mine went from 27 to 30 PSI and from then on out it never increased even after continuing to add more. Idk if it was incorrect or somehow not refilling.
Great product! I was apprehensive about doing this myself but it was so simple and now I have really cold air in the car! The auto shop wanted $140 and 3 hours of my time. I did it in 10 minutes for $60.
Hey guys Chris fix here lol anyway I just did this to my suv the digital gauge was jumping all over the place it would go low as 16 psi then shoot up to 41 psi but what I seem to notice is when I kept filling the system the psi would move slightly higher than at some point I noticed my A/C compressor would kick on and off but and I kept filling the system the A/C compressor kick on and stayed on once that happened the psi stayed consistent and I was able to get a good read to the tune of 20 psi kept filling her up to the top now it’s Alaska I’ll keep you guys posted
Hi, I have the same problem. Did you read the low psi or the high psi? The high for mine goes up to 49 psi and than it goes down to 16psi. But still no cold air ..
My digital display is reading a psi of 90+ when NOT connected. I’m wondering if this is a defect on the display. I seem to not be getting a good psi reading. Shouldn’t the psi reading read 0 if not attached to anything ?
No, the hose holds pressure even when disconnected since there's the check valve on the end. If you pull the trigger to release pressure after it's been disconnected from the can and system the pressure reading will go down.
@@Acprocold Finally. I did not pull the trigger on the guage. I haven't attached it to the can yet. Just checking the PSI first. That explains why it was at 100 psi when i hooked it up. This time ill press the trigger before attaching it.
The ports in the video have what's called a dust cap on them. This cap serves the same purpose as the one you've probably seen on a tire's valve stem. It would have definitely been on there when the vehicle was new, but may have been taken off and not replaced at some point in time. We do sell replacements at your local auto parts store.
My pressure was 26psi. On the low end of the green. I added some but only got to 30psi. It would not go up from there no matter how many times I added refrigerant. Air is maybe a little cooler but not cold like I was hoping. Leak?
Question: after charging my AC using your product AC was cold. A day after I had the car running on idle with AC on and compressor was purging with white smoke. AC still blowing cold after. What could cause this?
No, I would say most likely not related. The refrigerant system is a closed system. Even if you had a leak in your evaporator, which usually sit closest to the cabin, a leak big enough to make a hissing sound wouldn't last long before your system lost all refrigerant.
My pressure reading was 24 added about half a can and pressure never changed. Went ahead and added the rest of the can pressure still reading 24. Is that normal?
How do you know that you had half a can left? Perhaps the can is empty and that's why the gauge reading isn't changing. The pressure on mine went up from 27 to 36 p.s.i. when I was charging it and then suddenly stopped, so I am assuming that the can is empty (hopefully not a leak in the system).
Not necesssarily doing anything wrong. Warmer temperatures increases the pressure in the system and depending on the system design there may be a higher set pressure in your vehicle.
Yes, you can. We have an A/C Pro High Mileage refill can with stop leak. www.acprocold.com/product/acp-307v-high-mileage-r-134a-a-c-recharge-with-uv-dye-12oz/
Compressor goes off and on could not get read out. Starting filling when compressor on it was at 25-30. When off it would read 75 which is above red zone. Compressor still intermittent while charging. Is 75 bad news Help. Thanks Update. Watched video again. It worked ice cold!
On one of your other videos or web pages, you said you need to adjust the fill based upon ambient temp and the guage turned to adjust. But this video seems to imply that adjustment for ambient isn't required. Did something change?
Pressure in the system does change based on outside ambient temperature (i.e. higher temps = higher pressure), but we removed that from our gauges many years ago because it was a confusing concept for consumers to understand.
@@Acprocold Thanks. Some of the photos online of your products still show that gauge even in the same listing that shows it not having that gauge. What is the expected accuracy of the built in guage? +/_ 5 psi, for example? I ordered a can last night, so I'll figure it out either way. Thanks again.
How does this gauge work with different temperature ranges while filling. I know you can adjust an analog gauge depending on temperature. Should I be concerned that this doesn’t have that feature if I’m filling up in certain temperatures outside?
