Jason thank you very much for building this for me. It was great working with you (through emails) and I am very excited to receive the devices and get them connected to my Tank!
I know this video is kind of old, but I'd like to share my idea anyway. you will need a slightly bigger reservoir with 4 exits, 4 peltier modules (they are 40x40mm in size), one waterblock 40x160mm (that will be attached to hot side of modules), one heatsink 40x160 or close to that, that will be cooled by peltier modules while submerged in a reservoir. you'll obviously will need to use something instead of water. either mineral oil or anti-freeze liquid. to power up all of the 4 modules I suggest using a separate PSU. there's a trick how to run it without a motherboeard. the concept behind this crazy setup is that 4 of the modules will dramatically decrease the liquid temperature inside the reservoir. 2 exits will guid the liquid to a CPU waterblock and cool it down. another two will lead the liquid to a waterblock attached to a hot side of modules. sounds stupid, but I think it is worthy of a shot.
Jeremy Cheung Very cool. I'm not sure what instrument you would need for that but this setup is less than $150 total. It needs some refinement but the concept is sound.
Well, I am a graduate student working at a college lab. There is a big machine using silicone oil as a coolant. What I am wondering is that could we control the temperature? Also minus 20 degree is low enough for my research, is there any low power peltier somewhere?
Yes, the one I am using in the video is a 5 amp unit (@12v so 60 watts). There might be smaller out there. How much of a volume of liquid is there to cool down?
Peltiers are awesome, I have a similar setup but was using the water cooling loop for the hot side since water is a better thermal conductor, cooling a heat sink with a fan blowing across it. The heat sink would cool enough to frost up but would warm up rather quickly once ambient air was drawn across it. Hopefully we see more efficient peltier devices in the near future with the advancements of nanotubes and graphene technology.
That would be nice. Right now they are power hogs but still useful in some cases. I just ordered parts to get to work on a new liquid cooled refrigerator using a peltier so stay tuned for that! Thanks for watching!
Zen Innovations I’ve been trying to get knowledge to make this, but doing it with solar panels, makes the building price rise up like hell, could you help and tell me how to make it? I will be really really thankful with you!!!
extremely pleased to see this. no question small spaces like micro-campers and related would benefit. also would like to see a heat "tablet" with coupled-Peltier chips, heat sinks, on-off switch, thermostat controller, 12 batter hookup, 110 converter, plugin .. for hot-cold environs
That would be pretty cool. You could cascade 2 peltiers together to get colder temps (low volume) and rig up a way to reverse the polarity so that you could switch from hot to cold. I've done the thermostat thing before and it works okay, although heat soak causes problems. A better idea would be instead of shutting off power altogether like a thermostat does you could limit the current to a small amount to keep the cold side slightly cool and not feed heat back into the system.
The cooling coefficient of performance for thermoelectric devices is less than 1. That is, for a watt of energy in, it moves less than a watt of heat. It's really very inefficient unless you have a good use for the waste heat generated. You would get much better results moving your projects to compressor-based heat pumps rather than thermoelectric. You can even skirt around some of the limitations of EPA-required refrigerant certification by choosing propane or butane as your refrigerant. They perform at about the same level as R-12 (original Freon) did, and those chemicals are gaining rapid acceptance in Europe as the depth of experience puts the explosion fear to rest.
David Casas Absolutely. I am sure I could have squeezed another 5 degrees out of this experiment easily with some insulation and a thermos or something to keep the liquid in. I just wanted something that you could see into for video purposes.
I'm really curious about this: Say you take a 10" x 10" x 10" waterproof, plexiglass box with a removable lid. You install the peltier device onto one side of it so that the heatsink is located on the interior of the box and is submerged in water when the box/reservoir is filled with fluid. You could do this by getting a heatsink that is a few inches or so wider and taller than the peltier device and cooling block, followed by cutting a square hole in the plexiglass (big enough only for the actual peltier device and cooling block to fit into) and mounting/sealing the heatsink from the inside. This would allow the bottom edges of the heatsink to properly seal against the plexiglass (to waterproof it) while leaving enough surface area exposed to attach the peltier device to the heatsink from this newly cut, exterior "window." This way the actual peltier device can be correctly installed to the bottom of the heatsink (as well as the cooling block) which would again, technically locate them on the exterior of the plexiglass box. Now, do you think if you installed a pump to circulate the reservoir fluid up through a tube and out of the top of the plexiglass/reservoir box, through the cooling block, and back into the same reservoir (that the heatsink is installed in) would work? Would the cooling effect of the peltier device outweigh the expelled heat of its own heatsink and cool the water, or would the heat overtake the cooling ability of the peltier and warm the fluid (water) instead? I would imagine that the system could be battling itself, in a sense. Or maybe the heat will slowly dissipate and the cooling effect would take over? How would alcohol perform in place of the water? Do you have any input? I would really, really, appreciate any information that you have to offer here.
It all depends on how efficiently you can shed heat on the hot side. That is where you make all the difference and where you should put your efforts and money. CPU water coolers designed for computers work great for this. The lower you can get the hot side temperatures, the colder the cold side temperatures will get. That is how a temperature delta works.
I am working on a Project similar to this in the hopes of building a Freezer with peltier using 80mm Radiator on the cool side and 240mm on the hot side. Also will be using a 3 X 9amp Peltier Units Will post how is goes...
I am so glad I came across your videos do you think it would work well enough to keep the water cool well it is running through a personal cooling vest?
That would be a great use for this but the only problem is you would need battery power if you want to be mobile. And with the huge amount of energy that these peltier chips use, you would need a lot of very heavy batteries to use it for a meaningful amount of time.
@@LDSreliance Thank you that answers my question I wanted to use a motorcycle battery on an off-road quad bike Is there anything you could think of that I could rig up for staying cool on a quad bike?
Only one I know of is by Sony and is about $120 USD (rough translation from Yen on this site: pur.store.sony.jp/lifestyle/products/reonpocket/RNP-1A_purchase/) Hopefully in the next decade battery tech will become cheaper and a lot more efficient and we can all have portable air conditioners. Thanks for the sub!
Could you please post links to where you purchased your components? I am interested in building a similar set up. Specifically the submersible water pump, the peltier, and the 12 volt power supplies. Thank you.
I get most of my stuff like that from Amazon because every once in a while I get a really shoddy product and they are great about returns. I also get free 2 day shipping with Amazon Prime. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Z6ZR5O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EJ9WBPU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009X6ADCM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Very neat just ordered stuff from your kit site!! I wonder if windshield fluid or a different liquid could cool even more because it has a freezing temperature lower than water or would it ruin the motors do you think?
Coolant is probably ok since it is designed to be friendly to the materials in your car's cooling system. But alcohol and other liquids may not be a good idea.
thanks for the reply, I learned a lot from your video looked threw some of your other videos but did not fine any with a temp setup looking forward to future videos
I had a thought. If you have one of those portable room to room air conditioners where you need to vent the hot side through a window or vent with a big pipe, and it costs a fortune to run and is pointless if you have the window open, couldn't you use your idea to do the following; Safely cut, vent and remove the compressor as its heavy. Use your rig but connect the hot side using the cpu pump to the big heat exchanger the compressor used as its way over sized for this job, and where the evaporator is that blows the cold air, connect your cold water bath to pump cold water through that and you would have a lighter, cheaper to run air con unit that wont get nearly as hot on the back? It may not be perfect but would surely have an air cooling effect? Also would it be safe to add anti-freeze to the water for a better heat exchange, would the pump be adversly effected by this? Just a thought I would be willing to have a go at with my old air con unit that really needs re-gassing but costs more than the unit cost lol
JohnnyX50 Absolutely that would work. The question is how many peltier units would you need to get the same BTUs as the original air conditioner and what would the power consumption be? These dinky little 5 amp units that I play with only have a delta (difference in temperature) of about 20-25 degrees and they would only cool a very small volume of water (maybe a couple cups of water a piece). Maybe you could try 2-3 of the 10 amp units together and see how that does with a gallon of liquid to cool a small room. You could experiment with anti-freeze mixtures to see if you can squeeze out some more performance.
LDSreliance Ok, update :) Thanks for your lovely reply :), here are the specs of my unit.Model B&Q WAP-237EB, Volts-240~50Hz, Power 950W, Current 4.2A, Cooling Capacity 2.3Kw (8000 BT/h) Refrigerant R-407C, Weight 30Kgs. Change of plan. Reverse the use of the heat exchangers, put the cold side through the exhaust exchanger as that fan is extremely forceful and should just create a gentle cooling of the air as it passes round the room. Put the hot side on the smaller exchanger whos fan has a low/med and high setting allowing the hot air to be pointed away from you and downward in a more controlled way. The thermostat relay could be used to power up the computer power supply for the peltier seeing as its a high load capable relay :) It would work similar to our local hospital who use a pipe network under a reservoir to cool the pipe liquid to 10-15C and use it in the air cons in the hospital keeping costs down. Any reduction in temperature by this method is still better than none at all by recirculating room air like a desk fan would :) :feeling inspired:
That is a great idea. I agree, you don't need ice cold air to be comfortable and cool in the summer. Air movement alone across your skin will drop the perceived temperature of the room by 10+ degrees F. So if you can even cool down the air traveling through the exchanger by another 5 degrees I think you would have a nice comfortable room. The only thing that this setup lacks that a normal air conditioner does is remove humidity from the air. But if you have significant air movement in the room that is not as necessary.
Nice....I am looking to build a chilled shiner chest for fishing and this is almost exactly what I had in mind except for using a serious heat sink and fan on the hot side. I hope to have the chilled water pass through a spray bar to assist in oxygenation as well.Would a large cpu type sink be enough.
The hot side heat sink is pretty serious although you could use a larger radiator or add another fan to get a push/pull configuration. I am sure you are going to be working with a much higher volume of water so you will want a more powerful peltier.
Thanks for your quick response. I ran across an interesting device when researching this. A thermal link or TCO that would cut the circuit when the sink reaches 91 degrees Celcius....less than a $1. www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/SDF%20DF091S/317-1127-ND/1014756 Just not sure how to connect. I assume you connect it to the negative lead and place it on or near the sink as close as possible to the peltier. I hate to add the expense of the radiator and another pump. With the low cost of the peltier I guess the sink and push/pull fan would be worth trying. If adding the radiator is required I assume it can be a closed system on the hot side but there would have to be a shut down system for safety sake....might boil the water and get a serious steam explosion. What do you think
The system I used on the hot side of my setup is a closed system designed for cooling a CPU on the highest performance computers (www.amazon.com/Corsair-Series-Performance-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B00A0HZMGA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408026198&sr=8-1&keywords=h60). Even running it over night the hot side of my unit never even got warm to the touch so I doubt it was even 80 degrees in the radiator. These things cool down processors that run at 80 to 100 degrees Celsius (176 to 212 F) and higher so they are overkill for these small peltiers. You could safely run a 10 amp peltier with this same setup. As for the thermal link, there are quite a few devices that you could use for this: thermistors, bimetallic strips, thermostats, etc. I am using a bimetallic strip on an attic fan that triggers the fans to come on when the attic temps reach 40 C. Works great. Just wire it in series with either the positive or negative wire (shouldn't matter which) and then put the thermal link inside the liquid.
This setup is a pretty awesome idea, but do you think this could be made on a much larger scale? Say, designed to pump a glyco based coolant around to cool a 13 cubic foot area?
BlueLlama Of course. The only drawback to this is the power consumption of the peltier device. At a certain size it becomes cheaper to use a traditional compressor based mechanical air conditioner like you have in your house. Peltiers use a lot of DC power, which either needs to be inefficiently converted from AC house power or expensively produced by solar or wind (expensive on a small scale of power generation I should say). 13 cubic feet might be pushing the limits a bit. Is this for a refrigerator?
