Super Easy CNC router Catch All Tray in Carbide Create
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- This step by step tutorial will cover everything from designing to finishing the perfect catch all tray. These make great gifts and are a quick and easy sale! These techniques will work for an unlimited number of designs.
FREE svg files can be found here:
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Did you make one of these after watching this tutorial? If so, I'd love to see it! Please tag me on Instagram @full_steam_designs and Facebook @Full Steam Designs
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Made one the other day for a Marine that has cancer hoping to cheer him up….thanks for the great video!
I just ran my very first project on my new Shapeoko Pro XXL. Thanks to the info you gave in creating this file in this video I was able to have complete success. Thank you. Thank you. Thank you!
Chris, Thanks for making this tutorial. I just bought a Shapeoko Pro XXL and I have been having a very difficult time learning CNC, this is my first one, until I found this video and that includes live training from Carbide 3D and the Training Videos from their website.
Good luck with it. Don’t be afraid to reach out if you have any questions.
Love when you do these types of CNC projects!
I am new to this but out of every one I watched That was the best Bro. Thanks Much.
Thank you for the inspiration
Got some projects to try out!
Lovely piece of work. Will try doing that again, my skills need perfecting (only running 3018 clone, not as fast/strong as your machine)
The most informative video I've found yet keep up the good work man
Awesome project, thanks for the tutorial. Doesn't seem too complicated to make. I'll definitely try and make an Army one for myself and baby Yoda for wife.
How does this have 4 thumbs down? I'm new to CNC, just got my setup. This video is the most helpful of all others I've seen. Thank you
I always wonder the same thing. I wish people would say what they didn’t like. Thanks for the support!
@@ChrisPowellFSD Exactly
Fantastic video. I got more useful information from this one video, than all others I watched. Thank You!!
Thanks for watching!
Excellent video Chris. You put your all into it. Lots of great tips. Thanks.
I need to get me one of those fancy palm sanders that does 1/4 round overs.
Excellent video, Thank You.
Nice Tutorial Chris, gave me some great Ideas for gifts for friends and family! You rock!
This is a really great tutorial, really easy to follow and understand! Thanks bro!
Thank you
Awesome catchall brother!!!
Great stuff every time.
Thanks!
SemperFi from Summerville, SC Brother!
Nicely done Chris. Thanks for sharing it. Semper Fi
Thanks. Always something new to try.
Nice video. Thanks for the tips Chris.
Great tutorial! Thanks!
Very cool,. Wondering if this could be done using an X-carve and Easel. Good Stuff - keep creating - gonna show this stuff to my students in middle school who will be using a CNC.
Been watching your vids for awhile, almost a year ago and even said before that Shapeoko should send you a CNC for your tutorials. But now I finally got my Shapeoko Pro XXL working after back and forth dealings with Carbide (which IMO has the best customer service), now I'm rewatching your videos to learn from the getgo. Thanks again Chris! This might be such a newbie request, but there are zero vids on YT, but any chance can you do a vid on surfacing your material with the Shapeoko? I have a mortising bit and the Mcfly from Carbide but haven't used it yet. Not sure if you surface it manually or if there's a way to program it in Carbide Create. Hoping I can learn that so I can just use the planar for the other side to get a fully leveled material. Thanks again Chris and keep up the awesome vids!
Thanks. I have a couple wasteboard surfacing videos. The process be would be similar. Just draw a rectangle or the rough shape of the object if it isn’t square and do a pocket toolpath. I usually remove like .1” at a time and try to push the router as fast as I can. Like 200ipm.
Great video. Very informative. You make it look easy. Thanks. Im subscribing
Thank you!
nice man
Thank you
THANK YOU!
You’re welcome!
Chris, thank you for your great tutorial videos, I have a question for you, how do you import pictures or files you see on the computer and put them into the external file part of carbide create area, thanks mate (Australian viewer)
what the name of the second handheld one , pretty cool how you rounded the edges
The router?
