Keith, I want to thank you, and the other talented individuals that make yourselves available to newbies like me. If it weren't for people like you, these great talents and techniques could be lost to the next generation. Keep up the great work.
The manual for my 60 year old Clausing lathe agrees with you, the Key-Way should be up when mounting the chuck. Keep the videos coming, you are a great craftsman. Thanks, Bill Lee
I do not have an overhead trolly but the way I deal with large chucks is to take 4x4 and 2x4 stock that span the bed and make a build up and simply scribe the chuck diameter on the build up and cut it out on the bandsaw. Then I just slide it underneith the loosend chuck and slide it out and across the ways onto one of my die or lift tables. Once again thanks for all your expertise and informative videos and mostly sharing your time. Getter Done! Brian
And thank you so very very much for that sheet of plywood over the rails. I'm still trying to regrow my hide where my boos chewed it off for heavy weight above those pristine 60 year old rails. Oh by the way, Keith, your acumen, knowledge and expertise is nothing short of astounding. So many honed skills, the mind boggles.
The factory that I work in has an OMAX waterjet, we can do 1" stainless plate. On the downside, the thicker the material is, the more draft angle you get. It works out to about 1 degree @ 1/4" thickness. I like what you said about "showing more options" to your viewers, I'm 68 now and my heart yearns to teach others before I pass on, after all, there were many in my life who gave freely of their knowledge, so that I might learn the many things of which I have a level of mastery. Thanx again KF..
Totally old school, from the profile burn , block and tackle handling, changing chucks, truing up, to the basic machining skills, will all be features of the past sadly for those brought up in the CNC generation with no fell for the machine ! Hats off sir even if it was "Bobby Basic"
Nice video Keith, I'm sure this will be very helpful for lots of people. Just a quick simple tip that was shown to me by a life long toolmaker before he put away his tools for the last time. When setting your work piece in the jaws lay a parallel across the top of the jaws then put your work upto it, you'll still need to clock it for precision stuff, but you'd be surprised how close you can get it, couple of taps with soft hammer and away you go.
Nice demo Keith. Thanks for the insight. I feel like I am so fortunate to look over the shoulder of a master craftsman willing to share his techniques. If you don't mind, I am going to copy your boring bar holder design to improvise one for my 13x40 lathe. I need to make deep bore holes on aluminum extrusions with a good finish and can't find any commercial hardware to hold the bar with import lathe.
Thanks for the comment, not all of us have all the same machines and or tooling and we practice getting to the same results at the end of our projects, some of my choices are whats the norm for me and sometimes I pick a route, that someone else may be able to use, or just trying out new ways with the new machines or tools I may acquire. ;{)-----
Thanks for the comment and I have been sent a few spot drills plus I have found a few more in some of the boxes not yet gone through and have been giving it a fare shake. I do have to say so far I have not noticed any less accuracy using the spot drills! ;{)---
Awesome video keith. I actually prefer watching all of the setup that you do to ensure that things run true. I recently had to fabricate some seal plates, so i made a fixture for my lathe chuck . Ill send you the pics. The bore came out centered within half a thou. Couldnt have done it without watching your videos. Thanks again!
Hi Steve thanks for the comment! I hope we never stop learning, I believe crossing the trades, like a machinist becoming a welder or a welder becoming machinist will better your old habits, with your old trade and strengthen the new trade when it really relates closely to the old trade like weld fits / preps and build ups for machining, the quality both applying the weld and machining it to shape! ;{)---
Welcome aboard, thanks for this comment! My We, is my wife and kids support, and all the mentors and coworkers, shared experiences I have rolled up into my talents, along with what you and I learn from this point on! ;{)---
The reason I leave a little drop material around the part is because I want the cut or outside surface to be uniform all the way around the part. Thanks for the comment! I'll be doing a video on the nesting software in use soon and I will be showing material saving. ;{)---
The torch I have is only a 60 amp and can cut 1" with no problems but piercing I have to pilot drill. I could have easily marked and pre drilled holes, like I have shown in other videos but thought about showing other ways for the guys that were hinting for more lathe videos. I'm trying to spread or change up all the time when I can and when the work allows me to demonstrate new options, for someone who may not have a PlasmaCAM or the other way, no mill / lathe but has the other tools. ;{)---
Subscribed - I may be a bit too poor to get into machine work, but it interests the heck out of me. I feel like I save up and pick up a small Harbor Freight cheapie lathe just to start screwing around with one.