In a sense. I'm designing a fermentation chamber that uses a mini fridge as It's primary coolant, but it isn't powerful enough drop to the temps Im aiming for. So any peltier setup would be a supplament to any cooling going on. Shooting for temps around 35-40
Mini fridges don't have the greatest insulation. You might try starting out with a small chest freezer as they are much better insulated. Check this out as a starter: newlifeonahomestead.com/convert-chest-freezer-to-fridge-solar/
Great video! I just bought my 1st Peltier Module, and was looking for something to do with it. You've helped a lot! I'm not sure if you know this about yourself, but you make a "tick" sound with your mouth about every 2 sentences (right before you start to say something) hahaha. It's just constructive criticism, because I myself used to do this also, until my wife told me how irritating it was. I've since lowered my mouth ticks to once a paragraph. Still a great video, keep it coming with less "ticks" bro. ;o)
houston we have a problem I'm in Texas, too. So you want the water to be cooler than the ambient temperature inside your house? What size aquarium is it? What kind of fish?
My best guess is that it will drop the temperature about 2-4 degrees in the tank below what it would normally be. But it would be interesting to find out! Keep me posted.
Thank you so much for the video. I am new to this field of knowledge and just curious, generally how hot does the other side of the peltier gets and whats the temperature of the air that the fan is pumping out?
The hot side gets very hot, but the heat sink spreads out that heat so usually it is not too hot to touch. The bigger and more efficient the heat sink the cooler the hot side will be and, by extension, the colder the cold side will be.
This is the corvair liquid cooler of which I speak. I can see both sets of wires and plugs in your video, I just cannot determine which 2 wires from the 3 wires harness I need to connect......
I took a look at mine and I know what you are talking about. One of the wires on the end is not needed. So put the wire in the middle as the positive wire and then try connecting both of the other wires one at a time and see if the pump turns on. That is the only way to know, really.
Been thinking about using this to cool water then pass it threw a radiator with a fan to cool my boat cabin down. right now I'm just using ice over a sealed copper tube water system using the same 12 volt pump u have. It works pretty good but ice can't last forever. Wonder if this would give me longer run time. It don't take much as long as the water is colder than the air temp is it will have a cooling affect
+djnemesis82pluss1877 There is no doubt it will last longer but it probably won't be as cold as ice. You could still use the ice and let the peltier keep it colder longer and prevent it from melting fast. That might be the best of both worlds.
Hello, great video. I am Brazilian and I have trouble understanding what you say. You could write the list of needed materials? If possible with the links ... Thank you!
Ayrton Albuquerque Sorry about that. Here is a list of the materials I used. These were ordered from a US company so I am not sure where you can get them in Brazil: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0046ECL6W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Z6ZR5O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009X6ADCM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A0HZMGA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DHC2GJ6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
im working on a device like this using 2 peltier devices, cold side is a water block with gravity flow of water using 5 gallon buckets. hot side is a heat sink with 2 candles under. I am waiting for a couple parts still. initial testing with 1 peltier 1 candle I was able to generate 2 volts. I just dribbled water over the heat sink on top as I didnt have a water block yet.
So you are more interested in using this type of setup to generate electricity, not generate cold. That is cool. How is that different from a typical thermoelectric generator that runs off of a wood stove or other heat source?
Have you tried putting 2 peltier units together? The more power you put through the unit the less affective it works so 2 x lower power should be better?
Yes, but I didn't have a way to lower the power at the time. So it was just two peltiers sandwiched and running max power. It was only slightly better performing. I may revisit this again since I now have some better equipment for testing these things.
Helpful video, my room gets hot so I'm looking around to see if there's something I can make, or if I should get an actual air conditioner. I am curious though, if you had the cool side facing the radiator and fan, and the hot side facing the water pump, would this be a good way to put out cold air?
Hey, thank you so much for sharing your project and helping us by giving us an idea about how to make it. I am using same system, same components (maybe a different fan) but it works well. I am trying to cool 2L down, I can cool it 4°C easy but there comes a moment where the temperature doesn't change. I am using a second heat dissipater on the cool side, just above the water block. Any idea or suggestions?
It all comes down to insulation. There is only so much heat that these devices can transfer. The key is to make it as efficient as possible by limiting any sources of losing heat or cold. Wrap insulation around whatever container you are using for the liquid. Wrap the tubes in insulation. Keep the whole apparatus out of direct sunlight or put it somewhere cool, if possible.
Great video, Would it be possible to use two of the radiator set ups on each side of the peltier unit so that you have cold coolant running through one radiator so that the fan then blows cool air? or is it best to just use an air to air for air cooling? Thank you for your time and please let me know
Jess Hull I am not really understanding what you are asking but in my experience this liquid cooling is more effective at cooling down air than a simple heat sink. I am sure that is because of the radiator design of these cpu coolers that I use. Air moving through the fins of the radiators transfers heat/cold much better than air coming in contact with a heat sink with limited surface area.
I can’t get mine below 63 degree F. Does the length of hose or amount of water matter? I also bought a slightly different water cooled fan but it’s basically the same. Any help would be appreciated.
Is there a way to add a thermostat to run this through a radiator to make an air conditioner out of it? I found information on making a heater using water from a water heater and a car radiator with a fan now all I need is to know how to put a thermostat to something like this to make an air conditioner out of it. I want to build a van to live in and trying to find ways to do things without having to spend a fortune which God knows so don’t have. Please any help will be greatly appreciated
awesome, I wasnt sure if I could use one, say 12v 120 watt, supply if I could find one, or not. Im still a bit lost with the amps and watts, and what is consumed or what would be too much. On the bright side, my unit just needs new power supply. It is dead, I checked. But as you said, I think Ill just get 2 supplies and make my life simpler lol. I had used a TEC1-12706 12v 60W and a single 60w 12v 5A supply.
You can't provide too much power. All modern electronic devices will only draw the current they need (that I know of). Certainly a peltier and fan and pump will all work fine. I am sure you could find a 120W supply but it will be a lot easier for you to find 2 60W supplies (and cheaper).
Just to be clear ... you say you used 4 quarts of water and the temp was down to 50F in one hour -- what was the temp of the water at the beginning of that one hour? Knowing the amount of water and the delta temperature is about all you need to calculate actual cooling power.
Sir i have a question,have you ever built a peltier air conditioning unit using heat pump?Because i read some books regarding peltier air conditioning that when you use heat pumps inplace with a compressor you have a better efficiency is that true sir? thanks
What do you call that small blue box-shaped that you attached on the cold side of the peltier, where the water circulates? Thanks for response :) For our thesis :)
+John Dy That is a cold plate or water block. It is a piece of aluminum with channels inside that water passes through to be cooled down. Looks like a maze inside if you were to cut it open. Water comes in one side and then zigs and zags around until it comes out the other side much colder kind of like a radiator on a car.
Hi, thanks very much for the video it was really helpful! How did you manage to connect the 4-pin pushpin adaptor for the heatsink to the power adapter?
You have to cut off the 4 pin connector and use the positive and negative wires (the other 2 are related to speed and are not needed) to connect to the power adapter. There will be a little arrow on the 4 pin connector that shows you which wire is the negative wire and it is always the farthest wire to one side. If you cut off the connector and forget which wire is which, just use trial and error.
lordbryson The compressor on an air conditioner or refrigerator does require high amps to start up but after 5-20 seconds it will drop off a LOT and run steady at low current. For example, my mini fridge needed 2000+ watts to start up but only about 100 watts to stay running.
In this video I was cooling about 8 cups of water if I remember correctly. To cool 2 gallons you will need a much more powerful peltier. I would start with a 20-25 amp unit and go from there.
+sam4malaysia I disagree. You want the hot side to be as cold as possible so that the cold side can get even colder. That is how delta temp differential works. For lower power peltiers I am sure you are right you only need a copper heat sink or efficient aluminum one with heat pipes. But for 10a+ models I think liquid cooling does the best job of keeping it as cool as possible.
Could you put cooling liquid in this? Anti-freeze would be useful. Do you control the temperature by the power going to he cell? What happens if you don't cool the hot side, would it damage the cell?
You could use anti-freeze or any liquid, I suppose. You could control the temperature by the voltage but it would not be linear and would require a lot of trial and error. Yes, if you do not cool the hot side it will burn itself out in seconds.
Hi ! We'd like to build a device able to cool down 75ml of water (from 20°C to 7-8°C) in less than a minute (30sec would be awesome). We thought of many things and the 2 main are : 1) we create a maze of copper such as what is used inside the thermoblock of a Nespresso Machine (or any coffer maker huh). We apply 1 to 3 Peltier on it with thermal paste and everything and we pump it really slow. Slow enough for it to cool and fast enough not to freeze. The inside diameter of the copper tube is 2mm. 2) your system. We create a loop and the water quickly goes in and out of the aluminium block until it reaches the good temperature. Do you have any tips ? Such as if you think it is possible? And how eheh? Btw great video, some things are clearer now. PS : if we try your system with our goals, should we order an aluminium block of 40mm*40mm, 80*40 or 120*40 ?
+Charles Mahé Desportes 75ml is only a tiny amount of liquid. I think you could easily do that with either method. I only have experience with my method, though. The only challenge with getting my method to work with such a small amount of liquid is the diameter of the tubing. You would have to find a small liquid reservoir and use smaller tubing somehow so that you could suck up the liquid from the reservoir more slowly. The setup I have would empty 75ml in seconds and cavitate the water pump.
I've bought the same CPU pad, water pump etc, but can you please tell me the size tubing you used? I am trying to make a homebrew AC unit for my tiny bedroom. Basically I am having 2 peltiers in parallel, both hot and cold facing the same side. Then I am using a total of four of the blue contact water pads. It will have 2 closed circuit loops. One side, water is pumped through both cold sides of the peltier, then through a tube to a radiator and a fan on the inside of my room, and back to the reservoir again. The other side will pump another water circuit over both hot sides, to another fan/radiator on the outside, and back to the hot side reservoir. I don't expect it to cool my whole room, just remove a bit of heat created by the server.
Dan Coulson That sounds cool. Please tell me how it ends up working! The tubing I purchased is here: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0046ECL6W?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
LDSreliance Cheers for the link. I can't order it from here unless I get about $30 worth (UK £15~), but at least I know the diameter now. Thank you for your help. Incase anyone else is wondering, it's 5/16 by 7/16 Inch tubing. I really hope this works now, I've spent about £60 (US$90~) on al of the bits and bobs. Even a 500W PC PSU for stable 12v supply for two peltiers at the same time. Thermal paste, Mini radiators, the works... I will need to assemble two housings, one for the cool side radiator and fan, with a drip pan to collect condensation and direct it outside. The hot side case, must be weather proof, as I intend to use the PSU outside to reduce waste heat from pumps etc going back into the room I'm trying to cool. Even if it does not work, I will let you know how it goes, and include a video. Cheers for the inspiration :) If the small 120mm fan is not enough on the cool side, I will replace the cold side radiator with a coil of copper wire, and loop it infront of my large 18 inch floor fan. I could then have both smaller fans on the outside to compensate for the larger inside fan. Thinking about it, it would probably be better to have two fans on the outer unit to compensate for waste heat generated by other components. In any system like this, the total net always equals more heat.
