It really depends on what you’re using the car for. Small block would have a 0.88, 383 an 0.90, and 440 0.925. The “police” 440 package had 0.98. Or you can just go out and buy Hotchkis 1.03s. But with drum fronts, he’s not planning on autocrossing.
@@bobbymuse7793 I was just speaking in generalities. Dan's not a Mopar guy and probably doesn't know about different diameter torsion bars. And I'm guessing that if he does change them it will be to the cheapest, easiest to get ones he can find locally.
@@UncleDonut66 gotcha. They were all about the cushy ride back then... like driving a water bed. I’m going to see how my 318 bars respond to my 383 swap. Might have to upgrade mine. Hot rodding is all about constant improvement.👍
@@bobbymuse7793 The Belvedere II convertible I bought a while back has a 400 in it. The torsion bars were still original. Problem was, it was originally a slant six car! Talk about a cushy ride!
The number of times my brain went, “Dan, this would be easier with both hands...” followed by you succeeding one handed, leaves me very impressed... nice work sir!
Watched Steve Dulcich press those bushings out of the control arm on Roadkill Garage. I think this job the final test to achieve Mopar monk status. Congratulations on reaching your final form Dan.
The good thing about the torsion bars they are easy to adjust for ride height and ride stiffness or softness where a coil spring you have to change the whole thing or cut pieces of the coils off mopats you just turn a bolt
Looks like you're doing just fine for the first time working with a Mopar suspension. Thought I'd mention a tip I learned from watching the Camo guys painting inside an aircraft, get a cheap roll of aluminum foil for quick masking anything you don't want painted. Pull off a sheet, crunch it around the part and you're done. No taping and it conforms to all shapes. Fast and easy.
Who out there wanted to watch Dan the whole 2 hours taking off the upper Ball Joint? Finally a task that took him the time it would take us. LOL. Instead of the 17 turns on Torque Rod. 23-25 should hold your big block. Not a matter of bigger rod. It's the amount of turns that set drive height n load.
Sheesh.... my fingers are pathetic but you know what meant. I was going to add that when u turn out the upper ball joints, do it before you drop the spindle. This way the upper control arm doesn’t flop up and down with the pressure your putting on them with the long wrench. Rarely needed heat after I found this hack.
If the vise-grips left nicks in the torsion bars polish them out, they can cause the bar to break. 50 some years ago I made a u shaped piece of 3/8" plate that went over the bar with a bolt to clamp it and hammered on that to pull them out. It's similar to the factory tool.
Yeah that looked like quite the pain in the arss Dan. I'm glad it was you and not me. A suspension like that, would make me go back to my Chevy, real quick. I would've needed to turn the camera off, for some swearing and throwing tools, time. Lol. Thanks for entertaining us. Looking forward to the next one.
Dan absolutely love your honesty done it or not doesn't matter you always get it done very impressed. one things for sure you're not afraid to dive into it keep up the good work.
Nice job. Chryslers are different. Remember working on my Mom's 70 Valiant. Everything is just a little different. Some good, some bad. But different. Look forward to the next video. You and Dani stay safe.
I really you would have asked some of us Mopar guys what we think you should have done. We have some great tricks that really don't cost much, but make huge improvements to handling and longevity. I am sure you are a few days ahead of this, so it's too late now, but there are plates made to tighten up and strengthen the lower control arms. Also a simple notch that needs to be cut into the K-member for a 7 quart pan and also some great tricks for making the K-member a ton stronger and a place to look on the K-member for cracks at the steering box and how to strengthen that area as well. Most of this can be done for the cost of welding with and a few washers. For the eccentric bolts in the UCA's, replace them. On the upper A-arms, wire wheel inside the BJ cup and use copper anti-seize when putting the BJ back in. If you realllllly want tighter control of the car, replace all your bushings with polyurethane. Just know it will make the ride a little harsh, but accurate. Can do the same for the rear springs...
Thanks Dan. Nice work. There is a cool modification you can do to strengthen the lower control arms. US Car Tools sells a kit. Parts in the kit are simple and weld to the control arms.
