Upgrading from a 4 Wire Thermostat to a 5 Wire Thermostat
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- Bob installs a smart thermostat, which requires a five wire connection. Our older thermostat has only four wires. Bob shows you how to upgrade from a four wire thermostat to a five wire smart thermostat.
He's installing a Honeywell 9000 Wi-Fi Thermostat, which we purchased. Please read user guides and owners manuals before installing or using any product.
justaz.com productions and At Home Repairs are solely responsible for the content of this video.
Watched 30 other videos..including Honeywell's. Yours is the only one that was simple and accurate.
Yeah, Tim, NO FREAKING KIDDING. This guy is genius level. The Einstein of A/C instruction. Big kudos to JustAz.
Yes! This video is the only one that informs you about the h vac!!
I watched honeywell's ... they tell you to turn the power back on at the end but never tell you to turn the power off in the beginning lol.
I agree. My furnace guy said I had no C wire but hey presto there it was just waiting to be hooked up. Now I have 24v power to my thermostat.
Still relevant and valuable. Thanks so much!
Hi Sir. I just want to ask something regarding your video. Since you connected a jumper wire to G and Y (compressor) terminals... does that mean when you turn your thermostat to "HEAT MODE" the fan will not work since the jumper is only for the fan and the compressor (cool mode)? Thank you.
Question - I have an oil boiler with hydronic baseboard heat 30 years old heat only and NO C Wire, however the thermostat that I have an Emerson Sensi Model ST75 requires a C wire, can you advise how to set that up for my system?
I think I echo others in saying that I have watched at least a half a dozen videos and was still confused until I watched your video. Thanks so much for taking the time to fully explain the steps and giving an understanding of what everything is and why. Many Thanks!!
Thank you for this, especially the whiteboard diagram... I had a four wire to my thermostat, purchased a five wire and taped it to the existing, fished it down and attached the wires as you showed to the furnace. Now my nest thermostat no longer trips the AC breaker with the common wire hooked up!
Outstanding explanation - thank you so much!
Hey Dave,
My Wife said: "The expensive service call is well worth it! You're retired, it's late, just call a service tech and have them do the project for us."
I calmly replied: "You are right. But since you think that it's reasonable to spend the cash that would cost, I will just do it myself and throw that $250.00 or so into my "Mad Money/Project Fund".
My humble opinions and offered thoughts:
We are here in North Texas, where the HVAC comes in handy on occasion. Our weather is not as extreme as some other areas, but a properly functioning HVAC system and easily operated thermostat does REALLY help reduce that grinding, rattling clatter that blasts some guys from across the dining table day and night.
As a retired Electronics Engineer, I want to thank you for this reference guide video. It serves the intended lookup much better than others I checked. I encourage you to assess what makes your approach different and stick with it.
As for content, this video did not apply to my scenario. but provided me related context data that allowed me to determine the best solution for me to do a custom conversion. That's what I admire about the video... enough clear data allows handy, trained, or Pros to be reminded of context and even catch reminders about lazy/crazy installers tucking useful wires into hidden areas.
An insight to share...
One of the first things I was told about building prototypes in a design lab: "Don't use color coding for wiring." Naturally, I thought that sounds crazy, so you know that I asked "Why NOT?!"
The answer surprised me, but knowing it has saved me a ton of time, aggravation and money.
Some people discovered that the best way to make wiring as secret as most encrypted software, is to simply use a completely baffling color system. The toughest ones only change color for instance, at voltage differences, power v/s control usage or some other purpose that is known ONLY to the Designers, Makers, Engineers and Field Techs. WHY? It's obvious, when you think on it... It makes even a handy Engineer stop and usually, they call for Authorized, expensive service techs. It's true that it can help stop self-inflicted injuries, system damage, etc., but mostly it's used to prevent DIY wrenching.