Dan Coulson I agree. Everyone always tells me to overdo the hot side cooling in comparison to the heat sinks and fans on the cold side. It can only help.
hey nice project cn u give me the ratio of time to temperature graph or ratio or how much time it takes to reach a specific temperature hot or cold thanks
I'm currently designing a cheap sustainable fridge for Cameroon and I'm just wondering whether this method could be used?? also, how cheap are these utensils?? and does in need much power to run?? thanks, ollie
+Ollie Bamsey The peltiers themselves can be gotten for $5 or less per piece. But the cooling devices are not cheap ($65-70 each). You could air cool them with a properly designed cold plate on the inside (cold side) and then a high surface area heat sink and fan setup for the outside (hot side). I bet a prototype could be built for under $100 including insulation and a case/box with hardware, excluding tool up costs. In bulk I bet you could manufacture something like that for a cost of $50-60 each. I'm not a product engineer but that would be my best guess. It does need a good amount of power to run, so that is the problem. To power one of the 5 amp peltiers around the clock (using a thermostat to modulate) it would require about 1 kWh per day to run. That is not much if there is an electrical power grid but if you had to run this off of solar it would be expensive.
Great info, just a 1 question though... If I wanted this device to switch on and off at set temperatures, or just simply run at a set temperature, how would I achieve this?
You can wire in a thermostat very easily. There are some good cheap ones with remote probes that you could just drop in the water and set it to a certain temp. It will cut power when it reaches that temp and turn it back on when it warms back up a bit.
I have almost the exact same setup but with a heatsink and fan (CPU) instead of water cooling the hot side, however I'm unable to get any cooling effect at all with a 4 litre tank (~1 gal), I can feel the blue cooling block getting somewhat colder through. I figured the pump may heat the water but your video seems to disprove that theory. Any ideas?
What peltier unit are you using? How much power is it consuming (i.e. can you measure it?)? Did you use thermal paste between the peltier and the heatsinks? Is there a tight fit (i.e. did you clamp it together firmly so that the peltier has good even contact with the heat sinks)? Other than that I would try a different peltier. Those things are very cheaply made and I have gotten several duds that just didn't draw as much power as they were supposed to or just didn't work at all.
Thanks for responding. I am referring to the 3 wire plug from the coolant recirc pump on the cpu cooler. I got the radiator fan, just can't seem to hear the coolant pump...
Hello. I'm trying to build this water cooler, but I cannot seem to figure out which wire is which for the cpu fan/cooler pump. I have the fan working, but can't tell if the coolant pump is coming on or not. Any suggestions?
If you put your ear up to the pump you should be able to hear a slight vibrating/buzzing sound from it if it is running. As far as the wires, there are 4 wires that are side by side in a flat ribbon configuration. The one on the far side is the negative wire (will be marked by a ^ or arrow if you still have the connector on there - if you already cut it off then you will have to do trial and error). The wire next to the negative wire is always the positive wire. The other 2 wires are not needed.
Great video! One question; I'm trying to assemble a similar setup using a Corsair Hydro Series H60 CPU cooler but I'm unsure of how to actually power it with a similar laptop power source due to the pre-assembled connections at the end of the Corsair cooler. Can you explain in a little more detail how you wired them up? Any additional comments are greatly appreciated!
If you don't want to hack the ends off the Corsair cooler, you can buy some cheap adapters online and then hack the ends off of those. There are all kinds of adapters for PC building that convert a connector to another style connector.
@@LDSreliance thanks! I'm actually planning on connecting them to a power source similar to the one you used in your video so I was trying to get the specifics of the wiring setup. I'm trying to cool the water in a market fan that I bought which mists water out the front. My theory is that cooling the misting water beyond the ambient temp will create a greater cooling effect. Or so I hope!
I would say that should work. Like I showed in the video, you do have to chop off the end of the laptop power adapter cable and connect/solder it to the ends of the cable that goes to the Corsair cooler. If you don't want to permanently modify the Corsair cooler, I don't blame you but you will need to purchase an adapter for the it and then modify the adapter.
sir went thru your videos . I have few doughts to be clarified. sir can i know the size of the peltier which is used in this video , what is latest of it version of this. i have plan to use this for converition of air to water will it workout. if we work on this will we be able achive minim targeted amout of water from the atmosphere ?? . Pls advice me asap thsnking you
I was wondering if you could recommend a battery that would run 2 peltiers and a cpu, I'm working on a little project and my 12v motorcycle battery isn't cutting it, thank ya much sir!
+knockitofff TEC coolers/heaters are not as efficient as compressor based systems but they have a few advantages that may interest some people. You could condition a large volume of air with this type of setup but it would take a much more powerful TEC and would use a significant amount of energy to accomplish.
so i have a question for ya, assuming that you did a liquid/liquid cooled peltier (ie, liquid on the cold, liquid on the hot), how cold do you think the cold side radiator would get? how hot would the hot side get? assuming the TEC1-12706 (ie ~100w), i'm looking to blow air across the cold side radiator through a box (in a vented application, NOT SEALED) and was looking to obtain lower tempteratures, i'm not looking for sub-zero stuff, maybe a 5 degree air temp change. i'm exchanging the air in this box multiple times a minute already to compensate for the heat already generated inside. currently, the ambient air being pulled into the box is around 66-70F, but even though I am cycling it multiple (3-5) times a minute, the air temperature still rises to almost 85 degrees F. optimally i'd like to get it down to 80 or less. I would go with a refrigerant setup, but due to the size and weight, that is nearly impossible unless i found a very very small unit or build my own. I think I would only need maybe 1000 to 3000 btu's. have you tried just free-airing both sides of the heat exchangers to see how hot/cold the air is coming off of each?
+Munky332 I think you need to watch my video series on my diy mini fridge. It is an enclosed, insulated box but I think it answers 90% of your questions. The first video is here and there are 5 parts in the series: ruclips.net/video/TjX-5zjhPlQ/видео.html If you have questions after that let me know.
+LDSreliance thanks. Yea I've been watching them. The biggest issue is I vent the box so the cool air probably won't stay. I'm also looking into vortex tubes but they use compressed air and it looks like they require alot of it. So we'll see.
@LDSreliance thank you so much. I was originally planning on making an incubator for my leopard gecko eggs. Coz I need a cool incubator to produce female. But then I thought maybe I can use it as well if we decide to have axolotls
You could use it for heating or cooling but it may be a bit hard to control without rigging up some sort of voltage regulator to moderate how much heating and cooling it will produce.
@LDSreliance I was planning on putting a thermostat like what I placed in my reptiles' tank for their heat mats. It will automatically turn on or off if it reaches a particular temperature. Like what I placed here ruclips.net/video/zUMySoKWcQ0/видео.html
Can you provide the link on Amazon or whatever site you purchased the blue block that has the two hose tubes for the water exchange on the cool side of the Peltier module? And what is that blue block "thingy" called?
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DHC2GJ6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Looks like they have an incorrect picture on there. This was the item I purchased (blue water block) in my order history.
Hey thanks for the great video. I was wondering do you know if its more efficient to use a peltier than a condenser in an AC and how much more efficient it is? Hopefully I am making sense here
No, it is not more efficient than a condenser style air conditioner/refrigerator. But it does have advantages. They last longer, require no maintenance, are more rugged and tolerant of abuse (you can't lay a fridge on its side, for example), and take up a lot less space.
i was thinking of away to use this in a pc. maybe on the air intake side of a radiator and have fans pulling the air through, or on the more meatier metal sides of the radiator. wut are ur thoughts? btw i wanna o.c. the crap out of my fx8350 XD got to the big 5.0 ghz now i wanna push for 5.5ghz!!!!!
rustypro98 You could chill the liquid in a front-mount radiator on your pc case. That way the air passing through the radiator and into the pc case would be cooler by about 20-30 degrees F. Lots of people use peltiers to directly cool down their cpu. Go to Tomshardware.com for more info on that.
what if you pump that 44 degree water through an evaporator or transmission cooler with a 12 volt fan blowing across it ? Maybe it would act like a mini air conditioner ?
Andrew B I am in the process of designing a system to do just that in my 79 C10. my ac doesn't work anyways, so I figure, 3x150w peltier+ water blocks and a pump with antifreeze in the system and I figure I could pump cold water through the evaporator and make a make shift ac
mineral oil (baby oil) try that instead of anti freeze sounds crazy im sure but ive used mineral oil in my days of dissipating heat from electronics back in the 90s and i fugure so why not for cooling i just havnt tried it yet but i will soon enough
non-conductive is the primary reason and still flows well when its cold but also non-corrosive with it being oil based metals would have not problem with it. Antifreeze would work no doubt about that but its water based and not a good idea if there electronics close by should you ever develop a leak from and aged line could cost an enthusiast alot of money in electronics being fried from a water leak i cringe at the thought of that. Ive been a couple of weeks now thinking which way to go with a 10 cubic foot fridge that the compressor failed ever so conveniently after the full warranty went out and though the part is free being under warranty for 5 years i would have to pay the labor ( close to the cost of the fridge) to fix it. I dont think so.
+Gairik Biswas Yes, you can. It will not feel very cool unless you are using a strong peltier unit, though. Much stronger than the one I used in this video. I would say at least 15 amps.
Nice build. I'm going to try something similar. I want to cool 1 litre of drinking water from 25-30 degrees celsius to 15-20 degrees celsius in around 20-25 minutes. Ambeint temperature would be around 35 degrees. If i build a rig just like yours, will it get the job done? Or would i need a more powerful peltier? Is there any other way to get better cooling?
Will you be making a video with the radiator in the water and adding salt to the water? If you have a way I can donate to you I would just to see this :) other than that great channel man, subscribed.
7EvilAdams Haha no need for donations. Just keep watching the videos! I am about to go on vacation but I will add this to my board of ideas for new videos and try to work on that when I get back in a couple of weeks.
Hey i m also working on this project..i put heat sink on hot side ...and may i put another heat sink on cool side.?????.because our module getting cool but it did not blow the air inside the thermocol...please reply me as soon as possible...
Yes you can put another heat sink/fan combo on the cold side instead of using liquid. Check out my other video for more information: ruclips.net/video/Ipt8xqKbCSw/видео.html
it will take a bit if time to complete this project because even the heat exchange radiador is custom built from scratch and this air conditioner will be built in a larger scale.. (4-8) peltier units and even more) when this project will be finaly built i will P.M you with the video :D
ToxiC BikEr Sounds great. I would be interested. I designed something like this once upon a time but never built it. So I am curious how yours will turn out.
Connect it to the power source for 3-4 seconds (no longer than this) and then touch each side with your fingers. One side will be warm and one side cool. That is the only way I know to test it.
Thank you for your response, I've spent hours on the net trying to figure this out. I'm replacing a TEG for a friend in a wood stove fan, so may be I can ask one more Q, which side goes to the stove side, or does it matter? Thank you, all the best to you and your, Billy
I am not an expert on TEG's but I don't think it matters which side you heat up. All it needs is a difference in temperature between the two sides. I think whichever side you heat up ends up determining the polarity but I don't think it matters which side you attach to the heat source.
Can you try adding salt to the cool side water to see how much colder it will get? My guess is that if you used anti-freeze it would drop the temp by a good 10-15 degrees.
An excellent suggestion. I will try this sometime with my own setup. However, this setup that I am showing in the video is for one of my subscribers and he will be using his own liquid on the cold side because that is why he wanted the setup. He wants to keep some of his aquarium fluids cool.
LDSreliance sweet, I just subscribed so I'll be coming up with a list of tests for you to do so I can save all that $ on modules, heat exchangers, etc. And the time I'll save. Can't wait to tell the kids they have their dad back and I can come out of the shed now! You might want to start researching stirling cryocoolers and low temperature rankine cycles. You're gonna be busy! Great videos BTW!
Thanks for the feedback and subscription! You know the other subscriber paid for all the components but my time was free :) I know you are joking but if you want me to try something out I am happy to do so as long as I have the parts laying around.
