As a former 69 Road runner owner...make sure you go through and clean thoroughly the wiring block on fire wall. They are notorious for causing no starts. (from corrosion)
Replaced my first one when I was 15. Benefits of a dad who helped spin wrenches and knew all the tricks ("don't waste money on slapper bars, it'sa Mopar, put in a pinion snubber").. Fond memories of making a sleeper out of junk... Great job and thanks!
Danni is the coolest helping with the work load. My wife is the same way and not afraid to dig in when i need to get something done . There is a trade off. I now know how to use a mop on our floors, do dishes using soap instead of gasoline and can work the washer and drier. And you thought it was all one sided. To be honest, it was a surprise to me to. Both of you are a perfect match.
Thank you for this video. AS a noob I really really needed something like this that goes step by step and that shows all the steps like you are doing here. I have a 1968 Roadrunner that I have had since 2008 and am only now learning
I didn't see anything wrong with how you did the whole front suspension and brakes. I think it was very informative and reminded me why I love working on old cars.
I miss all the cars I had back in the day ! Wish I had never got rid of them . I had a 56 and 55 Chevy my first car was a 691/2 440 six pack A12 that’s a car a 16 year old should never have I’ll leave it at that!! This was back in 1973 . I love the old try five chevy’s and the late sixties mopar’s l raced a 1970 Duster 340 that one and my 55 Chevy are the ones I miss the most. That’s why I enjoy watching you I really like what you are doing keep it up . But I’ll say this hold on to the ones you really like because there getting harder to get !
road runner owner here since 1975 owned a few but the one i got i have had since 1975 make sure you check under dash at the amp meter if it has one they usually get hot and burn and cause over heating problems at the bulk head connecter i eliminate them and put under dash volt meter in about all MOPARS i have owned and that is a lot i think your doing very good for the first MOPAR keep them videos coming
You talked quantity over quality in previous vid You sir do quality work whether chevy, dodge or ford. Like the fact your learning new stuff while giving us something to watch
Tell Danni good job. Back years ago I would put springs on like that with pliers, didn't have that tool, and for packing wheel bearings, the grease goes right onto the bare hand!
Those Camber (eccentric) bolts you are installing. The 2nd torsion bar that broke on my ex's Duster, took out one of those bolts when the car slammed to the ground. The whole wheel was shifting and moving about. (The car drifted a bit at highway speeds, so I knew something was wrong...) A co-worked saw it as I backed into a parking stall. OK, strut bar. It keeps the control arms from moving towards the rear of the car as the car is taking bumps. I cannot explain it better, that's how I understand it.. It's great to finally see a Mopar front end being put back together...Got it...
Never done a Mopar myself, but have seen guys drop the k-member to do pretty much all the front end-work and raise it back into the car (or lower the body onto it) complete with engine and transmission when it's all tidied up. Looks easy at a safe distance!
Dan, @ 22:58 I always used Vise grips to install those return springs...I just couldn't deal with that tool. The spring always fell off....Meh, I never had an issue doing it with the "wrong-tool"... EXTRA POINTS FOR DANNI DOING IT!
Hey Dan love the car it looks so nice and straight on the driver side you need to fix that front fender on a passenger no car will be mint! Love the car
This is my favorite car so far from the channel. I had a few Mopars many years ago. So this brings back a lot of memories. I had to get new front drums for my 68 Charger when I was in high school which required a machine shop to remove the old hubs and press in new studs etc. But when I saw how you did it so the hub and drum can remain separate, I thought that's brilliant! I wish I had known then that this was possible. I also wish I had known all this stuff would be worth a small fortune in the future. Maybe I wouldn't have gotten rid of it all.
Yuh done good It's true the slave cylinder bolts are in a tough place. Back in the day it would be 20 years before they leaked and when they did we rebuilt them on the car, by honing and putting a kit in. Rarely did you remove and replace them, like everyone does today. Vividly remember Pappy snapping off his second LH wheel stud before I could get out to him with a Whoa! That's a pre-70 Dad! You Westerners are so lucky with no salt. In Ontario I change my gas and brake lines every ten years, whether they need it(they usually do) or not. Great job, keep up the good work Malcolm Ottawa Valley
Lol, I remember commenting a while back on an older video for you to not forget about the break and fuel lines because you cut them. Annnnd here we are! Good catch!