Hi I am a wood turner and saw your heading between the boxees, and thought that I would have a look and see what it's about glad I did, it was very interesting did not relise that it takes so long to set a job up that's why engineering cost so much to have done I could not believe the size of that chuck it must cost 1,000 s of dollars. thanks again looking forward to watching 2nd part Great video cheers George smith scorpionwoodcraft.co.uk In Whitby
It's interesting to see metal turning. As you probably gathered from my last comment, I do wood turning. I have a wood chuck that looks very much like a miniature version of your 4 jaw chuck, complete with the lines. I also turn faces, and have to make the face true and drill. There are a lot of similarities to what you do and what I do even though they are so different. The reason I was looking at chucks is I want one with curved jaws which grab wood better than those points. self centering too
I sling the oil, and wipe off the excess from time to time. They do have the seasoned look but have zero rust. I'm a mile from the beach so I have to keep them oiled and in the winter with the wood stove going the machines are at their best. In the spring and fall when the humidity climbs, I'm more generous with the oil. ;{)---
Another nice video. Its gotta be so frustrating to you though since if it wasn't for your good intentions to teach us all, you could get the job done in a fraction of the time. But its great to watch. Thanks Keith
You made my hernia's hurt removing that 3 jaw. May I suggest making wooden cradles for the chucks? I always used a cherry picker to lift the chucks with an I-bolt. Once you are injured you'll wish you had. I have had a few operations because I thought I wouldn't get hurt. Got carpel tunnel from pounding on things with my hand. Mallets work much better. Just a suggestion.
Hi Shaun, There are many ways to align the part within the jaws; the surface gage was my preference. Sometimes I have used the tool bit in the holder,as a pointer, as long as you can establish a reference of trueness. ;{)---
I think your talking about the guide rollers for the up and down control, on th PlasmaCAM, rollers have bearings that are running on shoulder bolts that are threaded into the piece behind it. ;{)---
You know, I've recently found that starting with a hole saw works well for me. I recently did a little project where I cut four 1-3/4 holes in .650 A2 tool steel with a hole saw and then bored them to 1.80. It saved a lot of time!
It’s not the first time; I view it as if you’re working on the operator side of the bore and with the tool cutting on the back side. That is one of the beauties of the tracer over the taper attachments! ;{)---
All the talk of tapers reminds me of one of Abom79's videos. He was talking about taper shank drills but i heard paper shank drill. Wow, this is going to be real interesting, a paper shank drill. Oh well, never mind, good videos, here and Abom79. Thanks Both
No I haven't, but it looks like it got the job done! I was hoping to see how you added the new splines, to that pulley, looked pretty thin walled. ;{)---
Very good tip and practice that myself, pretty regular when using the three jaw. I knew the slightly angled slope from the plasma cut was going to cock the grip. Thanks for the feed on that subject! ;{)---
An easy way to center a square work piece in the 4 jaw I've found is to mark out by hand and drill a hole on center on the drill press, then you can use that hole to clock up from on the lathe with a finger dial indicator.
cool. that is some sweet chip from the drills. i wish i would have gotten to do some stuff like this. it was cool to see a 4 jaw chuck in action too. i have only ever used a 3 jaw.
Yea, last week when everyone thought I was on vacation, I had lost control of my hard drive in the computer that runs the PlasmaCAM and was running back and forth to see the Geek squad and upgrade a couple other things like mirroring hard drives with windows 7 so I don’t have to wait for them to repair or replace one!
The main reason it was a problem with the flywheel was that it is of cast material and cast that is brought back to molten stage the second time buy welding hardens and becomes crystallized. Mild steel doesn’t get a hard surface from the plasma cutting. ;{)----
Sounds like fun. Cool idea if having a cloned drive to through in just in case it fails at the worst time. We all know if one is going to crash, its when you need it most.
