontario, gets really COLD -20C / -4F I think thats the conversion lol. I'm planning on buying a Omtech soon but my only concern was how to keep the water from freezing and the Tube warm. As well do you just do anything else or just turn on the machine and start printing ?
Yes so that's the idea it warms the water in the chiller and the little pump keeps it circulating even when the mail chiller is turned off and not flowing at full speed. Since you are in a very cold area I would recommend the 150w heater and yeah I would say don't run the laser if it is below 15c as the quick heat change can cause the glass to break.
Great idea! In my area (central Florida) we get frost maybe once or twice a year.. Hard freeze every few years.. This seems like a good way to take care of those rare occasions.
I've created a two-part 3D printed cap to make it a little neater and ensure the heater is below the water level (vs overfilling the tank). My chiller is a CW-5200 so unsure if the dimensions match the CW-5000/CW-3000. I'll post it to Thingiverse tonight and update this comment with a link. I did not add the extra pump - the CW-5200 has an alarm if the temp is outside parameters - I _think_ that should be sufficient?
Holy cow Thunder Laser I've heard great things about your laser machines. So far so good some nights I have to up the temp on the heater a little to get me to 59 degrees, if only I could figure out how to get the heater to get its reading from the tube instead of the chiller.
@@ChadsCustomCreations Add a PID temperature controller. You then turn the heater up to somewhere higher than it needs to be (could be 100%, but you can keep it safe, and put it at a somewhat safe level that's still higher than you need to get where you want to be). Then the little controller has a thermocouple input from wherever you want to attach it, and it will switch the aquarium heater on and off. You can buy pretty cheap little controllers that do a really good job.
You could probably attach a pipe coupling to the inlet of your chiller and get the heater fully below your cap. would just look slightly more polished.
What are you somekind of mechinal engineer that makes caps valves and pipe fitting for a living. Jk brother yes that would look nice can you make one for me that will also allow for the power cable to slip through.
@@ChadsCustomCreations you could maybe drill a hole in your original cap and use a cable gland, that might require cutting and reattaching the electrical cord though.
Got my new laser last week and rushing to find a good solution - my laser sits in an unheated garage so I need a warning solution yesterday I’m off to Amazon to buy and Thingiverse to print the cap Much appreciated video and advice
I was wondering if something like this would work. Thanks for confirming - just ordered the heater. I've been using an electric blanket which works ok though I do have to turn it back on every 10 hours or so as that is the max the timer will go.
Still using this method, now on 2 separate co2 lasers. Bring out it in the winter and put the heaters away once it warms up in the spring. I did make a youtube short showing me putting it on my newest co2 laser if you want to check that out.
@@ChadsCustomCreations Thanks, and which heater did you get ? Canada winters get cold in the garage wondering which you recommend for -20C or -5F possibly colder on some days ?
I know the video was 3 years ago, but maybe that's why it's a good long-term comparison. I'm facing the same problem and have installed an inline water heater, except that the chiller always has to be running. Now my question: Does the (warm) water also circulate through the chiller or does it build up somewhere? E.g. in the pump of the chiller? Thanks in advance!
Yes that’s I had hoped it would flow with just the hot water but alas it was getting stuck somewhere probably at the water flow sensor in the laser. I fixed this by adding a small water pump that could run 24/7 like I showed in the video.
Haha yes I cut him out a few years ago I pull him out every Christmas and tell myself I am going to finally paint him and set him up. 2020 wasn't his year.
Thank you so much man, really saved me! Do you have an estimated idea on how much electricity it will cost you monthly to run the pump and the heater 24/7?
Glad to help. No idea on cost of electricity; it does turn off automatically when the heater gets to temp so the cost will really depend on how much cold it is fighting.
Good video, but this can be solved in a way more elegant manner IMHO. The actual water pump inside the S&A CW-5000 is a 24V 50W model (in the CW-3000 30W and the CW-5200 100W) that is perfect for the job of pushing the water though the whole system (and a flow meter is also already inside the machine). Adding additional components like the external pump and the external flow meter is redundant and impacts the flow of the entire system. The aquarium heater is a good idea but for the rest I'd rather recommend hooking up the S&A and the heater to a thermostat controller/temperature controlled outlet and you're done. Much simpler and no need for new components impeding the flow of the water.
