Another excellent tutorial. I noticed that you didn’t lubricate the escape wheel pivots before installing the train bridge. Also, with these Hamilton movements I’ve had a difficult time getting the hairspring to fit between the regulator pins. Sometimes it goes together perfectly but mostly it doesn’t. Would you consider doing a video on this? I know this gets pretty granular, but those of us who are hanging on your every word, this would be a great lesson! In any case, thanks for a nice complement to your 747 movement video!
Nice job! I'm working on servicing a 753 for the first time and this is invaluable. What I didn't see is whether you removed the upper balance end stone setting from the balance cock before you cleaned it. At 12:23 you are oiling the end stone, and the balance cock with the setting and the regulator are all assembled. Did you disassemble it completely before you cleaned it? Thanks for any help.
Thanks for the kind words. Yes, the entire balance cock assembly is disassembled prior to cleaning. It's the only way to ensure the jewels are completely free of any schmoo. Good luck on your project watch!
I really like your videos. I watch alot of watch servicing videos and I love the way you describe your process. Can you please tell me what that gel like stuff is on the end of a white stick you used to clean off the dial towards the end of the video? Thanks a million!
Hi Troy, thank you for watching! Those are Bergeon Adhesive Swabs, part number 7007-2. I picked them up from Esslinger, as well as Cleaning Pad for Adhesive Swabs Bergeon, part number 7007-C to keep them clean. So far, I'm pretty happy with them, but I wouldn't say they're completely necessary. A clean piece of rodico will do essentially the same job.
Isn't it best to remove the balance wheel and pallet fork first before anything else in the movement? Also, you skipped over (I think) letting down the wind that is on the watch before removing the stem, ratchet wheel, click, etc. Nice tip in removing the hairspring stud from the balance wheel assembly. Nice video.
Hi Mike - Yes. Stems are held in place by the setting lever. The setting lever is held in place by the setting lever screw. This is the screw I point out that is on the watchmaker's side of the movement, holding the setting lever in on the dial side. Once the setting lever screw is loosened, the stem can be removed. On some watches, there is no setting lever screw. In those movements, the setting lever is held in place by a spring, which needs to be depressed to release the stem.
I hadn't considered that....you may be exactly right. I'll give the 9501 grease a try to test it out instead of D5 (you were right). Thank you for the advice, I appreciate it.
Wolfe Vintage Watches The lubrication of canon pinion won't reall affect the timing unless it's really bad. Most of the tech sheet will suggest grease on canon pinion these includes those moebius blue grease 95XX and molykote DX. I did try to use HP1300 and D5. On some movement I don't find issues with it. On particular movement especially those with a tight canon pinion, if you use oil instead of grease it will be very difficult to snap that pinion on to the post. Besides you will get a smoother experience if you apply grease.
@@eatpeach2355 Great points. I've stuck with D5 up to this point because I haven't had any issues and haven't needed to revisit the lubrication charts. Do you work on both modern and vintage movements? Do you notice any difference between the two as it relates to lubrication of the canon pinion? I have no experience with a movement after 1978, so am curious.
Just curious see other watchmakers actually using breaking (braking?) grease in the barrel. I saw you just lube the arbor unless I missed it. Is that due to the fact this is a manual wind and you do not want mainspring slip? Excellent work, superb narration particularly explaining in such wonderful detail and clarity. Excited about finding your channel cause I am a watchmaker wannabe first class and love this content!!
Hi John - Great question. Yes, braking grease is only necessary on automatic watches or on mainsprings that are designed to slip in modern manual wind watches. This is to not only prevent wear and tear on the barrel walls, but to provide a bit of grip for the mainspring so it doesn't completely unwind. You can see me apply braking grease in the automatic movements from my other videos...this is the first manual movement I've posted. On these vintage manual wind barrels, since the mainspring is held in place by the T-end, there is no need for braking grease (you're absolutely correct; the mainspring does not slip). I do, however, lubricate the entire mainspring with Moebius 8200 to prevent rust and so power is delivered smoothly. I didn't get that process on camera, but will try to do so in future videos. Thanks for your question and for watching! I appreciate it very much.
