Reed vs Piston Port part 2 -
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- Опубликовано: 6 окт 2024
- Things go south, then a bit east at the end...
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Nice work! Just a tip, I already made my own motorized bicycle, the real deal, took a twostroke out of a scooter and built it from scratch. With this angle you have on the carburator it may be complicated to adjust. The carburator should stay parallel to the ground. Mine had this angle problem.
Giovani Filipo Mobrizi Gabrigna just a question. How many of his videos have you watched. You say from scratch like it's some big feat. He built an engine literally from scratch guy. Not just putting parts together.
You are a pioneer of modern motorized bicycles sir.
Anytime I’ve heard that high pitch squeak it’s been because my head wasn’t torqued down enough.
Finding whatever you got that fits is the motorized bike way lol I've spent a lot of time on these engines.
You need to get yourself a set of jetting drills. If you go to big just silver solder the hole closed and start again. Bit of an old scholl method but it works great hope it helps:)
I do!
The rabbit hole runs deep when we want to further investigate our passion due to all the new technology and easy information at our hands it's knowing where to start is the problem. But I'm getting the hang of it. Thinking without your head it's like trying to breathe without a heartbeat. Or vice versa anyway I'm getting the hang of this now. Thank you
Hey Man. Love your videos. I bought a cheap Jet Drill set with pin vise from ebay for tuning. Also if you drill the jet too big just solder it up and re-drill through the solder till you get it to the right size. Cheers
Same lol I even made a video on it.
i made the same comment lol
Or you buy a complete kit with various sizes.
with soldering the jet u wont get as good result as drilling stock jet bigger. the lenght of the hole matters as much as the size of the hole. i have had so much issues with soldering jets, first it runs too rich and i "downsize" the jet and then it wont even run without wetting the sparkplug :D but yea that will work but u just have to have some time and pations doing that.
I’m late again, but yea mate, cheap eBay jet drill set and heat and soldier if you fuck it😁
Tuning carbs for two strokes is very gratifying. The motor really tells you what it wants.
Compare the motor now to how it was out of the box... it revs free now, it was so strangled originally like it was fighting itself just to rev. I’m hoping for a decent figure!
You are an awesome person brother...your kids should be proud
Thanks man!
I have an 86 DT200 that I rebuilt years ago. I had it running but I always wondered why the old piston had ports like you added and the new one from wiseco just had a notch at the bottom.
I will give you a tip! Instead of bying a specific Jet Drilling kit search on Ebay "PCB Drill Set" and you will get a bunch of sets with 10 drills from 0.3mm to 1.2mm for 2.5€. i bought like 6 sets at once about 1 year ago! works fantastic!
Thanks man!
It seems to breathe freely I think, that hole in the wall must work good. If you use solder, be sure to clean away any remains of the flux on the inside of the jet, with a drill bit. Maybe you can use the 0,8 bit in Biltema 19-2009, as a main jet?
Keep upping the good time in the shop, it is very interesting to follow your work.
Thanks! Thanks for the drill bit tip!
I am a fellow gearhead. I got to say I love the way you work on a solution. Just subscribed. I will be interested in your results to see if I am going to install Reed valves on my 80cc.
Thanks!
2STROKE STUFFING quick tip for drilling out jets i use torch tip cleaning files they come in a ton of sizes and are cheaper too. You can use a undersized one and slowly file it bigger. Love your channel btw keep it coming
I know this is old, but Ive had success making tiny 'drill bits' out of welding wire. Snip the end on an angle and leave a wide burr on it, then chuck it up in a drill. Itll still cut the soft jet material. You just need to be patient with it.
You should go with one of the walbro carbs. They are jetless so you can just tune them with the fuel screws.
Really ? what carb please ?
@@MrJermbob any walbro pulse carburetor. they come on chainsaws, and you can find em all over ebay. they're the ones that look like a cube, sorta. Some have external pulse lines, some have internal pulse lines. You need to tie the pulse line into the open crank case somehow or another. Just find the carb with the right bore size for your engine.
If you dont mind running at peak epa performance for that moment in time with absolutely no control of adjustability then sure that will be an awesome carb. For the rest of us that will not settle this carb is absolutely trash.
haha "ah shit we're going to a birthday party (sadface)".. that's real dude :)
Id love some pros n cons on using a float carb Vs a diaphragm carb got load of them on chainsaws and jack hammers why not use them on my mopeds !?!!?
Just looking at some of your earlier vids Alex, I only been on your channel approx 8 weeks........I hope you tightened them headstock bearings before riding this manchine 😬 I thought the stem were going to snap and send you and the bike through the garage door lol......brilliant channel mate, loads of us await your uploads! Bravo!
