Excellent job,,,,,,,,replaced the distributor, wires, spark plugs, sensors, pvc valve, and the darn code P0301 still comes on.... saw your video and ended up being a cracked gasket..the car has 365000 miles and it runs just like when I bought new....you are the best Eric...keep up the good work....
Let me just say that I love you. This is one of the only how-to videos on removing Honda intake manifolds. Of those few, this is the only intelligent tutorial. Thank you for doing these videos for us.
you lucky man got that gasket removed easy, mine 99 CR-V took me two days: day and night just to remove 67 percent of stuck old gasket on the engine surface like welded there and the gasket was hard lik concrete, I don't know how, I used 7 blades, carbon scrapper, even sharp wood scrapper, I had to go easy and slowly, so I do t damage the aluminum casting engine surface, I almost gave up, I thought I will never clean it up while the engine on the car without damaging the engine surface. but thanks God I did it finally not 100 percent but close, and installed the gasket and tighten the nut and bolts according the right sequence and no vacuum leak and the engine now running like new, engine RPM now normal, transmission bad or hard shifting gone, low RPM on while stopping hard, and engine RPM goes down to almost zero when start the car are all gone. I couldn't believe how many issues can a leaky intake gasket cause to car operation, and you will never find out, because there was no checkn engine light.
Thank you for taking the time to show and explain all this. We have a 1996 D16Y8 Vti-E here in Thailand at my partners family home (we’re here on holiday from Australia). I’ve finally succeeded in talking our local workshop here into replacing the intake gasket and all the vacuum lines to sort out poor low end performance and very rough idle, especially when the air conditioning is on, which being in the tropics is all the time. Also replacing the TPS, MAP sensor, fuel filter and all the coolant lines before our road trip next week. Last week we did outer CV joints, tie rods, rack boots, motor and auto trans service, machined all 4 brake rotors and new pads fitted, flushed the brake system, serviced the Air conditioning and fitted 4 new Bridgestone tyres. Apart from the rough idle and low end performance issues, it drives like new. Hopefully this weeks work will solve that. She picked up the car very cheap about 4 years ago and hasn’t been back for almost 3 years due to the lock downs. So with the current crazy second hand car prices here and the low parts and labour prices, we should have a good reliable car when pick it up again Saturday morning. Plus it helps the local family run garage that appears to be very quite like most workshops here since Covid…
you lucky man got that gasket removed easy, mine 99 CR-V took me two days: day and night just to remove 67 percent of stuck old gasket on the engine surface like welded there, separating air intake from engine was easy thanks to your video, even the bracket on the crv is different from the one on the Civic, The gasket was hard lik concrete, I don't know how, I used 7 blades, carbon scrapper, even sharp wood scrapper, I had to go easy and slowly, so I do t damage the aluminum casting engine surface, I almost gave up, I thought I will never clean it up while the engine on the car without damaging the engine surface. but thanks God I did it finally not 100 percent but close, and installed the gasket and tighten the nut and bolts according the right sequence and no vacuum leak and the engine now running like new, engine RPM now normal, transmission bad or hard shifting gone, low RPM on while stopping hard, and engine RPM goes down to almost zero when start the car are all gone. I couldn't believe how many issues can a leaky intake gasket cause to car operation, and you will never find out, because there was no checkn engine light.
That's a great point about not using sandpaper around intake elements. I would have been tempted to take a small vacuum to the area after scraping the gasket off. This is another great demo, thanks.
I have the exact same car and your clutch hydraulics video was really helpful. Now I'm having an intake manifold leak and about to tackle that. Thanks for the video!
Not sure if it was mentioned in the video or not, but there is a knock sensor right underneath the intake manifold that will break if you rest the manifold on it. Other than that Great video! Helped me out a ton on getting this thing off.
