Thanks for the video. I just did this PM. I decided to remove the rear floor liner, and it made access to the front pkugs/coils much easier. I could reach around the front of the exhaust manifold for access.
Coils too? I didn’t do that but might have to in the future. I noticed my car ran better with new plugs as well. What made you do the coils as well? Just to get ahead of things?
@@JordanPayneLV I was up on 47,000 miles so i figured if I'm going to take the wheels off, remove the wheel well shields, i might as well replace the coils while I'm at it. it run so much better, it was totally worth. next project , fuel injectors and AOS.
Just changed my plugs a few days ago. Took me about 1.5 hrs. The hardest one was the middle on the drivers side because the cat is in the way. The front left was easy, I could get my hand in there. It helps to remove the front wheel liner on the drivers side. I used a bunch of extensions and a universal, working on the outside of the suspension in the wheel well. The hardest thing was getting a grip on the coils to pop them off. If you still have the original coils, spend the money to replace them with the updated versions. Two of my originals (2014 Cayman S) went bad within the first 20K miles and is a known issue. You don't need anti-seize. My plugs had 5 years and a ton of track days on them and they came out effortlessly. It also makes the threads sticky and will make getting the plugs out in a few years much harder when it is gummed up.
btw i reccomend a borescope and pressure test. These engine do not have bore scoring or headgasket issues but if you have the tools it's great peace of mind for a long term owner.
@@MowSow possibly, but the 987.2 engine was a big redesign to avoid bore scoring etc, it mainly occurs in low mileage engines which haven’t been run much.
@@JordanPayneLV it's possible to calculate but it requires you to know the angle of the shafts to each other and the current orientation of the u-joint. So in reality, the better rule of thumb is to never use a u-joint with a torque wrench haha. Especially in the case of an extreme angle (something greater than 15 degrees), it's better to use the "snug + 1/2 turn" or whatever is recommended. This is just what I remember from school, so I could be wrong.
Yeah, it probably is a little bit, but that’s pretty normal for V-bands as the metal expands and contracts. when it’s cold, it’s not as sealed. So on cold start soot may sneak by
I'm not a mechanic by any means, but I have good mechanical sense. I replaced the plugs on my 987.2 in under 2 hours for all 6 plugs on my first time ever doing a plug change. Definitely a DIY job to save around $1000.
Don’t do it. It will mess up the torque value & potentially strip the thread. That’s why you have to change them every 4 years, no matter what mileage. Don’t do it on classics either!
I've been using anti-seize on all spark plugs I replace, for at least 25 years, and have never had a problem. In fact, it's the plugs that don't have it that give problems. Note too, how little anti-seize Jordan has used - no way that is going to cause any problems. As always, though, your results may vary.
The main reason is that the threads are the ground for the spark plugs to the heads, anything reducing electrical conductivity will cause power reduction and misfire. That’s why Porsche says: NO ANTI SEUZE on the threads
The No is a safe answer from Porsche. If you know what you’re doing antiseize will do you good. It is the torque you have to watch out. Jordan reduced the torque value to 20ftlb that compensated the reduced friction with the antiseize.
NEVER put anti seize on spark plugs, even Porsche service manual says that. The reason: THREADS are the ground for the spark plug to the engine heads, anything that reduces electrical conductivity will cause reduction in power and misfire That’s a big mistake 2nd reason, reduction of torque value during tightening
@@JordanPayneLV Do you know how to do it? is it difficult? can I DIY this or must I take it to the dealer? I tried to look for any video but I don't think there's anybody that did throttle body cleaning for specifically 981
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for the video. I just did this PM. I decided to remove the rear floor liner, and it made access to the front pkugs/coils much easier. I could reach around the front of the exhaust manifold for access.
Good idea!
i changed my plugs and coils out a couple of weeks ago. the car runs much better and it took me nearly all day.
Coils too? I didn’t do that but might have to in the future. I noticed my car ran better with new plugs as well. What made you do the coils as well? Just to get ahead of things?
@@JordanPayneLV I was up on 47,000 miles so i figured if I'm going to take the wheels off, remove the wheel well shields, i might as well replace the coils while I'm at it. it run so much better, it was totally worth. next project , fuel injectors and AOS.
@@ThatCaymanGuy nice! Keep it going and the car will run forever :)
best video on this, nice camera work
Thanks man, I appreciate it 👌🏻
Amazing job❤
Great videos man I just seen the oil change the k&N air filters and this video in a row👍
Glad you enjoyed them, thanks for watching!