12:06... Outline looks like a bunny!! LOL
Don’t tell the Marine Corps that lol
Hey Chris just want to thank you for your videos. You are very explanatory. I just bought a shapeoko xxl. I have no experience. Can you please tell me how can I get some classes. I leave in Las Vegas Nevada. Even if I have to pay. I understand it. Thank you in advance
Hey Chris. Great videos. Just got our shapeoko a month ago and have been cruising along. I bought a fine tip engraver .005 spektra 90 degree and was looking for some tips on using that. Depth of cut, max depth etc. any guidelines for v carve with a delicate bit?
Also, did you not include zeroing on the bottom left corner? Someone new may assume you can touch off and zero z anywhere.
I haven’t used that bit specifically. Depending on material, I usually start at 100ipm feed and .050” doc and adjust from there for a new bit.
Z doesn’t have to be zeroed in the lower left corner. It can be done anywhere.
@@ChrisPowellFSD I knew that about the z. Just didn’t see you zero x and y in the vid.
Thanks for the tips! Happy new year.
This is an awesome tutorial! If you wanted to highlight the lines on the EG&A with say, black, do you have any tips on how to do that? Thanks again for all the great videos. Semper Fi!
I’ve thought about trying it before. I think I’d set the start depth a little lower for the EGA, say .05”, then fill that with epoxy. Then come back and run the first pass with the 1/4” endmil again, but go .05” deeper to remove the additional material and epoxy.
Chris Powell That’s a great idea - thanks again
Hi Chris, this was a great video and very timely, I am going to make one for my son who is a Marine. Did I miss this or what is your settings for the 60 degree bit ie. feed and speed?
I’m sure he will love it. I run it about 100ipm feed/plunge on setting 1. You can adjust it in CM if you want to speed it up a little.
Thank you for taking the time to make and post this video(all your videos). Ive gone through the setup and program exactly like youve done but I keep getting an "empty tool path" when I try to setup the Advanced V carve. Can you think of what might be going wrong?
Thanks for watching. Hmmm... sometimes they can take a while to load and I have to try doing the toolpath again. Did you set the start depth to the lower height after using the larger end mil to clear the pocket?
@@ChrisPowellFSD yes I set the depths right and have redone the entire project multiple time in CC. Thanks for such a quick response time. I'll just program it normally and when it comes to actually running it in XXL I'll have to reset my V bit zero anyways so I'll do it off the lower surface. Thanks again and keep the good videos coming bro.
Let me know if you find anything that could have been causing it. Thanks
Hey chris, thanks for all the videos. My.heads buzzing with ideas. What's your typical go to wood for projects like the trays? Big box stores really only have select pine. I have to find a local lumber yard
Thanks for watching. I really like cherry or oak. I’ve had good luck getting both for a reasonable price locally, and they cut great, especially cherry.
Does the 2 flute bit cut way faster than the regular carbide 204 bit? Because my cut times are alot longer than yours. Even my 60 degree v is estimating 86 minutes
@@workingdogwoodworks1455 it cuts at whatever feed rate you tell it to cut at. I’m not familiar with their bits, but I would imagine you can go faster than what CC has set for the default settings.
Very nice. What was your depth of cut with the V bit?
I don’t remember. .2” or something. It should be in the video.
I had a quick question for you. I am new to cnc (Haven't cut on my shapeoko yet). When you did the EGA catch all tray, you said that you edge glued a couple boards, do you think that is better than cutting from a 1x12? I was just wondering about overall strength, and also wondering if removing that much material would lead to warping.
Thanks
Both ways work fine. It could warp in either case. It is a lot of material.
Thanks. What are the overall dimensions. What thickness do you prefer for catch all trays.
I follow you plan to a “T” but when I ran the program by v bit would not go all the way down and cut the wood. It just cut about a 1/4” above the wood. I have a bit setter.
Check your z zero
Hy Chris, I would like to ask at the end why didn't You cut through the entire material with the CNC?
It's just preference. I prefer leave a small amount of material since I'm going to round the corners off anyways.
@@ChrisPowellFSD thanks.
Nice video, the software that you used to make the drawing was carbide ?
Yes
I'm curious, as one who is just starting out, do you have to save the g-code in 3 different lines. Or can you do it all in one and then expect the machine to pause itself between lines and prompt you to change tools?
