Yep definitely good video.. I’m sure many get confused on if you had to change motor with an old open frame motors an how to deal with that .I like how some brass come with the pp motors or can motors
Great point! DCC decoders will work with both can and open frame motors. While it is true that most people will often perform a can motor upgrade during/before a dcc install, it should be noted that DCC works fine with open frame motors as long as it draws less current than what the decoder is rated for. The reason why people do the motor upgrade is: 1. convenience. you already got the loco taken apart for the install anyways, might as well upgrade the motor in the process. 2. can motors often run smoother and quieter. Skew armatures, more cores, and being manufactured more recently means can motors run better. 3. Open frame motors GENERALLY draw more current. Can motors are more efficient and draw less current. Most modern HO decoders are rated 1.5amps, which is enough to handle open frame motors, but IF your open frame draws even more then yes youll have to replace it before installing a decoder. BUT I have seen many well performing low current open frame motors. In those few cases I dont bother replacing it. Cheers!
I do installs almost exactly the same way - notch the smokebox for the light wires, buy LEDs and connectors in bulk, add pickups to all wheels, and so on. I really appreciate the stuff I find difficult , keep alives, mounting the speaker, clear glass paste to center the LED. Now I feel confident to add sound to an identical 0-4-0j
I found a trick. I have several Sunset brass imports 0-6-0's; all but one with "Vanderbuilt" type tenders. Other that cutting the bottom out, any suggestions on a decoder install with speaker? Thanks @@trainman440
I like how you did yours, I have a key B6sb with the same slope back tender, I ended up throwing a iphone 6S speaker in there, it's not perfect but it gets the job done.
Thanks for the video. I did a similar installation into a Sunset PRR 0-6-0 that appears to have that same tender. I chose to put the speaker (3/4" round) in the coal bunker with a thin wafer of styrofoam over it to make a coal load. I squeezed a Soundtraxx Tsunami and CurrentKeeper into the tender. It was pretty full but all fit OK.
Hello! thanks for sharing what you did. Yea putting the speaker in the coal bunker is the other option. I'll be doing that for my current project, a 4-6-6t, where there is actually ZERO space in the engine, so its gotta go in the coal bunker. It'll be a cool chance for me to give it a shot. Cheers!
Nice job and very well explained. I have quite a few older brass steam which I'll need to convert to DCC in the near future. I will likely keep about 15 to 20 steam engines (out of about 50 engines) and keep the ones that are appropriate for my mountain style railroad (HO Scale) and sell the larger engines which would not be appropriate for a Colorado style mountain road. My dad used to send me in the 1970s, 1980s and 1990s a lot of trains from him attending many train shows in southern California during that time period. Again, nice job and great details which is very helpful to someone like myself who will have to convert many brass steam engines. Phil NYC / Jersey Shore Area
thanks phil! the kind words mean a lot. I know what you mean, when you look at your huge lot of trains that all still need decoders, it feels like a moutain of work ahead of you. But take it one step at a time and sure youll get it done in no time. Good luck!
@@trainman440 Thanks for the words of encouragement...I'll look forward to watching more of your videos, especially on DCC installations!... Phil NYC / Jersey Shore Area
Buying the 21 pin Wowsound decoder is such a good hack. For whatever reason, I thought you needed one of the other boards they sell (with KA) for the drop-in kits for them to work.
haha indeed! I literally just buy whatever is cheapest since I hardwire my decoders anyways. usually it ends up being the 21 pin variant. definitely makes hard wiring a little bit harder since the pins are all so close together but nothing a bit of skilled soldering practice cant fix!
@@ApartmentRR theyre always on sale. depending on what site you get them from. i bought 6 decoders all at once before the prices got jacked up. I paid $65 per decoder. these days everyones listing them for like $90.
On brass upgrades: you may have covered this in a different video but do you generally replace gearboxes on your locomotives or just use the stock gearbox? I know this depends on the model too.
Good question! Most stock gearboxes are perfectly fine. It is totally un-necessary to replace the gearbox unless its performance is not up to par to what you desire. I often will tune and modify gearboxes to run smoother and quieter, enough to be satisfied with the gearbox. That being said the only times Ive replaced gearboxes were either broken/cracked gearboxes (from select/certain ALCO brass), or ones which Im not able to make quiet, notably some PFM/United gearboxes.
Hi i was wondering if you have the link on where to get the speakers on eBay and how to make the keep alive circuit in different arrangements thanks.Russ
Hey! I cant share links here without youtube auto removing it. For speakers simply look up "28mm 2w speaker" on ebay. For the stay alive circuit look up "The DCC guy stay alive diy" on YT.
