Excellent presentation! Step by step, clear view of procedures, verbal clarifications, and no annoying background music. This is how to help people to diy. RUclipsrs take note...
I just did my rough in for my plumbing, electrical, and HVAC on my first house. Done everything myself and passed inspection last friday. Its definitely a journey.
@TKCL thanks, I was definitely nervous. I've done a lot of work with new construction, but those 3 were the only things I didn't have experience with. It's should be smooth sailing for me here on out. Just a matter of time and money.
Well Andrew as far as I am concerned you hit it out of the park again. I could not have done what you are doing. Very interesting. Thank you !! Take care and have a good week. 🇨🇦
Just a suggestion, you may want to add a block to space out the two kitchen switch boxes by the door. When you go put the cover plates on there going to be really close. And because your OCD like me, you will notice it. Better to do it now.
Just a small tip: For finding wiring you can check with your local metal recycling centers...most utilities will sell their ends & scraps to them and you can get it for pennies! I worked at one for a while and noticed the power company would bring the left over "bits" to us...these bits would be up to several yards long...a very nice size for stuff like this.
You should check out ground crimps.. they come in different sizes and you can leave 2,3,4 grounds long to go to each switch.. saves valuable space in those tight boxes
If your City, County, etc allows it, I would install the grounding electrode conductor to the main panel inside the house. That way, if there is ever an issue or failure with the connection, the seal on the Meter Base does not have to be cut. For the Homeowner, this can be an ugly and time consuming process dealing with the power company and/or inspector. You may not be able to get your power back on the same day. If the connection is in the Main panel, you can do the maintenance without any power disruptions. Drill a hole through the wall and run the grounding electrode conductor{conductor for ground rods} to the main panel. Mount a bonding bridge on the outside wall near where the GEC comes through for your low voltage grounds. Great video, Thanks, Russ, J.Electrician from Oregon
When I was a kid, my parents would only watch HGTV (before it turned to reality TV) and PBS and the never-ending episodes of This Old House, The New Yankee Workshop etc. I could NEVER understand what they found entertaining about that. Yet, here I am, 25 years later getting a soup-to-nuts tutorial on building a house and couldn't be more entertained. So glad I found your channel when I did. I can't wait to see what the inspector said. Keep up the great work!!
Looking good keep it up always exciting if you love what you do I grow up around that kind of work and still doing it today I love it that days seems like they get shorter doing it if you know what I'm saying just past so fast like whating you video !!! I look out for the next one can't wait to see you pass inspector inspection lol.
As always GREAT JOB Andrew! Pretty sure you will pass your rough in inspections with flying colors!! One thin for sure any issues arise with your house you will know exactly where to start troubleshooting.
Great learning video Andrew. I have gotten a lot of great information and your videos are always a highlight for my days. Looking forward to seeing what the inspector had to say.
Another great video Andrew 👍 I knew this is after the fact but Buchanan's sleeves would have helped you tremendously at your switch box locations for multiple bare copper pigtails. I only use greenies on my duplex outlets and single switch box locations. Good luck on your inspection, my brother!
Given that crap with the bank, I think you’re going to be happier and enjoy the drive you have now to make all of this tie together… wishing you all the best !
I have been following you for quite some time. I worked as an Electrician for 40 years and I wanted to tell you that you are doin a great job. I am sorry I did not tell you about the LB's you were going to hide in the wall. I thought maybe that wall was going to be open.
Great job Andrew with the work and the video. Just one little tip on putting those ground rods in that might help you in the future. What I use is a very powerful SDS rotary hammer drill. I put a pointed bit in it, slip an impact socket over that and drive the rods in with ease. I just thought that might be helpful. Take care and God Bless.
For the hard to reach areas, the pro level foam wand thats stiff aluminum, attach vinyl tubing so you can foam in corners, around pipes, and really hard to reach areas.
Duct seal is approved more than silicone. Had an inspector requires we scrape silicone off and duct seal in the hold instead. Some can be very picky even without basis
Hello Andrew 🙂 All of the wires started to look like spaghetti to me. I'm impressed with the concentration you needed to connect all of the electrical. Great job as always. God Bless.
This channel is great! I have watched several of the videos and I am completely amazed how you all built your own home. How did you learn to do all of this?
For you or your viewers on future installation of a meter socket and an outdoor sub panel, you can get a combo panel that has the meter socket/outdoor panel in one package. You still have an indoor panel also. They are great because you don’t have to deal with all the stuff wire.
I discussed that in a previous episode, none available locally and to order one online with the proper size breaker was going to be an additional 200 dollars over the setup you see here.
Pro Tip, if you ever do anything like dealing with the heavy gauge wire bends again, before you attach the panel to the wall, temp attach it to a heavy work bench, do not cut the wire to length yet and you can do most of the needed bending of that section via test fit using heavy duty tools that you cannot use near the installed box due to spacing. One of my uncles, years ago, had something jury rigged up used metal conduit of the size appropriate to the wire. He had like 1 inch or so segments that were welded inside some custom steel holders. He would put them on the wire about half an inch or so apart and then screw the steel bars attached to the conduit to this repositional jig that he could set to any curvature and then he would plug the compressor in and it would bend to the target shape. Another thing, that my GC uncle who did electrical as well would do is put the heavier gauge wire in metal conduit and then stick that in a conduit/rebar bender.