Greetings and Merry Christmas Keith, I really enjoy your videos. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge. I have relatives on the Cape and enjoy your weather updates when it is ugly up there. I suspect a marine application for your flange. Could you have cut a round on the plasma then lathe work and then squared it off in the mill? Why does everybody leave material on the outside of the part? why not cut three sides not four? would seem to use materials better. Thanks Dudley
Ever thought of holding a smaller 4 jaw chuck in the 3 jaw for smaller jobs such as this? I've seen our machinist do it often for smaller parts that need to be held in a 4 jaw, instead of changing out the chuck
I meant to type a response with the video- Have you ever used a carbide "hole saw" For large bores? I have gotten many new ones on ebay for an average of around $5 each. They are made for a triple thread acme type screw, but I go through them with a 17mm and then tap them with a 3/4-16 thread. Usually less than .002 off. I have since made a holder with an MT-3 taper.
OOOO that explains why it looked a little different but we have and 18" with t nut slots too go on our monarch 18 x 72, talk about a smooth and quiet running machine.
Cant wait to see the next video..ive never cut tapered internal threads..im sittin here trying to figure out your next move..lol will he use the compound? or will the tracer allow you to just use the cross slide.
On a curious note, why didn't you burn out the large center hole with the plasma cutter, and finish up with a boring bar, and then cut the threads last? Even the mounting holes could've been neatly piloted with the plasma torch. Thank you for an informative video and a great lesson in lathework, as a fact, it's my pleasure to know you Keith!
Hah, funny about the reversed mandrel! I actually thought it looked wrong and even backed the video up to make sure I didn't see it incorrectly but then just figured I was not thinking about it clearly ... only to find out in the end it was backwards. Interesting using the tracer to cut pipe threads though, I have not done that on my lathe before.
Cleveland is a good go to brand, I shop deals and such also, but when it comes to a lot of holes to be drilled or tapped, buy a few different brands if you can, put them to the test, sometimes, the off the wall one sometimes does just as good, but most of the time the price, dictates the quality. ;{)-----
Quite a novice myself and until recently only had a 4 jaw and no thread cutting, made a similar plate for an OMC exhaust elbow. I used a round plate, torchcut the center hole, finished it up with a light bore on the lathe then welded in a threaded sleeve, then used a power bandsaw to make it square without distortion. Would starting and indexing everything on a circular plate before making it square be faster? Thanks as always for your teachings.
you know when a 3 jaw is heavy is when it bounces the camera when you set it down . I remember in High school a non listener( we were told never to reverse cut threads on that lathe ) was reverse cutting threads on our clausing and he unthreaded the chuck and it rolled off the spindle and hit the ways , took a chunk out of them and also cracked the 12" thick concrete floor under it when it hit it .
I would of had to drill a starter hole, for the pierce, because of the thickness and just traded off the time to set up for that with drilling out the center. Sometimes my head gets caught up in showing a few request as I cruz along with a video! ;{)---
I took a old 4x4 post and made a made a cradle to set my big chuck on when I pull it off the 16" lathe. It's so heavy, more than 40lb.I would say. but I also made a thing I can slide it off onto on the other side then pick it up easy.
Since you were cutting on the plasma cutter, why didn't you start the hole with that? As long as it was a bit too small, the boring bar would clean it up easily. Was it the issues with piercing the heavy plate? Dave 8{)
No way cnc could do this faster for just one part. If you had to write a program, set up the work, and do all your offsets, Keith would have this part finished, delivered, and paid! In fact, I am sure the tooling and set up cost for alone for doing this cnc would exceed what Keith charged for the finished part.
In the repair business you have to improvise always and that is the fun part of it! Nice job! (Your lathe is a Colchester so to see, but I did not recognise the type?)
