The lesson here is to find someone who KNOWS the building codes in your area to review your project before starting. Spending a couple of hundred dollars on the front end for knowledgeable advice can save you thousands of dollars and a lot of grief on the back end. Just because it makes sense to you doesn't mean that the building codes won't tear you a new one.
thats why i live where i dont have to follow silly codes just the practical ones like put rebar in your concrete , use heavy enough wire and breakers for the job, ect.
Reality is no such person exists. The codes are so numerous and projects have so many moving parts that only someone with a complete understanding of the whole project MIGHT catch this. GCs who build houses like this miss stuff like this all the time. It’s just a part of life.
Glad you were open to alternatives solutions. Don't ever be afraid to call the inspection office to ask questions about what your doing. They want to help you be successful and will answer your questions to help you understand the codes better and what options you have.
You are one of the few people that think that way. I have had nothing but a great working relationship with my inspector. Most people hide things, don't call and then wonder why the inspector isn't happy when he or she shows up to the jobsite.
I'd think about going ahead and trenching between the shop and the house, pipe it with the appropriate size PVC conduit, and run your temp power in it. That would also give you options in the future.
What the video doesn't show is I have already trenched from the pole to the house, installed the meter box and passed all inspections. It's the sanitary rule that isn't allowing that final connection.
@@TKCL like this comment says about running temp power from shop I would suggest investing in a propane backup generator installed next to the shop(less noise to hear in house) and add a auto switch panel between meter and main panel at the house but still keep the generator setup you have so if the propane one uses all it's fule you still have a source power.
Hard to justify those expensive whole house units when my cheapo generator will run everything, it's also dual fuel. We are very fortunate to live only a 1/4 mile from a sub station, so when power goes out, we are one of the first to get power back.
I am a electrician and have built two homes. One house has a large shop near the house something like what you have. I ran pertinent power to the shop and buss taped that 200 amp panel and ran underground permanent cable to the house, so just one meter. Also buy a inexpensive plug-in plug tester it will thoroughly test each outlet and be able to test GFIs. The inspector will use one when you get your final electrical inspection.
@@TKCL Take John Taylor's advice, I had build rural houses in the past for other's and had done underground services from the street back, with mid point meter cabinet/disconnects to feed a future shop and to feed the house, never a problem with inspector that was happy as long and you installed extra ground rods, more that required. The one house I had the power turn on before the house was even framed, we ran off the disconnects one GFI outlet building, and once the house was "weathered" I had the Panel hot and inspected with the rough-in. You can do the same with a 200 amp panel in the garage/barn you have, and either overhead to the barn, or underground to the pole.
Hi Andrew, the inspector was nice to give you some options for temporary electric to the house so you will be able to move forward. The house looks beautiful and thanks for the lighted tour. Merry Christmas. 🎄🎁
I just added a shop to my property about 60 feet from house. It's opposite of what you are doing but still applies. A buddy of mine dug a 3' deep trench and we put in mains power as well as a 2" conduit. The nice thing about the conduit is that we put in fiber optic cable, CAT6 network cable, and pull strings for future. You could do something like that and then not worry about tripping over electrical cords and you can always disconnect it when you don't need it. If the future, if you want to consolidate to 1 meter for both the house and the shop, you can then now feed the shop from the house. Alternatively, you could put in a whole house generator at either the house or the shop and use that buried line to feed the other building with a bypass interlock. Options, options, options.
Reading the building code in the beginning of a project helps prevent issues. Most counties have a copy of the building code available, or online, for reference. Putting up a few temporary poles from the powered build and running an overhead line to feed you home panel will keep you going. Quick, simple, and easy with no trenching required.
Most communities rely on the standard code (that is all we have here in Flagstaff), but nuances about what must be in place when are typically local. Talking with an inspector ahead of time will quickly bring up the most common unwanted surprises.
From the couch it seems odd to require sanitary be operational before getting power, power during construction being a desired thing and all. It does make perfect sense though to prevent dumb people from moving into a space early and making a nasty mess of things. Sometimes you know what you don't know, some times you don't.
@@stevedixon921 On sanitary: The purpose is to prevent occupancy before completion and in most locations, outhouses are not allowed, though porta-johns are allowed/required during construction. Codes are for the not only the safety of owners but future owners.
So sorry you didn’t get the news you hoped for, but you always find a bright side… well, not sure it’s a bright side, but an alternative to accomplish your goal. Seems to be the heart of homesteading… solve one problem, pivot to solve another. Things look great! Thanks as always for taking us along!
2-2-4-6 direct burial is fairly inexpensive and easy to do and handles up to 100 amps. I ran it thru the woods at my place for my shop using a stump grinder to cut the trench !
I'm sticking with you ..I have watched every vlog for 18 months ..Merry Christmas everyone, keep safe and well, best wishes from the North Norfolk coast UK Andrew it's a small hic up with the power it will be sorted ❤
If you have trouble with flickering LEDs in future videos, try adjusting the shutter or frame rate. Lowering these often fixes the problem, since LEDs turn on and off very fast, and unlike your eyes, a fast shutter often catches the off part of the cycle. You don't need high frame or shutter speeds for most non-sports video (try setting frame rates 30 or 24 FPS, shutter at 1/30 or even slower).
@@TKCL Sounds like your generator wasn't running at 60hz. Mains power is quite steady and consistent with the frequency. Glad to see the problem is fixed, but you know what to do next time!
Doesn't apply here, but worth noting for future reference: if you are getting "see it with your eyes" flickering of that sort with fluorescent lights after a wiring change, turn it off, remove the tubes, and check the voltage. An open neutral or (in the case of 208V, connection to the "wild leg") will produce waves of light in the tubes and the ballast won't like it a bit.
@@TKCL I was thinking it was just the output wave form of the generator. Probably more of a square wave. Grid power confirms that. That is not best for some electronics and motors can run hot, so if you anticipate long-term power failures, you want to consider a power conditioner on the generator line in.
@@gregbatch Excellent point. I have never seen a small generator like that one that was approved for running electronics. When I got mine the manual specifically says not to run computers, TVs or other digital electronics off of it without a power conditioner. May also be worth noting that you need to connect your generator frame to your house ground rod. That ground thing may or may not affect the flicker of the lights.
Suggestion: your light switch in attic, they make one that have a "night light" feature so anyone can easily spot it. :D I'd run that big cable, gain you some power and allow you to continue to work effieciently on your build, a/c operating to condition your home too!
that's only useful if you place the attic light switch outside the attic! once you've opened the attic stairs and climbed up to turn the lights on it's fully pointless to also have a pilot lamp switch. 🤣 if you cannot then tell if the attic lights are on or off, you have more issues, like being 100% blind or dumb. always use a pilot lamp switch if it's located outside the attic/crawlspace. even then they do burn out. you can also wire them backwards so they're lit when switched off if in a crawlspace or attic(debatable now days with the electronic garbage plaquing the markets). **the old neon bulb models worked that way, wired backwards, they'd light up when power off and make a night light/switch locator in the dark. some of us still walk around in the dark nd use out hands and fete to know where we are, we don't consider it "prepping/prepper", it's naturally being ready for the failures of power/lighting..