One thing I learned early in the game of roughing in is to get the bare copper ground wires tucked into the back of each box to make room for the hot and neutral wires. Always seems to work for me. As far as the feeder wires go there are bending tools that make handling those thicker conductors the whole lot easier.
You’re gonna hate life especially when you go to land your grounds. Always in my book the grounds and what neutrals you don’t need for arc fault and ground fault breakers. Just makes in tighter and neat behind the service entrance conductors
I always land grounds and neutrals first, as said, to get closer and more compact in panel. Don’t forget to leave a ground pigtail for each receptacle and switch, never mind you covered it.
You had a rarity I'm assuming, I've seen this topic on popular RUclips electrical channels and forums. The general consensus is most electricians don't torque to spec. I'm definitely not disagreeing, it's a great thing to do.
Can't wait to hear the results of your inspections, I'm really impressed with all that you know or learned building your house, especially electrical and plumbing. Hopping for nothing but minor issues from inspector, Good Luck. .
If you are running #2 ser to that sub, you can't feed it with a breaker larger than 90a. Also, you do not need anti ox in most situations today. All depends on the wire manufacturer's recommendations. But I don't believe it hurts
@@TKCL yeah, but their ask may be based on old info. Either way you did it, so you are good to go. I edited my comment regarding the subpanel feed breaker too, fyi
Actually if you look at the National Electrical Code Allowable Ampacities of Insulated Conductors Rated 0-2000 Volts chart, it has an asterisk by #2 aluminum wire for dwellings and states it allows 100 amps of service. Otherwise you must go by a temperature chart and derate from 100 amps, but there is the allowance if it's a dwelling. Probably because houses don't pull near the current people assume.
@@TKCL only is that is the service for the entire dwelling. Otherwise you have to drop to the 75 degree column, which limits it to 90a Not looking to argue, this is just a very active topic on garage journal and I've seen several electricians push it hard, many times, with support
No worries, I like discussing these things. I had no issues with inspection on that, and the likelihood of me ever hitting a full 100 amp load on that sub panel is practically non existent.
I am not sure if you have the budget for this, but before you do your insulation on the inside, reach out to an aerobarrier contractor and get a quote on it for your area. I had a guy from Tampa come out and do our contractor built 7 year old house and he charged me just under $2/sqft. It was worth every penny, because we dropped our electrical bill by over 50% due to how many leaks were present in the fairly new house. We went from paying almost $200/month in electric to now our bill is typically right around $90-100. Last month we paid $94 and we keep our hvac on 74F.
I won't have time or the budget, but I feel comfortable on how well I've sealed the house. Then add 5 inches of spray foam on top of that.... I should be good.
It does not here only as long as the meter and main are back to back. FYI my permit was also pulled Dec 2020 before the new electrical xode came out in 2021.
Is it needed to run the ground wire from main panel to meter socket? aren’t they connected together with neutral so all you would need is run a ground wire from meter socket ground lug to ground rod? Doing my house and trying to learn.
That's correct and all you need to do. Some areas require grounding at the main panel. Mine requires grounding at the meter. The neutral does continue the bond inside.
@@TKCL so the correction was removing the bare wire that connected the meter box with the main panel or removing the bonding screw? Or both? 😅. Or something else that I didn’t catch? Thanks!
Thanks for the video getting ready to install a meter and main panel in the pole barn. Also glad you decided to start wearing a hat 😁👍 I know they give you head aches but the sun will make you start looking old quick.😂
How can you do all this and record?? Awesome work man, there is nothing like doing the work your self, peace of mind no corners where cut.. I know you are not an electrician but I thought Id still ask.. My main panel is inside the kitchen and and the meter is right outside and is about a foot apart, does code require rigid metal conduit or can I get by with plastic?
I've done both with metal and plastic, passed both times. No matter what you use (especially) metal, make sure to put that bushing on the end so the wire can't be cut. Also code usually requires a disconnect switch between the outdoor meter and main panel. My local building department does not require this as long as they are back to back as you described.
You don't here as long as the meter base and main panel are back to back. If the main panel is elsewhere and a run of wire goes through the house, a disconnect must be used.
@@TKCL okay. I believe where I’m at you still have to have a disconnect outside and those are hard to come by right now. Thanks for the information. Great video.
No, you can add as many sub panels as you want. 200 amps of 240 volt is 400 amps of 120 volt. It's highly unlikely you will ever come close to half of that amount of usage. Most homes run on a fraction of the supplied power.
HELP! I'm replacing an old Federal Pacific 100-amp panel with a 200-amp Square D Hameline panel, so I will need to upgrade the service entrance cable and want to use 2/0 THHN copper. The outdoor meter can/box is mounted low, (30" off the ground at bottom edge of can) outside, so if I use the bottom rear 2-inch knockout of the meter can, it will put the hole through the wall below the bottom edge of the new breaker panel by about 8 inches, so I will have to make a vertical 90 upwards turn from hole in wall to bottom knockout of the new panel. I cannot find a 2" close 90 PVC electrical fitting so I'm guessing they don't make one. My question is: how do I make that vertical 90 turn upwards? It will eventually be covered in drywall. Do I need to have the inside copper leads in conduit at all? If I use switch to 4/0 aluminum, do I need conduit inside the wall cavity? thanks in advance!