Out of curiosity, I believe you understand the difference between TEC and TEG... Is is possible to build a TEC sticking to a TEG as power source to cool something? Instead of having the TEC's heat-waste basically 'wasted'...
The hot side of the TEC would not get hot enough to generate more than a trickle of power. Most purpose built TEG's need 240-340 degrees Celsius to generate meaningful power.
@@LDSreliance Ahhh... How about 9 TEC in 3x3 (or 16 TEC in 4x4 or 25 in 5x5 etc) and using heatsink to pull the heat to 1 TEG? Is it still not enough? I'm thinking instead of the TEC's heat part basically wasted... No matter how small, is it really meaningful enough for 16 or 25 TEC to allow 1 TEG to reduce like maybe 1 or 2 TEC's consumption?
I would not drink it. None of the materials are rated to be food safe. The plastic may contain BPA or something and then the pump may be harmful somehow, too. And the aluminum heat sink is powdercoated or something. Just not worth the chance.
How well do you think this would work if I added this setup to my evaporative cooler? I would think it would make a huge difference and would cool down my room but do you think it would too?
7EvilAdams I don't know about that one. At first it sounds like it would but the cooling from your evaporative cooler comes from actual evaporation, not the temperature of the water. At least that is my understanding. You could certainly try it out and see. I live in Texas and evaporative coolers don't work here because of the humidity so I can't test that out.
LDSreliance I think the temperature of the water does affect it as my evaporative cooler came with ice packs to use in the water but I will buy the parts needed for this and test it myself :) could you look over the parts I am thinking of buying for this build? I would have used the exact same parts from your build but I live in the UK. Thanks for your help Waterblock - www.ebay.co.uk/itm/North-South-Bridge-Copper-Base-Water-Cooling-Block-Waterblock-for-7-10mm-Tube-/281731145739?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item41987c200b Other Parts - www.amazon.co.uk/gp/registry/wishlist/ZFZ31HZXTMQN/ref=cm_wl_rlist_go_o?
Everything looks good except maybe that north/south bridge water block. That is different from a CPU block and may not be able to latch down with the Corsair H60 water block. If you use that you may need to rig up a different adapter to use for sandwiching it all together.
Hi there, I just purchased parts to do this myself. Just played around a little bit, but I noticed one problem if you could possibly help me out. For the pump they sent the wrong plug in so wasn't able to try with the water. However I hooked up everything but I didn't get any fan movement for the radiator or small cooling fan itself.... My question is, do I need the pump working to get the movement from the fans or should electricity still move the fans?
this is what they sent me... www.smartclima.com/thermoelectric-cooling-modular-part-kit.htm the fountain pump had EU prongs instead of American prongs, so need to go to local hardware store to purchase a new pump.
Hmmm. It looks like all those devices connect to the power supply in the upper left of that picture. So the pump should not have anything to do with the other devices.
my thpughts exactly.... however i can not get the fans to work and im not exactly sure why. the module works for heat and cold, but the fans just dont turn on..
Can you try using a different power source? Do you have a car battery laying around or worst case connect 8 AA batteries in series (end to end)? That way you could at least test that the fan works. If it does then it is either a wiring mistake or a bad power supply.
Does the size of the waterblock matter? Because the component I have is 40mmx120mmx12mm rather than 40mmx40mmx12mm like the one you've used, and I was wondering if it would function the same.
The internal fin design will matter as much as the size. I don't know which would be better... larger or smaller. In theory, the larger one would give the water more time to cool down as it travels through. However, also in theory the smaller block would get colder than the bigger block because it doesn't have as much mass to cool down and so the water may get colder, too. Would be an interesting experiment to test!
The peltier module will work with less current but it will not get as cold. Some people say it is more efficient at lower current than its rated current but I have never tested it. It will for sure not get as cold.
So If i wanted to build a cabinet cooling system with multiple unit's would I 1.Be abe to use water cooled for the hot-side to lower overall temp and then use air over the cool side to spread around? 2.Would I be able to drop from between 35-40 C down to 25-30 C in a space that is 1120mm x 500mm x 1500mm?(space may be increasing) It is kinda important and it's been a struggle to get information.
Yes to both questions. It will work. The only question is how much power you need to make it work. Peltiers are not efficient so be prepared to supply a lot of watts compared to a normal cooling system.
I put the heat sink and fan to the hot side of my peltier , however i noticed that the fan is not sucking the air from the heatsink but throwing the air towards the heatsink. I am confused here. After this arrangement my peltier module stopped working. It wont cool down now. Any help on this?
Aman Khan The fan is just a bonus, the heat sink is doing most of the work. I would suspect that there may not have been good contact between the heat sink and hot side of the peltier. Did you use thermal paste? What did you use to attach the heat sink to the peltier if there was nothing on the cool side to sandwich it?
Hey did this setup worked for you? The radiator setup didn't burnt the peltier module? I've been thinking of doing this for a DIY aquarium chiller since commercial chillers are very expensive.
It worked well. This project was for an aquarium dosing application for one of my subscribers. One of the peltiers died so we had to replace it but other than that it seems to have been great.
What water block did you use? since aluminum will make the water toxic. and did the temp get lower than 20°C? because I need the water to be lower or equal to that.
Marc Wivenson Co You can get the water to colder than that with better insulation and a more powerful peltier. The water block was aluminum so you would have to find something that was fish friendly, especially if you are using salt water which would corrode most metals.
Are there any other mediums than aluminum and copper? I think there isn't have you tried doing it like having the tube from the aquarium run to the cold water on the container? will that be any good?
Marc Wivenson Co There isn't a thermally conductive material that they make water blocks or heat exchangers that can handle salt water and live fish. You could try cooling water and then running it through an RO filter to get out any metals or maybe run it through a refugium or some mangrove to filter it. Sorry I don't know what else to tell you.
The main rating for a peltier unit is the difference (delta) between the hot and cold sides. In this video I used a 12705 which is a 5 amp unit and has a delta of 70-79 degrees celsius (depending on how much voltage you use - 16v vs 17.2 respectively). The hot side is rated at 27 and 50 degrees celsius and again depends on the voltage you use (16 vs 17.2). So if you put those 2 ratings together, the coldest you could possibly get at 17.2v on the cold side is -29 degrees Celsius. Keep in mind that is just the surface of the peltier, not counting any heat sink or anything else.
You are going to lose some energy in the transfer. The peltier can only shed so much heat energy from the cold side of the plate so it can either make a big temperature difference on a very small item (like a drop of water instantly freezing) or a small temperature difference in a larger item (like a gallon of water dropping in temperature by 5-10 degrees). Does that make sense?
Well if you need more cooling power they do make more powerful peltiers. I have seen some all the way up to several hundred watts. You could also use multiple setups. What are you trying to cool down?
Works great. The condensation happens on the tubes but it doesn't drip off like I thought it would. Ideally you would want to wrap the tubes in some sort of insulation to prevent that and to prevent heat loss but the insulation I bought and showed in the video was not working really well.
well all was going great, until a loud pop and then no more power. I just saw you have two laptop power supplies, and I tried using just one. Are two required? or is there a larger one that could power both that you know of?
It depends on the power supply. The TEC that was used in this video requires 5A @ 12V (60W) so if you tried to put that and some fans on a 5A power supply it probably overheated. I would recommend one power supply per TEC because usually those cheap laptop/monitor power supplies are about 65W each or so. Then you will need one for the fans and pump, too.
Is it possible to cool a gallon of water with the same setup to perhaps 60 degrees in an environment of 75 degrees and water temperature of 72 degrees.
+dudeu4real Yes, it all comes down to how well you can insulate the water. It may take several hours to get down to temp but it will stay there if the reservoir is well insulated.
No, you can't add heat to generate cold. You can take away heat from the hot side to make cold. And that is what this device does. It dissipates heat from the hot side so that the cold side gets colder. Although it isn't exactly what you asked for you can add heat to generate electricity. That is called a thermoelectric generator or TEG.
Thanks for that experiment!, i did some research on a liquid/liquid application of peltier on YT and i finally arrived here! :)
Jason thank you very much for building this for me. It was great working with you (through emails) and I am very excited to receive the devices and get them connected to my Tank!
My pleasure. Should be a good video for people to see another way to build this type of device and the fairly dramatic results.
I know this video is kind of old, but I'd like to share my idea anyway. you will need a slightly bigger reservoir with 4 exits, 4 peltier modules (they are 40x40mm in size), one waterblock 40x160mm (that will be attached to hot side of modules), one heatsink 40x160 or close to that, that will be cooled by peltier modules while submerged in a reservoir. you'll obviously will need to use something instead of water. either mineral oil or anti-freeze liquid. to power up all of the 4 modules I suggest using a separate PSU. there's a trick how to run it without a motherboeard. the concept behind this crazy setup is that 4 of the modules will dramatically decrease the liquid temperature inside the reservoir. 2 exits will guid the liquid to a CPU waterblock and cool it down. another two will lead the liquid to a waterblock attached to a hot side of modules. sounds stupid, but I think it is worthy of a shot.
Excellent setup. I am currently doing a research about anti-icing surface. I think your setup is much cheaper than buying an instrument.
Jeremy Cheung Very cool. I'm not sure what instrument you would need for that but this setup is less than $150 total. It needs some refinement but the concept is sound.
Well, I am a graduate student working at a college lab. There is a big machine using silicone oil as a coolant. What I am wondering is that could we control the temperature? Also minus 20 degree is low enough for my research, is there any low power peltier somewhere?
Yes, the one I am using in the video is a 5 amp unit (@12v so 60 watts). There might be smaller out there. How much of a volume of liquid is there to cool down?
Peltiers are awesome, I have a similar setup but was using the water cooling loop for the hot side since water is a better thermal conductor, cooling a heat sink with a fan blowing across it. The heat sink would cool enough to frost up but would warm up rather quickly once ambient air was drawn across it. Hopefully we see more efficient peltier devices in the near future with the advancements of nanotubes and graphene technology.
That would be nice. Right now they are power hogs but still useful in some cases. I just ordered parts to get to work on a new liquid cooled refrigerator using a peltier so stay tuned for that! Thanks for watching!
Awesome I'll be sure to stay tuned
Probably I will make a video of my system, wanted to build one years back but never got to it. It's great system combining with other tech.
That would be awesome. I would love to see it.
That looks like a better way to do it. I was practically searching for this.
Just connect some Solar panels rather than adapter and you have free AC!
Excuse me, the solar panels are powerfull enough to keep running this system?
@@diegochinchilla3209 yes. It depends on how you configure them.
Zen Innovations I’ve been trying to get knowledge to make this, but doing it with solar panels, makes the building price rise up like hell, could you help and tell me how to make it? I will be really really thankful with you!!!
@@diegochinchilla3209 stay on my channel, I will eventually make it.
Zen Innovations wow it would be really really awesome, hope it will be like you say
extremely pleased to see this. no question small spaces like micro-campers and related would benefit. also would like to see a heat "tablet" with coupled-Peltier chips, heat sinks, on-off switch, thermostat controller, 12 batter hookup, 110 converter, plugin .. for hot-cold environs
would love a fabricated version for tinyhomesonwheels.com
That would be pretty cool. You could cascade 2 peltiers together to get colder temps (low volume) and rig up a way to reverse the polarity so that you could switch from hot to cold. I've done the thermostat thing before and it works okay, although heat soak causes problems. A better idea would be instead of shutting off power altogether like a thermostat does you could limit the current to a small amount to keep the cold side slightly cool and not feed heat back into the system.
Email me at ldsreliance@gmail.com and we will talk.
The cooling coefficient of performance for thermoelectric devices is less than 1. That is, for a watt of energy in, it moves less than a watt of heat. It's really very inefficient unless you have a good use for the waste heat generated.
