I think I did OK selecting my first E bike having not watched any technical videos prior to ordering. You videos are extremely helpful! I’m 70 why should the kids have all the fun….
Just to add my experience. I have a 250w motor with pedal assist as that's the road legal standard here in UK. I consume less than 6wh per mile. This is riding at about 15 mph average on roads with only small hills putting a medium amount of effort in. I weight about 65kg.
I’m finding a 500wh batt is fine for me, I ride for fun around steep hills and muddy UK conditions. And often ride around 20miles for about 2 hours (or a bit less). I do get a work out with those numbers (due to more extreme off road conditions I ride) So I would deff want a bigger batt if I wanted a lazy day.
Hello, I have a 48 volt 10 amp battery with a 500-watt Hub motor. 98% of my bike ride is done on level 2 assist about 10 miles an hour using pedaling and with the help of the motor. What I've trained myself to do over my ride, is turn the pedal assist completely off pedaling with no motor assistance. There's two benefits to this number one longer run time on the battery charge, number two or exercise. I mostly do this in the more flat sections and on slight Hills, keeping the motor assistance for steeper Hills or if I just plain feel lazy.
Very good information! I have a 14 Ah battery and it works well for me. I normally ride about 20 miles at a time and have some good sized hills. My voltage drops from 42 volts to about 37 volts by the end of the ride. I'm not sure is that is typical or not.
I'm building my own battery, thanks to your guides 😉 i've prioritized power delivery and reasonable weight. I have 80 samsung 30T cells, in a 20s4p configuration. Up to 140A continuous, 72V nominal, 12,000mAh. Not the greatest range, i'm expecting 12 miles or so, but the bike will be very fast.
Hi Micah! Great videos and information! I have your DIY Lithium Battery book and am learning a lot though it’s taking me awhile to wrap my brain around it. I hope to build my own Powerwall someday. I appreciate your enthusiasm and contribution to clean energy adoption! Keep up the good work, man!
These calculations we tries the same, thank you for supporting the calculations. Now we have only issue how to maintain speed as with battery level going down, the RPM starts degrading.
I am really enjoying your channel. As a Canadian it is always nice to hear the option you always seem to give with the metric system! Thank you for that!!
It would be helpful to share with us how you determine your 25Wh/mi and 15Wh/mi numbers. That way we can do that for ourselves and be more accurate in determining our own battery capacity needs.
What I've done is have my bike display battery voltage instead of percentage (which can be horribly inaccurate). I record my starting voltage, and my ending voltage after the ride. I then use a voltage chart for my battery type (52v) to determine the amount of charge consumed on the ride, then knowing the capacity of the battery (17Ah in my case) I can take 52v x 17Ah to arrive at 884Wh potential. Using the starting and ending voltages I can determine what percentage of that was used, lets say 17%, and knowing the distance I rode, lets say 10 miles, I can determine that 17% of 884Wh = 150Wh and 150Wh / 10 Miles = 15Wh/mile.
My new battery is unitpackpower triangle 52v 28ah samsung 35e cell and it's amazing. With bafang bbshd and 3 inch tyre I get around 45 miles with full throttle. I wouldn't consider a smaller battery unless I have to fit it in a dual suspension bike frame.
I have built one of these chain drive ebikes . They aren't very difficult but you do need the right kind of bike or else you will have to modify the motor bracket. I installed a 250 watt motor on a cruiser bike and it goes about 15 mph on the flat road. These kits are a little more difficult to install compared to a hub motor but it is hard to beat the price. I spent about $300 on my ebike. The bike was $93, the motor kit $75 and the battery $80. I currently have 425 miles on the bike so it is fairly durable too.
@@jeffholmes9483 I wanted to buy same kit you have but the 450w for my son so I have capability later to go faster if I use a smaller battery like 24v will it slow it down or will it not work with 36v controller?
@@bignuts9198 Most of the places that I have seen selling this kits have a motor specification sheet. It is my understanding that the main difference between the 24v and 36v motor is the gear reduction in them. I don't want to tell you what to do but basically increasing the voltage will increase top speed. For example i bought a use Ezip scooter for my son to use at college and it ran on 24v lead acid batteries. I replaced them with a 36v lithium battery and got about a 50% increase in speed. It is actually a little more than 50% because of the weight reduction of the the batteries. His top speed was right at 13mph and with the lithium 36v pack it is right at 24mph. On a side note that is scary fast on that little scooter. I didn't change the controller or the motor just the battery. The way I might approach your situation is to buy the 24v 450w motor and run it stock for your son but when you want more speed just buy a new 36v controller and 36v battery. I originally bought the 36v 250w motor but have recently ordered the 24v 450w to put on my ebike to see if it will increase the top speed. I'm still waiting for it to come in. As for the controllers they are cheap, I bought a backup 500w controller for $12 on Amazon. Most of these kits use a YK31c controller and they are easy to find. I hope this has helped. I will warn you, make sure you choose a bike the motor bracket will fit on. I made a cardboard template of the motor bracket and went to the store holding it up to any bike i liked until I found one that would work. I still had to modify the bracket to get the chain to line up.
Great overview. My experience has been similar, my numbers are in agreement. A few things to add about battery size, or more specifically why I believe it is important to oversize your battery: -Range anxiety... Range anxiety is a very real thing with electric vehicles, it really takes away from the very enjoyable experience of whizzing about on your ebike. Getting stuck far away from your destination without power sucks donkeys, trust me. -You don't have to recharge every day, or after every ride. Even though it is simple to hook up your charger it can become annoying to do all the time. -You never have to pedal to get somewhere if you don't feel like it. You don't have to worry about riding efficiently, you can haul ass. Nice to be able to do that if you are late for work for instance. -Life expectancy of your battery. The more power you pull from your battery relative to it's output capability the more stress you put on it, reducing it's overall lifetime. A larger battery also allows you to not fully charge or discharge your battery(very important for li-ion batteries), which could potentially more than double the life expectancy. -Higher power output for longer periods of time. Your battery voltage drops as the battery discharges, with a larger battery you can spend longer in the higher voltage range(haul ass for longer). This is also better for the motor, motors heat up more at low voltages at a given power output. -Less voltage drop. Voltage drop sucks. -You can upgrade to a more powerful motor without having to upgrade your battery(assuming the new motor operates at a similar voltage). This all adds up to more enjoyment and pretty significant long term savings. The only downsides are greater up front cost and added weight. But even if you double the battery weight it's a pretty insignificant increase in overall weight compared to the weight of the bike and rider. Let's say you got from a 48 volt 10 amp hour battery to a 48 volt 20 amp hour battery, double the range with about a 6 lb increase in weight, low and centered on the bike, barely noticeable. Let's say the rider and bike weigh 200 lbs, a 6 lb increase would be 3%. I'm sure I missed a couple points, but do I even need to go on?
