1998 Chevy Tahoe 5.7L Water Pump Replacement (Part 1) -EricTheCarGuy
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- Visit me at: www.ericthecarg...
This video is part 1 of the replacement of a water pump on a 5.7L Chevy V8. This video will apply to many other makes that use this engine such as GMC as the engine in this video has been used for many years by GM. I feel it's a job that just about any DIY could do with the right set of tools. The video also covers the diagnosis of the faulty water pump as well as purging the air out of the cooling system when you're done. One last thing. I know the Check engine light is on, it's a catalytic converter code.
This video can be seen in it's entirety with bonus footage such as how I dealt with the speed clip that wouldn't come out as well as the thermostat replacement. You can see this footage by signing up for a Premium Membership at EricTheCarGuy.com. More information can be found here.
www.ericthecar...
Here are some helpful links mentioned in the video that you may find useful.
Part 2: • 1998 Chevy Tahoe 5.7L ...
Replacing a Serpentine Belt: • How To Replace a Serpe...
Belts and Pulleys: • Belt and Pulley Basics...
Diagnosing an Overheat: • How To Solve An Engine...
Bleeding a Cooling System: • How To Bleed A Cooling...
Discussion about this video: www.ericthecar...
Stay dirty
ETCG
Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.
good to see you not cut out the footage of fails good honest real mechanic
Driving down the highway last night, heard a sound and something fell. Pulled over and saw that the fan had fallen off and damaged the radiator. So this video is PERFECT. Subscribed.
this was literally made 100 times easier by this video,thanks for it.took me watching this and 2 hours of labor including a trip to the autoparts store.
Thank you Eric for this information. It got me up and running in 2 hours. 187,000 miles and the weep hole was the culprit. 49.00 for a pump, 25.00 for antifreeze and 5.00 for gasket spray. You have a new subscriber.
+Redpaw Designs It wasn't the weep hole. It was the SEAL around the SHAFT that separates the water from the bearings. The weep hole is to give you a clue to replace the pump before total failure where even the bearings fall apart and the Fan can wobble, Hit and destroy your Radiator. (although these fans are made out of plastic not steel)
Yes, I clearly understand what you said. Thank you. I wrote it out all wrong, I was greasy handed and wanted to write a quick reply.
The weep hole only gave me an indicator, the pump was replaced.
Just wanna say Thank You Eric! Just put on my first water pump and it went smoothly and painlessly because of your very helpful video! Thanks again, Eric!
Most I'd done before was a brake job and a thermostat.
After watching your video just twice, I changed my leaking water pump and replaced my thermostat, serpentine belt and radiator cap in just under four hours and no head aches it works fine, no leaks or overheating. Thank you
Just an fyi, napa sells a fan clutch tool that I've used for almost every water pump job I've done for less than 30 bucks for you diy guys. worth it even if you only do the job once.
For this truck the displacement is about perfect. She is a big girl after all.
Great videos....
A couple of other tips to consider are
1) use a breaker bar to add additional pressure to the belt when taking the fan off and loosening up the water pump pulley bolts.. It has always worked like a champ for me
2) replace the belt tensioner if you have not done it yet... for the extra $25 you are going to prevent yourself from throwing a belt and getting stuck on the side of the road later..
g8trdun throwing a belt on won’t get you stuck right away. You’ll lose your fan and power steering, but can usually make it a few miles before you start to overheat. Although I suppose if you ignore the fact that your A/c stopped working, your power steering is gone, and the smell of burnt rubber is coming through the dash you might keep driving till the whole truck overheats and then you literally are stuck on the side of the road 😂😂😂
Eric this is another reason why to love you! just blew some stuff on my truck today, and watching this video is a good start.
Thanks Eric, you helped get us through the fix. Couldn't get the big nut off either, ended up taking the pump off with fan attached, clamping pulley into vice and using a long pipe over the wrench to get more leverage, while the other hit it with hammer eventually gave way. Man we were glad to get that thing apart, took hours just to get the nut undone.
You deserve your own TV show Eric!