Andrew...were you allowed to backfill your trench before the inspection? I'm about to do a similar project and didn't know if inspector has to verify trench depth or do they take the homeowners word for it.
Yes except I was asked to leave both ends open for visual inspection of depth. Some inspectors will also bring a metal rod to randomly poke at different areas and measure depth to top of the conduit.
This is probably a crazy question. But what would happen if you decided to build your house way out in the country like you are and you never get the inspection like your supposed to.
Sadly we live in a different world now, the tax collectors office actually reviews satellite imagery to see if any new structures pop up. They also randomly show up unannounced on property too. Makes me wonder how legal this is.
Expect your electric company to call and check. The permit office is only a phone call away and with the new meters, power can be turned off from their office.
@@TKCLmy office (DOT) is the one that collects the aerials that go to the FDOR and property appraisers. Most countries are on a 3 yr cycle. I’m sure there’s a law that now says they can come on your property. I know property appraisers will come out and measure structures and such.
How come you don't use a meter -main combo outside? So power can be turned off in sn emergency siuation. Doesn't your inspector care? What about fire marshall? Did you take out a permit?
You apparently don't know the full code. If placing a meter and main back to back a disconnect it NOT required here. If placing apart a disconnect is required. Fully inspected, passed code ect. Your fire department should be trained to pull a meter as a means of disconnect in an emergency, if not, they don't know what they are doing.
Grounding codes are weird come out you think they’d be pretty standard, and California people used to ground to water pipes, and it wasn’t uncommon to zap yourself a little bit under running water if you grounded with the other hand. The sinks used to be made of iron coated with ceramic, and old sinks might have chips, a friend had a couple chips in his sink and if you would touch that in the water you’d get a little zap. It’s weird because California has pretty hefty regulations because of earthquake code but they didn’t used to be that picky about grounding I guess. 😂
Wrong, already covered this in another episodes comments. I have had both panels covers installed with no clearance issue. It's close, but they do not overlap.
In that same section, this seems like a no. "Because the service neutral conductor provides the effective ground-fault current path to the power supply [250.24(C)], you don’t have to install an equipment grounding conductor within PVC conduit containing service-entrance conductors [250.142(A)(1) and 352.60 Ex 2] (Fig. 2)."
Isn't the neutral/grounding bar already connected to the metal entrance enclosure? That's then the conductor that connects to the main panel and house ground. I am also using PVC conduit.
Hand Pounding A Grounding Rod.... really? Didn't the international code change back in 2005 or so to require new foundations to include a rebar grounding rod? During the pre-pour inspection, the building inspector makes sure that a stub of rebar is extended up above the top of the foundation for the Ufer ground. E3608.1.2 Concrete-encased electrode. A concrete-encased electrode consisting of at least 20 feet (6096 mm) of either of the following shall be considered as a grounding electrode: 1.One or more bare or zinc galvanized or other electrically conductive coated steel reinforcing bars or rods not less than 1/2 inch (13 mm) in diameter, installed in one continuous 20-foot (6096 mm) length, or if in multiple pieces connected together by the usual steel tie wires, exothermic welding, welding, or other effective means to create a 20-foot (6096 mm) or greater length. 2.A bare copper conductor not smaller than 4 AWG. Metallic components shall be encased by at least 2 inches (51 mm) of concrete and shall be located horizontally within that portion of a concrete foundation or footing that is in direct contact with the earth or within vertical foundations or structural components or members that are in direct contact with the earth. Where multiple concrete-encased electrodes are present at a building or structure, only one shall be required to be bonded into the grounding electrode system. [250.52(A)(3)] ❖ Encasing an electrode in concrete must be done, of course, before the concrete is placed for the footings. The 20 feet (6096 mm) of size 4-AWG bare copper conductor is run in the forms close to the bottom of the footing before the concrete is placed. Enough conductor is left extending out of the footing to be run to the service equipment without a splice. At the point where the copper conductor exits the concrete, it could be broken off by being bent back and forth several times before and during construction. To help protect this conductor, a nonmetallic conduit around the conductor where it leaves the footing would be helpful. In some installations, the end of a horizontal reinforcing bar in the concrete is bent upward so as to create an above-ground exposed connection point for a grounding electrode conductor. In other cases, concrete contractors have been known to provide a short piece of steel-reinforcing rod bent at a 90-degree (1.57 rad) angle and tie-wire it to a footing reinforcing bar for the purpose of providing a stub out for the electrician to connect to. The code does not appear to address these practices and it is the author′s opinion that the code does not anticipate that connections will be made that are solely dependent upon a scrap of rebar that is scabbed (tie-wired) onto the functional rebar. It is noted, however, that the code does allow multiple pieces of rebar to be tied together to create a 20-foot (6096 mm) or longer electrode, assuming that such pieces are placed horizontally in the concrete as required by this section. The best conducting path will likely be achieved where the grounding electrode conductor connects directly to the functional reinforcing steel. The code does not assume that the reinforcing steel bars are present because they are required as part of the structural design, although that is typically why they would be present. Reinforcing bars could be installed for the sole purpose of creating an electrode.