Honestly that back rim looks like its moving fast asf , I love this
Always a good day with two stroke
Yes!
Really enjoyed the video the filmography was great, especially around the 2 min mark when you started puttin it engine back together. Cant wait to see what it can do!
Thanks man!
On 2 strokes I through the length of intake was very important but maybe with a Reed valve things are different.
Havent you ever tried a Tillotson from an old chainsaw? Like a Stihl 051 or similar? In my country they run competition go karts with a similar carb to those Tillotsons, and the engines are Minarelly based 125cc.
Also, many guys in my country use Dellortos SHA, they bore the venturi out and drill the bottom bowl and make an adjustable needle that goes to the emulsion tube, so they tweak the High from there by hand.
A few recommendations for more power, clean up that hole in the piston and angle the top and bottom sides to “chop” the air passing through. Much more important though is you can add a transfer to the cylinder. I use two thin ones going from the intake up to the height of the other transfers. Just make sure the slots in the rings don’t line up with the new transfers since there will be no wall on them
Good tips, and yeah I could've done a better job on the piston. Having the ring gap running directly over a relatively small port is fine btw, that how I run it in the Spx(and many other builds)
I’m sure you already know but since it’s there, spark to the back to cool the exhaust port and fire more efficiently. Godspeed sir.
Great videos love them all. sometimes i havent any spare jets and i heat the one i have fill it with solder bore it almost through from each end with a bit suitable to the solder counterbored and cleaned both end of the jet then i bore the solder to a size i want if it ends up too big just reheat and fill wth solder for another retry when happy use a piece of wire that fills this hole and measure it to get an idea of the size, ihope this makes sense,
Sounded like it was running perfectly first go even with the jetting that came with the Frankencarb bolt on 🥇
It wasn't too bad, but very lean off throttle - recipe for seizure.
Yeah wouldn’t last long like that but all things considered put up a decent power number I bet
Great video, as for the noise build a cheap ply box over the dyno with recording studio foam on the inside and a big Perspex window so we can watch. Just an idea .
Great idea!
Love every single bit of this vid, even the moment when The Boss called :)
Thanks!
Talk about a cliffhanger :)
Great vids. Thanks for your time. So fun to watch. Keep up the fun job !
Thanks!
4 years later , & things have really
changed.
@Eduardo_Espinoza and now five years later and holy moly have things changed with motorized bicycles! It's crazy! Smolik Performance is the number one leader in pushing out Grade A billet engines and products. Along with the team Ken Hinson and Kelly Cansler designing the A85, good out of the box power can be had at an affordable price now. It's amazing!
I can't wait dyno results, I'm looking after it!!I love when things go to plan mate.Cheers
I'm waiting for the day when you get a KTM 300 exc/sx/xc/xc-w and see how much power you can string out of that
The old machine shop I used to work in had those old black rotary telephones on the bosses desk in every department. There was also lots of Dykem layout grease. Was it any wonder the boss occasionally wandered around the shop with a blue ear? Ol' Popeye was not universally well liked....
well done man don't worry we all have a anti fun department but good luck in the week for a dyno run
Thanks!
I'm losing a lot of power to my pour clutch. I watch all your vids and picked up porting from you but now I need to make a better clutch plate and own pads. Ill make a video to show you. I got a sweet idea on how to mod the clutch plate then I need to make my own pads that fit it. should be fun!
Looking forward to it!
It looked quite feisty in the end there, very curious about the result
Me too!
I've had this same issue by needing a size in between drill sizes. In ended up with jet that was to rich so I lead it closed then drilled it next drill size down and then used wool string to run through the jet used the wool to file out the jet until I got it to work. I tried many times but I finally got there to the right mixture time after time it took a lot of time but boy it was worth it. I got 99 hp on the ground out of 496 cc twin Suzuki with the weight right at 417 lbs bearly over 135 mph and still got 45mpg ay 55mph. never needed spark plugs for over 100,00 miles of use. One owner which was me. chambers at 101 mm max 45 in 27.5mm stinger by 800mm long. Still, piston port system and all were still stock area while the jug raised 5mm the head gasket 2mm brought down to 0.0254mm for the head gasket. Combustion chamber in the head was the same shape as piston crown, I used the pistons to polish the heads and piston with jewelry polish into a mirror-like finish. cleaned the transfers to cylinders transfer channels sizes. Head gasket was Alcoa aluminum foil many cuts until I master perfect fit of a single sheet. All of this in 1977 at sea level while I was stationed in South Florida next to the keys. Oh I re-geared clutch to 2:1, not the stoke 2.5:1 GMC 56:112 tooth gears this had to cut clearances by the screw holes in the cover and longer screws around the 56 tooth gear only later did them all just make clutch changes easier when the clutches needed to renewed about every 35000 miles only if I ran it hard. stoke gearing was 2.5:1 x each gear number 5 of stock transmission 2.2:1 after my work 2:1 same stock transmission 5 gears and 2:1 rear chain set I ended up with large box of reed valves on each still piston port of both cylinders got the low-end torque and the big boxes of reed valves problems made me not have 128 Hp until I made big reed valve boxes for each port. Then I got the very near 100 hp I wanted on the ground at the rear wheel.