You would get much better results moving your projects to compressor-based heat pumps rather than thermoelectric. You can even skirt around some of the limitations of EPA-required refrigerant certification by choosing propane or butane as your refrigerant. They perform at about the same level as R-12 (original Freon) did, and those chemicals are gaining rapid acceptance in Europe as the depth of experience puts the explosion fear to rest.
And where can we buy this device? Do you have a model number?
I think it's the same system used in a mini fridge.
What if he constructed a swamp cooler with this device with in it. Like a super powered ac?
Very cool!! ;-)
A suggestion: By use of a thermally isolated container for cool water you can improve the efficiency.
David Casas Absolutely. I am sure I could have squeezed another 5 degrees out of this experiment easily with some insulation and a thermos or something to keep the liquid in. I just wanted something that you could see into for video purposes.
LDSreliance Yes, the heat capacity of water helps because tends to change its temperature slower than air.
Yep, that is why I am doing liquid cooling peltier experiments now instead of using air as the transfer medium.
I'm really curious about this: Say you take a 10" x 10" x 10" waterproof, plexiglass box with a removable lid. You install the peltier device onto one side of it so that the heatsink is located on the interior of the box and is submerged in water when the box/reservoir is filled with fluid. You could do this by getting a heatsink that is a few inches or so wider and taller than the peltier device and cooling block, followed by cutting a square hole in the plexiglass (big enough only for the actual peltier device and cooling block to fit into) and mounting/sealing the heatsink from the inside. This would allow the bottom edges of the heatsink to properly seal against the plexiglass (to waterproof it) while leaving enough surface area exposed to attach the peltier device to the heatsink from this newly cut, exterior "window." This way the actual peltier device can be correctly installed to the bottom of the heatsink (as well as the cooling block) which would again, technically locate them on the exterior of the plexiglass box. Now, do you think if you installed a pump to circulate the reservoir fluid up through a tube and out of the top of the plexiglass/reservoir box, through the cooling block, and back into the same reservoir (that the heatsink is installed in) would work? Would the cooling effect of the peltier device outweigh the expelled heat of its own heatsink and cool the water, or would the heat overtake the cooling ability of the peltier and warm the fluid (water) instead? I would imagine that the system could be battling itself, in a sense. Or maybe the heat will slowly dissipate and the cooling effect would take over? How would alcohol perform in place of the water? Do you have any input? I would really, really, appreciate any information that you have to offer here.
It all depends on how efficiently you can shed heat on the hot side. That is where you make all the difference and where you should put your efforts and money. CPU water coolers designed for computers work great for this. The lower you can get the hot side temperatures, the colder the cold side temperatures will get. That is how a temperature delta works.
@@LDSreliance Awesome! That cleared up a ton of confusion and answered a handful of questions that I had in my head about it.Thank you!
You are welcome. Thanks for watching!
I am working on a Project similar to this in the hopes of building a Freezer with peltier using 80mm Radiator on the cool side and 240mm on the hot side. Also will be using a 3 X 9amp Peltier Units Will post how is goes...
I am so glad I came across your videos do you think it would work well enough to keep the water cool well it is running through a personal cooling vest?
That would be a great use for this but the only problem is you would need battery power if you want to be mobile. And with the huge amount of energy that these peltier chips use, you would need a lot of very heavy batteries to use it for a meaningful amount of time.
@@LDSreliance Thank you that answers my question I wanted to use a motorcycle battery on an off-road quad bike Is there anything you could think of that I could rig up for staying cool on a quad bike?
Only one I know of is by Sony and is about $120 USD (rough translation from Yen on this site: pur.store.sony.jp/lifestyle/products/reonpocket/RNP-1A_purchase/) Hopefully in the next decade battery tech will become cheaper and a lot more efficient and we can all have portable air conditioners.
Thanks for the sub!
Could you please post links to where you purchased your components? I am interested in building a similar set up. Specifically the submersible water pump, the peltier, and the 12 volt power supplies. Thank you.
I get most of my stuff like that from Amazon because every once in a while I get a really shoddy product and they are great about returns. I also get free 2 day shipping with Amazon Prime.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Z6ZR5O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EJ9WBPU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009X6ADCM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Very neat just ordered stuff from your kit site!! I wonder if windshield fluid or a different liquid could cool even more because it has a freezing temperature lower than water or would it ruin the motors do you think?
Coolant is probably ok since it is designed to be friendly to the materials in your car's cooling system. But alcohol and other liquids may not be a good idea.
thanks for the reply, I learned a lot from your video looked threw some of your other videos but did not fine any with a temp setup looking forward to future videos
I had a thought. If you have one of those portable room to room air conditioners where you need to vent the hot side through a window or vent with a big pipe, and it costs a fortune to run and is pointless if you have the window open, couldn't you use your idea to do the following; Safely cut, vent and remove the compressor as its heavy. Use your rig but connect the hot side using the cpu pump to the big heat exchanger the compressor used as its way over sized for this job, and where the evaporator is that blows the cold air, connect your cold water bath to pump cold water through that and you would have a lighter, cheaper to run air con unit that wont get nearly as hot on the back? It may not be perfect but would surely have an air cooling effect? Also would it be safe to add anti-freeze to the water for a better heat exchange, would the pump be adversly effected by this? Just a thought I would be willing to have a go at with my old air con unit that really needs re-gassing but costs more than the unit cost lol
JohnnyX50 Absolutely that would work. The question is how many peltier units would you need to get the same BTUs as the original air conditioner and what would the power consumption be? These dinky little 5 amp units that I play with only have a delta (difference in temperature) of about 20-25 degrees and they would only cool a very small volume of water (maybe a couple cups of water a piece). Maybe you could try 2-3 of the 10 amp units together and see how that does with a gallon of liquid to cool a small room. You could experiment with anti-freeze mixtures to see if you can squeeze out some more performance.
LDSreliance Ok, update :) Thanks for your lovely reply :), here are the specs of my unit.Model B&Q WAP-237EB, Volts-240~50Hz, Power 950W, Current 4.2A, Cooling Capacity 2.3Kw (8000 BT/h) Refrigerant R-407C, Weight 30Kgs. Change of plan. Reverse the use of the heat exchangers, put the cold side through the exhaust exchanger as that fan is extremely forceful and should just create a gentle cooling of the air as it passes round the room. Put the hot side on the smaller exchanger whos fan has a low/med and high setting allowing the hot air to be pointed away from you and downward in a more controlled way. The thermostat relay could be used to power up the computer power supply for the peltier seeing as its a high load capable relay :) It would work similar to our local hospital who use a pipe network under a reservoir to cool the pipe liquid to 10-15C and use it in the air cons in the hospital keeping costs down. Any reduction in temperature by this method is still better than none at all by recirculating room air like a desk fan would :) :feeling inspired:
That is a great idea. I agree, you don't need ice cold air to be comfortable and cool in the summer. Air movement alone across your skin will drop the perceived temperature of the room by 10+ degrees F. So if you can even cool down the air traveling through the exchanger by another 5 degrees I think you would have a nice comfortable room. The only thing that this setup lacks that a normal air conditioner does is remove humidity from the air. But if you have significant air movement in the room that is not as necessary.
ABSOLUTELY AMAZING ......
I'M SO GLAD THAT I'VE FOUND YOUR
RUclips CHANNEL HERE 👏🏼 .......
( KNUCKLE👊🏽BUMP ) DSLreliance....
thanks for the vid!! this was just what i needed to see👍
You are welcome! Thanks for watching.
Nice....I am looking to build a chilled shiner chest for fishing and this is almost exactly what I had in mind except for using a serious heat sink and fan on the hot side. I hope to have the chilled water pass through a spray bar to assist in oxygenation as well.Would a large cpu type sink be enough.
The hot side heat sink is pretty serious although you could use a larger radiator or add another fan to get a push/pull configuration. I am sure you are going to be working with a much higher volume of water so you will want a more powerful peltier.
Thanks for your quick response. I ran across an interesting device when researching this. A thermal link or TCO that would cut the circuit when the sink reaches 91 degrees Celcius....less than a $1. www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/SDF%20DF091S/317-1127-ND/1014756 Just not sure how to connect. I assume you connect it to the negative lead and place it on or near the sink as close as possible to the peltier. I hate to add the expense of the radiator and another pump. With the low cost of the peltier I guess the sink and push/pull fan would be worth trying. If adding the radiator is required I assume it can be a closed system on the hot side but there would have to be a shut down system for safety sake....might boil the water and get a serious steam explosion. What do you think
The system I used on the hot side of my setup is a closed system designed for cooling a CPU on the highest performance computers (www.amazon.com/Corsair-Series-Performance-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B00A0HZMGA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408026198&sr=8-1&keywords=h60).
Even running it over night the hot side of my unit never even got warm to the touch so I doubt it was even 80 degrees in the radiator. These things cool down processors that run at 80 to 100 degrees Celsius (176 to 212 F) and higher so they are overkill for these small peltiers. You could safely run a 10 amp peltier with this same setup.
As for the thermal link, there are quite a few devices that you could use for this: thermistors, bimetallic strips, thermostats, etc. I am using a bimetallic strip on an attic fan that triggers the fans to come on when the attic temps reach 40 C. Works great. Just wire it in series with either the positive or negative wire (shouldn't matter which) and then put the thermal link inside the liquid.
This setup is a pretty awesome idea, but do you think this could be made on a much larger scale? Say, designed to pump a glyco based coolant around to cool a 13 cubic foot area?
BlueLlama Of course. The only drawback to this is the power consumption of the peltier device. At a certain size it becomes cheaper to use a traditional compressor based mechanical air conditioner like you have in your house. Peltiers use a lot of DC power, which either needs to be inefficiently converted from AC house power or expensively produced by solar or wind (expensive on a small scale of power generation I should say).
13 cubic feet might be pushing the limits a bit. Is this for a refrigerator?
In a sense. I'm designing a fermentation chamber that uses a mini fridge as It's primary coolant, but it isn't powerful enough drop to the temps Im aiming for. So any peltier setup would be a supplament to any cooling going on. Shooting for temps around 35-40
Mini fridges don't have the greatest insulation. You might try starting out with a small chest freezer as they are much better insulated.
Check this out as a starter:
newlifeonahomestead.com/convert-chest-freezer-to-fridge-solar/
Gracias por su video más que excelente saludos cordiales desde Chaco Argentina
You are welcome! Thanks for watching!
Great video! I just bought my 1st Peltier Module, and was looking for something to do with it. You've helped a lot! I'm not sure if you know this about yourself, but you make a "tick" sound with your mouth about every 2 sentences (right before you start to say something) hahaha. It's just constructive criticism, because I myself used to do this also, until my wife told me how irritating it was. I've since lowered my mouth ticks to once a paragraph. Still a great video, keep it coming with less "ticks" bro. ;o)
+BMI Global Yeah, I have been told. I don't think I do it in normal conversation but on camera I seem to. Sorry.
this is interesting i will use this idea on my aquarium tank as i have cold water fish and here in Texas it's really hot
houston we have a problem I'm in Texas, too. So you want the water to be cooler than the ambient temperature inside your house? What size aquarium is it? What kind of fish?
LDSreliance i have a 20 gallom and started with some gold fish but the temp likes to get to like 80ish inside when cooking
I see. Then I think a small TEC like in this video would work. It would not cool 20 gallons down very far but would help it from getting up to 80.
i'm hoping to at least keep the temp stable
My best guess is that it will drop the temperature about 2-4 degrees in the tank below what it would normally be. But it would be interesting to find out! Keep me posted.
Thank you so much for the video. I am new to this field of knowledge and just curious, generally how hot does the other side of the peltier gets and whats the temperature of the air that the fan is pumping out?
