What a excellent job :) Congratulations and keep your awesome work to help guys like us keep their Gti 16v on the road. I have some videos that I made too everytime that i change some parts on my G2 gti 16v but no time to upload and make a Nice video like yours :p Nice job mate. Greetings from Portugal
HI,I HAVE TROUBLES WITH MY MK2 GTI 16V, 1992, SPEND A LOTO OF GAS . ALL START WHEN THE MECHANIC CHANGE THE RINGS AND NOW PRESENT THESE TROUBLES,, CAN U HELP ME PLEASE, ONLY WORK WITH THE MOTOR HEAD,
Superb. Thank you for the sizes etc. Where to get them. I'm refurbishing a escort rs turbo one that looks identical. Your info is spot on and supremely helpful.
You first need to set the static timing by lining up all the pulleys and camshaft etc. then for the ignition timing use the large mark on the flywheel which is the BTDC mark. This thread explains it: www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=52660.0 Hope this helps 👍🏻
Congratulations for your video. I have a mk2 gti 16v with kR engine from 05/1988 - 102 KW - 139 HP I have an axial linear play on the axle of the distributor. I don't have problems with it at the moment, but I don't think that this is right. And what happens when it turns (is it going up and down), I can't see it? Is it due to the deterioration and wearing of some of the weaker o-rings/rings/joints? But the biggest problem is that according to the VW manuals, the "distributor rotor" is sealed to the axle with permanent glue (and it feels so when I pull on it). Do I have to pull it out like crazy and maybe brake it or can I use perhaps some glue remover? I was surprised that it was so easily removed by yourselves. Any ideas if I can suddenly have a problem due to the abnormal play of the axle, and the best way to remove the distributor rotor with out breaking it? Thanks and best regards from Belgium.
hello excuse me if I disturb you. My sister's Golf MK2 16v has a problem. I can't warn you. I did various checks and found a possible problem. There is no power at the connector of the pre-heater and additional injector. The current I tried to measure it by removing the injector and preheater connectors. I thought it was the switch sensor under the water flange but even removing that connector I saw that there is no current even there. Do you think the current is given by the ECU? Or does the current come from somewhere else?
Hi, You will only see voltage to the 5th Injector (Or cold start valve) when you are starting the engine. To test this: 1) Make sure you test this from when the engine is cold, below 30 degrees C. 2) Unplug the connector from the cold start valve and connect a bulb light across the terminals. 3) Try starting the car, the bulb should light up then go out after a few seconds.If the bulb does not light up (no voltage on starting engine) then look further back in the wiring for breaks and then check the Thermotime switch for faults. Good luck 👍
I also thought that there might be a problem with the switch on the starter lock. How do you say exactly in English? I did a test on the connector that goes to the thermal switch for the warm-up and there is no current. I thought that when the switch is in the ignition starter position there is no power to the ECU and to other components in the engine due to the failure of the switch in the ignition switch. My sister's car sometimes doesn't start but sometimes it starts off pretty well. But it happened that after 10 km the car turned off and it was not turned on again even after several attempts. In that case he also had the ignition distributor not in good condition so I can't tell if it depended on it: I regenerated it thanks to your video. I keep you updated hello Oltrig
KEYO Thanks 👍🏻 I dont have a link for those specific washers. I just bought a box of mixed size fibre washers and picked the closest match. I also had to sand them down slightly as they were a little too thick.
Thanks! I just bought a set of mixed sizes and found the closest match. You may have to sand down the thickness of the washers if you do this so that it matches the thickness of the original.
hello dear, I wanted to ask you if the golf GTi 16v has a relay for the ECU and other electronic ignition related services. My GTI 8v golf has relay number 32. thank you let me know Oltrig
You are marking a point on the distributor body to match a point on your engine near the rocker cover. This is not a precise set point but more for your own benefit so that you can align both points up again when you refit your distributor. Reason being is that your distributor rotates which is how you set your ignition timing. You dont have to mark it but this would mean that you have to reset your timing with a strobe light afterwards, so marking its position saves the hassle later on.
when you go back to the element that rotates and insert the pin is it important to put the element from the right direction? I saw that the two notches of the lower element where the pin goes are not eccentric. I disassembled the distributor without paying attention to the exact position and now I do not know what is right.
