Видео

You're welcome! Glad it was helpful.

None of the plunges were even close to full speed. I'm well aware of plunging and it wasn't necessary in this test. The plunge rate was pretty "slow", just so you know the feeds and speeds recommended in most toolpaths are way too conservative because the manufacturers are covering themselves for legal reasons being that these are "hobbyist" machines.

Read the heading he’s testing , and other then breaking a bit the spindle can take a lot of abuse and this isn’t even close.

@sggin1 ok, you don't your way and I'll do it mine.

Glad it was helpful!

Just to be clear, it wasn't 2 hours of unnecessary z movements, more like 10 minutes. It only lifted on the short side of the rectangle from the starting point, not on the other 3 sides.

@@StudioZ72.create Is there not multiple 3D machining stratagies available in the software i.e zig zag, spiral outside to in or inside to out? Great idea nonetheless thanks for sharing.

Thanks, glad you enjoyed it! Yes, there are 2 strategies available, offset (spiral) and raster which have about the same machining time. I use the raster at a 40-degree angle because it seems to produce the best finish with the least amount of post work.

Yes it will, I used Vcarve Pro and was able to scale up the mountain size. Turn on the material block and then you have the controls to adjust the height of mountains.

Yes it will

So, I noticed that for the first time also on this piece. Oddly, it only raised above Z zero on one side and not the other three. I am looking into that to take that out of the process. It also did it a few other times throughout the finishing pass sporadically as if the machine was taking a breather, lol!

Takes a hi dollar cam program to avoid that. Even the hi dollar programs create more z moves than you would think necessary

Thanks so much! I am still experimenting with the 40-degree angle but, from what I have seen it seems to produce the least amount of fuzz. It always produces the fuzz on the same side of an object and I'm not sure if that's the grain structure. Cutting the piece in only one direction (climb vs conventional cutting) would produce the best results but that would increase the machining time significantly. For me, it's a balance of speed and minimal post cleanup.

Thank you very much!

Thank you! You only zero it once before the roughing pass, the machine maintains the X, Y and Z until you reset it. I use Bitzero V2.

@@StudioZ72.create I too use a touch probe for my machine. If you use the probe on the surface of the materials to set Z on your roughing pass, its likely that your next bit for the finish pass will have changed Z home position. Currently, I reset Z after each bit change. On your project, you no longer have a smooth material surface to set your probe.

I only set zero before the roughing pass, there is no need to zero it again after the roughing pass and it would be very difficult because the surface is very irregular. I don't think you understood my comment, I also use bitsetter for when I change tools.

About 6 1/2 hours

Thanks!

Thanks so much!

Thank you! Glad you liked it!

You're very welcome!

Thank you! You're very welcome, glad you enjoyed it.

Thanks! No, this toolpath in Vectric does all of that for you. The degree of detail is controlled by how deep the v bit is plunged into the material. So, for finer detail it's only using the very tip of the bit and for larger detail it plunges deeper creating a wider v groove. It is this variation in depth that creates the image.

Thank you! Yeah, I drilled a small hole by hand. It was much faster than doing it on the CNC.

Surprisingly, only about 40 minutes

Thanks so much! It's a Vivo from Amazon.

@@StudioZ72.create thx for the info🙂

👍

From the bottom of the z axis to the top of the strut is 17". Just add the distance from the bottom of the z axis to your hybrid table surface.

Yes, I explain in the video that it's best to keep the grain horizontal and to use wood that has straight grain like rift sawn. This will give you a muted background that won't interfere with the photo.

Thanks so much!

Thanks so much!!

Glad you enjoyed the video! My machine is made by Carbide 3D and it is a Shapeoko 5 Pro with their 2.2 kw spindle kit. Regarding my sign, you would have to break up the tree into multiple "stamps" if you will, one for each color you intend on using. This is done in the design software where you just break up the tree image into different sections. I use Vectric software, specifically Aspire version. If you go to my channel there are lots of other videos showing the assembly of the machine and other cool projects I made. Enjoy!