It was thin on the one side. I took off a little material on the other side and left a flange on the female splined section. even used on eBay, this pulley gets $120-$150 with worn splines. A $15 piece from surpluscenter makes it like new again. It was a ~2000lb press fit and the weld probably wasn't needed. I made the fit a little less tight on the thin side.
whats your take on clocking off of the jaws of the vice when doing this? is it valid a method, or do you recomend that scriber on the stand? The set up videos your putting up a brilliant for somone like me that doesnt machine alot so your experience is really handy for reference.
carryit around a parallel would be ok to start if you indicated the face still it'd get you started. multijones if the piece wasnt already centered when you drilled and reamed you would just cut a offset hole it wouldnt help. i use a dial indactor for all the sides not just the face. but thats just me. kinda rock the chuck up and down and find the lowest spot on the sides and match 2 and 4 and 1 and 3. as long as you got some decent flats on each side you can get it with in .001-.002.
больше смотрю вас чем своих да и взять есть что иногда думаю как бы это сделал я за станком с70года вообще очень люблю 4 кулачковый патрон на нем можно делать все
So Keith you almost ready to put your best foot forward? I need a video Ha Ha watching a four year old rerun still good stuff not sure what your job is your doing but just watching you work is okay Ha Ha
does the plasma harden the material along it's path? I ask because i just watched the video with the flywheel and the weldings that were giving you a hard time at the milling machine:)
I didn't catch why you're using a tracer attachment rather than a taper attachment. It sounded like the taper attachment had the advantage of allowing the use of the compound, but then you used the tracer.
I've watched about 50 or 60 of your videos now.. and I have never seen anyone else working alongside you. can you pplllllllllllllllllllleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeaase drop the "WE"? there's just you there! its just you, im not there, no other viewer is there.. its just you. u'r alone in the shop lol. ppleeeaaasee... Great videos anyhow!
This is known as the "editorial "WE"", common practice used by editors, writers, etc., to avoid the too personal or specific I or to represent a collective viewpoint.
My way- transfer punch corner holes. locate center hole from them. Drill all 5 holes with bolt clearance drill. Open center hole to Dia. just less than OD of lathe tail stock center. Make one pass with boring bar if hole wanders. Mount block loosely on faceplate. Center it with spindle by pushing tail center into hole. Mount securely. Get er done. Not acceptable for precision layout.
im also using a 4x4 version of plasma cam up here in maine. im running a flat radius tipped hypertherm powermax800 if you wouldnt mind me askin what are you running ipm and what kind of spacing with your torch head
Keith, I want to thank you, and the other talented individuals that make yourselves available to newbies like me. If it weren't for people like you, these great talents and techniques could be lost to the next generation. Keep up the great work.
The manual for my 60 year old Clausing lathe agrees with you, the Key-Way should be up when mounting the chuck. Keep the videos coming, you are a great craftsman. Thanks, Bill Lee
I do not have an overhead trolly but the way I deal with large chucks is to take 4x4 and 2x4 stock that span the bed and make a build up and simply scribe the chuck diameter on the build up and cut it out on the bandsaw. Then I just slide it underneith the loosend chuck and slide it out and across the ways onto one of my die or lift tables. Once again thanks for all your expertise and informative videos and mostly sharing your time. Getter Done! Brian
And thank you so very very much for that sheet of plywood over the rails. I'm still trying to regrow my hide where my boos chewed it off for heavy weight above those pristine 60 year old rails.
Oh by the way, Keith, your acumen, knowledge and expertise is nothing short of astounding. So many honed skills, the mind boggles.
I like the way you admit you had the taper in wrong. Takes a real man to admit that. Thanks for all the help you have given me.
The factory that I work in has an OMAX waterjet, we can do 1" stainless plate. On the downside, the thicker the material is, the more draft angle you get. It works out to about 1 degree @ 1/4" thickness. I like what you said about "showing more options" to your viewers, I'm 68 now and my heart yearns to teach others before I pass on, after all, there were many in my life who gave freely of their knowledge, so that I might learn the many things of which I have a level of mastery. Thanx again KF..
Totally old school, from the profile burn , block and tackle handling, changing chucks, truing up, to the basic machining skills, will all be features of the past sadly for those brought up in the CNC generation with no fell for the machine ! Hats off sir even if it was "Bobby Basic"
You know what I really like about you is. You don't try to hide your mistakes.
