In Engineering School we used styrofoam and fly ash (coal ash) to design and build a concrete canoe for competition. It was pretty light weight it only took 4 people to lift it, very similar principal here. Reduce the portland by replacing it with fly ash. I'm always looking for building alternatives, I have done many non conventional builds. 24x24 clear span with 9ft walls all from white cedar pallets simple to insulate, wire, and very strong. Held 8 inches of snow and the ice that followed. Good Job👍!
Fly ash is a by product of Coal power plants. Due to 8 years of an administration coal plants are being shut down. The concrete became more expensive due to the scarcity of fly ash in U.S. Fly Ash in concrete is being replaced with something else. The domino effect! Fly ash was a filler ingredient in concrete to take up space and increase volume.
People like you are the best man, number 1 you show us we can think outside the box on building a home or whatever, save money etc. And on top of that you share your knowledge with everyone for free after no telling how much R & D is rare these days.! Thank you
Hi Steve I’m a builder for many years! I’ve been see and experimenting with different materials my whole life! I see ur solution bonds pretty well, I’d bet adding paint would help even more in some applications? Even rubber paint like on exterior walls or just around the foundation where the materials meet would greatly help in bonding and water proofing if needed? I’ve got so many different building ideas, I pretty much been building my whole life! And you are definitely on to a huge breakthrough? God knows the world needs it as our so calls LEADERS shaft the system in order to jack up material cost just to manipulate the masses? Good job 👏🏼 and thanks for sharing!!!!
So agree with comment, we got huge problems with not accepting better and affordable build types and dropping information on the issue here, because it will get worse. So a lot of people dont know in 2000 a failing UK company made deals with US Housing Authorities this is why we got huge ICC build code restrictions which really is just an old boys club that fills up friends of friends wink, wink pockets and they used a CA law firm to network throughout the country to use legal contraints on the public as a private legal advisory board to congressional members ONLY and their plan is by 2030 to have secured worldwide ICC codes by this once FAILING UK company as they boast publically their profit potential. US is based on the rights and freedoms of common man to own land, to build a homestead of choice. How we let a FAILING UK company come in here to restrict affordable modes of building on faked out "its for your safety" bull is an insult to Americans who are suppose to have freedom but someone has learned how to push profit agendas and override American Constitutional Rights and we truly need to wake up here as we have forfeited common sense, ease of build types for homeowners that make sense to be sold out on wasteful, expensive no longer affordable of main stream Americans, it has to stop! Ive seen absolute genius ways to build and the people behind it are who we should support as they evolved from human needs not how much can I make.
Aircrete will contract. Easily 1" each direction. Both aircrete and styrofoam have bad hygroscopic qualities. In Finland we had bricks that sandwiched styrofoam block between concrete slabs. Nowadays styrofoam has been replaced with XPS. This material WILL collect water from air. And without rebar that would be absolutely not by code in EU. Hygroscopic point of view painted stucco is also one of worst choices for outside surfaces. In Finland that shed would not survive many seasonal cycles as moisture from inside would be driven by vapor pressure to the walls, retained by XPS balls and stucco-paint combo and then ice would make micro cracks to/near outer surface of the block.
@@Dancorcoran68 the code doesn’t always exist. The county where I’m building now has no inspectors, you literally buy permit for footprint and they don’t care about anything else. Texas, Dacotas and some other states don’t have those neither I think.it all depends on the county you are building at I guess. Rebar is super cheap compared to the concrete. I always use plenty :) in this case though with aircreate, rebar wouldn’t help I think :)
Mika I read some Nordic country had a ton of pine tar they’d cover structures with. Sure stucco probably wouldn’t work in a country with a ton of snow, but look at the southwest In the US. The Pueblo Native American cities literally are something like Adobe that’s existed for a thousand years, well the one settlement. They also get little water. Obviously someone shouldn’t build a house or structures with this styrofoam method, but it looks like it worked for him. Seems like he did mention someone could pour concrete and then just pour this styrofoam mix later for insulation. It’d probably work fine for a horse shed or chicken coop for what’s worth. If you can get styrofoam for free that’s a hell of a lot cheaper material wise then buying concrete especially if it’s just a garden shed or something.
@@rocketsmall4547 I’ve never seen it done this way. wax is def good to remove hairs from my chest :) bitumen is often applied to concrete to waterproof it You know while back I saw people building with papercreate. Take a bunch of paper, shrink it or get it wet, then mix with concrete and place in your forms. I even saw a guy using his old washer for that. Paper is free, all you need is to add Portland cement. A friend is building a house with rammed earth. The technique is super old but the structure will be really strong too. The traditional hollow cinder blocks are very strong too and depending of where you are in USA can find them 1$ a piece. If you have heard of the ‘three little pigs’ fairy tale might consider something stronger than papercreate :)
In your other video that shows your shredder machine, I noticed your foam gets everywhere and clings to everything. The best way to help eliminate the static when grinding the foam is to just mist it with water occasionally. This makes clean up so much easier and quicker. I regularly cut 2 lb density EPS on my CNC router table and I keep a spray bottle of water near by when I clean up the shavings and dust after cutting. You may be able to hook up a ring of fine atomizers around the inside housing of your blade and wet the foam slightly while cutting. You're going to be adding water anyways, so having wet styrofoam shouldn't be a problem in your mix.
DesignCutters I have been thinking about doing this and glad to hear you confirm it is a good idea. I am thinking of ways to shred and fully contain the shredded styrofoam so it does not go everywhere.
There are wattle and daub houses in England over 700 years old. When I saw you using this material to fill a void it reminded me of wattle and daub construction. Great video. I subscribed.
@@DarkLinkAD that's why architects say that you've got to make the roof and the base.... Head and feet.... Dry....... well and the rest takes care of itself.
I grew up in Germany and we used a similar material to coat houses on the outside in the 80's and 90's. The material was delivered by a bulk tanker and blown in our silo on site. We used Putzmeister's Gipsomat to mix it and spray it against the wall. It was another option to insulate. Most of the times we installed several inches of Styrofoam panels to the outside and than used the fibermesh with a skim coat and than the stucco finish. I think Knauf and Sto were some of the companies that provided that material. In the 60's and 70's they used the air crete panels for walls in commercial buildings and schools too. I remember seeing some remnants of those in my dad's storage yard in the 70's and 80's from old projects.
This is great I would really like to see a demonstration of this creating a DIY SIPs panel. You could even insert pvc conduit as you pack for wire runs in the walls
I would suggest trying a mix with fiberglass fibers in the mix as well. It's used with concrete furniture and counter tops. It may add the reinforcement needed to stiffen up the vertical slabs.
What he's showcasing is low weight, low cost, high thermal resistance, high yield efficiency building material. Fiberglass fibers are expensive vs recycled Styrofoam and fiberglass fiber is not a low weight product if used in solid mass structural rigidity applications. The weight of the fiberglass webbing used on surface applications herein is justified because of the need for long term structural integrity and durability. You wouldn't want to leave this product as an exposed raw surface due to the high styro content. Glass fibers and even steel fibers are used in cementeous applications already, but they are not cheap, and the increase weight dramatically.
Thanks for all your good experimentation and innovation! Also, for removing so much STYROFOAM from landfills & encouraging others to do likewise.. Great work!
How would one dispose of styrofoam aircrete once it reaches it's end of life? Would this type of aircrete be able to be recycled the same way concrete would be, or does the added strofoam mean it needs to be taken to the landfill? What are the consequences of leaving styrofoam aircrete to decay when abandoned onsite? I dont mean to be a negative nancy, just wondering what the net lifetime impact of this would be.
This is a very ingenious way to build economically while reducing energy needs and also helping the environment by recycling. It’s amazing how Steven is thinking outside the “box” and providing so much benefit.
@@tubester4567 I said the same thing. I've been building for 31 years and seismic, high wind, and flood plane codes have changed several times since I started. Depending on where you live snow load might also be an issue
Absolutely fantastic. I'm in South Africa and here we have massive problems with lack of housing. I'm sure this is going to be such an awesome help. Thank you so much for sharing your experience
Australia had a science diy programe on Ms tv in the 1980's on this very concept. So did the BBC.. They did build with this product, how ever they discovered that Styrofoam had the same electrical charge as Portland cement. I think it was a - charge. But the 2 products repelled each other, making the final structure strength compromised. They had to modify the Styrofoam to have a + charge for the 2 products to come together. Not as easy as it sounds. But from memory they achieved it. I like your way of thinking. Your sure considered all concepts here. Well done. Im subscribed
So the negative charge was stronger than the adhesive properties of the concrete? I guess if it weren't mixed well, like clumping of the Styrofoam, I could see that being an issue...
Hemp is supposed to carry an electric charge, but I have not been able to determine if it is +ve or -ve ... but hemp has been used in concrete mixes so I would tend to think it is +ve charged and might be useful for Stephen to experiment with. It is a great growing plant and thereby not only would he be styrofoam recycling, but also carbon sequestering at the same time. Perhaps a local college or university might have a engineering program that could help with formulations?
In some European countries styrocrete is written in construction code they graded it from structural light concrete to just fireproof insulation. The technology they developed is not a secret that's why so many companies make blocks out of this material Earth block, Perfect block ,Legacy block ...
I wonder if placing a couple long-haired CATS in large totes of the processed sytrofoam - to play and tumble around - might help in discharging or dissipating the electrical charge of the material. I have observed that very effect after having received merchandise in large boxes packed with styrofoam "peanuts". Initially, the cats attract most all of the peanuts to their fur, and after a while of play, the peanuts stop sticking to them. If one is unfortunate enough to have only Union (or otherwise just plain LAZY) cats available to them, stirring them around inside the totes might be accomplished with a broom. Utilizing a couple of cans of anti-static fabric spray on the cats fur might possibly also help.
I added styrofoam to my concrete mix when I was making large flower pots. The reg concrete pots I made was just so heavy and this was my solution, although I found working with styrofoam a bit messy, the static stick is no joke.
@@jillsmith5687 It has been years and I didnt have an exact ratio but it was a fair amount, I could easily see styrofoam throughout the mix. I would try making small batches to get the consistancy you like. FYI too much strofoam will impact the intergrity of the peice so if you need it to be strong add less. Also its best to seal or paint the final product bc you will see the styrofoam. I gave mine a good sanding and stained it to look like tree bark.
Seems like you could pour a floor and then tip up wall panels, complete with rebar and pre-installed wood nailing ribs. Medium sized tractor for the lift. Really nice video, thanks for sharing.
I love your creativity! In coming up with the whole styrofoam idea in the first place, then imagining different ways to use it, and finally I think my favorite idea was the lawnmower shredder! 😄
I have a few ideas for you. 1) Look at nylon Bird Netting. It comes in giant sizes to go over fruit trees to keep birds out. It is also used to keep Hawks away from chickens. You might be able to use it instead of the fiber meshing. 2) Look a heat shrinkable plastic that is used to cover boats for winter storage. Now if you utilize old fashioned chair webbing/bird net/ +heat shrinkable plastic, you can heat shrink the plastic down onto a complex form. I once made a tailbox for my recumbent bike for loaded touring using chloroplast strips (like a basket) and the heat shrinkable plastic. The tailbox turned out both lightweight and aerodynamic... Once the plastic shrinks, the structure becomes drum like. 3) For complex shapes, such as roof elements, with embedded beams that are at right angles to the shape, perhaps adding a small amount of concrete hardener might allow the mix to stiffen enough to continue pouring. 4) Bird netting could also be used like sidewalk screen within the mix. Bird Netting is cheap... 5) There is a fiberglass/epoxy product that you can coat both sides of a dry stacked cement block wall. It is probably expensive, but it waterproof when used for foundations. 6) For your Arched Cabin, what if you made your arched wooden beams in a "U" shape. Now, you could put plastic on the inside of the "U". You could then place webbing/netting/heat shrink to the arched areas. You could then slip form each side. Filling the top might be problematic. You might be able split the arch and pour one side and then the other, remove the forms, and slide the two halves together. I hope these ideas help!!! KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK!!!!! Bob Cromer email: roberthcromer@gmail.com
I've used pumice-crete, which is a lot like this material, just crushed pumice instead of styrofoam, and same procedure for building walls. To keep from getting the voids under the windows, leave out the bottoms of the window frames and put a 2x4 turned on edge about 12" up from the bottom of the sides. This will support the sides while you pour and leave space to reach in thru the window opening with a trowel to pull the mix in from under the sides of the window frame. Level it off, then remove the 2x4 and add the bottom of the window frame after the mix has set up. No void to fill later.