This gauge works exactly the same as an analog gauge with regards to pressure. Just uses a digital pressure transducer instead of a Bourdon tube in an analog gauge. If you need a guide on how to adjust the pressure to account for outside ambient temp, please refer to this chart. www.acprocold.com/faq/r-134a-system-pressure-chart/
You need to read the pressure when the it's cycling. You can hear the compressor cycling on many vehicles. It will click to engage. If you read the pressure when the compressor is not on it may give you a high pressure reading. The compressor pressurizes the gas in your system as it pushed it to the high side. It will pull gas in from the low side where you're reading pressure from as it does this. More than you need to know., but that's what's going on.
There are many reasons other than low refrigerant that may be causing warm air to blow from vents. That's why we recommend just checking the pressure first to make sure you're low before adding so you can return the product if you don't need.
The pressure reading may bounce up and down due to the compressor cycling. Take the pressure reading when the compressor is on. There videos will help. ruclips.net/video/XAlw_aoaPF8/видео.html ruclips.net/video/ldNPhoIpN6c/видео.html
The gauge will read the pressure of what it's connected to. If it's connected to the system it will read that pressure. If it's just connected to the can, it will read the can pressure. If it's not connected to either of those if will read the pressure of the gas in the hose. The hose has a check valve that will hold gas in the hose.
@paultparker - there are two potential reasons the gauge might not be fitting on your vehicle - you bought a can with 134a inside and your system takes a new environmentally-friendly refrigerant called 1234yf. 1234yf has fittings that are different from 134a (by regulation). Or you are are trying to attach the gauge to the high side port. Look for a sticker underneath your hood that lists the refrigerant type and make sure you are using that same type. Our port finder tool can help you find the right port to connect to. www.acprocold.com/a-c-port-finder/
The actual problem was just pulling out the battery tab before the gauge could come on. I didn't notice that and finally found it deep in the comments on the video. Might consider mentioning in the app.
My Psi goes from 40, down to 19 then back to 40 every 10 seconds or so. I noticed the compressor rotates then stops and rotates again every 10 seconds as well. What does this mean ?
This is typical for many systems. The compressor will cycle on and off as needed. You should take the pressure reading whent the compressor is engaged.
That's correct. If your engine is on with the A/C on max cool and fans on high and you are getting a high pressure reading when the compressor is engaged, you need to take it to a licensed technician.
Yes, this can happen as the compressor cycles on and off. You should take the reading when the compressor cycles on, which will typically be the low pressure reading.
Have you pulled out the plastic tab? Also, try pulling out the battery receptacle from the housing and push it back in to make sure it's seated properly.
The pressure on the gauge may fluctuate as the compressor turns on and off. Read the pressure when the clutch engages. When the clutch engages the pressure will go down.
The gauge can't read pressure from your system when you're squeezing the trigger (charging your system). To read the pressure of the system, you must release the trigger to check. Continue this process until you're in the green with cold air blowing from the vents.
The digital readings will be off if its not completely plugged in, it was saying mine was 90 and i would squeese the trigfer and it wouldnt change much, and then i realised the plug wasnt completey in, it goes really far into the thing that sticks out of your car, you will def see/ hear a snap and when you pull the trigger it should make an audible sound. Strangly though even after i got it snapped on and squeezed the trigger till i got cold air the psi reading stayed at 0 X'D this thing is NOT fool proof but you can make it work
If your vehicle is on, A/C on max cool, the compressor clutch is engaged (hear a humming sound), and the pressure reading is high we suggest you return the product if you haven't used any refrigerant and see a professional technician. You may have an issue unrelated to low refrigerant.
"We simply attach the quick connect coupler to the low side pressure port by pushing to snap it on. The coupler will click once it's secure." Uh, nope. Won't connect. Tried several of my cars.
If it doesn't easily connect you may have one of two issues 1) you have found the high side port and not the low side port. They look similar, but are not compatible 2) you have a vehicle with 1234yf and are trying to use a product containing 134a. 1234yf vehicles have low side ports that are unique (by law) to make sure the proper refrigerant is used to recharge. Look for a sticker under the hood to help you determine which refrigerant you have.
If your engine is on, A/C on max cool, and the compressor clutch is engaged when you take the pressure reading and the PSI is 151, you probably have an issue besides low refrigerant so we recommend you have a professional technician take a look.
