Just a quick tip. When removing broken dowel tenons I do most of it like you do, except when you get down to the final shell of the remaining dowel in the mortise. I dont like to peel it because I dont want to risk chipping the shoulder and losing that critical tight glue surface. I use the final diameter of the dowel(3/8), use a bradpoint drill bit and run the bit in reverse until you reach the end airspace. Then i slowly run the bit in forward (cutting) position. Doing it this way significantly reduces excess mortise removal AND the possibility that you change the angle of the mortise. The drill bit leaves the mortise clean and no improvised cleaning of the glue is needed.
Larry, you should invest in a good set of lipped brad point drill bits, the brad point makes sure your bit doesn’t wander and the lip gives you a nice clean cut. Lee Valley sells some good ones.
Hey Larry. Loved your shit - still refer back to your shows for reference on how to deal with particular details. Good luck to you in all your endeavours!
Nice. I can’t do it to my chairs but yours look great. The previous repair on mine, now corrected, has left holes all over chair, every corner, the base, legs, even the seat. I can’t imagine why. If the idiot had just put the screws back in where they belonged none of this would have been necessary. No matter, they are mine now and they are fixed. I’ll address the holes another day.
When drilling with a hand drill use a scrap piece (I usually use a 2x4) of lumber with a hole drilled the same size using your drill press. This way you know it’s 90 degrees vertical. Just make the scrap a good size so that you can clamp it to the piece you are working on. The bit will follow the predrilled hole straight up and down.
The problem is these dowels are the weak point of this chair design. The back leg set dowels creep apart over time no matter what glue is used. When the dowels creep out of the dowel holes enough they lose strength and break. There needs to be a fix to prevent the dowels from backing out again over time and use.
We always have to respect the customer's wishes but if they were mine I'd put a wooden plug in those screw holes and then scrape them down painted dots and all. Not a criticism, just an opinion.
Hello, dear Lorry! Have a question concerning epoxy and pigment colour in shelaac you used ( please a name in English). Unfortunately now all you use i can buy in here, even Amazon doesn't deliver a lot of well known items you use to my country. Thank you for a nice video !!
Oh my. You can try with whatever clear top coating medium you can find, such as spray lacquer, polyurethane, acrylic, artists paint, etc. Just make sure it will get along with whatever material you will be top coating with.
I have 3 adhesives that get the most use, depending on thejob. I use Titebond II for my regular PVA (carpenter's) glue. I use Behlen's Hot Hide Glue and West System Marine Epoxy.
The bottle is called a "Gluebot". I think they are around $10 or so. If that's not what you were inquiring about, let me know where in the video you saw the syringe. Thanks.
Just a quick tip. When removing broken dowel tenons I do most of it like you do, except when you get down to the final shell of the remaining dowel in the mortise. I dont like to peel it because I dont want to risk chipping the shoulder and losing that critical tight glue surface. I use the final diameter of the dowel(3/8), use a bradpoint drill bit and run the bit in reverse until you reach the end airspace. Then i slowly run the bit in forward (cutting) position. Doing it this way significantly reduces excess mortise removal AND the possibility that you change the angle of the mortise. The drill bit leaves the mortise clean and no improvised cleaning of the glue is needed.
Larry, you should invest in a good set of lipped brad point drill bits, the brad point makes sure your bit doesn’t wander and the lip gives you a nice clean cut. Lee Valley sells some good ones.
Great chairs with the WORST upholstery (you're correct). Lot of life left in those chairs. Glad you saved them.
Hey Larry. Loved your shit - still refer back to your shows for reference on how to deal with particular details. Good luck to you in all your endeavours!
Nice. I can’t do it to my chairs but yours look great. The previous repair on mine, now corrected, has left holes all over chair, every corner, the base, legs, even the seat. I can’t imagine why. If the idiot had just put the screws back in where they belonged none of this would have been necessary. No matter, they are mine now and they are fixed. I’ll address the holes another day.
When drilling with a hand drill use a scrap piece (I usually use a 2x4) of lumber with a hole drilled the same size using your drill press. This way you know it’s 90 degrees vertical. Just make the scrap a good size so that you can clamp it to the piece you are working on. The bit will follow the predrilled hole straight up and down.
Good job! and... very helpful. I have a set of MCM DR chairs that all need tightening. I'm going to try to do it myself. thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
When I'm high, I like to sand and scrape. 😮😅
good job
That chisel would love to make contact with one of your fingers!
The problem is these dowels are the weak point of this chair design. The back leg set dowels creep apart over time no matter what glue is used. When the dowels creep out of the dowel holes enough they lose strength and break. There needs to be a fix to prevent the dowels from backing out again over time and use.
Needle nose vise grips from the get go.
When you spray the lacquer on, how do you know the sheen is right? I would think it would be too obvious.
4:58 : great pearl of wisdom! Is that yours?
Yeah, that's mine as far as I know, but it wouldn't surprise me if someone beat me to it. Thanks for watching.
What are the 2 scraping tools used from 7:46 to 8:03?
We always have to respect the customer's wishes but if they were mine I'd put a wooden plug in those screw holes and then scrape them down painted dots and all. Not a criticism, just an opinion.
Hello, dear Lorry! Have a question concerning epoxy and pigment colour in shelaac you used ( please a name in English). Unfortunately now all you use i can buy in here, even Amazon doesn't deliver a lot of well known items you use to my country. Thank you for a nice video !!
You can use shellac for the liquid. The color is just a dried pigment powder. I hope this helps.
Thank you for reply. Unfortunately there is no shellac here...
Oh my. You can try with whatever clear top coating medium you can find, such as spray lacquer, polyurethane, acrylic, artists paint, etc. Just make sure it will get along with whatever material you will be top coating with.
could have just put the screw head in the drill chuck and put it in reverse
What type of glue is that? Do you have a favorite brand or doesnt matter?
I have 3 adhesives that get the most use, depending on thejob. I use Titebond II for my regular PVA (carpenter's) glue. I use Behlen's Hot Hide Glue and West System Marine Epoxy.
Hey man! What brand of glue syringe are you using? Thanks!
The bottle is called a "Gluebot". I think they are around $10 or so. If that's not what you were inquiring about, let me know where in the video you saw the syringe. Thanks.
I did it myself thanks to Woodglut.