Use a raster cut for your pocket. Looks so much better. You could also try a roughing bit in the pocket first, then the bowl bit. It cut back on time for me
Thanks, I will give it a try. In my latest video I carve out a Xmas tree tray and I encounter some other problems with it. One of the problems was occurring in this video with the trays as well. It has to do with the depth of cut on my final finishing pass for the bowl area, the other issue was dealing with a bad file that I purchased. 👍
so for a newbie like me, i definitely wanted to say use a rastor cut and go slimmer o the last pass but on the software side, how would you program that? A, would you program it so that for example your final depth and depth of cut equal in a way where its forced to then take one final slim pass and do the whole cut from start to finish as rastor orrrr B, two seperate operations where first goes lets say to .74 out of .75 depth and second is set as rastor and does the remaining like .01 or whatever? also, what do you prefer that last little rastor cut depth to be?
Watch my most recent video I explain, and trouble shoot all of that. There is a minimum cut depth for a bowl bit, don't fast forward or you will miss it. ruclips.net/video/8JiM1uCLz04/видео.html
Sorry not enough demand for it, your the only person to ask for it. If enough people asked to see it I would do it, but that doesn't seem to be the case.
I zero on machine bed. Never have to worry about bit cutting funny faces in your spoil board. Then I leave an onion skin last pass to secure the stock. So material is .5, I cut to .49. Holds item very secure and you can snap the skin off with your hand. Thanks for video! Keep them coming!
Thanks so much! I'm glad you enjoy them. I use a sacrificial board that I mount to the spoil board so the spoil board never gets touched. It's great for the trays because I have a thin board mounted to the left edge that is perfectly 90 to the face, great for registering it in the same place every time. 👍
Is that your new 2.2kw spindle? Shapeoko on Steroids ~~~ Maaaaaan that is wicked !! I just got mine and have to run some 220v to that area of my dungeon Please keep 'em coming best Pop's
@@StudioZ72.create thank you. Im currently stuck to choosing air or watercooled vfd spindle 2.2kw. I really liked the air one if the noise is almost the same when they are in action due to cutting noise.
I would highly recommend the water cooled. The cutting noise will be the same but the actual spindle running will be quieter. If you do end up machining something that requires a lot of machining time then you won't have to worry with the water cooled spindle. I know myself I have a couple of projects that take over an hour of machining and it's nice to not have to worry about overheating.
Hey there! It's coming soon! I'm setting up a store on Etsy and probably here on my channel in merch. I'm working out all the details , won't be long! Thanks so much!
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Use a raster cut for your pocket. Looks so much better. You could also try a roughing bit in the pocket first, then the bowl bit. It cut back on time for me
Thanks, I will give it a try. In my latest video I carve out a Xmas tree tray and I encounter some other problems with it. One of the problems was occurring in this video with the trays as well. It has to do with the depth of cut on my final finishing pass for the bowl area, the other issue was dealing with a bad file that I purchased. 👍
Yeah, sometimes you'll run into that with buying files. Always check your nodes
so for a newbie like me, i definitely wanted to say use a rastor cut and go slimmer o the last pass but on the software side, how would you program that? A, would you program it so that for example your final depth and depth of cut equal in a way where its forced to then take one final slim pass and do the whole cut from start to finish as rastor orrrr B, two seperate operations where first goes lets say to .74 out of .75 depth and second is set as rastor and does the remaining like .01 or whatever? also, what do you prefer that last little rastor cut depth to be?
Watch my most recent video I explain, and trouble shoot all of that. There is a minimum cut depth for a bowl bit, don't fast forward or you will miss it. ruclips.net/video/8JiM1uCLz04/видео.html
I was hoping to see how you made the quilted one. Would love to see a video on that.
Sorry not enough demand for it, your the only person to ask for it. If enough people asked to see it I would do it, but that doesn't seem to be the case.
@@StudioZ72.createwould love to see it too!
I would love to see it.
Yep, Id like to see it as well
I wanna see how you did it too!
I zero on machine bed. Never have to worry about bit cutting funny faces in your spoil board. Then I leave an onion skin last pass to secure the stock. So material is .5, I cut to .49. Holds item very secure and you can snap the skin off with your hand. Thanks for video! Keep them coming!
Thanks so much! I'm glad you enjoy them. I use a sacrificial board that I mount to the spoil board so the spoil board never gets touched. It's great for the trays because I have a thin board mounted to the left edge that is perfectly 90 to the face, great for registering it in the same place every time. 👍
I leave the onion skin and. 99% of the time, I round over the bottom of the trays I make. Knocks off that onion skin quick and easy.
Great video!
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it!
Is that your new 2.2kw spindle? Shapeoko on Steroids ~~~
Maaaaaan that is wicked !! I just got mine and have to run some 220v to that area of my dungeon
Please keep 'em coming
best Pop's
Hey Pop's! Yes it is my 2.2 kw spindle. It's a beast you're going to love it! Glad you liked it, much appreciated! Best, Pete
@@StudioZ72.createshocking depth of cut on such a large diameter cut !
How long did it take ?
The rectangular tray took about 5 minutes of actual machining time, give or take
@@StudioZ72.create thank you. Im currently stuck to choosing air or watercooled vfd spindle 2.2kw. I really liked the air one if the noise is almost the same when they are in action due to cutting noise.
I would highly recommend the water cooled. The cutting noise will be the same but the actual spindle running will be quieter. If you do end up machining something that requires a lot of machining time then you won't have to worry with the water cooled spindle. I know myself I have a couple of projects that take over an hour of machining and it's nice to not have to worry about overheating.
@@StudioZ72.create thank you so much. Now ill go with watercooled spindle 🤩.
@@aha5888 I have an air cooled, it works fine. Doesn't get hot. Also don't have to fool with the water, so saves some money
Where can I buy those trays!
Hey there! It's coming soon! I'm setting up a store on Etsy and probably here on my channel in merch. I'm working out all the details , won't be long! Thanks so much!
Put an um counter on these videos 🤣
Yes, probably my worst ummm count in a video. 😒 Now I'm really aware of it and it won't happen again
Interesting content.....but if you really want to grow your subscriber list get rid of the non-stop "um,um,um"
Thanks, yes I've been trying, bad habit 😒
@@StudioZ72.create SUBSCRIBED!!