Gee, thanks for that bit about equating empty parts boxes to past cash.... Now it's all I'm going to see. Dani can pack my bearings anytime. 😊 Thanks for sharing!
Tack welds are cheap, lol love it! Dani u r a trooper packing that bearing, men don't need gloves, lol! I hate drum brakes, u have more patience then me to deal with them. That is why I am going to change out to disc when I get to rebuilding the 67 Camaro. Love ur videos
Great video Dan. One tip though From a mopar guy....those drums need to be swaged to the hubs Without...they will slip on the hub and the studs will jack up the drum. Causing all kinds of issues. Chevy drums are hubcentric. And once you’ve got the wheels tight the drum stays put. no so for mopars The swages centre the drum on the hub. I tried it years ago after seeing many chevys with them separate Roached a very expensive set of drums because of it.
Hi Dan & Danni.....good to see you are teaching the Missus the bearing packing. Well done Danni !! Great video , I do not find this boring. It is a learning experience for sure. Thank you for what you do. Cant wait for your next video.
Really great job on putting all new parts an front end back together.. looks so nice all painted up .. one little thing extra I would have done is put never seize on the threads .. in a huge believer in never seize .. jus so much nicer for the next time u take apart or for the next guy .. other than that ya did super super job !! I’m surprised as u being a mechanic at your full time job you would have done more front end work in all name brands of vehicles.. I realize you may not have many oldies coming thru the shop like that but still on some mid 80s 90s stuff .. any who lol .. looking forward to the next video !! Cheers 🍻
Good work Dan. Is going to be nice, especially once that motor fires. Please paint the car, that would be really trick. But paint the hood with the scoop satin black.👍
"Whats going on guys?" Pulling up a chair to watch more of the 55 station wagon videos. Oops. Now its the 68 Plymouth. Building quite a collection. Complete Car builds.
OK, Dan, I'm seeing you getting into learning something different. You're getting into the Mopar frame of mind AND, you're showing us how you did it to boot!!! I learned at work, that one cannot be afraid, or, shy away,, from learning something new....I think that's what kept me employed 40 years at a company that had layoffs every Friday....The Mopar guys are, no doubt,,,,,,grinning seeing you going after this Dodge. (PLYMOUTH!!!!!) Just say Mopar Dan, and you'll be good... Sorry Danni, I never use gloves to re-pack bearings to this day...Yeah, it's a smell that stays with you! Difficult to handle raw food afterwards. (It always tastes like wheel bearing grease.) Meh, I'm still alive and kickin!!! Glad you used gloves Danni !!!!!!!
Wonderful job on a worthy car. Can't wait to see the 440 motor. I raced against a 440 once on the street. I had a Corvette 327 365 with a 373 gear, his 440 had such torque that i beat him to 100 MPH but as we got to the top end he slowly crawled ahead about 130 MPH. I was sick. They can pull a lot of car. All the best, Dennis in Virginia
Tighten suspension when car is at ride height so that bushings are at neutral twisting pressure. Especially lower control arm bushings. My 2 cents. Thanks for saving a mopar. Your right chevys are cheaper to build. Another great video. Set ride height as per factory spec to avoid bump steer..level car to 1/8 inch side to side. To level car lift one side and lower other same amount or vice versa. Hope this helps.
If you are going to convert to front disks, speedway motors sells a kit with everything but the lower ball joints (discs require bigger attaching bolts.) Otherwise look for a late 70's Cordoba or Magnum for junk yard parts.
Satellite, Super Bee thats the clone I would make. Looking Great Dan Entire car is coming along Nicely..440 here we come its going to Rip. Be a great weekend Cruiser.
Good stuff as usual, sorry I enjoy watching you struggle a bit because you help me know it's not just me. My current project is a mistreated 72 El Camino...
One thing for sure when you talked about the drum breaks and a Big block. I had a 68 GTX 440 with drums. All sorts a go and no woe. Very close to a total loss in the rear end wreck. Of course is was 18 then. Nuff said.
It looks as good as brand new. Real nice work. Thanks for the video. The rust on the bottom of the fender might get a lot worse it would be a shame if it did rust out so maybe a smidgen of primer and can of green paint smudged right there would keep it from rusting out. The car looks real nice and solid.
Dan a couple things. Antiseize really helps assembling this old iron. Also helps if you need to work on it later. Also on the Wagon to fix the tight gap on the bottom of the fenders add some shims under the rad support. You work on some pretty nasty stuff and do a great job. Keep the videos coming.