Hey, man, just wanted to extend a big thank you for posting this video, especially the part about finding a leverage point on those bolts to get the fan blade off. I had to use an adjustable wrench in a pinch. Taking off the idler pulley was a big help too. Thanks again!
done tons of these, not bad at all, after the fan nut is off. i have a set of pneumatic wrenchs now that go on an air hammer, makes things so much easier. used to use the big adjustable and hammer. you mentioned about the lower hose not taking much abuse, but in my expereince on those trucks, they become soggy/spongey due to oil leaks from the front of the engine, which is common on those older ones.
Watching this video brings back memories, I changed my water pump on the side of a highway.
I did as well and I carved it out of wood ...make sure u use green wood not dry as green will expand and contract and the tree sap makes good gasket sealant
done. my truck has the 6.0 so the pump, gaskets, accessory belts and tensioners are different. Thanks a lot for the video. The fan removal was easier than i thought it would be.
Scotty did that with a crank bolt, which spins in the opposite direction.
If you look at the fins, and realize that the fan is designed to push air from front to back, you know the water pump spins counterclockwise when you stand at the front of the engine looking back. Standing air has an inertia that pushes back against a spinning fan, so inertia will tend to tighten the fan nut, which is what you want. In this case, the engine would work against you if you were trying to to loosen the nut.
I'm going to be doing a GM RattleTec water pump soon. Nice to see GM keep it simple..
The 5.7 engine is one of my favorites as well.
Agreed with some other folks on here. Always used an air hammer with a pneumatic chisel and carefully hit the fan nut and works almost every time.
When I used to work on commission I loved water pumps, couple of them in a week guaranteed a good paycheck.
Thanks for the video. I've never done a water pump before and thanks to your videos I got it done in about 2 hours. The auto parts store let me borrow the fan clutch tool and made things really easy. Keep posting I'm subscribing.
Both videos were great. Job went smooth. I had to invent a tool to get the fan off. I wedged part of a fishing spear in it.
Eric, I'm a learning wrench and I gotta thank you so much for all these videos. I'm really picking up on your techniques and ideas, doing mechanic work is alot less intimidating when you explain it. I wouldn't be able to work on my own car and learn on my own otherwise. again, thank you!!
Erick you are so professional and I like the easy way YOU explain the steps FOR REMOVE OR INSTALL PARTS. CONGRATULATIONS.
I do that sometimes too but I didn't think to try it here. Thanks for the suggestion.
It's nice to work on something different. Thanks for the comment.
the 350 sure is a great engine... that and the 3800, i am also partial to the 2.2, if you dont mind the occasional head gasket failures, they will run forever
Good job on the video. Thanks especially for making the extra effort with the camera to show us close ups.
I'm in robertsdale, I'm letting it cool and then will replace the pump
I think it's easier to do it the way I did it. If you try and loosen them with the belt on the belt tends to slip.
Great video, Eric. I'm by no means an expert DIY mechanic, but after watching your video I replaced the pump, tensioner and serpentine belt on my 175K mile 1997 Silverado in 55 minutes...! Necessity being the mother of invention, for those of you who don't have that fan tool, you can use a long breaker bar to help loosen the fan nut. IF you are planning on replacing the serpentine belt, you can wedge the bar tip between the fixed pulley and the pump pulley to "stop" the pump pulley from rotating. Position it on the drivers side while loosening, and the passenger side when tightening. Also, removing the fixed pulley and upper hose clip do give you more room to work, and only takes you another minute.
The pipe wrench is a WIN!! My dad helped me take out the clutch fan from my 1994 towncar. Jeez that was the Hard part 😂
I'm with you on losing bolts and doodads under a hood. I'm still missing stuff I *still* haven't found - it's like there's a pocket dimension under some people's hoods or something.
Well done as always - anxiously awaiting Part II!