There has been a couple of products using this type of material that was manufactured into blocks and or panels that you glued together and placed rebar in then poured concret into the center. Very fast, easy and efficient. There are many houses up to hotels made in this manner throughout the world. It works very well in regions where the temperatures are extreme, such as deserts and polar regions.
My friends used blocks with that material and poured like cinder blocks to build the foundation of their home and garage. They used rebar and poured concrete. It was a couple in their 60’s and they were doing all of the build themselves. They were VERY happy with the results.
Man, I'm amazed that you had the money, the time, the resources, the basic knowledge, the tools, the curiosity, and more importantly the will to share all that. I'm the same kind of guy buy I would definitely try this out. I can thank you enough
Hey Takes a lot of and years experimentation before Building codes would let usage. We sure need to find a place to repurpose styrofoam in any form. Excellent video
@@davidprins9401 True. I know that Mohave County allowed 300 squarefoot non-powered buildings as long as they were off the property line by 5' for years without any permitting. I'm sure they don't respond to much unless without a lot of prompting once you're out of sight from the main roads.
I thought this was the best way to go over foamcrete 3 years ago just for the simple reason of recycling styrofoam and the great economics but didn’t really see it happening so i decided it must have drawbacks like fire risk or something . So glad you did this video content. You have reignited my vision !
And Bravo to your extensive thermal-resistance testing program! A lot of effort went into that. Thank you for sharing the results. I have found rigid insulation, aircrete and epscrete to all absorb and hold significant moisture, and want to prevent that to maintain insulation - for walls that can generate condensation or for underground applications. One aircrete contractor told me that crystalline-generating waterproofers such as Xypex etc do work in Portland-cement Aircrete, but you have to wait 28+ days to see a result. I have tried including Waste Latex Paint in epscrete, which is very tough to formulate because WLP really retards the cement (interferes with hydration), but you can get it to work well and make a less-brittle more-waterproof material. And WLP is free! Many Counties give away blended pails to get rid of it.
Waste latex paint is great because it's free or cheap, but the best paint formula for mixing with concrete would likely be elastomeric, especially in climates that experience both high and low temperature extremes. I've been wanting to experiment with this.
@@JesusSaves86AB My memory is that elastomeric has more interference with cement hydration. They both do this and at high dose will cause aircrete deflation before setting, without the right accelerator. The EPS-crete is much more forgiving. I keep encouraging WLP to DIY cheapskates because it is an enormous waste product that waterproofs and extends the durability of concrete, and many Counties just give it away in pails. A lot of testing is needed to get formulations right, esp aircrete. With concrete, most work has been in New Zealand, and also Quebec, and Florida.
@SpaceCrete - Thank you, very helpful comments regarding water absorption issues of aircrete and a mention that the concrete additive Xypex, a crystal generating waterproofing product I am interested in, can work if given enough set time. Wondering if you have any thoughts regarding low-density Timbercrete, similara to "Woodcrete" developed in the 1940's by an inventor in Idaho, which I would like to use as a lightweight waterproof cement fill layer over corrugated steel structural roofing panels: Nucor type 3C-36 or 2C-36, in place of regular density concrete ? Trying to develop actually affordable SF residential housing ... at scale, using parabolic barrel vaults with a corrugated steel panel skin, following in the shadow of my hero Pier Nervi, an engineer's engineer and concrete master. SkyCiv online FEA has been very useful to pre-test a design before submitting it to our professional engineer here in Seattle. Have admired your own work with super-low-slump(?) concrete additive: Spacecrete, and hope your development work on that product is going well. Perhaps when you are at a point of dealing with VC investors (or there now) may I suggest a very good book: "Venture Deals - Be Smarter than your Lawyer and Venture Capitalist" by Brad Feld and Jason Mendelson. Can not recommend it highly enough. I gave the book to my brother the doctor who has formed a health services startup in Boston and is negotiating term sheets with VC's and their lawyers in a series-A round. He has found the book an invaluable guide during this critical phase of his young company. Full disclosure: we are a few of the SEC "fully qualified" angel investors who believe in the mission of my brother's new firm which is working to greatly improve health outcomes for patients via more focused primary care while dramatically reducing costs. -- many regards
You should add chopped glass fiber from the stucco store to your concrete it will add a ton of tensile strength. By adding these fibers to 3k psi concrete it will be well over 10k psi search this 1/2" Chopped Fiberglass Fibers
@@AbundanceBuild get a chop gun and spray it :) I bet you will be casting structural member's. That's what I want to do next. Great vids on your castings.
Love the research A couple thoughts for your next project . In flood areas you might want to blend shredded styro into concrete .so your building doesnt float away . Bags of fiberglass or nylon fibres mixed in give amazing strength drill holes then use cement board screws if you are adding drywall . Make thicker walls so theres no need to insert lumber into it for structure . Use plastic vapour barrier on your forms and they come off the wall easily and give a smooth finish . Im looking forward to uour next video
There is a concrete product called "vinyl patch/crete," and this has strips of vinyl fibers mixed into the concrete to increase the tensile strength... So, if you could find a free source of fibers and mix them in before your pour, you could probably get rid of the need for stucco.
I live in a mobile home that has a tendency to attract mold easily, and after seeing this video considering replacing interior walls and insulation with aircrete. This may be an easier fix than replacing the entire home. Don't know much about foam so will have to research more. Thanks for the video.
What about having the mold halves compress? like leaving a small gap, pack from the top, then squish the halves together with some threaded rods or something? they could maybe pass through inside some tubes, which could be either molded in place (might actually be useful for passing through the wall in some spots for wiring or something, and a round hole is easily plugged/filled anyways- Or could just be removed with the molds release agent of sorts, tap with a mallet would do it no problem. Random thought- could also hollow out length wise for reinforcement bars or conduit anyways, and have access panels to fishtape the stuff. Orrrr could use something cheap for reinforcement, cast in place. rough hewn wood poles, throwaway stuff. Also, what about a middle layer of just wire lathe or some sort of mesh for reinforcement cast in place? Thanks for this video, these things are really encouraging to me. My family rents, and at the price we do it isn't yet worth the liability carried with a home, but planning to buy land and build one day in the next few years, and I really want to find something that is reasonable DIY friendly (I'm good with heavy equipment and trades, but there are costs to specializing heavily, or having 6 different specialized trades worth of tooling) and will LAST. Think bunker. Adobe. Earthbag. Your concrete method here. Something that isn't paper and gypsum, that might last 50-60 years before being completely reskinned. Though I'm always impressed with how well wood holds up if reasonably protected. This is the sort of thing that I can use to augment other cheap structures. I have a steel quansit hutt thing for a shop, cool buildings, cheap, large, but by god they're hot, and too large to effectively cool down. this stuff could be used to fill the gaps in a minimalized version of the construction, and make it practically a bunker. I found this video looking for a reasonably flexible way to concrete over foam for a budget shower enclosure. Waterproofing is easy, getting something that looks nice and professional, and won't fail or crack is harder.
@@AbundanceBuild I hope you are able to add some rebar to a slab for a comparison on the tensile strength tests. Also was there a reason you did not use perlite and went to the eps? Thanks for doing the videos!
I would be interested in seeing how other lightweight fillers in a mix like this would perform. One that comes to mind that is super cheap and similar to Styrofoam is rice hulls. They are basically waste and are very insulative while having a high resistance to rot and fire because of their high silica content. I know that rice hulls can be used as blown insulation that does not pack down due to weight if treated with chemicals or diatomaceous earth to prevent insects from nesting in it. It has slightly less insulative value than cellulose or fiberglass blown insulation, but is is just as light and far cheaper.
@Knightswithoutatable I like your Rice Hull idea. This could be a possibility in our area in the Philippines as well. Styrofoam is more challenging to get access to here in the Philippines. Good Luck! Greg
Wooden studs are ok if one wraps them in plastic first so the water doesn’t sucks out from the mix into the wood. That is how we make some bathroomfloors in Sweden if the floor beams are way too chopped up by plumbing and electrical drill holes. We buy a ready product like this ruclips.net/video/GGRMXYPlwps/видео.html
@@mackemacchiato3238 The wood would be slow to dry if it did absorb water from the drying cement, but that seems like it would be an issue of shrinkage and warpage from the water, rather than concerns for rot. A lot of people think rot is caused by it getting wet. But rot occurs only by repeated wet then dry cycles MANY times. Even a handful of cycles won't cause rot to cause any structural issue. The fungus that makes wood rot only thrives at a specific moisture content, which is why the wood "swinging" through that % repeatedly enables rot. It's why a wood fence post will rot off right at the ground before anywhere else: that is the most frequent spot on the post where it cycles from wet to dry over and over. "Dry rot" is not a thing, despite old timers referring to it. Either constantly dry, or constantly wet, you'll get no rot. The wet version has been in evidence for 100 years at, for example, the St. Marks church in Venice supported by wood pilings driven into the mud that have never rotted.
@stephen Williams - Hi Steve, enjoyed watching your new discovery using shredded styro foam and the sections you are creating with membrane and stucco. I believe this a big game changer. However you mentioned some of the setbacks in applying your method to constructing domes. I am pleased to tell that I have been working on innovative approaches to dome construction using hexagons. Also I believe that I have cracked the problem with the curved characteristic of domes. My new designs produce hexagons with right angles and the curve is created with angled shims added during assembly of dome. This means lots of right angled hexagons being produced quicker and easier by lesser trained operatives and the dome size is not restricted to component size because the hexagons can be added and subtracted according to space needs. When my 3D cad drawing is complete I will make it available for viewing. Thanks for inspiring efforts. Joe of UK
@@AbundanceBuild - @Stephen Williams - Hi Stephen, just completed one set of pics using tinker cad (sketchup wasn't working for me) and I have sent a bunch of jpegs to a friend who has the resources to build my dream dome. I would like to share these with anyone interested. I haven't checked for patents and I am not looking to earn anything from this However I hope no one else steals, patents and prohibits others from using it. I have seen others involved in dome design get very tetchy about their patents. I will try and find a way to convey this info hopefully without YT interfering. Thanks to you and Shepherds of Truth for your response. Regards Joe of UK
Steve, you're a flippin' legend. Really inspiring! Love the recycled materials aspect -- trash is an underrated resource. God bless you and your family!
Too bad the end product cannot be recycled. Styrofoam can be recycled, concrete aswell, the 2 shouldn't be mixed, because now it can only go to landfill.
I'll tell you for years I've always considered waste products as potential building products I mean look at what Mike pillow did to make a million dollar business he went to these memory foam companies and picked up their waste to which he uniformly shredded or tour to which he inserted into a pillow case which then would yield him a $40 profit and from what I understand he was able to get this product for free I mean how many products required zero dollars
Breathtaking! Awesome, inspiring, and easy! I'm rewatching this a few times to let some of the details soak in. I have a foam gen. but was stuck on how to do walls and floors. And you showed the way to do that and attic/truss insulation with structural rigidity. I have been worried about chaos Specifically, after severe weather events. The debris all flocked in pink insulation (hazardous), as well as any surviving living trees, etc. Often spelling destruction of them when clean up commences. Now, with Aircrete and your instruction, you've eased my conscious about events yet unseen.
Stephan, have you heard of Performwall or RastraBlock? I have built over 150 custom homes with these materials... brilliant materials, developed by Engineering Professors at Tecnologico de Monterrey, in Monterrey, MX. These are hybrid concrete + 2nd generation styrofoam blocks. The styrofoam is collected from electronics assembly plants along the MEX-US border... it's free, and 2nd generation, which reduces offgassing by 80-90%. The blocks are 10' long, either 15" or 30" wide, and can be 8/10/12/14 inches thick. The blocks are poured in factories under controlled conditions, so very dimensionally consistent and stable. The 10" thick blocks deliver a structure with R36 insulation. The blocks are super easy to build with... we can frame a floor of a large house in 2 days... another 5 days to place concrete to interior cells (both vertical and horizontal at 15" on-center). There is much more to tell, but my point is... no need to reinvent the wheel... it has already been done with both residential and commercial structures in place for 20 years now.
I think you've been inhabiting my head! I've been looking at aircrete, hempcrete, and gothic arch building for the past few years and slowly formulating a plan to do a tiny house. Very interested to see the final product
Aloha 🌺 from northern Germany. Thank you so much for sharing your experience with your self made aircrete and the results. For me (as a german) your english is easy to understand, because your pronouncation is very clear. So i thnik we´ll try it out... 🙏🥰
One method that would be good for someone trying to build like this alone, is instead of doing whole walls, make interlocking blocks. Kind of like those you see on some road construction projects. The size of which would be 3'-4' long by 1.5' wide and high. The size could be adjusted for whatever weight you have the capability to handle. I am curious to know what your mix weighs when cured per cubic foot.
