Great work and information. If I were a client I would never have guessed the amount of time/work and expertise I was paying for without watching this.
Thanks for these videos. Got roped into re-pointing a 150 year old rubble stone byre here on the west coast of Ireland and wanted to use lime mortar instead of cement. Zero experience. Took 2 days but turned out great. Coat of whitewash and it looks fantastic. Always learn from the best 👍
Brilliant job, really enjoyed the process and explanations. Just about to start renovating an 200 year old house and barn in the Scottish Borders. Thank you for all the great advice!!!
Top man Excellent work really didn't realize how much work goes into it !! I knew it wouldn't be straight forward as brick on stone walls im looking forward to starting mine Cheers brother big help 👍🏻
What crackin fella You can tell you enjoy your job And making a living out if is a by product ..if you enjoying what you do .. Thank your for sharing your knowledge 🙏🏽😊
Lime is water repellent same as I used on old German villa, also inside on the wall rendering as well as pointing, careful though lime, wapno, burns and will take your skin off to the bone
Love your stuff! Live in the US in a 111 year old brick building with lime mortar in need of repointing, so your videos are exactly what I was looking for. What an education. Did you take any video repairing the parapets? Watching the joyful way you share your craft is a true pleasure.
Thanks for the kind words Katsiama! Hope the videos help you with your project. I'm afraid that we didn't record any footage of the parapet repairs on this particular project. We are starting a repointing job next month, where the parapets are getting repaired on a 110 year old gable end property. I feel you might find that video interesting. Stay tuned and I'll make it a good one for you..😁
Splendid Work. Where can I buy them brick joint air spacers? Would conventional roofing supplies stock them, or are they more a conservation product? Thanks
Thanks for the props, Harry. The weep vents are available on ebay for around 10p each. Your local building supplier will surely have them in stock. They are fit as standard on new builds now, so should be readily found.
Love you videos, you are a proper tradesman with real knowledge and understanding of your craft. Where are you based and what are you company contact details I cannot find much for D Porter contracting online.
Great work , I’m doing up an 1910 farm house at the moment, which had previously had its external render completely remove & then the southern facing wall was pointed in PUre CEMENT which had major damp issues , I now have removed all concrete pointing ! My question is this , there is a lot of discussion at the moment regarding NHL3.5 and there suitability’s for pointing as it will keep strengthening! (In 10years it might be like cement) Should I use hotlime instead ? I know the house will have to be completely lime plaster but the time of the year is against me ! The wall is bare inside & out and is very wet 🙈thanks in advance , total confused
Sounds like you have quite. A project on your hands there Michael! I'd go for pointing up with 3.5. it's been used since the early 1900's with no issue at the hands of many thousands of craftsmen. Tried and tested! Can you leave the internal works till spring? It would be best to at least knock the plaster off the internal and let the wall dry out for a month or two before attempting to plaster it out.
The standard of your craftsmanship is outstanding. I’m planning to repoint the gable end of my stone house high up in the West Pennine Moors. It was badly repointed using sand and cement in 2007, which is now falling out and we’re now experiencing water ingress over some of the windows. The gable is exposed, faces southwest, so gets hammered by driving rain for six months of the year! Having watched another of your videos, do you think I should use NHL 5 and add grano dust to the mix? Should the sand be washed sharp sand? I’m also considering painting the finished wall with Stormdry masonry cream and adding Stormdry mortar additive to the NHL 5 mix. It’s claimed that these products allow the wall to breath and ok to use with NHL. Do you think that this will be OK and reduce the risk of water ingress?
Many thanks, Steve. The windows were originally pointed in place with cement mortar. A terrible, lazy practice, as draughts blow around the window frames. Here, we expanding foamed the cavity, then smeared a silicone sealant over the foam, when cured and cut back. The silicone seals the expanding foam. We are waiting now for a glazer to come and upvc seal and finish what we have started.
Cheers Noel. The windows were expanding foamed, into the cavity. Then sealed with silicone, before fixing upvc strips on with silicone. This provides a triple water resistant seal to the window edges.
Great work and information. If I were a client I would never have guessed the amount of time/work and expertise I was paying for without watching this.
Thanks for these videos. Got roped into re-pointing a 150 year old rubble stone byre here on the west coast of Ireland and wanted to use lime mortar instead of cement. Zero experience. Took 2 days but turned out great. Coat of whitewash and it looks fantastic. Always learn from the best 👍
Brilliant job, really enjoyed the process and explanations. Just about to start renovating an 200 year old house and barn in the Scottish Borders. Thank you for all the great advice!!!
love what you do sir. A ray of light to a sometimes grumpy trade 🙏🏻🐝 (Edit) Thankyou for your advice. It’s helped me so much.