It will pause and allow you to change, but won’t allow you to reset zero manually. You’ll have to use a bit setter or stop collars to set the bits to the same length like I do.
Great tutorial Chris. I do have a question for you regarding your cutout tool path. What speed and depth of cut did you use for your cutout? I did a simple rectangular tray yesterday using pine and a 1/4" endmill to cut it out, and I got a lot of chatter. I think I might have been trying to go too deep and or too fast? Thoughts?
For depth I usually do half the diameter, so .125” for a 1/4” bit. You should be able to run it pretty fast. Like 150 ipm. Chatter can also be caused by the router speed being too high. I generally keep my dewalt on speed 1 or 2.
@@ChrisPowellFSD Thanks for the info. I'll try that on my next one and see what happens. My alternative is to just cut it out w/ a jig saw, seeing as it's pretty straight and I don't have more powerful power tools, and then sand the edges. It would probably go quicker to cut it out that way. :) Thanks again for the great videos and wonderful advice.
I know this is an older version but just watched it as I'm learning to use my new (to me) Pro XL. I'm a little lost on saving each individual g-code. I've downloaded files where some toolpaths were disabled also and i didn't understand why. Can you help me understand why that is? Also, I'm assuming the order of the toolpaths matter. however, a few files i've purchased seeemed out of order to me like doing the cutout first which seems problematic.
any help would be appreciated.
Cheers!
Hay Chris, I am still having problems going from Carbide Create to Carbide Motion and I did a Google Search and it seems that I am not the only one. When I export something from Carbide Create I can't find it anywhere on Carbide Motion so therefore I can't get anything to carve. Have you ever had this problem? Also because of the problems I keep having I was considering trying Easel but I'm afraid of trying something new being that I am so gorgled with Carbide 3D. What are your thoughts on Easel Pro or just Easel?
I haven’t had those problems. I wouldn’t bother with Easel. I use Carveco Maker and really like that.
Chris, what wood did you use for this? Would you share what oil you used on the piece? I heard you say it but could not make it out. I Love it and have a daughter that just left for NAVY basic training and would love to make one for her. I know this is the USMC Logo I would, of course, use the NAVY logo if I can find it.
This is cherry. I really like the way it cuts and have been using it for a few projects recently. It’s Odie’s oil. If you email me, I can send you the image you need. Chris@fullsteamdesigns.com
@@ChrisPowellFSD message sent, thank you for your help.
When you made you bit setter how did you decide on how deep to drill the whole I assume it does not go all the way through. I s that right.
Jeff
It does go all the way through the wooden block. Then I screwed that plate to the bottom. If I did it again, I’d probably make that plate out of steel and the block out of something composite.
Also that driver you used to tighten the screw on the collets what and where did you get it.thanks
jeff
That’s an old snap on one. Here’s something similar, you would just need to verify that it had the right size Allen. NoCry Stubby Ratcheting Screwdriver Kit with 12-in-1 Mini Bit Set including Flathead, Hex, Torx and Pozidriv Tips www.amazon.com/dp/B075D3CYC1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PaIDEb77XA9CX
Chris While watching this video ( by the way a great project) I see that there are some different screens that show up in CM router rpm change?
What version are you running and have you done a video on it.
They actually just completely redid CM. I was using one of the most current builds of v4, but now it looks like they’re going to a v5. Honestly, it’s been hard to keep up with all of their changes. Hopefully v5 ends up being a constant for a little while.
@@ChrisPowellFSD Could I down load the new version and try it out while still having my current version to fall back on incase I dont like the new one Jeff
Yea I always keep a second copy of CM and CC that I know works well. Just change the name of your originals to CM 2 and CC 2.
Chris, that paper you use to set zero, can you explain what it is?
I just lower the bit until it touches the paper and punches it. Then I know I’m at my z zero.
Do you recommend a down cut bit or upcut when hogging out the pocket?
I actually use a straight 2 flute mortising bit.
Why do you save the tool paths as individual files? Does it not stop in between each tool path if saved into 1 file?
It does, but not everyone has a bit setter or stop collars, so for them, it won’t.