I'll be accessing the attic via stairs from the living room that I'll build eventually. I've seen those night light switches, they could definitely be useful in certain situations.
There are also faceplates with an led bulb built in to light the outlet or switch and provide night light features. So you don't need a special backlit switch.
Just found your channel. I have a huge appreciation for how you handled this bad news. Many channels would overdramatize the outcome or worse. I can tell, I am going to like this channel.
To avoid or at least reduce the flicker, you can do a number of things: -Reducing the recording frames per second, the FPS, of the camera. -Adjusting the shutter speed: At 60 Hz so you will need a frame rate of 30p with a shutter speed divisible by 60 - 1/60, 1/120, etc. At 50 Hz, you need 25 FPS at a shutter speed like 1/50 or 1/100. -Moving closer or farther from the light, and adjusting the aperture accordingly. -Increasing or decreasing the brightness of the lights. All of these steps allow for the frequency of the AC current powering the LED to match as closely as possible to the FPS of the camera. Those LEDs that run on drivers that switch the current to direct current, or DC, don’t have this problem. Some power supply drivers rectify the AC current from 50 or 60 Hz, increasing it up to 120 Hz, which becomes even hard for cameras to pick up, and fixes the problem. Are you saying you have LEDs on DC power supply and are still running into this problem? In that case, your LEDs might be hooked onto pulse width modulation (PWM) for dimming setups. With PWM, the LED again goes through periods of on and off cycles in the circuit, that can be captured by the camera as it records. SOURCE: ledlightinginfo.com/why-do-led-lights-flicker-on-video
Some good pointers, but one thing you missed is that gen set is probably not exactly on frequency with 60 Hz power. IOW, if it's running at 61 - 62 Hz (normal with a mechanical gov at part load) it may still cause the flickering lights.
I'm not a professional electrician nor generator specialist, so I can't comment on generator output frequency. I'm photographer who also shots videos occasionally, so I have experience / knowledge about lighting and how to prevent flickering during video shots. Added the link just to support / prove what I was going to say.
@@TKCL ... I did gen sets for 25 years, which is how I know about the frequency issue. I also dabbled in electronics and photography so know about shutter speed versus frame rate. Did video back around 1970.
Another option might be to run the power from the shop with a large enough wire so that when the home is finished you can remove the service from the shop and feed the power from the house back to the shop. This would save you another meter cost.
Or, with 200 Amp service to the shop, just run power to the house. That depends on the power demands of the house though. I'd NEVER have 2 meters going to my place.
@@TKCL Do a load calculation. Also the tools aren't running all of the time and probably only a single item running. Most people couldn't afford 200 amps running all of the time.
That's very true, but at times with future plans I could have multiple high demand 240v tools running at the same time. We are talking well over 100 amps there
This episode was very informative to me. I’m about to begin with accessory dwelling (shop) then build house afterwards. Luckily I have water and a service pole. I need septic so glad you covered that.
@@TKCL I’m in Florida, couple of counties to the west of you so great heads up for me. Another question, no issues from building dept. doing your own electrical (to code)?
I'd consider trenching in some 2/2/2/4 SER in conduit, then once you get real power, pull the 2/2/2/4 out and sell it. You'd have 100A service, no worries about running over it, and when you're done, you'll have conduit for internet, alarm, or whatever between the house and the shop.
Well that sucks but you found a way to keep moving forward, keep up the great job loving all of this content and thanks for not stringing it out too the end to tell what happen i hate that too.
@@TKCL back feed the power to the house from the generator at the shop... low noise and generator out of the weather. I have a shed roof on the side of my shop and do that now.
I have a temporary wire from the meter pedestal to my new post frame woodshop. I just did it a month ago or-so, and it costed a fortune for the 6 ga. wire! I had to search for the wire because the stores are out of everything! I also ran things off of a heavy (10 ga) extension cord, but needed 220v for my machines. There were no inspections at all in this area until the year we built - lucky us 😉
The flicker from your lights could be because you were running off of the generator. They don't always put out exactly 60 hertz and if you're filming at 30 or 60 fps and the electric is running at 59 or maybe 61 hertz I could see that causing a problem. I'm far from being an electronics expert though.
@@TKCL Fun fact in the UK your wall sockets are 100% illegal due to electric shock risk.... even the plus are illegal too.... Here we have 3 pin plug/sockets the large Earth pin opens the Live/Neutral holes and the plug has plastic covering half the Live/Neutral pin so when the earth pin goes in it`s still not live aka you can not touch live parts...
Kind of right, except grid frequency is also not spot on 60Hz it can vary. Not so much and fast as generator power, but still. In the long run average frequency will be adjusted to 60Hz on the grid, but any random moment it might be something else near 60Hz. You can try to avoid flicker with camera settings (also changing to flicker free lights) slower shutter speed should be better for flicker, but it means more motion blur. Depending settings, camera can do this also automaticly or even accidently depending light conditions.
@@kylereese4822 You're suggesting he spend $20-40K for a solar install instead of $200 for a long extension cable to the work shop? There's nothing cheap about solar power installs.
Even though the Inspector didn't grant you the power he gave you good options. Glad to see you have an Inspector that will work with you. That is definitely a BIG PLUS. In the past I've had just the opposite. Inspectors with attitudes that made the whole process so difficult. Merry Christmas to you , Tiffany and you four-legged pooch. Continue the Great work and Stay Safe and Healthy. God Bless.
Oh boy you are correct... A couple of days checking two states and no one had any. Got very lucky and caught the Lowe's delivery truck dropping a spool off. I got my 125ft!
Your barn to house wire would make for an awesome welder cord later 😉. I would have to adjust the kelvin on those lights except in the kitchen. Looks awesome Andrew. Merry Christmas to you and Tiffany and Bullet
@@TKCL Try 3,000K lights. Above that they are too "blue" and below that they are soft but kind of dim. Seems 3,000K gives you a little bit of both temperatures in illumination. btw...great video. You must be very proud of this project.
Man, I'm SO excited for you guys while also a little envious!! One question (and I don't know if you may have already addressed it so forgive me if you have): Is there a particular reason your Laundry Room switches are behind the door? Just curious if there was a door swing change or something. Awesome work, Andrew! Hope you all had a Merry Christmas.
I would definitely recommend running Pvc from your shop to your house and doing a full 100 amp service from your garage that will only have one utility bill. You would have to check on what you're allowed they might not consider that a temporary power source though. Check with any local electrical contractor they should have the knowledge to get you through
Brother had the same situation run a piece of Romex to a plastic water line it protects it well I even went with thinner wire considered it my fusible link worked fine for months all through the winter for everything I needed in the house until I got my original power Good luck brother! The cheap black roll up plastic water tube line super inexpensive!!
I have had a guest house.two guest homes running off a primary homes meter panel for 7 years.no issues.and the run is mixed 10 and 12 awg. The larger of the two guest homes has central air.still no issues!
I feel for you. Down where I am you can get a builders connection which is at a fixed charged rate. If you have a good one it'll give you between 60 to 100 amps at 240 until you've finished building then you go on to the standard grid rate. Not sure you could run everything at the same time but being frugal you can manage. There is a sorta time limit on a builders pole but it's in years not months.