Imo TCS WOWsound has the most accurate PRR whistles, with esu coming a close second. Thats why most of my prr locos have tcs in them. and most of my nyc locos have loksound in them.
For this video I used a TCS WOW121 decoder, just bc it was the cheapest wowsound decoder on the market at the time. But you can use whatever youd like, there is no "correct" decoder :)
Correct me if I’m wrong but the 2.54mm headers are what get used for the NMRA 8-pin plugs right? I would guess they’re too large to use as external plugs unless you’re only dealing with a few wires.
@@JackOnTracks solid! buying stuff from china is slow but its so much cheaper. thats why i try to get everything a month ahead of when i actually want to work on something. to save money :)
@@michaelstrains4014 yessir! I use the 2.54mm plugs too, for wiring some of my non-dcc ready locos for an 8 pin decoder. But yes theyre too big for using as a plug. Having both 2.54mm and 1.27mm pitch connecters proves very useful :) unfortunately decoder manufacturers have switched over the new "Next18" plug which I cannot find a cheap version to buy...I swear the only reason they made the new plug style is to force people like us to buy a $10 adapter just to hardwire them >:(
TCS WOW121 steam. (aka a wowsound 21 pin decoder) Only reason I chose that one is cause its the most affordable version. But because im hardwiring it anyways, I could use just about any style of decoder, whether its got the 8pin, 9 pin or 21 pin plug.
Yep definitely good video.. I’m sure many get confused on if you had to change motor with an old open frame motors an how to deal with that .I like how some brass come with the pp motors or can motors
Great point! DCC decoders will work with both can and open frame motors. While it is true that most people will often perform a can motor upgrade during/before a dcc install, it should be noted that DCC works fine with open frame motors as long as it draws less current than what the decoder is rated for. The reason why people do the motor upgrade is:
1. convenience. you already got the loco taken apart for the install anyways, might as well upgrade the motor in the process.
2. can motors often run smoother and quieter. Skew armatures, more cores, and being manufactured more recently means can motors run better.
3. Open frame motors GENERALLY draw more current. Can motors are more efficient and draw less current. Most modern HO decoders are rated 1.5amps, which is enough to handle open frame motors, but IF your open frame draws even more then yes youll have to replace it before installing a decoder.
BUT I have seen many well performing low current open frame motors. In those few cases I dont bother replacing it. Cheers!
I do installs almost exactly the same way - notch the smokebox for the light wires, buy LEDs and connectors in bulk, add pickups to all wheels, and so on. I really appreciate the stuff I find difficult , keep alives, mounting the speaker, clear glass paste to center the LED. Now I feel confident to add sound to an identical 0-4-0j
im glad to hear, thanks for the compliment :)
Thank you. This video is just what I was looking for.
glad you found it helpful! Good luck!
Definitely should do more brass models in this format for future videos.
I prefer not doing redundant videos, but if I find more tricks to use and feel like it warrants filming another install, I definitely will!
I found a trick. I have several Sunset brass imports 0-6-0's; all but one with "Vanderbuilt" type tenders. Other that cutting the bottom out, any suggestions on a decoder install with speaker? Thanks @@trainman440
I like how you did yours, I have a key B6sb with the same slope back tender, I ended up throwing a iphone 6S speaker in there, it's not perfect but it gets the job done.
Thats smart too! I dont have any phone speakers on hand but if I did it definitely would help making the install easier ;)
Fantastic job, you are really talented.
thanks man! I try to do good work :)
Bro you are amazing. Thank you for the amazing video.
Thanks man!
Great installation! Incredible that you were able to do that with such very little space, very impressive!
thanks! It was a challenge but it went honestly very straightforward :)
Great vid, really helps me gain confidence to do DCC in Hon3 lokies
thanks! Absolutely man, I hope everyone gives DCC installs a try, that's the main point of the channel. If I can do it anyone can :)
Thanks for the video. I did a similar installation into a Sunset PRR 0-6-0 that appears to have that same tender. I chose to put the speaker (3/4" round) in the coal bunker with a thin wafer of styrofoam over it to make a coal load. I squeezed a Soundtraxx Tsunami and CurrentKeeper into the tender. It was pretty full but all fit OK.
Hello! thanks for sharing what you did. Yea putting the speaker in the coal bunker is the other option. I'll be doing that for my current project, a 4-6-6t, where there is actually ZERO space in the engine, so its gotta go in the coal bunker. It'll be a cool chance for me to give it a shot. Cheers!