I have had a P0301 cylinder 1 misfire problem (a code reader tells me so) for the last six years. The engine of my 2014 Mazda CX-5, 2.5, when I start it in the morning, hesitates for the first 20-25 seconds until it gets warm enough to drop RMP below 1000. After that the engine works smoothly and during the day, if it is warm enough, it starts without any hesitation. No problem with engine power, no problem with fuel consumption. The spark plugs and ignition coins are okay (rotated them several times). Checked engine compression - normal. Replaced MAF/IAT sensors. The problem is still there. A Mazda dealer could not figure out what caused the problem. I am pretty sure that something is wrong with the ignition of the cold engine. By the way, during the cold seasons, when the temperature dropped below about 10 Celsius degrees, the warning engine light did not come up. Only the last cold season it turned off few times but mainly were on. Do you have any ideas what is going on? Appreciate your help. Vitaliy
From my experience, with side-mounted intakes on inline engines, order is more important than specific torque. This Honda has a nice, metal intake manifold, which isn't as picky about order, either. Plastic intake manifolds, however, tend to use a different type of gasket, and flex a lot more, so extra care should be taken to, in the very least, use the correct tightening order, and gently repeat that order over and over until things are snug.
She still has full compression on every cylinder (cant remember the exact numbers) car starts on the first crank, and still gets 30mpg. It does burn about 1/2 quart of oil every 3000 miles but that's nothing.Oh, the flex pipe and muffler rotted through during our last winter (salt on minnesota roads) so that was replaced. Still has the stock transmission fluid, shifts perfect still. Whole care is very very solid. She doesn't beat on it and always changes the oil on time.
If the owner experiences an MIL just tell them to turn on their camera. It seems like when Eric films they become shy for some reason. So why did the previous intake gasket fail? It just did? Some loose nuts may have allowed air to escape? Poor quality intake gasket to begin with? You made that repair look so easy Eric!! Great video!!
torque wrench is required when tightening metal gaskets (head gasket, exhaust..) that kind of gasket on this video is designed to be also torqued down using angular basis. just use your hands until snug and start torquing using the 45° starting from the center going outside.
Thank you this is such a great video, I don't own a Honda but I have been dealing with a blinking check engine light, throwing a multiple misfire code on my 1.6 Hyundai. This knowledge that you have shared is greatly appreciated, thanks again for the video
I know that FRAMs aren't the best filters out there, but I used them for 15 years in a few vehicles without issue. I changed to Purolator once I saw the the potential for damage, but really they aren't grenades.
Hi Eric i noticed in the video, the gasket you removed and replaced were not the same, the one you replaced looked like it had more of a flush fit (trim), could that have caused the leak to occur (installing the wrong gasket) ?
Very interesting that this Honda didn't go into backup mode with this un-metered air entering the intake and start surging idle process but good video E.
don't know about Honda's but on VW/Audi engines misfire detection is via the camshaft sensor (to determine wich cylinder) and the knock sensors. the ECU recognizes the difference between no combustion, normal combustion and knocking,
After 1996, auto companies phased out OBD1 and Brought in OBD2. Is completely universial. And the connector should be under the dash on the drivers side. If not check the center or under the dash on the passenger side.
My sister has the same engine in her honda accord, 280,000 miles and it still starts up faster than any other car iv'e seen (1'st crank). and its running great. Still has the stock timing belt, and it's never had a problem transmission or engine wise (Until that timing belt breaks).
I remember this job lol put a hondata intake manifold gasket on my B16. Relatively straight forward job just so cramped underneath. my aftermarket manifold did not have holes for the bracket underneath so I just removed it.
Hey car guy, good videos. Learn a lot from u. But for personal reasons I can't work on my car. 2001 Civic LX , they say head gasket replace. Bit recently found intake manifold gasket fan cause same problem. No one wants change intake manifold gasket. Only head gasket. Very grateful to you if you can do a 2001 Civic LX intake manifold gasket replace mention video step by step. Thanks. I will make an attempt myself. Need your video help. No your not responsible for anything I do to my car all my choice and decision I will be 100% responsible if anything bad happens to my car if this sloves my problem. I can day I will be very grateful to you for educational video.