Dude! I learn so much from watching your videos. The little details, Like how you popped that clip with a flat head. I am a Honda enthusiast but sometimes I watch your videos on other makes just to learn. You are awesome. Keep it up!
i did an water pump replacement on a Jeep Grand Cherokee 1996 5.2 V8 and its almost the exact same layout and process hahahha!!! nice video Eric .
and bought one I LOVE IT!!! I'm thinking where have you been all my life, granted i think the quality wasn't there in the past. I bought new dewalt 18volt 3/8 drive on ebay for 99 bucks a new broke dewalt charger for 5 bucks, it just needed a capacitor and back in business then two batteries from lowe's on sale for 109.00 so i got roughly 220 in it and the best 220 i ever spent. been givin it hell so far and so far it's still goin strong. . Anyway that's my rant for the day. Good Job Eric.
"Yay!" LOL. That was funny. I have those same moments in my garage. No one is around and no one will ever know some our of sweet and subtle victories, but a loud yay is needed everyone once in a while to cheer our spirits on. LOL!
Don't remove the belt before you loosen the bolts on the water pump pulley. With the belt on you still have tension and the bolts come off easy.
A couple years ago I replaced the water pump on my 99 Tahoe, now I'm replacing the power steering pump and wanted to get the fan out of the way for easier access, fast forward through the video to the fan removal part and seen you using the pipe wrench , I tried that too, I thought he gets that off I'm going to shit, I didn't have a wrench that big, gonna have to borrow one, and I couldn't remember if it was left or right handed threads, thanks Eric on the right track now. Subbing up 👍
Awesome now we're changing out our water pump on our Tahoe and have already changed out the thermostat. thanks so much for the information.
it may be a hack way, but it is how I and several other guys I work with do it and if you're careful you'll never cause any damage. An air hammer with a long chisel and some light hammering will knock the fan loose and allow you to spin it off. Works everytime with some common sense.
I had a 98 GMC searia, E Cab, i bought it new, drove for 10 yrs, and recked it it was a very good truck Truck
Hey Eric I dont have the special tool for removing the clutch fan either. A trick I learned was to use my air hammer to start the nut spinning loose then it should just spin off after it is broke loose.
ALL YOU HAD TO DO IS PUT A FLAT SCREW DRIVER AGAINST THE BASE WHERE THE BOLTS ARE UNDER ONE SCREW HEAD AND ABOVE THE OTHER. YOU LOOSEN ALL FIRST SO THE LAST ONE IS NOT LEFT WITH A HEAD TO BE AGAINST TO IN ORDER TO LOOSEN IT. NO MONKEY WRENCH, NO SLEDGE, AND THE WHOLE ROUND BASE HOLDING THE CLUTCH AND FAN COMES OFF, LOL ( I SAW YOU WEDGE THE SCREWDRIVER AFTERWARDS) EXCELLENT VIDEO ! (EX-FOREMAN, ASSEMBLY LINE CHEVROLET DIVISION, FISHER BODY)
Your demonstration got me through my water pump job. Thanks for taking the time to post this sir.
Thanks and yes to your question.
Another way to release the stubborn fan clutch that is stuck on there. Use an air hammer with a long flat chisel bit to bite into the flat side of the nut near the edge, in the direction it needs to be removed. It will spin the nut usually with just a little bit of work. Place the flat bit near the edge, for example on the left side with the bit vertical will drive the left side down spinning the nut counterclockwise if that's your direction.
It looks like the left valve cover or intake gasket is leaking or has been leaking. Because compromised intake gaskets are a pattern failure in this engine that is worth a second look. The bearing in the idler pulley at about 15:15 fails over time too and the tip of the weak is to replace it with an OEM unit (the pulley, bearing and "spacer" come as one assembly). The 5.7L can last almost forever, a great engine! All OEM hose clamps too - wow!
Good vid! I'm English - so this engine isnt something i'll ever work on, but its great to watch none the less! I Enjoy your videos very much! I work on old Fords from the 80's and 90's - they were very big in England and still have a huge following. Fiestas, escorts, sierras, cortinas, anglias... everyones heard of the mighty sierra cosworth! :D I build race engines, havnt got many videos but im going to do some race engine building videos.
the special snap-on tool i got to use was simular to that it has wrech heads to fit the fan nut a lever that hinges on the wrench head attaches to an air hammer
you're a good, man thanks for the pointers. had hell with the hose clamps. found a C clamp and fixed it, good deal. keep up the good work,
Dear Erik, the way the pump rotates seems very okay, but this leakage through the hole indicates a seal failure only. Some people may try to plug the hole, but that action will force the water into the bearing which will cause bearing failure and bearing noise (more or less than the tension pulley noise you demonstrated).