I thought it was just me. It took me almost six months after I thought I would get power until I got power. I had lots of drama as well. Best of luck getting yours going.
I knew I would need a septic system before I even bought my property. It was the first thing to be installed on my property. The second part was the RV power pole that had to be near the septic. I can't believe you got this far without knowing all the conditions to be met before you get electric. When dealing with bureaucracy there are many hoops. Maybe that's why so many are building "off-grid".
The soil test was done as art of the perk test for the septic system. I couldn't get an electric permit until the entire septic system was installed, fully operational, and inspected! I had to have a pump type system.
So sorry that the code delayed or put an added workaround to your build. Positive side, no problems in your electrical wiring. Any who, Merry Christmas.
LOL, Man i feel for you guys. I had the Shell of my Pole Barn put up, nothing else, then had the Power Company hook me up to Electricity, but the Inspector did tell me my Out House Hole was not the required 6 foot depth, so i had to fix that within a month or they would shut off my power. Other than that it took me 1.5 years to finally be able to move in cause of my 7 days Offshore and 7 Days home work schedule. Good Luck, am enjoying your Videos.
I believe 100 Amp at 220 Volts is 200 Amps at 110 Volts. Making your interconnections at the higher voltage allows you to draw more power over the same wires. You may want to put in networking and phone service in that same trench while you are at it. Just a suggestion, since I cannot help more from Boston. God bless you and yours.
Interesting. In North East Arizona, we had the same issue with Septic as well. In fact, you could not start building without the septic permit and perc test completed. Then, before home is finished septic needs to be completed. Only difference was we did not have the driveway regulations. House is looking great!
We are required to have septic permit and test before a building permit can be issued. I just didn't realize the system had to be operational before power could be turned on. Oh well!
where I live, the lay down propane tank has to be at least 20' from home, but allowed up to 2 stand up vertical tanks beside home, otherwise you have to have them 20 feet away, I put in a 250 gallon horizontal tank and put it closer to 50' away. I have that same generator, not used but 20 hours in 3 years, but never used it on gasoline, only propane. I also picked up a transfer switch, I found brand new at pawn shop, but had planned on interlock, but no argument finding a brand new transfer switch dirt cheap. all I want to power is fridge, freezer, my well, and a few lights, and fan during summer, in winter I use gas heat, and no electricity needed to heat, other than fan to circulate heat
Here the rule is less than 250 gallon tank can be near the structure. Over 250 gallon tank must be a minimum of 10ft away. Be careful of only running that generator on propane, I hear stories of that drying out orings, gaskets ect. Running fuel/gas through it from time to time keeps things lubricated.
@@TKCL i know, but I prefer that to dealing with a possibly gummy carb, if I didnt take time to drain and forgot for a few weeks, to months weird how laws are so different, but when I put mine in, they made 50 gallon lay down, but only vertical was allowed near a home. I wanted a 250 gallon & it has served me well over the years
Here in TN it's the exact same thing, sans the driveway in our county. When I first built the cabin, I was allowed a "temporary" meter which will become the "permanent" meter one day. I had this temp power for over 7 months with a camper on my property, with no deadline implied. I got distracted with life and had to move two hours away to work, so the cabin got put on hold. Don't know how long I could get "temporary" power now, it's been 10 years, if I were to go finish it. No other requirements like a driveway. I did have to have a footer/basement dug for the 911 registry and address. The funny thing is I moved the building from when that was set up, but if EMS can't figure out that the building, which is 75 feet from the original GPS coordinates, then we need different EMS people.
In my county we're not even supposed to camp on the property until the septic is installed but we're going to camp anyway need to make sure that's really where the house should be before we start building.
Those particular led lights are pretty good. I use what are probably the exact same lights at my apartments and love them. They do really good with a dimmer.
I sympathize with your prior ignorance and agree it is a bummer... but it is a self inflicted one friend... hopefully your video will give others a clue so they can avoid the same issues... +5 bonus kewl points for biting the bullet and telling your story
You can run a 4-4-4 Vassar Aluminum Triplex URD Direct Burial Cable,(Mobile home drop) runs about $ 1.25 ft , 100 amp breaker in existing panel if you have room.
Andrew I don't know if you've already purchased your cable. I have 180' of 100-amp SER cable that I purchased from my utility company. I was going to power my shop but haven't gotten to it yet. You're more than welcome to use it till you get power. Idk I'm probably 3hrs northeast of you in Alabama. May could meet halfway or something. Don't know how quick you were wanting it.
@@TKCL Okay good deal. You can always sell it or hang on to it for future projects. I see you have a new video up so that's probably the new cable. Merry Christmas to yall!!
Not sure if you are working with a Florida state requirement or a local building code requirement but I suspect it is the local code. I learned the hard way it is important to know both your local code and also who your electrical inspector is. We built most of my son’s new home and ran into an electrical inspector who I learned later from some local electrical contractors was taking us over the coals because we didn’t hire a union contractor to do the electrical. Everything was done to code, but he went way above and beyond code to hassle us. We did what he asked, just because my son wanted to get the job done. I could write all day about ridiculous requirements, but an example: dedicated wired smoke detector circuit with ground fault and arc fault protection, 8 smoke detectors on the circuit for a 1600 square foot home. Told my son if they ever go off the whole family will go deaf. Anyway, later we built a cabin on our rural property (same state different county) that had no codes or inspectors. We still wired to code, but without the excess requirements, and both buildings are equally safe.
I'd definitely run the temp power cables across the lawn. We do it in the ship yard all the time. Take great care with the cable to prevent damage, and then sell it when you are done.
Go buy 4.0 tri Plex aluminum direct burial and rent a trincher . Have your power company put 200 amp at your shop. Need to get heat in your house. Happy New year 🥰
If you have a motion picture or theatrical equipment rental house in your area you can rent power cable and connectors to run power between your shop and the house. Probably cheaper than buying new cable.
Hi, I like the channel. Good video, the strobing doesn't happen with the first light you turned on in the bathroom. Maybe it's got something to do with the power rating on that lamp. The lights on the dimmer only started to strobe at higher intensity.
I work in Planning. You should always talk to a Planner bc they can tell you what you need but power does not go in until near completion, most use generators or OH Temp power. Extension cords are an electricians nightmare! Also usually no final can be given for occupancy needs w/o water/electricity. The idea given running power from sub panel in garage is better. You can buy direct bury cable- but Bury the cable in duct.
Well, good news you found a way around the issue and lights, so exciting! I love the colors even more now and with the color wood you're going with, it's going to look so sharp! Merry Christmas to everyone!
Bummer about not getting the power:( but thank goodness for generators:) it looks Hyatt with the lights on:)/tfs God Bless and have a very Merry Christmas with your family:)
Too bad you couldn't get the pass on the electrical. Strange about needing your septic before the electrical... Very nice job! IS that a SquareD QO load center? NICE!
Square D homeline series. I think they want the septic complete because people move in without completing a home after power. No septic would create a unsanitary situation.