Holy shit, bars everywhere on that. The lower ball joint/steering arm combo was neat. I felt your pain on that upper A arm bolt.. Love the dope yellow flannel, thanks for sharing!
you can buy them upper control arm bolts at the parts store, i know here in the USA advanced auto has them in stock i think its 1962 thro 1974 a b e bodys are the same, ebay also has them torison bars will be ok might need a few more turns,
Time for a media blast cabinet. Throw Mur in the engine bay for paint polishing. Please, more Mur! Might want to get in contact with Tony at Uncle Tony’s Garage for alignment & castor, camber adjustments after front end assembly. Tony’s a highly knowledgeable Mopar fanatic
Dan I agree with David Rich get big block torsion bars. i would also check the other ends of the torsion bars .I have seen them rust out and break loose.
Man that car looks good underneath Found a diamond in the rough there. 2 things...I know it’s been mentioned already but big block torsion bars are def a good idea. If you are gonna use the ones you have. Check for nicks where you vice gripped then sand any edges down otherwise the bar will break. ask me how I know. Haha. Losing a torsion bar on the road is no fun. Seriously puckering experience One other thing, especially with a big block get the drivers side Schumacher Engine mount. parts store mounts will Likely break the first time you light the tires up. Keep up the good work man! Really enjoying this build.
I did a lot of drum brake jobs way back when. We had a drum lathe, and brake drums were turned to get them smooth and square (up to a certain oversize limit, at which point a new drum was called for). If the drums are worn or have been turned, or you turn them oversize, it's good to arc the linings to match the drums. We had a specific machine in our shop just for that to match the shoes to the drum. Don't know if anybody does that anymore, but it really helped braking performance. Otherwise, if you can find them, new drums might be a good idea.
Yeah Dan, we coil spring guys diving in to torsion bars is a whole different way of doing things. The 69 Charger with a 318 my dad bought for my brother to drive when he wrecked his 70 Charger, actually handled quite well. I was surprised at how flat it cornered, not as good as my 79 Trans Am or 70 GTO, but rather well. Pontiac's have bigger swaybars and heavier spring rates than the rest of GM vehicles, well before 1980 anyway. I figured the Charger would drive like an Impala or Chevelle, wallowing in corners like a boat, but it turned flat.. now the drum brakes were absolute crap, the thing would barely stop, and after my brother messed with them one would lock up long before the rest of them. He isn't very good at working on things.. and that is how our younger brother ended up wrecking that poor 69 Charger. You want to price an expensive front end, look at 69 Charger parts sometime. 72 GTO parts are close in price(but they are all used, no repops made), but the Charger is the most expensive stuff I have seen yet.
That's just like my 71 Charger. When I switched from 318 to 440 the front was pretty soft with the smallblock tosion bars in it. I had them cranked all the way up
I will never have to do what you did on taking the suspension apart still I thought that was one of your best videos . Don't forget to fix the front fender
Good job Dan! When I owned my 68 Satellite Sport, I never had to do front end work, so I am no help to you. It should steer straight once done! I am sure someone else will benefit from your posting as I imagine not too many videos on these being done.
Really impressed at how you wrestled out the passenger side control arm. No small feat one handed while keeping the whole operation in frame with a camera in the other hand!
You may want to take a really close look at the mounting bracket that attaches the upper control arms to the body. A lot of these in the "rust belt" had a tendency to fracture whenever the upper ball joints were removed. I had this happen quite a few years ago.
The torsion bar adjustment bolts are used to change the ride height of the car. I like square, so I put front and rear the same. Lots of folks lower the tension to rake the car. Designed to be adjusted, not fixed at x turns.
That upper control arm mounting bolt that got hammered over a bit should still be available from roc, or Napa They are the adjustment cams for the alignment. New ones will make your alignment guy happy!
A few more "old timer" tips - Check backing plates and pivot pin for wear. If you have grooves, weld and grind them smooth and flat if you don't get new ones. Check and clean out the wheel cylinders. If they're pitted, best to replace. Light scoring can be fixed with a wheel cylinder hone. If you hone, get kits with new springs, rubber pucks and dust covers (assuming the kits are still available). The shoes with longer pads go on the "trailing" (toward rear of car) side - it's easy to get them reversed when reassembling. Flush out master cylinder and lines with new fluid. Always use a new unopened bottle of fluid. Old fluid gets moisture in it over time, which is why wheel cylinders get pitted and steel brake lines fail. New bearing seals are a good idea to keep leaking grease from ruining things. After reassembly, tighten brakes 'til solid and wheel doesn't turn, then back off the star nut equally at all 4 wheels until wheels turn with just minimal brake contact. You need to push in on the self adjuster to allow start wheel to back off, which is why there are 2 slots in the backing plates.