Gasolin.no selger dyseborer. 0.35 til 2mm om jeg husker rett. 0.05mm steg opp til 1mm, og 0.1mm steg derfra og opp til 2mm.
Jeg kjøpte fra Gasolin sist vinter for å justere 2 dobble gassere til en bil. Tjente inn kostnadene ved å slippe å kjøpe nye dyser i forskjellige størrelser. Prøvde litt opp og ned, ved å lodde og så bore.
The reason a large carb can work on a reed intake is, the engine pulls only as much fuel as it can use on the vacume stroke, and then closes the reeds on the pressure stroke. There is little to no, overlap timing ( very good low end torque ). So you can use just a portion of a large carb's flow without any reversion to make the response lazy. But the top end power won't be relative to the big carb's capacity.
Enjoyed the video as always keep doing what you're doing.
Thanks man!
I love your videos but I feel you could use some direction to get maximum potential from this engine. You should make a smaller window on another piston, make a decent size 3rd port which matches the width of the piston window, perhaps widen the intake port a little, and stuff the crankcase with " jb quick steel" to increase the secondary compression ratio. When you add the reed and remove ANY material that is not directly inside the combustion chamber, you are decreasing the secondary compression ratio. This not only includes the crank case, but also the inside of the intake port and the volume of the reed! Anywhere behind the reed petals is part of the secondary compression. When you decrease the secondary compression ratio (which I'm sure is already very low in these engines from the factory), you reduce velocity of fuel flow through the transfers. You want as much velocity as possible to increase power and RPM's. For this reason I believe it would be ideal to sand the face of the reed which meets the intake port to make it a bit thinner. The closer the reed petals are to the piston the better. Maybe even sand the face of the intake port as well, and stuff the reed with a bit of jb weld to reduce volume. So long as it doesn't interfere with the reed petal movement. I like to flow the transfer bowls into the crankcase with the direction of the crank rotation. This helps further build velocity. The 28mm carb does not help with velocity, even though it does run. A carb venturi size of around 22mm should be ideal, but some pumper carbs like walbro hda48d and hda 223 run fine and make good power on 60+ cc engines. These carbs have a venturi size of 15mm and 16mm. If you do run a pumper carb you may have to adjust the pop off spring to work best with this engine.
Impressive. Thank you.
I have been watching all your videos and i laugh every time I see a bicycle on a Dino. You know what you need is a insulated sound booth. Kind of like a small paint booth around the Dyno.
13:40 That thing looks like it goes like the clappers!
why not solder the jet so you make make it many sizes and if to big you just solder and drill again?
thats what i do
i do the same thing works pretty good
Should've thought of that, thanks!
hell yeah now you dont have wait for jets more awesome vids and i have this engine this is a gt5 with a type b piston
I like that your shirt matches the bike frame
i like his bargaining skills.proper bloke.
Well done i like your can do attitude. Look forward to dyno
Thanks!
I have the same problem when I’m having fun tuning. Wife and work take precedent. If only we had the time for our fun time.
I can't live without my jet reamer (not drillbits), you need to buy a kit :)
Dang buddy I have been with you for some time and really look forward to each an every video you put out. I wish I could help you with patron. I also have a family a couple bikes to. Hope things are good brother. God bless
Great video mate! watching your videos makes me want to dyno my DT50MX (tuned up obviously)
Thanks!
harveym i got one too
It sound better and better. Good work
I've lead shoulder the jets that were made to large then drilled back original the used wool string to file out the jet little by little until it got the right color, { colour }, on the sparkplug. It is a slow way but it will work with those odes sized jetting.
This is a good channel, for checkin out a hobby many people have, I have built many bikes, always faster than the 1 before, the last 2 bikes, had the most reliable, and powerful motors were husquvarnas biggest concrete cutoff saws 124.7cc, they sound like a 125 motorcycle when you replace the stock exhaust, with an expansion chamber, and clutch is big enough and its a belt drive so figuring out the drive, is not complicated, compression release makes starting much easier, its fun to play with 2 strokes, I would like to experiment with a rotary valve intake 2 stroke if they still make any, well enough, ill keep checkin you're channel see what you come up with next, waitin to see the castings become a bad ass kickin build, and very high rpms, don't give up, it will happen.