Nice build! I also have a Champion generator which is a neutral bonded generator (with GFCI). I am also plugging my 30 AMP twist lock cable into a permanently mounted 30AMP hard wired connection to the load center. I am using an interlock (like you) on the load center to prevent power from feeding back to the utility lines. I am NOT using a transfer switch because I want to manually select which circuits I will use. This means we are using a non separately derived system. Assuming you left your generator as bonded neutral (not changed to a floating neutral), how did you wire the outside plug to the load center to pass the inspection (and why was it done this way)?
Take this with a grain of salt, I'm no certified electrician. I hooked the 10/3 wire incoming from the generator inlet box with the red/black to the 30 breaker feeding the main panel. The incoming white and ground both went to the neutral bar because it's bonded in my main panel (first means of home disconnect per NEC). I've read up on the bonded vs non bonded generators and there is a ton of confusion on the web about the need or risk. If you read your Champion manual, it will hint to unbonding in the generator the neutral and ground for transfer switch hookups. They also state that they don't want to tell you how due to risk associated. Long story short, I gather that the generators GFCI plugs will not function correctly if the generator is not bonded, but this is the proper way for home hookup. If you also look at the wiring diagram in your manual it shows the connection of the neutral and ground bond. You could disconnect there for the home hookup and connect back for normal SAFE portable operation. After reading a ton on the subject, I am not sure I see the risk of leaving both the main and generator bonded for short power outages. Do so at your own risk!
Wow. It looks like you have made some really good design decisions along the home building path. I've been at this game for 50 years and just received a new design commission last Monday. So, no retirement yet at 74. It keeps the brain working. It has been my experience that most code enforcement authorities do not grant a final approval and, thus, withhold an electrical approval, until all aspects of a home are in a safe and "ready to occupy" condition. The electrical approval seems to be their final ace up the sleeve in order to prevent the inevitable ones who try to short change the system in some devious way. You would not believe some of the things which I seen residential and commercial contractors try to achieve. The bottom line is that the electrical inspector is not picking on you. You appear to be doing an excellent job and know what you are doing. He is just doing his job. Good luck as you move into the home stretch.
I can see flicker because either your camera isn’t set to reduce that or the generator isn’t producing a full sine wave. Most inverters make a modified sine wave and it messes with lighting nearly always.
That's right yall sing it with them!! this dark ol house of mine, I'm gonna let it shine, let it shine, let it shine!! Wow such a humble approach to distracting issues!! gonna have to turn this into a recorded series of some sort with your permission of course!! Are those LED ceiling lights rough-in construction only or can be used for existing ceiling cans? Will check it out having a few test areas namely porch (deep under roof enclosure), main and garage entryway, and main hallway in this house of mine!! Great job!
Looks great with some lights on! Sorry you had a bump in the road with getting power turned on, you are so smart to think of ways to work around this! Merry Christmas to you, Tiffany and Bullet 🎄🎁❤️
Don't feel like the Lone Ranger, our county wouldn't let us get power to our farm until we had a well and septic. I just wanted to have power to run equipment for our shop. We are working toward putting a house there but I needed power to the shop first.
You are a smart wise man, Andrew. GOD bless you and your wife.
Thank you for watching!
As a new home builder in Texas I love these videos!
Thank you for watching, learning a lot building my first home. Sharing all my learnings good or bad with anyone that's curious.
The lesson here is to find someone who KNOWS the building codes in your area to review your project before starting. Spending a couple of hundred dollars on the front end for knowledgeable advice can save you thousands of dollars and a lot of grief on the back end. Just because it makes sense to you doesn't mean that the building codes won't tear you a new one.
thats why i live where i dont have to follow silly codes just the practical ones like put rebar in your concrete , use heavy enough wire and breakers for the job, ect.
Reality is no such person exists. The codes are so numerous and projects have so many moving parts that only someone with a complete understanding of the whole project MIGHT catch this.
GCs who build houses like this miss stuff like this all the time. It’s just a part of life.
Glad you were open to alternatives solutions. Don't ever be afraid to call the inspection office to ask questions about what your doing. They want to help you be successful and will answer your questions to help you understand the codes better and what options you have.
You are one of the few people that think that way. I have had nothing but a great working relationship with my inspector. Most people hide things, don't call and then wonder why the inspector isn't happy when he or she shows up to the jobsite.
Look out Andrew! Another speed bump. Once again you came up with a way around the issue. Love all the lights.
Absolutely! Onwards and forward!
This is not a milestone this is a setback, fire pit and beverage cheers man you got this. Merry Christmas and keep on keeping on.
Merry Christmas!
I'd think about going ahead and trenching between the shop and the house, pipe it with the appropriate size PVC conduit, and run your temp power in it. That would also give you options in the future.
You are correct there, been thinking about that. At least I could power the shop in a outage situation via generator.
@@TKCL I would trench to a box, then branch to the garage. That way when you are ready for perm power, you just trench to the pole from the box....
What the video doesn't show is I have already trenched from the pole to the house, installed the meter box and passed all inspections. It's the sanitary rule that isn't allowing that final connection.
@@TKCL like this comment says about running temp power from shop I would suggest investing in a propane backup generator installed next to the shop(less noise to hear in house) and add a auto switch panel between meter and main panel at the house but still keep the generator setup you have so if the propane one uses all it's fule you still have a source power.
Hard to justify those expensive whole house units when my cheapo generator will run everything, it's also dual fuel. We are very fortunate to live only a 1/4 mile from a sub station, so when power goes out, we are one of the first to get power back.
I am a electrician and have built two homes. One house has a large shop near the house something like what you have. I ran pertinent power to the shop and buss taped that 200 amp panel and ran underground permanent cable to the house, so just one meter. Also buy a inexpensive plug-in plug tester it will thoroughly test each outlet and be able to test GFIs. The inspector will use one when you get your final electrical inspection.
Thanks for the tips!
@@TKCL Take John Taylor's advice, I had build rural houses in the past for other's and had done underground services from the street back, with mid point meter cabinet/disconnects to feed a future shop and to feed the house, never a problem with inspector that was happy as long and you installed extra ground rods, more that required.
The one house I had the power turn on before the house was even framed, we ran off the disconnects one GFI outlet building, and once the house was "weathered" I had the Panel hot and inspected with the rough-in. You can do the same with a 200 amp panel in the garage/barn you have, and either overhead to the barn, or underground to the pole.
Hi Andrew, the inspector was nice to give you some options for temporary electric to the house so you will be able to move forward. The house looks beautiful and thanks for the lighted tour. Merry Christmas. 🎄🎁
Yes he was! Merry Christmas!
I just added a shop to my property about 60 feet from house. It's opposite of what you are doing but still applies. A buddy of mine dug a 3' deep trench and we put in mains power as well as a 2" conduit. The nice thing about the conduit is that we put in fiber optic cable, CAT6 network cable, and pull strings for future. You could do something like that and then not worry about tripping over electrical cords and you can always disconnect it when you don't need it. If the future, if you want to consolidate to 1 meter for both the house and the shop, you can then now feed the shop from the house. Alternatively, you could put in a whole house generator at either the house or the shop and use that buried line to feed the other building with a bypass interlock. Options, options, options.
That's the exact plan I'm leaning towards.