@@ChadsCustomCreations true. I do like the idea of not running an extra pump all the time though. My shop is on my dads property 30 minutes away from me, and it’s an acre away from his house. I wonder which option is more reliable. Just worried a small pump like that may give out after awhile of running 24/7.
Hi I have the 3000 chiller. And the winter blew my chiller pump and cracked my tube. I've replaced the pump now the expensive part the tube. Can I ask how you install the inline pump. Is it on the in or out side of the chiller water tubes? I take it the chiller pump doesn't cause a bottleneck being turned off? I thought it would cause a pressure build up and leak without being turned on. Thanks
I have it on the output side but I don’t think it would matter just make sure you get the flow in the right direction. I don’t notice a bottle neck the bump is so weak when the main chiller comes on it blows right through it.
I don’t understand how the water flow is not impeded by the chiller pump when the chiller is off and the external pump is doing the piping? Is it because the internal pump is an impeller pump and spins freely?
I’m thinking about doing this for my omtech 80w. Did it work well for you over the winter? On the aquarium heaters, which wattage did you go with? The link shows a few options.
Thanks for the video. Ive been watching, reading, comparing Lasers for the last 3 weeks or more. My wife has said it isnt coming in the house : ) so the garage it is. However the models that I am looking at suggest (and I can only afford) the 5 gallon bucket cooling method. If I use this method (aquarium heater) in the bucket would it still work? Im looking at the Omtech 60W and it comes with a water pump and hoses so my assumption would be yes....? Id rather replace a small water pump once a year from running it during the winter months then having a tube go pop.
Oh yes the setup that comes with these cheaper models definitely works with the heater. Without the CW5000 chiller if you are in a hot place like me Georgia in the USA it gets hot in the summer and you need to keep the water temp below 70 degrees I believe which with the bucket can be accomplished with throwing ice packs into the 5 gallon bucket. I would also suggest getting an aquarium temp gauge also if you plan in using the bucket. I used it for a while but was running so many productions the $600 for the cw5000 chiller made sense for me.
@@ChadsCustomCreations Thanks for the quick reply. In Va all my life and weather can be eclectic. Maybe down the road if it turns into a side job I can then splurge for the Chiller. I have quite a few refreezable icepacks I can place them in freezer ziplocks if needed. Thanks again!
Is the opening of your chiller just under 1 inch? I have the CW-3000 and I can't find a heater anywhere that can fully fit through the opening and be completely submerged.
I'll have to check when I get back to the shop. Yes I imagine the 3000 might be a little smaller. I know that the heater recommends keeping it submerged but it may not be completely crucial. My only concern would be the glass on the heater cracking.
I feel pretty overwhelmed and a little silly. I've been doing a ton of research on Co2 lasers and I finally decided to pull the trigger. It will be in my shop which is detached from the house and it sometimes gets between 0-5 Fahrenheit in the winter. How would I be able to keep the water at an operable level. is there also a minimum temp that machine can run at?
Phew that is cold. I would say probably do a mixture of distilled and RV antifreeze and also do the aquarium heater. Co2 lasers have optimal power between 15-25C I believe there is a fear of running the tube when it is too cold as thermal shock can cause the glass to crack also.
I am leaving it that I did think about that being an issue but visual with that little blue flapper it's still flowing so fast that I can't even tell a difference.
My aquarium heater shattered inside of my chiller. I’m assuming it’s because I turned it on and then put it in and the temp difference was too large. I’m thinking about getting a titanium one. Would you suggest getting a 50W still even living here in Montana?
Oh crap so sorry to hear that. Yes they seem very fragile I think you need to b keel them in the water when turning them on. You may need to make sure to get the pieces out or filter it out as those shards may hurt the pump. A metal heater is a good idea I may suggest going to a 100w for Montana just check out the dimensions and make sure it fits first.
Ok thanks, that’s what I was thinking as well. I pumped all of the water out and emptied out the glass but a small piece is still clanging around. Because of the ridges inside of the chiller, it will not come out after a very long time of trying. I’m thinking I should pop the top off of the container to get it out. It’s sealed pretty good with silicon it looks like though.