@@RollinShultz Almost nothing. Don't build walls with this and put a roof on it. Long-term the expanded polystyrene is no better than air and without any other proper binding/strength substrate, walls built with this, if they're under constant pressure, will fail. Stucco is absolutely not a way to strengthen anything, it's just a finish. Make decoration with this kind of aircrete, by all means, but please, never ever, ever use this to build anything that puts lives in danger if/when it fails.
@@tomteatom You are right that stucco is not the way to strengthen but latex cement on fiberglass mesh that is a 1 centimeter thick shell is the way to strengthen it and it is incredibly strong.
Stephen a couple of suggestions: 1 - Compare the Expensive roofing mesh you have been using with the economical woven polyester landscape fabric -- I believe they are extremely similar. 2- Burlapcrete uses non-shrink grout and a bonding agent to make an extremely durable exterior surface. That would save you the cost of the plastic or the OSB.
Rodney which landscape fabric did you have in mind? I am finding several fabrics. The fiber mesh I am using is woven with good size holes in it to allow the mortar to penetrate throughout. I am using Boen 4.5 ounce 36 inch x 150ft from Home Depot. Buying 6 rolls at a time costs $36 per roll. $0.08/sq ft. Burlap is coming in higher than that from I am seeing.
@@stephenw1892 I compared the weave of the polyester roofing fabric recommended by Domegaia to woven landscape fabric. ...not the spun. Sounds like your $36 is an option I need to investigate.
What did you mean by roofing mesh? The metal mesh? I'm looking into burlapcrete now. What if Stephen would have put sand in his styrocrete to make it strong like his stucco layer?
What an awesome build! Great ideas for repurposing styrofoam and keeping one less thing out of the landfill. Please do videos on your tools you have created. Super job and I can't wait to see what's next.
If people were really interested in keeping things out of the landfill, they would ban plastic made products and go back to metal and glass like they used to.
Cool experiment. I'm very curious as to how this material would perform in the role of prefab roof panels. If it's light, thick and rigid, it'd be interesting if solar arrays could be mounted or integrated on them without the posts penetrating all the way through the barrier. Fine sands and silts can be obtained from bulk sediment with suspension sluices and sifting frames. Basaltic sediment may even reduce emissions from the curing. Frayed tarpaulins and retired agricultural polymer netting are probably a good source for reinforcement fibers. Please protect yourself with respiratory PPE or engineering controls so that your interesting experiments may continue for a long time.
That’s a great idea. The mounting hardware could be fully integrated into the panel that way. It would still need a durable and waterproof top surface. If you used a meltable PC or polymer it would surround the hardware stems.
we used to work for a restaurant chain building the restaurants. The walkin freezers were built onsite using premade foam panels using 4x8 sheets of OSB on the inside and out. the osb hung over each edge of the foam about 1/12” so you could screw the panels together by screwing thru the foam into the next overlapping osb panel. This is one way you could make roof panels with aircrete as well! I would definitely use the correct supports underneath ! Thats where a good engineer or architect comes in! I am a firm believer in that buildings have to be constructed so they are SAFE!
Nice nod to the guys I've followed for a few years. Nice seeing your innovation! I think you found the perfect material (in conjunction with rebar and stucco) to build a dome with. Now I'm stoked!
Anyone building boats out of aircrete these days? I been thinking about trying to make a shed that could float and be lightweight so that I can put it on a trailer when I find some land to buy. I'm in Bradenton Florida. I have watched all the foamcrete and cindercrete vids on youtube from all over the world. It's amazing what people come up with and this video make me want to start experimenting. Thank you for the inspiration
Whats the build? I want to build rooftop desk since house is on hill with LA skyline/ Hollywood sign 20 mile in distance. Sunset!! Or 4foot wide 3deep length the side of house no one goes by.
I don't know that I would trust aircrete/foamcrete for any thing other then dome or infill structures by itself, even with the tension skin. Consider adding some post and beams for the weight and a shear wall system with enough linear feet for the over head weight of the second story. There are formulas online to figure that out. That upper floor is going to rack the hell out of those walls in a big quake or heavy winds. I've done shear wall systems retrofitting and I worry your walls will not provide any support and fail. A cross shaped system in the middle of the structure "could" provide your shear wall system and hold the weight "if" the slab is think enough for anchor and uplift weight, or you could also pour a cross shaped footing deep enough.
@max Do you have such a tool or formula to figure out how to best ensure the structural integrity? Could you please post the link to your results or similar? I really like this way of building aircrete and its potential for R value and other reasons for multiple climates and how it could help so many communities globally. However, we need to make sure we are all creating buildings that can last test of time or its really a waste of time/money at best and at worst it could be life threatening.
@@mrbizi5652 If you can build a good a good and accurate dome the shape will become the structural element. You have to have a good textile reinforcing layer both inside and outside of the dome. Atleast 1/4inch thick really strong reinforced cement. The blocks need to be shaped well, better then what you see online to get good joints. Some work has been done with a dual air form and pouring aircrete between the layers. Another option is to go with a styrofoam cement and spray an air form then cover with reinforcing fabric. In my opinion, no one has come really close to perfecting an aircrete dome just yet. Getting close though. Another option would be to use aircrete as an infill for insulation/wall sides that would be supplemented by a strong frame system. Again, the out layers need to be reinforced or you could just push through the wall. There is also a system where a round wall is poured and a light weight roof is added. I'm working on a dome system myself, I'm still undecided between bricks or airform. The other issue I see with allot of the domes being built is poor foundations. Its very hard to cut corners and expect it to last
I will say this guys idea of using aircrete with the styrofoam is really innovative, just have to use it within its correct parameters. I think he was ok with the first story(depending on the roof system) but the second story added some challenges. Nothing that can't be over come but it needs to be addressed. Still, he has some really good ideas. The mower/shredder looks like it works really well.
That's a much more appropriate use for the material. Building a house with it is beyond dangerous and will 100% fail and most likely hurt everyone inside.
This is outstanding. I was wondering, to make a curved form, make the jig as you did, but instead of plastic use housewrap and then spray expanding foam over it to give it a coating that sets rigid. this would be your interior, then you could just pack your styrofoam aircrete onto the outside, bottom up like you are building with cob, and trowel it smooth as you go. The inside could be plastered. Do you think that would work out?
One of the best aspects of aircrete is that it is fireproof. What happens when you put a torch to this styrofoam-crete ? The skin of mesh and stucco on the outside may protect the styrofoam-crete for a while, but heat conducts through stucco pretty quick. Will the wall fall apart as the styrofoam in your mix melts down ?
is fireproof if mix correctly here in AZ there is 2 companies that sells block made out of EPS an cement ruclips.net/video/YleZsVuYr3E/видео.html ruclips.net/video/uZJwhOo_mT4/видео.html
Your insurance factor is really amazing, so your getting average of 12.5 R rating from a 3 1/2" wall. That is so close to a regular insulted stick wall. It truly is amazing. Did you do a compression rating in PSF to see what is the average load you can use before failure of the wall?
Hey Stephen. Great content. Looking forward to the A frame shed. I make concrete planters using Portland, Sand, and Perlite. The perlite is a great light weight alternative.
I've tried this portland/styrofoam bead combination and find it wanting. I think it needs more development. I have used portland/perlite with better, but still structrally weak results. We also should take note of the fact that Australia has built a good number of homes with a portland/sawdust mix. I don't want to rely on fiberglass reinforced surface bonding stucco for structural strength. It's a good product, but it's expensive. What I'm suggesting is that 1.the size of the styrofoam pieces should be experimented with. I'm suggesting as a starting point making them the size of the perlite grains - much smaller than the beads, and 2. other additives should be tried. I'm wondering here if plastic bottles could be shredded to make them fiber - like. I agree that the right combination of materials would be useful in projects. It would be marketable in bags, and it would help us with our landfill issues.. The video shows a good direction, but I encourage the continuation of research
Fiber can be obtained from packaging stripes. There is a lot of this on places where huge packages are unpacked. These stripes holds sometimes a ton of Weihgt. I use It in concrete
@@MsToshinori ... As someone who recycles, there is one plastic that few centers take. It's these translucent plastic milk jugs. If it were shredded into 1 1/2 inch fibers it might make a good additive for concrete and maybe asphalt.. I am sure your packaging strips are also plentiful and hard to recycle..
Nice video Steve. Always wonder how that styrofoam could be used. Have you had any panels load tested? The arch is cool. Create a flexible template/tape to attach to top of the arc mark the blocking zones for nailing/screwing sheathing. Have you checked fire codes for toxic gases if the structure gets HOT. Wondering if fire personnel would enter a structure if on fire. I really like your creative thinking/process. Good luck. Looking forward to your videos. I watched a home being built in the early 70s. Today it is called The Flintstone House in San Mateo County, CA. It has been the center of many a controversy. Check it out. Neighbors have recently raised hell regarding the theme in the yard along with the colors. It’s the only organically shaped home on the surrounding hills. Everything else is “boxes on stilts “. There were many leaking problems with this home. Today’s materials would have been a great help. Wonder how this technology would work on a Buckminster Fuller geodesic dome structure. Create some panels that can be bolted together. 👍
We want to build a round house using 4X8 3/4" plywood that we collected years ago from trade shows. We have been looking for a method to make the home insulated and fireproof. We need to learn the "recipe" for the cement, the aircrete and the styrofoam Mix, so we can Mix it into lego blocks and stack them to insulate the outside of the boards in a circle we use to build the circular home. On top of the home we will build a deck as a ceiling inside the home, roof and deck above the home. On that Roof/deck we will add a Smaller dome and attach it to the deck, so there is a sitting space where we can eventually relax in the evening and look at the view. This is great info. Cannot wait to see what you create so we can get the exact mix and make some stuff ourselves..!!
What was your mix design? Would it work with hemp fiber of various types loose netting or fabric for added strength? I admit hemp is organic material, but like rape bugs and pests won't eat it and avoid it and once encapsulated in concrete it won't rot. Like air bubbles hemp and graphene are tubular, hold air and are strong. Would it work with a non-autoclaved mix design? What about with closed cell foam or closed cell copolymer foam? Have you thought about using mgo or fiber cement board and making 4x8 panels that could interlock to eliminate the voids beneath your windows? Did you have to use a waterproofing admixture in powder or liquid to your mix design? You shouldn't have to use stucco wire to get it to stick to the outside of it as concrete attaches to concrete and the use of either hemp netting embedded or mgo/Hardie board sheeting should provide the added strength without using stucco wire. I realize the objective is strong, lightweight and low cost, but if it would work with the hemp netting coupled with a closed cell copolymer resin the strength and R value would increase sufficiently to offset the minor increase in costs. I would even say mere shredded hemp paper would add the strength factor alone - you are aware they make bulletproof vests out of it. I think another possibility would be graphene powder to increase the strength and R value as well. I'm disabled and can only posit the questions, alternatives and possibilities.
Wow, great ideas! The use of hemp netting really grabbed me. If it were you what size mesh would you use? I'm thinking of making panels a-la The Honey Do Carpenter and could the hemp netting replace the hardware cloth he uses? I'm looking at this for a tiny house on wheels and wondering how it would handle road movement. Any ideas you have would be greatly appreciated.
Really beautiful piece, and I love the way you explained everything in detail. Can you please do us a video of how to make the styrofoam shredder? I'll love to see that. Thanks
You could make medium to large blocks and the cement use to adhere them to one another would provide additional structural support. Probably easier than having to pack walls. As easy as they are to cut, that solves the need for too many different size block forms. You could take you time making a bunch of blocks and than start building. This is great and the possibilities are making my mind go into a frenzy. I've been mentally working on a dome using large triangular shaped forms. You make one form and keep pouring over and over. You could even have several sectional breaks to make it easier to pack. Having lived in So. Florida all my life, wind resistance is crucial, much less the energy efficiency advantages. A dome home in the Tampa area even withstood a massive tidal surge. The exterior lath and stucco becomes your life long roof with periotic painting and maintenance. I though about basalt rebar, due to its flexibility but I don't think it would be needed with this material. They shoot gunnite on the interior and exterior of some monolithic domes, so that would provide extremely good structural support.
Very good idea, thanks for your time and researching! I was thinking from the outside we need facade, of course there is lot of ways to do it but..., If we vibrate the concrete then we get nice surface. Now there is lot of products on the market, there are some fluids which you can spray on the concrete and it is water-resistant later and you can be sure that your concrete wall doesn't take moisture in winter days. After that you can choose some paints do decorate it.