Agreed! I think we're going to start seeing more dual pack setups with one large integrated and a removable smaller one. The main reason for a larger pack for me is their ability to better handle the higher voltage sag when pulling 1500+ watts, but too large and you're just carrying dead weight.
I almost forgot the most important point. If you plan for a certain mileage capability then over time the capacity of the battery will drop off. It will drop to 80% more or less after 500 to 1000 full cycles, depending on how you treat it. If you oversize your battery it will do what you need it to do for WAY longer. If you double your battery capacity it could maintain a usable capacity practically forever. That's assuming a quality pack. And for the uninitiated, lead acid batteries are a horrible choice for ebikes. My first one was with 4 lead acid and they didn't last long and was dangerously heavy.
I use my Bosch mid drive 250w motor class 1 e-bike for touring. This is a European spec bike so the motor cuts out at 16 mph. I usually stay on the eco mode unless a lot of hills. I am a cyclist after all.... I get around 60 -65 miles per battery. I have a 400 and a 500 Bosch battery. I carry an extra battery. So I have over 100 miles of range. My standard daily distance is 60 miles. I also tow a trailer.
I'm Learning so mutch from you.i thank you so so mutch. I'm fixing to get ME well a walmart bike. And build my very first ebike. It's you along with others I see here on RUclips that inspires me and gives me the knowledge to do. Thank you so mutch.
I have a small 384 Wh RC lipo pack I use when I'm trail riding in the hills, or when I go shopping etc, it's light and compact enough that I carry it in a small backpack. I have another 1000 Wh pack I mount on the bike for long rides, mostly I use he small pack.
Good sharing sir. I know nothing about batteries and electrical stuff, after finish reading your DIY lithium batteries book, it helps me understand lots of things. I guess i would buy all your books collection
I run a 26 inch fat tire bike with 2 hub motors and 2 batteries 36v 12 ah. I run pedal assist all the way cranking out pretty fast except for throttling down hill. I am 6ft 250lbs and get a really good 10 mile round trip work out with both batteries at about 40% full when I return. I can’t imagine ever going back to a regular mountain bike again. BTW; The DIY lithium battery book is worth getting just for the diagrams. Thanks
To convert Amp hours & volts to Watt hours.... Ah x V = Wh 10 amp hour 48 volt pack would be...480 watt hours. Actually, a bit more since nominal voltage would be 52 or so, but u get the idea.
Never enough battery if are a leisure rider. I regular ride 100km+ all on throttle and love my DIY 21s 18p or 60+Ah. Thanks to DIY Lithium Batteries, that was able to build that monster pack. Thanks again Micah.
Hi! Really good channel! I saw that you used the Swytch-kit on you bike in the video. I was thinking of getting that but I have between 11-13km single way to work. Can't decide between the ECO (180wh) or Pro (250wh) or maybe something else, it seems that if I get a conversion kit and fix it myself I will get a bigger battery that is cheaper but it's easier to take the Swytch kit with you if you pop into a store. How would you rate the Swytch? Great video, thanks! Edit: Would you say 35 km is correct? With you calculations is more like 20km
i'm thinking main battery that the down tube envelops and extra battery that attaches on top the down tube - to keep the center of mass lower. front and rear motors. enclosed gearbox - pinion style my dream snow bike would include these items and more.
Thanks a lot man! I'm planning a long range ebike, with like 150km range or so, on throttle at 40kmph , these calculations will definitely help me a lot! I'll be making a custom battery with 500 18650 cells 20s25p rated at 2900mah each. :) I plan on doing long road trips with it to hill stations around 300km away from where I live. Batteries are rated 3C, so even a 1C charging should charge it within an hour, when we stop for food or something
Hard to do. I guess we'd need to find a way to standardize the testing somehow and separate the data? My range tests have been really basic - fully charge it and ride normally until bms lvc cuts the motor then analyze Strava gpx results. I think if you use a watt meter or something it might be able to separate the throttle from pas data but I'm not sure.
Good video I’m 250 lbs, riding on flat ground, over the first 300 miles I have averaged 3o miles per charge. I have not tried throttle only on my Lectric xp, but based on your video I should expect to get 15 miles on throttle only. I’m also doing mostly pas 2 with some minor pas 3. Does that sound right to you?
His calculation is based on experience, so it would be as close as possible to the real world situation. I found out his calculation is on the pessimistic side because I got higher mileage up to 10% in my experience, and that's a pretty good thing.
Thank you for giving these general rule of thumb estimates. I am a big guy getting my first ebike in a few weeks that is equipped with dual batteries, so this will help me estimate when I may leave the second battery at home to save a little weight.
Second that! I'd love to know if there's a way to calculate how much power or voltage would burn out a motor. I'm testing a Bafang Ultra at 52v 1500w and it gets really hot. Some people are running these things at 60 or 72v though so how can we figure this out the easy way?
@@eBikeaholic I'm currently running my 250watt motor at 48v 20 amps. But Micah has said in previous videos and on his website that although a motor may be rated at 250watt by the manufacturer, it can likely handle a lot more. So far no problems with mine as far as I can tell..
I live in the foothills on the south side of Phoenix and weigh 160 pounds. Using PAS 2 and 3, I go 25 miles on a charge. My battery is 500 WH. If I creep up the big hill, my current is 13 amps vs 20 when I max it out. This gets me more range. In order to hopefully get a longer life from my battery, I now charge when I get below 50% rather than 15%.Range is therefore not a valid calculation anymore.
Helpful video, thanks. It would also be helpful to know what percentage of discharge optimizes the number of watt hours someone could get out of a battery its lifetime. On my sailboat the sweet spot for AGM batteries turned out to be between 50 and 80% of the capacity of the bank. discharging the batteries below 50% lowered the number of watt hours ovee the life of the battery. over 80% got into the realm of diminishing returns on the charging system (diesel engine). But ebike batteries my not behave the same way. Would it be better to have a much larger batter and discharge it less between charges? Would that be more economical in the long run?
Based on the Grintech ebike simulator, and some nominal values, I was able to get a VERY GENERALIZED NOT ENTIRELY ACCURATE, but general battery energy usage per mile estimation for Hub Motor ebikes. Without throttle assist, on FLAT GROUND, meaning no inclines or declines, in no traffic: 25wh per mile at 20mph, 32wh per mile at 25mph, 45wh per mile at 30mph, and 60wh per mile at 35miles an hour.
I appreciate these baseline numbers to understand kw/hr usage. Do they change significantly from a R&M Supercharger vs Specialized Como 5.0-or trail vs commuter bike?