What size and type of flow tubing is being used? I only have what came with the laser which is super short and I haven’t been able to find extra locally.
JUNZHIDA Silicone Tubing 8mm ID X 11mm OD Silicone Rubber Tube Food Grade for Pump Transfer, Homebrew Tube 16.4ft www.amazon.com/dp/B07V5PKYMK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_RTDWAWRYJ8AH9JJ92Y4W?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Just had a laser tube shatter on me, thing it might’ve already had a flaw but I’m not taking any chances with the Winter. So I’m going to try your method. I live in Montana so it gets cooooooooold. Thanks!
Would it help to also to put antifreeze into the mix along with the method you showed? I originally did use antifreeze in my cooling mixture and it seemed to work well.
@@23wahoo23 I think as a fail safe it couldn't hurt. But when using the laser try to make sure you get it above 15c to reduce chances of thermal shock cracking it aswell.
Did you put the little pump going into the chiller or out of the chiller? I just installed mine, but it's not pulling water from the chiller. Also, Do I need to put the blue wheel before or after the pump? Thanks
I put little pump before input on chiller to pull water from tube. Little blue wheel on after output of chiller. Make sure little pump has water in the line or it won't be able to pump.
@@ChadsCustomCreations ok, great, thanks! So the pump pulls water from the tube into the chiller, and when the chiller is off, it should keep circulating the water? Thanks
So I just looked and I realize that the seller of the original pump has changed the item to a submersible pump which will not work in the application like I showed here. I am looking online now and will be updating that link now.
My 100 watt tube cracked last night as the ambient temp went down to -9°C. :( Planning to add antifreeze with water with the new tube.. Can we do without heating the water? And still use the lazer without causing any damage to the tube in sub zero temps?
My understanding is it needs to be atleast 15 Celsius before using laser as it can cause it to crack from too quick of a temp change. This is why I am skipping the antifreeze and using the heater instead.
Haha yes they are holycrap you actually watched this video through. You are a true fan to sit through a 10 min video about ne putting a heater into a chiller. ❤
@@DrPorkchops you're in for a treat next I'll be wiring in an air solenoid to the ruida controller to give the laser the ability to run at a higher PSI. 🤓
@@ChadsCustomCreations I used the links you provided to order and just noticed I ordered the 50W. I canceled it and I'm trying to find the 100W. I'm getting the rm1390 do you think the 100W is big enough for it? I don't see in your video where you used this "Zacro LCD Digital Aquarium Thermometer Fish Tank Water Terrarium Temperature" however it was in your parts links.
My thought was to capture moisture but I don’t believe those pumps actually create condensation. I have since switched to a California air compressor and that definitely needs a water separation especially in the summer here in Georgia with our high humidity.
@@ferdieedquiban9047 I can't say for sure but they do sell higher wattage heaters I bet going with the higher ones would give you a better chance. You can also combine it with using RV antifreeze aswell.
It’s not just about keeping it from cracking for me it’s also about maintaining the optimal temperature for the Co2 laser to achieve the maximum power output of my laser it must be maintained within 15-25c. Having it ready to go whenever I need it is worth the $20 in parts.
I put antifreeze on my laser. Since my laser is 170 watts, I can cut even with forty percent power. But it sounds like a whistling sound. Is it normal when the light is turned off? This sound is very low
@@aigle2328 nice 170w I bet that thing can cut great. You ever try cutting the 3/4” red oak plywood from the big box stores? I used to be able to cut at 3/mms but they seemed to have changed the glue or something and now my results are too inconsistent.
I usually use poplar or mdf. Before the co2 laser, I had a 5w diode laser 😁😁😁I made a lot of cuts with it, but I recognized the trees. The tree you cut should be soft and the more multi-layered plywood you buy, the easier it will be to cut. I used to cut 3mm and 5mm poplar at the same time with a diode laser. Because 5 mm was 5 layers.
these tubes cannot work in 0 deg. Celcius. I just checked the technical datasheets of some manufacturers and they all say working temprratures are 0-50 deg. Celcius
Can I see your source for that information. I am thinking this would probably be specs for none glass tube lasers as 0 degrees Celsius = ice which = expansion
One more thing you could try this for hose clamps. ruclips.net/video/07oVoABYr10/видео.html I have yet to try it yet but I've been saving it for future projects.