Your next Chevy project should be a Vega (in stock form) or a Chevette or an Aveo or a Cruze or a Spark or an Equinox (with the Chinese motor) just to name a few. That's why your next project should be a Chevy. Keep up the good work Danny boy!
FYI Dan. Torsion bars for a small block vs big block are different. If it was originally a 318 car, you may want to upgrade the torsion bars to 440 size. (You will run out of adjustment to get the front end high enough). Keep up the good work and videos!!
And yes, you need the clip on the back side of the torsion bar. Not likely but you wouldn’t want that bar to work it’s way out traveling 120mph on the freeway.
Nice job Dan....I'm a chevy guy but I love dodge muscle cars as well. Here's a trick I use when changing out tie rods. I take a scrap 2X4 and screw another shorter scrap one on one end and place the old tie rod in the jig and use another scrap and screw it down completing the measuring jig. Adjust the new tie rod assembly and use the jig to get the same distance as the old one. Use it on the other side and change the measurement with the second tie rod in place. Hope this will help, my brother taught me this trick 30 years ago and I never have any trouble with keeping the front end square.
Don't worry about the stopping power of the drums on front. When I was a kid we always said "A hot rod is for going, not for slowing". (Okay, maybe not the smartest philosophy, but we all survived. Lol)
Suggestion, good long fiber/boat trailer wheel bearing lube on the contact surfaces of the upper arm cam bolts and washers. Stuck torsion bar tip. Make sure ur good at the bar c clip, and the 5/8 torsion bar tensioner is backed out then loosen the lower arm nut and drive the arm and bar back.
YES, you DO need the torsion bar retainer clip. It keeps the torsion bar from backing out. Short story: A customer who knew I was into old mopars was called by his neighbor and told his front end hit the ground after coming out of a pothole down the street from his house. He told my customer that he was sure the torsion box was rotted and he wasn't going to fix it, but he remembered him saying he knew a guy who worked on old mopars. My customer calls me the next day and says: All of the above and exactly where it is, that it I want it to send a flat bed to pick it up and he would bring me the title in a few days along with everything the guy had for the car. I send my buddy to grab it and he drops it in my yard. I am slammed, so I never got to the car to even look at it for a few weeks. He dropped the keys and a pile of parts and the title and tells me his buddy bought a new 4x4 Dodge PU truck. Another week or two go by and I finally start looking over the car to see what is good on it. Jesus, this car is in great shape everywhere!! It's a 1964 Sports Fury with a 383 and automatic and 8 3/4 rear end. In the console is a pile of receipts for everything done on the car for decades. Turns out the car only had in the low 70K miles and had never been on the road in the winter. I get my floor jack on the roll to the parking lot and lift her up and see the torsion bar has snapped in two!!! The thing fires right up and my buddy gets on the jack and guides me into the bay. Up she goes and the torsion boxes are perfect!! Under this car is gorgeous!!! So, i look on one of the receipts and call the old owner and tell him he needs to repair this car and keep it. I gave him a price to repair it with a new pair of t-bars and an alignment. He told me to keep it, but it wasn't right. He complained about having to tune the car up all the time and that it was killing him to drop it off and pay for the same thing over and over. So I told him I would make the car run well without the repetitive tune ups and if he didn't like it for any reason, I would buy it from him. I put an electronic distributor in it with a gold brain and a set of T-bars and an alignment. He came and looked under the car and I showed him everything he wasn't seeing. Turns out his old mechanic was telling him it wasn't going to be much longer before he'd be telling him it wasn't worth putting any more money into it.. Fucker was trying to steal his car!! I was his mechanic for years after that and the car was eventually handed down to his son.. Moral to the story: It was a PLYMOUTH!!!!!!! Hahahahahahahahaa......
As a former 69 Road runner owner...make sure you go through and clean thoroughly the wiring block on fire wall. They are notorious for causing no starts. (from corrosion)
Replaced my first one when I was 15. Benefits of a dad who helped spin wrenches and knew all the tricks ("don't waste money on slapper bars, it'sa Mopar, put in a pinion snubber").. Fond memories of making a sleeper out of junk... Great job and thanks!
I love how Dani comes out and help with the car. If I asked my wife to pack bearing it would end in divorce.