For paddle assist range, do you know the difference between cadence sensor vs torque sensor? Some manufacturer claim the torque sensor could increase the range dramatically. What is your experience? Thx
There is no difference. People just tend to pedal harder with a torque sensor because that is the only way to get full assist power. With a cadence sensor you just have to spin the pedals around lightly to get full power from the motor. I would go with the latter because you can avoid sweating as much.
When you build battery packs, why don't you use insulating fiber washers on the positive ends of the batteries? would it be better to use them or it really doesn't matter?
My 16 incher Fiido D2S weights 21 to 22 kg. It has a 6-month old 36V × 7.8Ah battery and 250W rear hub motor. It covers 38.4 km of paved road which is 75 percent flat, 5 percent 20 degree inclined uphill in 1hr 30min. I use pedal assist only, no throttling. I weight 68-70kg. It seems 12W/mi or 7.3W/km is my factor.
Great video, thanks! I have a question, I bought an E-bike from AMAZON and it uses a 36v 10.4Ah battery, can I use a higher powerful battery such as a 36v 13Ah battery or higher as long as I keep using the same 36V?
Hi Micah, really enjoy the videos. I notice you have the Swytch setup in the background. My daughter lives in a hilly area (Jerusalem). She only weighs about 50 kg. She does NOT ride quickly. She is concerned about taking public transport in the current climate. Would you recommend the Swytch kit for someone who had an 8 -10 km commute? Thanks earle orenstein
how to convert wh to amphour? all the batteries i see are in AmpHour. ok. never mind. i think i take the Voltage then multiply the AH to get the WH you were talking about
Hi Micah, any chance you could do a piece on connecting 2 batteries in parallel using a setup to balance the batteries. Presumably the batteries would need to be the same voltage but this setup would allow different AmpHrs to be connected, remain balanced and improve capacity. Many thanks.
Here in UK we are limited to max 250 watt motors with sh..ty low ah small batteries. All the UK ads tell you how marvelous the shiny bell is or seat comfort or tyres used conveniently missing the useful stuff
I have as 37v 9.6a BionX battery that charges to 41.5v. On the Grin Technologies web site they indicate you can greatly extend the battery life by only charging to 80% of max. Can you think of a cost effective way to only charge my battery to 80% using the standard 37v charger. The chart from Grin Technologies indicates I would want the charger to cut off at about 40.5v. The BionX charger uses a 4 pin XLR Male connector. Can I simply get a Male and female XLR 4 pin connectors to build a short extension jumper with a resistor inline that would limit charging to 40.5v if the jumper is used and would charge normally to the 41.5v if the jumper is not used? All feedback is appreciated. The purchase of a satiator seems expensive.
Wind hills and tire pressure are the biggest issues , if you can run 100psi tires do it it will give you about an extra 5 miles or more. If you can avoid hills even better . Wind will kill your battery very fast
That's cool, so I should expect around the 100 mile mark maybe slightly over for my 60v nominal 1,500 watt bike. The battery is 60v×20amp=1,500wh. I won't be going over 15mph so I'm going to see around the 100 mile area from it maybe slightly more.
Hi, I think other! 1. How much range do you want? 2. Where do you drive? Flat terrain oder mountain! 3. How much Watt have your engine? 3. How many support do you need? Level 1 or 5? 4. What is your weight? 5. How often do you want to charge? So my decision is on a 250V 24V on a 36V system : 1000W are fine for me...
You need as much battery as you can afford. It's never too much battery. I never hear from peoples "I wish I have a smaller battery", but usually peoples want to have a chance to remove and charge battery out of ebike or scooter for swap(delivery guys for example) and have second battery.
Actually I have too big a battery, no question. It was my first build, and I got sucked into that "well, if I spend a little more I could get that extra amount" cycle. Now I have this giant, heavy battery that I never use up on a ride, looks like an enormous blob on the bike, and is totally awkward to carry around when I remove it at my destination. Now that I know my style of ebike riding (ave speed, power usage, etc) I know that a smaller (lighter, more compact) battery would work better for me.
Truth, we'll definitely start seeing more dual battery pack setups like wattwagons or r&m - eBikes are starting to be viewed as transportation vehicles.
Hi Micah, just wanted to say that I've been watching your videos for years and I appreciate you so much. Have you ever covered sizing spoke lenghts? I'm trying to build a Schwinn Stingray with a hub motor and I have no clue how to start with the 20" wheel
After creating a battery pack with over voltage on that motor sticker design (36 to lets say 52) has anybody made a voltage regular for the controller to bring the voltage back down to the original motor sticker design, wouldn't this make the battery last longer and the amperage draw down to the low end of the battery capacity have a steadier performance. I'm looking for long rides using higher voltage but not increasing motor RPM's. Would this make the battery last longer.
What will the formula be to calculate the amp Hour on a 36v 10A lipo battery?, planning on building like the cheap electric bIke that you built with a brushed motor. BTW, your videos are awesome!
What is the proportion of eBikes with removable batteries to those with built-in batteries? At least with a removable battery there is the option of carrying a spare battery. Is this normally an issue?
Is there a formula for determining the watt hours of a given battery? Batteries on Amazon state the amp hours, but usually not the watt hours of the battery.
Great explanation! I'm working on a range test vid for my DIY 1500w Bafang Ultra and not sure if I can explain all the math as well as you... can I just refer them come ask you? lol I tested at 250w, 750w, and 1500w PAS. So far it consumes between 27-62 Wh/mi and gets top speeds of 29-41mph. I just upgraded it from single speed to Nexus 3 speed though - will need to do some more testing.
Please help. I am a 77 yr old 227 lbs woman with health issues that needs an ebike with pedal assist for just neighborhood (abt 3-5 blocks) 3 places. What size battery would you recommend? Bare minimum would do. Just because walking is difficult. Very little inclines. Thank you so much. God bless, stay safe.
How do you know if you can fit a bigger battery into your bike and it will accept it? I get an average of about 16 miles per charge give or take according to Hills in different things but I would love to get about 25 miles procharged. Is there a way to go from a 36 volt battery to a 48 volt, and is it based upon the make of the bike?
I know the bikes that have the automatic motor shut off when you apply the brakes seems to go further than the ones that don’t. I have a problem with the pedal assist it seems that on any mode except for mode 1 the pedal assist seems to outpace me meaning I can’t keep up with the bike motor. My battery is at 1300 W 48 V battery the motor is 1000 W motor and a bike tops 40+ miles an hour if you’re riding on a long flat Roads…The battery is an anklet battery….The battery is actually more than a kit by $20
I have a couple questions. I'm going to be rebuilding my current battery which is a 3or4p13s 18650 3500mah, to an 8p7s. Is 8p7s to much capacity? Or should I go with a 7p8s instead? Or either? My next question is, I have 24-3500mah cells and 6-3200 mAh cells that have a max output of 20amps but the 3500 cells don't list the max output amps! Can I run the 6-20 amp cells in a 7p, using 1 of the 3500mah cells? Or am I better off not using the 20amp cells at all in the build?