Reading the building code in the beginning of a project helps prevent issues. Most counties have a copy of the building code available, or online, for reference. Putting up a few temporary poles from the powered build and running an overhead line to feed you home panel will keep you going. Quick, simple, and easy with no trenching required.
But most likely they would want the wire under the ground so you don't have to see the ugly crap in there view.
@@1stFlyingeagle Thus the "temporary" power poles.
Most communities rely on the standard code (that is all we have here in Flagstaff), but nuances about what must be in place when are typically local. Talking with an inspector ahead of time will quickly bring up the most common unwanted surprises.
From the couch it seems odd to require sanitary be operational before getting power, power during construction being a desired thing and all. It does make perfect sense though to prevent dumb people from moving into a space early and making a nasty mess of things.
Sometimes you know what you don't know, some times you don't.
@@stevedixon921 On sanitary: The purpose is to prevent occupancy before completion and in most locations, outhouses are not allowed, though porta-johns are allowed/required during construction. Codes are for the not only the safety of owners but future owners.
So sorry you didn’t get the news you hoped for, but you always find a bright side… well, not sure it’s a bright side, but an alternative to accomplish your goal. Seems to be the heart of homesteading… solve one problem, pivot to solve another. Things look great! Thanks as always for taking us along!
That's exactly right!
2-2-4-6 direct burial is fairly inexpensive and easy to do and handles up to 100 amps. I ran it thru the woods at my place for my shop using a stump grinder to cut the trench !
Yes when you can find it, I got very lucky yesterday! Two states of searching and I caught a delivery truck with some.
@@TKCL Better and easier than running a generator all the time, glad you found it !
House looks terrific all lit up!!
I'm sticking with you ..I have watched every vlog for 18 months ..Merry Christmas everyone, keep safe and well, best wishes from the North Norfolk coast UK Andrew it's a small hic up with the power it will be sorted ❤
Thank you for the support and Merry Christmas!
All the best of luck and blessings. Looks like a huge job has already been done.
Thank you, it's been quite the experience building my own home. I have truly enjoyed the process.
If you have trouble with flickering LEDs in future videos, try adjusting the shutter or frame rate. Lowering these often fixes the problem, since LEDs turn on and off very fast, and unlike your eyes, a fast shutter often catches the off part of the cycle. You don't need high frame or shutter speeds for most non-sports video (try setting frame rates 30 or 24 FPS, shutter at 1/30 or even slower).
I agree, but once I connected to grid power it went away.
@@TKCL Sounds like your generator wasn't running at 60hz. Mains power is quite steady and consistent with the frequency. Glad to see the problem is fixed, but you know what to do next time!
Doesn't apply here, but worth noting for future reference: if you are getting "see it with your eyes" flickering of that sort with fluorescent lights after a wiring change, turn it off, remove the tubes, and check the voltage. An open neutral or (in the case of 208V, connection to the "wild leg") will produce waves of light in the tubes and the ballast won't like it a bit.
@@TKCL I was thinking it was just the output wave form of the generator. Probably more of a square wave. Grid power confirms that. That is not best for some electronics and motors can run hot, so if you anticipate long-term power failures, you want to consider a power conditioner on the generator line in.
@@gregbatch Excellent point. I have never seen a small generator like that one that was approved for running electronics. When I got mine the manual specifically says not to run computers, TVs or other digital electronics off of it without a power conditioner. May also be worth noting that you need to connect your generator frame to your house ground rod. That ground thing may or may not affect the flicker of the lights.
Wow Andrew what a gorgeous place you have- nice and flat and sunny! I enjoy watching you and the video- keep em coming!
Thank you for watching
Suggestion: your light switch in attic, they make one that have a "night light" feature so anyone can easily spot it. :D I'd run that big cable, gain you some power and allow you to continue to work effieciently on your build, a/c operating to condition your home too!
that's only useful if you place the attic light switch outside the attic! once you've opened the attic stairs and climbed up to turn the lights on it's fully pointless to also have a pilot lamp switch. 🤣
if you cannot then tell if the attic lights are on or off, you have more issues, like being 100% blind or dumb. always use a pilot lamp switch if it's located outside the attic/crawlspace.
even then they do burn out. you can also wire them backwards so they're lit when switched off if in a crawlspace or attic(debatable now days with the electronic garbage plaquing the markets). **the old neon bulb models worked that way, wired backwards, they'd light up when power off and make a night light/switch locator in the dark.
some of us still walk around in the dark nd use out hands and fete to know where we are, we don't consider it "prepping/prepper", it's naturally being ready for the failures of power/lighting..
I'll be accessing the attic via stairs from the living room that I'll build eventually. I've seen those night light switches, they could definitely be useful in certain situations.
There are also faceplates with an led bulb built in to light the outlet or switch and provide night light features. So you don't need a special backlit switch.
@@PhilLesh69 that's what I was suggesting...glad you worded more clearer 👍
Just found your channel. I have a huge appreciation for how you handled this bad news. Many channels would overdramatize the outcome or worse. I can tell, I am going to like this channel.
Thank you very much, appreciate the support.
To avoid or at least reduce the flicker, you can do a number of things:
-Reducing the recording frames per second, the FPS, of the camera.
-Adjusting the shutter speed: At 60 Hz so you will need a frame rate of 30p with a shutter speed divisible by 60 - 1/60, 1/120, etc. At 50 Hz, you need 25 FPS at a shutter speed like 1/50 or 1/100.
-Moving closer or farther from the light, and adjusting the aperture accordingly.
-Increasing or decreasing the brightness of the lights.
All of these steps allow for the frequency of the AC current powering the LED to match as closely as possible to the FPS of the camera.
Those LEDs that run on drivers that switch the current to direct current, or DC, don’t have this problem.
Some power supply drivers rectify the AC current from 50 or 60 Hz, increasing it up to 120 Hz, which becomes even hard for cameras to pick up, and fixes the problem.
Are you saying you have LEDs on DC power supply and are still running into this problem? In that case, your LEDs might be hooked onto pulse width modulation (PWM) for dimming setups.
With PWM, the LED again goes through periods of on and off cycles in the circuit, that can be captured by the camera as it records.
SOURCE:
ledlightinginfo.com/why-do-led-lights-flicker-on-video
Awesome information, I'm saving this! Thanks
Some good pointers, but one thing you missed is that gen set is probably not exactly on frequency with 60 Hz power. IOW, if it's running at 61 - 62 Hz (normal with a mechanical gov at part load) it may still cause the flickering lights.
I'm not a professional electrician nor generator specialist, so I can't comment on generator output frequency.
I'm photographer who also shots videos occasionally, so I have experience / knowledge about lighting and how to prevent flickering during video shots.
Added the link just to support / prove what I was going to say.
I ran the house off of my shops power and the flicker went away. It's definitely the generator.
@@TKCL ... I did gen sets for 25 years, which is how I know about the frequency issue. I also dabbled in electronics and photography so know about shutter speed versus frame rate. Did video back around 1970.
👍you're almost there Andrew just keep on doing what you're doing.
Absolutely! 👍
Another option might be to run the power from the shop with a large enough wire so that when the home is finished you can remove the service from the shop and feed the power from the house back to the shop. This would save you another meter cost.
Good idea.