@James Ogden lmao
I was wondering what the conversation was when she lubing it up on the time lapse. Sorry. My mind ain't right. lol!
My wife likes my gto and muscle cars and if i asked her she would probably just laugh and say ahhhh no!! Fun times!
Danni is the coolest helping with the work load. My wife is the same way and not afraid to dig in when i need to get something done . There is a trade off. I now know how to use a mop on our floors, do dishes using soap instead of gasoline and can work the washer and drier. And you thought it was all one sided. To be honest, it was a surprise to me to. Both of you are a perfect match.
Well, I can see it now.....Dan cooking in the kitchen and Danni welding and grinding!!!!!!! New title....”Cars By DANNI”!!!!!!
Love it..."for foot pounds, it's what ever I got". You never know what to expect: Mr. Dan just keeps getting funnier..
Great Monday morning video. Looks like your making headway . Have a great week. 👍
Great job. It's coming along nicely 👍👍🇨🇱
Thank you for this video. AS a noob I really really needed something like this that goes step by step and that shows all the steps like you are doing here. I have a 1968 Roadrunner that I have had since 2008 and am only now learning
Almost ready for that hot 440!
I didn't see anything wrong with how you did the whole front suspension and brakes. I think it was very informative and reminded me why I love working on old cars.
Painted parts , installed parts owning a Mopar ... Priceless . Good job Danny Boy !!!
I miss all the cars I had back in the day ! Wish I had never got rid of them . I had a 56 and 55 Chevy my first car was a 691/2 440 six pack A12 that’s a car a 16 year old should never have I’ll leave it at that!! This was back in 1973 . I love the old try five chevy’s and the late sixties mopar’s l raced a 1970 Duster 340 that one and my 55 Chevy are the ones I miss the most. That’s why I enjoy watching you I really like what you are doing keep it up . But I’ll say this hold on to the ones you really like because there getting harder to get !
I missed DD's Mopar shop arc😂. That's a killer Mopar too
Drum brakes are fine. The factory had them on big block cars and discs can be upgraded at anytime. Keep up the great work!
At at a hundred plus miles an hour drum brakes suck ask me I'll tell you all about that
Coming along nicely. Will be running soon 👍
gonna be doing this soon on a 64 valiant and this REALLY helps out before diving in to it. Appreciate how straightforward you were with everything!
road runner owner here since 1975 owned a few but the one i got i have had since 1975 make sure you check under dash at the amp meter if it has one they usually get hot and burn and cause over heating problems at the bulk head connecter i eliminate them and put under dash volt meter in about all MOPARS i have owned and that is a lot i think your doing very good for the first MOPAR keep them videos coming
I always wondered how those Mopar front ends worked, thanks for showing us Mr. Mopar.
Coming along nice. Be a nice driver when it’s done. Getting groceries in style.
You talked quantity over quality in previous vid You sir do quality work whether chevy, dodge or ford. Like the fact your learning new stuff while giving us something to watch
She's gonna be breaking necks and hearts soon enough. Thanks for another great vidya!
When you break a torsion bar, and you will, save it. They make the best pry bar ever. I still have mine from the 1960’s.
Dang man. Between work and the cars you are a machine
Dani did good on packing the wheel bearing..I usually drop them in the dirt at least once
Whenever I changed lug studs on molars I always put RH thread in. Looking real good Dan. Keep on keeping on
Love the car and the show .. As soon as my rich uncle gets out of the poor house . I'm buying that !!!!
You showing the Queen D how to pack a wheel bearing is how I learned from my dad how to pack a wheel bearing. Old school
Tell Danni good job. Back years ago I would put springs on like that with pliers, didn't have that tool, and for packing wheel bearings, the grease goes right onto the bare hand!
Those Camber (eccentric) bolts you are installing. The 2nd torsion bar that broke on my ex's Duster, took out one of those bolts when the car slammed to the ground. The whole wheel was shifting and moving about. (The car drifted a bit at highway speeds, so I knew something was wrong...) A co-worked saw it as I backed into a parking stall.
OK, strut bar. It keeps the control arms from moving towards the rear of the car as the car is taking bumps. I cannot explain it better, that's how I understand it..
It's great to finally see a Mopar front end being put back together...Got it...
The ol mopar's coming together! Lookin great!! Great work, mucho respect to you sir for how hard you work on these cool classics!!