The digital gauge does give the actual pressure reading. The digital pressure transducer that takes the reading is actual more accurate than the Bourdon tube in an analog gauge.
Is your engine on with the A/C turned on max cool with the fans on high? If so and you're still getting a high pressure reading, take the product back to the store and get a refund without using. You most likely have another issue besides low refrigerant causing your issue.
@@Acprocold it was on full blast but I found that the A/C clutch relay fuse is blown out. I put a new one on and it was working just fine but then it blew again after 10 mins of driving. I’m thinking the coil in the compressor is messed up? I don’t have a voltmeter otherwise I’d check that connection .. got any tips ?
Actually, the gauge has a check valve in it by law that will hold refrigerant in the hose therefore the gauge is reading that pressure. If you squeeze the trigger to release the pressure from the hose it will move to zero.
Even when it's not connected to the can the check valve in the hose will hold gas in the hose so the gauge will read that pressure. If you squeeze the trigger to release the gas from the hose, the pressure reading will go down. It's a requirement to have the check valve in the hose due to the length.
I prefer the analog. This digital keeps giving me wrong psi readings
Shit says 150 soon as I put it on🤦🏽♂️
Same here
Same so it wrong
mine went from 27 to 30 PSI and from then on out it never increased even after continuing to add more. Idk if it was incorrect or somehow not refilling.
30 psi is all it has. Mine went from 22 to 31
@@chaseprice5590
Great product! I was apprehensive about doing this myself but it was so simple and now I have really cold air in the car! The auto shop wanted $140 and 3 hours of my time. I did it in 10 minutes for $60.
Great video. Went from 7psi to 40 psi in minutes with cold air. 👍👍👍
Great 👍
Hey guys Chris fix here lol anyway I just did this to my suv the digital gauge was jumping all over the place it would go low as 16 psi then shoot up to 41 psi but what I seem to notice is when I kept filling the system the psi would move slightly higher than at some point I noticed my A/C compressor would kick on and off but and I kept filling the system the A/C compressor kick on and stayed on once that happened the psi stayed consistent and I was able to get a good read to the tune of 20 psi kept filling her up to the top now it’s Alaska I’ll keep you guys posted
Hi, I have the same problem. Did you read the low psi or the high psi? The high for mine goes up to 49 psi and than it goes down to 16psi. But still no cold air ..
Lol. Funny guy
@@ALCRAN2010Do you contribute anything of value to life or is this just a thing you do on youtube
HEY!!! You forgot to say "Pull the plastic battery buffer out to activate the electronics." I had to make 2 trips to auto zone to figure that one out.
Maybe you should avoid working on your car 😂😂
Hallelujah! It works
Do you need to worry about purging the air from hose first?
This is what I want to ask!
Seems hard, looks easy. Thank u!
You're welcome 😊
My digital display is reading a psi of 90+ when NOT connected. I’m wondering if this is a defect on the display. I seem to not be getting a good psi reading. Shouldn’t the psi reading read 0 if not attached to anything ?
No, the hose holds pressure even when disconnected since there's the check valve on the end. If you pull the trigger to release pressure after it's been disconnected from the can and system the pressure reading will go down.
So I did this and it will only show a bogus number either time. I Paid autozone a good bit of dollars buddy
Same here, mine keep reading 115-130
@@screenheads3812any update? mine is doing the same 😭
@@Acprocold Finally. I did not pull the trigger on the guage. I haven't attached it to the can yet. Just checking the PSI first. That explains why it was at 100 psi when i hooked it up. This time ill press the trigger before attaching it.
does the low pressure port hose always have insulation on it, like the one you showed in the video does?
The ports in the video have what's called a dust cap on them. This cap serves the same purpose as the one you've probably seen on a tire's valve stem. It would have definitely been on there when the vehicle was new, but may have been taken off and not replaced at some point in time. We do sell replacements at your local auto parts store.
My pressure was 26psi. On the low end of the green. I added some but only got to 30psi. It would not go up from there no matter how many times I added refrigerant. Air is maybe a little cooler but not cold like I was hoping. Leak?
I use half of the bottle, can I disconnect the hose from the bottle? Does the refrigerant left escape from the bottle?
Yes, the can has a self-sealing valve so disconnecting the hose will not release any refrigerant inside.