So sorry to hear this happened. The cold nights sneak in sometimes without warning. I still use this method but adding RV antifreeze might be a good failsafe also.
Putting the heater in is a good idea as long as you keep it circulating and know you won't lose electricity or it will be FREEZZZZZZZ Up time. Best choice is to keep it were you know the tube will stay warm. Just saying.
Yeah loosing electricity would be awful I would have to drain the system in that case. I am scares to think how many laser tubes shattered in Texas recently.
@@ChadsCustomCreations For sure. My thought is a cheap wood stove, so if the electricity goes out run out and fire up the old woody. Back up plans are good.
![Eminem - Fuel (feat. JID) [Official Lyric Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/t5H_CewqpKA/mqdefault.jpg)
I used the method of using the aquarium heater in my chiller. This did not work out for me as it melted the filler neck where it meets the top of the tank. If you are going to use this method I would use the 50W and make sure you over fill your chiller. I used the 100W and did over fill my chiller however my thought is that over the winter it lost water probably from being heated and eventually melted the neck. I didn't even look at it until I went to refresh my water now that the weather is warming up here in Washington. I'm not saying do not use this method I'm just letting everyone know my experience. I'm using epoxy to re-attach the neck to the body. I'm working with Ray from rmlaser on possibly getting a replacement top.
Oh goodness so sorry to hear that Steve, thank you for sharing this. I wonder if it had to work a lot harder in Washington State causing quicker evaporation as opposed to me down in GA. I have 2 100w heaters one in my cw5000 and one in my cw3000 chiller and didn’t run into this issue.
@@ChadsCustomCreations I was able to epoxy the neck back on and I'm up and running again without having to purchase a new chiller so it all worked out. I just thought I'd let people know to watch out for this.
@@stevewoodrich5130 I’ve pinned your comment to the top to help spread the word. I am glad to hear you were able to fix it and I do appreciate you sharing this. It’s something I didn’t really consider and thinking about it now it could also be an actual fire hazard 😳
I was thinking maybe I had it turned up to high and that caused this problem.@@stevewoodrich5130
I think you just saved me a massive headache! I hadn't thought about an inline pump to pull water from my chiller. I'm so glad you decided to make the video. You my new friend, are an absolute LEGEND.
So glad to hear it my friend!
Thanks for the idea. I took this a bit farther and used an inline heater and a small 12vdc hot water circ pump. It made me uneasy placing a glass heater inside the chiller. The end result is I'm maintaining 17 - 20 C and no worries so far.
Oh this is what I originally wanted to do but couldn't find the right stuff, do you mind sharing your links here.
So does this method keep the water in chiller warm as well ? Im from Canada Ontario, gets really COLD -20C / -4F I think thats the conversion lol.
I'm planning on buying a Omtech soon but my only concern was how to keep the water from freezing and the Tube warm.
As well do you just do anything else or just turn on the machine and start printing ?
Yes so that's the idea it warms the water in the chiller and the little pump keeps it circulating even when the mail chiller is turned off and not flowing at full speed.
Since you are in a very cold area I would recommend the 150w heater and yeah I would say don't run the laser if it is below 15c as the quick heat change can cause the glass to break.
Great idea! In my area (central Florida) we get frost maybe once or twice a year.. Hard freeze every few years.. This seems like a good way to take care of those rare occasions.
It’s definitely different than what most do but I feel like it might be worth it to keep it at that optimal operating temperature
thanks for the video. While it doesn't get below freezing that often where I live, it does dip into the low 30's. I will be doing this mod for sure
I laughed harder than I should have when zipties came across the screen. Lol twisty ties. Nice dust cap!
I said freaking twisty ties like 3 times I couldn't believe it.
I've created a two-part 3D printed cap to make it a little neater and ensure the heater is below the water level (vs overfilling the tank). My chiller is a CW-5200 so unsure if the dimensions match the CW-5000/CW-3000. I'll post it to Thingiverse tonight and update this comment with a link. I did not add the extra pump - the CW-5200 has an alarm if the temp is outside parameters - I _think_ that should be sufficient?