Never done a Mopar myself, but have seen guys drop the k-member to do pretty much all the front end-work and raise it back into the car (or lower the body onto it) complete with engine and transmission when it's all tidied up. Looks easy at a safe distance!
The Satellite looks awesome!! Can't wait until that 440 arrives!! Keep up the good work. Cheers!!
You and Danni working together...awesome👍👍❤️
Good job Dan. Yeah disk brake upgrade is a must.
Dan, @ 22:58 I always used Vise grips to install those return springs...I just couldn't deal with that tool. The spring always fell off....Meh, I never had an issue doing it with the "wrong-tool"...
EXTRA POINTS FOR DANNI DOING IT!
Gitter Done Dan , Good Job Dan
Hell man you are kicking ass on the satellite.....nice work can’t wait for the 440 install and first burnout!!!!
Hey Dan love the car it looks so nice and straight on the driver side you need to fix that front fender on a passenger no car will be mint! Love the car
Thanks for sharing your friend from B.C Rob B.C 🇨🇦 😎✌
Another instructional vide. Never tire of them. Rock On, Dan.
There is no right or wrong way. There is the quest for getting it assembled frustration free the first time.
Man, you're making this thing mechanically brand new!
This is my favorite car so far from the channel. I had a few Mopars many years ago. So this brings back a lot of memories. I had to get new front drums for my 68 Charger when I was in high school which required a machine shop to remove the old hubs and press in new studs etc. But when I saw how you did it so the hub and drum can remain separate, I thought that's brilliant! I wish I had known then that this was possible. I also wish I had known all this stuff would be worth a small fortune in the future. Maybe I wouldn't have gotten rid of it all.
Yuh done good
It's true the slave cylinder bolts are in a tough place. Back in the day it would be 20 years before they leaked and when they did we rebuilt them on the car, by honing and putting a kit in.
Rarely did you remove and replace them, like everyone does today.
Vividly remember Pappy snapping off his second LH wheel stud before I could get out to him with a Whoa! That's a pre-70 Dad!
You Westerners are so lucky with no salt. In Ontario I change my gas and brake lines every ten years, whether they need it(they usually do) or not.
Great job, keep up the good work
Malcolm Ottawa Valley
Tonnes of salt out here in MB. 🙂
BOB.. good way to remember BiG shoe to Back
“Big on back”
Looking good dan, sure is nice to have the other half come out and help in the garage at times isn't it.
Lol, I remember commenting a while back on an older video for you to not forget about the break and fuel lines because you cut them. Annnnd here we are! Good catch!
Gee, thanks for that bit about equating empty parts boxes to past cash.... Now it's all I'm going to see.
Dani can pack my bearings anytime. 😊
Thanks for sharing!
Mickey Thompson Sportsman S/R Tires would look good on that .
Agreed! I just put a set of sr's on my 69 goat...28x12x15 and 26x6x15's. Nice lookin tires!
@@puddleduckist I bet it looks good .
Tack welds are cheap, lol love it! Dani u r a trooper packing that bearing, men don't need gloves, lol! I hate drum brakes, u have more patience then me to deal with them. That is why I am going to change out to disc when I get to rebuilding the 67 Camaro. Love ur videos
Toot Toot!!! You earned it Dan! Go ahead and toot your own horn...lol! ✌
Great video Dan. One tip though
From a mopar guy....those drums need to be swaged to the hubs
Without...they will slip on the hub and the studs will jack up the drum.
Causing all kinds of issues.
Chevy drums are hubcentric.
And once you’ve got the wheels tight the drum stays put. no so for mopars
The swages centre the drum on the hub. I tried it years ago after seeing many chevys with them separate
Roached a very expensive set of drums because of it.
Hi Dan & Danni.....good to see you are teaching the Missus the bearing packing. Well done Danni !! Great video , I do not find this boring. It is a learning experience for sure. Thank you for what you do. Cant wait for your next video.