Noob question here. If I understand right with the depth collar you don't reset zero for each new g-code you run for the same project since that was done initially so all you have to do is load the new file and it should work fine. But does that hold true for the X and Y or should we jog those to the last current position? Thank you in advance for your help.
All of the values for your workpiece 0 are stored in your computer. If you run a fence like I do, you never have to rezero x and y, even between projects.
@@ChrisPowellFSD cool. Thank you.
Is that a .25 60 deg V-bit? Can you link that and the collars?
The bit is a Ruhi, but it doesn’t seem to be available on Amazon right now. Here’s the collars. www.mcmaster.com/6435k12
I was looking on your website for that file, but was unable to find it. Has it been removed?
Sorry the Marine Corps copyright office got upset about it, so I had to take it down. Here it is on another page: commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Globeanchor.svg
Chris.Is your 2 flute 1/4" bit a plunge bit And what brand is it Thanks
Jeff
I use a Bosch straight 2 flute mortising bit for this also. Works great. Bosch 85617M 1/4 In. x 1 In. Solid Carbide 2-Flute Straight Bit www.amazon.com/dp/B000GYG5Q8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1j5DEbWRR68DJ
Thank Chris I my very well have one as already
@@ChrisPowellFSD Thanks Chris. Could any 1/4" bit work? Mine current bit is an up-cut.
hello can you tell me if the program is in metric (mm) and imperial (in)
It can do both.
why do i get empty toolpath when i use advanced vcarve
It’s tough to say without looking at it. Fee free to send me the c2d file and I’ll check it out. Chris@fullsteamdesigns.com
are you having any problems with Create 461 which the company says it's still in Beta?
No problems here. Works great for me. I almost always run the beta.
@@ChrisPowellFSD thanks.
well.... I have Carbide Create.... and I think you need Carbide Create Pro. to do this.....
Its free right now, go download it
This is available in the newest version of CC. I put a link in the description.
What type of wood did you use?
Cherry
@@ChrisPowellFSD looks damn good man!
Thanks!
bonjour peux tu me dire si le programme est en métrique (mm) et impériale (in )
Hello again, so a question about the durability of this project. On another channel they discussed how solid piece trays, bottoms, and boxes will rip themselves apart because the CNC exposes the wood for swelling and shifting but all your pieces seem well made. How do they hold up? I am at a loss to how to even research what they mean. Yours and a few other channels are what drove me to get a CNC but if the pieces do not last what is the point? Thank you if you can point me in the right direction.
I’ve never heard of or experienced anything like that.
@@ChrisPowellFSD Thank you for responding. It was from the Wyrmwood channel (they are reviewing other people's works the last few episodes) so I am asking from help there as well.
I understand boxes can warp, and possible trays if soaked or whatnot, but I cannot even Google how this would happen normally. Thanks again. Looking forward to more videos.
I’ll look them up. Thanks.
@@ChrisPowellFSD No problem, they make higher-end DnD products, like a $20,000 table and dice towers that are $150. Essentially a niche woodworking company that uses rare or hard to source wood. I could never afford to own their stuff but it is nice looking at their craft.
How much does everyone think it would sell for?
I sell them for about $80.
Either way you can send me the program for this for my CNc
Where did that advanced tab come from?
It’s available in the latest beta. I put a link to it in the description. It also allows for flat bottom v carves.
Thats awesome was hoping they would this. How does it run pretty stable?
Yea no issues here. There’s only one problem with the flat bottom v carve. In order for it to work properly, you either need a bit setter or these depth stop collars like I use. Hopefully they change this in the future. I’m going to do a video on it in the next few days.
How do you import that design or any design??
Are you trying to import an svg? On the design tab, there’s a button towards the middle of the screen on the left. It’s a rectangle with an arrow pointing down.
@@ChrisPowellFSD yes I see that but how do you get it on your computer? The design. into your downloads on the computer.
You’ll have to download them. I have some in my website. Just click on whatever image you want, and it will download a zip. Unzip that file, and it will be an svg. fullsteamdesigns.com/maker-resources/
Is it illegal to sell stuff with military logos on them?
You can pay each branch for a license. Search for a hobby license for whatever branch you’re interested in.
ok forest
Very simple very bad