@@tomhutchins1046 I agree that disc brakes are better than drums. However, this car appears to have a single piston master cylinder without power assist or ABS. With a good brake job, the drums should work good enough to lock up the wheels in a panic stop. The key is to get all drums equally rebuilt and adjusted so that wheels on both sides brake equally, and front wheels lock up slightly before back. Drums fade worse when hot or wet, and need a lot more leg force, but the driver can compensate for that. Before ABS, drivers were also taught to "pump" the pedal if wheels were skidding during braking. Boy I'm getting old.
@@62Ironhead i dont know were to start? LOL one most car enthusiast's will not want a single master. Two drums are self energizing they will lock up unpredictably . disks are smooth and progressive. Three he lives in canada you dont want unpredictable brakes on snow and ice. Four show me a race car with power brakes? If the master is sized well it will have a little more travel and stop very well. Five Disks are much easier to service and are self adjusting. Drums self adjusters are shaky at best. Six there is a saying drums will stop you ONCE. seven wet or frozen drums in the snow? Eight You dont pump the brakes just a smooth application sensing max tire grip works well. Nine Four wheel disks with no power set up correctly would be best for performance and practicality and if you lose a motor you still have brakes ten Disk brakes are much cheaper to maintain and get consistent performance Time to step up into the late 60's? Remember we have these things called freeways now? Not 35mph farm roads? I could keep going?
@@62Ironhead Oh and as i mentioned in another comment late 70'd cordova spindles and brakes bolt right on just use the proportioning valve and master from the same car
@@tomhutchins1046 I agree that discs are better than drums. My comments were intended only to get the drum brakes safely operating to original performance level. I've blown a brake line on a single master cylinder car before, and it's no fun when the pedal goes to the floor. It appeared to me that Dan's intent was to replace or repair worn out suspension and brakes just back to original as economically as possible, having not yet decided on the ultimate use for the vehicle. If it were my vehicle, and I was planning to drive it a lot, I'd say your suggestion for the later model cordova brakes is a good one.
Looking good Dan. I'd satin clear the car the way it is. Gonna be a nice hot rod. To bad your getting a low compression 440.but it should run pretty good. Motor home motors are low compression.
Hey Dan!! I'm not sure if you need a heavier torsion bar for the heavier engine. If you over tighten the torsion bar to compensate, the front of the car might get bouncy...The Mopar guys will know best.... Oh, hi Mur!
it was a V8 that came out of it he should be fine with those bars if it was a slant 6 car then it would be better to get the bigger bars but those should be fine he could go to the BB bars if he wanted but those should work
@@79tazman ok. I wasn't sure...Figured I'd mention it to see what the right answer is. I know there are torsion bars just for the lighter lazy 6...Thanks for your reply...
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I suggest you get your hands on some big block torsion bars.
It really depends on what you’re using the car for. Small block would have a 0.88, 383 an 0.90, and 440 0.925. The “police” 440 package had 0.98. Or you can just go out and buy Hotchkis 1.03s. But with drum fronts, he’s not planning on autocrossing.
@@bobbymuse7793 I was just speaking in generalities. Dan's not a Mopar guy and probably doesn't know about different diameter torsion bars. And I'm guessing that if he does change them it will be to the cheapest, easiest to get ones he can find locally.
@@UncleDonut66 gotcha. They were all about the cushy ride back then... like driving a water bed.
I’m going to see how my 318 bars respond to my 383 swap. Might have to upgrade mine. Hot rodding is all about constant improvement.👍
And not being a “dodge” guy it might be wise to tell him they are left and right also in case he takes them out
@@bobbymuse7793 The Belvedere II convertible I bought a while back has a 400 in it. The torsion bars were still original. Problem was, it was originally a slant six car! Talk about a cushy ride!
The number of times my brain went, “Dan, this would be easier with both hands...” followed by you succeeding one handed, leaves me very impressed... nice work sir!
Even used his foot a couple times.
refreshing change of pace very few mopar left rust free like that around here
It wasn’t so rust free. Dan put new quarters in it.