Really great job on putting all new parts an front end back together.. looks so nice all painted up .. one little thing extra I would have done is put never seize on the threads .. in a huge believer in never seize .. jus so much nicer for the next time u take apart or for the next guy .. other than that ya did super super job !! I’m surprised as u being a mechanic at your full time job you would have done more front end work in all name brands of vehicles.. I realize you may not have many oldies coming thru the shop like that but still on some mid 80s 90s stuff .. any who lol .. looking forward to the next video !! Cheers 🍻
Good work Dan. Is going to be nice, especially once that motor fires. Please paint the car, that would be really trick. But paint the hood with the scoop satin black.👍
Its ready for the 440 can't wait
I cant wait for that Chrysler satellite to be ls swapped
@@chuckstith838 I'm not a fan of ls swaps but if it pisses the dodge boys off more why the hell not.
its looking great Dan ...
God bless Dani packing wheel bearings my Wife would have told me , well you know . But she does help me bleed brakes so I can't complain .
Dan that engine bay looks great, and that Jackson Pollock abstract on the back of the door is really shaping up!
"Whats going on guys?" Pulling up a chair to watch more of the 55 station wagon videos. Oops. Now its the 68 Plymouth. Building quite a collection. Complete Car builds.
Great job Dan !
OK, Dan, I'm seeing you getting into learning something different. You're getting into the Mopar frame of mind AND, you're showing us how you did it to boot!!! I learned at work, that one cannot be afraid, or, shy away,, from learning something new....I think that's what kept me employed 40 years at a company that had layoffs every Friday....The Mopar guys are, no doubt,,,,,,grinning seeing you going after this Dodge. (PLYMOUTH!!!!!) Just say Mopar Dan, and you'll be good...
Sorry Danni, I never use gloves to re-pack bearings to this day...Yeah, it's a smell that stays with you! Difficult to handle raw food afterwards. (It always tastes like wheel bearing grease.) Meh, I'm still alive and kickin!!! Glad you used gloves Danni !!!!!!!
Wonderful job on a worthy car. Can't wait to see the 440 motor. I raced against a 440 once on the street. I had a Corvette 327 365 with a 373 gear, his 440 had such torque that i beat him to 100 MPH but as we got to the top end he slowly crawled ahead about 130 MPH. I was sick. They can pull a lot of car. All the best, Dennis in Virginia
Great video Dan! (ie): camera work/resolution, audio, lighting and narration!! Greg
Thanks for showing the process
Tighten suspension when car is at ride height so that bushings are at neutral twisting pressure. Especially lower control arm bushings. My 2 cents. Thanks for saving a mopar. Your right chevys are cheaper to build. Another great video. Set ride height as per factory spec to avoid bump steer..level car to 1/8 inch side to side. To level car lift one side and lower other same amount or vice versa. Hope this helps.
If you are going to convert to front disks, speedway motors sells a kit with everything but the lower ball joints (discs require bigger attaching bolts.) Otherwise look for a late 70's Cordoba or Magnum for junk yard parts.
Drum brakes and a big block ? Absolutely ! Brake early, steer with the foot feed.
that baby gone ride so nice when all is done
Awesome automotive repair workshop man from Australia in Adelaide
I love this build and that 60's Avacado green . Keep up the good job!!
I know not a thing about Mopars but it looks to be ok to me!!!!!!
Satellite, Super Bee thats the clone I would make. Looking Great Dan Entire car is coming along Nicely..440 here we come its going to Rip. Be a great weekend Cruiser.
Good stuff as usual, sorry I enjoy watching you struggle a bit because you help me know it's not just me. My current project is a mistreated 72 El Camino...
Your doing a great job on the front end keep up the great work God Bless you guys
Damn you got that old car looking good
Great video. Nice to see something different and learning is always good. Some how this will end up in one of my future novels. Thanks.
One thing for sure when you talked about the drum breaks and a Big block. I had a 68 GTX 440 with drums. All sorts a go and no woe. Very close to a total loss in the rear end wreck. Of course is was 18 then. Nuff said.
Whoa! Whoa! Is that Quebec Maple Coke!?!
You need to bondo that passenger side front fender so it looks as nice as the rest of the car
Coming along nicely
It looks as good as brand new. Real nice work. Thanks for the video. The rust on the bottom of the fender might get a lot worse it would be a shame if it did rust out so maybe a smidgen of primer and can of green paint smudged right there would keep it from rusting out. The car looks real nice and solid.
Dan a couple things. Antiseize really helps assembling this old iron. Also helps if you need to work on it later. Also on the Wagon to fix the tight gap on the bottom of the fenders add some shims under the rad support. You work on some pretty nasty stuff and do a great job. Keep the videos coming.