So how does this pass a crawl space foundation with zero concrete? The code here (fully inspected) requires two ground rods spaced a minimum of 6ft apart for any main service panel.
Your mention of drywalling soon reminded me of a Matt Risinger video from a while back. Anything to prevent pest problems later since your framing is currently exposed. ruclips.net/video/LIvPla-07fo/видео.html
@@TKCL networking guy here, we leave excess everything, I would have looped the feed to the panel around the meter, and up into the lugs to leave “service loop” I realize that stuff is expensive
I've left everything in excess in my boxes and panels. I will however leave zero excess in a meter box with exposed 200 amps of 240 volt lugs everywhere. That's asking for trouble in my opinion, a meter box has way too much exposed metal conductors for my comfort.
Well done sir... However you will never make it as a professional electrician. You failed the first step, you cleaned up after yourself. ( just a joke that people in the trades get)
As a journeyman electrician, I must commend you on your use of code. You did everything very well, better than some electricians.
Thank you, I've spent a lot of time doing my best to read the NEC and learn.
hey did you use a ditch witch to run3 inch conduit
Yes, best $75 I ever spent. My conduit was 2.5 inches.
@@TKCL Where can I get a NEC???
All NEC regulations are on the internet, or you can buy a rule book.
Excellent presentation! Step by step, clear view of procedures, verbal clarifications, and no annoying background music. This is how to help people to diy. RUclipsrs take note...
Glad you enjoyed it
To bend the ends of large wire use a deep socket the size of the wire with an 18” extension.
Good tip!
Thanks!
That sure was a lot of work on the electrical! Appreciate the information Andrew. One step closer my friend!
Thank you very much sir! Hope you are doing well.
I just did my rough in for my plumbing, electrical, and HVAC on my first house. Done everything myself and passed inspection last friday. Its definitely a journey.
Congratulations! That's a huge step!
@TKCL thanks, I was definitely nervous. I've done a lot of work with new construction, but those 3 were the only things I didn't have experience with. It's should be smooth sailing for me here on out. Just a matter of time and money.
Well Andrew as far as I am concerned you hit it out of the park again. I could not have done what you are doing. Very interesting. Thank you !! Take care and have a good week. 🇨🇦
Thank you sir!
Enjoy each of your episodes. I have learned so much....Thank you!
Thank you for watching
Just a suggestion, you may want to add a block to space out the two kitchen switch boxes by the door. When you go put the cover plates on there going to be really close. And because your OCD like me, you will notice it. Better to do it now.
Just a small tip: For finding wiring you can check with your local metal recycling centers...most utilities will sell their ends & scraps to them and you can get it for pennies!
I worked at one for a while and noticed the power company would bring the left over "bits" to us...these bits would be up to several yards long...a very nice size for stuff like this.
You should check out ground crimps.. they come in different sizes and you can leave 2,3,4 grounds long to go to each switch.. saves valuable space in those tight boxes
I had to chuckle when you started bending those thick wires cuz I know they don't bend! hang in there Andrew you got this one.
Lol I eventually bent them, but they didn't like it!
If your City, County, etc allows it, I would install the grounding electrode conductor to the main panel inside the house. That way, if there is ever an issue or failure with the connection, the seal on the Meter Base does not have to be cut. For the Homeowner, this can be an ugly and time consuming process dealing with the power company and/or inspector. You may not be able to get your power back on the same day. If the connection is in the Main panel, you can do the maintenance without any power disruptions. Drill a hole through the wall and run the grounding electrode conductor{conductor for ground rods} to the main panel. Mount a bonding bridge on the outside wall near where the GEC comes through for your low voltage grounds. Great video, Thanks, Russ, J.Electrician from Oregon
After inspection my inspector required grounding at the meter box. Apparently my Electric Co-op requires that as well.
That looked like a tremendous amount of work you pulled off in this video. Awesome job.
Thank you, it was a couple of days worth.
When I was a kid, my parents would only watch HGTV (before it turned to reality TV) and PBS and the never-ending episodes of This Old House, The New Yankee Workshop etc. I could NEVER understand what they found entertaining about that. Yet, here I am, 25 years later getting a soup-to-nuts tutorial on building a house and couldn't be more entertained. So glad I found your channel when I did. I can't wait to see what the inspector said. Keep up the great work!!
Lol, don't forget about the Red Green show.... The ultimate handyman! 😂
Thank you for watching and the support
Looking good keep it up always exciting if you love what you do I grow up around that kind of work and still doing it today I love it that days seems like they get shorter doing it if you know what I'm saying just past so fast like whating you video !!! I look out for the next one can't wait to see you pass inspector inspection lol.
All is well what a learning experience it was building our own home. Took 13 months and I learned so many great skills.
Great job Andrew. No matter what the inspector found you have learned a lot and taught us a lot.
Thank you , it's been a heck of a learning experience.
As always GREAT JOB Andrew! Pretty sure you will pass your rough in inspections with flying colors!! One thin for sure any issues arise with your house you will know exactly where to start troubleshooting.