I will use this to insulate my roof. It is exactly what I was looking for. The lightness will be perfect. SW, how is the sound insulation compared to aircrete?
I recently built a raised bed/grow box with this same method. I used silicone in a caulking tube, to create fake stonework joints by placing beads of silicone on the outer form, in the shape of random stone. ( don't have to be neat. Can also smear some in the field to create high/low spots.) I was very happy with the results. I randomly threw brown dye on the surface, painted the joints black dye , and it looked so much like an old railroad bridge type of finish, it could have fooled the best. The only reservation I have about the Styrofoam is having the pellets get loose in the environment; because some birds might mistake them for food, and it can kill them.
It would be a good idea to perform some basic material strength measurements so that the properties of this material can be used to engineer the structure. What is the compression strength? Beams generally fail in tension? What is the tensile strength? You could estimate these using your sample panel and a few tests.
Please, please someone please do this test. I don’t know how to do these tests but I understand why they are necessary and would really like to see the results so this practice can be adopted more widely.
Sam, I am thinking through how to do a variety of tests. I am moving towards using the wood truss design i showed nailed together with scrap 2x material from building sites. This will give you the ability to pour the walls and roof in one monolithic pour. This will give it tremendous more strength and nailing surfaces to screw sheetrock, siding and metal roofing.
@@AbundanceBuild California needs something like this for the fire retardant facto, but the issue with earthquakes always comes up with concrete materials. How would styrocrete be reinforced to be safe in an earhquake?
Very cool!! I’ve been interested in aircrete for a long time I just have too many projects to complete yet and a warm shop before I can start experimenting. Subscribed and looking forward to future videos.
@@AbundanceBuild Have ever consider using "glass foam" aggravate in concrete pour for a slab? BTW there are few companies that make blocks of of this material that is used as an ICF. And I have seen a structural engineer test wrapping fiberglass mats, a inside failing CMU wall to reinforce it. But there is the 1st time I have seen these build ideas combined in there manner. One last question was there any issue with you local code enforcement signing off on it? That seemed like the major road block in it being used more.
@@AbundanceBuild ruclips.net/video/r-pI724I_tE/видео.html . Really easy and cheap. I do ecological housing in Uruguay. Hot outside, and inside cool with no AC.
Hello, can you write in the comment the amounts you have used?, are you using for example water by weight and styrofoam by volume? also what kind of foaming agent used with what kind of air ratio/pressure? also could you show the styrofoam shredder in more detail ? Thanks!
Two minutes into your video I knew I would subscribe to your channel. Great video well explained. Now I'm headed to see what other videos of yours I can find. Thanks
Nice presentation of very solid content! Well thought out. Thanks for sharing it! What I am missing is how the second story is attached - so it does not end up in Oz?
Thanks for the feedback. I bolted a top plate with long screws into the top of the aircrete and the floor sits on that and interior walls that are all nailed together.
I watched a bunch of aircrete videos before and had come to the conclusion that it wasn't really worth the effort. I saw this video in my feed and almost skipped over it. this way of doing it seems to be the most practical, repeatable, and easy method. this has changed what I was thinking for my cabin design that said, this cannot be a structural material. first, bricks, concrete block etc. do not have their strength judged by "it held it up". building materials need to withstand failures in weird directions and for all kinds of reasons. second, structural materials cannot have catastrophic failure modes. that's why rebar is in concrete, so what when the concrete fail, the rebar holds the structure together. so, if anyone is thinking about building with this, you should build a structurally sound building FIRST, then use this to fill in the walls. something like traditional stick framing then filling in the wall cavities with this stuff would work well.
Maybe with Post and Beam style Buildings, as well! But, he did mention you could form blocks, like "Concrete Blocks, that have 2 Holes in them, for Pouring Concrete of whatever PSI you Need, for Vertical Columns, that are then the Structural Support, while the Aircrete Blocks from the Insulation, AND stabilization of the Columns! Using Vertical Rebar, tied to 1/2" Square Metal Mesh Construction Cloth, in those holes, should be a Good Core to the Columns!
I had already planned on building a tool shed out of aircrete this spring after watching other videos. i am glad i watched this one as i didn't know about having to do the mesh and plaster on the outside. i live in Michigan so we will see how it holds up to the seasonal changes here. e.g. this past winter our weather changed in one week: mon 20f, tue 50f, wed 45f, thu 15f, fri 35f
Great job and explanation looking forward to seeing a panel completed with the fiber mesh. Honeydew carpenter built a great tool to get the stucco on your walls fast! I'd like to make panels for some raised garden beds.
I would be concerned about the compressive strength of the walls especially with the 2nd level which increases the load. And wonder if it would pass the building code.
That's what I've been wondering as soon as I got a few minutes in. There's no way he's allowed to have this building and he's lucky he hasn't gotten found out yet.
@Lucas Blizzard Some counties/townships/cities have much more strict codes than others as we know but compressive strength is in IRC code book I believe
What is the structural strength of this material? I would suspect this loses strength vs. regular concrete. How well does it stand up to bending loads? Another concern that comes to mind is that the production of shredded styrofoam makes microplastic waste. It would be important to gather up all the little bits and make sure those don't end up polluting the environment, otherwise the production of styrofoam filled concrete could potentially be problematic.
That defeats the purpose of 'lightweight', 'insulating', 'cheap' and offers no environmental benefit unlike keeping styrofoam out of the landfills. Sealing up biodegradable hemp fibers in concrete is a waste compared to everything else you could do with the fibers including just composting them.
@@MA-mh1vs I used to think the same. Dig into hempcrete a bit and see if you change your mind. I do like this build to capture styrofoam but I want to see aircrete and hemp mixed to see the results.
@@MrFarva85 Just looked into it and 2 downsides that stood out was 1) Adding an extra $60 per square foot to the building cost. Compared to reduced cost with using free styrofoam 2) The R value is 2.08 which is less than aircrete at 2.5 and no where close to this guys 3.5. Now as far as strength goes concrete is at most 17, aircrete is 8.5, foamcrete is 4.5 and hempcrete is a .5 - 3.5 and can not be used for load bearing walls at that strength. Reinforced with stucco it may hold up to being used as a load bearing walls like this guys have. I can not compare strength with this guys mix but it probably is no stronger than hempcrete based on the high styrofoam content but is reinforced with the stucco and is crazy lightweight being mostly foam and is even holding a second floor. I just do not see the benefit of using hemp over styrofoam, the styrofoam is free, insulates better and it helps the environment by keeping it out of landfills.
WOW! Love the content and all the info. Thanks for sharing. Typical aircrete recipe is about 150-160 PSI. What do you think you're getting on your mix design?
Thank you. It is lower than aircrete because of the styrofoam. It has good compressive strength as you can tell from holding up the second floor. The strength comes from the fiber mesh stucco. The wall is very flimsy until that is applied.
Interesting idea. One thing that occurs to me is that expanded polystyrene (that's actually what you're using ... styrofoam is a different product) is very flammable. Have you tested the fire resistance of this stuff?
Hi Stephen. Once again great video. Little known in some circles ( blue ?) but ferro-cement boats were a resource in WWII when materials were scarce. I think your aircrete/polystyrene composite has the potential to make a great boat in the hands of an experienced boat builder.
In Engineering School we used styrofoam and fly ash (coal ash) to design and build a concrete canoe for competition. It was pretty light weight it only took 4 people to lift it, very similar principal here. Reduce the portland by replacing it with fly ash. I'm always looking for building alternatives, I have done many non conventional builds. 24x24 clear span with 9ft walls all from white cedar pallets simple to insulate, wire, and very strong. Held 8 inches of snow and the ice that followed.
Good Job👍!
Great to hear! How waterproof was your canoe and what would you recommend?
Fly ash is a by product of Coal power plants. Due to 8 years of an administration coal plants are being shut down. The concrete became more expensive due to the scarcity of fly ash in U.S. Fly Ash in concrete is being replaced with something else. The domino effect! Fly ash was a filler ingredient in concrete to take up space and increase volume.
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Sounds interesting!
People like you are the best man, number 1 you show us we can think outside the box on building a home or whatever, save money etc. And on top of that you share your knowledge with everyone for free after no telling how much R & D is rare these days.! Thank you
You're welcome!
Hi Steve I’m a builder for many years! I’ve been see and experimenting with different materials my whole life! I see ur solution bonds pretty well, I’d bet adding paint would help even more in some applications? Even rubber paint like on exterior walls or just around the foundation where the materials meet would greatly help in bonding and water proofing if needed? I’ve got so many different building ideas, I pretty much been building my whole life! And you are definitely on to a huge breakthrough? God knows the world needs it as our so calls LEADERS shaft the system in order to jack up material cost just to manipulate the masses? Good job 👏🏼 and thanks for sharing!!!!
dried out hemp stalks as an aggregate media combined with this would probably be pretty lit
@@sinvex2224 yes similar to a fiber mesh which is always used when you don’t use rebar.
Have you tried earth bag? I’ve been curious and want to try it.
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So agree with comment, we got huge problems with not accepting better and affordable build types and dropping information on the issue here, because it will get worse. So a lot of people dont know in 2000 a failing UK company made deals with US Housing Authorities this is why we got huge ICC build code restrictions which really is just an old boys club that fills up friends of friends wink, wink pockets and they used a CA law firm to network throughout the country to use legal contraints on the public as a private legal advisory board to congressional members ONLY and their plan is by 2030 to have secured worldwide ICC codes by this once FAILING UK company as they boast publically their profit potential. US is based on the rights and freedoms of common man to own land, to build a homestead of choice. How we let a FAILING UK company come in here to restrict affordable modes of building on faked out "its for your safety" bull is an insult to Americans who are suppose to have freedom but someone has learned how to push profit agendas and override American Constitutional Rights and we truly need to wake up here as we have forfeited common sense, ease of build types for homeowners that make sense to be sold out on wasteful, expensive no longer affordable of main stream Americans, it has to stop! Ive seen absolute genius ways to build and the people behind it are who we should support as they evolved from human needs not how much can I make.
Aircrete will contract. Easily 1" each direction. Both aircrete and styrofoam have bad hygroscopic qualities. In Finland we had bricks that sandwiched styrofoam block between concrete slabs. Nowadays styrofoam has been replaced with XPS. This material WILL collect water from air. And without rebar that would be absolutely not by code in EU. Hygroscopic point of view painted stucco is also one of worst choices for outside surfaces. In Finland that shed would not survive many seasonal cycles as moisture from inside would be driven by vapor pressure to the walls, retained by XPS balls and stucco-paint combo and then ice would make micro cracks to/near outer surface of the block.
Also not to code for any sort of structural application in the US under IBC or IRC without rebar
@@Dancorcoran68 the code doesn’t always exist. The county where I’m building now has no inspectors, you literally buy permit for footprint and they don’t care about anything else. Texas, Dacotas and some other states don’t have those neither I think.it all depends on the county you are building at I guess. Rebar is super cheap compared to the concrete. I always use plenty :) in this case though with aircreate, rebar wouldn’t help I think :)
Mika I read some Nordic country had a ton of pine tar they’d cover structures with. Sure stucco probably wouldn’t work in a country with a ton of snow, but look at the southwest In the US. The Pueblo Native American cities literally are something like Adobe that’s existed for a thousand years, well the one settlement. They also get little water.
Obviously someone shouldn’t build a house or structures with this styrofoam method, but it looks like it worked for him. Seems like he did mention someone could pour concrete and then just pour this styrofoam mix later for insulation. It’d probably work fine for a horse shed or chicken coop for what’s worth. If you can get styrofoam for free that’s a hell of a lot cheaper material wise then buying concrete especially if it’s just a garden shed or something.
how about wax as waterproofing.
@@rocketsmall4547 I’ve never seen it done this way. wax is def good to remove hairs from my chest :)
bitumen is often applied to concrete to waterproof it
You know while back I saw people building with papercreate. Take a bunch of paper, shrink it or get it wet, then mix with concrete and place in your forms. I even saw a guy using his old washer for that. Paper is free, all you need is to add Portland cement.
A friend is building a house with rammed earth. The technique is super old but the structure will be really strong too.
The traditional hollow cinder blocks are very strong too and depending of where you are in USA can find them 1$ a piece.
If you have heard of the ‘three little pigs’ fairy tale might consider something stronger than papercreate :)
In Florida, we pour the walls in a frame that is laird out on the floor. Once dry, it is tipped up set in place. This would make it much easier!