Nice job and very well explained.
I have quite a few older brass steam which I'll need to convert to DCC in the near future. I will likely keep about 15 to 20 steam engines (out of about 50 engines) and keep the ones that are appropriate for my mountain style railroad (HO Scale) and sell the larger engines which would not be appropriate for a Colorado style mountain road.
My dad used to send me in the 1970s, 1980s and 1990s a lot of trains from him attending many train shows in southern California during that time period.
Again, nice job and great details which is very helpful to someone like myself who will have to convert many brass steam engines.
Phil
NYC / Jersey Shore Area
thanks phil! the kind words mean a lot. I know what you mean, when you look at your huge lot of trains that all still need decoders, it feels like a moutain of work ahead of you. But take it one step at a time and sure youll get it done in no time. Good luck!
@@trainman440 Thanks for the words of encouragement...I'll look forward to watching more of your videos, especially on DCC installations!...
Phil
NYC / Jersey Shore Area
Buying the 21 pin Wowsound decoder is such a good hack. For whatever reason, I thought you needed one of the other boards they sell (with KA) for the drop-in kits for them to work.
haha indeed! I literally just buy whatever is cheapest since I hardwire my decoders anyways. usually it ends up being the 21 pin variant. definitely makes hard wiring a little bit harder since the pins are all so close together but nothing a bit of skilled soldering practice cant fix!
@@trainman440 Do you know when they tend to be on sale?
@@ApartmentRR theyre always on sale. depending on what site you get them from. i bought 6 decoders all at once before the prices got jacked up. I paid $65 per decoder. these days everyones listing them for like $90.
Great instructive video and a neat job!
thanks! glad you enjoyed it
On brass upgrades: you may have covered this in a different video but do you generally replace gearboxes on your locomotives or just use the stock gearbox? I know this depends on the model too.
Good question! Most stock gearboxes are perfectly fine. It is totally un-necessary to replace the gearbox unless its performance is not up to par to what you desire. I often will tune and modify gearboxes to run smoother and quieter, enough to be satisfied with the gearbox. That being said the only times Ive replaced gearboxes were either broken/cracked gearboxes (from select/certain ALCO brass), or ones which Im not able to make quiet, notably some PFM/United gearboxes.
THAT is a BIG engine 😅
Hi i was wondering if you have the link on where to get the speakers on eBay and how to make the keep alive circuit in different arrangements thanks.Russ
Hey! I cant share links here without youtube auto removing it. For speakers simply look up "28mm 2w speaker" on ebay. For the stay alive circuit look up "The DCC guy stay alive diy" on YT.
Okay thank you
For PRR steam locomotives which decoder manufacturer do you think has the most accurate whistle and sounds most generally?
Imo TCS WOWsound has the most accurate PRR whistles, with esu coming a close second. Thats why most of my prr locos have tcs in them. and most of my nyc locos have loksound in them.
Where do I find the correct decoder to use?
For this video I used a TCS WOW121 decoder, just bc it was the cheapest wowsound decoder on the market at the time. But you can use whatever youd like, there is no "correct" decoder :)
@@trainman440 cool! Thank you
Do you have a link for those plugs on ebay.
Hey! Just look up "1.27mm pitch pin header" and buy some male and female rows
Correct me if I’m wrong but the 2.54mm headers are what get used for the NMRA 8-pin plugs right? I would guess they’re too large to use as external plugs unless you’re only dealing with a few wires.
Thank you my connector arrived today must of been on the slow boat from China.
Lol
@@JackOnTracks solid! buying stuff from china is slow but its so much cheaper. thats why i try to get everything a month ahead of when i actually want to work on something. to save money :)
@@michaelstrains4014 yessir! I use the 2.54mm plugs too, for wiring some of my non-dcc ready locos for an 8 pin decoder. But yes theyre too big for using as a plug. Having both 2.54mm and 1.27mm pitch connecters proves very useful :) unfortunately decoder manufacturers have switched over the new "Next18" plug which I cannot find a cheap version to buy...I swear the only reason they made the new plug style is to force people like us to buy a $10 adapter just to hardwire them >:(
What's the decoder model you put in there?
TCS WOW121 steam. (aka a wowsound 21 pin decoder) Only reason I chose that one is cause its the most affordable version. But because im hardwiring it anyways, I could use just about any style of decoder, whether its got the 8pin, 9 pin or 21 pin plug.
What decoder are you using
TCS WOW121 Steam decoder.
Thanks great videos