So before working on equipment that I don't already know, I almost always gather diagrams, codes, colors, ratings and other pertinent info. Sometimes I look it over and see that I can fihure all of it out just from training. experience and logic, but don't be too proud to look things up. Especially because you often find a RUclips video of someone who can save you time, money and maybe a couple of fingers or toes... Then:
(1.) Check with a Voltmeter to make sure power is not miswired or crosswired by damage, to the metal control boxes, motor housings and other stuff you intend to touch. etc., creating a shock hazard. Remember, often times, if it wasn't messed up, you wouldn't be in the attic at lunch in July, or whatevet. You don't want to find your first case of deadly shorted wiring with your bare hands... it may be your last.
(2.) Turn off the related breakers, TAG or list the breakers you need off and attach tags or noted list to the opened breaker box. Then go back to the work area and VERIFY with that voltmeter that power actually is cut off by the breakers you just switched.
(3.) Starting at the functional equipment or main control board involved, TAKE A STARTING PHOTO. Check what your connection or wiring block labels are and map out the "Legend" of the wire colors actually used. Write down any other information you can see that matters. Seevif it matches the info you found, or if you need to search again!
4. As you look for damages, burned wires and fuses, also look for extra wires in the Harness, Bundle or Tangle Wad you are dealing with. Sure, there can be wiring patches, junctions between here and a thermostat or other remotely located panel, but usually you'll spot that when you get to that panel and see that the wires don't match when you're mapping out that end... see, I solve many mysteries just by early mapping. People often make mistakes with these things when originally installing, or whiletrying to fix it before they call me... and THEN call me as a Pro, friend or Brother In Law. BTW, they seldom confess or advise on any of it!
(5.) Since you have gathered diagrams, known color codes, legends that decode related markings and abbreviations etc., you are now prepared to troubleshoot, modify, customize an integration or invent the next module. Safely, quickly, profitably.
NOBODY PROFITS MORE personally, than a DIY person who gets it done right and successfully, WITHOUT paying an expensive tech that isn't required, since they are Do It RIGHT Yourself people.
Enjoy learning and making things better!
Dean
wow, that saved a lot of beer money.
This is one of the most informative youtube videos I have ever watched. I have a nest thermostat and it has been struggling with power stealing issues all summer due to a lack of a common wire. Thank you.
You are my hero!!! I’ve been so frustrated and returned the smart thermostat I had purchased. Just could not find a walk through or what I was missing. Your walk through is clear, concise, & educational! Thank you!!!
This was incredibly helpful, thank you very much!
Ditto with prev comment.
In my opinion, Dave, you are a gifted natural teacher!
As I watched, I would think, but "what if", and VOILA, you would provide an answer in your next sentence. Well done! Thanks.
Great video. thank you.
Pelin tet
I did your no green wire trick and got it up and running tonight. Thanks for the backdoor/cheap idea
This is one of the best videos I have ever watched to learn how to do something. Very clear, simple and understandable. I NEVER have commented on a video before but this one is GREAT! Bob you should be a teacher or an instructor. Probably spent a good amount of time making a script and editing but it turned out great. Thank you. Brian K
THANK YOU
this has to be the BEST explanation of how to do this conversion!!!!!!!
Very clear and very succinct.
Again THANK YOU
6:20 mark solved my issue of no Fan On when selected at thermostat. Now I know the G and Y wire is jumped at the control panel!
Very well done video. It is on my "Saved" list for future reference. Thanks.
Great video. One question...if you have to jump Y to G, what about the W terminal? In the wintertime when you switch from AC to heating, what causes the fan to run when the heating cycle is active?
I believe that the furnace controls the fan when in heat mode (based on the sensed temperature).
Wow.. I've watched 5 videos and yours was the only one with the tip about checking for unused wires tucked into the wall. This saved me not only money but from the hassle of having someone come over. Thanks!
This video is thorough and it gives people the exact steps necessary to install a 5-wire system into a 4-wire system. Excellent!
JUST Az House built 1970 I have Green red yellow blue wires no white,.. my blower runs when powered up.. I brought the 320WF02 honeywell.. Wish i could send you pics.. on HVAC i have no yellow or blue 2 reds, 2 blues and one green
You rock. I had this exact circumstance, you were a life saver for a not so handy homeowner. Worked perfectly. Thanks
Fantastic video! I think you solved my problem for me, haven't tried it yet but I think the blue wire in the attic is not connected. If that is my problem, and you have solved it, you are the MAN!!! :o
Great video. Thanks for the insights.