Normally, when i buy a new ebike, i will divide by 2 the range whatever the manufacturer claims. The range the manufacturer cliams; is usually based on the most energy efficient way of riding the bike,aka impractical daily use(constant flat terrains, lowest gear/slowest speed(slower than 10km/h), no added weight( don't tell me you're not gonna carry any weight, not to mention additional bike rack and basket))
Hi Micah - Thanks for this video, very useful to help figure out the battery size needed. Did you ever get those parts for your budget $182 project? Looking forward to that one.
Also obviously 2 motors is twice the power but is it better to speed the money on a better battery to reduce voltage sag on hills or to have more motor power?
Thanks for putting these videos out. Does the electric motor size have any bearing on the calculations. I would like start my e-bike experience on the cheap, so I planning on buying a chain drive conversion kit. Are they OK for a start, and would your 15-25 watt hours per mile still apply. Thanks, again.
Thanks for the video... But I think I may be more confused now than I was before. Battery packs are rated by voltage and Amp Hours. How do I convert Wh to Ah?
Peace and Blessings Micah!, Funny you should be discussing battery power and how much you need. Lol It's been a minute since I've been calling as they say in the South. Lol Been very busy on my second build. A few highlights: Mongoose Dolomite 26x4" (w/reinforced welds) a customized rear hub motor (5000w 100A )designed to reach 129km/85mph from SURINGMAX. Fine manufacturers of E-Motors for bikes, scooters, and motorcycle. You just tell them what you want and it's done. As a result I had to get insurance, and register it with DMV as a "E-Scooter. To ease the registration w/DMV I had the manufacturer stamp a label on the side of the motor that reads: "E-Scooter Motor" Lol. In fact they never look at it. I showed my virtual insurance card and gave the serial numbers for the Mongoose and the motor and it was a done deal! Question the 48v battery left over from my first build, I plan on series connecting to the 96v. More volts more power I've heard you say. Lol. The controller is rated at 100amps. Will this be safe to do? I also built a 8'x6' bike trailer w/ball hitch coupler and 3' side walls and tandem axles from a DIY kit from WIKEBIKE in Canada. Fine makers of bike trailers!! Prefabbed or DIY kits of various models. Stay tune for further updates and photos of finished project!!
This is the video I have been waiting for. Could have done a bit more on covering Watts andVolts of batteries to volts and Watts of controllers to the Volts and amps of motors.
dont burn your brain, that part realy does not matter. well iv never worried about it. you need to worry about volts and amps. volts is your power amps is how fast the volts move. more amps more power more heat, not always more top speed and less distance.
@@ATARI-DAVE-73 yes but from what I understand the volts of the battery should equal the motor although the amps just depends on how long it will run under a variable load when you are talking about a bike or can you use a battery with less volts than the motor and its in danger of burning up (literally) or if you use a battery with higher volts than the motor it may not work because the controller ma not be rated for it. So the exact rules is what I am after.
@@SpeKterDesigns if your kit is 48v 20amp, then battery should be 48v 25amp i would go 30amp. if your making a kit your self or updating controller then check watt rating, its on the controller. i learn dis on here a 😷👍🏼
Hi, I have a mini ebike for my son and it has a 36v 4.4AAh battery. For some reason it would not charge up anymore. I’m thinking of replacing them with a higher capacity battery pack. Will a 36v 20Ah work without changing the controller? Thank you
I think I did OK selecting my first E bike having not watched any technical videos prior to ordering. You videos are extremely helpful! I’m 70 why should the kids have all the fun….
😭 go grandpapa 😂
Bless you .
Amazing, hopefully you're still riding around at 72 now!🙏
Just to add my experience. I have a 250w motor with pedal assist as that's the road legal standard here in UK. I consume less than 6wh per mile. This is riding at about 15 mph average on roads with only small hills putting a medium amount of effort in. I weight about 65kg.
I’m finding a 500wh batt is fine for me, I ride for fun around steep hills and muddy UK conditions. And often ride around 20miles for about 2 hours (or a bit less).
I do get a work out with those numbers (due to more extreme off road conditions I ride)
So I would deff want a bigger batt if I wanted a lazy day.
Thanks! This information was just what I was looking for, subscribed.
Ross
Hello, I have a 48 volt 10 amp battery with a 500-watt Hub motor. 98% of my bike ride is done on level 2 assist about 10 miles an hour using pedaling and with the help of the motor. What I've trained myself to do over my ride, is turn the pedal assist completely off pedaling with no motor assistance. There's two benefits to this number one longer run time on the battery charge, number two or exercise. I mostly do this in the more flat sections and on slight Hills, keeping the motor assistance for steeper Hills or if I just plain feel lazy.
I do the same but just use the throttle when needed for hills. It gets me 30 miles on a charge most of the time given my Terrain
Very good information! I have a 14 Ah battery and it works well for me. I normally ride about 20 miles at a time and have some good sized hills. My voltage drops from 42 volts to about 37 volts by the end of the ride. I'm not sure is that is typical or not.
That is about right.
Great talk as always. I’m building a peddle assist bike and a electric motorcycle, your talks and books have been very helpful.
I'm building my own battery, thanks to your guides 😉 i've prioritized power delivery and reasonable weight. I have 80 samsung 30T cells, in a 20s4p configuration. Up to 140A continuous, 72V nominal, 12,000mAh. Not the greatest range, i'm expecting 12 miles or so, but the bike will be very fast.
Good luck with that battery caps are stainless . Solder won't stick with a solder iron . Learn how to weld !
@@onetailgunner all the cells are spot welded, yes.
Hi Micah! Great videos and information! I have your DIY Lithium Battery book and am learning a lot though it’s taking me awhile to wrap my brain around it. I hope to build my own Powerwall someday. I appreciate your enthusiasm and contribution to clean energy adoption! Keep up the good work, man!
These calculations we tries the same, thank you for supporting the calculations. Now we have only issue how to maintain speed as with battery level going down, the RPM starts degrading.
You could use a step up converter to keep voltage constant?
I am really enjoying your channel. As a Canadian it is always nice to hear the option you always seem to give with the metric system! Thank you for that!!
Funny how he gives his weight in Kg.