Just wanted to say howdy, and thanks ! I learn something everytime I tune in. I made my living welding for 34 years, now I'm learning some new things.
Nice video Keith, I'm sure this will be very helpful for lots of people. Just a quick simple tip that was shown to me by a life long toolmaker before he put away his tools for the last time. When setting your work piece in the jaws lay a parallel across the top of the jaws then put your work upto it, you'll still need to clock it for precision stuff, but you'd be surprised how close you can get it, couple of taps with soft hammer and away you go.
Nice demo Keith. Thanks for the insight. I feel like I am so fortunate to look over the shoulder of a master craftsman willing to share his techniques. If you don't mind, I am going to copy your boring bar holder design to improvise one for my 13x40 lathe. I need to make deep bore holes on aluminum extrusions with a good finish and can't find any commercial hardware to hold the bar with import lathe.
Thanks for the comment, not all of us have all the same machines and or tooling and we practice getting to the same results at the end of our projects, some of my choices are whats the norm for me and sometimes I pick a route, that someone else may be able to use, or just trying out new ways with the new machines or tools I may acquire. ;{)-----
Thanks for the comment and I have been sent a few spot drills plus I have found a few more in some of the boxes not yet gone through and have been giving it a fare shake. I do have to say so far I have not noticed any less accuracy using the spot drills! ;{)---
I could watch you work all day
Awesome video keith. I actually prefer watching all of the setup that you do to ensure that things run true. I recently had to fabricate some seal plates, so i made a fixture for my lathe chuck . Ill send you the pics. The bore came out centered within half a thou. Couldnt have done it without watching your videos. Thanks again!
Thanks for the comment George, welcome aboard! ;{)---
Hi Steve thanks for the comment! I hope we never stop learning, I believe crossing the trades, like a machinist becoming a welder or a welder becoming machinist will better your old habits, with your old trade and strengthen the new trade when it really relates closely to the old trade like weld fits / preps and build ups for machining, the quality both applying the weld and machining it to shape! ;{)---
Welcome aboard, thanks for this comment! My We, is my wife and kids support, and all the mentors and coworkers, shared experiences I have rolled up into my talents, along with what you and I learn from this point on!
;{)---
Thanks for the Comments and love to take a look at them! ;{)---
Thanks for the comments by the way and welcome aboard! ;{)---
Fantastic , looking forward to seeing how you keep the bits so sharp.
The reason I leave a little drop material around the part is because I want the cut or outside surface to be uniform all the way around the part. Thanks for the comment! I'll be doing a video on the nesting software in use soon and I will be showing material saving. ;{)---
One in 1,737,240 pretty dam good, thanks for the comment! ;{)---
The torch I have is only a 60 amp and can cut 1" with no problems but piercing I have to pilot drill. I could have easily marked and pre drilled holes, like I have shown in other videos but thought about showing other ways for the guys that were hinting for more lathe videos. I'm trying to spread or change up all the time when I can and when the work allows me to demonstrate new options, for someone who may not have a PlasmaCAM or the other way, no mill / lathe but has the other tools. ;{)---
Subscribed - I may be a bit too poor to get into machine work, but it interests the heck out of me. I feel like I save up and pick up a small Harbor Freight cheapie lathe just to start screwing around with one.
Keith good video lots of info. Nice cut with the plasma cam I think you're right at the limit of thickness.