The hot side gets very hot, but the heat sink spreads out that heat so usually it is not too hot to touch. The bigger and more efficient the heat sink the cooler the hot side will be and, by extension, the colder the cold side will be.
This is the corvair liquid cooler of which I speak. I can see both sets of wires and plugs in your video, I just cannot determine which 2 wires from the 3 wires harness I need to connect......
I took a look at mine and I know what you are talking about. One of the wires on the end is not needed. So put the wire in the middle as the positive wire and then try connecting both of the other wires one at a time and see if the pump turns on. That is the only way to know, really.
Been thinking about using this to cool water then pass it threw a radiator with a fan to cool my boat cabin down. right now I'm just using ice over a sealed copper tube water system using the same 12 volt pump u have. It works pretty good but ice can't last forever. Wonder if this would give me longer run time. It don't take much as long as the water is colder than the air temp is it will have a cooling affect
+djnemesis82pluss1877 There is no doubt it will last longer but it probably won't be as cold as ice. You could still use the ice and let the peltier keep it colder longer and prevent it from melting fast. That might be the best of both worlds.
Hello, great video. I am Brazilian and I have trouble understanding what you say. You could write the list of needed materials? If possible with the links ... Thank you!
Ayrton Albuquerque Sorry about that. Here is a list of the materials I used. These were ordered from a US company so I am not sure where you can get them in Brazil:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0046ECL6W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Z6ZR5O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009X6ADCM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A0HZMGA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DHC2GJ6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
im working on a device like this using 2 peltier devices, cold side is a water block with gravity flow of water using 5 gallon buckets. hot side is a heat sink with 2 candles under. I am waiting for a couple parts still. initial testing with 1 peltier 1 candle I was able to generate 2 volts. I just dribbled water over the heat sink on top as I didnt have a water block yet.
So you are more interested in using this type of setup to generate electricity, not generate cold. That is cool. How is that different from a typical thermoelectric generator that runs off of a wood stove or other heat source?
Have you tried putting 2 peltier units together? The more power you put through the unit the less affective it works so 2 x lower power should be better?
Yes, but I didn't have a way to lower the power at the time. So it was just two peltiers sandwiched and running max power. It was only slightly better performing. I may revisit this again since I now have some better equipment for testing these things.
Helpful video, my room gets hot so I'm looking around to see if there's something I can make, or if I should get an actual air conditioner.
I am curious though, if you had the cool side facing the radiator and fan, and the hot side facing the water pump, would this be a good way to put out cold air?
I'm not sure what you are asking. But here is another option I rigged up that might interest you: ruclips.net/video/Wq83-id7uQ4/видео.html
Hey Just a question, if you flipped the peltier plate would it be blowing out cold air rather than hot?
Yes.
Great work
Thanks! Thanks for watching.
Hey, thank you so much for sharing your project and helping us by giving us an idea about how to make it. I am using same system, same components (maybe a different fan) but it works well. I am trying to cool 2L down, I can cool it 4°C easy but there comes a moment where the temperature doesn't change. I am using a second heat dissipater on the cool side, just above the water block. Any idea or suggestions?
It all comes down to insulation. There is only so much heat that these devices can transfer. The key is to make it as efficient as possible by limiting any sources of losing heat or cold. Wrap insulation around whatever container you are using for the liquid. Wrap the tubes in insulation. Keep the whole apparatus out of direct sunlight or put it somewhere cool, if possible.
Great video,
Would it be possible to use two of the radiator set ups on each side of the peltier unit so that you have cold coolant running through one radiator so that the fan then blows cool air? or is it best to just use an air to air for air cooling?
Thank you for your time and please let me know
Jess Hull I am not really understanding what you are asking but in my experience this liquid cooling is more effective at cooling down air than a simple heat sink. I am sure that is because of the radiator design of these cpu coolers that I use. Air moving through the fins of the radiators transfers heat/cold much better than air coming in contact with a heat sink with limited surface area.
I can’t get mine below 63 degree F. Does the length of hose or amount of water matter? I also bought a slightly different water cooled fan but it’s basically the same. Any help would be appreciated.
Is there a way to add a thermostat to run this through a radiator to make an air conditioner out of it? I found information on making a heater using water from a water heater and a car radiator with a fan now all I need is to know how to put a thermostat to something like this to make an air conditioner out of it. I want to build a van to live in and trying to find ways to do things without having to spend a fortune which God knows so don’t have. Please any help will be greatly appreciated
awesome, I wasnt sure if I could use one, say 12v 120 watt, supply if I could find one, or not. Im still a bit lost with the amps and watts, and what is consumed or what would be too much. On the bright side, my unit just needs new power supply. It is dead, I checked. But as you said, I think Ill just get 2 supplies and make my life simpler lol. I had used a TEC1-12706 12v 60W and a single 60w 12v 5A supply.
You can't provide too much power. All modern electronic devices will only draw the current they need (that I know of). Certainly a peltier and fan and pump will all work fine. I am sure you could find a 120W supply but it will be a lot easier for you to find 2 60W supplies (and cheaper).
Just to be clear ... you say you used 4 quarts of water and the temp was down to 50F in one hour -- what was the temp of the water at the beginning of that one hour? Knowing the amount of water and the delta temperature is about all you need to calculate actual cooling power.
I don't remember. Sorry
Sir i have a question,have you ever built a peltier air conditioning unit using heat pump?Because i read some books regarding peltier air conditioning that when you use heat pumps inplace with a compressor you have a better efficiency is that true sir? thanks
+Jiffcloyd Jagus I have not tried it so I don't know the answer.
What do you call that small blue box-shaped that you attached on the cold side of the peltier, where the water circulates? Thanks for response :) For our thesis :)
+John Dy That is a cold plate or water block. It is a piece of aluminum with channels inside that water passes through to be cooled down. Looks like a maze inside if you were to cut it open. Water comes in one side and then zigs and zags around until it comes out the other side much colder kind of like a radiator on a car.
excellent
Thanks! I appreciate that.
Smooth and easy - great video! thx:)
You are welcome. Thanks for watching!
hi, i have a 5v peltier, if i use a 12v will it give more power and more coldness? or is it more about the W or Amps? what do u recommend me? thanks!
I don't know for sure but I think it will burn up a 5v peltier to give it 12v.
Hi, thanks very much for the video it was really helpful!
How did you manage to connect the 4-pin pushpin adaptor for the heatsink to the power adapter?
You have to cut off the 4 pin connector and use the positive and negative wires (the other 2 are related to speed and are not needed) to connect to the power adapter. There will be a little arrow on the 4 pin connector that shows you which wire is the negative wire and it is always the farthest wire to one side. If you cut off the connector and forget which wire is which, just use trial and error.
I want to build a low energy air conditioner integrating what you have here with a dehumifier, I still need to gather some more materials.
+lordbryson Sounds like a cool project. However, it is not low energy. For the amount of cooling you get the energy required is actually quite high.
But a compresor for a real air conditioner demands higher amperes, which translates in a higher energy requirements
does It?
lordbryson
The compressor on an air conditioner or refrigerator does require high amps to start up but after 5-20 seconds it will drop off a LOT and run steady at low current. For example, my mini fridge needed 2000+ watts to start up but only about 100 watts to stay running.
I am planning on doing this for a two gallon igloo water cooler. Do you think that 1 cooler module with be enough?
In this video I was cooling about 8 cups of water if I remember correctly. To cool 2 gallons you will need a much more powerful peltier. I would start with a 20-25 amp unit and go from there.
thank you
ancient old ones
You are welcome. Good luck!
On the heat side, you dont need liquid cooling. just use standard heatsink. I recommend amd phenom II heatsink. it has direct CU.
+sam4malaysia I disagree. You want the hot side to be as cold as possible so that the cold side can get even colder. That is how delta temp differential works. For lower power peltiers I am sure you are right you only need a copper heat sink or efficient aluminum one with heat pipes. But for 10a+ models I think liquid cooling does the best job of keeping it as cool as possible.
Could you put cooling liquid in this? Anti-freeze would be useful.
Do you control the temperature by the power going to he cell?
What happens if you don't cool the hot side, would it damage the cell?
You could use anti-freeze or any liquid, I suppose. You could control the temperature by the voltage but it would not be linear and would require a lot of trial and error. Yes, if you do not cool the hot side it will burn itself out in seconds.
Hi ! We'd like to build a device able to cool down 75ml of water (from 20°C to 7-8°C) in less than a minute (30sec would be awesome). We thought of many things and the 2 main are : 1) we create a maze of copper such as what is used inside the thermoblock of a Nespresso Machine (or any coffer maker huh). We apply 1 to 3 Peltier on it with thermal paste and everything and we pump it really slow. Slow enough for it to cool and fast enough not to freeze. The inside diameter of the copper tube is 2mm. 2) your system. We create a loop and the water quickly goes in and out of the aluminium block until it reaches the good temperature. Do you have any tips ? Such as if you think it is possible? And how eheh? Btw great video, some things are clearer now. PS : if we try your system with our goals, should we order an aluminium block of 40mm*40mm, 80*40 or 120*40 ?
+Charles Mahé Desportes 75ml is only a tiny amount of liquid. I think you could easily do that with either method. I only have experience with my method, though. The only challenge with getting my method to work with such a small amount of liquid is the diameter of the tubing. You would have to find a small liquid reservoir and use smaller tubing somehow so that you could suck up the liquid from the reservoir more slowly. The setup I have would empty 75ml in seconds and cavitate the water pump.
I've bought the same CPU pad, water pump etc, but can you please tell me the size tubing you used?
I am trying to make a homebrew AC unit for my tiny bedroom.
Basically I am having 2 peltiers in parallel, both hot and cold facing the same side.
Then I am using a total of four of the blue contact water pads.
It will have 2 closed circuit loops.
One side, water is pumped through both cold sides of the peltier, then through a tube to a radiator and a fan on the inside of my room, and back to the reservoir again.
The other side will pump another water circuit over both hot sides, to another fan/radiator on the outside, and back to the hot side reservoir.
I don't expect it to cool my whole room, just remove a bit of heat created by the server.
Dan Coulson That sounds cool. Please tell me how it ends up working!
The tubing I purchased is here:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0046ECL6W?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
LDSreliance Cheers for the link. I can't order it from here unless I get about $30 worth (UK £15~), but at least I know the diameter now. Thank you for your help.
Incase anyone else is wondering, it's 5/16 by 7/16 Inch tubing.
I really hope this works now, I've spent about £60 (US$90~) on al of the bits and bobs. Even a 500W PC PSU for stable 12v supply for two peltiers at the same time.
Thermal paste,
Mini radiators, the works...
I will need to assemble two housings, one for the cool side radiator and fan, with a drip pan to collect condensation and direct it outside.
The hot side case, must be weather proof, as I intend to use the PSU outside to reduce waste heat from pumps etc going back into the room I'm trying to cool.
Even if it does not work, I will let you know how it goes, and include a video. Cheers for the inspiration :)
If the small 120mm fan is not enough on the cool side, I will replace the cold side radiator with a coil of copper wire, and loop it infront of my large 18 inch floor fan.
I could then have both smaller fans on the outside to compensate for the larger inside fan.
Thinking about it, it would probably be better to have two fans on the outer unit to compensate for waste heat generated by other components.
In any system like this, the total net always equals more heat.