I have watched your videos for about a year or so, and have learn about ebikes mostly from your channel. Thanks.
It would be helpful to share with us how you determine your 25Wh/mi and 15Wh/mi numbers. That way we can do that for ourselves and be more accurate in determining our own battery capacity needs.
What I've done is have my bike display battery voltage instead of percentage (which can be horribly inaccurate). I record my starting voltage, and my ending voltage after the ride. I then use a voltage chart for my battery type (52v) to determine the amount of charge consumed on the ride, then knowing the capacity of the battery (17Ah in my case) I can take 52v x 17Ah to arrive at 884Wh potential. Using the starting and ending voltages I can determine what percentage of that was used, lets say 17%, and knowing the distance I rode, lets say 10 miles, I can determine that 17% of 884Wh = 150Wh and 150Wh / 10 Miles = 15Wh/mile.
My new battery is unitpackpower triangle 52v 28ah samsung 35e cell and it's amazing. With bafang bbshd and 3 inch tyre I get around 45 miles with full throttle. I wouldn't consider a smaller battery unless I have to fit it in a dual suspension bike frame.
Where i can buy your same specs of battery, plaese any details on how to buy online and price. 😊
wasn't there a budget chaindrive ebike in the works ? and the motorcycle conversion ,been wondering about that cool project .
I have built one of these chain drive ebikes . They aren't very difficult but you do need the right kind of bike or else you will have to modify the motor bracket. I installed a 250 watt motor on a cruiser bike and it goes about 15 mph on the flat road. These kits are a little more difficult to install compared to a hub motor but it is hard to beat the price. I spent about $300 on my ebike. The bike was $93, the motor kit $75 and the battery $80. I currently have 425 miles on the bike so it is fairly durable too.
@@jeffholmes9483 I wanted to buy same kit you have but the 450w for my son so I have capability later to go faster if I use a smaller battery like 24v will it slow it down or will it not work with 36v controller?
@@bignuts9198 Most of the places that I have seen selling this kits have a motor specification sheet. It is my understanding that the main difference between the 24v and 36v motor is the gear reduction in them. I don't want to tell you what to do but basically increasing the voltage will increase top speed. For example i bought a use Ezip scooter for my son to use at college and it ran on 24v lead acid batteries. I replaced them with a 36v lithium battery and got about a 50% increase in speed. It is actually a little more than 50% because of the weight reduction of the the batteries. His top speed was right at 13mph and with the lithium 36v pack it is right at 24mph. On a side note that is scary fast on that little scooter. I didn't change the controller or the motor just the battery. The way I might approach your situation is to buy the 24v 450w motor and run it stock for your son but when you want more speed just buy a new 36v controller and 36v battery. I originally bought the 36v 250w motor but have recently ordered the 24v 450w to put on my ebike to see if it will increase the top speed. I'm still waiting for it to come in. As for the controllers they are cheap, I bought a backup 500w controller for $12 on Amazon. Most of these kits use a YK31c controller and they are easy to find. I hope this has helped. I will warn you, make sure you choose a bike the motor bracket will fit on. I made a cardboard template of the motor bracket and went to the store holding it up to any bike i liked until I found one that would work. I still had to modify the bracket to get the chain to line up.
@@bignuts9198 Here is a link to a video I made reviewing the kit I installed. ruclips.net/video/kY0gLNvRKS8/видео.html
@@jeffholmes9483 Thank you sir
Great overview. My experience has been similar, my numbers are in agreement. A few things to add about battery size, or more specifically why I believe it is important to oversize your battery:
-Range anxiety... Range anxiety is a very real thing with electric vehicles, it really takes away from the very enjoyable experience of whizzing about on your ebike. Getting stuck far away from your destination without power sucks donkeys, trust me.
-You don't have to recharge every day, or after every ride. Even though it is simple to hook up your charger it can become annoying to do all the time.
-You never have to pedal to get somewhere if you don't feel like it. You don't have to worry about riding efficiently, you can haul ass. Nice to be able to do that if you are late for work for instance.
-Life expectancy of your battery. The more power you pull from your battery relative to it's output capability the more stress you put on it, reducing it's overall lifetime. A larger battery also allows you to not fully charge or discharge your battery(very important for li-ion batteries), which could potentially more than double the life expectancy.
-Higher power output for longer periods of time. Your battery voltage drops as the battery discharges, with a larger battery you can spend longer in the higher voltage range(haul ass for longer). This is also better for the motor, motors heat up more at low voltages at a given power output.
-Less voltage drop. Voltage drop sucks.
-You can upgrade to a more powerful motor without having to upgrade your battery(assuming the new motor operates at a similar voltage).
This all adds up to more enjoyment and pretty significant long term savings. The only downsides are greater up front cost and added weight. But even if you double the battery weight it's a pretty insignificant increase in overall weight compared to the weight of the bike and rider. Let's say you got from a 48 volt 10 amp hour battery to a 48 volt 20 amp hour battery, double the range with about a 6 lb increase in weight, low and centered on the bike, barely noticeable. Let's say the rider and bike weigh 200 lbs, a 6 lb increase would be 3%.
I'm sure I missed a couple points, but do I even need to go on?
Good comments! I agree that bigger is always better (Unless space and weight are a concern).
Agreed! I think we're going to start seeing more dual pack setups with one large integrated and a removable smaller one. The main reason for a larger pack for me is their ability to better handle the higher voltage sag when pulling 1500+ watts, but too large and you're just carrying dead weight.
I almost forgot the most important point. If you plan for a certain mileage capability then over time the capacity of the battery will drop off. It will drop to 80% more or less after 500 to 1000 full cycles, depending on how you treat it. If you oversize your battery it will do what you need it to do for WAY longer. If you double your battery capacity it could maintain a usable capacity practically forever. That's assuming a quality pack. And for the uninitiated, lead acid batteries are a horrible choice for ebikes. My first one was with 4 lead acid and they didn't last long and was dangerously heavy.
Really good comment
Range anxiety is a thing and I experienced it quite a bit in my first EV but my eBike has pedals so at least I can still keep going :)
I use my Bosch mid drive 250w motor class 1 e-bike for touring. This is a European spec bike so the motor cuts out at 16 mph. I usually stay on the eco mode unless a lot of hills. I am a cyclist after all.... I get around 60 -65 miles per battery. I have a 400 and a 500 Bosch battery. I carry an extra battery. So I have over 100 miles of range. My standard daily distance is 60 miles. I also tow a trailer.
I'm Learning so mutch from you.i thank you so so mutch. I'm fixing to get ME well a walmart bike. And build my very first ebike. It's you along with others I see here on RUclips that inspires me and gives me the knowledge to do. Thank you so mutch.