Just changed my plugs a few days ago. Took me about 1.5 hrs. The hardest one was the middle on the drivers side because the cat is in the way. The front left was easy, I could get my hand in there. It helps to remove the front wheel liner on the drivers side. I used a bunch of extensions and a universal, working on the outside of the suspension in the wheel well. The hardest thing was getting a grip on the coils to pop them off. If you still have the original coils, spend the money to replace them with the updated versions. Two of my originals (2014 Cayman S) went bad within the first 20K miles and is a known issue. You don't need anti-seize. My plugs had 5 years and a ton of track days on them and they came out effortlessly. It also makes the threads sticky and will make getting the plugs out in a few years much harder when it is gummed up.
Hello, do you have a video on how to clean the throttle body for a 981?
Danke für dieses Video.
btw i reccomend a borescope and pressure test. These engine do not have bore scoring or headgasket issues but if you have the tools it's great peace of mind for a long term owner.
987.2 S will develop bore score the same way as .1 engines .. it’s only a matter of time as they are newer
@@MowSow possibly, but the 987.2 engine was a big redesign to avoid bore scoring etc, it mainly occurs in low mileage engines which haven’t been run much.
Just a heads up, if you want to use a torque wrench with a u-joint, you have to compensate for the angle
How do you properly do that?
@@JordanPayneLV it's possible to calculate but it requires you to know the angle of the shafts to each other and the current orientation of the u-joint. So in reality, the better rule of thumb is to never use a u-joint with a torque wrench haha. Especially in the case of an extreme angle (something greater than 15 degrees), it's better to use the "snug + 1/2 turn" or whatever is recommended. This is just what I remember from school, so I could be wrong.
@@coreybryan3668 thanks for the info, makes sense!
Grate, thank you very much… well done 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
@2:06, does that look like the exhaust gas is leaking at the connection in between the cat and muffler.
Yeah, it probably is a little bit, but that’s pretty normal for V-bands as the metal expands and contracts. when it’s cold, it’s not as sealed. So on cold start soot may sneak by
Good Job Dude. :)
Thanks man :)
Nice Job! Thanks
I'm not a mechanic by any means, but I have good mechanical sense. I replaced the plugs on my 987.2 in under 2 hours for all 6 plugs on my first time ever doing a plug change. Definitely a DIY job to save around $1000.
my 4th coil is done. Do I have to swap 6 of them at the same time but now the rest look good?
You should swap all 6 if you do one
You must never put anything on the threads , the heat they are subject to will cause the anti seize to seize them in.
Source? I haven’t read that anywhere, and it’s common practice to do so on classic cars
Don’t do it. It will mess up the torque value & potentially strip the thread. That’s why you have to change them every 4 years, no matter what mileage. Don’t do it on classics either!
I've been using anti-seize on all spark plugs I replace, for at least 25 years, and have never had a problem. In fact, it's the plugs that don't have it that give problems. Note too, how little anti-seize Jordan has used - no way that is going to cause any problems. As always, though, your results may vary.
ruclips.net/video/xZ-KOL4gZzw/видео.html
The main reason is that the threads are the ground for the spark plugs to the heads, anything reducing electrical conductivity will cause power reduction and misfire. That’s why Porsche says: NO ANTI SEUZE on the threads
Could you tell me the part number? Thank you
Here it is 👌🏻
www.suncoastparts.com/product/PK99917015190.html
Anti seize is a no no per Porsche.
Do we know why though?
@@JordanPayneLV I think it has something to do with actually causing the plugs to seize to the aluminum block.
The No is a safe answer from Porsche. If you know what you’re doing antiseize will do you good. It is the torque you have to watch out. Jordan reduced the torque value to 20ftlb that compensated the reduced friction with the antiseize.
@@JordanPayneLV as above , torque values , the wrong stuff could make things a lot worse and the electrical insulating propertie etc.
NEVER put anti seize on spark plugs, even Porsche service manual says that.
The reason: THREADS are the ground for the spark plug to the engine heads, anything that reduces electrical conductivity will cause reduction in power and misfire
That’s a big mistake
2nd reason, reduction of torque value during tightening
No misfiring or grounding issues so far with my car, but that makes sense, thanks for the additional insight for the viewers
Thank you so much for this video
Thanks for watching man 🙏🏻
Hello, do you have a video on how to clean the throttle body for a 981?
I don’t! Sorry 😞
@@JordanPayneLV Do you know how to do it? is it difficult? can I DIY this or must I take it to the dealer? I tried to look for any video but I don't think there's anybody that did throttle body cleaning for specifically 981
@@GamePois0n take it to an Indy shop, sorry I don’t know :/
@@JordanPayneLV alright thank you!