I just did this on my 97 Dodge Ram 1500 w/ a 3.9 V6. I didnt bother with removing the fan from the pump, I just took the whole assembly off as a whole (had to take the pulley bolts out for wiggle room for the pump bolts behind the pulley). about 8 bolts holding the pump on including some other belt pulley brackets. there was enough room to fit 2 or 3 people between the engine and the rad support in the engine bay after the shroud, rad, water pump and fan came out (4 shroud bolts 2 rad bolts).
Always good to see Eric in a good mood
It is such a great feeling when that fan breaks loose.
Skip C...well said. All of his subscribers should send him $1 he'd get thousands. And deservingly
Its nice to see all your videos but its really nice seeing you work on something different, great job, cant wait till part 2. Enjoy your weekend Eric and everyone else
Super video. I have been messing with this water pump, especially the fan clutch, what a PIECE. I hope I don't have to do this again, soon anyway. It is great that Auto Zone has the tool to remove the dag burn thing. I still had to use the crecent wrench, but the Chevy fan clutch tool helped alot on the 4 bolts.
thanks! as a side note, I diddnt know Torque converters had moving parts in them before you took that one apart
Thank you for posting this. It made short work of this project for even a rookie like me.
Bruce H. Salem Oregon 1999 Chevy Tahoe.
I use a strap wrench for this.
Remove the serpentine belt and put the strap wrench around the water pump pulley. You can wedge the handle of the strap wrench against other pulleys or the block so that the water pump pulley wont move. Then its easy to break loose the fan and the pulley bolts.
Hey Eric, you should give using an air chisel a try to remove those fan clutches. Been using that method for 15 years and never had it fail!!!
Another well made, and informative video with a dash of humor for good measure. That's what i like about your vids. Big ol hairy thumbs up, and stay dirty.
thanks for the video eric. Funny I have a water pump leak after replacing a radiator too. I used that stop leak crap. Im guessing it caused a water pump issue when I used it.
Yes it does but I didn't bother with it since I knew I'd have the lower hose in my hands and could drain it from there.
We may be the master of the machines but in a fight they do tend to come off better. The scares, scrapes and near misses should prove testament to that also if you do come off better you still have to fix the damage on the machine. It merely mocks you for injuring yourself.
there is a bearing and seal in there, when one or both go bad, it allows the coolant to pass by and out throug the hole it goes.
im working on a 99 grand cherokee with the 4.7 V8 the fan shroud is one piece without the special fan removal tool you cant get the shroud past the fan whout breaking the shroud. the special tool is the mix of wrench heads to match size with a lever bar that attaches to an air hammer after you determine the driection of removal it comes off quick the shroud and the radiator come off together
Hey Eric at 10:20 about nuts going missing sometimes. What I do sometimes is get out my air hose nozzle connected to the air compressor and just start spraying all over at different angles, and that missing nut usually will eventually fly out from it's hiding spot and land on the ground.
Yes...I changed mine before I seen this. Keep post the Chevy stuff. I have 95 Tahoe
GM does not only use SAE fasteners. GM and other domestic makes have used some metric since the 70's. The fasteners he was removing actually were meteric. I own a 99 Suburban and have done the same work on it, among other things. Infact, when i recently rebuilt the 4L60E, I only needed a TP-50 bit, an 18, 15, 13, 10, and an 8 socket.
I'd need one to come into the shop needing that service. I don't often see BMW's at my shop though.
Tighten on the tensioner and then use the wrench regularly. The tensioner with the belt will hold it in place that way
Eric needs some good cordless impacts.. Makes life much easier. Especially for the WP Bell removal. Hold bell and zap it.
They were still quite pliable and I had no reservations about reusing them.