That's exactly right
Great job and like a lot of work . You getting there . Can’t wait to see it sheet rock in . Gonna really make a big difference. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Yes it is! Thanks for watching
@@TKCL sent u an email ..
I responded
Oh how exciting!!!! I’m sure you passed with flying colors:) I need to hurry and get to the next video to see how it went:) tfs:)
You are doing an amazing job on your home. You have to start somewhere and you are doing great. Good luck on your upcoming inspections.
Thank you very much
Great learning video Andrew. I have gotten a lot of great information and your videos are always a highlight for my days. Looking forward to seeing what the inspector had to say.
Thank you very much Bryan!
Praying that everything pass keep the good work up.
here in nc our sub panels have to have separate grounds and neutrals like yours but it also requires a ground rod in the ground.
Hi, Andrew! This was quite a hard day’s work. You did great as always.
Thank you very much
Hey bro you did a great job thank you for sharing with us amigo! God bless you🙏
Glad you enjoyed it, God bless.
Another great video Andrew 👍 I knew this is after the fact but Buchanan's sleeves would have helped you tremendously at your switch box locations for multiple bare copper pigtails. I only use greenies on my duplex outlets and single switch box locations. Good luck on your inspection, my brother!
Yeah I'm just learning about those... Oh well, I'll make it work.
Given that crap with the bank, I think you’re going to be happier and enjoy the drive you have now to make all of this tie together… wishing you all the best !
I agree! Thanks
I have been following you for quite some time. I worked as an Electrician for 40 years and I wanted to tell you that you are doin a great job. I am sorry I did not tell you about the LB's you were going to hide in the wall. I thought maybe that wall was going to be open.
I have a feeling it would have been a non issue, but I chose to tear it out and install the SER cable. Thank you for watching!
Great job Andrew with the work and the video. Just one little tip on putting those ground rods in that might help you in the future. What I use is a very powerful SDS rotary hammer drill. I put a pointed bit in it, slip an impact socket over that and drive the rods in with ease. I just thought that might be helpful. Take care and God Bless.
I own a smaller hammer drill, thanks.
Good luck on your inspections
Ha Andrew. Checking in from Jamaica 🇯🇲🙏. Let's get some box and wires installed ☺️☺️
Yes sir! Take care
@@TKCL thanks Andrew, am really impressed with the way u are building, been your first. Keep it up. Looking forward to the complete project.
Thank you very much
You hitting that ground rod so close to that Siding made me so nervous 😓 . Great video and good luck on inspection!
Should have seen the one I was pounding in right in front of the window 😳
For the hard to reach areas, the pro level foam wand thats stiff aluminum, attach vinyl tubing so you can foam in corners, around pipes, and really hard to reach areas.
Duct seal is approved more than silicone. Had an inspector requires we scrape silicone off and duct seal in the hold instead. Some can be very picky even without basis
Thanks for the awesome video lots of info and nice neat job you did.
Thank you for watching
Hello Andrew 🙂 All of the wires started to look like spaghetti to me. I'm impressed with the concentration you needed to connect all of the electrical. Great job as always. God Bless.
Lol well I like spaghetti!
That's a lot of wires. Wow. What a puzzle.
The house is looking awsome.
Thanks
Awesome work, I am excited to see how you did
Thank you!
This channel is great! I have watched several of the videos and I am completely amazed how you all built your own home. How did you learn to do all of this?
Just went after it and researched on RUclips. I've grown up in the country where you have to figure things out and saving money is a way of life.
HOWdy Kelley's
Thanks
COOP
the WiSeNhEiMeR from Richmond, INDIANA
...
Amazing man!! So excited for you both!!
Thank you
We carried a 1” box wrench to bend service cable. Personally don’t like the ground wire nuts. I will stick with bare copper crimp sleeves
For you or your viewers on future installation of a meter socket and an outdoor sub panel, you can get a combo panel that has the meter socket/outdoor panel in one package. You still have an indoor panel also. They are great because you don’t have to deal with all the stuff wire.
I discussed that in a previous episode, none available locally and to order one online with the proper size breaker was going to be an additional 200 dollars over the setup you see here.
Pro Tip, if you ever do anything like dealing with the heavy gauge wire bends again, before you attach the panel to the wall, temp attach it to a heavy work bench, do not cut the wire to length yet and you can do most of the needed bending of that section via test fit using heavy duty tools that you cannot use near the installed box due to spacing. One of my uncles, years ago, had something jury rigged up used metal conduit of the size appropriate to the wire. He had like 1 inch or so segments that were welded inside some custom steel holders. He would put them on the wire about half an inch or so apart and then screw the steel bars attached to the conduit to this repositional jig that he could set to any curvature and then he would plug the compressor in and it would bend to the target shape. Another thing, that my GC uncle who did electrical as well would do is put the heavier gauge wire in metal conduit and then stick that in a conduit/rebar bender.
Good tips!
Hummm..... was that a "Stranded" ground electrode conductor that you buried?
Your point? Nec lists stranded copper for GECs. Copper is copper right?
One thing I learned early in the game of roughing in is to get the bare copper ground wires tucked into the back of each box to make room for the hot and neutral wires. Always seems to work for me. As far as the feeder wires go there are bending tools that make handling those thicker conductors the whole lot easier.
Great teaching 👍
Glad you found it useful.