I have a small 384 Wh RC lipo pack I use when I'm trail riding in the hills, or when I go shopping etc, it's light and compact enough that I carry it in a small backpack. I have another 1000 Wh pack I mount on the bike for long rides, mostly I use he small pack.
Good sharing sir. I know nothing about batteries and electrical stuff, after finish reading your DIY lithium batteries book, it helps me understand lots of things. I guess i would buy all your books collection
You don't want to discharge your battery too low so you should add a margin. Usually the ESC's already include a small margin to prevent battery life.
Always interesting and informative vids. Thanks, 76 and still pedaling (with assist)
I run a 26 inch fat tire bike with 2 hub motors and 2 batteries 36v 12 ah. I run pedal assist all the way cranking out pretty fast except for throttling down hill. I am 6ft 250lbs and get a really good 10 mile round trip work out with both batteries at about 40% full when I return. I can’t imagine ever going back to a regular mountain bike again. BTW; The DIY lithium battery book is worth getting just for the diagrams. Thanks
These are very instructive love the information I am in the process of creating a fat tire 48/ 1500 AWD ebike. Thanks for all the great knowledge.
Nice, sounds like a fun build!
Same here... waiting for the stuff now to arrive from Ali-express.
To convert Amp hours & volts to Watt hours.... Ah x V = Wh
10 amp hour 48 volt pack would be...480 watt hours. Actually, a bit more since nominal voltage would be 52 or so, but u get the idea.
Gotta love algebra! It is a pretty simple equation, but only after you play with it a few times.
Nominal voltage of a 48v LiIon battery would be 13 x 3.7V or 48.1V.
51.8V would be a 14S pack.
Never enough battery if are a leisure rider. I regular ride 100km+ all on throttle and love my DIY 21s 18p or 60+Ah. Thanks to DIY Lithium Batteries, that was able to build that monster pack. Thanks again Micah.
21s ? is that 76v?
dam, what was the weight of it?
FatAss David Yeah 75.6v=3.6 x18. I’ve never put pack on the scales does what I want it to do, go far and at reasonable speed.
Interesting, I'm thinking of swapping the 500w hub motor for a 750w of same hub. Working out the pros and cons.
Thanks, Micah. Good video. I love the way you keep things simple for relative noobs. We gotta do whatever we can to get more folks edumacated!
Hi! Really good channel! I saw that you used the Swytch-kit on you bike in the video. I was thinking of getting that but I have between 11-13km single way to work. Can't decide between the ECO (180wh) or Pro (250wh) or maybe something else, it seems that if I get a conversion kit and fix it myself I will get a bigger battery that is cheaper but it's easier to take the Swytch kit with you if you pop into a store. How would you rate the Swytch? Great video, thanks!
Edit: Would you say 35 km is correct? With you calculations is more like 20km
i'm thinking main battery that the down tube envelops and extra battery that attaches on top the down tube - to keep the center of mass lower.
front and rear motors.
enclosed gearbox - pinion style
my dream snow bike would include these items and more.
Great channel I just finished 1500w mountain Bike conversion super happy with it ,and could not have done it without your channels help cheers mate !!
Is a 13amp battery ok for 1500w mountain bike ?
@3:20, math does not add up, 15Wh/mi x 20 mi = 300 Wh battery, did you count extra 50 Wh for some kind of loss or is it just an error?
Thanks a lot man! I'm planning a long range ebike, with like 150km range or so, on throttle at 40kmph , these calculations will definitely help me a lot! I'll be making a custom battery with 500 18650 cells 20s25p rated at 2900mah each. :) I plan on doing long road trips with it to hill stations around 300km away from where I live. Batteries are rated 3C, so even a 1C charging should charge it within an hour, when we stop for food or something
Post a video of it when your done. Would like to see.
Thank you for all your awesome information! I so appreciate that you no longer use that annoying background music while you talk.
How would you go about figuring a combo of throttle and pedal? Be well and stay safe.
Hard to do. I guess we'd need to find a way to standardize the testing somehow and separate the data? My range tests have been really basic - fully charge it and ride normally until bms lvc cuts the motor then analyze Strava gpx results. I think if you use a watt meter or something it might be able to separate the throttle from pas data but I'm not sure.
Good video I’m 250 lbs, riding on flat ground, over the first 300 miles I have averaged 3o miles per charge. I have not tried throttle only on my Lectric xp, but based on your video I should expect to get 15 miles on throttle only. I’m also doing mostly pas 2 with some minor pas 3. Does that sound right to you?
Hey mate. Would your calculations be based on 100% efficiency, or have you taken into account some losses?
Thanks.
His calculation is based on experience, so it would be as close as possible to the real world situation. I found out his calculation is on the pessimistic side because I got higher mileage up to 10% in my experience, and that's a pretty good thing.
Thank you for giving these general rule of thumb estimates. I am a big guy getting my first ebike in a few weeks that is equipped with dual batteries, so this will help me estimate when I may leave the second battery at home to save a little weight.
Hey Micah, could you do an in depth video on overvolting ebikes? Thanks
Second that! I'd love to know if there's a way to calculate how much power or voltage would burn out a motor. I'm testing a Bafang Ultra at 52v 1500w and it gets really hot. Some people are running these things at 60 or 72v though so how can we figure this out the easy way?
@@eBikeaholic I'm currently running my 250watt motor at 48v 20 amps. But Micah has said in previous videos and on his website that although a motor may be rated at 250watt by the manufacturer, it can likely handle a lot more. So far no problems with mine as far as I can tell..
I live in the foothills on the south side of Phoenix and weigh 160 pounds. Using PAS 2 and 3, I go 25 miles on a charge. My battery is 500 WH. If I creep up the big hill, my current is 13 amps vs 20 when I max it out. This gets me more range. In order to hopefully get a longer life from my battery, I now charge when I get below 50% rather than 15%.Range is therefore not a valid calculation anymore.
Im planning on purchasing an ebike. You're videos have been very helpful. Thanks, and looking forward to the next one.
Helpful video, thanks. It would also be helpful to know what percentage of discharge optimizes the number of watt hours someone could get out of a battery its lifetime. On my sailboat the sweet spot for AGM batteries turned out to be between 50 and 80% of the capacity of the bank. discharging the batteries below 50% lowered the number of watt hours ovee the life of the battery. over 80% got into the realm of diminishing returns on the charging system (diesel engine). But ebike batteries my not behave the same way. Would it be better to have a much larger batter and discharge it less between charges? Would that be more economical in the long run?
you speak very well, and your a great teacher..your so easy to understand, thanks bro.
Very informative in selecting battery strength. I enjoy your videos.