@@bumpsidegarage3002 In Canada thats a Gem, At that age it normally would have missing the lower 5" of the body LOL
You should have put disks up front...easy change from a diplomat or cordoba...just saying my friend... love the car and keep up the amazing work!!
Dillon?
I have a 64 300 with 77? (been years) Cordova spindles proportioning valve and master works great.
So glad to hear you say: "and then paint it all green" when referring to under the hood. Keep on keeping-on!
As an old carpenter but car lover, I truly enjoy watching you with your mechanical skills
Yep..Happy St Paddy's Day!! n Big Green Machine to start out with..looks like she's turning into a fun thing to work on..have fun n thanks
Watched Steve Dulcich press those bushings out of the control arm on Roadkill Garage. I think this job the final test to achieve Mopar monk status. Congratulations on reaching your final form Dan.
You are killing it.
You deserve a bihr sponsor of a garage building company and install infront of the little workshop .
The good thing about the torsion bars they are easy to adjust for ride height and ride stiffness or softness where a coil spring you have to change the whole thing or cut pieces of the coils off mopats you just turn a bolt
You can adjust the ride height but need to change the bars for stiffness. much easier to change coils
After breaking my second ratchet using a cheater bar I broke down and bought a proper breaker bar. Saved me a few trips back to Sears.
👍👍
Plus 1 on the press. Paid for itself a 100 times over since I got mine. Nice works as always.
Looks like you're doing just fine for the first time working with a Mopar suspension. Thought I'd mention a tip I learned from watching the Camo guys painting inside an aircraft, get a cheap roll of aluminum foil for quick masking anything you don't want painted. Pull off a sheet, crunch it around the part and you're done. No taping and it conforms to all shapes. Fast and easy.
Who out there wanted to watch Dan the whole 2 hours taking off the upper Ball Joint? Finally a task that took him the time it would take us. LOL. Instead of the 17 turns on Torque Rod. 23-25 should hold your big block. Not a matter of bigger rod. It's the amount of turns that set drive height n load.
Thanks man! Should b good
He’s front ends are so simple once you’ve done one. They did a good job with a simple design. God job Dan!
Sheesh.... my fingers are pathetic but you know what meant. I was going to add that when u turn out the upper ball joints, do it before you drop the spindle. This way the upper control arm doesn’t flop up and down with the pressure your putting on them with the long wrench. Rarely needed heat after I found this hack.
Haha yeah. First time is the hardest
If the vise-grips left nicks in the torsion bars polish them out, they can cause the bar to break. 50 some years ago I made a u shaped piece of 3/8" plate that went over the bar with a bolt to clamp it and hammered on that to pull them out. It's similar to the factory tool.
Its going to be golden Dani
Awesome job man. There's nothing fun or glamorous about taking apart 60's or 70's factory suspension. Or 50's or 80's or any of it really.
If ur like me, then it’s times like this that we wish we didn’t know ANYTHING about cars. Good job Dan.
I've seen a lot of guys weld plates to the underside of the lower control arms to box them and stiffen them up.
You can weld stiffener plates to the lower control arms
Graveyardcars best mopar knowledge
Great job, a real battle with old worn parts
Yeah that looked like quite the pain in the arss Dan. I'm glad it was you and not me. A suspension like that, would make me go back to my Chevy, real quick. I would've needed to turn the camera off, for some swearing and throwing tools, time. Lol. Thanks for entertaining us. Looking forward to the next one.
Coming along never done a Mopar myself so it was good to watch!!!
I realize you're done now but, putting new 1 1/8" torsion bars really improves the handling on one of them old death traps. Maybe down the road
Rolling death trap! 😂😂😂
I like the body work and painting videos, almost my favorites to watch.
Perfect timing. I'm needing to take the front suspension out of my 1970 Barracuda. Thanks for the tutorial.
Sweet!
Uncle Tony's garage is great resource for your mopar questions.
Hes a legend
Dan absolutely love your honesty done it or not doesn't matter you always get it done very impressed. one things for sure you're not afraid to dive into it keep up the good work.
Torsion bar removal A+. A lot of people do not remove the circle clip at the back, then bang away till something brakes.
I recommend looking into getting big block torsion bars. If you don't the front end will be way too low.