Thanks for the kind words Pam!
A great series of videos for the amateur DIYer.. like me... thank you so much. Lovely to see you take so much pride in your work
Top man Excellent work really didn't realize how much work goes into it !! I knew it wouldn't be straight forward as brick on stone walls im looking forward to starting mine Cheers brother big help 👍🏻
What crackin fella
You can tell you enjoy your job
And making a living out if is a by product ..if you enjoying what you do ..
Thank your for sharing your knowledge 🙏🏽😊
"It aint work if you love what you do.."
Thanks for the props, matey.
What a lovely bloke and brimming with knowledge - "blowing a gail platt!"
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and skills and the pride you take in your work is inspiring
Fair play 👍
Thank you. Great video series.
Lime is water repellent same as I used on old German villa, also inside on the wall rendering as well as pointing, careful though lime, wapno, burns and will take your skin off to the bone
Awesome work mate 👍
Wife: Babe have you seen the pillow case?
Cheaper than a dreadlock case..😄
My terrace house is 1840s inside brickwork mortar now powder.
Get on the repoint Dublin Snob. Bring it back to its 1840s glory!
Love your stuff! Live in the US in a 111 year old brick building with lime mortar in need of repointing, so your videos are exactly what I was looking for. What an education. Did you take any video repairing the parapets?
Watching the joyful way you share your craft is a true pleasure.
Thanks for the kind words Katsiama!
Hope the videos help you with your project.
I'm afraid that we didn't record any footage of the parapet repairs on this particular project. We are starting a repointing job next month, where the parapets are getting repaired on a 110 year old gable end property. I feel you might find that video interesting. Stay tuned and I'll make it a good one for you..😁
@@dportercontracting9974 I will stay tuned. I'm a fan and subscriber!
Splendid Work. Where can I buy them brick joint air spacers? Would conventional roofing supplies stock them, or are they more a conservation product?
Thanks
Thanks for the props, Harry.
The weep vents are available on ebay for around 10p each. Your local building supplier will surely have them in stock. They are fit as standard on new builds now, so should be readily found.
Love you videos, you are a proper tradesman with real knowledge and understanding of your craft. Where are you based and what are you company contact details I cannot find much for D Porter contracting online.
Great work , I’m doing up an 1910 farm house at the moment, which had previously had its external render completely remove & then the southern facing wall was pointed in PUre CEMENT which had major damp issues , I now have removed all concrete pointing ! My question is this , there is a lot of discussion at the moment regarding NHL3.5 and there suitability’s for pointing as it will keep strengthening! (In 10years it might be like cement)
Should I use hotlime instead ?
I know the house will have to be completely lime plaster but the time of the year is against me !
The wall is bare inside & out and is very wet 🙈thanks in advance , total confused
Sounds like you have quite. A project on your hands there Michael!
I'd go for pointing up with 3.5. it's been used since the early 1900's with no issue at the hands of many thousands of craftsmen. Tried and tested!
Can you leave the internal works till spring? It would be best to at least knock the plaster off the internal and let the wall dry out for a month or two before attempting to plaster it out.
The standard of your craftsmanship is outstanding. I’m planning to repoint the gable end of my stone house high up in the West Pennine Moors. It was badly repointed using sand and cement in 2007, which is now falling out and we’re now experiencing water ingress over some of the windows. The gable is exposed, faces southwest, so gets hammered by driving rain for six months of the year! Having watched another of your videos, do you think I should use NHL 5 and add grano dust to the mix? Should the sand be washed sharp sand? I’m also considering painting the finished wall with Stormdry masonry cream and adding Stormdry mortar additive to the NHL 5 mix. It’s claimed that these products allow the wall to breath and ok to use with NHL. Do you think that this will be OK and reduce the risk of water ingress?
Awesome work! One question, what is the mix used around the windows? It looks different than the lime putty? Thank you!
Many thanks, Steve. The windows were originally pointed in place with cement mortar. A terrible, lazy practice, as draughts blow around the window frames. Here, we expanding foamed the cavity, then smeared a silicone sealant over the foam, when cured and cut back. The silicone seals the expanding foam. We are waiting now for a glazer to come and upvc seal and finish what we have started.
Beautiful job, how did you seal around the window
Cheers Noel. The windows were expanding foamed, into the cavity. Then sealed with silicone, before fixing upvc strips on with silicone. This provides a triple water resistant seal to the window edges.
Where are you guys based
I detect a Lancashire accent
We are over in a mill town called Barnoldswick. It's on the Yorks/Lancs border.