Oh that's awesome I will add that to the description once you get it to me.
Hey could you make a cap for me ?
Do you make these and sell them. I'd be interested.
Did you ever post the cap to thingiverse? I’d love to have the link if so!
And thank you @Chads Custom Creations! this helped a lot!
nice. you will have to keep us updated on how this system performs and evolves.
Holy cow Thunder Laser I've heard great things about your laser machines. So far so good some nights I have to up the temp on the heater a little to get me to 59 degrees, if only I could figure out how to get the heater to get its reading from the tube instead of the chiller.
@@ChadsCustomCreations Add a PID temperature controller. You then turn the heater up to somewhere higher than it needs to be (could be 100%, but you can keep it safe, and put it at a somewhat safe level that's still higher than you need to get where you want to be). Then the little controller has a thermocouple input from wherever you want to attach it, and it will switch the aquarium heater on and off. You can buy pretty cheap little controllers that do a really good job.
You could probably attach a pipe coupling to the inlet of your chiller and get the heater fully below your cap. would just look slightly more polished.
What are you somekind of mechinal engineer that makes caps valves and pipe fitting for a living. Jk brother yes that would look nice can you make one for me that will also allow for the power cable to slip through.
@@ChadsCustomCreations you could maybe drill a hole in your original cap and use a cable gland, that might require cutting and reattaching the electrical cord though.
@@mechhead32 cable gland is the word I needed to hear thank you.
Got my new laser last week and rushing to find a good solution - my laser sits in an unheated garage so I need a warning solution yesterday
I’m off to Amazon to buy and Thingiverse to print the cap
Much appreciated video and advice
So glad to hear that, I was sad I couldn't get this video out sooner, it's great to hear it helped before tragedy hit you.
I was wondering if something like this would work. Thanks for confirming - just ordered the heater. I've been using an electric blanket which works ok though I do have to turn it back on every 10 hours or so as that is the max the timer will go.
Great I am excited to hear how it all works out for you.
Great idea thanks
Have you updated your setup if you have can have a look. thanks great ideas !!
Still using this method, now on 2 separate co2 lasers. Bring out it in the winter and put the heaters away once it warms up in the spring. I did make a youtube short showing me putting it on my newest co2 laser if you want to check that out.
@@ChadsCustomCreations Thanks, and which heater did you get ? Canada winters get cold in the garage wondering which you recommend for -20C or -5F possibly colder on some days ?
This will be the first winter for my laser. I use antifreeze and the room temperature doesn't go below 16C in winter.
Nice if that’s the case you don’t even need the anti freeze.
Thanks for the great video and ideas. How has this been working for you? its getting close to that time of year and i need to do something.
It's still holding up into the second winter. It wouldn't hurt to run two of those little pumps inline as a fail safe though also.
I know the video was 3 years ago, but maybe that's why it's a good long-term comparison. I'm facing the same problem and have installed an inline water heater, except that the chiller always has to be running. Now my question: Does the (warm) water also circulate through the chiller or does it build up somewhere? E.g. in the pump of the chiller? Thanks in advance!
Yes that’s I had hoped it would flow with just the hot water but alas it was getting stuck somewhere probably at the water flow sensor in the laser. I fixed this by adding a small water pump that could run 24/7 like I showed in the video.
@@ChadsCustomCreations Thanks for your answer! i try it with the pump too!
Nothing boring when a laser is involved!
Haha I knew there would be a few of us that might find this interesting 😄
Wait! Did you just high five the grinch? 😂
Haha yes I cut him out a few years ago I pull him out every Christmas and tell myself I am going to finally paint him and set him up. 2020 wasn't his year.
Great ideas. Thank you.
Thank you, I hope it helps.
Thank you so much man, really saved me! Do you have an estimated idea on how much electricity it will cost you monthly to run the pump and the heater 24/7?
Glad to help. No idea on cost of electricity; it does turn off automatically when the heater gets to temp so the cost will really depend on how much cold it is fighting.
Good video, but this can be solved in a way more elegant manner IMHO.