Based on the Grintech ebike simulator, and some nominal values, I was able to get a VERY GENERALIZED NOT ENTIRELY ACCURATE, but general battery energy usage per mile estimation for Hub Motor ebikes.
Without throttle assist, on FLAT GROUND, meaning no inclines or declines, in no traffic:
25wh per mile at 20mph, 32wh per mile at 25mph, 45wh per mile at 30mph, and 60wh per mile at 35miles an hour.
Thank you so much for the education. I have been so confused about batteries and information that I really appreciate your videos.
I appreciate these baseline numbers to understand kw/hr usage. Do they change significantly from a R&M Supercharger vs Specialized Como 5.0-or trail vs commuter bike?
For paddle assist range, do you know the difference between cadence sensor vs torque sensor? Some manufacturer claim the torque sensor could increase the range dramatically. What is your experience? Thx
There is no difference. People just tend to pedal harder with a torque sensor because that is the only way to get full assist power. With a cadence sensor you just have to spin the pedals around lightly to get full power from the motor. I would go with the latter because you can avoid sweating as much.
thanks for the lesson! Nice to know about it, i just bought one e-bike...waiting it to come!
14S/5p with a 50amp bms and LG MJ1 cells is fine for me will have to work out the watt hours.
Thank you you video was very helpful giving some parameters for looking for battery selection!
When you build battery packs, why don't you use insulating fiber washers on the positive ends of the batteries? would it be better to use them or it really doesn't matter?
My 16 incher Fiido D2S weights 21 to 22 kg. It has a 6-month old 36V × 7.8Ah battery and 250W rear hub motor. It covers 38.4 km of paved road which is 75 percent flat, 5 percent 20 degree inclined uphill in 1hr 30min. I use pedal assist only, no throttling. I weight 68-70kg. It seems 12W/mi or 7.3W/km is my factor.
Great video, thanks! I have a question, I bought an E-bike from AMAZON and it uses a 36v 10.4Ah battery, can I use a higher powerful battery such as a 36v 13Ah battery or higher as long as I keep using the same 36V?
Definitely
good topic , thanks for video, just about to build one using 71200 cells, will be 302 watt battery ( Brompton )
would love to see you build a belt driven ebike.
Hi Micah, really enjoy the videos. I notice you have the Swytch setup in the background. My daughter lives in a hilly area (Jerusalem). She only weighs about 50 kg. She does NOT ride quickly. She is concerned about taking public transport in the current climate. Would you recommend the Swytch kit for someone who had an 8 -10 km commute?
Thanks
earle orenstein
how to convert wh to amphour? all the batteries i see are in AmpHour. ok. never mind. i think i take the Voltage then multiply the AH to get the WH you were talking about
Great info for the new eBike buyer who wants to know whether they may need a spare battery
I got the e version of your battery book, it's been very helpful. You could have more illustrations for clarity though.
My bike is tri-powered 1000 watt /48 volt front hub motor, 53CC 4-stroke gas friction drive rear and petal assisted should I choose to petal.
Hi Micah, any chance you could do a piece on connecting 2 batteries in parallel using a setup to balance the batteries. Presumably the batteries would need to be the same voltage but this setup would allow different AmpHrs to be connected, remain balanced and improve capacity. Many thanks.
Here in UK we are limited to max 250 watt motors with sh..ty low ah small batteries. All the UK ads tell you how marvelous the shiny bell is or seat comfort or tyres used conveniently missing the useful stuff
Can you do a vid on sw900 best settings?
I have a 48v motor and 52v battery, display is asking for 36,48,60v , no 52v option. Which do I go with?
I have as 37v 9.6a BionX battery that charges to 41.5v. On the Grin Technologies web site they indicate you can greatly extend the battery life by only charging to 80% of max. Can you think of a cost effective way to only charge my battery to 80% using the standard 37v charger. The chart from Grin Technologies indicates I would want the charger to cut off at about 40.5v. The BionX charger uses a 4 pin XLR Male connector. Can I simply get a Male and female XLR 4 pin connectors to build a short extension jumper with a resistor inline that would limit charging to 40.5v if the jumper is used and would charge normally to the 41.5v if the jumper is not used? All feedback is appreciated. The purchase of a satiator seems expensive.
Whats the best motor voltage to get the longest battery range ever??
Wind hills and tire pressure are the biggest issues , if you can run 100psi tires do it it will give you about an extra 5 miles or more. If you can avoid hills even better . Wind will kill your battery very fast
Last few lines were lovely
That's cool, so I should expect around the 100 mile mark maybe slightly over for my 60v nominal 1,500 watt bike.
The battery is 60v×20amp=1,500wh.
I won't be going over 15mph so I'm going to see around the 100 mile area from it maybe slightly more.
Thank you so much for your invaluable information, highly appreciate it, keep it up the outstanding job, have a great day.
Bro we share the same name and this is exactly what kind of video I needed. Thanks so much!
Hi, I think other!
1. How much range do you want?
2. Where do you drive? Flat terrain oder mountain!
3. How much Watt have your engine?
3. How many support do you need? Level 1 or 5?
4. What is your weight?
5. How often do you want to charge?
So my decision is on a 250V 24V on a 36V system : 1000W are fine for me...
You need as much battery as you can afford. It's never too much battery.
I never hear from peoples "I wish I have a smaller battery", but usually peoples want to have a chance to remove and charge battery out of ebike or scooter for swap(delivery guys for example) and have second battery.
Actually I have too big a battery, no question. It was my first build, and I got sucked into that "well, if I spend a little more I could get that extra amount" cycle. Now I have this giant, heavy battery that I never use up on a ride, looks like an enormous blob on the bike, and is totally awkward to carry around when I remove it at my destination. Now that I know my style of ebike riding (ave speed, power usage, etc) I know that a smaller (lighter, more compact) battery would work better for me.
I'm actually 95% of time going full speed, cruising a bit boring for me. I always trying to get a bit more output out if my scooter.
@@JohnEich You and the op are both right!
Truth, we'll definitely start seeing more dual battery pack setups like wattwagons or r&m - eBikes are starting to be viewed as transportation vehicles.
Hi Micah, just wanted to say that I've been watching your videos for years and I appreciate you so much. Have you ever covered sizing spoke lenghts? I'm trying to build a Schwinn Stingray with a hub motor and I have no clue how to start with the 20" wheel
congrats on hitting 100k, you're way past it now as I'm commenting, very helpful videos
After creating a battery pack with over voltage on that motor sticker design (36 to lets say 52) has anybody made a voltage regular for the controller to bring the voltage back down to the original motor sticker design, wouldn't this make the battery last longer and the amperage draw down to the low end of the battery capacity have a steadier performance. I'm looking for long rides using higher voltage but not increasing motor RPM's. Would this make the battery last longer.