Thanks for the nice tutorial! I changed my oil/heat pump system to electric heating but kept the heat pump for AC. The problem is I can't find a way to make AC to start. My old thermostat had only 3 wires and 1 for the light indicator when it's switching to oil. Any idea what I did wrong? Thanks
IN MY HVAC UNIT, THERE IS NO CIRCUIT BOARD AT ALL WITH SCREWS AND WIRES (ORIGINAL UNIT FROM 1975)...ALL THERE IS, IN THE BOX, IS A LOT OF FAT AND SKINNY WIRES, ALL HELD TOGETHER WITH WIRE NUTS AND AND BLACK TAPE AND NOTHING IS MARKED !!...SHOULD I JUST FORGET THIS NEW THERMOSTAT, AND STAY WITH A 4 WIRE UNIT?
job well done!!! Technically the compressor doesn't use the 24 volt "C" but the 24 volt coil on the contactor which controls the line power used to start/stop the compressor does, and same for the blower motor, the 24v is feeding a "fan relay" which in turn controls the line voltage to blower.
As mentioned 100 times, you are a life saver....hard to imagine this was 5 years ago...you are a very good teacher! Thank You!
1 need help. I just installed this and my old thermostat had the R with a jumper to RC. I plugged the new one up with everything in the same location even the R in the R location. After everything was done and set up I turned power on everything worked but when I turned the A/C also known as Cool the heater came on. Any help on why the heater keeps coming on when I have it on cool? I have 5 wires G,W,C, R,Y. They were all connected to the same spots as my old one. I'm thinking maybe it has to do with the R? I'm electric as well please anyone help
Hi, We have an OLD gas furnace and central air. We think our thermostat is bad and needs replaced. We have been considering the Honeywell 9000 wifi thermostat. We believe our current digital thermostat is bad and needs replaced ASAP. We will be also upgrading our current heating and cooling system as soon as possible. We only have 4 wires on our thermostat and there is a jumper from the RC to RH terminal. I am uncertain if there is a common connection for the thermostat on our old furnace. If there isn't I assume we cant use the new wifi thermostat. Your input on this is appreciated!
Extremely well explained. I cannot vouch for the accuracy but you seem confident enough that I don't feel any doubt about it.
This video tells u to check your HVac!! This is soooo helpful!! No other video told me to check that.
Thanks A lot.
My circuit board on my Trane HVAC doesn't have a "C" - There is an orange wire at "O" that is tied to the Blue wire to the thermostat. The white wire wasn't used at the HVAC or the old thermostat so I am completely confused.
You are the man - love the option of relocating the G wire if necessary, didn't see that anywhere else. I'm going to do it!
Thanks for G to Y tip and explaining why it's OK to do that. Solves a lot of issues.
Great Video.. thanks !
I personally love the fine detail describing each wire, what they should do, and where to find each end :-)
Great video sir... this is by far the best vidro explaining the 4 wires to 5 wires issue.. thanks for sharing
Holy crap man. You're really good at explaining stuff! Lol. I'm not even changing my thermostat, just randomly stumbled upon your video. Watched the whole thing 😆🤙
I'm buying this unit today and following his steps pretty plain and simple instructions.
There a small red wire going from the RH to the RC. Then there's a separate RC wire from the wall. Will I need to duplicate the RH to RC bridge?
0:22 mine did exactly the same thing, would drop the temp down to 62°. Replacing the batteries fixed it.
Dude just shared the cheat codes -- publicly! Sheesh! Thank you!!!
I want to express my congratulations on a job well done and your explanation was very clear and proper dialogue.
Thanks for making this video. Very helpful.
OK but what about the fan when the heater comes on? My compressor will not be running while in heat mode on my HVAC system.
This is not helpful. He has all the extra wires. I only have four wires running through my wall.....