You can adjust the torsion bar to adjust you ride hight. Good job. Love your channel
Nice job. Chryslers are different. Remember working on my Mom's 70 Valiant. Everything is just a little different. Some good, some bad. But different. Look forward to the next video. You and Dani stay safe.
I really you would have asked some of us Mopar guys what we think you should have done. We have some great tricks that really don't cost much, but make huge improvements to handling and longevity. I am sure you are a few days ahead of this, so it's too late now, but there are plates made to tighten up and strengthen the lower control arms. Also a simple notch that needs to be cut into the K-member for a 7 quart pan and also some great tricks for making the K-member a ton stronger and a place to look on the K-member for cracks at the steering box and how to strengthen that area as well. Most of this can be done for the cost of welding with and a few washers. For the eccentric bolts in the UCA's, replace them. On the upper A-arms, wire wheel inside the BJ cup and use copper anti-seize when putting the BJ back in. If you realllllly want tighter control of the car, replace all your bushings with polyurethane. Just know it will make the ride a little harsh, but accurate. Can do the same for the rear springs...
The Mopar is really coming along !!... it will be an Awesome car again!!
Good job! make sure you set the spindle height at half travel (ride Height) before you tighten everything up (to prevent premature bushing failures)
There are larger torsion bars for big blocks - learned on junkerup - great job Dan
I hope someday to get a fridge magnet with a picture of "Dan's Plymouth Built With Rock Auto Parts" in my Rock Auto box
That would be sweet!
Nice work man-handling that whole brake shoe assembly! That made my wrist hurt lol.
This guy and wifey just one man band that does more work. Than goonzsquads
Ha ha... Looks like you are having fun. When the Engine comes... You will be Ready. Thanks for Sharing... Brother
A real good idea.... spot weld those upper ball joints after install. Ive seen them loosen up!
Thanks Dan. Nice work. There is a cool modification you can do to strengthen the lower control arms. US Car Tools sells a kit. Parts in the kit are simple and weld to the control arms.
Happy st. Patrick’s Day Dan ! 🍀 🇺🇸
Holy shit, bars everywhere on that. The lower ball joint/steering arm combo was neat.
I felt your pain on that upper A arm bolt..
Love the dope yellow flannel, thanks for sharing!
you can buy them upper control arm bolts at the parts store, i know here in the USA advanced auto has them in stock i think its 1962 thro 1974 a b e bodys are the same, ebay also has them torison bars will be ok might need a few more turns,
Great stuff Dan !! I appreciate you taking the time to share with us !!! Be safe my friend and God bless you all !!!!! Eddy
Thanks buddy
Great job explaining what you are doing 🍀👍
Time for a media blast cabinet.
Throw Mur in the engine bay for paint polishing. Please, more Mur!
Might want to get in contact with Tony at Uncle Tony’s Garage for alignment & castor, camber adjustments after front end assembly. Tony’s a highly knowledgeable Mopar fanatic
Yrah he's a genie
Dan I agree with David Rich get big block torsion bars. i would also check the other ends of the torsion bars .I have seen them rust out and break loose.
Dan u have plenty of tools l know every old car is a challenge we always get there. Fun times lol
Man that car looks good underneath
Found a diamond in the rough there.
2 things...I know it’s been mentioned already but big block torsion bars are def a good idea. If you are gonna use the ones you have. Check for nicks where you vice gripped then sand any edges down otherwise the bar will break. ask me how I know. Haha. Losing a torsion bar on the road is no fun. Seriously puckering experience
One other thing, especially with a big block get the drivers side Schumacher
Engine mount. parts store mounts will
Likely break the first time you light the tires up. Keep up the good work man!
Really enjoying this build.
You’re a cowboy bro. Good for you👍
I did a lot of drum brake jobs way back when. We had a drum lathe, and brake drums were turned to get them smooth and square (up to a certain oversize limit, at which point a new drum was called for). If the drums are worn or have been turned, or you turn them oversize, it's good to arc the linings to match the drums. We had a specific machine in our shop just for that to match the shoes to the drum. Don't know if anybody does that anymore, but it really helped braking performance. Otherwise, if you can find them, new drums might be a good idea.
Make a bracket to bolt to the bumper bracket mounts, use your hoist to lift nose of the car. Install the k-frame and motor as an assembly on a dolly.