Hi I am a wood turner and saw your heading between the boxees, and thought that I would have a look and see what it's about glad I did, it was very interesting did not relise that it takes so long to set a job up that's why engineering cost so much to have done I could not believe the size of that chuck it must cost 1,000 s of dollars. thanks again looking forward to watching 2nd part Great video cheers George smith scorpionwoodcraft.co.uk In Whitby
It's interesting to see metal turning. As you probably gathered from my last comment, I do wood turning. I have a wood chuck that looks very much like a miniature version of your 4 jaw chuck, complete with the lines. I also turn faces, and have to make the face true and drill. There are a lot of similarities to what you do and what I do even though they are so different. The reason I was looking at chucks is I want one with curved jaws which grab wood better than those points. self centering too
I sling the oil, and wipe off the excess from time to time. They do have the seasoned look but have zero rust. I'm a mile from the beach so I have to keep them oiled and in the winter with the wood stove going the machines are at their best. In the spring and fall when the humidity climbs, I'm more generous with the oil. ;{)---
Another nice video. Its gotta be so frustrating to you though since if it wasn't for your good intentions to teach us all, you could get the job done in a fraction of the time. But its great to watch. Thanks Keith
You made my hernia's hurt removing that 3 jaw. May I suggest making wooden cradles for the chucks? I always used a cherry picker to lift the chucks with an I-bolt. Once you are injured you'll wish you had. I have had a few operations because I thought I wouldn't get hurt. Got carpel tunnel from pounding on things with my hand. Mallets work much better. Just a suggestion.
Hi Shaun, There are many ways to align the part within the jaws; the surface gage was my preference. Sometimes I have used the tool bit in the holder,as a pointer, as long as you can establish a reference of trueness.
;{)---
I think your talking about the guide rollers for the up and down control, on th PlasmaCAM, rollers have bearings that are running on shoulder bolts that are threaded into the piece behind it. ;{)---
You know, I've recently found that starting with a hole saw works well for me.
I recently did a little project where I cut four 1-3/4 holes in .650 A2 tool steel with a hole saw and then bored them to 1.80.
It saved a lot of time!
You must love the time that the plasma cam saves you.
It’s not the first time; I view it as if you’re working on the operator side of the bore and with the tool cutting on the back side. That is one of the beauties of the tracer over the taper attachments! ;{)---
Great tree ornaments on those two last drillbits :)
love your tips keith. use your flapper wheel all the time now. awesome tip
in one of the last videos I did on American crane, I show the kit I bought from Airgas, made by Thermal Dynamics! ;{)---
All the talk of tapers reminds me of one of Abom79's videos. He was talking about taper shank drills but i heard paper shank drill. Wow, this is going to be real interesting, a paper shank drill. Oh well, never mind, good videos, here and Abom79.
Thanks Both
No I haven't, but it looks like it got the job done! I was hoping to see how you added the new splines, to that pulley, looked pretty thin walled. ;{)---
Very good tip and practice that myself, pretty regular when using the three jaw. I knew the slightly angled slope from the plasma cut was going to cock the grip. Thanks for the feed on that subject! ;{)---
An easy way to center a square work piece in the 4 jaw I've found is to mark out by hand and drill a hole on center on the drill press, then you can use that hole to clock up from on the lathe with a finger dial indicator.
cool. that is some sweet chip from the drills. i wish i would have gotten to do some stuff like this. it was cool to see a 4 jaw chuck in action too. i have only ever used a 3 jaw.
Just when you think the drill bit is already big enough, he replaces it with something even bigger. Wow.
Outstanding camera work!
The wife is complaning that i would rather watch you than go to bed lol
Good tip with the alloy packing pieces
I really love the "we" in your movies! :-)
Interesting, thank you for posting this.
Yea, last week when everyone thought I was on vacation, I had lost control of my hard drive in the computer that runs the PlasmaCAM and was running back and forth to see the Geek squad and upgrade a couple other things like mirroring hard drives with windows 7 so I don’t have to wait for them to repair or replace one!
I wondered if you didn't put that mandrel in backwards at first. :) Awesome videos. You make it all look so easy.
Agree - you could even center punch and use a wiggler or just bring the tail stock center close to the work to line up.
Yes, the four jaws have such bad bell mouth in the jaw grips It is an up hill battle, because they tilt outward as the tension is applied. ;{)-----
The main reason it was a problem with the flywheel was that it is of cast material and cast that is brought back to molten stage the second time buy welding hardens and becomes crystallized. Mild steel doesn’t get a hard surface from the plasma cutting. ;{)----
Sounds like fun. Cool idea if having a cloned drive to through in just in case it fails at the worst time. We all know if one is going to crash, its when you need it most.
Greetings and Merry Christmas Keith,
I really enjoy your videos. Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge. I have relatives on the Cape and enjoy your weather updates when it is ugly up there.