Oltrig hi, yes, I think it needs to be right, otherwise your timing will be 180 degrees out as the rotor arm only fits one way as far as I can see as it has a notch in it. Did you set the engine to top dead centre before you removed the distributor? If so then maybe you could try and line the distributor shaft back up with the rotor arm in place. So with the rotor arm facing towards the top left as in the video. Maybe then you could check the end of the cam and try to line up the notches with the distrubutor drive nut where the notches are slightly off centre. Hopefully that will help you align it back in the original position. Good luck! 👍🏻
dear friend, the cylinder sequence of the golf 2 GTi 16v is 1-3-4-2? another question: can you tell me which is the first cylinder on the distributor cap? can I send you a picture?
Oltrig Hi, yes, the sequence is 1,3,4,2 anticlockwise of the distributor. Take a look at this page that might help: forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2677749-Purchased#/topics/2677749
If you want to change the main seal that meets the engine block can you just undo the two bolts and mark the dizzy so when bolted back on its in the same place, I will not even have to take the dizzy of the housing I Imagine, just wondering if I did that whether it could harm the timing or ignition. ? Thanks
KEYO I think as long as you mark the position before losening the bolts you should be fine. Just line up the marks on refitting. And you could even leave the distributor cap and ignition leads connected to do this.
@@RetroVW Ok thanks mate Ill give it a go as have oil leaking from that area and also got hot oil leaking on the the sensor cables, not good ! Don't have to put the car in gear or turn the engine or remove spark plugs etc ? Thanks
If you are just replacing the main seal and not stripping the distributor down then theres no need to leave in gear or remove spark plugs, as you are just refitting it back in the same way it was removed. No need to disconnect the battery either. Just dont try to start thd engine while the distributor is off the car 😆
I'm sorry you could give me a very important information. In my Golf the distributor has 4 windows for the hall sensor. Could you tell me if these windows are all the same or if one is bigger than the other 3? Because in the original sensor that I removed from the car are all the same but I do not know if it has been tampered with. While on a sensor that I bought not original, a window is bigger than the other three and now I do not know if it's right what I have below or it's just the non-original one. For me it's very important thanks Stefano
Oltrig Hi, I just double checked and all 4 holes (or windows as you say) are the same on mine. I measured each of the holes as best as I could with the distributor in situ and each of the holes are 15mm wide each. Hope this helps!
Thank you so much I checked and also mine is the same size of 15 mm. Ok now I'm calm because I know it has not been changed. I have a big difficulty removing the shaft. Did it ever happen that the plug could be removed with difficulty? I'm afraid we put glue on the plug for safety and now it's very difficult to remove it.@@RetroVW
can you tell me the healing you used in the image of the distributor's axis, the ones you photographed in the fixed image of the rotor you took off with the windows?
Oltrig Sorry, I dont understand which part you mean when you say the ‘healing’? Are you referring to the photo at 4:50 in the video? If so, these are the original steel washers along with 2 new fibre washers.
Oltrig if you search online or places like ebay for a box of mixed fibre washers, and pick out one that fits. You may need to sand them down a bit if they are too thick as the original ones that came off are very thin.
Hi Friend, I have to ask you something very important about my sister's car. He has a golf gti 16v kr 1990 like yours. I thought this car had an electronic control unit but when I went to see the electronic control unit in the bonnet there is not. I have a 1990 8v golf gti 1990 PB and mine has the electronic control unit under the power module for the spark plug system. Can you help me and confirm that your car should be the same that my sister has an electronic control unit as my car of course with a different code specific to the golf gti 16v KR? let me know thank you so much.