I was about to ask about tilt up construction. I may still.
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In your other video that shows your shredder machine, I noticed your foam gets everywhere and clings to everything. The best way to help eliminate the static when grinding the foam is to just mist it with water occasionally. This makes clean up so much easier and quicker. I regularly cut 2 lb density EPS on my CNC router table and I keep a spray bottle of water near by when I clean up the shavings and dust after cutting. You may be able to hook up a ring of fine atomizers around the inside housing of your blade and wet the foam slightly while cutting. You're going to be adding water anyways, so having wet styrofoam shouldn't be a problem in your mix.
DesignCutters I have been thinking about doing this and glad to hear you confirm it is a good idea. I am thinking of ways to shred and fully contain the shredded styrofoam so it does not go everywhere.
There are wattle and daub houses in England over 700 years old. When I saw you using this material to fill a void it reminded me of wattle and daub construction. Great video. I subscribed.
Straw bales (the older one man size) make excellent walls. Pinned together with willow canes and daubed over with lime mortar, it lasts and lasts.
@@Dave5843-d9m Will rot with moisture
@@DarkLinkAD that's why architects say that you've got to make the roof and the base.... Head and feet.... Dry....... well and the rest takes care of itself.
@@DarkLinkAD no not if you dont put it directly on the ground! build a stem wall first then stack your bales!
@@StonemanRocks I dont buy it..
I like folks that focus on reclamation & end up turning ecologically terrible materials into entombed solutions. Good work
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I grew up in Germany and we used a similar material to coat houses on the outside in the 80's and 90's. The material was delivered by a bulk tanker and blown in our silo on site. We used Putzmeister's Gipsomat to mix it and spray it against the wall. It was another option to insulate. Most of the times we installed several inches of Styrofoam panels to the outside and than used the fibermesh with a skim coat and than the stucco finish. I think Knauf and Sto were some of the companies that provided that material.
In the 60's and 70's they used the air crete panels for walls in commercial buildings and schools too. I remember seeing some remnants of those in my dad's storage yard in the 70's and 80's from old projects.
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Are you talking AAC?
This is great I would really like to see a demonstration of this creating a DIY SIPs panel. You could even insert pvc conduit as you pack for wire runs in the walls
Look above it by idea
Yes, Sip's to attach to a Timber Frame / Post and Beam would be amazing
SIP EPS foamcrete panels? That could be beneficial in areas with high fire risk
Would also love to see this!
Could even include some wire for added strength
I would suggest trying a mix with fiberglass fibers in the mix as well. It's used with concrete furniture and counter tops. It may add the reinforcement needed to stiffen up the vertical slabs.
What he's showcasing is low weight, low cost, high thermal resistance, high yield efficiency building material. Fiberglass fibers are expensive vs recycled Styrofoam and fiberglass fiber is not a low weight product if used in solid mass structural rigidity applications. The weight of the fiberglass webbing used on surface applications herein is justified because of the need for long term structural integrity and durability. You wouldn't want to leave this product as an exposed raw surface due to the high styro content. Glass fibers and even steel fibers are used in cementeous applications already, but they are not cheap, and the increase weight dramatically.
@@ThirdeyedeasInc I'm not so sure styrofoam is such a great thing from the perspective of fire. Styrene emits pretty noxious fumes when burning.
You could substitute hemp fibers as a low cost alternative.
Basalt fiber is best.
@@davidprins9401 except, hemp fibers are easy to come by.
Thanks for all your good experimentation and innovation!
Also, for removing so much STYROFOAM from landfills & encouraging others to do likewise.. Great work!
How would one dispose of styrofoam aircrete once it reaches it's end of life? Would this type of aircrete be able to be recycled the same way concrete would be, or does the added strofoam mean it needs to be taken to the landfill? What are the consequences of leaving styrofoam aircrete to decay when abandoned onsite? I dont mean to be a negative nancy, just wondering what the net lifetime impact of this would be.
@@liquidfrice were do they recycle concrete?
Actually after tornado's here in TN it went all back into the landfills and proved a deadly structure
@@liquidfrice grind it up and make recycled styroaircrete.
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This is a very ingenious way to build economically while reducing energy needs and also helping the environment by recycling. It’s amazing how Steven is thinking outside the “box” and providing so much benefit.
it is but seriously people there way much more environmentally friendly ways of building. Aircrete is a great product nonetheless !
@@ottodidakt3069
Like what?
I dont like it, its weak and is very labour intensive.I dont think it will perform well in a fire, or earthquakes/flooding and natural disasters.
@@tubester4567 I said the same thing. I've been building for 31 years and seismic, high wind, and flood plane codes have changed several times since I started. Depending on where you live snow load might also be an issue
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👍🙂👍
That was a solid set of shout outs.
I’ve actually heard of the majority of the people you gave a shout out to.👍
Attribution is always good. It's how you make better wheels.
I've been following the same guys.
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Absolutely fantastic. I'm in South Africa and here we have massive problems with lack of housing. I'm sure this is going to be such an awesome help. Thank you so much for sharing your experience
Stephen is from South Africa originally! We all would love to see some relief there. Thanks for watching!
Australia had a science diy programe on Ms tv in the 1980's on this very concept. So did the BBC.. They did build with this product, how ever they discovered that Styrofoam had the same electrical charge as Portland cement. I think it was a - charge. But the 2 products repelled each other, making the final structure strength compromised. They had to modify the Styrofoam to have a + charge for the 2 products to come together. Not as easy as it sounds. But from memory they achieved it. I like your way of thinking. Your sure considered all concepts here. Well done. Im subscribed
So the negative charge was stronger than the adhesive properties of the concrete? I guess if it weren't mixed well, like clumping of the Styrofoam, I could see that being an issue...
Hemp is supposed to carry an electric charge, but I have not been able to determine if it is +ve or -ve ... but hemp has been used in concrete mixes so I would tend to think it is +ve charged and might be useful for Stephen to experiment with. It is a great growing plant and thereby not only would he be styrofoam recycling, but also carbon sequestering at the same time. Perhaps a local college or university might have a engineering program that could help with formulations?
In some European countries styrocrete is written in construction code they graded it from structural light concrete to just fireproof insulation. The technology they developed is not a secret that's why so many companies make blocks out of this material Earth block, Perfect block ,Legacy block ...
I wonder if placing a couple long-haired CATS in large totes of the processed sytrofoam - to play and tumble around - might help in discharging or dissipating the electrical charge of the material. I have observed that very effect after having received merchandise in large boxes packed with styrofoam "peanuts".
Initially, the cats attract most all of the peanuts to their fur, and after a while of play, the peanuts stop sticking to them. If one is unfortunate enough to have only Union (or otherwise just plain LAZY) cats available to them, stirring them around inside the totes might be accomplished with a broom.
Utilizing a couple of cans of anti-static fabric spray on the cats fur might possibly also help.
@@brucelarsen6650 omg🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
I added styrofoam to my concrete mix when I was making large flower pots. The reg concrete pots I made was just so heavy and this was my solution, although I found working with styrofoam a bit messy, the static stick is no joke.
Could you tell me what the mix/ratio of your styrofoam mix please Brandy; I’ve saw so many different ones ; I’d like the easiest way to do it thanks
@@jillsmith5687 It has been years and I didnt have an exact ratio but it was a fair amount, I could easily see styrofoam throughout the mix. I would try making small batches to get the consistancy you like. FYI too much strofoam will impact the intergrity of the peice so if you need it to be strong add less. Also its best to seal or paint the final product bc you will see the styrofoam. I gave mine a good sanding and stained it to look like tree bark.
See my comment above about an old science and technology show here in Australia that showed a product that solved the static problem.
If you can work with a misting fan you will be fine. My garden hose sprayer has a misting option that does great.
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Breaking new ground is always expensive and time consuming. Thanks for your time and effort.
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Seems like you could pour a floor and then tip up wall panels, complete with rebar and pre-installed wood nailing ribs. Medium sized tractor for the lift. Really nice video, thanks for sharing.
That's what I was thinking. I didn't see in the video but is he using any vibration to settle or remove air?
@@jakeledg looks like all he's using is the packer thing he made
That’s a good idea. Domegaia has been experimenting with building a wall like that they call it the flip up method or something?
Call a tilt-up wall system.
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I love your creativity! In coming up with the whole styrofoam idea in the first place, then imagining different ways to use it, and finally I think my favorite idea was the lawnmower shredder! 😄
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Love this. You look like a dad, so I'm gonna say thanks dad!
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I have a few ideas for you. 1) Look at nylon Bird Netting. It comes in giant sizes to go over fruit trees to keep birds out. It is also used to keep Hawks away from chickens. You might be able to use it instead of the fiber meshing. 2) Look a heat shrinkable plastic that is used to cover boats for winter storage. Now if you utilize old fashioned chair webbing/bird net/ +heat shrinkable plastic, you can heat shrink the plastic down onto a complex form. I once made a tailbox for my recumbent bike for loaded touring using chloroplast strips (like a basket) and the heat shrinkable plastic. The tailbox turned out both lightweight and aerodynamic... Once the plastic shrinks, the structure becomes drum like. 3) For complex shapes, such as roof elements, with embedded beams that are at right angles to the shape, perhaps adding a small amount of concrete hardener might allow the mix to stiffen enough to continue pouring. 4) Bird netting could also be used like sidewalk screen within the mix. Bird Netting is cheap... 5) There is a fiberglass/epoxy product that you can coat both sides of a dry stacked cement block wall. It is probably expensive, but it waterproof when used for foundations. 6) For your Arched Cabin, what if you made your arched wooden beams in a "U" shape. Now, you could put plastic on the inside of the "U". You could then place webbing/netting/heat shrink to the arched areas. You could then slip form each side. Filling the top might be problematic. You might be able split the arch and pour one side and then the other, remove the forms, and slide the two halves together. I hope these ideas help!!! KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK!!!!! Bob Cromer email: roberthcromer@gmail.com
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I've used pumice-crete, which is a lot like this material, just crushed pumice instead of styrofoam, and same procedure for building walls. To keep from getting the voids under the windows, leave out the bottoms of the window frames and put a 2x4 turned on edge about 12" up from the bottom of the sides. This will support the sides while you pour and leave space to reach in thru the window opening with a trowel to pull the mix in from under the sides of the window frame. Level it off, then remove the 2x4 and add the bottom of the window frame after the mix has set up. No void to fill later.
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Amazing. Clever, Creative, Cost Effective. Thank You for taking the time to make this video.
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Back in the 70s we just added a gallon of dish soap into the mixer truck and pumped it into apartments to level floors.
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There has been a couple of products using this type of material that was manufactured into blocks and or panels that you glued together and placed rebar in then poured concret into the center. Very fast, easy and efficient. There are many houses up to hotels made in this manner throughout the world. It works very well in regions where the temperatures are extreme, such as deserts and polar regions.
My friends used blocks with that material and poured like cinder blocks to build the foundation of their home and garage. They used rebar and poured concrete. It was a couple in their 60’s and they were doing all of the build themselves. They were VERY happy with the results.
@@catherinegrace2366 logic brand blocks we use in Mn all the time great product.
"Perfect block" has a few videos that show its installation.
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Man, I'm amazed that you had the money, the time, the resources, the basic knowledge, the tools, the curiosity, and more importantly the will to share all that.
I'm the same kind of guy buy I would definitely try this out.
I can thank you enough
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Hey Takes a lot of and years experimentation before Building codes would let usage. We sure need to find a place to repurpose styrofoam in any form. Excellent video
Fortunately many jurisdictions allow 200 sf detached structures.
But, lots of testing and documentation can be done in the mean time
Styrofoam is one of the few things I CANT recycle in my area 😭 A great idea for reusing it!
@@foyjamez Yes outbuildings will be the way to experiment. Or in the middle of Arizona 😂
@@davidprins9401 True. I know that Mohave County allowed 300 squarefoot non-powered buildings as long as they were off the property line by 5' for years without any permitting. I'm sure they don't respond to much unless without a lot of prompting once you're out of sight from the main roads.
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I thought this was the best way to go over foamcrete 3 years ago just for the simple reason of recycling styrofoam and the great economics but didn’t really see it happening so i decided it must have drawbacks like fire risk or something . So glad you did this video content. You have reignited my vision !
Thank you! We are in this together!
My favorite aircrete channel. Dude drops nuggets every sentence.
Haha thanks!