Or, with 200 Amp service to the shop, just run power to the house. That depends on the power demands of the house though. I'd NEVER have 2 meters going to my place.
The house will be fine on power, it's the shop running multiple 240 volt tools, refrigerators, freezers, fans and everything else that I worry about.
@@TKCL Do a load calculation. Also the tools aren't running all of the time and probably only a single item running. Most people couldn't afford 200 amps running all of the time.
That's very true, but at times with future plans I could have multiple high demand 240v tools running at the same time. We are talking well over 100 amps there
This episode was very informative to me. I’m about to begin with accessory dwelling (shop) then build house afterwards. Luckily I have water and a service pole. I need septic so glad you covered that.
At least in Florida you do to get final hookup.
@@TKCL I’m in Florida, couple of counties to the west of you so great heads up for me.
Another question, no issues from building dept. doing your own electrical (to code)?
Zero issues, electrical permit was issued to me in my name. All permits were as a owner builder. That will vary by county, yours might not allow that.
I'd consider trenching in some 2/2/2/4 SER in conduit, then once you get real power, pull the 2/2/2/4 out and sell it. You'd have 100A service, no worries about running over it, and when you're done, you'll have conduit for internet, alarm, or whatever between the house and the shop.
This. And if you are going to power the barn from the house, then maybe just buy what you need to do that.
Won't use conduit, wire is a little over $200, the conduit is almost $700...Absolutely ridiculous!
Well that sucks but you found a way to keep moving forward, keep up the great job loving all of this content and thanks for not stringing it out too the end to tell what happen i hate that too.
You might want to do a permanent interconnection between the shop and house. Leave the breakers open unless needed in an emergency. Just an idea…
Been thinking about that, especially for outage situations.
@@TKCL does your panel have feed thru lugs
@@TKCL back feed the power to the house from the generator at the shop... low noise and generator out of the weather. I have a shed roof on the side of my shop and do that now.
That sounds like it would be another inspection nightmare to do properly
Well done Andrew - really getting exciting!!
Outstanding step forward. The lights really show off your paint color. It is going to be looking great when your done.
Thanks for watching!
I have a temporary wire from the meter pedestal to my new post frame woodshop. I just did it a month ago or-so, and it costed a fortune for the 6 ga. wire! I had to search for the wire because the stores are out of everything! I also ran things off of a heavy (10 ga) extension cord, but needed 220v for my machines. There were no inspections at all in this area until the year we built - lucky us 😉
I feel you, finding supplies has been a nightmare.
The flicker from your lights could be because you were running off of the generator. They don't always put out exactly 60 hertz and if you're filming at 30 or 60 fps and the electric is running at 59 or maybe 61 hertz I could see that causing a problem. I'm far from being an electronics expert though.
I think you are correct, I didn't notice much flicker yesterday when NOT being on generator power.
@@TKCL Fun fact in the UK your wall sockets are 100% illegal due to electric shock risk.... even the plus are illegal too.... Here we have 3 pin plug/sockets the large Earth pin opens the Live/Neutral holes and the plug has plastic covering half the Live/Neutral pin so when the earth pin goes in it`s still not live aka you can not touch live parts...
@@TKCL Why not go solar/battery ??
Kind of right, except grid frequency is also not spot on 60Hz it can vary. Not so much and fast as generator power, but still. In the long run average frequency will be adjusted to 60Hz on the grid, but any random moment it might be something else near 60Hz.
You can try to avoid flicker with camera settings (also changing to flicker free lights) slower shutter speed should be better for flicker, but it means more motion blur. Depending settings, camera can do this also automaticly or even accidently depending light conditions.
@@kylereese4822 You're suggesting he spend $20-40K for a solar install instead of $200 for a long extension cable to the work shop? There's nothing cheap about solar power installs.
Even though the Inspector didn't grant you the power he gave you good options. Glad to see you have an Inspector that will work with you. That is definitely a BIG PLUS. In the past I've had just the opposite. Inspectors with attitudes that made the whole process so difficult. Merry Christmas to you , Tiffany and you four-legged pooch. Continue the Great work and Stay Safe and Healthy. God Bless.
Yes I have been very blessed to have a good inspector.
You’re going to need all that heavy gauge wire for a pool pump someday anyway. You might as well own it already.
If he can find it
@@jason27swg and that’s the sad truth.
Oh boy you are correct... A couple of days checking two states and no one had any. Got very lucky and caught the Lowe's delivery truck dropping a spool off. I got my 125ft!
It’s a sad world when you have to have septic at the same time as electric because so many people promised to get the septic and never did
Very nice to see the house lit up. Glad to hear you had some options instead of just a flat "no".
Me too!
Your barn to house wire would make for an awesome welder cord later 😉. I would have to adjust the kelvin on those lights except in the kitchen. Looks awesome Andrew. Merry Christmas to you and Tiffany and Bullet
We are already talking about toning the lights down in color.
@@TKCL Try 3,000K lights. Above that they are too "blue" and below that they are soft but kind of dim. Seems 3,000K gives you a little bit of both temperatures in illumination. btw...great video. You must be very proud of this project.
My lights go from 3k-5k, we find 3k a bit yellow for our tastes. Thanks for watching!
Props for getting the Champion dual fuel generator. That's a good investment for emergencies after you get your permanent power turned on.
Hurricane alley here, I've been through enough outages that the generator is a must.
Man, I'm SO excited for you guys while also a little envious!! One question (and I don't know if you may have already addressed it so forgive me if you have): Is there a particular reason your Laundry Room switches are behind the door? Just curious if there was a door swing change or something. Awesome work, Andrew! Hope you all had a Merry Christmas.
Yes we made a last minute door swing change due to fear of the door always hitting the washer and dryer.
Looking I. Am happy for you, beautiful house.
Thank you
Ah nice lights camera action !! We have the exact same generator! 👍💞
I would definitely recommend running Pvc from your shop to your house and doing a full 100 amp service from your garage that will only have one utility bill. You would have to check on what you're allowed they might not consider that a temporary power source though. Check with any local electrical contractor they should have the knowledge to get you through
Brother had the same situation run a piece of Romex to a plastic water line it protects it well I even went with thinner wire considered it my fusible link worked fine for months all through the winter for everything I needed in the house until I got my original power Good luck brother! The cheap black roll up plastic water tube line super inexpensive!!
Thank you
Great job ! Glad you have options now until your completed with projects
Me too!
looking great. all in time
We've been 8n the house two years now, it was a great learning experience.
I have had a guest house.two guest homes running off a primary homes meter panel for 7 years.no issues.and the run is mixed 10 and 12 awg. The larger of the two guest homes has central air.still no issues!
Wow thats light duty wire for hvac systems, it has to be maxed out at times.
I feel for you. Down where I am you can get a builders connection which is at a fixed charged rate. If you have a good one it'll give you between 60 to 100 amps at 240 until you've finished building then you go on to the standard grid rate. Not sure you could run everything at the same time but being frugal you can manage. There is a sorta time limit on a builders pole but it's in years not months.
60 amps of 240 is plenty to run hvac and a few tools.