Oltrig hi, the 16v K-Jet that your sister has will have an ecu located within the scuttle tray under the bonnet. This is the plastic tray cover where your wiper motors are located. The ecu on the 16v K-Jet only controls the ignition timing, all the fuel is mechanically controlled. You should join the clubgti forum as theres a lot of really useful information on there about these cars. 👍🏻
Dear friend, I have already contacted you for the 16v golf spinterogeno equal to your KR. The machine, however, always has the same problem, sometimes it starts very well without problems, sometimes it doesn't want to start. I thought the problem could be caused by the water temperature sensor located under the flange which is in turn under the distributor. However, I can't find the sensor code even with the engine diagrams. You can help me? In your opinion, could this sensor be responsible for the problems of starting the machine, sometimes yes sometimes not? I thank you and salute you. P.S: I have a golf gti 8v mk2 and once I had the problem with the water temperature sensor that didn't let me start the machine because sometimes it worked sometimes it didn't work. My sister's golf gti 16v. Hi Oltrig
Hi, Not sure, it could be a number of things, but if you suspect one of the 3 temp sensors are faulty below the distributor then you could test each by swapping the wires around and checking the dashboard temp gauge to see if it rises when warming the engine up. I think they are all the same temperature rating, 1 is temp sensor for the dashboard temp gauge, 1 is temp sensor for the ECU and 1 is temp sensor for the ISV Controller. It could also be your cold start valve as per your other question above. Good luck.
you could give me your email because I have to send you a picture to explain something about a VW piece that I think have taken off in the car but I can not explain in English.
Have the same problem with my 96 mk3 1.4 aex engine. It looks exactly the same. Thank you for showing what to do.
No problem 👍
Excellent, so helpful as my car has ALL the issues you cover! Thanks
Glad I found this channel, good work man very helpful
TIMARUblitzkrieg thanks 👍🏻😀
you're a bloody artist!
Superb video buddy hat off to you
What a excellent job :) Congratulations and keep your awesome work to help guys like us keep their Gti 16v on the road.
I have some videos that I made too everytime that i change some parts on my G2 gti 16v but no time to upload and make a Nice video like yours :p
Nice job mate.
Greetings from Portugal
André Macedo thanks for the comment, I appreciate it 👍🏻😀
HI,I HAVE TROUBLES WITH MY MK2 GTI 16V, 1992, SPEND A LOTO OF GAS . ALL START WHEN THE MECHANIC CHANGE THE RINGS AND NOW PRESENT THESE TROUBLES,, CAN U HELP ME PLEASE, ONLY WORK WITH THE MOTOR HEAD,
Superb. Thank you for the sizes etc. Where to get them.
I'm refurbishing a escort rs turbo one that looks identical.
Your info is spot on and supremely helpful.
Hi Retro VW,
I know this video is not about timing, but do you know where can I find or how to put on time this kind of engines 16v 2.0?
Thanks
You first need to set the static timing by lining up all the pulleys and camshaft etc. then for the ignition timing use the large mark on the flywheel which is the BTDC mark.
This thread explains it:
www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=52660.0
Hope this helps 👍🏻
Good job!
Adam Scrivner Thanks! 😀
Congratulations for your video.
I have a mk2 gti 16v with kR engine from 05/1988 - 102 KW - 139 HP
I have an axial linear play on the axle of the distributor.
I don't have problems with it at the moment, but I don't think that this is right.
And what happens when it turns (is it going up and down), I can't see it?
Is it due to the deterioration and wearing of some of the weaker o-rings/rings/joints?
But the biggest problem is that according to the VW manuals, the "distributor rotor" is sealed to the axle with permanent glue (and it feels so when I pull on it).
Do I have to pull it out like crazy and maybe brake it or can I use perhaps some glue remover?
I was surprised that it was so easily removed by yourselves.
Any ideas if I can suddenly have a problem due to the abnormal play of the axle, and the best way to remove the distributor rotor with out breaking it?
Thanks and best regards from Belgium.
hello excuse me if I disturb you. My sister's Golf MK2 16v has a problem. I can't warn you. I did various checks and found a possible problem. There is no power at the connector of the pre-heater and additional injector. The current I tried to measure it by removing the injector and preheater connectors. I thought it was the switch sensor under the water flange but even removing that connector I saw that there is no current even there. Do you think the current is given by the ECU? Or does the current come from somewhere else?