Dan Coulson I agree. Everyone always tells me to overdo the hot side cooling in comparison to the heat sinks and fans on the cold side. It can only help.
hey nice project
cn u give me the ratio of time to temperature graph or ratio
or how much time it takes to reach a specific temperature hot or cold
thanks
I'm currently designing a cheap sustainable fridge for Cameroon and I'm just wondering whether this method could be used?? also, how cheap are these utensils?? and does in need much power to run??
thanks, ollie
+Ollie Bamsey The peltiers themselves can be gotten for $5 or less per piece. But the cooling devices are not cheap ($65-70 each). You could air cool them with a properly designed cold plate on the inside (cold side) and then a high surface area heat sink and fan setup for the outside (hot side). I bet a prototype could be built for under $100 including insulation and a case/box with hardware, excluding tool up costs. In bulk I bet you could manufacture something like that for a cost of $50-60 each. I'm not a product engineer but that would be my best guess.
It does need a good amount of power to run, so that is the problem. To power one of the 5 amp peltiers around the clock (using a thermostat to modulate) it would require about 1 kWh per day to run. That is not much if there is an electrical power grid but if you had to run this off of solar it would be expensive.
Great info, just a 1 question though... If I wanted this device to switch on and off at set temperatures, or just simply run at a set temperature, how would I achieve this?
You can wire in a thermostat very easily. There are some good cheap ones with remote probes that you could just drop in the water and set it to a certain temp. It will cut power when it reaches that temp and turn it back on when it warms back up a bit.
I have almost the exact same setup but with a heatsink and fan (CPU) instead of water cooling the hot side, however I'm unable to get any cooling effect at all with a 4 litre tank (~1 gal), I can feel the blue cooling block getting somewhat colder through. I figured the pump may heat the water but your video seems to disprove that theory. Any ideas?
What peltier unit are you using? How much power is it consuming (i.e. can you measure it?)? Did you use thermal paste between the peltier and the heatsinks? Is there a tight fit (i.e. did you clamp it together firmly so that the peltier has good even contact with the heat sinks)?
Other than that I would try a different peltier. Those things are very cheaply made and I have gotten several duds that just didn't draw as much power as they were supposed to or just didn't work at all.
Thanks for responding. I am referring to the 3 wire plug from the coolant recirc pump on the cpu cooler. I got the radiator fan, just can't seem to hear the coolant pump...
I have never seen one with 3 wires. Are you sure it is DC? 3 wires sounds like AC to me.
Hello. I'm trying to build this water cooler, but I cannot seem to figure out which wire is which for the cpu fan/cooler pump. I have the fan working, but can't tell if the coolant pump is coming on or not. Any suggestions?
If you put your ear up to the pump you should be able to hear a slight vibrating/buzzing sound from it if it is running. As far as the wires, there are 4 wires that are side by side in a flat ribbon configuration. The one on the far side is the negative wire (will be marked by a ^ or arrow if you still have the connector on there - if you already cut it off then you will have to do trial and error). The wire next to the negative wire is always the positive wire. The other 2 wires are not needed.
Great video! One question; I'm trying to assemble a similar setup using a Corsair Hydro Series H60 CPU cooler but I'm unsure of how to actually power it with a similar laptop power source due to the pre-assembled connections at the end of the Corsair cooler. Can you explain in a little more detail how you wired them up? Any additional comments are greatly appreciated!
If you don't want to hack the ends off the Corsair cooler, you can buy some cheap adapters online and then hack the ends off of those. There are all kinds of adapters for PC building that convert a connector to another style connector.
@@LDSreliance thanks! I'm actually planning on connecting them to a power source similar to the one you used in your video so I was trying to get the specifics of the wiring setup. I'm trying to cool the water in a market fan that I bought which mists water out the front. My theory is that cooling the misting water beyond the ambient temp will create a greater cooling effect. Or so I hope!
I would say that should work. Like I showed in the video, you do have to chop off the end of the laptop power adapter cable and connect/solder it to the ends of the cable that goes to the Corsair cooler. If you don't want to permanently modify the Corsair cooler, I don't blame you but you will need to purchase an adapter for the it and then modify the adapter.
@@LDSreliance Got it. Thanks for all of the feedback!
You are welcome. Good luck!
sir went thru your videos . I have few doughts to be clarified. sir can i know the size of the peltier which is used in this video , what is latest of it version of this. i have plan to use this for converition of air to water will it workout. if we work on this will we be able achive minim targeted amout of water from the atmosphere ?? . Pls advice me asap thsnking you
The peltier in this video was a 5 amp unit TEC1-12705. I'm not sure what you are asking on the rest.
Thank you
+Yoo Me No problem. Thanks for watching!
I was wondering if you could recommend a battery that would run 2 peltiers and a cpu, I'm working on a little project and my 12v motorcycle battery isn't cutting it, thank ya much sir!
so it's basically a compressorless water source heat pump that would take too long to condition a space, or could it on a larger scale?
+knockitofff TEC coolers/heaters are not as efficient as compressor based systems but they have a few advantages that may interest some people. You could condition a large volume of air with this type of setup but it would take a much more powerful TEC and would use a significant amount of energy to accomplish.
so i have a question for ya, assuming that you did a liquid/liquid cooled peltier (ie, liquid on the cold, liquid on the hot), how cold do you think the cold side radiator would get? how hot would the hot side get? assuming the TEC1-12706 (ie ~100w), i'm looking to blow air across the cold side radiator through a box (in a vented application, NOT SEALED) and was looking to obtain lower tempteratures, i'm not looking for sub-zero stuff, maybe a 5 degree air temp change. i'm exchanging the air in this box multiple times a minute already to compensate for the heat already generated inside.
currently, the ambient air being pulled into the box is around 66-70F, but even though I am cycling it multiple (3-5) times a minute, the air temperature still rises to almost 85 degrees F. optimally i'd like to get it down to 80 or less.
I would go with a refrigerant setup, but due to the size and weight, that is nearly impossible unless i found a very very small unit or build my own. I think I would only need maybe 1000 to 3000 btu's.
have you tried just free-airing both sides of the heat exchangers to see how hot/cold the air is coming off of each?
+Munky332 I think you need to watch my video series on my diy mini fridge. It is an enclosed, insulated box but I think it answers 90% of your questions. The first video is here and there are 5 parts in the series: ruclips.net/video/TjX-5zjhPlQ/видео.html
If you have questions after that let me know.
+LDSreliance thanks. Yea I've been watching them. The biggest issue is I vent the box so the cool air probably won't stay. I'm also looking into vortex tubes but they use compressed air and it looks like they require alot of it. So we'll see.
Munky332 Oh ok. How big is the vent? Is the box insulated? I'm having trouble picturing what you are trying to do. What is this for?
can you use this as an aquarium chiller for axolotls, like connect it to thermostat?
Yes, that is what I built it for originally. Not for axolotls but for an aquarium dosing chiller.
@LDSreliance thank you so much. I was originally planning on making an incubator for my leopard gecko eggs. Coz I need a cool incubator to produce female. But then I thought maybe I can use it as well if we decide to have axolotls
You could use it for heating or cooling but it may be a bit hard to control without rigging up some sort of voltage regulator to moderate how much heating and cooling it will produce.
@LDSreliance I was planning on putting a thermostat like what I placed in my reptiles' tank for their heat mats. It will automatically turn on or off if it reaches a particular temperature. Like what I placed here ruclips.net/video/zUMySoKWcQ0/видео.html
Can you provide the link on Amazon or whatever site you purchased the blue block that has the two hose tubes for the water exchange on the cool side of the Peltier module? And what is that blue block "thingy" called?
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DHC2GJ6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Looks like they have an incorrect picture on there. This was the item I purchased (blue water block) in my order history.
Hey thanks for the great video. I was wondering do you know if its more efficient to use a peltier than a condenser in an AC and how much more efficient it is? Hopefully I am making sense here
No, it is not more efficient than a condenser style air conditioner/refrigerator. But it does have advantages. They last longer, require no maintenance, are more rugged and tolerant of abuse (you can't lay a fridge on its side, for example), and take up a lot less space.
i was thinking of away to use this in a pc. maybe on the air intake side of a radiator and have fans pulling the air through, or on the more meatier metal sides of the radiator. wut are ur thoughts? btw i wanna o.c. the crap out of my fx8350 XD got to the big 5.0 ghz now i wanna push for 5.5ghz!!!!!
rustypro98 You could chill the liquid in a front-mount radiator on your pc case. That way the air passing through the radiator and into the pc case would be cooler by about 20-30 degrees F. Lots of people use peltiers to directly cool down their cpu. Go to Tomshardware.com for more info on that.
what if you pump that 44 degree water through an evaporator or transmission cooler with a 12 volt fan blowing across it ? Maybe it would act like a mini air conditioner ?
I'm going to try and do this
Andrew B I am in the process of designing a system to do just that in my 79 C10. my ac doesn't work anyways, so I figure, 3x150w peltier+ water blocks and a pump with antifreeze in the system and I figure I could pump cold water through the evaporator and make a make shift ac
mineral oil (baby oil) try that instead of anti freeze sounds crazy im sure but ive used mineral oil in my days of dissipating heat from electronics back in the 90s and i fugure so why not for cooling i just havnt tried it yet but i will soon enough
Steven Rowland it's not crazy but I was thinking antifreeze for a car would work fine. Thoughts as to why mineral oil would work better?
non-conductive is the primary reason and still flows well when its cold but also non-corrosive with it being oil based metals would have not problem with it. Antifreeze would work no doubt about that but its water based and not a good idea if there electronics close by should you ever develop a leak from and aged line could cost an enthusiast alot of money in electronics being fried from a water leak i cringe at the thought of that. Ive been a couple of weeks now thinking which way to go with a 10 cubic foot fridge that the compressor failed ever so conveniently after the full warranty went out and though the part is free being under warranty for 5 years i would have to pay the labor ( close to the cost of the fridge) to fix it. I dont think so.
Can it be used the other way round to use the big fan as a spot air cooler?
+Gairik Biswas Yes, you can. It will not feel very cool unless you are using a strong peltier unit, though. Much stronger than the one I used in this video. I would say at least 15 amps.
Nice build. I'm going to try something similar. I want to cool 1 litre of drinking water from 25-30 degrees celsius to 15-20 degrees celsius in around 20-25 minutes. Ambeint temperature would be around 35 degrees. If i build a rig just like yours, will it get the job done? Or would i need a more powerful peltier? Is there any other way to get better cooling?
Will you be making a video with the radiator in the water and adding salt to the water? If you have a way I can donate to you I would just to see this :) other than that great channel man, subscribed.
7EvilAdams Haha no need for donations. Just keep watching the videos!
I am about to go on vacation but I will add this to my board of ideas for new videos and try to work on that when I get back in a couple of weeks.
LDSreliance ok :) thank you mate, keep up the good work
Hey i m also working on this project..i put heat sink on hot side ...and may i put another heat sink on cool side.?????.because our module getting cool but it did not blow the air inside the thermocol...please reply me as soon as possible...
Yes you can put another heat sink/fan combo on the cold side instead of using liquid. Check out my other video for more information: ruclips.net/video/Ipt8xqKbCSw/видео.html
thank you very much dude
You are welcome. Thanks for watching!
I'm trying to produce an A/C unit for an old Opel kadett, running chilled water through the heater matrix .... Using peltier ..
im building the exact thing you did only the the cold side is circulated through a second radiator with fans that make really cold air...
+ToxiC BikEr Nice. I have had quite a few people comment or email me about something like that. How well does it work? Do you have any data?
it will take a bit if time to complete this project because even the heat exchange radiador is custom built from scratch and this air conditioner will be built in a larger scale.. (4-8) peltier units and even more) when this project will be finaly built i will P.M you with the video :D
ToxiC BikEr
Sounds great. I would be interested. I designed something like this once upon a time but never built it. So I am curious how yours will turn out.
how did you determine which side is hot or cold? Thank for the video, Billy
Connect it to the power source for 3-4 seconds (no longer than this) and then touch each side with your fingers. One side will be warm and one side cool. That is the only way I know to test it.