Maybe a year late, but... the 2001-2005 7th Gen center nut (starting at ~ 11:00) is even more difficult to remove than on the 6th Generation due to differences in intake and ignition system. I found that the intake system got in the way of any direct access with the engine in the car, so I had to detach and lift the head and then reach between the head and block to remove that nut blind. Maybe why you were getting a head gasket replacement quote.
may i also add ..that when these engines are made everything is bolted together with the engine out of the car witch makes everything ezer to torque down ....vs the engine already placed in the car ... theres no room for it ...and i know most people would say use long bars or extansions to make the torque needed ...well the problem with that is u will not make the same torque needed with a extansion on a torque wrench .
I have a 97 with 218K, original engine,nothing major has been done yet. Praying that we don't have major issues soon. What type of driving does this person do or does the car really need to go?
BUTTCRAAACCCK :D Lulz, seriously, just got a new one to my mental toolbox, and I mean the water thing, well, I've used soapy water to detect turbo pressure leaks, but anyway, I'm kinda new to gasoline engines and I 've learned a lot fro your videos! Thanks Eric! BTW, most of what I like is the diagnosing process, the repair itself has little use in my case, I don't deal with hondas, just french and italian crap :) and around 99% of them are turbo diesel.
Hey Eric, Recently had that P0300 code with the 6.0 in my Chevy truck. No noticeable missfire was occurring, even under load. It turns out the crank sensor needed to be re-learned. It is on the side of the block. Apparently rust gets behind it and moves it slightly out of position. I just hooked up the scanner and did the ckp procedure. No more flashing light.
Hey Eric where's your Elvis clock? I bought my dad the same one for his birthday ages ago! Just saying. Keep up the good work! Thanks. (From the Netherlands)
I have seen missfire codes because of wrong brand spark plugs installed.I see this a lot with Bosch spark plugs installed in Chrysler,GM and Ford products.Seen this with the E3s a while back.Can be bad headgaskets,screw in a compression tester and a low compression test will confirm this.GM 4.8s,5.3s and 6.0s are known for intake gaskets blowing out and sucking in air causing a missfire.Ford has this problem too,rubber o rings for the intake gaskets.
Her dad bought the car new, only ever had the oil changed, and gave it to her at 100k miles. Ever since then she's been driving it every single day probably about 50ish miles a day. She uses dino oils (non synthetic) and changed every 3-7k miles. The engine has never had anything done to it, not even the timing belt, i changed the spark plugs and adjusted her valves at 200k, now with 280k miles i'll be doing the timing belt in the spring at roughly 300k miles.
Actually, the D16Y8 engine, which this civic has, does indeed have VTEC, which kicks in around 5,600 RPM. It's just a much milder implementation than on some other Hondas, like the B and K series. You can't hear it unless you take off the intake or put on a less muffling intake. It is too bad it's not more noticeable though, really.
I'm wondering, have you considered using a GoPro camera for filming these videos? I imagine it would be able to be clipped on to your visor or safety glasses and give a better view of what you're looking at/doing. On top of being able to be crammed into the smaller spaces the camcorder can't fit.
There are ratchet torque adapters, open-end wrench adapters...come on there are enough tools on the marked fitting to your situation. Dont get me wrong, i really like your videos, you are really professional doing your work. But according to your tools you really have long pockets and short arms :)
Do your self a favor and wrap that blue plug you see under the manifold with friction tape. The wires rub against that bracket and short out(or just throw the bracket in the scrap pile).
As long as you keep up with the maintenance and treat it right you should be fine. The driver of the car in the video just seems to not care for the car.
I know it's an ooooooold video Eric but I'm replacing the intake gasket on a 2000 EX Coupe. I ordered a gasket set on the old eBay and two different ones come in the package. Just by going over your video and others I don't see why that is so. One for a D16y8 and another for a D16y7 possibly? I just don't see the reasoning behind that if you are sure of which engine is involved-it's not "rocket surgery". Any thoughts, anybody?