@@Acprocold That's good . The old style AC pro did not have the feature and when i removed the guage it sprayed refrigerant everywhere. lol
Thank you for this video! It helped me a lot. Im ready for the summer now 😎
Glad it was helpful!
I went from 2psi to 46psi in uner 15 sec.... am I missing something??
Question: after charging my AC using your product AC was cold. A day after I had the car running on idle with AC on and compressor was purging with white smoke. AC still blowing cold after. What could cause this?
Follwing
Probably leaking a/c comp
Awsome im a pro now lol.. thank you for this awsome video
Glad it helped!
Hello, Is a hissing sound coming from my car vents a sign of low refrigerant?
No, I would say most likely not related. The refrigerant system is a closed system. Even if you had a leak in your evaporator, which usually sit closest to the cabin, a leak big enough to make a hissing sound wouldn't last long before your system lost all refrigerant.
My pressure reading was 24 added about half a can and pressure never changed. Went ahead and added the rest of the can pressure still reading 24. Is that normal?
Same thing happened to me what did u do
happened to me 5 times.
i already added 6 cans and the pressure reading is the same haha
How do you know that you had half a can left? Perhaps the can is empty and that's why the gauge reading isn't changing. The pressure on mine went up from 27 to 36 p.s.i. when I was charging it and then suddenly stopped, so I am assuming that the can is empty (hopefully not a leak in the system).
Most likely you have a leak somewhere in the AC loop
My gauge when I turn it on is already starting at 70 . Then I attach it to my car and it goes higher than that. I'm at 110.
Too much refrigerant can lead to warm air, that’s a nice way of saying you just blew out your Ac compressor seals 😂
How come mine says 0pressure?
What is the meaning of that
Mine keeps reading 100psi when I turn it on, does anyone know how to fix that?
Mine says 80.
Same with mine keeps reading 100-120
Same
Mine too
I’ve had my car for 2 years and my psi shows 50 what em I doing wrong or is my reader wrong
Not necesssarily doing anything wrong. Warmer temperatures increases the pressure in the system and depending on the system design there may be a higher set pressure in your vehicle.
Can this be used with a uv dye which can detect a/c leaks?
Yes, you can. We have an A/C Pro High Mileage refill can with stop leak.
www.acprocold.com/product/acp-307v-high-mileage-r-134a-a-c-recharge-with-uv-dye-12oz/
Compressor goes off and on could not get read out. Starting filling when compressor on it was at 25-30. When off it would read 75 which is above red zone. Compressor still intermittent while charging. Is 75 bad news Help. Thanks Update. Watched video again. It worked ice cold!
Glad it worked. Read the pressure when the compressor is cycling on.
@@Acprocold Thanks
On one of your other videos or web pages, you said you need to adjust the fill based upon ambient temp and the guage turned to adjust. But this video seems to imply that adjustment for ambient isn't required. Did something change?
Pressure in the system does change based on outside ambient temperature (i.e. higher temps = higher pressure), but we removed that from our gauges many years ago because it was a confusing concept for consumers to understand.
@@Acprocold Thanks. Some of the photos online of your products still show that gauge even in the same listing that shows it not having that gauge.
What is the expected accuracy of the built in guage? +/_ 5 psi, for example?
I ordered a can last night, so I'll figure it out either way. Thanks again.
The gauge is accurate within +/-
How does this gauge work with different temperature ranges while filling. I know you can adjust an analog gauge depending on temperature. Should I be concerned that this doesn’t have that feature if I’m filling up in certain temperatures outside?
This gauge works exactly the same as an analog gauge with regards to pressure. Just uses a digital pressure transducer instead of a Bourdon tube in an analog gauge. If you need a guide on how to adjust the pressure to account for outside ambient temp, please refer to this chart. www.acprocold.com/faq/r-134a-system-pressure-chart/
@@Acprocold is this why the new gauges do not have the dial that can move to align with the ambient temps ?
@@Acprocold can you use this gauge on both low and high sides just to get a reading? I thought this gauge only worked on low pressure side.
@@timothy9360 Low only accoriding to the video.