Hi,
You will only see voltage to the 5th Injector (Or cold start valve) when you are starting the engine.
To test this:
1) Make sure you test this from when the engine is cold, below 30 degrees C.
2) Unplug the connector from the cold start valve and connect a bulb light across the terminals.
3) Try starting the car, the bulb should light up then go out after a few seconds.If the bulb does not light up (no voltage on starting engine) then look further back in the wiring for breaks and then check the Thermotime switch for faults.
Good luck 👍
I also thought that there might be a problem with the switch on the starter lock. How do you say exactly in English? I did a test on the connector that goes to the thermal switch for the warm-up and there is no current. I thought that when the switch is in the ignition starter position there is no power to the ECU and to other components in the engine due to the failure of the switch in the ignition switch. My sister's car sometimes doesn't start but sometimes it starts off pretty well. But it happened that after 10 km the car turned off and it was not turned on again even after several attempts. In that case he also had the ignition distributor not in good condition so I can't tell if it depended on it: I regenerated it thanks to your video. I keep you updated hello Oltrig
Have you got a link for the x2 fibre washers ? Thank You good video.
KEYO Thanks 👍🏻 I dont have a link for those specific washers. I just bought a box of mixed size fibre washers and picked the closest match. I also had to sand them down slightly as they were a little too thick.
Hello, did you find out what size washers they are ? Many thanks 😊
Very good video, exactly what I needed. Thanks, what size fiber washers did you use ?
Thanks! I just bought a set of mixed sizes and found the closest match. You may have to sand down the thickness of the washers if you do this so that it matches the thickness of the original.
hello dear, I wanted to ask you if the golf GTi 16v has a relay for the ECU and other electronic ignition related services. My GTI 8v golf has relay number 32. thank you let me know Oltrig
What exactly is being done when marking the distributor? What do I mark and what matches up to the mark
You are marking a point on the distributor body to match a point on your engine near the rocker cover. This is not a precise set point but more for your own benefit so that you can align both points up again when you refit your distributor.
Reason being is that your distributor rotates which is how you set your ignition timing. You dont have to mark it but this would mean that you have to reset your timing with a strobe light afterwards, so marking its position saves the hassle later on.
when you go back to the element that rotates and insert the pin is it important to put the element from the right direction? I saw that the two notches of the lower element where the pin goes are not eccentric.
I disassembled the distributor without paying attention to the exact position and now I do not know what is right.
Oltrig hi, yes, I think it needs to be right, otherwise your timing will be 180 degrees out as the rotor arm only fits one way as far as I can see as it has a notch in it.
Did you set the engine to top dead centre before you removed the distributor? If so then maybe you could try and line the distributor shaft back up with the rotor arm in place. So with the rotor arm facing towards the top left as in the video. Maybe then you could check the end of the cam and try to line up the notches with the distrubutor drive nut where the notches are slightly off centre. Hopefully that will help you align it back in the original position.
Good luck! 👍🏻
dear friend, the cylinder sequence of the golf 2 GTi 16v is 1-3-4-2? another question: can you tell me which is the first cylinder on the distributor cap? can I send you a picture?
Oltrig Hi, yes, the sequence is 1,3,4,2 anticlockwise of the distributor. Take a look at this page that might help:
forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2677749-Purchased#/topics/2677749
If you want to change the main seal that meets the engine block can you just undo the two bolts and mark the dizzy so when bolted back on its in the same place, I will not even have to take the dizzy of the housing I Imagine, just wondering if I did that whether it could harm the timing or ignition. ? Thanks
KEYO I think as long as you mark the position before losening the bolts you should be fine. Just line up the marks on refitting. And you could even leave the distributor cap and ignition leads connected to do this.
@@RetroVW Ok thanks mate Ill give it a go as have oil leaking from that area and also got hot oil leaking on the the sensor cables, not good ! Don't have to put the car in gear or turn the engine or remove spark plugs etc ? Thanks
Or disconnect the battery ? Thanks again.