Just got a P01399 on my Honda civic 2000 I had a misfire on my number one cylinder I cleaned out everything change the plugs wires cap and rotor and ignition coil it ran good once it warmed up it started running rough
Not a mechanic, but since you were using a 12 point wrench, couldnt you also use a 12 point flare nut crowfoot wrench attached to a torque wrench? Or would the torque reading be effected since the fastener is beyond the square drive portion of the torque wrench?
Maybe you could do a video on how to safely jack up cars. I have no idea where I can safely jack up my car without using the factory jack points on the sides of the car.
There's one thing you need to know when tightening bolts, and that is FT. If you don't know what that means you probably shouldn't be allowed to work on a car.
I have a 1996 Civic with a d16y7 that has a loud air rushing noise upon acceleration and huge loss of power in higher rpms, also when reaching 80mph on the highway the check engine light flashes, is this because of a faulty intake manifold or something more? thanks in advance appreciate the help
I've had the same problem on a nissan where I installed a new intake gasket and it only lasted a year. The problem was warped mating surfaces. An easy fix is to coat the gasket with permatex 1C brown hard setting form a gasket and let it cure fully before adding coolant and running it. This lasted me 8 years and long after I sold the truck.
I'm curious why you opt not to put silicone on the intake gasket. I've always had good luck with high temp rtv helping keep gasket in place, extend life of gasket, improves seal between surfaces and helps keep gasket together if you ever have to take it off again.
I replaced mine 2 times and still have a leak. I cleaned the mounting points but just doesn’t seem to seal. What do I do now? Take Intake off and have shop check it out? There any sealers?
Excellent job,,,,,,,,replaced the distributor, wires, spark plugs, sensors, pvc valve, and the darn code P0301 still comes on.... saw your video and ended up being a cracked gasket..the car has 365000 miles and it runs just like when I bought new....you are the best Eric...keep up the good work....
Let me just say that I love you. This is one of the only how-to videos on removing Honda intake manifolds. Of those few, this is the only intelligent tutorial. Thank you for doing these videos for us.
you lucky man got that gasket removed easy, mine 99 CR-V took me two days: day and night just to remove 67 percent of stuck old gasket on the engine surface like welded there and the gasket was hard lik concrete, I don't know how, I used 7 blades, carbon scrapper, even sharp wood scrapper, I had to go easy and slowly, so I do t damage the aluminum casting engine surface, I almost gave up, I thought I will never clean it up while the engine on the car without damaging the engine surface. but thanks God I did it finally not 100 percent but close, and installed the gasket and tighten the nut and bolts according the right sequence and no vacuum leak and the engine now running like new, engine RPM now normal, transmission bad or hard shifting gone, low RPM on while stopping hard, and engine RPM goes down to almost zero when start the car are all gone. I couldn't believe how many issues can a leaky intake gasket cause to car operation, and you will never find out, because there was no checkn engine light.
Thank you for taking the time to show and explain all this. We have a 1996 D16Y8 Vti-E here in Thailand at my partners family home (we’re here on holiday from Australia). I’ve finally succeeded in talking our local workshop here into replacing the intake gasket and all the vacuum lines to sort out poor low end performance and very rough idle, especially when the air conditioning is on, which being in the tropics is all the time. Also replacing the TPS, MAP sensor, fuel filter and all the coolant lines before our road trip next week.
Last week we did outer CV joints, tie rods, rack boots, motor and auto trans service, machined all 4 brake rotors and new pads fitted, flushed the brake system, serviced the Air conditioning and fitted 4 new Bridgestone tyres.
Apart from the rough idle and low end performance issues, it drives like new. Hopefully this weeks work will solve that.
