The art of pressing in bespoke tailoring
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- Опубликовано: 4 июл 2024
- Savile Row tailoring is known for its hand cutting and delicate hand sewing. But just as important is the way the pressing of a suit - the way steam and pressure can shrink the cloth, stretch it and shape it. And this rarely gets talked about.
In this video, British author Simon Crompton shows the difference that pressing makes, with the help of Dege & Skinner on Savile Row.
This is priceless, sir. For someone who actually wants to do such thing , not having a teacher, this is priceless.
Thank. you.
Oh good, lovely to hear
I'm glad you still make videos for the channel.
It would be amazing if you could make a video or a video series where you show of your clothing collection. It would probably be very long, but interesting as well. Best regards
Thanks, yes after a long pause during Covid we're back to doing videos like this - always a supplement to PermanentStyle.com, when it feels like it makes sense to show something in movement.
Thanks for the suggestion on a video about the wardrobe. It would certainly take a while! Perhaps ones that focus on one category at a time would work well?
@@PermanentStyleLondon Apsolutely. That's why I recomended a series of videos.
Hope it happens. Be safe
Cheers
Quite possibly the most underrated part of getting a suit to fit absolutely perfectly
Exactly
Wow after so very long...was waiting for your upload. Regular reader of your blogs. Thank you for all your amazing content .
Thank you. Yes video has always been something we do when we feel it makes more sense to show something in motion. Otherwise I prefer articles that you can go back to and scan, search, reference and so on
Thanks so much - this is incredibly helpful. People often talk about pressing in the context of why not to take a Jiffy steamer to a suit jacket, or simply allude to its mystique. But seeing the stretching and shrinking actually done clarifies the sculptor-like aspect of the craft a lot and makes it very clear what's at stake when it's time to clean a garment or take some wrinkles out.
And of course it's invaluable to watch the workers' hands as they manipulate the fabric. This part will hopefully rub off a little as I maintain my own suiting at home. It may even help as I slowly graduate from a very basic level of sewing (basic hems and plans seams, mostly for home decor) to more challenging pieces.
Wonderful to hear, thank you
Enjoyed this. I love seeing the steps that create a garment.
Lovely to hear, thank you
Hi Simon,
It is wonderful that you continued to video for this channel. Reading your blog has been a daily activity for me, I hope that together with videos like this would showcase the beauty of menswear craftmanship.
Hope to see more videos like this!
Thank you, yes we will continue to do that, don't worry. Another one up today in fact!
It's about time you had a new video!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Absolutely
Wonderful art!
Absolutely. It's nice to highlight these hidden aspects of it. Helps when you've been covering it for a long time as well
Very helpful, thank you Simon. The internet is flooded with cobblers videos and I feel like I have a much better understanding of the shoemaking process as well as the anatomy of a shoe compared to tailoring which seems much more cryptic. The visual aid is very useful in that regard. Cheers
Nice to hear, thanks Enrico. You probably know this, but there is much more content in general - and a specific section for video - on PermanentStyle.com as well. That's where all the good stuff is
Welcome back
Thanks. Nice to be here
1st upload in over a year wow
Yep - see comments above for all the various reasons why!
this is such a beautiful art, thank you for sharing the video. now I am just wondering if taking a bespoke suit for pressing every nmisshapen
Sorry, I think there was a typo at the end there. Are you saying should you take a suit for pressing if it is misshapen? If so then yes certainly
@@PermanentStyleLondon my bad for the typo, what I meant above is I am not sure if normal pressing (that is usually done to maintain the garment and remove creases) would misshape the garment in any way. I mean I feel these delicate details and curves would be changed by using an iron( that will likely be used in a dry cleaning service)
@@audiophilear698 Ah, I see. No, normal pressing (by a good cleaner) would not change that. Here they're using more extreme weight, and doing it repeatedly.
Mme Paulette in NYC is a well known upmarket dry cleaners.
Have you had anything bespoke pressed there? The issue normally is the pressing, not the cleaning. They stamp things flat rather than pressing by hand, which takes all the 3D shape out of bespoke tailoring
Been a long time Simon
Indeed. Back at it now
@@PermanentStyleLondon would love to see content from you more often. Cheers!
Well, I write three articles a week on PS.com, which is quite a lot! Amazing engagement and contributions from readers there as well. Video is more of a sideline, if and when a topic really needs it.
Ciao Simon, I’ve sent you on instagram a short video of the pressing of a collar, hope you can see it
Thanks Juan, yes I saw it. Was there anything specifically you wanted to point out?
Why doesn’t this all this just get undone when the suit is cleaned?
Good question. Partly it's because once the garment has been shaped by the iron, the stitching holds the shape in place. With other areas, like the trousers, the pressing needs to be redone when the suit is cleaned. But then, tailoring should only be cleaned very rarely. Unless you spill something on it, brushing and other care at home is sufficient, and better for the cloth