Have you read the Jennings 2stroke tuners guide ,it's a big read and a lot to get your head around but worth the read ,the length of induction affects your port timing cycle ,it goes through all that and more ,other good book is another guide covering race tuned go karts but can't remember the author though ,both are considered bibles of 2stroke tuning
Yep, definitely a good read. If you haven't, and want to go deeper, I highly recommend Blairs work!
Might not sound like a big deal but if you put in some skf 6202-2rsh bearings the motor will be a lot smoother spinning and these bearings have better performance life span
well you can ether invest in carby jets for random carbs ... or u could invest it a jet drill kit .. on ebay pretty cheap i don't know much about them but u may benefit . sense its become a common issue
Yes Sundays were always hard to get away with LOL. I used to run chainsaws in the 80s and they had the Reed valve on the chainsaw right after the carburetor and what you really got me going on this one of us the guy who had this before me I put it on somewhere else which makes a lot of sense. They have a lot to do with back pressure or your bottom pressure or I don't know what it is but these motors are so simple to run that used to make them so simple to run back in the 80s late 70s it was nothing but a piston with a carburetor on it and a little wheel for the chain that's it now I think they make them so damn cheap they look nice but they're cheap anyway great work. I'm ready to take my bike out now I'll see if it's a disaster or if it works.
Hey mate,thumbs up for the effort.
I drill out all my jets and its a simple way of doing it,if you want some info about how i do it i can mail you,and add a few photos too.
Thanks!
You could have tried raising the float by like .5mm before you drilled out the jet.
you need a Jet drill set and some little pins in different sizes to check you jet
You can solder and redrill. Micro drill bit kits are dirt cheap off amazon.
I am an honda mbx 50 owner. Some times i am thinking that another reed valve placed in the exchaust side will make motor to work more efficiently . During compression the reed will be closed because the pressure until the exchaust port will be totally covered by piston is not high. As a result there is no loss of mixture in the exchaust. When the ignition takes place the the high pressure can open the reed valve (in the exchaust side) and maybe this will work great. What is your opinion?
If u used an extra base gasket and an extra head gasket u would essentially have a stroker motor the two gaskets would act as a cylinder wall this way u get higher compression and can adjust to the finest degree by shaving the head and too of the cylinder down to get the tightest squish possible
a float carburetor wont like that angle its fitted on.. if that helps .. if u had the ibea on there it would be ok with or walbro..
True, but the PWK will work fine at a slight angle.
Awesome stuff love these vids I want to see what this thing can do! Keep it up
Thanks!
Awsome Sir you are leaving Great footprints for me too follow,Thank you Sir
Each reed valve was the smallest I could find this was for reed valve mass reasons twelve per cylinder, yes 24 total reed valves for the engine. Great torque from idle right throughout the whole power band and finally stopped the top flow resistances by angling and letting them open toward the inlet port. I did put screen wire mesh to catch any broken reed valves that might break over time but they never did at least until over 100,000 miles until the bike got stolen, I never got the word about the bike from the police even right to this present day. I would love to find another GT 500 Suzuki twin I 'll do the same to it as I did then it was a great bike. But now I'll do some different to the oil pathway just to see if I could reduce the oil burning to the level of four strokers, you know like about three thousand miles per quart oil but I'll two stroke oil that is bio typed not pumped oil based.
I want to seal off the mains yet flow to both ends of the rod and sealing these to flow throw the wrist pin bosses the lastly to smallish holes to the back of the piston rings groves via as many holed ports as is necessary I pull and put pistons until I find the right number of oiling ports that let enough oil to lube the piston and rings for reasonable wear limits and then take to an EPA testing shop in one of these states around here. just to see if it will pass a new standard EPA automotive level per one/half-liter volume-metrics. As 1976 motorcycles did not need it. If I could get it to pass then maybe factories will follow in to make two strokers again for motorcycles. It may not pass otherwise The Big Four of Japan would have done it. But then again they not have had the high wear polymers that we have today for the seals. Now we have polymers that swing from 5000 psi at room temp to 10psi at 5000 degrees R which did not even have to use until 1983 or 1984.
Love the channel.
You should really think about trying to get some sound deadening in your shop. Nothing too fancy, but something is better than nothing.
Thanks! You're right!
@9:46 the power of women....I've got the same problem for 29 yrs
Yep...