And Bravo to your extensive thermal-resistance testing program! A lot of effort went into that. Thank you for sharing the results. I have found rigid insulation, aircrete and epscrete to all absorb and hold significant moisture, and want to prevent that to maintain insulation - for walls that can generate condensation or for underground applications. One aircrete contractor told me that crystalline-generating waterproofers such as Xypex etc do work in Portland-cement Aircrete, but you have to wait 28+ days to see a result. I have tried including Waste Latex Paint in epscrete, which is very tough to formulate because WLP really retards the cement (interferes with hydration), but you can get it to work well and make a less-brittle more-waterproof material. And WLP is free! Many Counties give away blended pails to get rid of it.
try adding calcium chloride for faster setting
Waste latex paint is great because it's free or cheap, but the best paint formula for mixing with concrete would likely be elastomeric, especially in climates that experience both high and low temperature extremes. I've been wanting to experiment with this.
Space crete...!! Awesome reply , informative..thankers
@@JesusSaves86AB My memory is that elastomeric has more interference with cement hydration. They both do this and at high dose will cause aircrete deflation before setting, without the right accelerator. The EPS-crete is much more forgiving. I keep encouraging WLP to DIY cheapskates because it is an enormous waste product that waterproofs and extends the durability of concrete, and many Counties just give it away in pails. A lot of testing is needed to get formulations right, esp aircrete. With concrete, most work has been in New Zealand, and also Quebec, and Florida.
@SpaceCrete - Thank you, very helpful comments regarding water absorption issues of aircrete and a mention that the concrete additive Xypex, a crystal generating waterproofing product I am interested in, can work if given enough set time. Wondering if you have any thoughts regarding low-density Timbercrete, similara to "Woodcrete" developed in the 1940's by an inventor in Idaho, which I would like to use as a lightweight waterproof cement fill layer over corrugated steel structural roofing panels: Nucor type 3C-36 or 2C-36, in place of regular density concrete ? Trying to develop actually affordable SF residential housing ... at scale, using parabolic barrel vaults with a corrugated steel panel skin, following in the shadow of my hero Pier Nervi, an engineer's engineer and concrete master. SkyCiv online FEA has been very useful to pre-test a design before submitting it to our professional engineer here in Seattle.
Have admired your own work with super-low-slump(?) concrete additive: Spacecrete, and hope your development work on that product is going well. Perhaps when you are at a point of dealing with VC investors (or there now) may I suggest a very good book: "Venture Deals - Be Smarter than your Lawyer and Venture Capitalist" by Brad Feld and Jason Mendelson. Can not recommend it highly enough. I gave the book to my brother the doctor who has formed a health services startup in Boston and is negotiating term sheets with VC's and their lawyers in a series-A round. He has found the book an invaluable guide during this critical phase of his young company. Full disclosure: we are a few of the SEC "fully qualified" angel investors who believe in the mission of my brother's new firm which is working to greatly improve health outcomes for patients via more focused primary care while dramatically reducing costs.
-- many regards
You should add chopped glass fiber from the stucco store to your concrete it will add a ton of tensile strength. By adding these fibers to 3k psi concrete it will be well over 10k psi search this 1/2" Chopped Fiberglass Fibers
That's what I was thinking, I want to try that mix, I also want to make the bent dome mild he did not make.
Thanks for the suggestion. I noticed that EZ block, which is an aircrete ICF block is very hairy which means they are using fibers in the mix.
@@AbundanceBuild get a chop gun and spray it :) I bet you will be casting structural member's. That's what I want to do next. Great vids on your castings.
Runs about $10/lb. is that average
Why would tensile strength be needed for his wall panels?
@iammimic79
Love the research
A couple thoughts for your next project .
In flood areas you might want to blend shredded styro into concrete .so your building doesnt float away . Bags of fiberglass or nylon fibres mixed in give amazing strength drill holes then use cement board screws if you are adding drywall . Make thicker walls so theres no need to insert lumber into it for structure .
Use plastic vapour barrier on your forms and they come off the wall easily and give a smooth finish .
Im looking forward to uour next video
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There is a concrete product called "vinyl patch/crete," and this has strips of vinyl fibers mixed into the concrete to increase the tensile strength... So, if you could find a free source of fibers and mix them in before your pour, you could probably get rid of the need for stucco.
Fiberglass or rock wool insulation could work.
@@slaplapdog Fiberbond fiberglass concrete is what i was thinking too.
Blow insulation
Chopped fiberglass is pretty cheap
Doesn't concrete break down fibreglass?
I live in a mobile home that has a tendency to attract mold easily, and after seeing this video considering replacing interior walls and insulation with aircrete. This may be an easier fix than replacing the entire home. Don't know much about foam so will have to research more. Thanks for the video.
That sounds smart
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What about having the mold halves compress? like leaving a small gap, pack from the top, then squish the halves together with some threaded rods or something? they could maybe pass through inside some tubes, which could be either molded in place (might actually be useful for passing through the wall in some spots for wiring or something, and a round hole is easily plugged/filled anyways- Or could just be removed with the molds release agent of sorts, tap with a mallet would do it no problem. Random thought- could also hollow out length wise for reinforcement bars or conduit anyways, and have access panels to fishtape the stuff. Orrrr could use something cheap for reinforcement, cast in place. rough hewn wood poles, throwaway stuff.
Also, what about a middle layer of just wire lathe or some sort of mesh for reinforcement cast in place? Thanks for this video, these things are really encouraging to me. My family rents, and at the price we do it isn't yet worth the liability carried with a home, but planning to buy land and build one day in the next few years, and I really want to find something that is reasonable DIY friendly (I'm good with heavy equipment and trades, but there are costs to specializing heavily, or having 6 different specialized trades worth of tooling) and will LAST. Think bunker. Adobe. Earthbag. Your concrete method here. Something that isn't paper and gypsum, that might last 50-60 years before being completely reskinned. Though I'm always impressed with how well wood holds up if reasonably protected.
This is the sort of thing that I can use to augment other cheap structures. I have a steel quansit hutt thing for a shop, cool buildings, cheap, large, but by god they're hot, and too large to effectively cool down. this stuff could be used to fill the gaps in a minimalized version of the construction, and make it practically a bunker.
I found this video looking for a reasonably flexible way to concrete over foam for a budget shower enclosure. Waterproofing is easy, getting something that looks nice and professional, and won't fail or crack is harder.
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Genius always flows from the practical. Love this. I would want to see compression and tensile failure testing before I would build too much.
Ben, the tensile test is fairly easy to do and I plan to do one soon. The compression test I am still trying to figure how to do that on a budget.
All the tensile strength is in the fiber embedded in the coating. It is your choice.
@@AbundanceBuild I hope you are able to add some rebar to a slab for a comparison on the tensile strength tests. Also was there a reason you did not use perlite and went to the eps? Thanks for doing the videos!
A harbor freight press with an air attachment and a gauge? Wouldn't that give you the compression test?
@@AbundanceBuild Hydraulic jack or porta power unit with a pressure gauge is a simple compression tester.
I would be interested in seeing how other lightweight fillers in a mix like this would perform. One that comes to mind that is super cheap and similar to Styrofoam is rice hulls. They are basically waste and are very insulative while having a high resistance to rot and fire because of their high silica content. I know that rice hulls can be used as blown insulation that does not pack down due to weight if treated with chemicals or diatomaceous earth to prevent insects from nesting in it. It has slightly less insulative value than cellulose or fiberglass blown insulation, but is is just as light and far cheaper.
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@Knightswithoutatable I like your Rice Hull idea. This could be a possibility in our area in the Philippines as well.
Styrofoam is more challenging to get access to here in the Philippines.
Good Luck!
Greg
I like that you mentioned the use for sculpture. Sounds like a good material!
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Amazing stuff, thanks for sharing. Would you mind posting the ratio of water/cement/foam/styro and your formula for the aircrete foam as well?
Yeah sure. You're an idiot
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That's a great idea you have. I'd like to build a shed with this, possibly adding metal studs inside for added strength. Thanks for posting.
It's been done already on RUclips.
Wooden studs are ok if one wraps them in plastic first so the water doesn’t sucks out from the mix into the wood. That is how we make some bathroomfloors in Sweden if the floor beams are way too chopped up by plumbing and electrical drill holes. We buy a ready product like this ruclips.net/video/GGRMXYPlwps/видео.html
@@mackemacchiato3238 The wood would be slow to dry if it did absorb water from the drying cement, but that seems like it would be an issue of shrinkage and warpage from the water, rather than concerns for rot.
A lot of people think rot is caused by it getting wet. But rot occurs only by repeated wet then dry cycles MANY times.
Even a handful of cycles won't cause rot to cause any structural issue. The fungus that makes wood rot only thrives at a specific moisture content, which is why the wood "swinging" through that % repeatedly enables rot.
It's why a wood fence post will rot off right at the ground before anywhere else: that is the most frequent spot on the post where it cycles from wet to dry over and over.
"Dry rot" is not a thing, despite old timers referring to it.
Either constantly dry, or constantly wet, you'll get no rot. The wet version has been in evidence for 100 years at, for example, the St. Marks church in Venice supported by wood pilings driven into the mud that have never rotted.
@@brianmi40 Well Done ! (Sailing off the keel).
I like that idea of using metal studs as a skeleton inside the Crete.
Recently I started to see foam concrete, now with this Styrofoam tip I believe I will make a completely cool, light and fresh house thanks
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@stephen Williams - Hi Steve, enjoyed watching your new discovery using shredded styro foam and the sections you are creating with membrane and stucco. I believe this a big game changer. However you mentioned some of the setbacks in applying your method to constructing domes. I am pleased to tell that I have been working on innovative approaches to dome construction using hexagons. Also I believe that I have cracked the problem with the curved characteristic of domes. My new designs produce hexagons with right angles and the curve is created with angled shims added during assembly of dome. This means lots of right angled hexagons being produced quicker and easier by lesser trained operatives and the dome size is not restricted to component size because the hexagons can be added and subtracted according to space needs.
When my 3D cad drawing is complete I will make it available for viewing.
Thanks for inspiring efforts. Joe of UK
Buckminster Fuller is smiling down at you ! ~Nice
That’s awesome Joe!
Joe I am interested to see how that works. Sounds great.
Yes please keep me posted as well once you have the design available to see, send us an email or text us here! Thank you for sharing!
@@AbundanceBuild - @Stephen Williams - Hi Stephen, just completed one set of pics using tinker cad (sketchup wasn't working for me) and I have sent a bunch of jpegs to a friend who has the resources to build my dream dome.
I would like to share these with anyone interested. I haven't checked for patents and I am not looking to earn anything from this However I hope no one else steals, patents and prohibits others from using it.
I have seen others involved in dome design get very tetchy about their patents.
I will try and find a way to convey this info hopefully without YT interfering.
Thanks to you and Shepherds of Truth for your response.
Regards Joe of UK
Steve, you're a flippin' legend. Really inspiring! Love the recycled materials aspect -- trash is an underrated resource. God bless you and your family!
Too bad the end product cannot be recycled.
Styrofoam can be recycled, concrete aswell, the 2 shouldn't be mixed, because now it can only go to landfill.
I'll tell you for years I've always considered waste products as potential building products I mean look at what Mike pillow did to make a million dollar business he went to these memory foam companies and picked up their waste to which he uniformly shredded or tour to which he inserted into a pillow case which then would yield him a $40 profit and from what I understand he was able to get this product for free I mean how many products required zero dollars
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Your enthusiasm is amazing. Thanks for one of the best information packed videos on this subject.
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I'm very inspired and excited about your research and results. Please continue with this work.
That's the plan!
Breathtaking! Awesome, inspiring, and easy! I'm rewatching this a few times to let some of the details soak in. I have a foam gen. but was stuck on how to do walls and floors. And you showed the way to do that and attic/truss insulation with structural rigidity.
I have been worried about chaos Specifically, after severe weather events. The debris all flocked in pink insulation (hazardous), as well as any surviving living trees, etc. Often spelling destruction of them when clean up commences. Now, with Aircrete and your instruction, you've eased my conscious about events yet unseen.
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Stephan, have you heard of Performwall or RastraBlock? I have built over 150 custom homes with these materials... brilliant materials, developed by Engineering Professors at Tecnologico de Monterrey, in Monterrey, MX. These are hybrid concrete + 2nd generation styrofoam blocks. The styrofoam is collected from electronics assembly plants along the MEX-US border... it's free, and 2nd generation, which reduces offgassing by 80-90%. The blocks are 10' long, either 15" or 30" wide, and can be 8/10/12/14 inches thick. The blocks are poured in factories under controlled conditions, so very dimensionally consistent and stable. The 10" thick blocks deliver a structure with R36 insulation. The blocks are super easy to build with... we can frame a floor of a large house in 2 days... another 5 days to place concrete to interior cells (both vertical and horizontal at 15" on-center). There is much more to tell, but my point is... no need to reinvent the wheel... it has already been done with both residential and commercial structures in place for 20 years now.