The actual water pump inside the S&A CW-5000 is a 24V 50W model (in the CW-3000 30W and the CW-5200 100W) that is perfect for the job of pushing the water though the whole system (and a flow meter is also already inside the machine).
Adding additional components like the external pump and the external flow meter is redundant and impacts the flow of the entire system.
The aquarium heater is a good idea but for the rest I'd rather recommend hooking up the S&A and the heater to a thermostat controller/temperature controlled outlet and you're done. Much simpler and no need for new components impeding the flow of the water.
Those are some really great points.
I’d like to see a link for a good temperature controller lol please
The aquarium heaters do have built in temp controls aswell.
@@ChadsCustomCreations true. I do like the idea of not running an extra pump all the time though. My shop is on my dads property 30 minutes away from me, and it’s an acre away from his house. I wonder which option is more reliable. Just worried a small pump like that may give out after awhile of running 24/7.
That is a valid concern you could always put two small pumps and run then both if one fail the other would keep the flow until you discover any issues
Hi I have the 3000 chiller. And the winter blew my chiller pump and cracked my tube. I've replaced the pump now the expensive part the tube. Can I ask how you install the inline pump. Is it on the in or out side of the chiller water tubes? I take it the chiller pump doesn't cause a bottleneck being turned off? I thought it would cause a pressure build up and leak without being turned on. Thanks
I have it on the output side but I don’t think it would matter just make sure you get the flow in the right direction. I don’t notice a bottle neck the bump is so weak when the main chiller comes on it blows right through it.
I don’t understand how the water flow is not impeded by the chiller pump when the chiller is off and the external pump is doing the piping? Is it because the internal pump is an impeller pump and spins freely?
Yes I was skeptical of this aswell and took a gamble and it paid off. It works on my cw-5000 don't know of the other models
have you found a solution for the lid on the chiller ? or stilusing the same method
I think I went up to the 100w and it actually fits it perfectly
I’m thinking about doing this for my omtech 80w.
Did it work well for you over the winter?
On the aquarium heaters, which wattage did you go with? The link shows a few options.
I got the 50w but some nights in GA it struggled to get above 15c so I would say go with the 100w
Thanks for the video. Ive been watching, reading, comparing Lasers for the last 3 weeks or more. My wife has said it isnt coming in the house : ) so the garage it is. However the models that I am looking at suggest (and I can only afford) the 5 gallon bucket cooling method.
If I use this method (aquarium heater) in the bucket would it still work? Im looking at the Omtech 60W and it comes with a water pump and hoses so my assumption would be yes....? Id rather replace a small water pump once a year from running it during the winter months then having a tube go pop.
Oh yes the setup that comes with these cheaper models definitely works with the heater. Without the CW5000 chiller if you are in a hot place like me Georgia in the USA it gets hot in the summer and you need to keep the water temp below 70 degrees I believe which with the bucket can be accomplished with throwing ice packs into the 5 gallon bucket. I would also suggest getting an aquarium temp gauge also if you plan in using the bucket. I used it for a while but was running so many productions the $600 for the cw5000 chiller made sense for me.
@@ChadsCustomCreations Thanks for the quick reply. In Va all my life and weather can be eclectic. Maybe down the road if it turns into a side job I can then splurge for the Chiller. I have quite a few refreezable icepacks I can place them in freezer ziplocks if needed. Thanks again!
@@jamesfacciolli8061 perfect if you have any questions that I can help with always reach out.
Is the opening of your chiller just under 1 inch?
I have the CW-3000 and I can't find a heater anywhere that can fully fit through the opening and be completely submerged.
I'll have to check when I get back to the shop. Yes I imagine the 3000 might be a little smaller. I know that the heater recommends keeping it submerged but it may not be completely crucial. My only concern would be the glass on the heater cracking.
Hey I was just able to check the opening is just over 1 inch probably 1-1/8inch
I feel pretty overwhelmed and a little silly. I've been doing a ton of research on Co2 lasers and I finally decided to pull the trigger. It will be in my shop which is detached from the house and it sometimes gets between 0-5 Fahrenheit in the winter. How would I be able to keep the water at an operable level. is there also a minimum temp that machine can run at?