What does compressor must be engaged mean. Mine clicked when I put it on with the car running and AC on. Though the result showed up as zero
You need to read the pressure when the it's cycling. You can hear the compressor cycling on many vehicles. It will click to engage. If you read the pressure when the compressor is not on it may give you a high pressure reading. The compressor pressurizes the gas in your system as it pushed it to the high side. It will pull gas in from the low side where you're reading pressure from as it does this. More than you need to know., but that's what's going on.
The digital gauge wasn’t working for me. Kept saying I was still low but the van was almost empty
Mine is click off and on and the Guage is jumping up and down and no cold air
Mines is saying 37 so is this thing broke or I have other issues?
There are many reasons other than low refrigerant that may be causing warm air to blow from vents. That's why we recommend just checking the pressure first to make sure you're low before adding so you can return the product if you don't need.
I am guessing I have a leak because I have like 25 psi then it slow goes down little by little 24, 23,22,21 all the way down to like 2
Great instructions! Thx!
Glad it was helpful!
i'm using the digital and hard to know if its overcharged or undercharged coz the digit is unstable
The pressure reading may bounce up and down due to the compressor cycling. Take the pressure reading when the compressor is on. There videos will help.
ruclips.net/video/XAlw_aoaPF8/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/ldNPhoIpN6c/видео.html
So, is the engine running, AC on, on recirc, during the whole process?
Yes!
Help, the gauge reads out 5 psi even when it’s disconnected or when I try to connect it. Pls get back to me
The gauge will read the pressure of what it's connected to. If it's connected to the system it will read that pressure. If it's just connected to the can, it will read the can pressure. If it's not connected to either of those if will read the pressure of the gas in the hose. The hose has a check valve that will hold gas in the hose.
I connected it all up, but the gauge would not come on. I tried pressing on and off. No dice. I guess this one's defective; frustrating.
@paultparker - there are two potential reasons the gauge might not be fitting on your vehicle - you bought a can with 134a inside and your system takes a new environmentally-friendly refrigerant called 1234yf. 1234yf has fittings that are different from 134a (by regulation). Or you are are trying to attach the gauge to the high side port. Look for a sticker underneath your hood that lists the refrigerant type and make sure you are using that same type. Our port finder tool can help you find the right port to connect to. www.acprocold.com/a-c-port-finder/
The actual problem was just pulling out the battery tab before the gauge could come on. I didn't notice that and finally found it deep in the comments on the video. Might consider mentioning in the app.
My Psi goes from 40, down to 19 then back to 40 every 10 seconds or so. I noticed the compressor rotates then stops and rotates again every 10 seconds as well. What does this mean ?
This is typical for many systems. The compressor will cycle on and off as needed. You should take the pressure reading whent the compressor is engaged.
how do you turn A/C Pro "on"? I pushed the button but nothing happens.
Did you pull out the plastic tab under the gauge face that enables the battery?
My car is not trying cold after what does that mean ?
My car has a max AC setting, do i turn that on n too before i start?
Yes, turn it your A/C setting on max cold before starting.
My gauge reads 128 what does this mean ?
There can be many reasons you're getting a high pressure reading. Can be as simple as forgetting to turn on the engine and A/C on max cool.
i show 0 psi in the reading, and then I can't charge it into the car, not sure why.
Is your engine on with the A/C turned on max cool with the fans on high when you go to recharge the system?
@@Acprocold yes
What if you accidentally let it get to 61 and it still blows warm air? Asking for a friend
You should have a professional technician remove the excess refrigerant you added to your system.
@@Acprocold Or use a gauge from one of your old cans and a towel (a friend told me LOLOL).
My low pressure side reads 128 psi. I guess it's off to a mechanic.
That's correct. If your engine is on with the A/C on max cool and fans on high and you are getting a high pressure reading when the compressor is engaged, you need to take it to a licensed technician.
Does this work on any car?
Will work on any car with R-134a in the system.
The numbers on my gauge keep jumping up and down
Yes, this can happen as the compressor cycles on and off. You should take the reading when the compressor cycles on, which will typically be the low pressure reading.
The gauge won't turn on. Is there a secret code or did I just waste $60?
Have you pulled out the plastic tab? Also, try pulling out the battery receptacle from the housing and push it back in to make sure it's seated properly.
Why my gauge fluctuate?