You’re gonna hate life especially when you go to land your grounds. Always in my book the grounds and what neutrals you don’t need for arc fault and ground fault breakers. Just makes in tighter and neat behind the service entrance conductors
I always land grounds and neutrals first, as said, to get closer and more compact in panel. Don’t forget to leave a ground pigtail for each receptacle and switch, never mind you covered it.
The lugs in MBR and Meter bases should be torqued with a torque wrench . Shes lookn nice
👍
Click - Torque achieved.
I'd be curious as to how many electricians actually carry around a torque wrench and torque to specs. I'm betting less than 1 percent.
@@TKCL I heard my electricians torque wrench clicking when I had my meter upgraded
You had a rarity I'm assuming, I've seen this topic on popular RUclips electrical channels and forums. The general consensus is most electricians don't torque to spec. I'm definitely not disagreeing, it's a great thing to do.
Andrew what about a surge protector breaker for your main panel, are you going to install one to protect the whole house?
Yes I am, that's another reason I wanted to free up some space in the main panel with a sub panel
What are the sleeves on the wall that go through the back of the panel for the wire?
Conduit nipples with threaded ends for wire chafes and nuts.
Can't wait to hear the results of your inspections, I'm really impressed with all that you know or learned building your house, especially electrical and plumbing. Hopping for nothing but minor issues from inspector, Good Luck. .
Thank you very much, editing the video now!
If you are running #2 ser to that sub, you can't feed it with a breaker larger than 90a.
Also, you do not need anti ox in most situations today. All depends on the wire manufacturer's recommendations. But I don't believe it hurts
My inspector actually asked to see if I did coat it.
@@TKCL yeah, but their ask may be based on old info. Either way you did it, so you are good to go. I edited my comment regarding the subpanel feed breaker too, fyi
Actually if you look at the National Electrical Code Allowable Ampacities of Insulated Conductors Rated 0-2000 Volts chart, it has an asterisk by #2 aluminum wire for dwellings and states it allows 100 amps of service. Otherwise you must go by a temperature chart and derate from 100 amps, but there is the allowance if it's a dwelling. Probably because houses don't pull near the current people assume.
@@TKCL only is that is the service for the entire dwelling. Otherwise you have to drop to the 75 degree column, which limits it to 90a
Not looking to argue, this is just a very active topic on garage journal and I've seen several electricians push it hard, many times, with support
No worries, I like discussing these things. I had no issues with inspection on that, and the likelihood of me ever hitting a full 100 amp load on that sub panel is practically non existent.
Did you use an expansion fitting on that conduit coming out of the ground to the bottom of your meter base?
Didn’t look like it. That caught my eye too. That pipe will be baking in the sun.
I am not sure if you have the budget for this, but before you do your insulation on the inside, reach out to an aerobarrier contractor and get a quote on it for your area. I had a guy from Tampa come out and do our contractor built 7 year old house and he charged me just under $2/sqft. It was worth every penny, because we dropped our electrical bill by over 50% due to how many leaks were present in the fairly new house. We went from paying almost $200/month in electric to now our bill is typically right around $90-100. Last month we paid $94 and we keep our hvac on 74F.
I won't have time or the budget, but I feel comfortable on how well I've sealed the house. Then add 5 inches of spray foam on top of that.... I should be good.
I'm really hoping after all I'm paying for spray insulation that I have electric bills close to yours.
Doesn't the new code call for a disconnect after the meter box for FF use in case of emergency?
It does not here only as long as the meter and main are back to back. FYI my permit was also pulled Dec 2020 before the new electrical xode came out in 2021.
Is it needed to run the ground wire from main panel to meter socket? aren’t they connected together with neutral so all you would need is run a ground wire from meter socket ground lug to ground rod? Doing my house and trying to learn.
That's correct and all you need to do. Some areas require grounding at the main panel. Mine requires grounding at the meter. The neutral does continue the bond inside.
@@TKCL so the correction was removing the bare wire that connected the meter box with the main panel or removing the bonding screw? Or both? 😅. Or something else that I didn’t catch? Thanks!
Remove green THHN wire from main panel to meter socket and leave the bare in at the meter socket ground lug.
so you used a ditch witch to trench the conduit for the 3 inch pvc? this is my plan fir my garage
We run 2.5 inch here. Yes I rented a ditch witch, totally worth the money.
Here is the video ruclips.net/video/nFOhHkVBIyM/видео.html
oh great thanks! didn't see that video
Great video.. nice work
Thank you
Did you use #2 Aluminum SER wire for the 100 amp sub panel?
Thanks to covid I couldn't find any service entrance wire anywhere. So I had to run standard 2-2-2-4 aluminum wire and place in Conduit.
Thanks for the video getting ready to install a meter and main panel in the pole barn. Also glad you decided to start wearing a hat 😁👍 I know they give you head aches but the sun will make you start looking old quick.😂
Glad you find the content useful. Take care
What gauge wire did they run from power pole to meter and what gauge did you use from meter to panel?
I have to run 4/0,4/0,2/0 from pole to meter.
I am not sure, they provided it. Here everyone calls it 200 amp service cable.
Looking good.