Wow maybe watching these videos is paying off! Thanks for the thought and time you took here to answer my question . Ironically enough I watched another (couple-i am hooked) of your videos and sure enough you did a beautiful Hamilton auto and 'll and behold breaking grease in the barrel. Please keep up the good work the content, narration and in depth explanations are excellent!
I'm always up for learning more. How do you test the pallet indexing? In the video, I do index the fork pretty quickly back and forth, but that was after I had already tested it with a single index to each side. Thanks for watching!
Nice old Hamilton pieces you work on. Great job on getting these working tops , once again.
Thanks for being thorough in explaining the processes and such....for us the newbies is priceless info.
Currently disassembled my Hamilton with a ETA 1220 movement. Fun stuff
Nice restoration. Quality timepiece
Another excellent tutorial. I noticed that you didn’t lubricate the escape wheel pivots before installing the train bridge. Also, with these Hamilton movements I’ve had a difficult time getting the hairspring to fit between the regulator pins. Sometimes it goes together perfectly but mostly it doesn’t. Would you consider doing a video on this? I know this gets pretty granular, but those of us who are hanging on your every word, this would be a great lesson!
In any case, thanks for a nice complement to your 747 movement video!
I learn a whole lot more every time I watch one of your videos. Lovely job.
Thanks Dave, that means a lot to hear. I appreciate it very much.
Nice job! I'm working on servicing a 753 for the first time and this is invaluable. What I didn't see is whether you removed the upper balance end stone setting from the balance cock before you cleaned it. At 12:23 you are oiling the end stone, and the balance cock with the setting and the regulator are all assembled. Did you disassemble it completely before you cleaned it? Thanks for any help.
Thanks for the kind words. Yes, the entire balance cock assembly is disassembled prior to cleaning. It's the only way to ensure the jewels are completely free of any schmoo. Good luck on your project watch!
I have that movement in my Stuart B. Very elegant, durable and accurate
Looks very well made. Lovely restoration.
Thanks Steve!
when the mainspring is fully wound,will not the other end of the mainspring lose its grip in the barrel?
Hamilton made some beautiful watches.
They still do, but they used to too.
-Mitch Hedberg (if he were a Hamilton fan)
I really like your videos. I watch alot of watch servicing videos and I love the way you describe your process. Can you please tell me what that gel like stuff is on the end of a white stick you used to clean off the dial towards the end of the video? Thanks a million!
Hi Troy, thank you for watching! Those are Bergeon Adhesive Swabs, part number 7007-2. I picked them up from Esslinger, as well as Cleaning Pad for Adhesive Swabs Bergeon, part number 7007-C to keep them clean. So far, I'm pretty happy with them, but I wouldn't say they're completely necessary. A clean piece of rodico will do essentially the same job.
Thanks alot!
Sir, Can you tell me what no lens you are using? The image is do big and clear. Thanks.
Just found your channel. Very nice restorations mate. Keep it up.
Thanks
Ps I prefer the ones where you talk us through it like this one. 👍🏻
Thank you very much for the kind words and for the feedback!
Not overrestored! Fine!
Beautiful watch very well restored. Very informative video.
Excellent restoration!
Thank you!
No oiling of the main spring?
U r a master craftsman, keep up this beautiful art in times of mobile phone times!!!!! Sennen Antonio Dourado Wisconsin Milwaukee Mumbai India
I'll do my best! Thanks for watching.
What mainspring winder are you using in this video?
Isn't it best to remove the balance wheel and pallet fork first before anything else in the movement? Also, you skipped over (I think) letting down the wind that is on the watch before removing the stem, ratchet wheel, click, etc.
Nice tip in removing the hairspring stud from the balance wheel assembly. Nice video.