If you are just replacing the main seal and not stripping the distributor down then theres no need to leave in gear or remove spark plugs, as you are just refitting it back in the same way it was removed.
No need to disconnect the battery either. Just dont try to start thd engine while the distributor is off the car 😆
@@RetroVW Thanks a lot for you help great videos you have published.
I'm sorry you could give me a very important information. In my Golf the distributor has 4 windows for the hall sensor. Could you tell me if these windows are all the same or if one is bigger than the other 3?
Because in the original sensor that I removed from the car are all the same but I do not know if it has been tampered with.
While on a sensor that I bought not original, a window is bigger than the other three and now I do not know if it's right what I have below or it's just the non-original one.
For me it's very important thanks Stefano
Oltrig Hi, I just double checked and all 4 holes (or windows as you say) are the same on mine.
I measured each of the holes as best as I could with the distributor in situ and each of the holes are 15mm wide each.
Hope this helps!
Thank you so much I checked and also mine is the same size of 15 mm. Ok now I'm calm because I know it has not been changed.
I have a big difficulty removing the shaft. Did it ever happen that the plug could be removed with difficulty? I'm afraid we put glue on the plug for safety and now it's very difficult to remove it.@@RetroVW
I replaced my whole distributor, with new seals ofc, everything new, yet i get leak after replaced, why is this?
can you tell me the healing you used in the image of the distributor's axis, the ones you photographed in the fixed image of the rotor you took off with the windows?
Oltrig Sorry, I dont understand which part you mean when you say the ‘healing’?
Are you referring to the photo at 4:50 in the video? If so, these are the original steel washers along with 2 new fibre washers.
yes just those. I do not know the name of those fiber washers and where I could buy them.
Can you help me?
thanks a lot@@RetroVW
Oltrig if you search online or places like ebay for a box of mixed fibre washers, and pick out one that fits.
You may need to sand them down a bit if they are too thick as the original ones that came off are very thin.
Hi Friend, I have to ask you something very important about my sister's car. He has a golf gti 16v kr 1990 like yours. I thought this car had an electronic control unit but when I went to see the electronic control unit in the bonnet there is not. I have a 1990 8v golf gti 1990 PB and mine has the electronic control unit under the power module for the spark plug system.
Can you help me and confirm that your car should be the same that my sister has an electronic control unit as my car of course with a different code specific to the golf gti 16v KR?
let me know thank you so much.
Oltrig hi, the 16v K-Jet that your sister has will have an ecu located within the scuttle tray under the bonnet. This is the plastic tray cover where your wiper motors are located.
The ecu on the 16v K-Jet only controls the ignition timing, all the fuel is mechanically controlled.
You should join the clubgti forum as theres a lot of really useful information on there about these cars. 👍🏻
Dear friend,
I have already contacted you for the 16v golf spinterogeno equal to your KR.
The machine, however, always has the same problem, sometimes it starts very well without problems, sometimes it doesn't want to start.
I thought the problem could be caused by the water temperature sensor located under the flange which is in turn under the distributor.
However, I can't find the sensor code even with the engine diagrams.
You can help me?
In your opinion, could this sensor be responsible for the problems of starting the machine, sometimes yes sometimes not?
I thank you and salute you.
P.S: I have a golf gti 8v mk2 and once I had the problem with the water temperature sensor that didn't let me start the machine because sometimes it worked sometimes it didn't work.
My sister's golf gti 16v.
Hi Oltrig
Hi,
Not sure, it could be a number of things, but if you suspect one of the 3 temp sensors are faulty below the distributor then you could test each by swapping the wires around and checking the dashboard temp gauge to see if it rises when warming the engine up.
I think they are all the same temperature rating, 1 is temp sensor for the dashboard temp gauge, 1 is temp sensor for the ECU and 1 is temp sensor for the ISV Controller.
It could also be your cold start valve as per your other question above.
Good luck.
@@RetroVW What is ISV controller?
Oltrig ISV - Idle Stabilization Valve.
you could give me your email because I have to send you a picture to explain something about a VW piece that I think have taken off in the car but I can not explain in English.