Thanks 👍
You did a great job. Saved $3k
If he did all of his rough in electrical and the meter install, he saved a lot more than $3k on that house.
Agreed!
As we have said electricians are generally first ones in and last ones out
I want to learn how to do this, but you said you've never done this before,lol.
Doesn't stop me from learning and trying. I passed all inspections with only three minor redos.
How can you do all this and record?? Awesome work man, there is nothing like doing the work your self, peace of mind no corners where cut..
I know you are not an electrician but I thought Id still ask..
My main panel is inside the kitchen and and the meter is right outside and is about a foot apart, does code require rigid metal conduit or can I get by with plastic?
I've done both with metal and plastic, passed both times. No matter what you use (especially) metal, make sure to put that bushing on the end so the wire can't be cut. Also code usually requires a disconnect switch between the outdoor meter and main panel. My local building department does not require this as long as they are back to back as you described.
box end wrench to bend it helps
Yes true, good tip!
So you didn’t have to have an outside disconnect for the meter base?
You don't here as long as the meter base and main panel are back to back. If the main panel is elsewhere and a run of wire goes through the house, a disconnect must be used.
@@TKCL okay. I believe where I’m at you still have to have a disconnect outside and those are hard to come by right now. Thanks for the information. Great video.
My question is if i add 125 amp subpanel to my 200 amp panel does that only leave me 75 amps for my house. Will it overload my house panel
No, you can add as many sub panels as you want. 200 amps of 240 volt is 400 amps of 120 volt. It's highly unlikely you will ever come close to half of that amount of usage. Most homes run on a fraction of the supplied power.
HELP! I'm replacing an old Federal Pacific 100-amp panel with a 200-amp Square D Hameline panel, so I will need to upgrade the service entrance cable and want to use 2/0 THHN copper.
The outdoor meter can/box is mounted low, (30" off the ground at bottom edge of can) outside, so if I use the bottom rear 2-inch knockout of the meter can, it will put the hole through the wall below the bottom edge of the new breaker panel by about 8 inches, so I will have to make a vertical 90 upwards turn from hole in wall to bottom knockout of the new panel. I cannot find a 2" close 90 PVC electrical fitting so I'm guessing they don't make one.
My question is: how do I make that vertical 90 turn upwards? It will eventually be covered in drywall. Do I need to have the inside copper leads in conduit at all? If I use switch to 4/0 aluminum, do I need conduit inside the wall cavity? thanks in advance!
I can't answer this, your electrica company and building inspection requirements will vary from mine. You need to check with them.
Love the show! Take a break!
Bushing on the sub feed cable connector?
That's because it originally had conduit, hard to seal a cable clamp.
Andrew...were you allowed to backfill your trench before the inspection? I'm about to do a similar project and didn't know if inspector has to verify trench depth or do they take the homeowners word for it.
Yes except I was asked to leave both ends open for visual inspection of depth. Some inspectors will also bring a metal rod to randomly poke at different areas and measure depth to top of the conduit.
Andrew, I hope you saved gabs of money doing all this electrical work yourself. It looks like a very complicated system. Nice job!
Im sure I saved money.... Not time lol
This is probably a crazy question. But what would happen if you decided to build your house way out in the country like you are and you never get the inspection like your supposed to.
Sadly we live in a different world now, the tax collectors office actually reviews satellite imagery to see if any new structures pop up. They also randomly show up unannounced on property too. Makes me wonder how legal this is.
Expect your electric company to call and check. The permit office is only a phone call away and with the new meters, power can be turned off from their office.
@@TKCLmy office (DOT) is the one that collects the aerials that go to the FDOR and property appraisers. Most countries are on a 3 yr cycle.
I’m sure there’s a law that now says they can come on your property. I know property appraisers will come out and measure structures and such.
LUCKY. We aren't aloud to use Aluminum wire here.
That's all you can find in larger sizes around here
How come you don't use a meter -main combo outside? So power can be turned off in sn emergency siuation. Doesn't your inspector care? What about fire marshall? Did you take out a permit?
You apparently don't know the full code. If placing a meter and main back to back a disconnect it NOT required here. If placing apart a disconnect is required. Fully inspected, passed code ect. Your fire department should be trained to pull a meter as a means of disconnect in an emergency, if not, they don't know what they are doing.
The grounding rod shall not be less than 8 feet in length and must be
free of nonconductive coatings, such as paint or enamel
Have you checked out Wago connectors?
No I'm not familiar with them
@@TKCL Would have made things a lot easier. Check Amazon
ruclips.net/video/AWiyreFFt-Q/видео.html
1st in the house 😃
You win! 😁
Dang this is more of a teaser than your community update 😣😣😣😣 🤞🏽🤞🏽🤞🏽🤞🏽🤞🏽
Well oops!
👍🎯
You forgot the slip joint
I would never recommend just buried wire without conduit. To many animals that can chew it then you have to replace it all
Grounding codes are weird come out you think they’d be pretty standard, and California people used to ground to water pipes, and it wasn’t uncommon to zap yourself a little bit under running water if you grounded with the other hand. The sinks used to be made of iron coated with ceramic, and old sinks might have chips, a friend had a couple chips in his sink and if you would touch that in the water you’d get a little zap. It’s weird because California has pretty hefty regulations because of earthquake code but they didn’t used to be that picky about grounding I guess. 😂
Yikes 😳
@@TKCL Don’t worry, manufactures are too cheap do use metal in tubs or bathroom sinks anymore. 😂😂
Lol
Hi grateful job from india iam a electricion
Thank you for watching
That Data panel is too close to the electrical panel both covers will not fit without overlapping, and inspector won’t like that on final
Wrong, already covered this in another episodes comments. I have had both panels covers installed with no clearance issue. It's close, but they do not overlap.