Yeah Dan, we coil spring guys diving in to torsion bars is a whole different way of doing things. The 69 Charger with a 318 my dad bought for my brother to drive when he wrecked his 70 Charger, actually handled quite well. I was surprised at how flat it cornered, not as good as my 79 Trans Am or 70 GTO, but rather well. Pontiac's have bigger swaybars and heavier spring rates than the rest of GM vehicles, well before 1980 anyway. I figured the Charger would drive like an Impala or Chevelle, wallowing in corners like a boat, but it turned flat.. now the drum brakes were absolute crap, the thing would barely stop, and after my brother messed with them one would lock up long before the rest of them. He isn't very good at working on things.. and that is how our younger brother ended up wrecking that poor 69 Charger. You want to price an expensive front end, look at 69 Charger parts sometime. 72 GTO parts are close in price(but they are all used, no repops made), but the Charger is the most expensive stuff I have seen yet.
Thanks for sharing all your hard work your friend from B.C Rob 🇨🇦 😎✌
Very interesting how that front suspension works. I also like your tip for pressing out bushings! A lot better than trying to find a giant socket!
Better keep this one for awhile, lotta hard work, gotta enjoy it for your rewards.
Glad you were successful with the washer welding. It didn’t work for me, but I only tried it with a single washer. Good tip on the double washer.
That's just like my 71 Charger. When I switched from 318 to 440 the front was pretty soft with the smallblock tosion bars in it. I had them cranked all the way up
Big bottle of tylenol and a big hammer!!!👍👍
Thanks for the instructional video today, I "lernt" a few things. Appreciated. You're learning Mopar and so am I
The eccentric bolts for Chrysler upper control arms used to be available from Moog and TRW
Had the same frozen bolt in bushing on a rear leaf spring. I felt your pain...
Never tire of the videos! As always nice work.
Thanks Shaun!
While you're at it, don't forget to replace that sway bar with one for a big block car, such as a Roadrunner! 👌👍
Outstanding, this is one of your best educational videos.
I try haha
I will never have to do what you did on taking the suspension apart still I thought that was one of your best videos . Don't forget to fix the front fender
Thanks! Means alot
Very informative if I ever do a 60's dodge ,I'd like to do a 67 dart if I could find one
Oh great job by the way !
Man that's alot of work.But,It will be worth it all..Great job Dan!
Thank God for those wonderful smoke wrenches.
Good job Dan! When I owned my 68 Satellite Sport, I never had to do front end work, so I am no help to you. It should steer straight once done! I am sure someone else will benefit from your posting as I imagine not too many videos on these being done.
Yeah. Hopefully it can help a few people
Really impressed at how you wrestled out the passenger side control arm. No small feat one handed while keeping the whole operation in frame with a camera in the other hand!
Haha it was a fluke
You painting the suspension stuff black just made the Mopar people cringe lol love you guys keep the videos coming 👍
Red oxide primer then paint will double the life
Dang, Dude! That paint seems to be matching great in the engine bay..... your Awesome!
Engine bay looks decent , cleaned up nice !👍
Itll get a little better
You may want to take a really close look at the mounting bracket that attaches the upper control arms to the body. A lot of these in the "rust belt" had a tendency to fracture whenever the upper ball joints were removed. I had this happen quite a few years ago.
I’ll have to remember that method for removing bushings. That was slick. I always struggle with them.
The torsion bar adjustment bolts are used to change the ride height of the car. I like square, so I put front and rear the same. Lots of folks lower the tension to rake the car. Designed to be adjusted, not fixed at x turns.
Yeah jist counted to put me in the ballpark
it seems like your not afraid of taking anything apart .
I think your doing great job Dan
That upper control arm mounting bolt that got hammered over a bit should still be available from roc, or Napa They are the adjustment cams for the alignment. New ones will make your alignment guy happy!
Yup! I grabbed a new kit for install
love the way you explain things. thanks for all theses videos.