Thank you! Saved me from having to buy a C-Wire adapter! The wire was in the wall.
wow r u a professor? such great instructions. thanks
That was great. Not sure if I have a C wire but I'm thinking I don't. This will save me a lot of work! Thanks!
I wish I could give this video 100 likes, thank you!! 👏👏👏
Mine is wanting me to keep the fan on manually then it will turn on ac condenser im kinda stuck got it to work but now i have to manually turn it off and on help…😂😅
I echo the others in appreciating your straightforward approach and whiteboard explanation of each wire's purpose. However I have ONE IMPORTANT QUESTION: In Honeywell's G-Wire substitute video, they say it only works for propane/oil/gas furnaces. I have a heat pump HVAC that is electrical only (no gas at all in the residence). I need to know definitively: Will the G-WIre substitute work in my situation or not???
The best video for this!! Very well explained. Thank you
Thanks for the video, I’m going to put a new one with wifi and I don’t have the blue wire but I have the brown one I’m going to use that wire for the c wire, you save me to run another wire to my thermostat. 👍👍
Wish all RUclips videos were like this one. Clear, Concise, Short and answered the most common C wire/No C wire questions the novice might have. Well Done! Thanks
you can use the old 4-wire bundle to pull a new 5 wire bundle with the right colors.. make sure well taped and not mangled where they may not pass thru old wire passages.
Thank you for this informative video. It is simple and straightforward. I have all the components needed to install the thermostat, but I was too afraid to screw things up. After watching this video, I feel like I'm ready to do this. Thanks!!!
The best. Many others show doing things, but don't explain the whys and hows.
The problem with connecting a 4 wire thermostat to the hvac is that there's no C slot on a 4 wire thermostat , so connecting C TO C it's impossible . Thanks
This video saved my life, I was so lost trying to figure out what to do since the blue wire in our unit was cut several times. Your green to yellow wire trick worked perfectly.
Thank you. I wish I could give two thumbs up.
EXCELLENT VIDEO! VERY WELL EXPLAINED! SAVED ME LOTS OF HEADACHE. THANK YOU SO MUCH!
Does this model auto switch between heating and cooling depending on room temperature?
My house has central air and oil heat. Which one should the common wire go to?
Just want to say thanks! Bought a Nest and their compatibility checker showed compatibility with a Honeywell 4 wire but when I wired it up it gave me an e73 error (no power). Your video gave me confidence to bypass the nonsensical Honeywell wiring box (wires labeled as 1, 2, 3, 4... thanks Honeywell) and wire directly to the AC unit + the Common Blue Wire... it now works like a champ. It gives me great joy not having to call and HVAC Tech out. Happy Holidays!
Does this work for a electric unit with a heat pump?
Doesn’t this mean the compressor is also running when the fan is running for heat?
Man, you are a Godsend. Thank you for showing me how to do that. Honestly, if I were a woman, I'd have your Baby. Saved me lot of money. Big, big, big thank you. Really appreciated. You made it TOO EASY. Very simple. I'll just tie my Y to the C -- or whatever you said. I just scanned this and will do it in the next few days.
Can't you just connect the G to C instead of using a jumper wire?
Very helpful video, thank you!
I don't have AC, can I use Y wire substitute C wire.
Beautifull job and explanation. You did simple and great. I love your way. Thanks for your time and your help.
So this makes sense I purchase a smart thermostat but it did came with a sm white cable if I do this step it may work
Thanks for the video, this porcess was far simpler than I had expected and you definitely saved me from calling an HVAC tech unnecessarily
How about if I press for 3 seconds and nothing happens?
Very good instruction and video. Thank you
Great video! Exactly what we needed. The Honeywell site was useless. Thank you!
Extremely useless!
Perfect Video. Explained everything perfect. My exact thermostat set up. Thanks so much.
This video was spot on and to the point. After an extensive internet search and watching several other videos, yours is the only one that explained the problem and provided a solution. THANK YOU! You earned a new subscriber!
Dude, saved me hundreds of $$$. Much respect.
If you do the ju.p from the g to the y does that mean the fan will not come on with the heat since the y is the ac?
Probably the best video on the subject. Thank you.