Wolf* how do most crown/stems come out on most watch cases?? Are there tiny screws that have to be loose to pull out stems out?
Hi Mike - Yes. Stems are held in place by the setting lever. The setting lever is held in place by the setting lever screw. This is the screw I point out that is on the watchmaker's side of the movement, holding the setting lever in on the dial side. Once the setting lever screw is loosened, the stem can be removed.
On some watches, there is no setting lever screw. In those movements, the setting lever is held in place by a spring, which needs to be depressed to release the stem.
Good Job!
Thanks!
Very nice job. What is that thing you cleaned the dial with ?
Those are Bergeon Adhesive Swabs, part number 7007-2. They work pretty good for very light cleaning.
Amazing video as usual, but I´d love to see de cleaning process
Thank you very much! I have it on my list to make a cleaning process video. I hope to have that out in the near future.
Serviço excelente,meus parabéns.🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷
Obrigado por assistir meu vídeo
Please show how the parts are washed.
ÓTIMO TRABALHO PROFISSIONAL, BRASIL OK
Muito obrigado!
your blue Moebius grease should work better than the D5 （if I'm not wrong）on the canon pinion
I hadn't considered that....you may be exactly right. I'll give the 9501 grease a try to test it out instead of D5 (you were right). Thank you for the advice, I appreciate it.
Wolfe Vintage Watches The lubrication of canon pinion won't reall affect the timing unless it's really bad. Most of the tech sheet will suggest grease on canon pinion these includes those moebius blue grease 95XX and molykote DX. I did try to use HP1300 and D5. On some movement I don't find issues with it. On particular movement especially those with a tight canon pinion, if you use oil instead of grease it will be very difficult to snap that pinion on to the post. Besides you will get a smoother experience if you apply grease.
@@eatpeach2355 Great points. I've stuck with D5 up to this point because I haven't had any issues and haven't needed to revisit the lubrication charts.
Do you work on both modern and vintage movements? Do you notice any difference between the two as it relates to lubrication of the canon pinion? I have no experience with a movement after 1978, so am curious.
Just curious see other watchmakers actually using breaking (braking?) grease in the barrel. I saw you just lube the arbor unless I missed it. Is that due to the fact this is a manual wind and you do not want mainspring slip? Excellent work, superb narration particularly explaining in such wonderful detail and clarity. Excited about finding your channel cause I am a watchmaker wannabe first class and love this content!!
Hi John - Great question. Yes, braking grease is only necessary on automatic watches or on mainsprings that are designed to slip in modern manual wind watches. This is to not only prevent wear and tear on the barrel walls, but to provide a bit of grip for the mainspring so it doesn't completely unwind. You can see me apply braking grease in the automatic movements from my other videos...this is the first manual movement I've posted.
On these vintage manual wind barrels, since the mainspring is held in place by the T-end, there is no need for braking grease (you're absolutely correct; the mainspring does not slip). I do, however, lubricate the entire mainspring with Moebius 8200 to prevent rust and so power is delivered smoothly. I didn't get that process on camera, but will try to do so in future videos.
Thanks for your question and for watching! I appreciate it very much.
Wow maybe watching these videos is paying off! Thanks for the thought and time you took here to answer my question . Ironically enough I watched another (couple-i am hooked) of your videos and sure enough you did a beautiful Hamilton auto and 'll and behold breaking grease in the barrel. Please keep up the good work the content, narration and in depth explanations are excellent!
Sorry. I had the sound off. You did lube it.
It is my intention to buy one of your pieces. Waiting for my discretionary account to replenish.
Ah yes, I am very familiar with the discretionary/watch fund. Mine never seems to replenish as fast as I think it should...
NO LUBRIFICATIONs ???
Wrong way of testing the pallet movement.
I'm always up for learning more. How do you test the pallet indexing? In the video, I do index the fork pretty quickly back and forth, but that was after I had already tested it with a single index to each side.
Thanks for watching!
I’ve fixed a few....with my chimp hands....compared to the real pros...