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I think you've been inhabiting my head!
I've been looking at aircrete, hempcrete, and gothic arch building for the past few years and slowly formulating a plan to do a tiny house.
Very interested to see the final product
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Glad to see another, recent video shared with creative thoughts applied to aircrete!
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Aloha 🌺 from northern Germany. Thank you so much for sharing your experience with your self made aircrete and the results. For me (as a german) your english is easy to understand, because your pronouncation is very clear. So i thnik we´ll try it out... 🙏🥰
Danke schön! Viel Glück mit Ihrem Projekt! Wir arbeiten an einer baldigen mehrsprachigen Unterstützung!
@@AbundanceBuild Vielen Dank. Thank you so much. But it´s ok for me in english 😍🙏
One method that would be good for someone trying to build like this alone, is instead of doing whole walls, make interlocking blocks. Kind of like those you see on some road construction projects. The size of which would be 3'-4' long by 1.5' wide and high. The size could be adjusted for whatever weight you have the capability to handle.
I am curious to know what your mix weighs when cured per cubic foot.
fwiw there are a couple companies that have and still make ICF blocks out of it....
Hi Rollin. The mix I am using weighs around 10 lbs /cu ft.
@@AbundanceBuild do you happen to know the compressive strength?
@@RollinShultz Almost nothing. Don't build walls with this and put a roof on it. Long-term the expanded polystyrene is no better than air and without any other proper binding/strength substrate, walls built with this, if they're under constant pressure, will fail. Stucco is absolutely not a way to strengthen anything, it's just a finish. Make decoration with this kind of aircrete, by all means, but please, never ever, ever use this to build anything that puts lives in danger if/when it fails.
@@tomteatom You are right that stucco is not the way to strengthen but latex cement on fiberglass mesh that is a 1 centimeter thick shell is the way to strengthen it and it is incredibly strong.
Stephen a couple of suggestions:
1 - Compare the Expensive roofing mesh you have been using with the economical woven polyester landscape fabric -- I believe they are extremely similar.
2- Burlapcrete uses non-shrink grout and a bonding agent to make an extremely durable exterior surface. That would save you the cost of the plastic or the OSB.
great idea
Rodney which landscape fabric did you have in mind? I am finding several fabrics. The fiber mesh I am using is woven with good size holes in it to allow the mortar to penetrate throughout. I am using Boen 4.5 ounce 36 inch x 150ft from Home Depot. Buying 6 rolls at a time costs $36 per roll. $0.08/sq ft. Burlap is coming in higher than that from I am seeing.
@@stephenw1892 I compared the weave of the polyester roofing fabric recommended by Domegaia to woven landscape fabric. ...not the spun.
Sounds like your $36 is an option I need to investigate.
What did you mean by roofing mesh? The metal mesh? I'm looking into burlapcrete now. What if Stephen would have put sand in his styrocrete to make it strong like his stucco layer?
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Thank you. In Europe we have something called Waterproof OSB. Black painted thin version of osb that you could use multiple times to form concrete.
Sounds great!
What an awesome build! Great ideas for repurposing styrofoam and keeping one less thing out of the landfill. Please do videos on your tools you have created. Super job and I can't wait to see what's next.
keeping 1 more thing out of.
.
If people were really interested in keeping things out of the landfill, they would ban plastic made products and go back to metal and glass like they used to.
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Cool experiment. I'm very curious as to how this material would perform in the role of prefab roof panels. If it's light, thick and rigid, it'd be interesting if solar arrays could be mounted or integrated on them without the posts penetrating all the way through the barrier.
Fine sands and silts can be obtained from bulk sediment with suspension sluices and sifting frames. Basaltic sediment may even reduce emissions from the curing. Frayed tarpaulins and retired agricultural polymer netting are probably a good source for reinforcement fibers.
Please protect yourself with respiratory PPE or engineering controls so that your interesting experiments may continue for a long time.
that would be really intresting, were you thinking of using it more like spancrete? or more like individual smaller pannels fitted together?
@@timgoodliffe That's interesting as well. Spancrete marketed as "Space-Crete". Give us a couple of practical uses. Let's get this thing going.
That’s a great idea. The mounting hardware could be fully integrated into the panel that way. It would still need a durable and waterproof top surface. If you used a meltable PC or polymer it would surround the hardware stems.
I also love the idea of retired netting as a recycled fiber.
we used to work for a restaurant chain building the restaurants. The walkin freezers were built onsite using premade foam panels using 4x8 sheets of OSB on the inside and out. the osb hung over each edge of the foam about 1/12” so you could screw the panels together by screwing thru the foam into the next overlapping osb panel. This is one way you could make roof panels with aircrete as well! I would definitely use the correct supports underneath ! Thats where a good engineer or architect comes in! I am a firm believer in that buildings have to be constructed so they are SAFE!
This is one the best things I have seen this is perfect for building a enclosed hunting stand for us in the north great video thx
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You have my complete attention. My mind is racing, thinking of the possibilities. Subscribed and eagerly awaiting some of your follow-up videos.
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Nice nod to the guys I've followed for a few years. Nice seeing your innovation! I think you found the perfect material (in conjunction with rebar and stucco) to build a dome with. Now I'm stoked!
maybe use that basalt webbing instead of fiberglass or rebar, that would be cool
Thank you!
Anyone building boats out of aircrete these days? I been thinking about trying to make a shed that could float and be lightweight so that I can put it on a trailer when I find some land to buy. I'm in Bradenton Florida. I have watched all the foamcrete and cindercrete vids on youtube from all over the world. It's amazing what people come up with and this video make me want to start experimenting. Thank you for the inspiration
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This is amazing--mind blown--can't wait to get started, and perfect timing as I am planning a small build right now!!!! THANK YOU
Whats the build? I want to build rooftop desk since house is on hill with LA skyline/ Hollywood sign 20 mile in distance. Sunset!! Or 4foot wide 3deep length the side of house no one goes by.
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I don't know that I would trust aircrete/foamcrete for any thing other then dome or infill structures by itself, even with the tension skin. Consider adding some post and beams for the weight and a shear wall system with enough linear feet for the over head weight of the second story. There are formulas online to figure that out. That upper floor is going to rack the hell out of those walls in a big quake or heavy winds. I've done shear wall systems retrofitting and I worry your walls will not provide any support and fail.
A cross shaped system in the middle of the structure "could" provide your shear wall system and hold the weight "if" the slab is think enough for anchor and uplift weight, or you could also pour a cross shaped footing deep enough.
@max Do you have such a tool or formula to figure out how to best ensure the structural integrity? Could you please post the link to your results or similar? I really like this way of building aircrete and its potential for R value and other reasons for multiple climates and how it could help so many communities globally. However, we need to make sure we are all creating buildings that can last test of time or its really a waste of time/money at best and at worst it could be life threatening.
@@mrbizi5652 If you can build a good a good and accurate dome the shape will become the structural element. You have to have a good textile reinforcing layer both inside and outside of the dome. Atleast 1/4inch thick really strong reinforced cement. The blocks need to be shaped well, better then what you see online to get good joints. Some work has been done with a dual air form and pouring aircrete between the layers. Another option is to go with a styrofoam cement and spray an air form then cover with reinforcing fabric.
In my opinion, no one has come really close to perfecting an aircrete dome just yet. Getting close though.
Another option would be to use aircrete as an infill for insulation/wall sides that would be supplemented by a strong frame system. Again, the out layers need to be reinforced or you could just push through the wall.
There is also a system where a round wall is poured and a light weight roof is added.
I'm working on a dome system myself, I'm still undecided between bricks or airform.
The other issue I see with allot of the domes being built is poor foundations. Its very hard to cut corners and expect it to last
To the walls inside
I will say this guys idea of using aircrete with the styrofoam is really innovative, just have to use it within its correct parameters. I think he was ok with the first story(depending on the roof system) but the second story added some challenges. Nothing that can't be over come but it needs to be addressed. Still, he has some really good ideas. The mower/shredder looks like it works really well.
@@maxpowers4154 hey Max what are some good textiles reinforcing materials thanks!
This is amazing. I've been doing this for over a decade . However, I make pots for plants out of it. Never thought of a house. Really good video 👍🏽
I'm melting ~ can I see some picts of your pots? :)
That's a much more appropriate use for the material. Building a house with it is beyond dangerous and will 100% fail and most likely hurt everyone inside.
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This is outstanding.
I was wondering, to make a curved form, make the jig as you did, but instead of plastic use housewrap and then spray expanding foam over it to give it a coating that sets rigid. this would be your interior, then you could just pack your styrofoam aircrete onto the outside, bottom up like you are building with cob, and trowel it smooth as you go.
The inside could be plastered.
Do you think that would work out?
Thanks for the tip!
One of the best aspects of aircrete is that it is fireproof. What happens when you put a torch to this styrofoam-crete ? The skin of mesh and stucco on the outside may protect the styrofoam-crete for a while, but heat conducts through stucco pretty quick. Will the wall fall apart as the styrofoam in your mix melts down ?
is fireproof if mix correctly
here in AZ there is 2 companies that sells block made out of EPS an cement
ruclips.net/video/YleZsVuYr3E/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/uZJwhOo_mT4/видео.html
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Great video we need contractors who build these types of homes in America
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Your insurance factor is really amazing, so your getting average of 12.5 R rating from a 3 1/2" wall. That is so close to a regular insulted stick wall. It truly is amazing. Did you do a compression rating in PSF to see what is the average load you can use before failure of the wall?
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Hey Stephen. Great content. Looking forward to the A frame shed. I make concrete planters using Portland, Sand, and Perlite. The perlite is a great light weight alternative.
What’s your ratio for the planters?
Perlite is expensive.
Perlite much heavier
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Great to hear how your creative mind works while you're talking
Thanks Roxie!
I would love a video on your recipe for aircrete with styrofoam
Prepper the next video will cover this. Thanks.
@@AbundanceBuild this was exactly the question I had. Thanks Stephen.
@@AbundanceBuild please
I've tried this portland/styrofoam bead combination and find it wanting. I think it needs more development. I have used portland/perlite with better, but still structrally weak results. We also should take note of the fact that Australia has built a good number of homes with a portland/sawdust mix. I don't want to rely on fiberglass reinforced surface bonding stucco for structural strength. It's a good product, but it's expensive.
What I'm suggesting is that 1.the size of the styrofoam pieces should be experimented with. I'm suggesting as a starting point making them the size of the perlite grains - much smaller than the beads, and 2. other additives should be tried. I'm wondering here if plastic bottles could be shredded to make them fiber - like.
I agree that the right combination of materials would be useful in projects. It would be marketable in bags, and it would help us with our landfill issues.. The video shows a good direction, but I encourage the continuation of research
Fiber can be obtained from packaging stripes. There is a lot of this on places where huge packages are unpacked. These stripes holds sometimes a ton of Weihgt. I use It in concrete
@@MsToshinori ... As someone who recycles, there is one plastic that few centers take. It's these translucent plastic milk jugs. If it were shredded into 1 1/2 inch fibers it might make a good additive for concrete and maybe asphalt..
I am sure your packaging strips are also plentiful and hard to recycle..
@@frankhoffman3566 i think that they arę from carbon fiber. They hold 'europaleta' with stone And on some places they are throw to garbage.
New recipe video coming soon! Subscribe to stay tuned! Yes good acoustic and insulative properties
Good job. Finding new ways to build with new material. Keep it up.
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I would like to see the detailed build for use as a planter raised bed system, thanks
Brilliant idea! Potentially bug, rodent, and rot proof. Could be made modular so it could be relocated.
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Nice video Steve. Always wonder how that styrofoam could be used. Have you had any panels load tested? The arch is cool. Create a flexible template/tape to attach to top of the arc mark the blocking zones for nailing/screwing sheathing.
Have you checked fire codes for toxic gases if the structure gets HOT. Wondering if fire personnel would enter a structure if on fire.
I really like your creative thinking/process.
Good luck. Looking forward to your videos.
I watched a home being built in the early 70s. Today it is called The Flintstone House in San Mateo County, CA. It has been the center of many a controversy. Check it out. Neighbors have recently raised hell regarding the theme in the yard along with the colors. It’s the only organically shaped home on the surrounding hills. Everything else is “boxes on stilts “. There were many leaking problems with this home. Today’s materials would have been a great help.