What will the formula be to calculate the amp Hour on a 36v 10A lipo battery?, planning on building like the cheap electric bIke that you built with a brushed motor. BTW, your videos are awesome!
Very helpfull content.
But if I use this in 1000 or more watt motor in ebike. What's the calculation?
Hi, Would the numbers change a lot for a recumbent trike, or would they stay the same? ps. very helpful video thank you
I think you would get lower mileage, considering it has three contact surfaces and heavier weight.
When making a custom ebike battery cover how much ventilation is required?
What is the proportion of eBikes with removable batteries to those with built-in batteries? At least with a removable battery there is the option of carrying a spare battery. Is this normally an issue?
Is there a formula for determining the watt hours of a given battery? Batteries on Amazon state the amp hours, but usually not the watt hours of the battery.
Voltage X amp hours.
Great explanation! I'm working on a range test vid for my DIY 1500w Bafang Ultra and not sure if I can explain all the math as well as you... can I just refer them come ask you? lol
I tested at 250w, 750w, and 1500w PAS. So far it consumes between 27-62 Wh/mi and gets top speeds of 29-41mph. I just upgraded it from single speed to Nexus 3 speed though - will need to do some more testing.
Please help. I am a 77 yr old 227 lbs woman with health issues that needs an ebike with pedal assist for just neighborhood (abt 3-5 blocks) 3 places. What size battery would you recommend? Bare minimum would do. Just because walking is difficult. Very little inclines. Thank you so much. God bless, stay safe.
How do you know if you can fit a bigger battery into your bike and it will accept it? I get an average of about 16 miles per charge give or take according to Hills in different things but I would love to get about 25 miles procharged. Is there a way to go from a 36 volt battery to a 48 volt, and is it based upon the make of the bike?
I know the bikes that have the automatic motor shut off when you apply the brakes seems to go further than the ones that don’t.
I have a problem with the pedal assist it seems that on any mode except for mode 1 the pedal assist seems to outpace me meaning I can’t keep up with the bike motor.
My battery is at 1300 W 48 V battery the motor is 1000 W motor and a bike tops 40+ miles an hour if you’re riding on a long flat Roads…The battery is an anklet battery….The battery is actually more than a kit by $20
hi could you do a vid about the windings inside hub motors ie speed vs torque thanks
Great info , are batteries marked for power level?
I have a couple questions. I'm going to be rebuilding my current battery which is a 3or4p13s 18650 3500mah, to an 8p7s. Is 8p7s to much capacity? Or should I go with a 7p8s instead? Or either? My next question is, I have 24-3500mah cells and 6-3200 mAh cells that have a max output of 20amps but the 3500 cells don't list the max output amps! Can I run the 6-20 amp cells in a 7p, using 1 of the 3500mah cells? Or am I better off not using the 20amp cells at all in the build?
I would love to check out the books. Have you done a video on how to get into the hobby for the beginner that doesn't know where to start?
Normally, when i buy a new ebike, i will divide by 2 the range whatever the manufacturer claims. The range the manufacturer cliams; is usually based on the most energy efficient way of riding the bike,aka impractical daily use(constant flat terrains, lowest gear/slowest speed(slower than 10km/h), no added weight( don't tell me you're not gonna carry any weight, not to mention additional bike rack and basket))
Hi Micah - Thanks for this video, very useful to help figure out the battery size needed. Did you ever get those parts for your budget $182 project? Looking forward to that one.
Going down the EBike kit route for my mum. Would like some more info on doing 2wd.
Also obviously 2 motors is twice the power but is it better to speed the money on a better battery to reduce voltage sag on hills or to have more motor power?
Thanks for putting these videos out. Does the electric motor size have any bearing on the calculations. I would like start my e-bike experience on the cheap, so I planning on buying a chain drive conversion kit. Are they OK for a start, and would your 15-25 watt hours per mile still apply. Thanks, again.
Thanks for the video... But I think I may be more confused now than I was before. Battery packs are rated by voltage and Amp Hours. How do I convert Wh to Ah?
Peace and Blessings Micah!,
Funny you should be discussing battery power and how much you need. Lol
It's been a minute since I've been calling as they say in the South. Lol Been very busy on my second build. A few highlights: Mongoose Dolomite 26x4" (w/reinforced welds) a customized rear hub motor (5000w 100A )designed to reach 129km/85mph from SURINGMAX. Fine manufacturers of E-Motors for bikes, scooters, and motorcycle. You just tell them what you want and it's done. As a result I had to get insurance, and register it with DMV as a "E-Scooter. To ease the registration w/DMV I had the manufacturer stamp a label on the side of the motor that reads: "E-Scooter Motor" Lol. In fact they never look at it. I showed my virtual insurance card and gave the serial numbers for the Mongoose and the motor and it was a done deal! Question the 48v battery left over from my first build, I plan on series connecting to the 96v. More volts more power I've heard you say. Lol. The controller is rated at 100amps. Will this be safe to do? I also built a 8'x6' bike trailer w/ball hitch coupler and 3' side walls and tandem axles from a DIY kit from WIKEBIKE in Canada. Fine makers of bike trailers!! Prefabbed or DIY kits of various models. Stay tune for further updates and photos of finished project!!
This is the video I have been waiting for. Could have done a bit more on covering Watts andVolts of batteries to volts and Watts of controllers to the Volts and amps of motors.
dont burn your brain, that part realy does not matter. well iv never worried about it.
you need to worry about volts and amps.
volts is your power amps is how fast the volts move. more amps more power more heat, not always more top speed and less distance.
@@ATARI-DAVE-73 yes but from what I understand the volts of the battery should equal the motor although the amps just depends on how long it will run under a variable load when you are talking about a bike or can you use a battery with less volts than the motor and its in danger of burning up (literally) or if you use a battery with higher volts than the motor it may not work because the controller ma not be rated for it. So the exact rules is what I am after.
Then how to build in a variable charger for different batteries if there is batteries with more than one voltage and amps at home?
@@SpeKterDesigns
if your kit is 48v 20amp, then battery should be 48v 25amp i would go 30amp.
if your making a kit your self or updating controller then check watt rating, its on the controller.
i learn dis on here a 😷👍🏼
@@SpeKterDesigns this, ask the teacher
Good educational video. Thanks
Hi, I have a mini ebike for my son and it has a 36v 4.4AAh battery. For some reason it would not charge up anymore. I’m thinking of replacing them with a higher capacity battery pack. Will a 36v 20Ah work without changing the controller? Thank you
what is the best ebike for a 185 lbs male with 5'9 height with knee problems and back issues?