Yes

I will be making a bowl in an upcoming video just not sure when, could be 2-3 months out

How long u think it might take to route out one just curious thanks

How long does it take u to do the picture them are really neat

So, I made a 9" dinner bowl that was 1.5" tall and it took just over an hour, if I had to guess I would say close to 2 hours?

You're welcome!

Sure, it's a Shapeoko 5 Pro made by Carbide 3D. It's really the design software that I use that makes the photo carving possible and that is Vectric. I have the Aspire version. If you go on my channel there are videos on the machine.

What spindle kit do u use

And can I use the same spindle for sign cut too

Carbide 3D 2.2 kw water cooled spindle, but you can also use a 1.2 kw spindle.

Yes

Thanks so much!

Thanks, I created the vector but didn't go back to clean it up as I thought it was a clean line. Now I know 👍

Probably tons of black nodes on the curves. Need to use smoothing function to convert to smoth arcs. I've been there, usually from bitmaps

Thanks so much! Glad you enjoyed it!

Oh and may I ask where you got that sprayer for the shellac?

Thanks so much and welcome! The focus of this channel is the details, lots more to come!

Amazon, It's a Vivo.

Thanks so much! Sure, they took about 40 minutes each.

Thanks so much!

Believe it or not that is 3/4" x 4" Maple from Home Depot. Look in the trim section where all the moldings are. Mine has red oak, maple and poplar, possibly different in other stores. But maple is probably the best because it carves clean, and these photos are supposed to be black and white, so the maple is great at replicating the white part. I did have to dig through the stack for boards with straight grain and no mineral streaks, but they have them.

Thanks, I will give it a try. In my latest video I carve out a Xmas tree tray and I encounter some other problems with it. One of the problems was occurring in this video with the trays as well. It has to do with the depth of cut on my final finishing pass for the bowl area, the other issue was dealing with a bad file that I purchased. 👍

Yeah, sometimes you'll run into that with buying files. Always check your nodes

so for a newbie like me, i definitely wanted to say use a rastor cut and go slimmer o the last pass but on the software side, how would you program that? A, would you program it so that for example your final depth and depth of cut equal in a way where its forced to then take one final slim pass and do the whole cut from start to finish as rastor orrrr B, two seperate operations where first goes lets say to .74 out of .75 depth and second is set as rastor and does the remaining like .01 or whatever? also, what do you prefer that last little rastor cut depth to be?

Watch my most recent video I explain, and trouble shoot all of that. There is a minimum cut depth for a bowl bit, don't fast forward or you will miss it. ruclips.net/video/8JiM1uCLz04/видео.html

You're welcome, sure the wood was maple. It works the best because it carves very clean, and its color is neutral. Keep in mind these are black and white photos, so you need a wood that is close to white. Glad you enjoyed it!

How do you think RUclipsrs make money?

Thanks so much! So, the settings for the bit really don't matter because the photo vcarve toolpath is where that happens. In photo vcarve there is a choice for dense or sparse and that is basically your step over, I chose dense, the pass depth was set to .04 which is called max carving depth, and my feed rate was 130 ipm and a plunge rate of 60 ipm at 18000 rpm. Hope that helps! 😊

That's what I thought. Use the smoothing curves function

Yeah, I definitely will on the next one. I made the mistake of assuming that when you purchase a file it comes to you perfect, now I know to check them 👍

Yeah dirty file

I was thinking too many nodes as well

File is good, just needs a little cleanup and smoothing

👍

I would highly recommend the chiller, especially if you are running a project that takes up to an hour to carve. You won't have to worry about it overheating. But yeah, it's really a game changer.

Do you mean design software? None that I know of.

I solved it, did you watch the whole video? Just checking not trying to be rude

I found Carbide create very difficult to use and what I mean by that is that my brain doesn't work the same way that Carbide create works. It's also limited to what you can make with it. When I started using Vectric I immediately was relieved because I found it easy to use and it worked the same way that my brain thinks. This is the easiest way to explain it but yes, I think it's easier and you can do way more with it.

Obrigado!

Thank you! I too am trying to minimize the diagonal lines, going to look into carving this as a 3d picture also 👍