She picked up the car very cheap about 4 years ago and hasn’t been back for almost 3 years due to the lock downs. So with the current crazy second hand car prices here and the low parts and labour prices, we should have a good reliable car when pick it up again Saturday morning. Plus it helps the local family run garage that appears to be very quite like most workshops here since Covid…
you lucky man got that gasket removed easy, mine 99 CR-V took me two days: day and night just to remove 67 percent of stuck old gasket on the engine surface like welded there, separating air intake from engine was easy thanks to your video, even the bracket on the crv is different from the one on the Civic,
The gasket was hard lik concrete, I don't know how, I used 7 blades, carbon scrapper, even sharp wood scrapper, I had to go easy and slowly, so I do t damage the aluminum casting engine surface, I almost gave up, I thought I will never clean it up while the engine on the car without damaging the engine surface. but thanks God I did it finally not 100 percent but close, and installed the gasket and tighten the nut and bolts according the right sequence and no vacuum leak and the engine now running like new, engine RPM now normal, transmission bad or hard shifting gone, low RPM on while stopping hard, and engine RPM goes down to almost zero when start the car are all gone. I couldn't believe how many issues can a leaky intake gasket cause to car operation, and you will never find out, because there was no checkn engine light.
That's a great point about not using sandpaper around intake elements. I would have been tempted to take a small vacuum to the area after scraping the gasket off. This is another great demo, thanks.
I have the exact same car and your clutch hydraulics video was really helpful. Now I'm having an intake manifold leak and about to tackle that. Thanks for the video!
i don't own or know half the cars you work on but i watch you videos because they are your videos
You the man Erick. Thanks for all your helpful videos.
Just got a newer intake manifold myself and ill install this using this video. Thank you Eric
Dammit Eric, you're a mechanic, not a plumber! Good work regardless. :)
Not sure if it was mentioned in the video or not, but there is a knock sensor right underneath the intake manifold that will break if you rest the manifold on it. Other than that Great video! Helped me out a ton on getting this thing off.
01:54 Haha I like the little "woosh" sound effect you added in when you show the scanner!
Thanks Eric, now i understand for a misfire more.
Just great another super video.
Petr Miškeřík possibly installed incorrectly
So much videos to watch I still hadn't seen all of them lol.
I miss this Eric the Car Guy. Cardboard. On his back. Old crap Civic. Good times...
this poor person just needs a new car but at the same time, Keeps you busy and gives us nice videos to watch
I have had a P0301 cylinder 1 misfire problem (a code reader tells me so) for the last six years. The engine of my 2014 Mazda CX-5, 2.5, when I start it in the morning, hesitates for the first 20-25 seconds until it gets warm enough to drop RMP below 1000. After that the engine works smoothly and during the day, if it is warm enough, it starts without any hesitation. No problem with engine power, no problem with fuel consumption. The spark plugs and ignition coins are okay (rotated them several times). Checked engine compression - normal. Replaced MAF/IAT sensors. The problem is still there. A Mazda dealer could not figure out what caused the problem. I am pretty sure that something is wrong with the ignition of the cold engine. By the way, during the cold seasons, when the temperature dropped below about 10 Celsius degrees, the warning engine light did not come up. Only the last cold season it turned off few times but mainly were on. Do you have any ideas what is going on? Appreciate your help. Vitaliy
ERIC, give us a video on what you do to prepare your personal vehicles for a harsh Ohio winter. Thanks
From my experience, with side-mounted intakes on inline engines, order is more important than specific torque. This Honda has a nice, metal intake manifold, which isn't as picky about order, either. Plastic intake manifolds, however, tend to use a different type of gasket, and flex a lot more, so extra care should be taken to, in the very least, use the correct tightening order, and gently repeat that order over and over until things are snug.
Very helpful I has the same issue! Wouldn’t have thought about / find it without you!