Your awesome. No harm in asking your suppler. You will get a yes or no. If you don't ask you'll never know
I thought it was just me. It took me almost six months after I thought I would get power until I got power. I had lots of drama as well. Best of luck getting yours going.
I've already powered the house off of my shop for the time being.
Happy new year. I would have never even thought about Septic.... Bet most people would not have seen that coming....
It was mentioned on the phone to me when I called for inspection.
Coming along nicely!
Thanks
I knew I would need a septic system before I even bought my property. It was the first thing to be installed on my property. The second part was the RV power pole that had to be near the septic. I can't believe you got this far without knowing all the conditions to be met before you get electric. When dealing with bureaucracy there are many hoops. Maybe that's why so many are building "off-grid".
All that is required here to start is getting a septic permit and soil test. I have both!
The soil test was done as art of the perk test for the septic system. I couldn't get an electric permit until the entire septic system was installed, fully operational, and inspected! I had to have a pump type system.
So sorry that the code delayed or put an added workaround to your build. Positive side, no problems in your electrical wiring. Any who, Merry Christmas.
That's right! Merry Christmas
Yes sir Mr inspector I have septic. Show him a corn cob and 5 gallon bucket and smile! Merry Christmas
Lol!
LOL, Man i feel for you guys. I had the Shell of my Pole Barn put up, nothing else, then had the Power Company hook me up to Electricity, but the Inspector did tell me my Out House Hole was not the required 6 foot depth, so i had to fix that within a month or they would shut off my power. Other than that it took me 1.5 years to finally be able to move in cause of my 7 days Offshore and 7 Days home work schedule. Good Luck, am enjoying your Videos.
Thank you! We have passed all inspections and are currently living in our home. We still have a ton of projects left to do.
From my house to yours Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year
Merry Christmas!
I believe 100 Amp at 220 Volts is 200 Amps at 110 Volts. Making your interconnections at the higher voltage allows you to draw more power over the same wires. You may want to put in networking and phone service in that same trench while you are at it. Just a suggestion, since I cannot help more from Boston. God bless you and yours.
All of that is correct and some things to consider. God bless, take care!
Interesting. In North East Arizona, we had the same issue with Septic as well. In fact, you could not start building without the septic permit and perc test completed. Then, before home is finished septic needs to be completed. Only difference was we did not have the driveway regulations. House is looking great!
We are required to have septic permit and test before a building permit can be issued. I just didn't realize the system had to be operational before power could be turned on. Oh well!
where I live, the lay down propane tank has to be at least 20' from home, but allowed up to 2 stand up vertical tanks beside home, otherwise you have to have them 20 feet away, I put in a 250 gallon horizontal tank and put it closer to 50' away. I have that same generator, not used but 20 hours in 3 years, but never used it on gasoline, only propane. I also picked up a transfer switch, I found brand new at pawn shop, but had planned on interlock, but no argument finding a brand new transfer switch dirt cheap. all I want to power is fridge, freezer, my well, and a few lights, and fan during summer, in winter I use gas heat, and no electricity needed to heat, other than fan to circulate heat
Here the rule is less than 250 gallon tank can be near the structure. Over 250 gallon tank must be a minimum of 10ft away. Be careful of only running that generator on propane, I hear stories of that drying out orings, gaskets ect. Running fuel/gas through it from time to time keeps things lubricated.
@@TKCL i know, but I prefer that to dealing with a possibly gummy carb, if I didnt take time to drain and forgot for a few weeks, to months
weird how laws are so different, but when I put mine in, they made 50 gallon lay down, but only vertical was allowed near a home. I wanted a 250 gallon & it has served me well over the years
You have a heartbeat...awsome
The house looked amazing in the end all powered up. I am sorry to hear the bad news about your permanent power to the house.
It's ok, that's the way it goes.
That turned out great.
Nice job gonna come out beautiful
Thank you for watching
Merry Christmas Tiffany and Andrew
Merry Christmas
Here in TN it's the exact same thing, sans the driveway in our county. When I first built the cabin, I was allowed a "temporary" meter which will become the "permanent" meter one day. I had this temp power for over 7 months with a camper on my property, with no deadline implied. I got distracted with life and had to move two hours away to work, so the cabin got put on hold. Don't know how long I could get "temporary" power now, it's been 10 years, if I were to go finish it. No other requirements like a driveway. I did have to have a footer/basement dug for the 911 registry and address. The funny thing is I moved the building from when that was set up, but if EMS can't figure out that the building, which is 75 feet from the original GPS coordinates, then we need different EMS people.
when I need to call ems I turn on all the hazard lights on all my vehicles in the yard...
In my county we're not even supposed to camp on the property until the septic is installed but we're going to camp anyway need to make sure that's really where the house should be before we start building.
Oh wow, that's crazy! No camping
Man those light are bright bright.... I had to wear my sunglasses 😎👍🏽.
Those particular led lights are pretty good. I use what are probably the exact same lights at my apartments and love them. They do really good with a dimmer.
Good to know, I love the color changing ability.
Great job beautiful house
Thank you, doing my best.
I sympathize with your prior ignorance and agree it is a bummer... but it is a self inflicted one friend... hopefully your video will give others a clue so they can avoid the same issues... +5 bonus kewl points for biting the bullet and telling your story
You can run a 4-4-4 Vassar Aluminum Triplex URD Direct Burial Cable,(Mobile home drop) runs about $ 1.25 ft , 100 amp breaker in existing panel if you have room.
I ran 2-2-2-4 mobile home wire, got it for $1.78ft at Lowes.
WOW! The lights make a big difference.
Yes they do!
I have 100+Ft 220v extension cords, I made from leftover water well wire.. I tested each one for resistance.. worked good for last 4 years :)
Andrew I don't know if you've already purchased your cable. I have 180' of 100-amp SER cable that I purchased from my utility company. I was going to power my shop but haven't gotten to it yet. You're more than welcome to use it till you get power. Idk I'm probably 3hrs northeast of you in Alabama. May could meet halfway or something. Don't know how quick you were wanting it.
Thank you! I ran all over the place and found some 2-2-2-4 wire to power everything up.
@@TKCL Okay good deal. You can always sell it or hang on to it for future projects. I see you have a new video up so that's probably the new cable. Merry Christmas to yall!!
Yep same in TN on the septic system for electric. I was able to pull 200 amps for my camper hook up but for a house septic first. Sorry man.
Only allowed 100 amp here for campers, different rules everywhere.
Nice job on the house. I wouldn’t worry about the video flicker.
I think it was mainly coming from the generator.
@@TKCL when people video the new head lights it happens a lot. Excellent videos
In Hillsborough county Florida power is not turned on until the home is 100% completed/upgraded.
Apparently here I just need the kitchen, all plumbing and sewage completed and signed off of.
Not sure if you are working with a Florida state requirement or a local building code requirement but I suspect it is the local code. I learned the hard way it is important to know both your local code and also who your electrical inspector is. We built most of my son’s new home and ran into an electrical inspector who I learned later from some local electrical contractors was taking us over the coals because we didn’t hire a union contractor to do the electrical. Everything was done to code, but he went way above and beyond code to hassle us. We did what he asked, just because my son wanted to get the job done. I could write all day about ridiculous requirements, but an example: dedicated wired smoke detector circuit with ground fault and arc fault protection, 8 smoke detectors on the circuit for a 1600 square foot home. Told my son if they ever go off the whole family will go deaf. Anyway, later we built a cabin on our rural property (same state different county) that had no codes or inspectors. We still wired to code, but without the excess requirements, and both buildings are equally safe.