The pressure on the gauge may fluctuate as the compressor turns on and off. Read the pressure when the clutch engages. When the clutch engages the pressure will go down.
How to reset mine it’s jumping from 25 to 81 in 15 sec
The pressure fluctuates due to the cimpressor cycling on and off. Read the pressure when the compressor is on.
Does the car need to be on while putting the AC?
Yes, engine needs to be on with the A/C on max cool with the fans on high.
While recharging my gauge spiked to red then back to low 🤔
That can happen depending on the cycling of the compressor and system design.
Reading stuck at 0 every time I squeeze
The gauge can't read pressure from your system when you're squeezing the trigger (charging your system). To read the pressure of the system, you must release the trigger to check. Continue this process until you're in the green with cold air blowing from the vents.
I went from 115 psi to 0 psi after holding it for almost 15 mins checking every 15 seconds
My psi reading was 120?😮 still blowing hot air😢
The digital readings will be off if its not completely plugged in, it was saying mine was 90 and i would squeese the trigfer and it wouldnt change much, and then i realised the plug wasnt completey in, it goes really far into the thing that sticks out of your car, you will def see/ hear a snap and when you pull the trigger it should make an audible sound. Strangly though even after i got it snapped on and squeezed the trigger till i got cold air the psi reading stayed at 0 X'D this thing is NOT fool proof but you can make it work
@@SoldatDuChristChannel thanks buddy
I connected the coupler, gauge read 115+, what do I do ?
If your vehicle is on, A/C on max cool, the compressor clutch is engaged (hear a humming sound), and the pressure reading is high we suggest you return the product if you haven't used any refrigerant and see a professional technician. You may have an issue unrelated to low refrigerant.
It will read high if the compressor isn't on and then read lower when the compressor is on (assuming that everything is functioning correctly).
Same what did you do ? Did you get it fixed
Run for your dear life 🏃♂️ 💥 😂
My psi is 48 but it’s still blowing hot
So what happened? Did you figure it out?
"We simply attach the quick connect coupler to the low side pressure port by pushing to snap it on. The coupler will click once it's secure." Uh, nope. Won't connect. Tried several of my cars.
If it doesn't easily connect you may have one of two issues 1) you have found the high side port and not the low side port. They look similar, but are not compatible 2) you have a vehicle with 1234yf and are trying to use a product containing 134a. 1234yf vehicles have low side ports that are unique (by law) to make sure the proper refrigerant is used to recharge. Look for a sticker under the hood to help you determine which refrigerant you have.
What if reading says 151?
If your engine is on, A/C on max cool, and the compressor clutch is engaged when you take the pressure reading and the PSI is 151, you probably have an issue besides low refrigerant so we recommend you have a professional technician take a look.
Thank you so much for your help.
Bro my shit been at 0 PSI for a minute now
What do I do if its reading 0
Ever find out?
Can’t believe they didn’t help you
That means that all of the coolant has leaked out of your system due to a leak or the A/C Pro gauge is broken.
❤ty
The digital sucks it doesn’t give actual reading I prefer the old style
The digital gauge does give the actual pressure reading. The digital pressure transducer that takes the reading is actual more accurate than the Bourdon tube in an analog gauge.
My psi is at 125 wtf
Is your engine on with the A/C turned on max cool with the fans on high? If so and you're still getting a high pressure reading, take the product back to the store and get a refund without using. You most likely have another issue besides low refrigerant causing your issue.
@@Acprocold it was on full blast but I found that the A/C clutch relay fuse is blown out. I put a new one on and it was working just fine but then it blew again after 10 mins of driving. I’m thinking the coil in the compressor is messed up? I don’t have a voltmeter otherwise I’d check that connection .. got any tips ?
Gage is crap. It read 45 psi disconnected
Actually, the gauge has a check valve in it by law that will hold refrigerant in the hose therefore the gauge is reading that pressure. If you squeeze the trigger to release the pressure from the hose it will move to zero.
@@Acprocold that’s not my case. It’s not connected to the bottle.
Even when it's not connected to the can the check valve in the hose will hold gas in the hose so the gauge will read that pressure. If you squeeze the trigger to release the gas from the hose, the pressure reading will go down. It's a requirement to have the check valve in the hose due to the length.
turn off that stupid music cant hear the guy talking.