Two suggestions
use threaded rods to keep the gaskets in place and guide the water pump on to the block
Do not remove the belt before loosening the bolts on the water pump pulley
Know that feeling fella, It always seems to be three sizes of all tools that get eaten be they sockets or spanners, 10,12 and 13mm
I'm doing this water pump as we speak right now good video help me out a bit but i found a better way to take off the fan with the same tools u used
He is giving valuable information. If you want to pay PAY. Otherwise STOP COMPLAINING. Who cares if he wants to make money. He spends time on this editing the film why shouldn't he be compensated if people feel they should.
I do the same thing when taking off the fan clutch only i use a dead blow instead of steel hammer, hmm i may try steel next time. I am looking at the Lisle tooI 42920 mainly because of the electric clutches and agree with 35057, you will never pick up your air again (almost) if you get yourself a cordless impact. been wrenchin for 28 yrs and had only eye'ed them before, cause they are not cheap but ever since i broke down
There are machine shops that will press out the impeller and bearing and change the damaged brace backed rubber seal, clean the assembly, re grease the bearing in black grease (CV type grease) and install back or change the bearing too. Keep the old pump should you encounter a machine shop with press machine that could do it, but this really does not worth it as it may coast the price of a new pump , I wonder. Looking forward to see 2nd part. Have a nice time all.
Hey Eric,
In terms of coolant - you may want to get yourself a mityvac fluid evacuator and evacuate the coolant before working on the vehicle. I haven't used it myself but I figure, well, it should work on a system like this.
I havent done a lot of work on vehicles but they tend to frown on spilled coolant/automotive fluids where I am. I figure, it would also save you some coin in terms of replacement coolant...
Lisle fan clutch tool for air hammer.works great.
@David G no. And by the way, steel and iron don't erode. They rust. Aluminum erodes but it doesn't rust. Radiators are made of aluminum and coolant doesn't erode the radiator. No coolant won't damage anything. But water will
Working on Mopars is...really rough. GM's are definately easier to work on. That's the only time i've ever had to delve into a Mopar for a part failure (aside from cracked header welds and such), and it SUCKED. Lol. Even the water pump itself had four or five layers of bearings upon seals and more seals, and bearings inside those seals. It was insane. But it won't happen again for probably hundreds of thousands of miles. Totally worth it in my opinion.
I always like to put a ratchet on the tensioner and pull it a little tighter while I loosen the fan clutch nut
I use an air hammer with a chisel bit to brake loose fan clutch.. It work everytime.
I used the tips from this video to replace my water pump. It worked out well. Thanks
A little wiggle test with the crank pulley would show how worn the timing chain may be and may need changing while you have it more than 3/4's done.
i live my eric the car guy's slogan. 'stay dirty' and thats what im doing. going on 2 weeks now that I havnt showered, im scaring away all the babes!!
Great video...i have to replace the waterpump on my 99 Jimmy
My 1.6 litre 8 valve 30 year old english engine [CVH turbo] will be making over 300BHP, it was making 255 on pretty much standard parts apart from turbo and pistons!!
when I took my fan off I took out one of the the bolts in the water pump pulley and took a long flat piece of steel with a hole in it and bolted it in with that bolt and unscrewed the fan.
hey i have this same suv same tahoe except mine is a 99 and has 4x4 in it love it wont trade it for anything new. even though it sucks on gas mileage.
I want to say thanks thumbs up on your video because I am doing my water pump right now and I say the job is easy thanks for the tips and you all have a great day
Who knew Eric peels his oranges with screwdrivers ;)
I agree with air hammer, only lots of people don`t have air or a air hammer.
Don't take the belt off until you loosen the pulley bolts for the water pump. Belt keeps enough tension on the pulley it won't rotate when taking bolts out.
Eric, Great to see some American metal in your shop.I am an avid listener and semi retired wrench.Have you thought about going over to "Cordless Tools" I have several buy " Milwaukee M18" 3/8 , 1/2 drive line up.It beat dragging an air hose all over the shop.Yes I still manage to stay semi dirty, Ken in Texas
best way to take of fan is use the pully bolts .take then out but one backward in the back of the water bump just one it will wail it self on the pump