I suspect a marine application for your flange. Could you have cut a round on the plasma then lathe work and then squared it off in the mill? Why does everybody leave material on the outside of the part? why not cut three sides not four? would seem to use materials better.
Thanks Dudley
Ever thought of holding a smaller 4 jaw chuck in the 3 jaw for smaller jobs such as this? I've seen our machinist do it often for smaller parts that need to be held in a 4 jaw, instead of changing out the chuck
I meant to type a response with the video- Have you ever used a carbide "hole saw" For large bores? I have gotten many new ones on ebay for an average of around $5 each. They are made for a triple thread acme type screw, but I go through them with a 17mm and then tap them with a 3/4-16 thread. Usually less than .002 off. I have since made a holder with an MT-3 taper.
Just waiting for them to come down a bit in price, 1,000 for 1 tb is close to price now!
OOOO that explains why it looked a little different but we have and 18" with t nut slots too go on our monarch 18 x 72, talk about a smooth and quiet running machine.
Cant wait to see the next video..ive never cut tapered internal threads..im sittin here trying to figure out your next move..lol will he use the compound? or will the tracer allow you to just use the cross slide.
On a curious note, why didn't you burn out the large center hole with the plasma cutter, and finish up with a boring bar, and then cut the threads last? Even the mounting holes could've been neatly piloted with the plasma torch. Thank you for an informative video and a great lesson in lathework, as a fact, it's my pleasure to know you Keith!
Hah, funny about the reversed mandrel! I actually thought it looked wrong and even backed the video up to make sure I didn't see it incorrectly but then just figured I was not thinking about it clearly ... only to find out in the end it was backwards. Interesting using the tracer to cut pipe threads though, I have not done that on my lathe before.
Sorry don't know which video it would of been in! ;{)---
Cleveland is a good go to brand, I shop deals and such also, but when it comes to a lot of holes to be drilled or tapped, buy a few different brands if you can, put them to the test, sometimes, the off the wall one sometimes does just as good, but most of the time the price, dictates the quality. ;{)-----
The taper key? I like it up, rather than down. Helps with alignment.
You can buy new from MSC and other retailers and also at used tool supliers in the big cities. ;{)---
Quite a novice myself and until recently only had a 4 jaw and no thread cutting, made a similar plate for an OMC exhaust elbow. I used a round plate, torchcut the center hole, finished it up with a light bore on the lathe then welded in a threaded sleeve, then used a power bandsaw to make it square without distortion. Would starting and indexing everything on a circular plate before making it square be faster? Thanks as always for your teachings.
you know when a 3 jaw is heavy is when it bounces the camera when you set it down . I remember in High school a non listener( we were told never to reverse cut threads on that lathe ) was reverse cutting threads on our clausing and he unthreaded the chuck and it rolled off the spindle and hit the ways , took a chunk out of them and also cracked the 12" thick concrete floor under it when it hit it .
I would of had to drill a starter hole, for the pierce, because of the thickness and just traded off the time to set up for that with drilling out the center. Sometimes my head gets caught up in showing a few request as I cruz along with a video! ;{)---
I was running that I believe, between 8 & 10 IPM and the height was .170 to .190 ;{)-----
Operating a 4jaw looks very hard as opposed to a 3 jaw you just tighten up. Could you slide a parallel behind the part? Great vids Keith. Getter done.
The Jaws are worn and what they call bell mouth and as you tighten they push the part outward and so the parallels fall out. ;{)------
I took a old 4x4 post and made a made a cradle to set my big chuck on when I pull it off the 16" lathe. It's so heavy, more than 40lb.I would say. but I also made a thing I can slide it off onto on the other side then pick it up easy.
I bought it, showing those signs, of cracking in 1994, LOL ;{)---
Since you were cutting on the plasma cutter, why didn't you start the hole with that? As long as it was a bit too small, the boring bar would clean it up easily.
Was it the issues with piercing the heavy plate?
Dave 8{)
No way cnc could do this faster for just one part. If you had to write a program, set up the work, and do all your offsets, Keith would have this part finished, delivered, and paid! In fact, I am sure the tooling and set up cost for alone for doing this cnc would exceed what Keith charged for the finished part.