A few more "old timer" tips - Check backing plates and pivot pin for wear. If you have grooves, weld and grind them smooth and flat if you don't get new ones. Check and clean out the wheel cylinders. If they're pitted, best to replace. Light scoring can be fixed with a wheel cylinder hone. If you hone, get kits with new springs, rubber pucks and dust covers (assuming the kits are still available). The shoes with longer pads go on the "trailing" (toward rear of car) side - it's easy to get them reversed when reassembling. Flush out master cylinder and lines with new fluid. Always use a new unopened bottle of fluid. Old fluid gets moisture in it over time, which is why wheel cylinders get pitted and steel brake lines fail. New bearing seals are a good idea to keep leaking grease from ruining things. After reassembly, tighten brakes 'til solid and wheel doesn't turn, then back off the star nut equally at all 4 wheels until wheels turn with just minimal brake contact. You need to push in on the self adjuster to allow start wheel to back off, which is why there are 2 slots in the backing plates.
Or use them for anchor's and convert to disk
@@tomhutchins1046 I agree that disc brakes are better than drums. However, this car appears to have a single piston master cylinder without power assist or ABS. With a good brake job, the drums should work good enough to lock up the wheels in a panic stop. The key is to get all drums equally rebuilt and adjusted so that wheels on both sides brake equally, and front wheels lock up slightly before back. Drums fade worse when hot or wet, and need a lot more leg force, but the driver can compensate for that. Before ABS, drivers were also taught to "pump" the pedal if wheels were skidding during braking. Boy I'm getting old.
@@62Ironhead i dont know were to start? LOL
one most car enthusiast's will not want a single master.
Two drums are self energizing they will lock up unpredictably . disks are smooth and progressive.
Three he lives in canada you dont want unpredictable brakes on snow and ice.
Four show me a race car with power brakes? If the master is sized well it will have a little more travel and stop very well.
Five Disks are much easier to service and are self adjusting. Drums self adjusters are shaky at best.
Six there is a saying drums will stop you ONCE.
seven wet or frozen drums in the snow?
Eight You dont pump the brakes just a smooth application sensing max tire grip works well.
Nine Four wheel disks with no power set up correctly would be best for performance and practicality and if you lose a motor you still have brakes
ten Disk brakes are much cheaper to maintain and get consistent performance
Time to step up into the late 60's? Remember we have these things called freeways now? Not 35mph farm roads?
I could keep going?
@@62Ironhead Oh and as i mentioned in another comment late 70'd cordova spindles and brakes bolt right on just use the proportioning valve and master from the same car
@@tomhutchins1046 I agree that discs are better than drums. My comments were intended only to get the drum brakes safely operating to original performance level. I've blown a brake line on a single master cylinder car before, and it's no fun when the pedal goes to the floor. It appeared to me that Dan's intent was to replace or repair worn out suspension and brakes just back to original as economically as possible, having not yet decided on the ultimate use for the vehicle. If it were my vehicle, and I was planning to drive it a lot, I'd say your suggestion for the later model cordova brakes is a good one.
Whack the torsion bar in the middle to loosen it up in the holes
You earned extra points on this job.
Thabks chief!
Lots of work to get it apart but it's looking good and will drive like an new car.
A cool thing about that lower control arm is that you can adjust ride height. If you want the front to sit lower, just adjust the bolt.
Yeah its pretty slick
Looking good Dan. I'd satin clear the car the way it is. Gonna be a nice hot rod. To bad your getting a low compression 440.but it should run pretty good. Motor home motors are low compression.
You can buy the upper control arm bushings and the eccentric bolts and washers probably around 100 bucks at napa,carquest or rock auto
Lots of work!! It will payoff in the end, for sure. Two thumbs up!! Cheers!!
Hey Dan!!
I'm not sure if you need a heavier torsion bar for the heavier engine. If you over tighten the torsion bar to compensate, the front of the car might get bouncy...The Mopar guys will know best....
Oh, hi Mur!
it was a V8 that came out of it he should be fine with those bars if it was a slant 6 car then it would be better to get the bigger bars but those should be fine he could go to the BB bars if he wanted but those should work
@@79tazman ok. I wasn't sure...Figured I'd mention it to see what the right answer is. I know there are torsion bars just for the lighter lazy 6...Thanks for your reply...
The cool thing about that set up is that you can adjust your ride height. To an extent..
We always called those strut rods, with their strut rod bushings.
I would gladly give up my good looks to be smart like you are.
Haha
Dropped a like for the yellow/ black flannel. 👍
Haha thanks
Great work so far lovin it
Hi from Australia 👍👍👍
if you want to go disc they are easy to find most any a,b,e body will work as long as they have the 4 1/2 bolt circle
Remove the front subframe clean, blast and paint it! You’re almost there!