Best video ever especially if you are instalking Amazon thermostat which has 0 instructions
Great video, I've watched 10-15 and this explained it the best. I do have a question though. What do you do if you don't have a compressor? I don't have AC but have gas heat. Would I hook the C wire up then jumper the fan to the Heat terminal?
Thank you a lot sir I pay for all beers u want to drink 👍👍👍
Great video..I am running into same problem..no 'C' wire n my existing thermostat. But when I checked the HVAC unit, it does have Red wire plugged in to 'C'!!!
Great video my friend. I leaned a lot from you in this video, many others show only the green wire being switched, but have not seen anyone solving the problem of the FAN with a jump wire. I am trying to connect my nest thermostat and having the issues you describe.
Do you have any video for t dual power system ? because my AC is in the attic, and by heat is baseboard hot water, my old thermostat controls the 2, but now have trouble in getting it to work. ( Should I connect the RC and RH wires ? ) would it create a circuit breaker to go off ? seems like a lot of people can use help like you.
I wish you were her in Connecticut, you could be of help.
Once again Thank you
Agreed watched several videos just to get more confused. Thank you so much I just have one question before I start programing it. I have a Honeywell T6 Pro and my issue was to bridge R and RC wires which I did sliding the built in switch which i did. But I did not see you doing on yours. Is that because your particular model wont need or i will have a problem later? Thank you in advance best video, concise and informative
Great video. Perfectly explained & exhibited. My wiring is the same as the diagram. Though......I did exactly what you did with the G (green) wire in to C at the furnace board and also at the thermostat. I also jumped a wire for Y to G at the furnace. I got power to the Honeywell but it would not turn on the furnace. Not sure if having it on A/C made a difference or what considering my thermostat runs both heat & central air. I didn't try the heat setting. Just the A/C Any idea's anyone?
Simple, straightforward explanation. Thanks! Saved me $280 for installing 2 thermostats.
Do you leave the green wire off at furnace and put jumper wire in
Question. In connecting Y to G with a jumper, how does this work in the winter when we don't use the compressor? Thanks
I have the same question, everyone else here seems oblivious to the question. Did you ever find an answer?
@@TheDonquijote56 Not yet.
@@gselby8107 Hi Glen, I actually followed the instructions here of using the G-wire to run from C to C, and jumping from Y to G on the control board in the attic heating/cooling system. Somehow although the Y-terminal is for the compressor, which does not run when in heat mode, the fan does get switched on in heat mode. It has been working like a charm for several days. I checked that it also turns on when in cool mode when the compressor is also switched on. The only disadvantage of this trick is that you cannot manually turn-on the fan, but I never had the need to do that. I hope this helps.
@@TheDonquijote56 Thanks for the info.
My old system has a wire that jump E spot with W2 spot but there is no wire come directly in E spot. In the new thermostat i have E and w2 in the same spot. How to proceed with this jump wire? What to do?
Excellent video, thanks.
Thanks for the video. Planning on installing a new smart, wifi thermostat and I may not have an additional wire for the common. Your information about using a jumper at the unit may be just what I need.
So if I understand correctly, when the AC compressor wire (yellow) is sending voltage, the green wire will get voltage turning on the fan because of the jumper wire. Does the heat need to use the same fan (green wire) when the furnace is on?
Fantastic video. Love the hack to make a 4-wire system run a 5-wire system. Thank you.
Thank you very much for a simple explanation. No bull shit, just right to the point.
Had a 4 wire thermostat that worked fine but wanted to relocate a new smart thermostat to a more logical location. The original stat was right in the middle of a main wall in the living room and I wanted to use that wall for a TV or some artwork. Relocated a new stat in the hall about 7 feet away from the original.
Had to get in the crawlspace to run a new 5 wire cable. Came up thru the floor in a hall closet and routed the cable behind the closet door frame trim.
Long story short. Took me several days of planning and an entire day to run the wire.
Your vid will help me wire the new unit correctly.
Thanks.
audio is horrible! Too loud then too soft, etc....
Explaining in understanding 5stars gracias