She still has full compression on every cylinder (cant remember the exact numbers) car starts on the first crank, and still gets 30mpg. It does burn about 1/2 quart of oil every 3000 miles but that's nothing.Oh, the flex pipe and muffler rotted through during our last winter (salt on minnesota roads) so that was replaced. Still has the stock transmission fluid, shifts perfect still. Whole care is very very solid. She doesn't beat on it and always changes the oil on time.
Love that gasket scraping music!
If the owner experiences an MIL just tell them to turn on their camera. It seems like when Eric films they become shy for some reason. So why did the previous intake gasket fail? It just did? Some loose nuts may have allowed air to escape? Poor quality intake gasket to begin with? You made that repair look so easy Eric!! Great video!!
torque wrench is required when tightening metal gaskets (head gasket, exhaust..) that kind of gasket on this video is designed to be also torqued down using angular basis. just use your hands until snug and start torquing using the 45° starting from the center going outside.
somebody must really like that damn car
I love the music during the lifting of the vehicle.
And the smiley cover his plumbers crack lol!
Da Coder covering* darn phone
Darude-Sandstorm
I get the feeling that this little Honda is a 'Mother-In-Law' car by the way Eric talks about sending it on its way. Ha!
Great video man! I'm an old subscriber and still loving the videos Man!
Thank you this is such a great video, I don't own a Honda but I have been dealing with a blinking check engine light, throwing a multiple misfire code on my 1.6 Hyundai. This knowledge that you have shared is greatly appreciated, thanks again for the video
Good job Eric this helps us understand a lot.
Good tip with spraying water on intake. A whole lot safer than other sprays.
i'm with this rn. thanks!!!!
I know that FRAMs aren't the best filters out there, but I used them for 15 years in a few vehicles without issue. I changed to Purolator once I saw the the potential for damage, but really they aren't grenades.
I find all of your videos incredibly interesting, thanks for everything :)
I think that little Civic just likes being famous and on camera so it keeps coming back.
Show me how you get a torque wrench in there and I'll try it.
Hi Eric i noticed in the video, the gasket you removed and replaced were not the same, the one you replaced looked like it had more of a flush fit (trim), could that have caused the leak to occur (installing the wrong gasket) ?
that car and you are soul mates it makes problems with its self just so it can come and see u eric
Very interesting that this Honda didn't go into backup mode with this un-metered air entering the intake and start surging idle process but good video E.
don't know about Honda's but on VW/Audi engines misfire detection is via the camshaft sensor (to determine wich cylinder) and the knock sensors. the ECU recognizes the difference between no combustion, normal combustion and knocking,
After 1996, auto companies phased out OBD1 and Brought in OBD2. Is completely universial. And the connector should be under the dash on the drivers side. If not check the center or under the dash on the passenger side.
yes he did, he also confirms it around 17:50 seconds when he shows the tear over the cylinder 1
My sister has the same engine in her honda accord, 280,000 miles and it still starts up faster than any other car iv'e seen (1'st crank). and its running great. Still has the stock timing belt, and it's never had a problem transmission or engine wise (Until that timing belt breaks).
9 years later I hope that belt got replaced
Another great video Eric. Thanks for sharing.
You do great work, to teach others. Thanks
Hey, he works like I do! Floor jack, and jackstands!!
you don't need to if you do it a lot and you know how tight it should be. Plus, there's often no room for a torque wrench
The tunes are nifty and swell eric
I remember this job lol put a hondata intake manifold gasket on my B16. Relatively straight forward job just so cramped underneath. my aftermarket manifold did not have holes for the bracket underneath so I just removed it.
Good work Eric
eric i love ur videos , keep sharing more info about civics
thanks
Purolator for a good price/quality ratio. Wix/Napa, Mobil, or Amsoil if you're extending oil change intervals with syn or just want the best.
Hey car guy, good videos. Learn a lot from u. But for personal reasons I can't work on my car.