Power of the Pussy :P
Scrap it, that's what I did :)
Don't put your head on backwards. You're just making your exhaust port, and that area of the piston really hot. You want to have propagation happening away from that area. This will keep the combustion area heated more evenly, reducing the likelyhood of seize damage.
your video is getting better and better now, love it !
if you have a chance, maybe try build or tune vespa engine, it's 2 stroke too ! :DD
Thanks! Could be fun, I've built one for a Piaggio Ape before.
Hey love your videos but just like bret redfern commented down bellow you should kinda break in new reeds, and bigger carb makes tuning that small of an engine really hard because it flows too well and doesn't create enough suction. you'd be better off with a max 24mm carb
Good point about the carb, we'll see how it goes. Too bad my 24mm is converted to methanol/nitro. I've never heard about breaking in reeds, have to do some research.
support on patron is fine but we support you here and now we have lost the plot on whats happening :(
Its a seperate project, does not affect the plot for the bicycle or spx
Don't worry, Patrons just get a peak into projects that's coming but haven't been revealed to the "public" yet. No one will be left out, patreon or not.
Yep
And I really appreciate the support!
thanks for clearing that up. Loving the channel btw
awsome video man and some real life family issues and bartering :) i can relate to that :)
Thanks!
I was waiting for you to grab a random carb hell yeah!
Random carb = best carb
Ford For Life damb straight! What’s up man!
@@MRTuning704 not much fools stroke problems still bro
Transfer ports are being bypassed from the hole in the exhaust side of piston.
I'd be very interested to see how the Walbro carb does on the bike engine- possibly with the pulse line hooked up I saw a guy on RUclips drill out a hole in the case near the clutch cable stay to run into a diaphragm carb.
They should allow for easy tunning the smaller one is good for 12 hp and the larger makes around 17-20. It would be eaist to have hole on the crank side of the reed valve. Would make for much easier tunning.
I ran. The walbro carb for over 10 years they come with the Yamaha KT100 Go Kart race. Motor never a problem but new caskets once a year.
Yeaaaaa new carb anything is better than original that comes with engine. You modified the slider cable increasing the vacuum leak at slider. The stock carbs have really bad loose fit for the slider as carbs get smaller the fit of the slider and pull cable boss become increasingly more critical that is why manufactures of small displacement engines use different type of carb. You'r engine has reed valved intake and this reduces the vacuum impulse that the other needs. Stick with a quality well built carb like the one you installed. You know the adjustments on this one soon as it starts easy and maintains solid idle tune for power knowing carb is over sized so rolling on is the trick don't expect to go WOT and let it wind up the over size will cause lean out. Good luck you may have found an optimum combination.
The Reed valve makes the engine smoother and sound better
You should put a big car muffler on the bike
Good tip!
you have to build one with a stihl 49mm piston and cylinder. called a minifrank
New various sizes of M4 main jets are found here:
www.jawashop.com/by-category_k10/fuel-system_k88/#page=3
They are standard to Jikov carbs and a few other European old type carbs.
I've spent decades tuning Jawa and CZ road bike engines so use a fair few of these.
Sizes of M4 main jets range from 58 to 120 in steps of 2. However what sizes they have in stock at any given time varies week to week so it can take a while to amass the full range collection.
Thanks!
I've just had a quick look at that blair book ,yeah it's gonna be a nice read ,thanks for the tip mate ,have you had a look into the Konig tuners ?
Can you do a video where you show your garage setups and bikes etc
Sure!
Almost there. And wen we get there.... Heaven.
The reed valve itself does not create power it only prevents fuel return back out the carburetor
Raising cylinder may have gave better results by raising exhaust port at same time no?
my old 83 kx80 had the same carb and jetting as a ts185 I still have the carburettor here if you want the details
Get yourself a set of jet reamers from louis.de! It`s only 20 euros or so but it makes wonders for stuff like this. Even if you F-up a jet you can solder it shut and ream back to needed size.
I`m super pumped to see the results of the reed test. I`ve cast and machined my own reed valve kit last year but never tested it due to lack of free time :(
Thanks for the tip!
the carb is bigger than the engine :) seems you really need some serious sound proofing for garage.
I really do!
Bro what was the music in this vid? Sounds like Tipper. PS love your work one of the best on yt & good luck with the salt beast!
DYNO... I can't wait
Cant wait till the spx returns
And the real queston
Will it still be called a spx cause it wont have many spx parts left
Been wondering myself, the only thing left would be the rear pulley and the wheel...
thos reed valves suck i have one it ended up in the trash mine would over rev to much no way to adjust it the carb u have i also have that one carb is good cool vid
you need some index drills you can just twist em with your hand