That is a huge chuck. I'm looking at one for a wood lathe with the largest jaws of 4 3/8" and that is larger than most.
Now i've watched all or most of his videos i have to agree :D..
In the repair business you have to improvise always and that is the fun part of it!
Nice job!
(Your lathe is a Colchester so to see, but I did not recognise the type?)
The lathe I have with a taper attactment is my 13" southbend, little light on hogging material. ;{)---
It was thin on the one side. I took off a little material on the other side and left a flange on the female splined section. even used on eBay, this pulley gets $120-$150 with worn splines. A $15 piece from surpluscenter makes it like new again. It was a ~2000lb press fit and the weld probably wasn't needed. I made the fit a little less tight on the thin side.
I will get out my scale for the lift when I switch them back and check that! I would just be guessing. ;{)---
bellissimo!
It's his way of thanking his past mentors.
could you not drill and ream for a dowel pin in the location and then indicate the pin to find center?
Those giant drills with the taper. Did you make those like that? Or do they come like that. Thanks for vids. Always good and informative.
Taper shank drill bits come like that and are pretty popular to this day! ;{)------
I bought them! ;{)----
plus, you could always use your ssd as cache, and have a mechanical drive as storage room..
whats your take on clocking off of the jaws of the vice when doing this? is it valid a method, or do you recomend that scriber on the stand? The set up videos your putting up a brilliant for somone like me that doesnt machine alot so your experience is really handy for reference.
carryit around a parallel would be ok to start if you indicated the face still it'd get you started. multijones if the piece wasnt already centered when you drilled and reamed you would just cut a offset hole it wouldnt help. i use a dial indactor for all the sides not just the face. but thats just me. kinda rock the chuck up and down and find the lowest spot on the sides and match 2 and 4 and 1 and 3. as long as you got some decent flats on each side you can get it with in .001-.002.
больше смотрю вас чем своих да и взять есть что иногда думаю как бы это сделал я за станком с70года вообще очень люблю 4 кулачковый патрон на нем можно делать все
So Keith you almost ready to put your best foot forward? I need a video Ha Ha watching a four year old rerun still good stuff not sure what your job is your doing but just watching you work is okay Ha Ha
the ground shook when that chuck hit the turf lol
does the plasma harden the material along it's path? I ask because i just watched the video with the flywheel and the weldings that were giving you a hard time at the milling machine:)
I didn't catch why you're using a tracer attachment rather than a taper attachment. It sounded like the taper attachment had the advantage of allowing the use of the compound, but then you used the tracer.
I've watched about 50 or 60 of your videos now.. and I have never seen anyone else working alongside you. can you pplllllllllllllllllllleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeaase drop the "WE"?
there's just you there! its just you, im not there, no other viewer is there.. its just you. u'r alone in the shop lol. ppleeeaaasee...
Great videos anyhow!
Why do you care so much about this, this word is obviously a problem to YOU and not him so get over yourself ya freak otherwise just MUTE it DUH
It's called viewer involvement !
This is known as the "editorial "WE"", common practice used by editors, writers, etc., to avoid the too personal or specific I or to represent a collective viewpoint.
He says the "we" includes all the people that got him where he is - his mentors, his co-workers, his wife, etc etc
Perhaps years later you now understand the "We"
My way- transfer punch corner holes. locate center hole from them. Drill all 5 holes with bolt clearance drill. Open center hole to Dia. just less than OD of lathe tail stock center. Make one pass with boring bar if hole wanders. Mount block loosely on faceplate. Center it with spindle by pushing tail center into hole. Mount securely. Get er done. Not acceptable for precision layout.
:O That's almost the size of my chuck :D
how thick is that steel? just curious for the plasma cutter.
im also using a 4x4 version of plasma cam up here in maine. im running a flat radius tipped hypertherm powermax800 if you wouldnt mind me askin what are you running ipm and what kind of spacing with your torch head
Why didnt you do the hole with the plasmacutter? Would seem like a faster/easier way to me than swapping all those drill bits.