2001 Civic LX , they say head gasket replace. Bit recently found intake manifold gasket fan cause same problem. No one wants change intake manifold gasket. Only head gasket. Very grateful to you if you can do a 2001 Civic LX intake manifold gasket replace mention video step by step. Thanks. I will make an attempt myself. Need your video help. No your not responsible for anything I do to my car all my choice and decision I will be 100% responsible if anything bad happens to my car if this sloves my problem. I can day I will be very grateful to you for educational video.
Maybe a year late, but... the 2001-2005 7th Gen center nut (starting at ~ 11:00) is even more difficult to remove than on the 6th Generation due to differences in intake and ignition system. I found that the intake system got in the way of any direct access with the engine in the car, so I had to detach and lift the head and then reach between the head and block to remove that nut blind. Maybe why you were getting a head gasket replacement quote.
1998 Civic keep teaching us :)
may i also add ..that when these engines are made everything is bolted together with the engine out of the car witch makes everything ezer to torque down ....vs the engine already placed in the car ... theres no room for it ...and i know most people would say use long bars or extansions to make the torque needed ...well the problem with that is u will not make the same torque needed with a extansion on a torque wrench .
Like the water trick to check for sh!t wrong.. Nice!
I have a 97 with 218K, original engine,nothing major has been done yet. Praying that we don't have major issues soon. What type of driving does this person do or does the car really need to go?
BUTTCRAAACCCK :D Lulz, seriously, just got a new one to my mental toolbox, and I mean the water thing, well, I've used soapy water to detect turbo pressure leaks, but anyway, I'm kinda new to gasoline engines and I 've learned a lot fro your videos! Thanks Eric! BTW, most of what I like is the diagnosing process, the repair itself has little use in my case, I don't deal with hondas, just french and italian crap :) and around 99% of them are turbo diesel.
Ty Eric
every mechanic should video their work- means we'd have proof we fixed it before it came back
Nice vis Eric. Thanks
11:05 - ETCG's audition tape for James Bond: Skyfall
Hey Eric, Recently had that P0300 code with the 6.0 in my Chevy truck. No noticeable missfire was occurring, even under load. It turns out the crank sensor needed to be re-learned. It is on the side of the block. Apparently rust gets behind it and moves it slightly out of position. I just hooked up the scanner and did the ckp procedure. No more flashing light.
Learnd alot from ur vids man thanks alot!
Time to rebuild that jack Eric
you gotta love the famous cardboard creeper lol.
You gotta love the infamous giant catch-nothing sump that let the floor get wet.
For us common folks,what a ball park cost for all that diagnostic and the repair ? Thanks
You are OK
Hey Eric where's your Elvis clock? I bought my dad the same one for his birthday ages ago! Just saying. Keep up the good work! Thanks. (From the Netherlands)
I have seen missfire codes because of wrong brand spark plugs installed.I see this a lot with Bosch spark plugs installed in Chrysler,GM and Ford products.Seen this with the E3s a while back.Can be bad headgaskets,screw in a compression tester and a low compression test will confirm this.GM 4.8s,5.3s and 6.0s are known for intake gaskets blowing out and sucking in air causing a missfire.Ford has this problem too,rubber o rings for the intake gaskets.
I keep trying to catch glimpses of the back half of that sexy red station wagon in the background. What is that? My guess is an early 90s Corolla?
Her dad bought the car new, only ever had the oil changed, and gave it to her at 100k miles. Ever since then she's been driving it every single day probably about 50ish miles a day. She uses dino oils (non synthetic) and changed every 3-7k miles. The engine has never had anything done to it, not even the timing belt, i changed the spark plugs and adjusted her valves at 200k, now with 280k miles i'll be doing the timing belt in the spring at roughly 300k miles.
Eric, These people that do not replace the bracket. Are they asking for leaks in the intake?
Love your videos bro. Thank you so much
Actually, the D16Y8 engine, which this civic has, does indeed have VTEC, which kicks in around 5,600 RPM. It's just a much milder implementation than on some other Hondas, like the B and K series. You can't hear it unless you take off the intake or put on a less muffling intake. It is too bad it's not more noticeable though, really.