Phew that is cold. I would say probably do a mixture of distilled and RV antifreeze and also do the aquarium heater. Co2 lasers have optimal power between 15-25C I believe there is a fear of running the tube when it is too cold as thermal shock can cause the glass to crack also.
@@ChadsCustomCreations thanks for the response. Maybe I’ll put it in the kids room and let them sleep in the shed 😜
Do you leave your chiller running 24/7?
No in the video you will see a small inline pump that I add. I leave that on 24/7
So are you leaving the pump attached when you run your laser? It doesnt slow the flow of water from the actual water pump?
I am leaving it that I did think about that being an issue but visual with that little blue flapper it's still flowing so fast that I can't even tell a difference.
My aquarium heater shattered inside of my chiller. I’m assuming it’s because I turned it on and then put it in and the temp difference was too large. I’m thinking about getting a titanium one. Would you suggest getting a 50W still even living here in Montana?
Oh crap so sorry to hear that. Yes they seem very fragile I think you need to b keel them in the water when turning them on. You may need to make sure to get the pieces out or filter it out as those shards may hurt the pump. A metal heater is a good idea I may suggest going to a 100w for Montana just check out the dimensions and make sure it fits first.
Ok thanks, that’s what I was thinking as well. I pumped all of the water out and emptied out the glass but a small piece is still clanging around. Because of the ridges inside of the chiller, it will not come out after a very long time of trying. I’m thinking I should pop the top off of the container to get it out. It’s sealed pretty good with silicon it looks like though.
Do you leave the heater on when running the laser?
Yes you can leave it plugged it because it has a sensor that is only actives it when it gets below the set temperature.
@@ChadsCustomCreations Thank you so much!
What size and type of flow tubing is being used? I only have what came with the laser which is super short and I haven’t been able to find extra locally.
JUNZHIDA Silicone Tubing 8mm ID X 11mm OD Silicone Rubber Tube Food Grade for Pump Transfer, Homebrew Tube 16.4ft www.amazon.com/dp/B07V5PKYMK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_RTDWAWRYJ8AH9JJ92Y4W?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Just had a laser tube shatter on me, thing it might’ve already had a flaw but I’m not taking any chances with the Winter. So I’m going to try your method. I live in Montana so it gets cooooooooold. Thanks!
Make sure to monitor it cause Montana does get extremely cold especially compared to here in GA
Would it help to also to put antifreeze into the mix along with the method you showed? I originally did use antifreeze in my cooling mixture and it seemed to work well.
@@23wahoo23 I think as a fail safe it couldn't hurt. But when using the laser try to make sure you get it above 15c to reduce chances of thermal shock cracking it aswell.
Did you put the little pump going into the chiller or out of the chiller? I just installed mine, but it's not pulling water from the chiller. Also, Do I need to put the blue wheel before or after the pump? Thanks
I put little pump before input on chiller to pull water from tube. Little blue wheel on after output of chiller. Make sure little pump has water in the line or it won't be able to pump.
@@ChadsCustomCreations ok, great, thanks! So the pump pulls water from the tube into the chiller, and when the chiller is off, it should keep circulating the water? Thanks
@@tylergady2019 yes this is how my set up is working.
So I just looked and I realize that the seller of the original pump has changed the item to a submersible pump which will not work in the application like I showed here. I am looking online now and will be updating that link now.
@@ChadsCustomCreations I can get my pump to work in the sink, no go when I attach to chiller.
My 100 watt tube cracked last night as the ambient temp went down to -9°C. :(
Planning to add antifreeze with water with the new tube..
Can we do without heating the water? And still use the lazer without causing any damage to the tube in sub zero temps?
My understanding is it needs to be atleast 15 Celsius before using laser as it can cause it to crack from too quick of a temp change. This is why I am skipping the antifreeze and using the heater instead.
Also so sorry for the misfortune of your tube cracking. A friend of mine had the same thing happen and this is why I published this video
twisty ties ... aren't those what keeps the bread bag closed?