I agree, state to state, county to county all vary wildly on codes. Makes it extremely difficult for even contractors to keep up with the changes.
I'd definitely run the temp power cables across the lawn. We do it in the ship yard all the time. Take great care with the cable to prevent damage, and then sell it when you are done.
You are doing a good job.
Thank you for watching
Good to know you at least have some options!
Yes!
Go buy 4.0 tri Plex aluminum direct burial and rent a trincher . Have your power company put 200 amp at your shop. Need to get heat in your house. Happy New year 🥰
I do have 200 amp at the shop. I wound up purchasing some 100 amp mobile home feeder wire and running 60 amps of service to the house from the shop.
Great job as always. Be proud mate. Merry Christmas Andrew, Tiffany and Bullitt.
Merry Christmas!
Temporary power was the first thing I was thinking. :-)
If you have a motion picture or theatrical equipment rental house in your area you can rent power cable and connectors to run power between your shop and the house. Probably cheaper than buying new cable.
I wound up buying 100 amp cable and breakers for just under $300.
Hi, I like the channel. Good video, the strobing doesn't happen with the first light you turned on in the bathroom. Maybe it's got something to do with the power rating on that lamp. The lights on the dimmer only started to strobe at higher intensity.
It had to do with lights on a dimmer and generator power. Once I hooked up to the grid the flicker went away.
I work in Planning. You should always talk to a Planner bc they can tell you what you need but power does not go in until near completion, most use generators or OH Temp power. Extension cords are an electricians nightmare! Also usually no final can be given for occupancy needs w/o water/electricity. The idea given running power from sub panel in garage is better. You can buy direct bury cable- but Bury the cable in duct.
A lot to figure out being a first time home builder, I have been reading a tremendous amount of codes and rules. Can't catch them all
Progress looks awesome am excited for ya. Merry Christmas!!
Merry Christmas!
The house came along so much. I’ve been subscribed since 800 subs too
Thank you very much for the support!
Well, good news you found a way around the issue and lights, so exciting! I love the colors even more now and with the color wood you're going with, it's going to look so sharp! Merry Christmas to everyone!
Merry Christmas!
Bummer about not getting the power:( but thank goodness for generators:) it looks Hyatt with the lights on:)/tfs God Bless and have a very Merry Christmas with your family:)
Merry Christmas!
at 11:56 you mention how bright the LED lights in the kitchen are. Could you post a link to what fixtures you are using?
Here you go amzn.to/3q2qq6i
@@TKCL Thanks!
have a box of 12 coming my way!
Too bad you couldn't get the pass on the electrical. Strange about needing your septic before the electrical...
Very nice job!
IS that a SquareD QO load center? NICE!
Square D homeline series. I think they want the septic complete because people move in without completing a home after power. No septic would create a unsanitary situation.
@@TKCL I can see that about the unsanitary situation, but cannot see how that would effect the electrical... just seems strange.
Too tempting for move in I guess.
i like the number of outlets in the kitchen , putting in a shop and have 2 gang outlets about every 6 ft
Our last home didn't have many and all were on the same breaker. It drove me crazy and I swore my next home wouldn't be tripping breakers.
Nice build! I also have a Champion generator which is a neutral bonded generator (with GFCI). I am also plugging my 30 AMP twist lock cable into a permanently mounted 30AMP hard wired connection to the load center. I am using an interlock (like you) on the load center to prevent power from feeding back to the utility lines. I am NOT using a transfer switch because I want to manually select which circuits I will use. This means we are using a non separately derived system. Assuming you left your generator as bonded neutral (not changed to a floating neutral), how did you wire the outside plug to the load center to pass the inspection (and why was it done this way)?
Take this with a grain of salt, I'm no certified electrician. I hooked the 10/3 wire incoming from the generator inlet box with the red/black to the 30 breaker feeding the main panel. The incoming white and ground both went to the neutral bar because it's bonded in my main panel (first means of home disconnect per NEC). I've read up on the bonded vs non bonded generators and there is a ton of confusion on the web about the need or risk. If you read your Champion manual, it will hint to unbonding in the generator the neutral and ground for transfer switch hookups. They also state that they don't want to tell you how due to risk associated. Long story short, I gather that the generators GFCI plugs will not function correctly if the generator is not bonded, but this is the proper way for home hookup. If you also look at the wiring diagram in your manual it shows the connection of the neutral and ground bond. You could disconnect there for the home hookup and connect back for normal SAFE portable operation. After reading a ton on the subject, I am not sure I see the risk of leaving both the main and generator bonded for short power outages. Do so at your own risk!
Merry Christmas and Happy New year. God Bless
Merry Christmas!
Wow. It looks like you have made some really good design decisions along the home building path. I've been at this game for 50 years and just received a new design commission last Monday. So, no retirement yet at 74. It keeps the brain working. It has been my experience that most code enforcement authorities do not grant a final approval and, thus, withhold an electrical approval, until all aspects of a home are in a safe and "ready to occupy" condition. The electrical approval seems to be their final ace up the sleeve in order to prevent the inevitable ones who try to short change the system in some devious way. You would not believe some of the things which I seen residential and commercial contractors try to achieve. The bottom line is that the electrical inspector is not picking on you. You appear to be doing an excellent job and know what you are doing. He is just doing his job. Good luck as you move into the home stretch.
That's the feeling I got too, people try to move in early once power is granted.
I can see flicker because either your camera isn’t set to reduce that or the generator isn’t producing a full sine wave. Most inverters make a modified sine wave and it messes with lighting nearly always.
It was the generator, once I hooked up to grid power the flicker went away.
That's right yall sing it with them!! this dark ol house of mine, I'm gonna let it shine, let it shine, let it shine!! Wow such a humble approach to distracting issues!! gonna have to turn this into a recorded series of some sort with your permission of course!!
Are those LED ceiling lights rough-in construction only or can be used for existing ceiling cans? Will check it out having a few test areas namely porch (deep under roof enclosure), main and garage entryway, and main hallway in this house of mine!! Great job!
These lights can be junction box mounted, rough in to sheet rock and also adapted to can lights.
@@TKCL Thank you very much for your reply!! I'm all in!!
Looks like a well built house.
Thanks
Looks great with some lights on! Sorry you had a bump in the road with getting power turned on, you are so smart to think of ways to work around this! Merry Christmas to you, Tiffany and Bullet 🎄🎁❤️
Merry Christmas!
Don't feel like the Lone Ranger, our county wouldn't let us get power to our farm until we had a well and septic. I just wanted to have power to run equipment for our shop. We are working toward putting a house there but I needed power to the shop first.
HOWdy KELLEY's
Thanks
COOP
the WiSeNhEiMeR from Richmond, INDIANA
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I remember asking about if you were doing septic. Also if you get temp power on your pole, when you're done with it, just never call to turn it off...
I'm going to sell it, could use the money.