Good stuff Dan !! Thank you for sharing !! God bless you all !!!! Eddy
Looks real clean dan and you made look so easy , those front ends put up a bit of it sometimes nice work
I miss having that kind of energy. Good job kid. 82 projects and a job, wish I was half that good.
Your next Chevy project should be a Vega (in stock form) or a Chevette or an Aveo or a Cruze or a Spark or an Equinox (with the Chinese motor) just to name a few. That's why your next project should be a Chevy. Keep up the good work Danny boy!
FYI Dan. Torsion bars for a small block vs big block are different. If it was originally a 318 car, you may want to upgrade the torsion bars to 440 size. (You will run out of adjustment to get the front end high enough). Keep up the good work and videos!!
And yes, you need the clip on the back side of the torsion bar. Not likely but you wouldn’t want that bar to work it’s way out traveling 120mph on the freeway.
Awesome job Dan and Dani. I'd invest is some disc brakes as funds permit with that big block beast.
Nice job. The bottom of the fender needs a little green paint on it to preserve it.
Nice job Dan....I'm a chevy guy but I love dodge muscle cars as well. Here's a trick I use when changing out tie rods. I take a scrap 2X4 and screw another shorter scrap one on one end and place the old tie rod in the jig and use another scrap and screw it down completing the measuring jig. Adjust the new tie rod assembly and use the jig to get the same distance as the old one. Use it on the other side and change the measurement with the second tie rod in place. Hope this will help, my brother taught me this trick 30 years ago and I never have any trouble with keeping the front end square.
Clear as mud.
Don't worry about the stopping power of the drums on front. When I was a kid we always said "A hot rod is for going, not for slowing".
(Okay, maybe not the smartest philosophy, but we all survived. Lol)
Great job, great video Dan!!!!
Doing a great job gonna be a cool ride Jealous
Suggestion, good long fiber/boat trailer wheel bearing lube on the contact surfaces of the upper arm cam bolts and washers.
Stuck torsion bar tip.
Make sure ur good at the bar c clip, and the 5/8 torsion bar tensioner is backed out then loosen the lower arm nut and drive the arm and bar back.
Engine bay turned out nice
YES, you DO need the torsion bar retainer clip. It keeps the torsion bar from backing out. Short story: A customer who knew I was into old mopars was called by his neighbor and told his front end hit the ground after coming out of a pothole down the street from his house. He told my customer that he was sure the torsion box was rotted and he wasn't going to fix it, but he remembered him saying he knew a guy who worked on old mopars. My customer calls me the next day and says: All of the above and exactly where it is, that it I want it to send a flat bed to pick it up and he would bring me the title in a few days along with everything the guy had for the car. I send my buddy to grab it and he drops it in my yard. I am slammed, so I never got to the car to even look at it for a few weeks. He dropped the keys and a pile of parts and the title and tells me his buddy bought a new 4x4 Dodge PU truck. Another week or two go by and I finally start looking over the car to see what is good on it. Jesus, this car is in great shape everywhere!! It's a 1964 Sports Fury with a 383 and automatic and 8 3/4 rear end. In the console is a pile of receipts for everything done on the car for decades. Turns out the car only had in the low 70K miles and had never been on the road in the winter. I get my floor jack on the roll to the parking lot and lift her up and see the torsion bar has snapped in two!!! The thing fires right up and my buddy gets on the jack and guides me into the bay. Up she goes and the torsion boxes are perfect!! Under this car is gorgeous!!! So, i look on one of the receipts and call the old owner and tell him he needs to repair this car and keep it. I gave him a price to repair it with a new pair of t-bars and an alignment. He told me to keep it, but it wasn't right. He complained about having to tune the car up all the time and that it was killing him to drop it off and pay for the same thing over and over. So I told him I would make the car run well without the repetitive tune ups and if he didn't like it for any reason, I would buy it from him. I put an electronic distributor in it with a gold brain and a set of T-bars and an alignment. He came and looked under the car and I showed him everything he wasn't seeing. Turns out his old mechanic was telling him it wasn't going to be much longer before he'd be telling him it wasn't worth putting any more money into it.. Fucker was trying to steal his car!! I was his mechanic for years after that and the car was eventually handed down to his son.. Moral to the story: It was a PLYMOUTH!!!!!!! Hahahahahahahahaa......
Good content.
::Looking good, your doing a great job with it. Looking forward to seeing the big block go in.