Brilliant video. Really interesting and I don't even own a Honda :-)
I'm wondering, have you considered using a GoPro camera for filming these videos? I imagine it would be able to be clipped on to your visor or safety glasses and give a better view of what you're looking at/doing. On top of being able to be crammed into the smaller spaces the camcorder can't fit.
I just want you to know, that I really appreciate the smiley face :)
There are ratchet torque adapters, open-end wrench adapters...come on there are enough tools on the marked fitting to your situation. Dont get me wrong, i really like your videos, you are really professional doing your work. But according to your tools you really have long pockets and short arms :)
Do your self a favor and wrap that blue plug you see under the manifold with friction tape. The wires rub against that bracket and short out(or just throw the bracket in the scrap pile).
This car reminds me of my moms 89 taurus station wagon.
As long as you keep up with the maintenance and treat it right you should be fine. The driver of the car in the video just seems to not care for the car.
Could you do a video about low rpm idling? That would be an awesome video,
I know it's an ooooooold video Eric but I'm replacing the intake gasket on a 2000 EX Coupe. I ordered a gasket set on the old eBay and two different ones come in the package. Just by going over your video and others I don't see why that is so. One for a D16y8 and another for a D16y7 possibly? I just don't see the reasoning behind that if you are sure of which engine is involved-it's not "rocket surgery". Any thoughts, anybody?
Just got a P01399 on my Honda civic 2000 I had a misfire on my number one cylinder I cleaned out everything change the plugs wires cap and rotor and ignition coil it ran good once it warmed up it started running rough
Dude, I bet if he had a donate for a car lift feature on his website he'd probably get a car left.
Not a mechanic, but since you were using a 12 point wrench, couldnt you also use a 12 point flare nut crowfoot wrench attached to a torque wrench? Or would the torque reading be effected since the fastener is beyond the square drive portion of the torque wrench?
Do u thik u could of checked the bolts 1st to see if it would of corrected it ? Looks like a pain to get to
Maybe you could do a video on how to safely jack up cars. I have no idea where I can safely jack up my car without using the factory jack points on the sides of the car.
I use the maroon scour pad to clean up paper gasket remains as well. I am not of fan of using the gasket scraper on the heads and block.
There's one thing you need to know when tightening bolts, and that is FT. If you don't know what that means you probably shouldn't be allowed to work on a car.
I have a 1996 Civic with a d16y7 that has a loud air rushing noise upon acceleration and huge loss of power in higher rpms, also when reaching 80mph on the highway the check engine light flashes, is this because of a faulty intake manifold or something more? thanks in advance appreciate the help
I'm pretty sure he did, there was a vacuum like noise a couple times.
can you do video on 2001 civic intake manifold gasket.? there aren't any videos out at all
Yes please do a video on 2001 Civic 1.7
thought spraying water on parts like that could be risky cause damage that's why pressure washing engine isn't recommended
Parabéns. Obrigado
I wish there was an EricTheHeavyDutyDieselGuy lol, anyone know any channels relating to hd diesel repair/diagnoses?
Driver never checks the oil. Engine ran dry and blew up twice. No one really looks after it once it leaves Eric's shop.
I've had the same problem on a nissan where I installed a new intake gasket and it only lasted a year. The problem was warped mating surfaces. An easy fix is to coat the gasket with permatex 1C brown hard setting form a gasket and let it cure fully before adding coolant and running it. This lasted me 8 years and long after I sold the truck.
I'm curious why you opt not to put silicone on the intake gasket. I've always had good luck with high temp rtv helping keep gasket in place, extend life of gasket, improves seal between surfaces and helps keep gasket together if you ever have to take it off again.
O2 sensor
I replaced mine 2 times and still have a leak. I cleaned the mounting points but just doesn’t seem to seal. What do I do now? Take Intake off and have shop check it out? There any sealers?