Haha yes they are holycrap you actually watched this video through. You are a true fan to sit through a 10 min video about ne putting a heater into a chiller. ❤
@@ChadsCustomCreations HOW DARE YOU - PEOPLE NAMED CHAD PUTTING HEATERS INTO CHILLERS IS MY PASSION
@@DrPorkchops you're in for a treat next I'll be wiring in an air solenoid to the ruida controller to give the laser the ability to run at a higher PSI. 🤓
Chad did you use this same winterizing method for your rm960 laser?
Yes I did same method on both machines.
@@ChadsCustomCreations Did you get a 3D cap from cyberhikerdd?
@@stevewoodrich5130 no never did. The 100w and up heaters actually fit the top really well for me dust isn’t an issue.
@@stevewoodrich5130 no never did. The 100w and up heaters actually fit the top really well for me dust isn’t an issue.
@@ChadsCustomCreations I used the links you provided to order and just noticed I ordered the 50W. I canceled it and I'm trying to find the 100W. I'm getting the rm1390 do you think the 100W is big enough for it? I don't see in your video where you used this "Zacro LCD Digital Aquarium Thermometer Fish Tank Water Terrarium Temperature" however it was in your parts links.
Why do you have a filter on your air pump?????
My thought was to capture moisture but I don’t believe those pumps actually create condensation. I have since switched to a California air compressor and that definitely needs a water separation especially in the summer here in Georgia with our high humidity.
If the power goes out?
For too long you would have to let the water out
What’s the coldest temperature your garage was during winter? Thus your water heater maintains the required temperature to protect the laser tube?
Not too cold I live in southern USA so coldest gets to about 25 F
I live in Chicago area and sometimes the ambient temp drops to -2 F. You think the water heater can maintain the required temp of the tube?
@@ferdieedquiban9047 I can't say for sure but they do sell higher wattage heaters I bet going with the higher ones would give you a better chance. You can also combine it with using RV antifreeze aswell.
Why didn't you put pure antifreeze directly? It's cheaper and more reliable.
It’s not just about keeping it from cracking for me it’s also about maintaining the optimal temperature for the Co2 laser to achieve the maximum power output of my laser it must be maintained within 15-25c. Having it ready to go whenever I need it is worth the $20 in parts.
I put antifreeze on my laser. Since my laser is 170 watts, I can cut even with forty percent power. But it sounds like a whistling sound. Is it normal when the light is turned off? This sound is very low
@@aigle2328 nice 170w I bet that thing can cut great. You ever try cutting the 3/4” red oak plywood from the big box stores? I used to be able to cut at 3/mms but they seemed to have changed the glue or something and now my results are too inconsistent.
I usually use poplar or mdf. Before the co2 laser, I had a 5w diode laser 😁😁😁I made a lot of cuts with it, but I recognized the trees. The tree you cut should be soft and the more multi-layered plywood you buy, the easier it will be to cut. I used to cut 3mm and 5mm poplar at the same time with a diode laser. Because 5 mm was 5 layers.
these tubes cannot work in 0 deg. Celcius. I just checked the technical datasheets of some manufacturers and they all say working temprratures are 0-50 deg. Celcius
Can I see your source for that information. I am thinking this would probably be specs for none glass tube lasers as 0 degrees Celsius = ice which = expansion
One more thing you could try this for hose clamps. ruclips.net/video/07oVoABYr10/видео.html I have yet to try it yet but I've been saving it for future projects.
Wow that is super cool and had no idea about Alex Lab just subbed that guy is awesome 👏
Unfortunately watching this after I already cracked my CO2 tube, oops :l
So sorry to hear this happened. The cold nights sneak in sometimes without warning. I still use this method but adding RV antifreeze might be a good failsafe also.
Putting the heater in is a good idea as long as you keep it circulating and know you won't lose electricity or it will be FREEZZZZZZZ Up time. Best choice is to keep it were you know the tube will stay warm. Just saying.
Yeah loosing electricity would be awful I would have to drain the system in that case. I am scares to think how many laser tubes shattered in Texas recently.
@@ChadsCustomCreations For sure. My thought is a cheap wood stove, so if the electricity goes out run out and fire up the old woody. Back up plans are good.
Temporary but yet every connection is done the same way and has dust all over them LOL
Over a year later my temporary connections are still collecting dust.