WRONG >>>concentric knock out... must use bonding bushing MIGB type
Never once seen a bonding bushing used here on any service to home or shop. Had to look it up.
@@TKCL NEC Section 250.92
In that same section, this seems like a no. "Because the service neutral conductor provides the effective ground-fault current path to the power supply [250.24(C)], you don’t have to install an equipment grounding conductor within PVC conduit containing service-entrance conductors [250.142(A)(1) and 352.60 Ex 2] (Fig. 2)."
Isn't the neutral/grounding bar already connected to the metal entrance enclosure? That's then the conductor that connects to the main panel and house ground. I am also using PVC conduit.
Concentric and Eccentric Knockouts: Which Need Grounding Bushings?
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your correct....
2nd YAAAY
You need a day off.. go fishing. Take a nap. 👍
Tell me about it
Hand Pounding A Grounding Rod.... really? Didn't the international code change back in 2005 or so to require new foundations to include a rebar grounding rod?
During the pre-pour inspection, the building inspector makes sure that a stub of rebar is extended up above the top of the foundation for the Ufer ground.
E3608.1.2 Concrete-encased electrode.
A concrete-encased electrode consisting of at least 20 feet (6096 mm) of either of the following shall be considered as a grounding electrode:
1.One or more bare or zinc galvanized or other electrically conductive coated steel reinforcing bars or rods not less than 1/2 inch (13 mm) in diameter, installed in one continuous 20-foot (6096 mm) length, or if in multiple pieces connected together by the usual steel tie wires, exothermic welding, welding, or other effective means to create a 20-foot (6096 mm) or greater length.
2.A bare copper conductor not smaller than 4 AWG.
Metallic components shall be encased by at least 2 inches (51 mm) of concrete and shall be located horizontally within that portion of a concrete foundation or footing that is in direct contact with the earth or within vertical foundations or structural components or members that are in direct contact with the earth.
Where multiple concrete-encased electrodes are present at a building or structure, only one shall be required to be bonded into the grounding electrode system. [250.52(A)(3)]
❖ Encasing an electrode in concrete must be done, of course, before the concrete is placed for the footings. The 20 feet (6096 mm) of size 4-AWG bare copper conductor is run in the forms close to the bottom of the footing before the concrete is placed. Enough conductor is left extending out of the footing to be run to the service equipment without a splice. At the point where the copper conductor exits the concrete, it could be broken off by being bent back and forth several times before and during construction. To help protect this conductor, a nonmetallic conduit around the conductor where it leaves the footing would be helpful. In some installations, the end of a horizontal reinforcing bar in the concrete is bent upward so as to create an above-ground exposed connection point for a grounding electrode conductor. In other cases, concrete contractors have been known to provide a short piece of steel-reinforcing rod bent at a 90-degree (1.57 rad) angle and tie-wire it to a footing reinforcing bar for the purpose of providing a stub out for the electrician to connect to. The code does not appear to address these practices and it is the author′s opinion that the code does not anticipate that connections will be made that are solely dependent upon a scrap of rebar that is scabbed (tie-wired) onto the functional rebar. It is noted, however, that the code does allow multiple pieces of rebar to be tied together to create a 20-foot (6096 mm) or longer electrode, assuming that such pieces are placed horizontally in the concrete as required by this section. The best conducting path will likely be achieved where the grounding electrode conductor connects directly to the functional reinforcing steel. The code does not assume that the reinforcing steel bars are present because they are required as part of the structural design, although that is typically why they would be present. Reinforcing bars could be installed for the sole purpose of creating an electrode.
So how does this pass a crawl space foundation with zero concrete? The code here (fully inspected) requires two ground rods spaced a minimum of 6ft apart for any main service panel.
Your mention of drywalling soon reminded me of a Matt Risinger video from a while back. Anything to prevent pest problems later since your framing is currently exposed. ruclips.net/video/LIvPla-07fo/видео.html
Lol your going to like a upcoming episode, I've had that product in my shop ready to go for a few months now. 😉
12:15 CRINGE! You left no excess
No excess what? Ground? That's a very easy fix
@@TKCL networking guy here, we leave excess everything, I would have looped the feed to the panel around the meter, and up into the lugs to leave “service loop”
I realize that stuff is expensive
I've left everything in excess in my boxes and panels. I will however leave zero excess in a meter box with exposed 200 amps of 240 volt lugs everywhere. That's asking for trouble in my opinion, a meter box has way too much exposed metal conductors for my comfort.
Alright man I’m three days in and I’ve noticed a bunch you did wrong
Well done sir... However you will never make it as a professional electrician. You failed the first step, you cleaned up after yourself. ( just a joke that people in the trades get)
Oh lord, here come the comments 🍿😳