Thank you for your response, I've spent hours on the net trying to figure this out. I'm replacing a TEG for a friend in a wood stove fan, so may be I can ask one more Q, which side goes to the stove side, or does it matter? Thank you, all the best to you and your, Billy
I am not an expert on TEG's but I don't think it matters which side you heat up. All it needs is a difference in temperature between the two sides. I think whichever side you heat up ends up determining the polarity but I don't think it matters which side you attach to the heat source.
Can you try adding salt to the cool side water to see how much colder it will get? My guess is that if you used anti-freeze it would drop the temp by a good 10-15 degrees.
An excellent suggestion. I will try this sometime with my own setup. However, this setup that I am showing in the video is for one of my subscribers and he will be using his own liquid on the cold side because that is why he wanted the setup. He wants to keep some of his aquarium fluids cool.
LDSreliance sweet, I just subscribed so I'll be coming up with a list of tests for you to do so I can save all that $ on modules, heat exchangers, etc. And the time I'll save. Can't wait to tell the kids they have their dad back and I can come out of the shed now! You might want to start researching stirling cryocoolers and low temperature rankine cycles. You're gonna be busy! Great videos BTW!
Thanks for the feedback and subscription! You know the other subscriber paid for all the components but my time was free :) I know you are joking but if you want me to try something out I am happy to do so as long as I have the parts laying around.
Would you please explain how did you assemble them ?
Am i right in thinking the more heat you can remove from the hot side the greater cooling on the other?
Yes, exactly! It is more critical to get the hot side to shed heat efficiently than anything else.
Out of curiosity, I believe you understand the difference between TEC and TEG...
Is is possible to build a TEC sticking to a TEG as power source to cool something?
Instead of having the TEC's heat-waste basically 'wasted'...
The hot side of the TEC would not get hot enough to generate more than a trickle of power. Most purpose built TEG's need 240-340 degrees Celsius to generate meaningful power.
@@LDSreliance Ahhh...
How about 9 TEC in 3x3 (or 16 TEC in 4x4 or 25 in 5x5 etc) and using heatsink to pull the heat to 1 TEG?
Is it still not enough?
I'm thinking instead of the TEC's heat part basically wasted...
No matter how small, is it really meaningful enough for 16 or 25 TEC to allow 1 TEG to reduce like maybe 1 or 2 TEC's consumption?
No because regular TECs cannot heat up to that temperature. If they get past about 80-90C they will burn up.
Saw a guy put this setup on a PC but it would cause frost on the socket and kill it. How could I limit it above freezing?
You can regulate the voltage to the TEC and find the point that works for the temp you want to achieve.
How to figure out the positive and negative wire on a 4 pin pc fan
is it safe to drink? Does that heatsink release or contaminate water or anything?
I would not drink it. None of the materials are rated to be food safe. The plastic may contain BPA or something and then the pump may be harmful somehow, too. And the aluminum heat sink is powdercoated or something. Just not worth the chance.
How well do you think this would work if I added this setup to my evaporative cooler? I would think it would make a huge difference and would cool down my room but do you think it would too?
7EvilAdams I don't know about that one. At first it sounds like it would but the cooling from your evaporative cooler comes from actual evaporation, not the temperature of the water. At least that is my understanding. You could certainly try it out and see. I live in Texas and evaporative coolers don't work here because of the humidity so I can't test that out.
LDSreliance I think the temperature of the water does affect it as my evaporative cooler came with ice packs to use in the water but I will buy the parts needed for this and test it myself :) could you look over the parts I am thinking of buying for this build? I would have used the exact same parts from your build but I live in the UK. Thanks for your help
Waterblock - www.ebay.co.uk/itm/North-South-Bridge-Copper-Base-Water-Cooling-Block-Waterblock-for-7-10mm-Tube-/281731145739?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item41987c200b
Other Parts - www.amazon.co.uk/gp/registry/wishlist/ZFZ31HZXTMQN/ref=cm_wl_rlist_go_o?
Everything looks good except maybe that north/south bridge water block. That is different from a CPU block and may not be able to latch down with the Corsair H60 water block. If you use that you may need to rig up a different adapter to use for sandwiching it all together.
LDSreliance ok, thanks I will be sure to update you how well it all works when I get the parts :)
Hi there, I just purchased parts to do this myself. Just played around a little bit, but I noticed one problem if you could possibly help me out. For the pump they sent the wrong plug in so wasn't able to try with the water. However I hooked up everything but I didn't get any fan movement for the radiator or small cooling fan itself.... My question is, do I need the pump working to get the movement from the fans or should electricity still move the fans?
Is it all on one connector? Which pump were you not able to wire up?
this is what they sent me... www.smartclima.com/thermoelectric-cooling-modular-part-kit.htm
the fountain pump had EU prongs instead of American prongs, so need to go to local hardware store to purchase a new pump.
Hmmm. It looks like all those devices connect to the power supply in the upper left of that picture. So the pump should not have anything to do with the other devices.
my thpughts exactly.... however i can not get the fans to work and im not exactly sure why. the module works for heat and cold, but the fans just dont turn on..
Can you try using a different power source? Do you have a car battery laying around or worst case connect 8 AA batteries in series (end to end)? That way you could at least test that the fan works. If it does then it is either a wiring mistake or a bad power supply.
Does the size of the waterblock matter? Because the component I have is 40mmx120mmx12mm rather than 40mmx40mmx12mm like the one you've used, and I was wondering if it would function the same.
The internal fin design will matter as much as the size. I don't know which would be better... larger or smaller. In theory, the larger one would give the water more time to cool down as it travels through. However, also in theory the smaller block would get colder than the bigger block because it doesn't have as much mass to cool down and so the water may get colder, too.
Would be an interesting experiment to test!
LDSreliance Got it, thanks! Also does the AC adapter have to be 5Amps or can it be around that, say 4.5A for example?
The peltier module will work with less current but it will not get as cold. Some people say it is more efficient at lower current than its rated current but I have never tested it. It will for sure not get as cold.
Care to do a redo switch the water side to a 50 gallon barrel use the fan side for cooling.
I would like to revisit this at some point for sure.
Will it work if i use it in my car as a air cooler?
hello, could you tell me what size tubing did you use for your water pump and water block
+Mr.smiley 426 7/16 OD and 5/16 ID tubing. Here is a link: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0046ECL6W?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
So If i wanted to build a cabinet cooling system with multiple unit's would I 1.Be abe to use water cooled for the hot-side to lower overall temp and then use air over the cool side to spread around? 2.Would I be able to drop from between 35-40 C down to 25-30 C in a space that is 1120mm x 500mm x 1500mm?(space may be increasing) It is kinda important and it's been a struggle to get information.
Yes to both questions. It will work. The only question is how much power you need to make it work. Peltiers are not efficient so be prepared to supply a lot of watts compared to a normal cooling system.
is there anything like this available for purchase? I really need one.
I can make them. I am working on a slightly better version. Why don't you shoot me an email at ldsreliance@gmail.com.
I put the heat sink and fan to the hot side of my peltier , however i noticed that the fan is not sucking the air from the heatsink but throwing the air towards the heatsink. I am confused here. After this arrangement my peltier module stopped working. It wont cool down now. Any help on this?
Aman Khan The fan is just a bonus, the heat sink is doing most of the work. I would suspect that there may not have been good contact between the heat sink and hot side of the peltier. Did you use thermal paste? What did you use to attach the heat sink to the peltier if there was nothing on the cool side to sandwich it?
Hey did this setup worked for you? The radiator setup didn't burnt the peltier module? I've been thinking of doing this for a DIY aquarium chiller since commercial chillers are very expensive.
It worked well. This project was for an aquarium dosing application for one of my subscribers. One of the peltiers died so we had to replace it but other than that it seems to have been great.
What water block did you use? since aluminum will make the water toxic. and did the temp get lower than 20°C? because I need the water to be lower or equal to that.
Marc Wivenson Co You can get the water to colder than that with better insulation and a more powerful peltier. The water block was aluminum so you would have to find something that was fish friendly, especially if you are using salt water which would corrode most metals.
Are there any other mediums than aluminum and copper? I think there isn't have you tried doing it like having the tube from the aquarium run to the cold water on the container? will that be any good?
Marc Wivenson Co There isn't a thermally conductive material that they make water blocks or heat exchangers that can handle salt water and live fish. You could try cooling water and then running it through an RO filter to get out any metals or maybe run it through a refugium or some mangrove to filter it. Sorry I don't know what else to tell you.
LDSreliance Hi, im thinking about using this method for something, but i need to know what the peak temperatures are for the Peltier?
The main rating for a peltier unit is the difference (delta) between the hot and cold sides. In this video I used a 12705 which is a 5 amp unit and has a delta of 70-79 degrees celsius (depending on how much voltage you use - 16v vs 17.2 respectively).
The hot side is rated at 27 and 50 degrees celsius and again depends on the voltage you use (16 vs 17.2).
So if you put those 2 ratings together, the coldest you could possibly get at 17.2v on the cold side is -29 degrees Celsius. Keep in mind that is just the surface of the peltier, not counting any heat sink or anything else.
LDSreliance so if i were to configure it into a liquid cooling loop, the peltier wouldn't transfer the full amount of cold onto a water block
You are going to lose some energy in the transfer. The peltier can only shed so much heat energy from the cold side of the plate so it can either make a big temperature difference on a very small item (like a drop of water instantly freezing) or a small temperature difference in a larger item (like a gallon of water dropping in temperature by 5-10 degrees). Does that make sense?
LDSreliance yea, i understand, i guess for what i want to use it for, wouldn't suffice. Thanks for replying :)
Well if you need more cooling power they do make more powerful peltiers. I have seen some all the way up to several hundred watts. You could also use multiple setups. What are you trying to cool down?
If you were to reverse the polarity of the peltier element effectively switching the cooling and heating sides, what would happen in the loop?
It would work in reverse and heat the water instead of cool it. Shouldn't have any problems at all.
does it work ok? what about the condensation
Works great. The condensation happens on the tubes but it doesn't drip off like I thought it would. Ideally you would want to wrap the tubes in some sort of insulation to prevent that and to prevent heat loss but the insulation I bought and showed in the video was not working really well.
well all was going great, until a loud pop and then no more power. I
just saw you have two laptop power supplies, and I tried using just one.
Are two required? or is there a larger one that could power both that
you know of?
It depends on the power supply. The TEC that was used in this video requires 5A @ 12V (60W) so if you tried to put that and some fans on a 5A power supply it probably overheated. I would recommend one power supply per TEC because usually those cheap laptop/monitor power supplies are about 65W each or so. Then you will need one for the fans and pump, too.
I Would Need To Cool A 125 Gallon. Can this be made on a larger scale. Safely
Edward Vasquez Yes it is very safe. How many degrees would you need to cool down?
Is it possible to cool a gallon of water with the same setup to perhaps 60 degrees in an environment of 75 degrees and water temperature of 72 degrees.
+dudeu4real Yes, it all comes down to how well you can insulate the water. It may take several hours to get down to temp but it will stay there if the reservoir is well insulated.
A few proofs of concept here. I love it BUT, I'm wondering, could you heat one said to make the other side cold somehow?
No, you can't add heat to generate cold. You can take away heat from the hot side to make cold. And that is what this device does. It dissipates heat from the hot side so that the cold side gets colder.
Although it isn't exactly what you asked for you can add heat to generate electricity. That is called a thermoelectric generator or TEG.
LDSreliance it figures. Doesn't hurt to ask though.
Yeah, sorry. That would be an interesting device, though, if it existed. Maybe it does but I don't know of it.