Wonder how this technology would work on a Buckminster Fuller geodesic dome structure. Create some panels that can be bolted together. 👍
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We want to build a round house using 4X8 3/4" plywood that we collected years ago from trade shows. We have been looking for a method to make the home insulated and fireproof. We need to learn the "recipe" for the cement, the aircrete and the styrofoam Mix, so we can Mix it into lego blocks and stack them to insulate the outside of the boards in a circle we use to build the circular home. On top of the home we will build a deck as a ceiling inside the home, roof and deck above the home. On that Roof/deck we will add a Smaller dome and attach it to the deck, so there is a sitting space where we can eventually relax in the evening and look at the view. This is great info. Cannot wait to see what you create so we can get the exact mix and make some stuff ourselves..!!
go for it! recipe video coming soon!
What was your mix design? Would it work with hemp fiber of various types loose netting or fabric for added strength? I admit hemp is organic material, but like rape bugs and pests won't eat it and avoid it and once encapsulated in concrete it won't rot. Like air bubbles hemp and graphene are tubular, hold air and are strong. Would it work with a non-autoclaved mix design? What about with closed cell foam or closed cell copolymer foam? Have you thought about using mgo or fiber cement board and making 4x8 panels that could interlock to eliminate the voids beneath your windows? Did you have to use a waterproofing admixture in powder or liquid to your mix design? You shouldn't have to use stucco wire to get it to stick to the outside of it as concrete attaches to concrete and the use of either hemp netting embedded or mgo/Hardie board sheeting should provide the added strength without using stucco wire. I realize the objective is strong, lightweight and low cost, but if it would work with the hemp netting coupled with a closed cell copolymer resin the strength and R value would increase sufficiently to offset the minor increase in costs. I would even say mere shredded hemp paper would add the strength factor alone - you are aware they make bulletproof vests out of it. I think another possibility would be graphene powder to increase the strength and R value as well. I'm disabled and can only posit the questions, alternatives and possibilities.
Wow, great ideas! The use of hemp netting really grabbed me. If it were you what size mesh would you use? I'm thinking of making panels a-la The Honey Do Carpenter and could the hemp netting replace the hardware cloth he uses? I'm looking at this for a tiny house on wheels and wondering how it would handle road movement. Any ideas you have would be greatly appreciated.
@@claireomeara2620 I wouldn't use Crete for anything moving. Too much cracking I'd imagine. SIP panel is common for the campers
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Really beautiful piece, and I love the way you explained everything in detail. Can you please do us a video of how to make the styrofoam shredder? I'll love to see that.
Thanks
Yep.. that's what I want to see as well
Me, too
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You could make medium to large blocks and the cement use to adhere them to one another would provide additional structural support. Probably easier than having to pack walls. As easy as they are to cut, that solves the need for too many different size block forms. You could take you time making a bunch of blocks and than start building. This is great and the possibilities are making my mind go into a frenzy. I've been mentally working on a dome using large triangular shaped forms. You make one form and keep pouring over and over. You could even have several sectional breaks to make it easier to pack. Having lived in So. Florida all my life, wind resistance is crucial, much less the energy efficiency advantages. A dome home in the Tampa area even withstood a massive tidal surge. The exterior lath and stucco becomes your life long roof with periotic painting and maintenance. I though about basalt rebar, due to its flexibility but I don't think it would be needed with this material. They shoot gunnite on the interior and exterior of some monolithic domes, so that would provide extremely good structural support.
thanks for the tip!
Very good idea, thanks for your time and researching! I was thinking from the outside we need facade, of course there is lot of ways to do it but..., If we vibrate the concrete then we get nice surface. Now there is lot of products on the market, there are some fluids which you can spray on the concrete and it is water-resistant later and you can be sure that your concrete wall doesn't take moisture in winter days. After that you can choose some paints do decorate it.
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I will use this to insulate my roof. It is exactly what I was looking for. The lightness will be perfect. SW, how is the sound insulation compared to aircrete?
Oooh! Good question! I'm thinking music studio....
Thank you. From what I can tell it is a very good sound insulator as well.
I recently built a raised bed/grow box with this same method. I used silicone in a caulking tube, to create fake stonework joints by placing beads of silicone on the outer form, in the shape of random stone. ( don't have to be neat. Can also smear some in the field to create high/low spots.) I was very happy with the results. I randomly threw brown dye on the surface, painted the joints black dye , and it looked so much like an old railroad bridge type of finish, it could have fooled the best. The only reservation I have about the Styrofoam is having the pellets get loose in the environment; because some birds might mistake them for food, and it can kill them.
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It would be a good idea to perform some basic material strength measurements so that the properties of this material can be used to engineer the structure. What is the compression strength? Beams generally fail in tension? What is the tensile strength? You could estimate these using your sample panel and a few tests.
Please, please someone please do this test. I don’t know how to do these tests but I understand why they are necessary and would really like to see the results so this practice can be adopted more widely.
Sam, I am thinking through how to do a variety of tests. I am moving towards using the wood truss design i showed nailed together with scrap 2x material from building sites. This will give you the ability to pour the walls and roof in one monolithic pour. This will give it tremendous more strength and nailing surfaces to screw sheetrock, siding and metal roofing.
@@AbundanceBuild California needs something like this for the fire retardant facto, but the issue with earthquakes always comes up with concrete materials. How would styrocrete be reinforced to be safe in an earhquake?
Why let facts get in the way of a bad/dangerous idea?
Very cool!! I’ve been interested in aircrete for a long time I just have too many projects to complete yet and a warm shop before I can start experimenting. Subscribed and looking forward to future videos.
We’re did you find that elevator?
@@Top12Boardsport On RUclips. Search for Winch elevator. You will see several of them. Really cool.
@@AbundanceBuild Have ever consider using "glass foam" aggravate in concrete pour for a slab?
BTW there are few companies that make blocks of of this material that is used as an ICF. And I have seen a structural engineer test wrapping fiberglass mats, a inside failing CMU wall to reinforce it. But there is the 1st time I have seen these build ideas combined in there manner.
One last question was there any issue with you local code enforcement signing off on it? That seemed like the major road block in it being used more.
@@AbundanceBuild ruclips.net/video/r-pI724I_tE/видео.html . Really easy and cheap. I do ecological housing in Uruguay. Hot outside, and inside cool with no AC.
@@AbundanceBuild . Sandwich panel. Cheap. Very strong. No fire. ruclips.net/video/s_dRkIpgxCs/видео.html . 2 months, four people, done ✅.
I love your shredder solution. I would not have thought of that in, well in like 20 years i tried to. So elegant.
Thank you!
Thank you! I want to give it a try. Where are you located? would love to see a list of the vendors for the mixer, shredder, materials, etc?
Hi A. I live in Athens Alabama. I will be sharing more about the process in the next video.
@@AbundanceBuild very cool, TY!
Hello, can you write in the comment the amounts you have used?, are you using for example water by weight and styrofoam by volume? also what kind of foaming agent used with what kind of air ratio/pressure? also could you show the styrofoam shredder in more detail ? Thanks!
Yes, ratios would be helpful. If you did various ratio mixes, can you share your findings on those as well?
Hi Tomasz I will be making a detailed video on how to mix it and the recipe.
@@AbundanceBuild thanks looking forward to that!
Two minutes into your video I knew I would subscribe to your channel. Great video well explained. Now I'm headed to see what other videos of yours I can find. Thanks
Thanks! New builds incoming! Stay tuned
Nice presentation of very solid content! Well thought out. Thanks for sharing it! What I am missing is how the second story is attached - so it does not end up in Oz?
Thanks for the feedback. I bolted a top plate with long screws into the top of the aircrete and the floor sits on that and interior walls that are all nailed together.
I watched a bunch of aircrete videos before and had come to the conclusion that it wasn't really worth the effort. I saw this video in my feed and almost skipped over it. this way of doing it seems to be the most practical, repeatable, and easy method. this has changed what I was thinking for my cabin design
that said, this cannot be a structural material. first, bricks, concrete block etc. do not have their strength judged by "it held it up". building materials need to withstand failures in weird directions and for all kinds of reasons. second, structural materials cannot have catastrophic failure modes. that's why rebar is in concrete, so what when the concrete fail, the rebar holds the structure together. so, if anyone is thinking about building with this, you should build a structurally sound building FIRST, then use this to fill in the walls. something like traditional stick framing then filling in the wall cavities with this stuff would work well.
Maybe with Post and Beam style Buildings, as well! But, he did mention you could form blocks, like "Concrete Blocks, that have 2 Holes in them, for Pouring Concrete of whatever PSI you Need, for Vertical Columns, that are then the Structural Support, while the Aircrete Blocks from the Insulation, AND stabilization of the Columns!
Using Vertical Rebar, tied to 1/2" Square Metal Mesh Construction Cloth, in those holes, should be a Good Core to the Columns!
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I had already planned on building a tool shed out of aircrete this spring after watching other videos. i am glad i watched this one as i didn't know about having to do the mesh and plaster on the outside. i live in Michigan so we will see how it holds up to the seasonal changes here. e.g. this past winter our weather changed in one week: mon 20f, tue 50f, wed 45f, thu 15f, fri 35f
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Great job and explanation looking forward to seeing a panel completed with the fiber mesh. Honeydew carpenter built a great tool to get the stucco on your walls fast! I'd like to make panels for some raised garden beds.
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I would be concerned about the compressive strength of the walls especially with the 2nd level which increases the load. And wonder if it would pass the building code.
That's what I've been wondering as soon as I got a few minutes in. There's no way he's allowed to have this building and he's lucky he hasn't gotten found out yet.
@Lucas Blizzard Some counties/townships/cities have much more strict codes than others as we know but compressive strength is in IRC code book I believe
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Amazing this is perfect for kids play houses I’m interested in the making and mixing process love to see more
Great idea!
What is the structural strength of this material? I would suspect this loses strength vs. regular concrete. How well does it stand up to bending loads?
Another concern that comes to mind is that the production of shredded styrofoam makes microplastic waste. It would be important to gather up all the little bits and make sure those don't end up polluting the environment, otherwise the production of styrofoam filled concrete could potentially be problematic.
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I'd love to see this with hemp fibers instead of styrofoam. Thanks for the the ideas!
If you do not know what to do with your money you can build a house out of pure gold
I bet you would Panama Red!
That defeats the purpose of 'lightweight', 'insulating', 'cheap' and offers no environmental benefit unlike keeping styrofoam out of the landfills. Sealing up biodegradable hemp fibers in concrete is a waste compared to everything else you could do with the fibers including just composting them.
@@MA-mh1vs I used to think the same. Dig into hempcrete a bit and see if you change your mind. I do like this build to capture styrofoam but I want to see aircrete and hemp mixed to see the results.
@@MrFarva85 Just looked into it and 2 downsides that stood out was 1) Adding an extra $60 per square foot to the building cost. Compared to reduced cost with using free styrofoam 2) The R value is 2.08 which is less than aircrete at 2.5 and no where close to this guys 3.5.
Now as far as strength goes concrete is at most 17, aircrete is 8.5, foamcrete is 4.5 and hempcrete is a .5 - 3.5 and can not be used for load bearing walls at that strength. Reinforced with stucco it may hold up to being used as a load bearing walls like this guys have.
I can not compare strength with this guys mix but it probably is no stronger than hempcrete based on the high styrofoam content but is reinforced with the stucco and is crazy lightweight being mostly foam and is even holding a second floor.
I just do not see the benefit of using hemp over styrofoam, the styrofoam is free, insulates better and it helps the environment by keeping it out of landfills.
WowThis stuff would be amazing as a shell to apply over a shipping container house as an insulator !
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WOW! Love the content and all the info. Thanks for sharing. Typical aircrete recipe is about 150-160 PSI. What do you think you're getting on your mix design?
Thank you. It is lower than aircrete because of the styrofoam. It has good compressive strength as you can tell from holding up the second floor. The strength comes from the fiber mesh stucco. The wall is very flimsy until that is applied.
Interesting idea. One thing that occurs to me is that expanded polystyrene (that's actually what you're using ... styrofoam is a different product) is very flammable. Have you tested the fire resistance of this stuff?
Yes performs well isolated in the cement! subscribe for new regulatory tests coming soon!
Amazing, thanks for all the helpful tidbits very generous of you!
You're welcome!
Hi Stephen. Once again great video.
Little known in some circles ( blue ?) but ferro-cement boats were a resource in WWII when materials were scarce.
I think your aircrete/polystyrene composite has the potential to make a great boat in the hands of an experienced boat builder.
thanks for sharing!